THE RIGHT BIKE

FOR YOU

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE

TO BUYING THE
RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
 WHAT TYPE OF CYCLIST ARE YOU?

IN ORDER TO > SOCIAL

DETERMINE THE YOU LIKE A LEISURELY PEDAL WITH FAMILY AND/
IDEAL BIKE FOR OR FRIENDS ONCE IN A WHILE.
YOU, FIND YOUR
RIDER PROFILE > RECREATIONAL
USING THESE YOU LIKE TO RIDE ON WEEKENDS WHEN THE WEATHER
CATEGORIES: IS PLEASANT. SPEED IS NOT IMPORTANT TO YOU.

> SPORTY
YOU LIKE TO DO A RACE ONCE IN A WHILE AND JUST
WANT TO FINISH WITH A SMILE; OR YOU RIDE TO
MANAGE YOUR WEIGHT AND STAY REASONABLY FIT.

> SERIOUS
YOU TRAIN TO DO AS WELL AS POSSIBLE IN A FEW
RACES A YEAR; OR YOU RIDE AT LEAST THREE TIMES
A WEEK ON AVERAGE. MOUNTAIN
ROAD
> COMPETITIVE
BEING FIT AND FAST AND ABLE TO RACE WITH
CONFIDENCE IS IMPORTANT TO YOU.

> FANATICAL
YOU RIDE AT ANY CHANCE YOU GET AND MAKE LIFE
DECISIONS BASED AROUND YOUR CYCLING SCHEDULE.

WHAT’S YOUR COLOUR?

TO MAKE THIS GUIDE EASIER TO NAVIGATE,
WE HAVE DIVIDED CERTAIN ELEMENTS INTO COLOURS:

GREEN – BEGINNER/ENTRY-LEVEL

BLUE – INTERMEDIATE/MID-RANGE

BLACK – ADVANCED/TOP-END

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

 >MOUNTAIN
MOUNTAIN BIKE
TYPES OF BIKES CITY BIKE
GEOMETRY
ROAD BIKE

relaxed geometry for an upright riding position GEOMETRY

BIKE

ENTRY-LEVEL HARDTAIL
slightly relaxed for a more upright
riding position
A DUAL
SUSPENSION
BIKE IS BEST
FRAME MATERIAL steel or aluminium
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium IF YOU ARE:
IDEAL FOR SOCIAL RIDER
IDEAL FOR SOCIAL, RECREATIONAL RIDER > Over 40 years old
ENTRY-LEVEL ROAD BIKE (male)
PERFORMANCE HARDTAIL
GEOMETRY slightly relaxed for a comfortable > Over 80kg
riding position GEOMETRY aggressive for a more controlled
forward-weighted position (male)
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium
FRAME MATERIAL steel, aluminium, scandium, > Female
IDEAL FOR RECREATION, SPORTY RIDER carbon fibre, titanium
(any age and weight)
IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
COMFORT ROAD BIKE that’s a SERIOUS,
GEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and comfort
DUAL-SUSPENSION MARATHON COMPETITIVE or
combination
GEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and FANATICAL rider
FRAME MATERIAL steel, aluminium, enhanced carbon fibre
comfort combination > Keen on marathons,
IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre, titanium stage races, trail
SUSPENSION 80-110mm riding or Enduro
PERFORMANCE ROAD BIKE TRAVEL
GEOMETRY aggressive for a low, powerful riding position races
IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre or titanium
IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER DUAL-SUSPENSION TRAIL A HARDTAIL
GEOMETRY BIKE IS BEST
WOMAN-SPECIFIC comfort IF YOU:
GEOMETRY shorter top tube to accommodate shorter torso FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre > Are on a limited
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium or carbon fibre SUSPENSION 120-140mm
TRAVEL budget
IDEAL FOR FEMALE, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER
IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER > Do only short rides
TRIATHLON/TIME TRIAL (under 2 hours)
GEOMETRY aggressive for a forward seated, DUAL-SUSPENSION GRAVITY > Are keen on
aerodynamic position GEOMETRY cross-country racing
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium or carbon fibre FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre > Are fixated on
IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER SUSPENSION 150-180mm light weight
TRAVEL
IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
WOMEN-SPECIFIC
GEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and
comfort combination
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre
SUSPENSION 80-140mm
TRAVEL
IDEAL FOR FEMALE, SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

 >ROAD
MOUNTAIN BIKE
FRAME FRAME MATERIAL AND GEOMETRY

THE FRAME IS THE STRUCTURE

AROUND WHICH YOUR BIKE
IS BUILT AND THEREFORE THE
FRAME GEOMETRY
The geometry of the frame refers to
BIKE

MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN the angles of the tubing, mostly the 3
headtube and seattube, which affect
MAKING A BUYING DECISION.
the rider’s position on the bike. There
MOST BIKE BRANDS WILL OFFER
THE SAME FRAME FOR DIFFERENT are three main types of geometry: 2
MODELS WITHIN THAT BRAND’S RELAXED GEOMETRY - puts the 5
RANGE, WITH PRICE-POINTS rider in rearward-weighted, upright
CHANGING BASED ON THE PARTS 4
position. This is best for riders that
AND ACCESSORIES ON EACH 1
prioritise comfort over performance. 7
FRAME. On dual suspension mountain bikes,
however, the gravity-centric bikes
FRAME MATERIAL
have a more relaxed geometry to
Bicycle frames are made with offer better control when descending.
different materials. Here’s a summary
NEUTRAL GEOMETRY - puts the
of the four most popular and their 6
rider in a central-weighted, partially-
characteristics:
crouched position. This is the most 8
STEEL: rather heavy and not too common geometry, with small
responsive – used more on utility variations between the different
bikes than performance bikes brands. It ensures a position that
delivers a combination of comfort and
ALUMINIUM: light and strong and
control.
offers very a responsive, but slightly 1 - Fork 5 - Downtube
hard ride AGGRESSIVE GEOMETRY - puts the 2 - Headtube 6 - Bottom Brackett
rider in a forward-weighted, crouched 3 - Toptube 7 - Seatstays
CARBON FIBRE: very light and
position. This is best for riders that
strong, but very rigid, offering a fast, 4 - Seattube 8 - Chainstays
prioritise performance over comfort.
but hard ride
It’s largely used on bikes
TITANTIUM: very light and strong, designed for racing. SIZING CHART - MEN SIZING CHART - WOMEN
but not super-rigid, offering a slightly
plush, fast ride Rider height Suggested frame size Rider height Suggested frame size
in cm in cm
148 - 152 47 - 48 XXS 147 - 155 44 - 45 - 46 XXS
152 - 160 49 - 50 XS 155 - 160 47 - 48 - 49 XS
160 - 168 51 - 52 - 53 S 160 - 165 50 - 51 - 52 S
SEAT TUBE HEAD TUBE 168 - 175 54 - 55 M 165 - 172 53 - 54 - 55 M
ANGLE ANGLE
175 - 183 56 - 57 - 58 L 172 - 180 56 - 57 L
183 - 191 58 - 59 - 60 XL 183 - 191 58 - 59 - 60 XL
191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL 191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

FRAME

GROUPSET
MOUNTAIN BIKE GROUPSET

THE GROUPSET IS THE The groupset is one of the most important

COLLECTION OF THE features of your bike, as it is the sum of the
3 WORKING PARTS ON THE working parts and directly contributes to
2 BIKE AND GENERALLY performance and enjoyment. The groupset
4 INCLUDES: models below are arranged within brands,
starting with the cheapest and moving down
10 THE DRIVETRAIN towards the best quality/most expensive.
> CHAINRINGS
9 5 1 > CRANKS ROAD BIKES
7 > CHAIN
> CASSETTE

THE GEARS
6
> REAR DERAILLEUR
> FRONT DERAILLEUR - Ultegra 10-speed - Record 11-speed
8 - Ultegra Di2 10-speed - Super Record
> REAR SHIFTERS
> FRONT SHIFTERS electronic 11-speed
- Dura-Ace 11-speed - Athena EPS 11-speed
> CABLES
- Dura-Ace Di2 electronic
All levels of groupset 11-speed electronic - Record EPS 11-speed
perform the same function, electronic
SIZING CHART - MEN but the lower-end models
- Super Record EPS
11-speed electronic
Rider height Suggested frame size will have less gears and will
1 - Suspension fork
2 - Headtube in cm be heavier. As you move MOUNTAIN BIKES
148 - 158 13 - 14 XS higher up the groupset
3 - Toptube - Black Red 11-speed
158 - 168 15 - 16 S models, the number of gears
4 - Seattube - Red 10-speed
increases, and/or the weight
5 - Downtube 168 - 178 17 - 18 M - Red 22 11-speed
becomes lighter and the
6 - Bottom Brackett 178 - 185 19 - 20 L
durability is better.
7 - Seatstays 185 - 193 21 - 22 XL - X9 10-speed
193 - 198 23 - 24 XXL - X0 10/11-speed
8 - Chainstays - XX1 11-speed
9 - Rear shock 191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL
10 - Suspension pivot

SIZING CHART - WOMEN

Rider height Suggested frame size
in cm
148 - 158 13 - 14 XS
158 - 168 15 - 16 S
168 - 178 17 - 18 M
178 - 185 19+ L - Deore XT 9/10-speed
- Saint 9-speed
- XTR 10-speed

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

WHEELS AFTER THE FRAME,
THE WHEELS ARE THE
MOST IMPORTANT
WHEELS
WHAT IS THE
IDEAL WHEEL
COMPONENT OF YOUR SIZE FOR YOU ?
BICYCLE. THE WHEELS

26
MOUNTAIN BIKES FOR
SPECCED ON NEW
ADULTS COME IN THREE
BIKES ARE MATCHED TO
DIFFERENT WHEEL SIZES.
THE PRICE CATEGORY.
IN ORDER TO DETERMINE
Entry-level bikes will
THE MOST APPROPRIATE
come with heavier
WHEEL SIZE FOR YOU,
wheels, while more
HERE’S A GUIDE:
expensive bikes will come
with lighter wheels.

The lighter your wheels, A 29ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:

the more efficient they Are over 1.80m tall (male)
are, markedly improving Participate in

27.5
your bike’s overall marathons/stage races
performance. Are concerned about
your time in races
Once you’ve bought
a bike that fits your Are a strong rider
(male and female)
budget, start saving to
treat yourself to a new
wheelset – it’s the best A 27.5ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:
upgrade you can make on Are female
your bike.
1 Are a male under 165cm in height
Are keen on cross-country racing
Are keen on technical trail riding
2 Are keen on enduro racing

A 26ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:

29
Are a teenager
3 Are shorter than 155cm in height
Are unsure if mountain biking
1 - Rim will be ‘your thing’
2 - Spokes Are on a really tight budget
3 - Hub 4
4 - Tyre
5 - Quick-release
5

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME


TYRES ROAD BIKE TYRES AREN'T AS
COMPLEX AS MOUNTAIN BIKE
TYRES, BUT THERE ARE SOME
IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:
WIDTH: They come in various
widths, ranging from 18-25mm.
There are wider tyres, but they're
mostly used on tandems and touring
less rolling resistance.
PUNCTURE PROTECTION: Tyres
reinforced to be more puncture
resistant are heavier, but more more
reliable.
FOLDING: Folding tyres don't have
a wire bead so can collapse for easy
portability. They're also about 100g
lighter than a standard wire-bead
tyre – and more expensive.
CLINCHER: Most tyres are 'clincher
style', which requires an inner tube
and which hooks into the rim.
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
ROAD BIKE
TUBULAR: A sealed tyre-tube
combination that is glued to a
special rim. These are very light
and expensive and used mostly by
professional racers.
TREAD: Most tyres are slick or have
a small grooved tread. The grooves
help minimise the amount of water
sprayed up by the tyres in wet
conditions.
COMPOUND: The composition
of the tread that determines road
surface grip. Softer compounds
than harder compounds. Some tyre
models use a combination of the
two.
TUBES: Until tubeless road tyres
become the norm (it's in progress),
tubes will be essential spares on
every ride. Never run low on spare
tube stock...
MOST ROAD TYRES
ARE SLICK WITH A THIN
GROOVE PATTERN
>MOUNTAIN
MOUNTAIN BIKE
BIKE
TUBED AND TUBELESS: Most bikes come with
tubed tyres, but can be converted to tubeless.
Tubeless tyres have no tube but the tyre and
and grip better in damp conditions. A wider
tyre will provide a greater surface area for
traction in firm and dry conditions and will be
rim are one sealed unit that contains a liquid more comfortable due to the greater air volume.
sealant that seals small punctures while you are It’s best to go for a slightly wider front tyre for
riding. Tubeless tyres cannot pinch-flat. optimal traction in corners.
You minimise puncture risk significantly with
TREAD PATTERN: An aggressive tread pattern
tubeless.
will have bigger knobs and a square-edged
DIAMETER: This is the same measure as wheel profile to provide excellent traction – ideal for
size – the distance across the tyre. The current a front tyre. A moderate tread pattern will have
range of tyres across all popular mountain bike smaller, closer spaced knobs with a rounder
sizes is: profile to provide lower rolling resistance – ideal
Kiddies/Youth – 12-inch, for a back tyre.
16-inch, 20-inch, 24-inch;
SIDEWALL: Tyres with reinforced (thicker)
Adult: 26-inch, 27.5-inch, 29-inch.
WIDTH: This is the broadness of the tyre. A resistance to sidewall cuts.
narrower tyre will weigh less, shed mud well
THE BEST TYRE FOR YOU?
CONDITIONS
Dry, hard surfaces – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobs
Damp, soft surfaces – narrower tyres with wider spaced knobs
Rocky terrain – wider tyres with reinforced sidewalls and moderately–widely spaced knobs
TYPE OF RIDING
Dirt roads and basic trails – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobs
Intermediate trails and marathon races – wider front tyre with aggressive knob pattern;
rounded profile faster-rolling rear tyre. Both should have reinforced sidewalls.
Advanced trails and serious gravity riding or racing –
very wide tyres with aggressive knob pattern and reinforced sidewalls
ROUND PROFILE SQUARE EDGED
MODERATE AGGRESSIVE
TREAD PATTERN TREAD PATTERN
BRAKES

GEARS
BRAKES GEARS

THERE ARE TWO MAIN BRAKE TYPES – MECHANICAL (COMMONLY
REFERRED TO AS SIDE-PULL BRAKES OR V-BRAKES) AND HYDRAULIC
BRAKES, FOUND ON MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES.
HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES:
> are very powerful and reliable
in all conditions
> operate with hydraulic fluid
movement in a sealed system
> are more expensive than
mechanical brakes
> are high-precision with very
limited adjustability
MECHANICAL BRAKES:
> moderately powerful and less
reliable in wet conditions
> operate with a mechanical
cable system
> are less expensive to buy and
maintain than hydraulic disc
brakes
> Are easy to adjust
MECHANICAL
CARE AND REPLACEMENT
Brake pads on both braking systems
wear down with use and should be
replaced when braking performance
becomes poor.
The duration of the pads’ life will
depend on how often the bike is
ridden, how hard the rider is on
braking and the kind of conditions
in which the bike is ridden – wet and
muddy conditions can accelerate
brake pad wear significantly.
Expect to replace brake pads
regularly if you ride often. See it
more as an investment in your safety
than an extra cost.
HYDRAULIC DISC
MOST ADULT BICYCLES THESE DAYS COME WITH GEARS. GEARS ARE
EVEN PREVALENT ON MANY KIDS’ BIKES. THE GREAT THING ABOUT
GEARS IS THAT THEY ALLOW YOU TO PEDAL UP AND DOWN JUST
ABOUT ANY GRADIENT ON ANY SURFACE. THERE ARE VARIOUS GEAR
OPTIONS ON NEW BIKES, WHICH CAN BE CONFUSING.
HERE’S A BASIC EXPLANATION:
1. FRONT DERAILLEUR:
This shifts the
chain between
the chainrings.
2. REAR DERAILLEUR:
This shifts the
chain across the
various sprockets
3. CASSETTE: This is HOW MANY GEARS
the group of SHOULD YOU HAVE?
THERE’S NOT REALLY
sprockets fixed to
A RIGHT OR WRONG
the hub on the back
ANSWER TO THIS
wheel. There are between eight So 3 chainrings x 10 sprockets =
QUESTION AND
and 11 on modern bicycles. 30 gears.
IT CAN VARY FOR
4. CRANKSET: The levers that link In recent years, there’s been a shift
ROAD CYCLING AND
your pedals to your chainrings towards simplification by parts MOUNTAIN BIKING.
manufacturers, which has led to HOWEVER,
5. CHAINRINGS: These are the big
the speccing of two chainrings or HERE’S A GENERAL
cogs attached to the cranks/
even one chainring. By increasing GUIDE:
pedals. There are between one
the number and tooth-count of the
and three on modern bicycles > 3 CHAINRINGS
rear sprockets, they’ve managed to
6. CHAIN: The ‘thread’ that create a satisfactory range of gear (24-30 GEARS):
connects the chainrings and SOCIAL,
ratios with less hardware.
the cassette RECREATIONAL,
SHIFTERS: Gear shifters are
SPORTY RIDER
7. PEDAL: This is where the pedal situated on your handlebars so that > 2 CHAINRINGS
goes to give you a platform you can shift without compromising (18-22 GEARS):
on which to power the entire control. They come in two SPORTY, SERIOUS,
drivetrain. main styles – ‘rapid-fire’ levers COMPETITIVE,
GEAR OPTIONS and ‘twistshift’. Most gears are FANATICAL RIDER
operated mechanically via cables, > 1 CHAINRING
To determine the total number
but some top-end road cycling (10-11 GEARS):
of gears on a bike, you multiply
systems have electronic shifting SERIOUS,
the number of chainrings by the COMPETITIVE,
number of sprockets. options.
FANATICAL RIDER

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

SUSPENSION MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES COME
WITH A SUSPENSION FORK, WHICH
ADDS COMFORT AND CONTROL
SUSPENSION FORK

out on smooth roads or up long,

predictable climbs to eliminate
‘bobbing’ and improve efficiency.
REAR SHOCK

A rear shock improves overall ride

1
TO YOUR RIDE.
COMPRESSION
comfort and control, but is more
costly. There are different makes and 2 4
HERE ARE THE MAIN TERMS models of rear shock incorporated

7
This is the speed at which the fork
RELATING TO SUSPENSION AND into various suspension frame
uses its travel/absorbs impact when
WHAT THEY MEAN: designs, but
you hit an obstacle. Too slow and the
most operate
ride will be harsh. Too fast and the
TRAVEL on an air-based
fork will 'bottom out' easily, making
system and
> SHORT-TRAVEL FORK: for a harsh ride.
can be set
80-110mm. Designed for
smooth–moderately rough
REBOUND harder, softer
8
terrain. Found on entry-level This is the speed at which fork
or completely
locked out.
3
bikes and bikes for marathon bounces back to its original position
As with a
and cross-country racing. after compressing on a bump. This
suspension
> MEDIUM-TRAVEL FORK: can be adjusted on mid-range and
fork, you
120-140mm. Designed for top-end forks.
can set sag,
moderate-rough terrain and
You would adjust the rebound to compression
medium-long descents. Found
improve the overall smoothness and rebound
on bikes that offer slightly
of the ride. Too fast and the ride speeds
relaxed geometry, ideal for
becomes bouncy and unstable; according
all-day riding and aggressive
too slow and the ride becomes harsh to your body
trail riding.
and hard on the body. weight and/or
> LONG-TRAVEL FORK:
riding style.
150-170mm. Designed for rough SAG
terrain and steep or long
descents. Found on bikes with
This is how much of the fork travel
is used when you sit on the bike
9
relaxed geometry designed for 1 - Steerer tube
without pedalling (determined by
descending at speed 2 - Crown
your body weight). This needs to be
3 - Stanchion Brace
LOCKOUT between 20-30% of the total travel
4 - Air pressure inlet
and can be adjusted by adding or
Most forks have a lockout option 5 - Dropout
removing air pressure. You need a
with a lockout switch on the fork.
More expensive models have a
shock pump to add or remove air 6 - Rebound adjuster
7 - Travel adjuster/lockout and
5
pressure.
remote lockout lever, which allows Compression adjuster
6
10
you to operate the fork setting You would adjust sag when you buy 8 - Stanchion
without removing your hand from the the bike (initial set-up) and then 9 - Lower
handlebar. around once a month to ensure the
10 - Through-axle
air pressure remains consistent and
You would lock the suspension
appropriate for you.

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

CONTACT POINTS IF YOU’RE NEW TO CYCLING,
YOU’RE GOING TO ENDURE A
SHORT ‘BREAKING-IN’ PERIOD
BACKSIDE - SADDLE

> SHAPE – Different saddle

shapes (even slightly different)
can make a difference to riding
WIDER, HIGHER DENSITY
SADDLE
NARROWER, LOWER-DENSITY
SADDLE
WOMEN-SPECIFIC
SADDLE

TO GET USED TO SITTING ON comfort due to the different

A SADDLE AND PEDALLING. pressure points it develops.
IF, AFTER A WHILE (5-6 RIDES
> DENSITY – a softer saddle isn’t
OR 10-14 DAYS), YOU ARE
necessarily more comfortable
STILL EXPERIENCING SADDLE
than a hard one. In fact, most
DISCOMFORT, ASSUMING YOU
often a higher-density saddle
HAVE THE CORRECT CYCLING
is better because it creates
SHORTS, THEN YOU NEED TO
less friction than a lower- SAME SADDLE MODEL, DIFFERENT WIDTHS
CONSIDER A DIFFERENT SADDLE.
density saddle.
Saddles are quite personal
CHOOSING THE RIGHT SADDLE:
because we all have different
> We have an in-store saddle
shaped bodies and sit slightly
fitting system that can assess
differently when pedalling. It’s
which is the best type of saddle
crucial to get the right saddle
for you. This is free, non-
for you otherwise you won’t look
invasive and takes only a few
forward to riding your bike like you
minutes and could make
should.
the world of difference to your
The saddle the bike is sold with comfort.
isn’t necessarily incorrect, but it
> Once you find a saddle that
may just not be the correct saddle
suits you, it is likely to last
for you.
you for a few years, assuming it
THE KEY POINTS ABOUT SADDLE doesn’t get damaged. If you ride
COMFORT: both road and mountain bikes,
it’s worth buying the same
> GENDER – the female body is
saddle for both bikes.
obviously different to the male EXTREME CURVATURE SHALLOW CURVATURE
body and therefore requires a > To determine a position of (TOO NARROW) (OPTIMAL WIDTH)
saddle that’s designed for optimal comfort and control,
female comfort. you should get a professional
bike set-up done. We offer this
> WIDTH – generally, women and
in-store at an additional cost. It
large men are more comfortable
requires an appointment and will
on a wider, less-curved saddle
take 45-60 minutes. It’s time
because of a wider pelvic
and money that you are
structure than medium and
investing in your health, fitness
small men.
and long-term enjoyment of
cycling.

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

 >MOUNTAIN
MOUNTAIN BIKE
CONTACT POINTS HANDS - HANDLE BARS/STEM

WHEN RIDING YOUR BIKE, YOUR HANDS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR

SUPPORTING YOUR UPPER BODY, CONTROLLING THE STEERING
AND OPERATING YOUR GEARS AND BRAKES. THEY’RE A KEY
BIKE

WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM ONE

CONTACT POINT WITH YOUR BIKE AND THEREFORE NEED TO BE
CAREFULLY CONSIDERED IN TERMS OF COMFORT.
WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM
THE CENTRE OF THE BAR ON THE
RIGHT TO THE CENTRE OF THE BAR
ON THE LEFT.
> A wider handlebar gives you
more steering leverage and
opens up your chest more for
more efficient breathing.
> A narrower handlebar can
reduce muscular tightness and
fatigue in your back, neck and
shoulder muscles.
> As a starting guide, your
handlebar width should match
your shoulder width. Handlebars
are measured in centimetres
between 36 and 46.
REACH: THE WIDTH OF YOUR
HANDLEBAR FROM THE ‘TOP’ TO
THE END OF THE ‘DROPS’ AS SEEN
FROM THE SIDE.
> If the reach is too long, it can pull
you forward on your saddle
ROAD BIKE
which can be uncomfortable, as
it forces more of your weight
onto your arms instead of
distributing your weight between
your arms and your backside.
DROP: THE DEPTH OF THE BAR
CURVE.
> A drop that’s too deep will rotate
your hips too far forward,
causing pressure on your
pirenium and strain on your
hamstrings.
> A too-deep drop also forces
you to lift your head higher to
look ahead,
creating
neck
muscle
stress.
END TO THE OTHER END.
> A wider handlebar gives you
more leverage and control,
but too wide can cause wrist and
hand discomfort.
> A too-narrow bar can
compromise bike control and
cause unnecessary arm muscle
strain, especially in the triceps.
> The general starting width
should be 10-15cm wider than
your shoulders. Wider bars can
usually be trimmed to suit you.
RISE: THE VERTICAL DISTANCE OF THE
CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE
BAR TO THE ENDS.
> A flat or straight handlebar with
no rise gives you more weighting over
your front wheel, which improves
cornering and climbing control.
Ideal for those racing marathons,
stage races and cross-country races.
> A riser – or semi-riser –
handlebar offers a more
comfortable, upright positions,
ideal for riders that aren’t
concerned about racing, or who
do a lot of gravity-related riding.
Flat or straight bar
BACK-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE
HORIZONTAL CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE
OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.
> This angle can vary for different shape
handlebars allowing a rider to find the
most comfortable wrist/hand position.
UP-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE VERTICAL
CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO
THE ENDS.
> This angle can vary for different shape
handlebars allowing a rider to find the
most comfortable wrist/hand position.
Top view
Back-sweep
Front view
Rise
STEM: THIS IS THE STRAIGHT TUBE THAT
CONNECTS YOUR HANDLEBAR TO YOUR
FRAME. STEMS COME IN A VARIETY OF
LENGTHS AND ANGLES, WHICH ALLOWS
YOU TO FINE-TUNE YOUR IDEAL
HANDLEBAR SET-UP.

Semi-riser bar

Riser bar

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

CONTACT POINTS YOUR PEDALS ARE OBVIOUSLY
THE PLATFORMS THAT ALLOW
YOU TO PROPEL THE BIKE
FEET - PEDALS

FLAT
WHY GO CLIPLESS?

THIS IS THE MOST POPULAR AND EFFICIENT

PEDAL TYPE AS IT OFFERS THESE BENEFITS:
injury or discomfort through poor

most clipless pedals allows for

FORWARD WHEN PEDALLING;
THEY’RE ALSO ‘PEGS’ THAT
SUPPORT YOUR BODYWEIGHT,
ALLOWING YOU TO CONTROL
YOUR CENTRE OF GRAVITY AND
BODY POSITION.
FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE TOE CLIP
TYPES
There are four main pedal types:
> FLAT: the most basic pedal.
Ideal for: SOCIAL OR
RECREATIONAL RIDERS
> FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE
TOE CLIP:
allows you to secure your feet to
your pedals for improved
.
Ideal for: SPORTY RIDERS
> SAFETY – being anchored to your pedals
biomechanical nuance forgiveness and
allows you to be more stable and in control
reduced injury risk
when descending and cornering
> DURABILITY - entry- and mid-range
> EFFICIENCY – you can push down
clipless pedals are robust and can last for
AND PULL UP when pedalling, using more
years, requiring minimal maintenance. You
of each pedal stroke for propulsion
will need to buy new cleats from time to
> SIMPLICITY – Once you’ve mastered the time as these wear with use.
cleating in-and-out process, there’s no
thought required on foot placement on Note: There is a steep, but short learning curve
associated with clipless and flat with adjustable toe
your pedals
clip pedals. The reward is that the transformation
> INJURY PREVENTION – Pedalling is a from flat or flat-platform pedals is significant for
repetitive action that can lead to chronic anyone that enjoys cycling regularly.
FLAT-PLATFORM

> FLAT-PLATFORM: a more

advanced style of flat pedal,
usually wider and made from
more durable, lighter material. CLIPLESS - ROAD
Ideal for: SPORTY YOUTH
RIDERS; SERIOUS GRAVITY
RIDERS

> CLIPLESS:
pedal system that mates your
pedal to your cycling shoe.
This requires buying a cycling-
CLIPLESS - MOUNTAIN BIKE
specific shoe to which you can
fit the cleat.
Ideal for: SPORTY,
SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE,
FANATICAL RIDERS

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

 ONCE YOU’VE MADE YOUR BIKE CHOICE, CONSIDER
THE FOLLOWING ASSOCIATED SERVICES THAT WILL
ENSURE YOU GET MAXIMUM RETURN ON YOUR
NEW INVESTMENT:

TOYOTA SUPERCYCLING CLUB PWC BIKE PARK

South Africa’s largest cycling club that offers A international-standard trail park
support for new and experienced cyclists with graded for Beginner, Intermediate and
organised, safe training rides and loads of Advanced mountain bikers and safe for
member benefits. women and children.

FITTRACK CYCLE LAB WORKSHOP

The personalised online coaching system We’ve taken South African bike
that can take you to your goals based servicing and maintenance to a new
around your lifestyle and time-constrained level, both in terms of quality and
schedule. service.

CYCLE LAB ONLINE

When convenience is critical, FOR MORE INFORMATION ON
our online store offers the widest ALL OF OUR SERVICES,
range of bikes, spares and VISIT WWW.CYCLELAB.COM
accessories.

Tel: 011 707 4700 > email: retailmanager@cyclelab.com

Address: GPS co-ordinates: