SPEECH AND THEATER ARTS

ENGLISH ED 102

Theatrical Make-up

NAMES
Baldo, April Ann F.
Boteng, Peter
Lucas
Guinaat, Jhadjee
Lester

TUESDAY/FRIDAY

9:30am-11:30am
 History of Theater Make-up

The earliest known use of theatrical makeup was by the Greek actor Thespis,
who, to stand out from the Greek chorus, painted a toxic covering of white lead and
mercuric sulphide to create a white and red face paint. It is debated whether these
toxic substances continued to be used in Greek drama because linen masks
representing comedy and tragedy (based on the muses Thalia and Melpomene), were
used to convey expression. Although contemporary performance uses theatrical
makeup to convey character, and facial expression and tone to convey emotion,
these Greek masks continue to exist an instantly recognizable symbol for drama.

Use of Theatre Makeup Grows and Evolves

The use of makeup for theatre appears to have become more common in the
1500s and 1600s. In the 1500s, performers in medieval religious cycle dramas utilized
face paint to depict certain characters. Performers in Elizabethan England used chalk
and soot on their faces to depict characters and show expression. False makeup
beards also appeared on the performers. Also, during this time period, the Japanese
Kabuki theatre emerged, and the performers wore elaborate face makeup.

 Pigments and Powders

The crude face paint used in these early decades evolved to more sophisticated
methods with the emergence of the industrial age. With artificial lighting available for
productions, it became necessary that performers have a more polished look. In
addition to the previously mentioned compounds, before the mid 1800's, substances
used for makeup included white powder or chalk, burnt cork and paper, and pigment
powders.

 Greasepaint

Greasepaint was a unique invention that was a vast improvement for both stage
and film. Developed by a German actor, the paint was achieved by combining lard
with pigments. The result was a smoother and more versatile application. Ready-made
grease paint was later produced for retail sales. More items, such as lipsticks, liquid
liners, waxes, and makeup sticks were introduced as the 1900s approached.

 Pancake Makeup

Another big innovation in stage makeup emerged in 1914 when the icon Max
Factor developed pancake makeup, which was a water-based makeup that provides
thick, matte coverage. This innovation has carried on through today, although formulas
have continued to evolve.

Modern Theatre Makeup

Modern theatrical makeup has come a long way from the dubious chemicals
and rough techniques of its early usage. A true art form, modern dramatic makeup
looks range from makeup that is realistic looking, albeit much heavier than standard
cosmetic application, to highly unusual characterization, animal, period, special
effects, and Avant Garde makeup looks. The ingredients in today's stage cosmetics are
also safe for the skin rather than containing the toxic or questionable compounds.

Stage Makeup

Stage makeup is the key component to a successful performance. Theatre is the

earliest form of entertainment, dating back to the Greeks in B.C. Even with strong
competition from new technology and similar styles of amusement, such as television
and film, theatre has remained popular. As the times have changed, so have the stage
and the costumes. The experience of a live audience and live performers is what
creates the exciting element that drives us to experience this pleasure. The stage
makeup is a major piece of the puzzle in ensuring the unique experience theatre
provides.

Stage Makeup Artist

The artist responsible for stage makeup is a special type of individual. The work is
repetitive, but also exciting at the same time. The theatre makeup artist must possess a
strong knowledge of both wigs and facial hair, in addition to makeup application skills.
Therefore, previous training in theatre, makeup and hairdressing is crucial for success in
stage makeup.

Smaller theatre organizations expect the actors to create their own makeup
looks. Stage makeup artists are hired for special effects, hairdressing and advice.
Makeup artists will design the looks and teach it to the actors to apply themselves. This is
particularly useful for long running productions and traveling shows.

A stage makeup artist works for the overall production designer, as a piece of
the complete look and costume for the performance. These jobs are an integral part of
the complete theatre team, not independent work. Creativity at this level is not an
asset. The ability to independently follow through with a direction is a much greater skill
for the theatre makeup artist. The artist must be able to master an identical look
consistent between each performance. This application has to be performed quickly,
as scene and costume changes are usually only a few minutes at a time.

Stage Makeup Techniques

As theatre performances have transformed over the years, so has the makeup
and costumes. Most recently the concept of a more delicate look in makeup
application for the stage has emerged. This enables the actors to portray a more
realistic appearance suitable for the front row audience. As these are the customers
who pay the most for their tickets, the directors have focused on pleasing them.
Performances are often recorded for television and overdone makeup distracts from
the production on camera. Smaller and intimate theatres utilize a more street makeup
technique, while the larger auditoriums necessitate a stronger stage makeup
application to meet the distance of the audience.

Make-up Types

Stage makeup requires some unique techniques due to the nature of the
theatre. Makeup must last the entire scene without touch ups, verses a fashion photo
shoot where breaks can be taken for a fresh application. The types of makeup also
affect the artist's ability to comply with long scenes and quick costume changes.
Water-based makeup is best for the quick removal but tends to bleed easier in an
active scene. Oil-based makeup is better for the longer and active theatre scenes, but
a mess to wash off. Powder-based makeup is the ideal as it lasts long and is easy to
remove, but it flakes off the skin easy, which can cause actors to slip on stage if it clings
on feet or the floor. For each scene and performance, the actors, designers and
makeup artist must evaluate each of the pros and cons to determine the correct
makeup type to use.

During a theatre show, makeup is used to enhance desired features, like wrinkles
on the old and key emotion elements like the eyes and lips. Wax is often used for three-
dimensional work, usually to enhance a nose or some special effect. Makeup must be
applied strongly, but cleanly. This enhances the look of the face without smoothing the
features at a distance. Intense makeup is necessary to fight the washing out effects of
lighting and distance. Ultimately, the placement is as important as the intensity. Strong
eye makeup, darker lipstick colors and vibrant cheeks are key to producing the perfect
effect. While a clean look is crucial, a clown is usually not what the director is looking
for. The trick is to produce a clean look that is also blended. Therefore, the expert skills of
a makeup artist are an important part of the theatre performance.
 Lighting

Lighting is another factor that stage makeup needs to counterbalance. A large

variety of lighting is commonly used within a performance and the makeup has to
function appropriately. Typically, theatre lights produce cold tones, effectively
bleaching the makeup colors. Theatre makeup is used to add more warm tones to the
face through reds and oranges. Complicating this process even further, the lights also
change how the makeup colors appear to the audience. White looks blue, so cream
colors are used instead. Blue looks brown;thus, brown is more common in stage makeup
then blue. Yellow washes out completely, so reds, oranges and pinks replace the yellow
tones.

Final Check

During the dress rehearsal, the makeup artist will be found sitting in the audience.
It is necessary to double-check the performance of the makeup application standing
against the lighting and distance. Moving from row to row will help them to determine
how the entire audience will view the performers. Ultimately, the farthest rows can't see
the actors' faces, so makeup is mostly for the front rows and enhancing the entire look
of the show.

The Art of Applying Stage Makeup

Do you remember the first time you wore cosmetics? Perhaps you wore a lipstick
a little too dark, or your eyeshadow was in a shade and quantity that is now
embarrassing in hindsight. Just like an amateur preteen with her first tube of rouge,
applying stage makeup can be daunting to the small theater company or makeup
artist fresh out of college.

Perhaps you have a child about to make their stage debut. Maybe you are an
aspiring actor yourself and you need to learn the art of preparing theatrical makeup.
Either way, being skilled at applying stage makeup is a valuable skill to have.

Before you learn techniques of the trade, it's important to know some general
tips that can make or break your final result.

 Always make sure skin is clean and dry before applying anything
 Have all of your supplies arranged ahead of time. This way you can apply
the makeup for the dress rehearsal exactly as it will be for the
performance
 Check to ensure that there are no allergies to latex or cosmetics.
 Always use paint designed specifically for the skin
 Creating Various Looks for the Stage

 Basic Stage Makeup

1. Applying a base of stage makeup can be tough at first. The difficulty comes
from the stark contrast between the makeup's appearance in natural light and
that which is seen from the stage.

2. Makeup should be stronger and darker than that worn in real life, however,
you don't want to overpower the face in such a manner that the lead actor
appears clown-like, especially to those audience members who splurged on
front row seats.

3.The most common culprit in overzealous application is the cake base used in
most performance settings. Wearing too much can cause the subject to look
orange and unnatural, while too little will trigger a "washed out". Both
appearances can be equally unattractive.

4. Use a proper cake foundation. This involves applying water to the

pancake and then applying it to the face with a typical makeup sponge. The
more water used, the thinner and lighter the color will go on. Apply from the
inside of the T-zone out to the jawline and neck. This will prevent unnecessary
streaking and an "orange" look.

5. Finish off with rouge on the applies of the cheeks and a liquid eyeliner,
applying on the rim of the eye and then gradually thickening to prevent a cat-
like result.

 Aging an Actor

Many times, especially in community theatre, a younger actor will be cast as an

older character. The first step is to find examples of the character's age.

1. Have the actor scrunch up his face while you apply the cake foundation.

2. With the creases left behind, trace over in eye pencil. These will serve as drawn
in wrinkles to add age and depth to the face.

3. Use some highlights and shading with various tones of cake foundation.

4. You can throw in some white and grey paint to add to the effect.
Some theatre companies keep it simple by using white glue or a clear gel that
can fuse small portions of the skin together or create a more defined crease in
the skin.

5. Add some rouge or go the opposite route with a subtle brown to add
sallowness to the skin

 Period Makeup

If you are performing a Shakespearean play or some other piece from a specific
time period, it is important not to be heavy-handed with the base.

1. Create a white face with a simple powder several shades lighter than what
the actor would typically wear.

2. Further the contrast with dramatically red lips. Give longevity with a
longwearing lipstick or a red face paint.

3. Add accented beauty marks with an eye pencil or a dark brown paint.

4. Again, research is the most powerful tool you have toward a winning makeup
look that is both convincing and appropriate.

 Animal Prints

Some dance productions may call for a human to be transformed into an

animal. While masks are always an option, you could always try using face paint.

1. Cut adhesive strips into circles, ovals, stripes, or any other shape suited to your
desired animal pattern.

2. Paint over the entire face and the adhesive strips with a base color such as
black or brown.

3. After this has had a few minutes to dry (a blow dryer can speed this process),
peel off the adhesive.

4. Carefully define the bare shapes made with your choice of color

5. Trace over the eyebrows, cheeks, jawline, and other areas of the face
necessary for accentuation

6. Glitter and bright colors can help complete the look of other-worldly creatures.
  Skin Abrasions

Lastly, special effects makeup can be great for a production full of drama or
violence.

1. Invest in some latex or spirit gum that can be used to create gaping wounds,
scars, or other disfigurements that add an element of fear to your play.

2. Combine gelatin and water to clump a chunky "wound" onto your skin

3. Red face paint or fake blood can add accentuation to the pretend injury

4. For scars, stick to shades of pink and a flatter marking

Special effects and really any form of applying stage makeup can be tricky.

General Stage Makeup Application Techniques

The following techniques are useful for applying stage makeup.

1. Apply makeup evenly, but heavy. You will need to apply much more than an
individual would usually wear.

2. Use a sponge or makeup brush to apply base, coating face and neck and
evening out the edges with a cotton ball or wedge. Powder will finish off your
base by removing shine.

3. Add color, such as blush or bronzer, on the apples of your cheeks. If you are
attempting to look younger or fresh faced, add just a little color to the tip of your
nose, as well.

4. For elaborate makeup looks, such as a total face color change, apply stage
makeup beginning near your forehead, working your way down with the
makeup sponge or brush. It may require several coats, especially if you are trying
to turn the face white, like a mime or other character.

5. If you need to wear a wig for your part, be sure to blend makeup beyond
where the wig meets your skin. This will make the look appear more natural.

6. Apply eyeliners well beyond your lash line to create a dramatic look. This is also
a good way to add an exotic appearance to a character's look.
 Additional Tips

Consider these steps to really improve your stage makeup look.

1. Professional stage makeup kits can be purchased online or at theater retail

shops. These kits are useful if a drastic makeup look is needed.

2. Both men and women often wear stage makeup to achieve a more pleasing
look on stage.

3. Stage makeup techniques do not necessarily come easily. Practice makes

perfect.

4. Before applying any makeup, be sure to start with fresh, clean pores and skin
to prevent future breakouts. Stage lights are notorious for making individuals
sweat.

Whether you're just learning to apply stage makeup or looking to improve your
technique, there are a variety of resources available.

Using theatrical makeup can be lot of fun, however it also requires skill. Knowing
when to simplify, how to conceal and reveal certain aspects of the face, and which
brands to use can mean the difference between a lackluster makeup job and one that
shows a true transformation into character.

What to Know About Using Theatrical Makeup

If you are a participant in any genre of theater or dance, then you understand
the excitement of not only discovering your role in an upcoming production, but also
the fun of finding out what your character will be wearing. This often includes using
theatrical makeup, as it has the power to add age or youth, fright or fantasy, or themes
and emotions to a performer. Although there are many ways to apply theatrical
makeup, the following tips can apply to virtually any character.

 Less Is More

This may not be a popular statement in the world of theatrics, however if you are
performing in a smaller venue, makeup should remain somewhat subtle. Pancake
makeup, a thick foundation popular in the theater, can quickly cause a fair-faced
actress to turn orange. Be sure you use moderation and take your theater size and
specific character into consideration before you start caking on the base and blush.
  Better Left to Professionals

There are some looks you can achieve through using basic theatrical makeup;
however some are trickier than others. If something looks extra challenging, consider
leaving it to someone with professional experience. You may feel fine applying the look
when you are toying around at home, but when you are under the crunch and stress of
an actual production, you may falter. If you do not have a professional available to
you, then consider a scaled down or simpler look.

 Know Your Skin

Whether you are applying your own makeup or giving a look to someone else,
be sure to be familiar with that skin type. Stage makeup can be stifling to pores, and
those with sensitive or acne-prone skin can easily have a negative reaction to the
ingredients found in such products. Invest in some allergy-tested cosmetics, such as
mineral makeup in darker shades than usual, to have on hand for your next production.

Theatrical Makeup Transformations

One of the primary functions of theatrical makeup is to transform individuals into

someone or something completely different. This makeup can be used to both conceal
and reveal when helping actors go under their transformation. These techniques are
often used in big productions or when actors need to look nothing like their normal
selves.

 The Concealing

Both on stage and screen, one of the principal concealment’s makeup artists
perform on a regular basis is the removal of anything that is connected to real life
bodies that make an actor distract or stand out in a negative way, such as an unsightly
tattoo. Makeup can be used to conceal the tattoo and help the actor detach from
their own self and become more like the roll they are playing. By using concealers,
foundation and even face powder a tattoo can become virtually nonexistent with the
right theatrical makeup application.

 The Revealing

Actors can spend literally hours in the makeup chair before their character is
expressed and revealed through the finished product. Everything from false colored
contacts to glitter and sprays are used to completely transform the face and hair into
whatever it is the actor is portraying. This can prove difficult on an individual, especially
those who are in a long running theater production or some other sort of creative
endeavor demanding them to be in the same makeup for hours at a time, for
extended days and weeks out of the year. However, with the right application, this
makeup can be used to reveal an almost entirely different looking individual once their
makeup is complete.

Purpose

Theatrical makeup is inseparable from the act of performance itself. The aim of
theatrical makeup is to delineate and enhance the role of a character and to give
performers an additional tool for conveying the characters being performed. Stage
makeup is often used to create visual stereotypes or clichés that will be readily
understood by the audience. Stage makeup is usually much more colorful and graphic
than ordinary cosmetic makeup. When viewed closely, it can seem excessive and
exaggerated, but it works when the performer is on stage being seen at a distance.

Advanced Make-up

1. Bridal Makeup

-Bridal makeup is an essential part of the wedding planning process and designing the
perfect look for your wedding day is my number one priority. Here you will find some of
the latest beauty trends along with coordinating makeup vision boards to serve as
inspiration.

 Elegantly Natural-Fresh. Youthful. Modern. Sleek. Luminous.

This is by far the most desired look for brides as it just enhances your natural
beauty with soft washes of color in neutral tones. This is the perfect option for anyone
who does not typically wear a lot of makeup or someone who wants to look ultra-
natural with a touch of elegance.

 Soft Glow-Glamorous. Captivating. Sultry. Dramatic. Alluring.

The main focal point of this look is beautiful skin that shines with radiance and has
an incandescent visual effect, as seen on the glamorous Jennifer Lopez. This look is also
a great natural choice for any bride that wants to put extra emphasis on a bright
complexion with a smooth finish.

 Strikingly Smokey- Glamorous. Captivating. Sultry. Dramatic. Alluring.

 The Smokey eye is becoming increasingly more popular and always looks
effortless on celebrities like Kim Kardashian. This trend is a divine look for anyone who
wants extra definition and their eyes to truly stand out on the day of their wedding.

 Floral Fantasy- Romantic. Whimsical. Feminine. Enchanting. Artistic.

This trend is all about soft pops of color on the cheeks, eyes, and lips. Adding
color to all the features not only brightens up the face but is also a nice choice for a
bride who is looking to coordinate their makeup with color themes within their wedding
(such as their bridesmaids’ dresses or floral arrangements.

 Lady in Red-`Dramatic. Bold. Showstopping. Classic. Ravishing.

A red lip is always a romantic and classic look that will surely leave a lasting
impression on the day of your wedding. This trend looks especially great paired with
neutral eye makeup to create balance and allow for the lips to draw the most
attention.

2. Photography Make up

Always start with a base of both moisturizer and primer, so that all of the other
makeup will go on as smooth as possible, to reduce the editing you'll need to do later
to hide wrinkles or imperfections. As far as moisturizers go, I have heard that Nerium is
good option, but there are dozens more. If the subject has red skin, use a green tinted
primer or concealer to counteract the red and save you more time editing skin flaws.

All products you use should be matte to avoid adding any shine to the face. The
possible exception is lip color, since a bit of shine on the lips can make lips look fuller
and more attractive in a photograph. Additionally, avoid using products with SPF for
photo shoots, since the ingredients can often make the face look shinier in images.

The Eyes Have It!

BLENDING IS KEY – USE DARKER THAN EVERYDAY SHADES

 The eyes are the focal point in most portraits, so you need to make sure the
makeup really exaggerates the eyes, so they stand out very well. The bolder the color,
the more defined the eyes will be. Even if your subject normally wears brown or gray
mascara and eyeliner, bold black will look much better when photographed. You want
to use two or three coats of mascara to make sure that the eye lashes will be visible in a
photo. Additionally, use an eyebrow pencil to fill in the eyebrows. Fuller brows look
much better in a photo than very thin ones. Particularly for subjects with blond and
light-colored hair, the eyebrows will not show up very well at all in a photo unless you
define them with the eyebrow pencil.

For eye shadow, use three shades, even if the color you or your subject chooses
is neutral. Sweep the middle shade all over the lid and lower brow bone, dab the lighter
color at the inner corner of the eye and apply the darker color just in the crease
between the lid and the brow bone. This method creates depth and will make the eyes
really stand out in your images.

Blending is key to a great look in photographs. Use a brush to apply each color
and then another brush to blend the edges of each color, so that there's no abrupt
lines of any shadow color. Note: you can buy specific eye shadow primer. I highly
recommend using it (you would just lightly apply it all over the lid and brow bone before
you start applying eye shadow). It not only extends the wearing time of eye shadow,
but it makes the shadow color look much more vibrant and intense, which is what we
want it to show up well in photographs. In some cases, primer can make an eye
shadow color look two or three times brighter than if it was applied on a bare eyelid. Do
NOT use regular primer on the eyelid; make sure you buy a primer that is specifically
made to be used on eyelids to avoid skin reactions!

When choosing eye shadow colors for your subject, you want to complement
their eye color, since you want to emphasize the subject's eyes in a portrait. For blue
eyes, choose a warm tone to balance the cool blue. Champagne, golden brown and
peach are good choices. For brown eyes, most colors will look nice, since brown is
neutral and will not clash with the shadow color. In particular, purple, bronze and navy
work well. For green eyes, plum, pink and reddish browns are good options. For hazel
eyes, gray, pink and dark purples will bring out the eye color.

False eyelashes are another option for great eye definition. Choose a full set if
you want true drama in your image; choose individual lashes if you want a more natural
look in your image. Always apply the eye lash glue to the back of your hand, and then
run the lashes through the glue before placing on your lid. Do not squeeze the glue
directly onto the lashes, because if you have too much glue, you'll have trouble getting
the lashes to lay properly.
Powder or Cream Products?
For blush, highlighter and eye shadow, you have the option of powder or cream
products. For photographers who are just beginning to learn about applying makeup,
powder is the better choice, since it is easy to blend. Once you have some experience
with blending color on a face, you can experiment with cream products, which
typically are a bit longer wearing, but they take a lot of work to get the color blended
into the skin.
Quiz/ Assessment:

With the given set of pictures of theatrical make-up, choose two of your group
members to be the model for the make-up activity. ``

Assignment

Create your own theatrical make-up through painting or drawing.

References

 N.A.(2016). A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times. Retrieved from

https://cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmetics

 N.A.(2019). iWonder: The Story of Make-up. Retrieved from

https://www.bbc.com/timelines/z2wk39q

 N.A. (2019). Timeline of Cosmetics. Retrieved from

http://www.historyofcosmetics.net/cosmetic-history/cosmetic-timeline/

 Amy, F.; Warts, T.; Vasen, D. Love to know: Theatrical make-up. Retrieved from
https://makeup.lovetoknow.com/Using_Theatrical_Makeup