SERVICING

The design of this ice maker allows all of the components to be tested without removing the ice maker or moving the
refrigerator away from the wall to access the water valve.

Remove the cover and you will see the test points identified on the module.

N =Neutral side of line

M Motor connection

H Heater connection

T= Thermostat connection

L = Ll side of line

V =Water valve connection

The test holes are identified as "N," "M," , "V," etc.

TEST PROCEDURES

Ice Maker Plugged In To Power, Shut-Off Arm Down-Freezer Cold

Test points L & N will verify 120 volts to Ice Maker module.

(Make sure your test probes go into the test points 1/2".)

Test points T & H will verify if the bimetal thermostat is open or closed.

Short T & H with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) to run the motor. If the motor doesn't run, replace the module
assembly.

If you leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution, you can feel the heater in the mold heat up..if it's good.

Remove the jumper and the water valve will be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Only one revolution is possible with the cover on due to a stop molded on cover.
WATER FILL ADJUSTMENT

Turning the water level adjustment screw will move the contact in its relationship with the contact ring segment. This

causes the contact to vary the time that the water valve is energized, since the contact ring is tapered at the end of the
fill time.

1 full turn will affect fill by 40cc. 1/2 turn varies the fill by 20cc.

Some Ice Makers May have knob, Turning the knob or screw clockwise decreases fill; counterclockwise increases the fill
amount.

If water valve adjustment screw falls out, just put it back in and align the hole in the hole as shown.

How to cycle the I/M

Cycle the I/M using an insulated piece of wire. Bend the wire into a U shape so that one end of it will fit in the "H" hole
in the module and the other in the "T", insert the wire or clip, the I/M should start to go around. Wait about 2 or 3
seconds or until you here a small click, and remove the clip or wire. The I/M should continue on around. If it doesn't you
may have removed the clip too soon. the ejector arms will be going around and will stop at 2 o'clock. The fill portion of
this cycle is from about 12 o'clock position to 2 o'clock position. It should fill with water during this portion of the cycle.

PROBLEM POSSIBLE SOLUTION

No Water In I/M Mold Defrost fill tube
Fill Tube Frozen Up
Check water supply valve to I/M water inlet
Fill Tube Frozen Up valve, if normal 1/2" angle stop or shut off
suspect water inlet valve.(#20 Above
Image)

If 1/4" saddle type valve (Click for Photo)

supplies water to inlet valve #20 Above
Check saddle valve for mineral build up.
If saddle valve is "self piercing type" (it
punctures the tubing when you install it) &
is not a drill type (you must drill a 1/4" hole
 in pipe when you install it), replace the
valve with a drill type.

Freezer temperature set too cold, set to

normal temperatures

Water Filter stopped up

No Water In I/M Mold Check water inlet valve coil with ohm Ice Maker Water Inlet Valve
meter for continuity Check for Continuity
Fill Tube Not Frozen Up This Valve Gets 110 volts for 7 to 10
Check Water Supply valve to I/M water seconds via the Ice Maker to fill the Ice
inlet valve. Maker with water.

Check mold heater for continuity

Heater Should Ohm out at around 72

ohms, Note: it's either good or bad, i.e. it
either has continuity or not.

Cycle I/M check for 110 volts to water

inlet valve during momentary fill cycle via
I/M module.
No 110 ?...heater or module
Yes 110 ?....water inlet valve or supply
valve.
Note: we do not recommend taking these
valves apart and cleaning them as they
usually will leak if you do this and you also
take the risk of the valve sticking in the
open position and flooding your house. The
diaphragms in these valve swell over time
and become deteriorated, not letting enough
water in.

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge


Water in I/M but doesn't cycle.
Black Specs in Ice Cubes
I/M leaks water in freezer or bucket.
I/M Thermostat
Wiring Harness
I/M Shut Off Arm in wrong position
IM Shut Off Arm has come out of module
I/M Module
Coating Coming off of mold
Coating on mold coming off causing unit
to leak
I/M filling too long
Unit making hollow ice cubes
Note: Sample Picture. Does not apply to all
Models or brands
Note: we do not recommend taking these
valves apart and cleaning them as they
usually will leak if you do this and you also
take the risk of the valve sticking in the
open position and flooding your house. The
diaphragms in these valve swell over time
and become deteriorated, not letting enough
water in.
Ice Maker Module
using an ohm meter check thermostat for
continuity if cold enough
Check for voltage to I/M at harness
Check Arm for proper position
Put arm back in module
If thermostat is good, cycle I/M if no cycle
and all else is ok, replace module
Replace I/M Mold #1 above (also
Order Cement Alumilastic)
Replace I/M Mold #1 above (also
Order Cement Alumilastic)
Cycle I/M should give 7.5 seconds of fill, if
too long replace module.
Check water supply valve to I/M water inlet
valve, if normal 1/2" angle stop or shut off
suspect water inlet valve.(#20 Above
Image)
If 1/4" saddle type valve (Click for Photo)
supplies water to inlet valve #20 Above
Check saddle valve for mineral build up.
If saddle valve is "self piercing type" (it
punctures the tubing when you install it) &

Unit making hollow ice cubes
Water Dispenser Not Working
Poor water pressure to I/M
Check the water supply to the water inlet
valve.
Check the water filter. ( if applicable)
Check the water inlet valve
Make sure the Temperatures in the
Fresh food section and the freezer
sections are normal. 33 to 42 in the Fresh
Food section and 0 to 10 in the freezer. Or
check that the controls, both the fresh food
and freezer section controls are set on the
"normal" settings. If the controls are set
too cold it will cause the water tank or
tubing to freeze.
Dispenser switch not working, check for
continuity
is not a drill type (you must drill a 1/4" hole
in pipe when you install it), replace the
valve with a drill type.
Check water supply valve to I/M water inlet
valve, if normal 1/2" angle stop or shut off
suspect water inlet valve.(#20 Above
Image)
If 1/4" saddle type valve (Click for Photo)
supplies water to inlet valve #20 Above
Check saddle valve for mineral build up.
If saddle valve is "self piercing type" (it
punctures the tubing when you install it) &
is not a drill type (you must drill a 1/4" hole
in pipe when you install it), replace the
valve with a drill type.
Dual Water Valve
One side of this valve does the water
in the door, the other the water for
the ice maker