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ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ و ESRﻣﺘﺮ )ای .اس ﺁر().ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ داﺧﻠﯽ ﺧﺎزن اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻟﻴﺖ درﺑﺮاﺑﺮ ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ(.
http://pro‐radio.ru/measure/3288
http://vrtp.ru/index.php?s=bf40c99ef57414dd64ef0f51d4213e61&showtopic=13358&st=20
ESRیﺎ equivalent series resistorﮐﻪ ﺑﻪ ﻓﺎرﺳﯽ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ﻣﻌﺎدل ﺳﺮی ,ﻣﻘﺪار ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﯽ اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ ﻓﻘﻂ در ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎی اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻟﻴﺖ در ﺑﺮاﺑﺮ ﺟﺮیﺎن ACیﺎ
ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ ﺑﻮﺟﻮد ﻣﯽ ﺁیﺪ و دﻗﻴﻘﺎ ﻣﺎﻥﻨﺪ ایﻦ اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ یﮏ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ﺑﺎ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﺮی ﮐﻨﻴﻢ.
ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎی اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻟﻴﺖ هﻤﺎﻥﻄﻮر ﮐﻪ از اﺳﻤﺶ ﭘﻴﺪاﺳﺖ از ﻟﻮﻟﻪ ﺷﺪن ﻥﻮارهﺎیﯽ از ﺟﻨﺲ ﺁﻟﻮﻣﻴﻨﻴﻮم و ﻣﻮاد اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻟﻴﺖ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﻪ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ.
ﺑﺎ ﮔﺬﺷﺖ زﻣﺎن ﺣﺘﯽ اﮔﺮ از ﺧﺎزن اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻥﺸﻮد و ﮐﺎﻣﻼ ﺁﮐﺒﻨﺪ ﺑﺎﺷﻨﺪ یﺎ ﺑﺮ اﺛﺮ ﺣﺮارت یﺎ ﺕﺰریﻖ وﻟﺘﺎژ زیﺎد ,ایﻦ ﻣﻮاد ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﺕﺮﮐﻴﺐ ﻣﯽ دهﻨﺪ و در ﺑﺮاﺑﺮ ﻋﺒﻮر
ﺟﺮیﺎن ﻣﺘﻨﺎوب یﺎ ﭘﺎﻟﺲ و ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ از ﺧﻮد ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﻨﺪ.
اﮔﺮ ﺧﺎزن ﺑﯽ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﻪ ﺷﺪﻩ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ یﺎ ﺑﻪ دﻟﻴﻠﯽ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ESRاز ﺣﺪ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺑﺎﻻﺕﺮ ﺑﺮود در ﺁﻥﺼﻮرت ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﮐﺎر ﺁن ﭘﺎﺋﻴﻦ ﻣﯽ ﺁیﺪ.
اﻣﺎ ﻣﺘﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ در ﺟﺮیﺎن DCﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ESRاهﻤﻴﺘﯽ ﻥﺪارد و ﺕﺎﺛﻴﺮ ﻥﻤﯽ ﮔﺬارد.
ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ESRدر ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﮐﺎر ﺁﻣﭙﻠﯽ ﻓﺎیﺮهﺎ ,ﻓﻠﺰیﺎب ﻥﻮع , Piﺷﺎرژهﺎ ی ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ یﻌﻨﯽ ﻣﻨﺎﺑﻊ ﺕﻐﺬیﻪ ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ ﮐﻪ ﺑﺮای ﻟﭗ ﺕﺎپ و ﭘﺮیﻨﺘﺮ و اﺳﮑﻨﺮ و
.....ﺑﺴﻴﺎری از ﻟﻮازم اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮏ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد ﮐﺎﻣﻼ ﻣﻮﺛﺮ اﺳﺖ و اﮔﺮ ESRاز ﺣﺪ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺑﺎﻻﺕﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﮐﺎر ﺁﻥﻬﺎ را ﺑﻪ ﺷﺪت ﭘﺎﺋﻴﻦ ﻣﯽ ﺁورد و ﮔﺎهﯽ ﻣﺎﻥﻊ
ﮐﺎر ﺁن وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد.ﺑﺮای ﻣﺜﺎل ﭘﺎور ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ یﮏ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ ﮐﺎﻣﻼ رایﺞ ﺁن اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ اﮔﺮ ESRﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎی ﻣﺮﺑﻮط ﺑﻪ ﻣﺪار ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ در ﭘﺎور ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ از ﺣﺪ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ
ﺧﻴﻠﯽ ﺑﺎﻻﺕﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﻨﺪ در ﺁﻥﺼﻮرت وﻟﺘﺎژ ﺕﻮﻟﻴﺪی در ﭘﺎور ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ ﮐﻢ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد و ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ ﺑﺪ ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و هﻨﮓ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و ﮔﺎهﯽ ﻣﺎدر ﺑﻮرد ﺑﻪ دﻟﻴﻞ ﮐﻤﺒﻮد وﻟﺘﺎژ
اﺟﺎزﻩ روﺷﻦ ﺷﺪن ﺑﻪ ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ را ﻥﻤﯽ دهﺪ یﺎ ﻗﺴﻤﺘﻬﺎی ﺟﺎﻥﺒﯽ ﻣﺎﻥﻨﺪ درایﻮهﺎ ﺑﺪ ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻨﺪ.
هﻤﻴﻨﻄﻮر ایﻦ ﻣﺴﺌﻠﻪ در ﻣﻮﻥﻴﺘﻮر ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺕﺮ و ﺕﻠﻮزیﻮﻥﻬﺎ ﭼﻪ ﻗﺪیﻢ و ﺟﺪیﺪ وﺟﻮد دارد.
اﮔﺮ ﺧﺎزن ESRﻥﺎﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد در ﺑﺨﺸﻬﺎی دیﮕﺮ اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮏ ﮐﻪ ﺟﺮیﺎن DCو ﻣﺴﺘﻘﻴﻢ اﺳﺖ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﺷﻮد.
ESRﺑﺎﻻ ﺑﻪ ایﻦ ﻣﻌﻨﯽ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ ﮐﻪ ﺁن ﺧﺎزن ﺑﺪ اﺳﺖ و دور اﻥﺪاﺧﺘﻪ ﺷﻮد ﺑﻠﮑﻪ ﻓﻘﻂ از ﺁن ﺧﺎزن در ﺑﻌﻀﯽ ﻗﺴﻤﺘﻬﺎ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺷﻮد اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮد و ﻥﺘﻴﺠﻪ را ﺕﻀﻌﻴﻒ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ESRهﺮ ﭼﻪ ﮐﻤﺘﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ و ﺁﻥﺮا ﻓﻘﻂ ﺑﺎ ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد اﻥﺪازﻩ ﮔﺮﻓﺖ و ﺑﺎ اهﻢ ﻣﺘﺮ ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺷﻮد.
I searched the net many times to find practical ESR meter to build.
eventually I found one good using pic16f873a. I built it and the result was perfect.
No uncommon components, no needs hard adjustments, simple to assemble, cheap and practical for all.
This device designed by Russian man MR.GO and as you read I mentioned his address above.
For many of you finding and assembling smd is a little bit hard.
Another problem is that uses uncommon values for some resistors and 2 capacitors.
Again I searched the net. I found another person from Russia (Mr.Ruslan) who has designed dip version pcb for this device
that uses Just dip size components. Also this version used some uncommon values.
This time I didn't use uncommon values. I replaced them with nearest common values.
After adjustments, I compared results with first one that was built with exact values.
Results were same and worked exactly with first one. Now making this device at home became easy.
All its components available everywhere and is common. Just needs calibration that I explain step by step.
All files for making this meter available in my shared folder on 4shared.com to download for free.
You can download from that place or you can visit the author webpage and download there.. The address I mentioned at first.
هﻤﺎﻥﻄﻮر ﮐﻪ در اول ﻣﻘﺎﻟﻪ ﺧﻮاﻥﺪیﺪ ﺁﻗﺎی G.Oاز روﺳﻴﻪ یﮏ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﮐﺎرﺁﻣﺪ و ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﮐﻪ از ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﮐﻨﺘﺮل pic16f873Aاﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ و ﺑﻪ
رایﮕﺎن ﺑﺮای هﻤﻪ ﻣﻨﺘﺸﺮ ﮐﺮد.ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ اوﻟﻴﻪ ﻣﺨﺘﺮع از ﻓﻴﺒﺮ دو رو و ﻣﻘﺪاری ﻗﻄﻌﺎت SMDﺑﺎ ﻣﻘﺎدیﺮ ﻏﻴﺮ رایﺞ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
ﺑﺮای ﻣﻦ ﮐﻪ در ﺷﻴﺮاز هﺴﺘﻢ ﺕﻬﻴﻪ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت smdاﻣﮑﺎن ﻥﺪارد.ﻗﺒﻼ ﻣﻘﺪاری smdاز ﺕﻬﺮان ﺧﺮیﺪﻩ ﺑﻮدم و در ﺕﻌﻤﻴﻴﺮ ﺑﻌﻀﯽ وﺳﺎیﻞ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻢ.
ﺑﺎ ﺳﺮی و ﻣﻮازی ﮐﺮدن ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ و ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎ ﺕﻮاﻥﺴﺘﻢ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ اوﻟﻴﻪ را ﺑﺴﺎزم.دیﺪم ﺧﻴﻠﯽ ﺧﻮب ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
ﺧﻮاﺳﺘﻢ ﺁﻥﺮا ﻣﻨﺘﺸﺮ ﮐﻨﻢ وﻟﯽ دیﺪم ﺑﺎ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت smdﺑﺮای هﻤﻪ ﺳﺨﺖ اﺳﺖ.ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﺟﺴﺘﺠﻮ ﮐﺮدم و ﺑﻌﺪ از ﺧﻮاﻥﺪن 140ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﺑﻪ زﺑﺎن روﺳﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﺴﺘﻢ
ﻥﻮع ﻓﻴﺒﺮ dipﺁﻥﺮا ﮐﻪ از ﻗﻄﻌﺎت ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ ﭘﻴﺪا ﮐﻨﻢ .اﻣﺎ ایﻦ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ هﻢ از ﻣﻘﺎدیﺮ ﻏﻴﺮ رایﺞ در ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ و ﺧﺎزن اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدﻩ ﺑﻮد.
ﻣﺜﻼ ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی 4.3ﻥﺎﻥﻮﻓﺎراد از 4.7و ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی 360ﮐﻴﻠﻮاهﻢ از 330ﮐﻴﻠﻮ و ﻏﻴﺮﻩ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
ﺑﻌﺪ از ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﺁﻥﺮا ﺑﺎ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ اول ﮐﻪ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت را ﺑﺎ ﻣﻘﺪار اﺹﻠﯽ ﮔﺬاﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﻮدم ﻣﻘﺎیﺴﻪ ﮐﺮدم .دیﺪم ایﻦ یﮑﯽ هﻢ ﻣﺜﻞ اوﻟﯽ ﻋﺎﻟﯽ ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﺧﻮب اﺳﺖ.
ﺣﺎﻻ ایﻦ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﻨﺶ ﺁﺳﺎن اﺳﺖ و ﻗﻄﻌﺎت ﺁن هﻤﻪ ﺟﺎ ﭘﻴﺪا ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد ﭼﻮن رایﺞ اﺳﺖ و ﻓﻘﻂ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﻣﯽ ﺧﻮاهﺪ ﮐﻪ ﻗﺪم ﺑﻪ ﻗﺪم ﺕﻮﺽﻴﺢ ﻣﯽ دهﻢ.
ﻓﻴﺒﺮ را از ﻥﻮع ﻓﺎیﺒﺮ ﮔﻼس ﺳﺎﺧﺘﻢ ﭼﻮن ﻣﻘﺪاری داﺷﺘﻢ.دﻟﻴﻞ ﺧﺎﺹﯽ ﻥﺪارد.ﺷﻤﺎ از ﻓﻴﺒﺮﻣﺴﯽ ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
ﻓﻴﺒﺮpcb: :
ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﺕﻌﺪادی ﺟﺎﻣﭙﺮ دارد ﮐﻪ ﺑﺎیﺪ اول ﺁﻥﻬﺎ را ﻟﺤﻴﻢ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
Instead of 4.3 nano farad for C1 and C2 I used 4.7 nano farad.
Instead of IRF530 you can use IRF840 or IRF740 or IRF540.i used IRF540.
Instead of A733 transistor you can use some equivalents but consider pins names sequence.
ایﻨﺠﺎ ﻣﯽ ﻥﻮیﺴﻢ ﮐﻪ ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی ﻣﻘﺪارهﺎی اﺹﻠﯽ ﮔﻔﺘﻪ ﺷﺪﻩ در ﻥﻘﺸﻪ از ﭼﻪ ﻣﻘﺎدیﺮ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎی C1و C2ﮐﻪ 4.3ﻥﺎﻥﻮﻓﺎراد هﺴﺘﻨﺪ از 4.7ﻥﺎﻥﻮﻓﺎراد ﭘﻠﯽ اﺳﺘﺮ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎی R13و R30ﮐﻪ 18 KΩو 1 KΩهﺴﺘﻨﺪ از POT 10 KΩاﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
ﺕﺮاﻥﺰیﺴﺘﻮر A733ﮐﺎﻣﻼ رایﺞ اﺳﺖ و ﻣﺸﺎﺑﻪ دارد وﻟﯽ ﺑﺎیﺪ ﺑﻪ ﺕﺮﺕﻴﺐ ﭘﺎیﻪ هﺎ دﻗﺖ ﮐﺮد .اﻣﺎ ﺧﻮد A733ﮐﺎﻣﻼ رایﺞ اﺳﺖ و ﻣﺸﮑﻠﯽ در ﺕﻬﻴﻪ ﺁن ﻥﺨﻮاهﻴﺪ داﺷﺖ.
ﻗﻄﻌﻪ TL431رﻓﺮﻥﺲ وﻟﺘﺎژ اﺳﺖ.(voltage reference).وﻇﻴﻔﻪ ﺁن ﺕﻬﻴﻪ وﻟﺘﺎژ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر دﻗﻴﻖ ﻣﺮﺟﻊ اﺳﺖ.ﻗﻄﻌﻪ ایﺴﺖ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﻓﺮاوان و رایﺞ.
LCDیﺎ ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻥﻤﺎیﺶ هﻢ از ﻥﻮع ) 2x16دو در ﺷﺎﻥﺰدﻩ( اﺳﺖ .ﺑﻘﻴﻪ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت هﻢ ﮐﺎﻣﻼ رایﺞ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ.
ﻣﻮﻥﺘﺎژ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻴﻢ:
R31 and R30, replaced by 10 kΩ POT. by this change LCD contrast became adjustable.
هﻤﺎﻥﻄﻮر ﮐﻪ ﮔﻔﺘﻢ ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی R31و R30ﮐﻪ وﻇﻴﻔﻪ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ وﺽﻮح ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻥﻤﺎیﺶ را دارﻥﺪ از ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ 10 KΩاﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم ﺕﺎ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﺷﺪت وﺽﻮح دﻟﺨﻮاﻩ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ.
Notice to LCD's pins. 2 of them not used in pcb. 2 for backlight. I bent them because there is no place for them.
ﺑﺮای اﺕﺼﺎل ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻥﻤﺎیﺶ از ﭘﻴﻦ هﺪر pin headerاﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.اﻣﺎ ﻣﺘﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ دو ﺕﺎ از ﭘﺎیﻪ هﺎی ﺁن ﺑﺪون اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ ﻣﺮﺑﻮط ﺑﻪ ﻻﻣﭗ یﺎ ﺑﮏ ﻻیﺖ
LCDهﺴﺘﻨﺪ.ﺑﺮ روی ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﺟﺎیﯽ ﺑﺮای ﺁﻥﻬﺎ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ .ﻣﻦ دو ﭘﺎیﻪ ﺳﻮﮐﺖ را ﺧﻢ ﮐﺮدم.ﺷﺎیﺪ ﺑﻌﺪا ﺑﺨﻮاهﻢ از ﺁﻥﻬﺎ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻢ ﭘﺲ ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ اﻣﮑﺎﻥﺶ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ.
ﻥﻮﺑﺖ رﺳﻴﺪ ﺑﻪ ایﻦ ﮐﻠﻴﺪهﺎ.
Means in normal condition is disconnected and when you push, it connects and when you release, it disconnect.
ﻟﻄﻔﺎ دﻗﺖ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ایﻦ ﮐﻠﻴﺪهﺎ از ﻥﻮع push buttonهﺴﺘﻨﺪ یﻌﻨﯽ در ﺣﺎﻟﺖ ﻋﺎدی ﻗﻄﻊ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ و وﻗﺘﯽ ﻓﺸﺎر ﻣﯽ دهﻴﺪ وﺹﻞ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ و وﻗﺘﯽ رهﺎ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﻗﻄﻊ ﻣﯽ
ﺷﻮﻥﺪ.در ﻣﻐﺎزﻩ هﺎی اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮑﯽ ﺑﻪ ایﻨﻬﺎ " ﺕﺎک ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭻ یﺎ ﺕﮏ ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭻ " ﻣﯽ ﮔﻮیﻨﺪ.اﻣﺎ دو ﻥﻮع دارد :دو ﭘﺎیﻪ و ﭼﻬﺎر ﭘﺎیﻪ.
It is clear how to use 2 pins type. 2 pins are disconnected when you press they connect to each.
But, in 4 pins type 2 of them are always connected. It means be aware that 4 pins type has direction for soldering.
See in below picture. 2 of them are always connected to each. In some pcb they used as a jumper.
If you install it in wrong direction, your circuit becomes short and connected always in that part.
Distance of those pins that are connected to each is more than others.
.دو ﭘﺎیﻪ ﻗﻄﻊ اﺳﺖ وﻗﺘﯽ ﻓﺸﺎر ﻣﯽ دهﻴﺪ و ﻥﮕﻪ ﻣﯽ داریﺪ ﺁن دو وﺹﻞ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ.ﻥﻮع دو ﭘﺎیﻪ ﮐﻪ ﮐﺎﻣﻼ ﻣﺸﺨﺺ اﺳﺖ
. ﺑﺎیﺪ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ ﻥﺼﺐ دﻗﺖ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻨﮑﻪ ﻥﻮع ﭼﻬﺎرﭘﺎیﻪ ﺟﻬﺖ دارد.اﻣﺎ در ﻥﻮع ﭼﻬﺎر ﭘﺎیﻪ هﻤﻴﺸﻪ دو ﭘﺎیﻪ از ﭼﻬﺎر ﺕﺎ ﺑﻪ هﻢ وﺹﻞ اﺳﺖ
اﮔﺮ ﺟﻬﺖ ﮐﻠﻴﺪ را اﺷﺘﺒﺎﻩ ﺑﮕﺬاریﺪ ﺁﻥﻮﻗﺖ.اﻻن دو ﺕﺎ از ﭘﺎیﻪ ﺑﻪ هﻢ ﮐﺎﻣﻼ وﺹﻞ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ ﮐﻪ در ﻣﺪار اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮑﯽ ﺑﻪ ﻋﻨﻮان ﺟﺎﻣﭙﺮ از ﺁن اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد.ﻥﮕﺎﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ
در ﭘﺸﺖ ﮐﻠﻴﺪ هﻢ ﺑﻴﻦ ﭘﺎیﻪ هﺎیﯽ ﮐﻪ.ﻓﺎﺹﻠﻪ ﭘﺎیﻪ هﺎیﯽ ﮐﻪ ﺑﻪ هﻢ وﺹﻞ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ از ﺑﻘﻴﻪ ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ.دﻗﺖ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﻣﺪارﺕﺎن داﺋﻤﺎ وﺹﻞ ﻣﯽ ﻣﺎﻥﺪ
Their places.
ایﻦ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﺑﺎ دو وﻟﺘﺎژ ﻣﺜﺒﺖ ﭘﻨﺞ وﻟﺖ و ﻣﻨﻔﯽ ﭘﻨﺞ وﻟﺖ ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
Completed.
You see 3 wires.
. وﻟﺖ اﺳﺖ5 ﺳﻴﻢ ﺳﻴﺎﻩ ﻣﻨﻔﯽ. اﺳﺖGND ﺳﻴﻢ ﺁﺑﯽ. وﻟﺖ اﺳﺖ5 ﺳﻴﻢ ﻗﺮﻣﺰ ﻣﺜﺒﺖ.ﺳﻪ ﺕﺎ ﺳﻴﻢ ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ
.یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻨﮑﻪ دو ﻥﻮع وﻟﺘﺎژ ﻻزم داریﻢ ﮐﻪ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد از دو ﺕﺎ ﺑﺎﺕﺮی ﻣﺠﺰا ﺕﻬﻴﻪ ﮐﺮد
?Completed and ready to test. But how do you provide stable symmetrical +5 and ‐5 volts
In the first smd version, producing 2 voltages is considered on the circuit but in dip version power supply is omitted.
?But why
In smd version ICL7660 is used for providing ‐5 volts from +5 volts.
7660 is a kind of switching power supply that configured as a voltage converter in this circuit.
It uses frequency for this action and possible to inject noise in this circuit. Also it is low power voltage converter.
By these reasons it causes instability in this device while we need stable condition for high accuracy.
The best choice is to use voltage regulators such as 78L05 and 79L05 and two 9 volts batteries.
I found this simple symmetrical power supply on another circuit. Built it and it works perfectly.
در ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ اوﻟﻴﻪ ﮐﻪ smdﺑﻮد ﺕﻮﻟﻴﺪ دو ﻥﻮع وﻟﺘﺎژ ﺑﺮ روی ﻣﺪار در ﻥﻈﺮ ﮔﺮﻓﺘﻪ ﺷﺪﻩ اﻣﺎ در ﻓﻴﺒﺮ دوﻣﯽ ﻥﻮع dipایﻦ ﺣﺬف ﺷﺪﻩ و ﺑﺎیﺪ ﺧﻮدﺕﺎن
در ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ اوﻟﻴﻪ از ﺁیﺴﯽ icl7660ﮐﻪ یﮏ ﻥﻮع اﻓﺰایﻨﺪﻩ و ﻣﺒﺪل وﻟﺘﺎژ ﮐﻢ ﻗﺪرت از ﻥﻮع ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ اﺳﺖ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﺷﺪﻩ.
ایﻦ ﻥﻮع ﺁیﺴﯽ ﺑﺎ ﺕﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ و ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﺁن در یﮏ ﺧﺎزن وﻟﺘﺎژ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻣﯽ دهﺪ.در ایﻦ ﺣﺎﻟﺖ ﭼﻮن از ﺕﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ در ﻣﺪار ایﺠﺎد ﻥﻮیﺰ
و ﻥﺎﭘﺎیﺪاری ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ ﮐﻪ ﮔﺎهﯽ ﺑﺎﻋﺚ ﺑﯽ دﻗﺘﯽ در اﻥﺪازﻩ ﮔﻴﺮی ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد.
ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ از ﺁیﺴﯽ هﺎی وﻟﺘﺎژ رﮔﻮﻻﺕﻮر و دو ﻋﺪد ﺑﺎﺕﺮی ﺑﺮای ﺕﻬﻴﻪ وﻟﺘﺎژ ﻣﻨﻔﯽ و ﻣﺜﺒﺖ و GNDاﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
ﻣﻦ از ﻗﺴﻤﺘﯽ از ﻣﺪار و ﻓﻴﺒﺮ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ دیﮕﺮی ﺑﺮای ایﻨﮑﺎر اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
ﺁن ﻗﺴﻤﺖ را ﺑﺎ ﻓﺘﻮﺷﺎپ ﺑﺮیﺪم .ﺑﺮایﺶ ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﺕﻬﻴﻪ و اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم ﮐﻪ از ﮐﺎرش راﺽﯽ هﺴﺘﻢ.
ایﻦ ﻣﺪار ﺳﺎدﻩ از ﭼﻨﺪ ﻋﺪد ﺧﺎزن و یﮏ ﻋﺪد ﺁیﺴﯽ ﻓﺮاوان 78L05و یﮏ ﻋﺪد 79L05اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
Dimensions are 3.3 x 3 cm. width and high of white square area.
Lets test it. Negative 5 volts.
.اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻴﻢ
Positive 5 volts.
Before placing ICs , measure voltages in pcb. see if voltages everywhere are proper or not.
روی ﻣﺪار ﻗﺒﻞ از ایﻨﮑﻪ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت را ﺳﻮار ﮐﻨﻴﺪ وﻟﺘﺎژهﺎ را اﻥﺪازﻩ ﺑﮕﻴﺮیﺪ ﺑﺒﻴﻨﻴﺪ روی ﻣﺪار ﺑﺮای ﻗﻄﻌﺎت وﻟﺘﺎژ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ داریﺪ.
Turn POT to adjust LCD contrast and see something on screen.
ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ )ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ﻣﺘﻐﻴﺮ( ﺑﺮای ﺷﺪت وﺽﻮح ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻥﻤﺎیﺶ را ﻣﯽ ﭼﺮﺧﺎﻥﻴﻢ ﺕﺎ ﭼﻴﺰی دیﺪﻩ ﺷﻮد.
When I switched power supply and turned POT, I saw this on screen.
زﻣﺎﻥﯽ ﮐﻪ وﻟﺘﺎژ را وﺹﻞ ﮐﺮدم و ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ را ﭼﺮﺧﺎﻥﺪم دیﺪم ایﻦ ﻇﺎهﺮ ﺷﺪ.
Must appear numbers and letters. But didn't. because there is something wrong in my circuit.
.ﭼﻮن ﻣﺸﮑﻠﯽ در ﻣﺪار وﺟﻮد داﺷﺖ. اﻣﺎ ﻥﺸﺪ.ﺑﺎیﺪ ﺣﺮوف و اﻋﺪاد ﻇﺎهﺮ ﻣﯽ ﺷﺪﻥﺪ
When becomes like above picture, means microcontroller does not work.
First I checked power supply voltages. In one place on pcb a copper line cut very thin. Even I couldn't see by eyes.
Just one reason caused this problem. It was 20 MHz crystal. It couldn't oscillate and work. But why?
These capacitors used to make crystal function more stable. I removed them and device began to work.
If you faced this problem try to use higher value capacitor such as 27 PF or 33 PF.
.وﻗﺘﯽ ایﻨﻄﻮر ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻨﮑﻪ ﺑﻪ دﻟﻴﻠﯽ ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﮐﻨﺘﺮل ﮐﺎر ﻥﻤﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ
.ﻥﻤﯽ داﻥﻢ ﭼﻪ وﻗﺖ و ﭼﺮا ایﻨﻄﻮر ﺷﺪﻩ ﺑﻮد.دیﺪم در ﺟﺎیﯽ از ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﻥﻮار ﻣﺴﯽ ﺧﻴﻠﯽ ﺧﻴﻠﯽ ﻥﺎزک ﺑﺮیﺪﻩ ﺷﺪﻩ.اول وﻟﺘﺎژهﺎ را اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﮐﺮدم
.ﺁﻥﺮا وﺹﻞ ﮐﺮدم اﻣﺎ ﺑﺎزهﻢ ﻣﻴﮑﺮو ﮐﻨﺘﺮل ﮐﺎر ﻥﮑﺮد وﻟﯽ وﻟﺘﺎژ داﺷﺖ.ایﻦ ﻗﻄﻌﯽ در ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﻥﻤﯽ ﮔﺬاﺷﺖ ﺑﻪ ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﮐﻨﺘﺮل وﻟﺘﺎژ ﺑﺮﺳﺪ
.دیﺪم هﻢ ﺧﻮب ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و هﻢ درﺳﺖ ﭘﺮوﮔﺮام ﺷﺪﻩ.ﺁﻥﺮا درﺁوردم و ﺑﺎ ﭘﺮوﮔﺮاﻣﺮ اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﮐﺮدم.ﺑﻪ ایﻦ ﻥﺘﻴﺠﻪ رﺳﻴﺪم ﮐﻪ ﻣﻴﮑﺮو ﮐﺎر ﻥﻤﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ
. ﻣﮕﺎهﺮﺕﺰ ﺑﻮد20 ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﻓﻘﻂ یﮏ ﻣﺸﮑﻞ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﺴﺖ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ و ﺁﻥﻬﻢ ﮐﺎر ﻥﮑﺮدن ﮐﺮیﺴﺘﺎل
ﮐﺮیﺴﺘﺎل را ﻋﻮض ﮐﺮدم .ﺑﺎزهﻢ ﮐﺎر ﻥﮑﺮد.
ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﻓﻘﻂ یﮏ ﭼﻴﺰ دیﮕﺮ ﻣﯽ ﻣﺎﻥﺪ و ﺁﻥﻬﻢ ﭼﻴﺰی ﮐﻪ ﻣﺎﻥﻊ ﮐﺎر ﮐﺮدن ﮐﺮیﺴﺘﺎل ﺷﻮد.درﺳﺖ ﺣﺪس زدیﺪ.ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎی 22ﭘﻴﮑﻮﻓﺎراد.
ایﻦ ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎ را ﺑﺮای ﺕﺜﺒﻴﺖ ﮐﺎر ﮐﺮیﺴﺘﺎل در ﺹﻮرت ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دﻣﺎی ﻣﺤﻴﻂ ﻣﯽ ﮔﺬارﻥﺪ .ﺑﺮای ﺕﺜﺒﻴﺖ ﮐﺎر ﮐﺮیﺴﺘﺎل.
هﺮ دو ﺧﺎزن را ﺣﺬف ﮐﺮدم و ﻣﺪار ﺷﺮوع ﺑﻪ ﮐﺎر ﮐﺮد.ﺷﻤﺎ هﻢ اﮔﺮ ﺑﻪ ایﻦ ﻣﺸﮑﻞ رﺳﻴﺪیﺪ هﺮ دو ﺧﺎزن را ﺣﺬف ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﻣﺸﮑﻠﯽ در دﻗﺖ و ﮐﺎر ﻣﺪار ایﺠﺎد ﻥﻤﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
ﻗﺒﻼbefore: :
ﺑﻌﺪاafter: :
When device start to work, numbers appear on screen.
perhaps not.
.ﺷﺎیﺪ هﻢ ﻥﻪ
Now it is time to connect probe to device.
2 ports available on pcb for probe connection. Both are same. Use one of them. No matter which one.
. ﺑﻪ هﺮ ﮐﺪام وﺹﻞ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﻓﺮﻗﯽ ﻥﻤﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.دو ﺟﺎ ﺑﺮای اﺕﺼﺎل ﺳﻴﻢ وﺟﻮد دارد
But for stable result , it is better to use shielded wire. Connect shield part of wire to GND of test port.
ﻣﻦ از ﮔﻴﺮﻩ ﺳﻮﺳﻤﺎری و ﺳﻴﻢ ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ و ﺑﺮیﺪن ﻗﺴﻤﺘﯽ از ﭘﻴﻦ هﺪر اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم.
اﻣﺎ ﺑﺮای ﻥﺘﺠﻪ ﭘﺎیﺪار و ﺑﺎﺛﺒﺎت ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ از ﺳﻴﻢ ﺷﻴﻠﺪ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﮐﻪ ﺷﻴﻠﺪ ﺁن هﻤﻴﻦ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ ﻣﻨﻔﯽ ﭘﺮاب ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد.
)اﻟﺒﺘﻪ وﻗﺘﯽ ﻣﯽ ﮔﻮیﻢ ﻣﻨﻔﯽ ﭘﺮاب در واﻗﻊ روی ﻓﻴﺒﺮ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد (GND
You can use this port.
.ایﻨﮑﻪ ﻋﺪدی را ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ یﺎ ﻥﻪ اﻻن ﻣﻬﻢ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ.ﺑﮕﺬاریﺪ هﻤﻴﻨﻄﻮر ﺑﻤﺎﻥﺪ و ﭼﻨﺪ ﺛﺎﻥﻴﻪ ﺑﮕﺬرد
Now , push down middle key and keep it down.
While keeping middle key down and that screen is appear , first we turn that POT to zero all numbers.
.هﻤﺎﻥﻄﻮر ﮐﻪ ﮐﻠﻴﺪ وﺳﻂ را ﻥﮕﻪ داﺷﺘﻪ ایﻢ و ﺁن ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻇﺎهﺮ اﺳﺖ اول ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ را ﻣﯽ ﭼﺮﺧﺎﻥﻴﻢ ﺕﺎ هﻤﻪ اﻋﺪاد اهﻤﯽ ﺹﻔﺮ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ
Now, turn back POT slowly until to see minimum numbers near zero but not zero.
Means numbers for 10 ohms must not to be zero but should be near zero.
For example 3 or 4 or 5. Like this.
I think number 3 or 4 should be more proper. See. Now becomes 9. It is slightly high.
ﺣﺎﻻ ﺁرام ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ را ﺑﺮﻣﯽ ﮔﺮداﻥﻴﻢ ﺕﺎ ﺑﻪ ﺣﺪاﻗﻞ اﻋﺪاد ﻥﺰدیﮏ ﺑﻪ ﺹﻔﺮ ﺑﺮﺳﻴﻢ.
یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻨﮑﻪ ﻋﺪد ﺑﺮای 10اهﻢ ﺹﻔﺮ ﻥﺒﺎﺷﺪ وﻟﯽ ﺕﮏ رﻗﻤﯽ و ﻥﺰدیﮏ ﺑﻪ ﺹﻔﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ .ﻣﺜﻼ ﺑﺸﻮد 3یﺎ 4یﺎ . 5
ﺷﺨﺼﺎ اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﮐﺮدم و در ﺳﺎیﺖ اﺹﻠﯽ هﻢ ﺧﻮاﻥﺪم ﮐﻪ ﻋﺪد 3یﺎ 4ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ اﺳﺖ .ﻥﮕﺎﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ:اﻻن ﺷﺪ .9ایﻦ ﻣﻘﺪاری زیﺎد اﺳﺖ.
Ok. Eventually I sat on 4 but here just for test I chose 8. Just wanted to show how to adjust.
Now, while you kept middle key down, press first key from left to store adjustment in microcontroller.
.ﻓﻘﻂ ﻣﯽ ﺧﻮاهﻢ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ را ﻥﺸﺎن دهﻢ. ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ8 وﻟﯽ در ایﻨﺠﺎ ﺑﺮای اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﻋﺪد. ﮔﺬاﺷﺘﻢ4 در ﻥﻬﺎیﺖ ﻣﻦ روی ﻋﺪد.ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﺧﺐ
.ﺣﺎﻻ هﻤﺎﻥﻄﻮر ﮐﻪ ﮐﻠﻴﺪ وﺳﻂ را ﻥﮕﻪ داﺷﺘﻪ ایﺪ ﮐﻠﻴﺪ ﺳﻤﺖ ﭼﭗ ﺁﻥﺮا هﻢ ﻓﺸﺎر دهﻴﺪ ﺕﺎ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻤﺎت در ﻣﻴﮑﺮو ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﺷﻮد و ﺑﺎ ﺧﺎﻣﻮش ﺷﺪن ﻣﺪار از ﺑﻴﻦ ﻥﺮود
ﺣﺎﻻ ﮔﻴﺮﻩ هﺎ را از هﻢ ﺟﺪا ﮐﻨﻴﺪ .ﺑﺎیﺪ ﻋﺪدی ﺑﻴﻦ 11ﺕﺎ 12دیﺪﻩ ﺷﻮد.ﺣﺪودا .اﮔﺮ ﻥﺒﻮد ﮐﻤﺘﺮ یﺎ ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﻥﮕﺮان ﻥﺸﻮیﺪ.
Again connect clips to each. ESR value most become zero.
If it didn't become zero, you must repeat POT adjustment for zeroing again.
Because it shows the number you have chosen is not proper and is high.
اﮔﺮ ﺹﻔﺮ ﻥﺸﺪ ﺑﺎیﺪ ﻣﺮﺣﻠﻪ ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ را دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﺕﮑﺮار ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﭼﻮن ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ ﮐﻪ ﻋﺪد اﻥﺘﺨﺎﺑﯽ ﺷﻤﺎ ﺑﺮای وﺳﻴﻠﻪ زیﺎد ﺑﻮدﻩ.ﻣﻘﺪار ﺁﻥﺮا ﮐﻢ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ و دوﺑﺎرﻩ هﻤﻴﻦ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ
ﻣﺮﺣﻠﻪ اول.
Connect your ohm meter probes to each and keep it 20 seconds to see its tolerance.
اﺑﺘﺪا یﮏ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ یﮏ اهﻢ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر دﻗﻴﻖ و یﮏ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ دﻩ اهﻢ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر دﻗﻴﻖ اﻥﺘﺨﺎب ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
ﻣﻨﻈﻮرم ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ یﮏ اهﻢ و دﻩ اهﻢ یﮏ درﺹﺪ اﺳﺖ .در ﺷﻴﺮاز وﺟﻮد ﻥﺪارد .ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﮐﺎر دیﮕﺮی ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻴﻢ.
دو ﺳﺮ ﭘﺮاب اهﻢ ﻣﺘﺮ را ﺑﻪ وﺹﻞ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻢ و ﻣﯽ ﮔﺬارم 20ﺕﺎﻥﻴﻪ ﺑﮕﺬرد ﺕﺎ ﺧﻄﺎی اهﻤﺘﺮ را ﺑﺒﻴﻨﻢ.
As you see, 1 ohm became 1.7 ohm. Means this resistor is 1 ohm.
.()ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ ﺑﮕﻮیﻢ ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ. ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ایﻦ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ دﻗﻴﻘﺎ یﮏ اهﻢ اﺳﺖ.یﮏ اهﻢ ﺷﺪ یﮏ و هﻔﺖ دهﻢ
It is conditional. In my test, It shows 10 ohms less than exact value because it is not adjusted.
.ایﻦ دو ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ را هﻤﻴﺸﻪ در ﺟﺎیﯽ ﻥﮕﻬﺪاریﺪ ﮐﻪ اﮔﺮ ﻻزم ﺷﺪ ﺑﻌﺪا ﺑﺎزهﻢ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ از هﻤﻴﻦ اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﺣﺎﻻ ایﻨﻬﺎ ﺷﺪﻥﺪ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎی ﮐﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮﻩ یﺎ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﺮدن دﺳﺘﮕﺎﻩ
. ﺷﺎیﺪ ﻣﺎل ﺷﻤﺎ ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﻥﺸﺎن دهﺪ.ﭼﻮن هﻨﻮز ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ.اﻻن دﻩ اهﻢ را ﮐﻤﺘﺮ ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ
Write it on paper.
Also 1 ohms.
This device has a section for adjustments." COEFF " part. (co efficient).
Means in this section by changing factors of resistors and capacitance, you can make your device accurate.
But how?
.یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻨﮑﻪ ﺑﺎ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ اﻋﺪاد یﺎ ﭘﺎراﻣﺘﺮهﺎی ایﻦ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ ﮐﻪ ﺽﺮیﺐ ﺑﺮای ﻣﻘﺪار ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ و ﺧﺎزن هﺴﺘﻨﺪ ﺷﻤﺎ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را ﮐﺎﻣﻼ و دﻗﻴﻖ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ
اﻣﺎ ﭼﻄﻮر؟
Immediately a new screen will appear. You can release the key. Not necessary to keep it down.
.ﻻزم ﻥﻴﺴﺖ ﺁﻥﺮا ﻥﮕﻬﺪاریﺪ.ﮐﻠﻴﺪ را رهﺎ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.ﺑﺪون ﻓﺎﺹﻠﻪ ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﺟﺪیﺪی ﻇﺎهﺮ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد
As you see. These are factors for changing capacitors and resistors reading.
.ﮐﻢ و زیﺎد ﮐﺮدن ایﻦ ﺽﺮایﺐ ﻣﻘﺪار ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ و ﺧﺎزن ﺧﻮاﻥﺪﻩ ﺷﺪﻩ در ﺹﻔﺤﻪ اﺹﻠﯽ و اوﻟﯽ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻣﯽ دهﻨﺪ
For me it shows resistors values less than actual. So I have to increase them to see increment in main screen.
Middle key increases (+) values and first key from right decreases (‐)values.
ﮐﻠﻴﺪ وﺳﻂ ﻣﻘﺎدیﺮ را زیﺎد ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و ﮐﻠﻴﺪ اول از ﺳﻤﺖ راﺳﺖ ﻣﻘﺎدیﺮ را ﮐﻢ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.
Decreasing.
After you changed factors (coeffs) for resistors, by pressing first key from left , go to coeff for Cx and turn off
If in coeff for resistors, you changed factors but stay on that screen and do turn off‐on device, changes for resistors will not
store.
So, when you changed factors for resistors, go to coeff for Cx (by pressing first key from left) and then make device off‐on.
Also for capacitance. When you changed capacitance coeff, go to resistor coeff and then do off‐on to store Changes for Cx.
By the way, changing factors (coeffs) do not have effects on each other.
For 1Ω just changes 1Ω reading and for 10Ω just changes 10Ω reading. All act individually.
As you see. I increased factor for 10 ohms and it reads higher. I must again decrease its factor.
ﺑﺮویﺪ و دﺳﺘﮕﺎﻩ را ﺧﺎﻣﻮش و روﺷﻦCx coeff ﺑﺎ ﻓﺸﺎر دادن ﮐﻠﻴﺪ اول از ﺳﻤﺖ ﭼﭗ ﺑﻪ روی ﻗﺴﻤﺖ.ﺑﻌﺪ از ایﻨﮑﻪ ﺽﺮایﺐ را ﺑﺮای یﮏ اهﻢ و دﻩ اهﻢ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دادیﺪ
.ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺕﺎ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮات ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﺷﺪﻩ و ﺹﻔﺤﻪ اول هﻢ دیﺪﻩ ﺷﻮد
. ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دهﻴﺪ وﻟﯽ روی هﻤﺎن ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را ﺧﺎﻣﻮش و روﺷﻦ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮات ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪcoeff اﮔﺮ در ﻗﺴﻤﺖ
ﺑﺮای ﺧﺎزن ﺑﺮویﺪ )ﺑﺎ زدن ﮐﻠﻴﺪ اول از ﺳﻤﺖ ﭼﭗ( و ﺑﻌﺪ ﺧﺎﻣﻮش و روﺷﻦ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺕﺎ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮات ذﺧﻴﺮﻩcoeff ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ وﻗﺘﯽ ﺽﺮایﺐ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دادیﺪ ﺑﻪ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ
ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮات ﺧﺎزن,روﺷﻦ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ- اﮔﺮ ﻣﺎل ﺧﺎزن را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دادیﺪ وﻟﯽ روی هﻤﺎن ﺹﻔﺤﻪ ﺧﺎزن وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را ﺧﺎﻣﻮش. ﺑﺮای ﺧﺎزن هﻢ هﻤﻴﻨﻄﻮر.ﺷﻮد
در ﻣﻴﮑﺮو ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ.ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﺑﻪ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ ﺑﺮویﺪ و ﺑﻌﺪ ﺧﺎﻣﺶ-روﺷﻦ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺕﺎ ذﺧﻴﺮﻩ ﺷﻮد.
ﺽﻤﻨﺎ ﺽﺮایﺐ ﺑﻪ هﻢ رﺑﻄﯽ ﻥﺪارﻥﺪ.ﻣﺎل یﮏ اهﻢ ﻓﻘﻂ یﮏ اهﻢ را و ﻣﺎل دﻩ اهﻢ ﻓﻘﻂ هﻤﺎن را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻣﯽ دهﺪو ایﻦ دو ﺕﺎﺛﻴﺮی روی ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ ﺧﺎزن ﻥﺪارﻥﺪ.
اﻻن ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ ﻣﻦ ﺽﺮیﺐ دﻩ اهﻢ را ﺧﻴﻠﯽ زیﺎد ﮐﺮدم و درﺳﺖ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ.ﭼﻮن ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ از دﻩ اهﻢ ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ .ﺑﺎیﺪ ﺁﻥﺮا ﮐﻢ ﮐﻨﻢ.
ﺁهﺎن ﺣﺎﻻ ﺷﺪ.یﮏ اهﻢ دﻗﻴﻘﺎ هﻤﺎن یﮏ اهﻢ ﺷﺪ.دیﮕﺮ ﺽﺮیﺐ ایﻨﺮا ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻥﻤﯽ دهﻢ.ﺧﻮب اﺳﺖ.
I return to coeff and this time just change for 10 ohms.
دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﺑﻪ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ coeffﻣﯽ روم و ایﻨﺒﺎر ﻓﻘﻂ ﻣﺎل دﻩ اهﻢ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻣﯽ دهﻢ.
Take one new capacitor. If you have commercial CAP meter, it is better. If don't have, you can use
. ﺣﺎﻻ ﻥﻮﺑﺖ ﺑﻪ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﺧﺎزن اﺳﺖ.ﺕﺎ ایﻨﺠﺎ ﻣﻘﺪار ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ را دﻗﻴﻘﺎ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﺮدیﻢ
.یﮏ ﺧﺎزن ﻥﻮ ﺑﺮداریﺪ و ﺁﻥﺮا اﮔﺮ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ داریﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺑﻬﺘﺮ و اﮔﺮ ﻥﺪاریﺪ ﺁﻥﺮا ﺑﺎ ﻣﻮﻟﺘﯽ ﻣﺘﺮی ﮐﻪ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ دارد اﻥﺪازﻩ ﺑﮕﻴﺮیﺪ
Capacitor and go to electronic tools shop. Ask sales person if his/her multimeter has CAP meter, kindly measure your CAPs
accurately.
It just takes 1 minute and almost always the do it for you for free.
By the way, it is not important if your capacitance became 80 or 90 or 105 µF or … any value.
Just it is important for you to know the exact value of your capacitor.
ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد ﺑﺮداریﺪ و ﺑﻪ ﻣﻐﺎزﻩ یﺎ ﺕﻌﻤﻴﻴﺮﮔﺎﻩ اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮑﯽ ﺑﺮویﺪ و100 یﮏ یﺎ دو ﻋﺪد ﺧﺎزن.اﮔﺮ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ ﻥﺪاریﺪ و ﻣﻮﻟﺘﯽ ﻣﺘﺮ ﻣﺠﻬﺰ ﺑﻪ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ هﻢ ﻥﺪاریﺪ
.از ﻓﺮوﺷﻨﺪﻩ ﺧﻮاهﺶ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺁن ﺧﺎزن را اﮔﺮ ﻣﻮﻟﺘﯽ ﻣﺘﺮش ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ دارد ﺑﺮایﺘﺎن دﻗﻴﻘﺎ اﻥﺪازﻩ ﺑﮕﻴﺮد
. ﺑﮕﻮﺋﻴﺪ ﺑﺮای ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ و ﮐﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮﻩ ﮐﺮدن یﮏ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ ﻣﯽ ﺧﻮاهﻴﺪ, اﮔﺮ ﭘﺮﺳﻴﺪ ﺑﺮای ﭼﻪ ﻣﯽ ﺧﻮاهﻴﺪ
. ﻣﻬﻢ ایﻦ اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ یﮏ ﺧﺎزن را دﻗﻴﻘﺎ ﺑﺪاﻥﻴﺪ. ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد یﺎ هﺮ ﭼﻴﺰ دیﮕﺮ105 یﺎ90 یﺎ80 ﺽﻤﻨﺎ ﻣﻬﻢ ﻥﻴﺴﺖ ﮐﻪ ﺁن ﺧﺎزن ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺘﺶ ﺑﺸﻮد
. اول ﺁﻥﺮا ﺑﺎ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ اﻥﺪازﻩ ﮔﺮﻓﺘﻢ. ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﺮدم100 ﻣﻦ از
It shows less. Instead of 92µF shows 86µF. So I must increase its coeff value.
. ﭘﺲ ﺑﺎیﺪ ﺽﺮیﺒﺶ را زیﺎد ﮐﻨﻢ. ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد86 ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ92 ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎی. ﻣﻘﺪارش را ﮐﻢ ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ.ﺣﺎﻻ ﺁﻥﺮا ﺑﺎ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ اﻥﺪازﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮔﻴﺮم
First I increased coeff for Cx. Then I went to coeff for resistor and did off and on.
Now becomes ok. It shows accurately. Device adjusted and ready to work.
Read like this: capacitance is 92 micro farads and ESR is 628 mili ohms.(picture below).
ﺑﻪ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ coeffﺧﺎزن رﻓﺘﻢ.ﺽﺮیﺒﺶ را زیﺎد ﮐﺮدم و ﺑﻌﺪ ﺑﻪ ﻗﺴﻤﺖ coeffﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺖ رﻓﺘﻢ و وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را ﺧﺎﻣﻮش و روﺷﻦ ﮐﺮدم.
ایﻦ هﻢ درﺳﺖ ﺷﺪ.ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ را دﻗﻴﻖ ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ .اﻻن وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﮐﺎﻣﻼ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ و ﺁﻣﺎدﻩ ﮐﺎر اﺳﺖ.
ایﻨﻄﻮر ﺑﺨﻮاﻥﻴﺪ :ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن 92ﻣﻴﮑﺮو ﻓﺎراد و ESRﺁن 628ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ اﺳﺖ.
ﺽﻤﻨﺎ ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن را در ﺟﺎیﯽ ﻥﮕﻬﺪاریﺪ ﺕﺎ ﺑﻌﺪهﺎ اﮔﺮ ﻻزم ﺷﺪ ﺑﺮای ﮐﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮﻩ ﮐﺮدن )ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ دﻗﻴﻖ( اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
Ok. You have built this capacitance and ESR meter successfully.
But how do you know which ESR value is good or which is not?
For determination it has table. If ESR value was near table value or it was almost in range, it means that CAP
Has proper ESR and is a good quality. But if the value was considerately higher for example 2 times more, it means
That CAP has bad ESR and is not good quality to use in AC circuit.
But if the value was lower than ESR value of table, it means that CAP is very good quality and much proper for using
.ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﻋﺎﻟﯽ
.ﺁر ﻣﺘﺮ( ﺑﺴﺎزیﺪ-اس- ﻣﺘﺮ )ایESR ﺷﻤﺎ ﻣﻮﻓﻖ ﺷﺪیﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺧﺎزن ﺳﻨﺞ و
ﺁنESR اﮔﺮ در ﻥﺰدیﮑﯽ ایﻦ اﻋﺪاد ﺑﻮد یﻌﻨﯽ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ و ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ اﺳﺖ اﻣﺎ اﮔﺮ ﻗﺎﺑﻞ ﺕﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﺑﻮد ﻣﺜﻼ دو ﺑﺮاﺑﺮ ﺑﻮد در ﺁﻥﺼﻮرت.ﺑﺮای ﺕﺸﺨﻴﺺ ﺟﺪول دارد
. یﻌﻨﯽ ﺁن ﺧﺎزن ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﻋﺎﻟﯽ و ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ و ﻣﺮﻏﻮب اﺳﺖ. ﮐﻤﺘﺮ ﺑﻮد ﮐﻪ ﭼﻪ ﺑﻬﺘﺮESR اﮔﺮ هﻢ.ﺧﺎزن ﻥﺎﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ اﺳﺖ
Now, regarding to above ESR table you can find out which CAP (capacitor) is good quality and which is not or defected.
See. This cap in range of 50 volts and according to table most be 20 mili ohms ESR.
But it is not. Its ESR is 2 times higher. So this cap is not proper for switching or AC.
Its quality is medium or even less. If using in some circuits, it may cause voltage drop or reduction.
.ﺣﺎﻻ ﺑﺎ ﺕﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ ﺟﺪول ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ ﺑﻔﻬﻤﻴﺪ ﮐﺪام ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎ ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ و ﮐﺪاﻣﻴﮏ ﻥﺎﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ یﺎ ﮐﻢ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ
:ﻥﮕﺎﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ
. ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ20 اهﻢ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ یﻌﻨﯽ.02 ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎESR وﻟﺖ ﻃﺒﻖ ﺟﺪول ﺑﺎﻻ ﺑﺎیﺪ50 ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن در داﻣﻨﻪ
.یﻌﻨﯽ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﺧﺎزن در ﺕﺼﻮیﺮ ﺑﺮای ﮐﺎر ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ ﻣﺘﻮﺳﻂ اﺳﺖ. ﺁن ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ دو ﺑﺮاﺑﺮ اﺳﺖESR اﻣﺎ ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ ﻥﺪارد و
.اﺣﺘﻤﺎﻻ در ﺷﺎرژر ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ اﻓﺖ وﻟﺘﺎژ ﺕﻮﻟﻴﺪ و ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ و راﻥﺪﻣﺎن ﮐﺎر را ﭘﺎﺋﻴﻦ ﻣﯽ ﺁورد.ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﻣﺘﻮﺳﻂ و ﺣﺘﯽ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد ﮔﻔﺖ ﮐﻤﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ
220µF, 25 volts CAP, according to ESR table most has 600 mili ohms ESR to call it good quality CAP.
In below picture you see it is 100 mili ohms ESR. It means this CAP(capacitor) is extremely high quality.
. ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ600 یﻌﻨﯽ.6 ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎESR وﻟﺘﯽ ﻃﺒﻖ ﺟﺪول ﺑﺎیﺪ25 ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد220 ﺧﺎزن
.یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن ﻓﻮق اﻟﻌﺎدﻩ ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ اﺳﺖ. ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ اﺳﺖ100 اهﻢ یﻌﻨﯽ.1 در ﺕﺼﻮیﺮ ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ
No error with meter. The exact value is 3.3 micro farads. I measured with commercial CAP meter.
Also this.
.ایﻦ هﻢ هﻤﻴﻨﻄﻮر
According to ESR table mentioned above, proper ESR for this CAP is 160 mili ohms but as you see
This CAP has lower ESR 18 mili ohms. It means this 1000 microfarads CAP is high quality and very good for
. ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ اﺳﺖ18 ﻣﻴﻠﯽ اهﻢ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ وﻟﯽ ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ160 ﻃﺒﻖ ﺟﺪول ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن ﺑﺎیﺪ
. اﺳﺖAC ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎرادی ﺑﯽ ﻥﻬﺎیﺖ ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﺑﺮای ﮐﺎر ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ و ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ و ﺟﺮیﺎن1000 یﻌﻨﯽ ایﻦ ﺧﺎزن
Finished. Device had made, adjusted and tested.
.ﺣﺎﻻ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻢ ﺧﺎزن هﺎ را ﺑﺮای ﮐﺎرهﺎی دﻗﻴﻖ و ﻣﻬﻢ دﺳﺘﻪ ﺑﻨﺪی ﮐﻨﻢ
I take two 47 micro farads and put them in parallel to have an 100 micro.
ﮔﺎهﯽ ﮐﻪ ﺧﺎزن ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﻣﻮرد ﻥﻴﺎز اﺳﺖ و در دﺳﺘﺮس ﻥﻴﺴﺖ ﺑﺮای ﭘﺎﺋﻴﻦ ﺁوردن ESRﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد دو ﺕﺎ ﺧﺎزن را ﻣﻮازی ﮐﺮد.
دو ﺕﺎ ﺧﺎزن 47ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد ﺑﺮﻣﯽ داریﻢ و ﻣﻮازی ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻴﻢ ﺕﺎ ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ ﺧﺎزن 100ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد ﺑﺴﺎزیﻢ.
اﻻن ﺧﺎزن ﻣﺎ ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ 50ﻣﻴﮑﺮو و یﮏ و دو دهﻢ اهﻢ اﺳﺖ .ﺑﻪ ESRدﻗﺖ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
As you see, ESR became half. approx 650 milli ohms.
If you check with ESR table you can see now we made one high quality low ESR 100 microfarad cap.
اﮔﺮ ﺑﻪ ﺟﺪول ﻥﮕﺎﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﻣﯽ ﺑﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ اﻻن ﻣﺎ یﮏ ﺧﺎزن 100ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﻓﺎراد 25وﻟﺘﯽ ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﺑﺎ ﮐﻴﻔﻴﺖ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﻴﻢ.
If put them in series, what happens?
Capacitance value decreases but ESR value increases and high ESR is not desirable. Please notice to ESR.
So remember if you want to put CAPs in series in switching circuits, consider ESR value raising.
. دﻗﺖ ﮐﻨﻴﺪESR ﺑﻪ. ﺑﺎﻻ ﻣﯽ رود ﮐﻪ ﻣﻄﻠﻮب ﻥﻴﺴﺖESR ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ ﮐﻢ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد و ایﻨﺒﺎر
. ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪESR ﭘﺲ یﺎدﺕﺎن ﺑﺎﺷﺪ اﮔﺮ ﺟﺎیﯽ در ﻣﺪار ﺳﻮﺋﻴﭽﻴﻨﮓ ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎ را ﺳﺮی ﮐﺮدیﺪ ﻣﺘﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﺎﻻ رﻓﺘﻦ
I have some high value CAPs. I thought if I put all in parallel, what value can I reach and this device will measure.
.ﺕﻌﺪادی ﺧﺎزن ﭘﺮﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ داﺷﺘﻢ ﮔﻔﺘﻢ ﺑﺒﻴﻨﻢ اﮔﺮ هﻤﻪ را ﺑﺎ هﻢ ﻣﻮازی ﮐﻨﻢ ﺕﺎ ﭼﻪ ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺘﯽ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻢ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻢ و ایﻦ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ اﻥﺪازﻩ ﻣﯽ ﮔﻴﺮد
I put them with some other values in parallel to see what happens.
For me it is excellent.
ﻇﺮﻓﻴﺖ اﺳﻤﯽ ﺧﺎزﻥﻬﺎ را ﺑﺎ هﻢ ﺟﻤﻊ ﮐﺮدم ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ 106,000ﺹﺪ و ﺷﺶ هﺰار ﻣﻴﮑﺮﻓﺎراد ﻣﯽ ﺷﺪ.
To adjust it accurately, I had to off and on it many times. Don't remember 8 or 10 times. So be patient.
At first when I didn't know how to adjust it. Once when I was trying to work with, I don't know what happened, all parameters
For adjustments in coeff section went up and increased highly. So I couldn't decrease them by keys. Therefore I reprogrammed
the micro control by programmer and did adjustments again.
If you faced this problem, do like me. But it rarely may happens.
POT R4 is better to use multi turn type. Because they are more accurate and by temperature change also humidity,
Their values do not change or at least change less. This is to prevent change in adjustment by time.
If you search the net, you can find some ESR tables around but you can not use any table for any ESR meter.
Each device has its own ESR table. Because ESR measured by frequency and it depends on that device to use what frequency
or what values. For this meter use ESR table in this article. Mentioned on a page above.
. ﺷﻤﺎ هﻢ ﺣﻮﺹﻠﻪ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ.ﺑﺮای ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ دﻗﻴﻖ ایﻦ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﻣﺠﺒﻮر ﺷﺪم هﺸﺖ یﺎ دﻩ ﺑﺎر وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را ﺧﺎﻣﻮش روﺷﻦ ﮐﻨﻢ
.اول ﮐﻪ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻤﺎت را درﺳﺖ ﺑﻠﺪ ﻥﺒﻮدم یﮏ ﺑﺎر ﻥﻤﯽ داﻥﻢ ﭼﻪ ﺷﺪ ﺟﻮری از ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﺧﺎرج ﺷﺪ ﮐﻪ ﭘﺎراﻣﺘﺮهﺎ ﻃﻮری ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﮐﺮدﻥﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺑﺎ ﮐﻠﻴﺪهﺎ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺷﺪ ﺁﻥﻬﺎ را ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ داد
.در ایﻦ ﺣﺎﻟﺖ ﻣﻴﮑﺮو را ﺑﺎ ﭘﺮوﮔﺮاﻣﺮ ﭘﺎک و دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﭘﺮوﮔﺮام ﮐﺮدم و دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﺮدم
.ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ و ﺧﺎزن ﻣﻘﻴﺎس را در ﺟﺎیﯽ ﻥﮕﻬﺪاری ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺕﺎ اﮔﺮ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﻻزم ﺷﺪ داﺷﺘﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ
. ﭘﻴﺪا ﮐﻨﻴﺪ اﻣﺎ ﻣﺘﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ ﻥﻤﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ از هﺮ ﺟﺪوﻟﯽ ﺑﺮای هﺮ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ای اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﮐﻨﻴﺪESR اﮔﺮ در ایﻨﺘﺮﻥﺖ ﺟﺴﺘﺠﻮ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ ﭼﻨﺪ ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ ﺟﺪول
. هﺮ ﭼﻨﺪ ﺑﻪ هﻢ ﻥﺰدیﮏ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ اﻣﺎ هﺮ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ای ﺟﺪول ﺧﻮدش را دارد.ﺑﺮای ایﻨﮑﻪ ایﻦ ﺟﺪاول ﺑﺮاﺳﺎس ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻥﺲ و ﻗﻄﻌﺎت هﻤﺎن دﺳﺘﮕﺎﻩ ﺕﻬﻴﻪ ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮﻥﺪ
ﭼﻮن ﻥﻤﻮﻥﻪ هﺎی ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ ﻥﻪ ﺕﻨﻬﺎ دﻗﻴﻖ ﻥﻴﺴﺘﻨﺪ ﺑﻠﮑﻪ ﺑﺎ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ دﻣﺎ و رﻃﻮﺑﺖ ﻣﻘﺪار ﺁﻥﻬﺎ ﺕﻐﻴﻴﺮ. ﻋﻮض ﺷﻮدmulti turn ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ ﺑﺎ ﻥﻮع ﻣﻮﻟﺘﯽ ﺕﺮنR4 ﭘﺘﺎﻥﺴﻴﻮﻣﺘﺮ
.ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ و ایﻦ یﻌﻨﯽ از ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﺧﺎرج ﺷﺪن ﻣﺪار
One you tuned accurately, it does not need to adjust it any time when you use but check the device
By exact resistors frequently to see device condition and its accuracy.
Power consumption is approx 20 or 30 milli amperes. So with 2 common 9 volts batteries it will work several months.
یﮏ ﺑﺎر ﮐﻪ دﻗﻴﻖ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﺮدیﺪ دیﮕﺮ اﺣﺘﻴﺎﺟﯽ ﺑﻪ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﻥﺪارد وﻟﯽ ﮔﺎهﯽ ﺑﺎ ﺁن ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺘﻬﺎ و ﺧﺎزن ﻣﻘﻴﺎس وﺳﻴﻠﻪ را اﻣﺘﺤﺎن ﮐﻨﻴﺪ ﺑﺒﻴﻨﻴﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ هﻨﻮز هﻢ دﻗﻴﻖ ﻣﺎﻥﺪﻩ یﺎ ﺑﻪ
ﻣﻘﺪاری ﮐﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮﻩ ﺷﺪن)ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ( ﻣﺠﺪد اﺣﺘﻴﺎج دارد.
ﻣﺼﺮف ﺟﺮیﺎن ایﻦ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ ﺕﻘﺮیﺒﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ 20ﺕﺎ 30ﻣﻴﻠﯽ ﺁﻣﭙﺮ اﺳﺖ.ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﺑﺎ دو ﻋﺪد ﺑﺎﺕﺮی ﮐﺘﺎﺑﯽ 9وﻟﺘﯽ ﻣﺪﺕﻬﺎ ﮐﺎر ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﺪ.ﺷﺎیﺪ ﭼﻨﺪیﻦ ﻣﺎﻩ.
اﻣﺎ ﺑﺎﺕﺮی ﺳﺎﻟﻢ ﻣﺴﻠﻤﺎ در ﻥﺘﻴﺠﻪ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺑﻬﺘﺮ اﺳﺖ.ﻗﺒﻞ از ﮐﺎر ﮐﺮدن ﺑﺎ وﺳﻴﻠﻪ از وﻟﺘﺎژ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺑﺎﺕﺮیﻬﺎ ﻣﻄﻤﺌﻦ ﺷﻮیﺪ.
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Important:
I want to inform you that, I was not and I am not member of any webpage or forums. Neither in my country (iran), nor other
countries. No where.
If (emphasis on if), somewhere on the net , someone introduced himself "behnam", that is not me and I don't have
Any relation with him. This is just due to similarity between names.
Corresponding with me just possible via my emails and I do not have any friend or representative or partner.
So, be aware of claims. I informed you just for safety. nothing more.
ﻣﺤﻞ ﻓﻌﺎﻟﻴﺖ ﻣﻦ ﻓﻘﻂ در وﺑﻼگ ﺧﻮدم هﺴﺖ و اﮔﺮ در ﺟﺎیﯽ در ﺧﺼﻮص ﻣﻘﺎﻻت در وب ﺳﺎیﺖ یﺎ اﻥﺠﻤﻨﯽ ﺷﺨﺼﯽ ﺧﻮد را ﺑﻬﻨﺎم ﻣﻌﺮﻓﯽ ﮐﺮدﻩ
.دوﺑﺎرﻩ ﺕﺎﮐﻴﺪ ﻣﯽ ﮐﻨﻢ ﮐﻪ در هﻴﭻ ﮐﺠﺎ در ایﻨﺘﺮﻥﺖ ﻋﻀﻮ ﻥﻴﺴﺘﻢ و از ﻣﻦ ﺷﻤﺎرﻩ ﺕﻠﻔﻦ یﺎ ﺁدرﺳﯽ وﺟﻮد ﻥﺪارد
.ارﺕﺒﺎط ﺑﺎ ﻣﻦ ﻓﻘﻂ از ﻃﺮیﻖ ایﻤﻴﻞ ﮐﻪ در هﻤﻴﻦ ﻣﻘﺎﻟﻪ ﻣﻮﺟﻮد اﺳﺖ اﻣﮑﺎن دارد و ﻣﻦ هﻴﭻ ﺷﺮیﮏ یﺎ دوﺳﺖ یﺎ هﻤﮑﺎر یﺎ ﻥﻤﺎیﻨﺪﻩ در ایﺮان یﺎ ﺧﺎرج از ﮐﺸﻮر ﻥﺪارم
ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮایﻦ ﻣﺮاﻗﺐ ادﻋﺎی اﻓﺮاد ﺑﺎﺷﻴﺪ.ﻓﻘﻂ ﺑﺮای اﻃﻼع و ﺟﻠﻮﮔﻴﺮی ﺳﻮء اﺳﺘﻔﺎدﻩ ﺑﻮﺳﻴﻠﻪ اﻓﺮاد ﻣﺨﺮب و ﺷﻴﺎد و ﻋﺪم ﺧﺴﺎرت و ﺹﺪﻣﻪ ﺑﻪ ﺷﻤﺎ ﺑﻴﺎن ﺷﺪ.
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ﺕﻤﺎﻣﯽ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت ایﻦ ﮐﺎردﺳﺘﯽ در هﻤﻪ ﺟﺎ ﭘﻴﺪا ﻣﯽ ﺷﻮد و ﮐﺎﻣﻼ ﻣﻌﻤﻮﻟﯽ و رایﺞ هﺴﺘﻨﺪ.
-1ﺧﻴﺎﺑﺎن ﻣﺸﻴﺮ ﻓﺎﻃﻤﯽ -ﭘﺎﺳﺎژ ﻗﺎﺋﻢ ﻃﺒﻘﻪ ﺑﺎﻻ -ایﺮان ﺁﺳﺎ و ایﺮان ﻣﺪال )دو ﻣﻐﺎزﻩ(
-3ﺧﻴﺎﺑﺎن ﻟﻄﻔﻌﻠﯽ ﺧﺎن زﻥﺪ -ﭼﻬﺎرراﻩ ﻣﺸﻴﺮ -ﺳﻪ راﻩ اﻥﻮری -ﭘﺎﺳﺎژ وﺣﺪت ﻃﺒﻘﻪ ﺑﺎﻻ -ﻣﻴﮑﺮو اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻥﻴﮏ
-4ﺧﻴﺎﺑﺎن ﻟﻄﻔﻌﻠﯽ ﺧﺎن زﻥﺪ – روﺑﺮوی ﺳﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﺷﻴﺮاز – ﭘﺎﺳﺎژ زﻣﺎﻥﯽ – ﻃﺒﻘﻪ هﻤﮑﻒ – ایﺮان ﺁیﺴﯽ
www.ir‐ic.mihanblog.com
از ﻃﺮیﻖ ﭘﺴﺖ ﺑﺮای ﺳﺮاﺳﺮ ایﺮان هﻢ ﻣﯽ ﺕﻮاﻥﻴﺪ هﺮ ﻗﻄﻌﻪ ای را ﺕﻬﻴﻪ ﮐﻨﻴﺪ:
www.dspic.ir
www.elcshop.ir
www.javanelec.com
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Free to download.
felezyab@yahoo.com
or
behnamvp@gmail.com
http://www.4shared.com/dir/21118950/250a0168/sharing.html
My weblog:
www.felezyab.persianblog.ir
It is available to download in my shared folder in homemade ESR meter subfolder on 4shared.com
دو ﻓﻴﻠﻢ ﮐﻮﺕﺎﻩ ﺑﺮای اﻃﻤﻴﻨﺎن داﻥﺶ ﺁﻣﻮزان ﮐﻪ ﺑﺮای ﮐﻢ ﺣﺠﻢ ﺷﺪن ﺑﻪ ﻓﺮﻣﺖ WMVﺕﺒﺪیﻞ ﺷﺪﻩ.
یﮑﯽ ﻃﺮز ﮐﺎر را ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ و دیﮕﺮی ﻥﺤﻮﻩ ﺕﻨﻈﻴﻢ ﮐﺮدن اﻟﺒﺘﻪ ﺑﻄﻮر ﻣﺜﺎﻟﯽ.
ﺑﺮای ﺕﻤﺎﺷﺎی ﺁن ﺑﻪ ﺑﺮﻥﺎﻣﻪ ﺧﺎﺹﯽ ﻥﻴﺎز ﻥﺪاریﺪ .ﺧﻮد ویﻨﺪوز ﻥﺸﺎن ﻣﯽ دهﺪ .ﻓﻴﻠﻢ و ﻓﺎیﻠﻬﺎی ﻃﺮز ﺳﺎﺧﺖ ﺑﺮای داﻥﻠﻮد در وﺑﻼگ ﻣﻮﺟﻮد اﺳﺖ.
ﻣﻘﺎﻻت و ﮐﺎردﺳﺘﯽ هﺎی اراﺋﻪ ﺷﺪﻩ ﻗﺒﻠﯽ و ﻣﻮﺟﻮد در وﺑﻼگ ﺗﺎ ﻗﺒﻞ از ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ 20ﺁﺑﺎن :1390
ﻣﯽ ﺗﻮاﻧﻴﺪ ﺑﻪ وﺑﻼگ رﻓﺘﻪ در ﻗﺴﻤﺖ ﺁرﺷﻴﻮ ﻳﺎ در ﻗﺴﻤﺖ ﻋﻨﺎوﻳﻦ وﺑﻼگ ﻣﻮﺿﻮع دﻝﺨﻮاﻩ را ﭘﻴﺪا و داﻧﻠﻮد ﮐﻨﻴﺪ.
« ﺟﻤﻌﻪ ١١ﺷﻬﺮﯾﻮر :: ١٣٩٠ﮐﺎردﺳﺘﯽ ﺑﻴﺴﺖ و ﯾﮑﻢ -ﺗﺴﺘﺮ ﯾﺎ ﺁزﻣﺎﯾﺶ ﮐﻨﻨﺪﻩ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت اﻟﮑﺘﺮوﻧﻴﮏ و ﺷﻨﺎﺳﺎﺋﯽ ﺁﻧﻬﺎ
« دوﺷﻨﺒﻪ ٢٩ﻓﺮوردﯾﻦ :: ١٣٩٠ﮐﺎردﺳﺘﯽ ﻧﻮزدﻩ ام -ﻣﻮﻟﺪ ﻣﻮج ﯾﺎ ﻓﺎﻧﮑﺸﻦ ژﻧﺮاﺗﻮر ﺑﺎ ﺁﯾﺴﯽ XR2206
« ﺟﻤﻌﻪ ٢٠اﺳﻔﻨﺪ :: ١٣٨٩ﻣﻘﺎﻟﻪ ﭘﻨﺠﻢ -ﭼﮕﻮﻧﻪ ﺷﺎرژر ﮐﺎﻣﭙﻴﻮﺗﺮ ﻟﭗ ﺗﺎپ ﯾﺎ ﻣﺸﺎﺑﻪ را ﺗﻌﻤﻴﻴﺮ ﮐﻨﻴﻢ.
« ﺟﻤﻌﻪ ٢٢ﺑﻬﻤﻦ :: ١٣٨٩ﮐﺎردﺳﺘﯽ هﺠﺪﻩ ام -ﻓﺮﮐﺎﻧﺲ ﻣﺘﺮ دﯾﺠﻴﺘﺎل ﺑﺴﻴﺎر ﺳﺎدﻩ ﺑﺎ ﻣﻴﮑﺮوﮐﻨﺘﺮل ﺗﺎ 40ﻣﮕﺎهﺮﺗﺰ
« دوﺷﻨﺒﻪ ١٤ﺗﻴﺮ :: ١٣٨٩ﺟﻮاب ﺳﻮال درﺑﺎرﻩ ﻋﻤﻖ ﮐﺎوش و ﺣﺴﺎﺳﻴﺖ ﻓﻠﺰﯾﺎب clone pi
« ﺳﻪ ﺷﻨﺒﻪ ٢٥ﺧﺮداد :: ١٣٨٩ﺟﻮاب ﺑﻪ ﺳﻮال درﺑﺎرﻩ ﺟﺎﯾﮕﺰﯾﻨﯽ و ﻣﺸﺎﺑﻪ ﻗﻄﻌﻪ MCP3201در ﻓﻠﺰﯾﺎب clone pi