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Quality
Assurance
Department
Index
1. Definition of Quality
2. Definition of Quality Control (QC)
3. Definition of Quality Inspection (QI)
4. Definition of Quality Assurance (QA)
5. Quality Organogram of Department
6. Jobs Responsibility
7. Four (4) point System
8. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
9. Fabrics Delivery Approval Authority procedure
10. Quality Policy
11. Process Flow Chart of Quality
12. Online Inspection
13. Fleece Fabrics Inspection
14. Sueded Fabrics Inspection
15. Print (AOP) Fabrics Inspection
16. Yarn dyed Inspection
17. Table Inspection
18. Inspection Machine
19. Compactor Machine Inspection
20. Hand folding
21. Grey Fabrics Inspection
22. Knitting Online Inspection
23. Shade Check Procedure
24. Running Shade check
25. GSM Checking Procedure
26. Shrinkage Correction
27. GSM Correction
28. Sample Procedure
29. Buyer wise Testing Requirement
30. Buyer wise File Keeping procedure
31. Quality Related Shortcut
Page 3 of 87 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
4|P ag e Quality Assurance Department
f~wgKv (Introduction)t
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gvb‡K AvKl©bxq K‡i Zzj‡Z, ¸bv¸Y cwieZ©b K‡i, wek¦ evRvi G ¯^í Li‡P,
¯^í mg‡q, AvKl©bxq c‡Y¨i cwiPq m„wó Kiv| “Better Quality &
Higher productivity” Ges ‡µZvi g‡bv‡hvM e„w× Kiv, G ‡ÿ‡Î ˆPwZ
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Dcjãx Ki‡Z cvi‡e Ges wek¦ A_©bxwZ‡Z ¯^Kxq c‡Y¨i ¸bv¸b I wek¦ evRv‡ii
P¨v‡jÄ †gvKv‡ejvq ˆPwZ †Kv¤úwRU wjt AMÖbx f~wgKv ivL‡Z, ‡Kvqv‡jwU
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Managing Director
Director
AGM
Data Entry-1
Asst Manager (QAD) AGM (Qality & Product Development) AGM (Admin) GM (Fabrics) Director Approvered
Job Responsibility:
Md Mizanur Rahman- AGM (Quality & Product
Development)
1. Planning & Monitoring of Production Target.
2. Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting
& reviewing the result.
3. Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules &Regulation in
Department.
4. Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner.
5. Give a continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others
for target fabric specification.
6. Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC.
7. Give the full support the Research & Development
Department.
8. Make a continuous study of work improvement & give report to
the higher authority.
9. Response & act in the customer complain & query.
10. Ensure that all safety followed by the team.
11. Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department.
12. Enthusiastic to wastage utilization.
13. Optimize Manpower Utilization.
14. Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan.
15. Skill Development in the Floor.
16. Ensure that all Lab test Report (Physical) are recorded.
17. Follow the concept of Top Management.
18. Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time
to time.
19. Co-ordination with all departments all quality parameter
inform time to time all department.
20. Check the hold fabric & give decision quickly.
Definition of 4 Point:
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wef³ K‡i †kÖbx‡Z iæcvšÍi Kiv †K eySvq |
Procedure of Four Point System:
1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.
2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the
inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.
3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric over
the inspection table.
4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.
5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric (meter/yard).
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 9 inch 4
1 or less 2
Over 1 inch 4
Example:
Fabric width
1m/yd
If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are
considered “first” quality and as an Acceptance criteria.
If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are
considered “second”.
Example:
A fabric roll 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the
following defects: -
6 defects up to 3 inch- ................................... 6 X 1 = 6 points
5 defects over 3 inch but less 6 inch- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points
2 defects over 6 inch but less 9 inch- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points
1 defects over 9 inch- .................................... 1 X 4 = 4 points
1 hole over 1 inch dimensions- ....................... 1 X 4 = 4 points
………………………………………………………………………………………
Total defect points................................................= 30 points
Therefore,
30 X 36
= ……………………… X 100
130 X 45
= 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square. ) So, the roll is
accepted.
Hole Roll No# 1-10 11-20 21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 71-80 81-90 91-100 Pts/Yds Pts/100 Yds Class Remarks
1 100
2 100
3 100
4 100
5 100
6 100
7 100
8 100
9 100
10 100
11 100
12 100
13 100
14 100
15 100
16 100
17 100
18 100
19 100
20 100
21 100
22 100
23 100
24 100
25 100
Penalty Points Legend: Faulty Appearance: Four- Points System: Acceptance calculation:
H= Hole R= Rub Mark CR= Crease Mark DC= Dead Cotton Size of Defec t Penalty FORMULA: Classific ation:
OS=Oil Stain DS= Dye Stain P= Patc hes MS= Mac hine Stoppage 3 inc hes or Less 1 Points A/BX100=Points per 100 Yards <40 pts =A
CS=Chem Stain D= Dirty HR= Hairy BW= Bowing Over 3 but not over 6 2 Points Here, A=Total Points of this roll 41- 60 pts =B
RS= Rust Stain W/S=Wrong Slitting N/L= Needle Line US= Uneven Shade Over 6 but not over 9 3 Points B=Length of this roll in Yards 61- 80 pts =C
W= Water spot BR= Barrre Mark NP= Neps Over 9 inc hes 4 Points 1 Miter=1.09 (Yards) 80 Above = Rejec t
CT= Contamination CM= Crampled Mark
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Page 19 of 87 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
20 | P a g e Quality Assurance Department
D‡Ïk¨: †µZvi Pvwn`v eySv Ges DbœZ gv‡bi †cvkvK ˆZixi gva¨‡g
Zvnv‡`i Pvwn`v c~iY Kiv|
Policy:-
1. To build up a long lasting better Relationship with buyer by fulfilling
the their demands
cÖwkÿ‡Yi gva¨‡g Kgx©‡`i `ÿZv e„w× Kiv Ges Kv‡Ri g~j¨vqb Kiv|
Re-process Dyeing
Stenter M/c
Shade uneven
Not OK Spot, Hairiness,
Hand feel
Lab Test
Shrinkage, Fastness &
Others
OK
Compacting
Shade Continuity
Less Wastage
Less Re work
Few Reject Lower Cost
Less Backlog High Productivity
Few Complaints
Few Returns
Quality Inspection
Inspection
Indicate of Fault
Remove of Fault
Inform must be concern person
Compact & Inspection M/c before starting Ensure the below issue-
1. Shade
2. Running shade
3. Dia ±
4. GSM ±
5. Enzyme Dust
6. Hairiness
7. Shrinkage
8. Spirality
9. Bowing
10. Angle
11. Any Measurable issue, Stripe & print
12. Accessories available with match (Rib, Collar & Cuff)
Any problem first take decision then started m/c otherwise hold
Knitting Online QC
1. Batch Card Check
a) Yarn lot
b) Yarn Count
c) Buyer Name
d) Stitch Length Cross Check
e) GSM Check
f) Yarn Brand Check- Combed/Carded
2. Fabric Quality
a) Loop
b) Needle Brocken/ Mark
c) Sinker Mark
d) Count/Lot Mix
e) Oil Sport/ Mark
f) Set off
g) Contra- Fly/Yarn
h) Lycra Out
Bowing is the measurement of the bowing arc at the highest point of a line at right angles
Between the two selvages.
A Bow depth
Fabric width
Skewing/Twisting:
Skewing/Twisting is the measurement of the highest point between a weft thread/row and a
line at right angles between the two selvages/folds.
Skew depth -A
Fabric width
Tolerance Calculation
A
____________ x 100 = Max %
Cuttable width
Solid colours/Prints 3% 5%
Stripes/Checks 2% 4%
Exception:
Skewing are characteristics for woven twill/satin constructions and for single jersey.
The skewing
Rolls tolerance
exceeding must
these thereforehave
tolerances be agreed
failed.on each order separately, and stated on the
“Fabric Technical Data”. The H&M garment supplier must first check twisting and eventual
Distortion on garment after:
•Eventual garment treatment.
•Washing according to care instruction.
In case of Inconsistent skewing/twisting in-between inspected rolls the inspection has failed.
used.
For heavy knit the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches, in
order to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting, recorded with
order number, date, dye lot and family number, weight, and planned country.
At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30
cm/6” full width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the light
box against:
o Colour Standard
o Approved fabric
o Fabric Technical Data
o Side to side
o Side-centre-side
o Beginning-end
Standard is Standard
Previously bulk fabric was evaluated against approved l/d. The effect of this was that the
colour difference between two orders could be very big, and very obvious to our customers,
see sketch below.
NOT OK
In order to get an acceptable colour match between products, the standard has to be kept
as standard throughout the production chain. Thus standard to lab dip DE<1.0, and
standard to production (dye lot) DE<1.0. Always keep the standard as the standard.
Colour evaluation requires a tolerance of DE<1.0 within the same shade family.
We do not accept shades from opposite shade family within one order quantity.
We do not accept opposite shade families within one order to be packed
country wise.
It is of high importance that shades that already are within the DE<1.0
tolerance also have a close visual match to the standard. Always keep the
standard as the standard.
All shades must be within the tolerance of DE<1.0, and within the same shade
family.
Tolerances: Close critical match to standard in TL830 and D65 and not display a dramatic
difference in colour appearance in A-light (tungsten).
Blue
Worm
0.7-1.0
Blue Green
Blue Red
0-0.69
Green Red
DE˂ 1.0
Yellow Green
Yellow Red
Yellow
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At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric
inspection, cut a 30 cm/6” full
Width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the
light box against:
•Colour Standard
•Approved fabric
•Fabric Technical Data
If difference is more then 4-5 on the grey scale between any parts,
the H&M local office must be contacted.
• Check weight on minimum 10% of the rolls chosen for inspection.
•Weigh a 100 cm² cutting; convert the weight into m²/yd².
•Weight should correspond to weight stated on Fabric Technical Data.
If the deviation is more than -5% / +7% the roll has failed.
Cuttable width-
Splice-
Minimum splice length is 30 m/yds.
Splice location must be noted on the individual roll inspection report.
4 penalty points will be assigned for each splice/join.
Roll is allowed to contain more than 1 splice/join.
Fabric odours –
Roll that emit an unpleasant odour, has failed.
Utilize in Cutting-
a) Block / Group Cutting that means Back Font & Sleeve with Piping
same place
b) Take Leveling wash from dyeing
Shrinkage Issue-
1. Standard Acceptable level 5% Minuses & 2% Plus But Customer
wise Separate Requirement So should be follow Customer
Quality Standard
2. Mainly Length 3-4 % Minuses, Width 6-7 % Allowed total 10%
Minuses
3. If not possible to Shrinkage Control within tolerance then
infirm to Related Department
4. If any Batch Delivered without tolerance must be infirm
Cutting department for Pattern Adjustment
Shrinkage Correction-
1. Out of Tolerance Need Re-stenter Or Compactor
2. After Compact if we got Shrinkage Fail Need Re-compaction or
Last Process Tumble Dryer
3. If length More Like this problem must re-stenter
4. If Width More like this problem Tumble Dryer we can solve
GSM Correction-
Impotent Sample
1. Counter Sample
2. PP Sample (Pre-production)
3. Inline
4. Quotation Sample
5. Photo Sample
6. Development Sample
7. Yarn Test
8. Color Sample
9. First Fit Sample
10. Chemical Test
11. Style Sample
12. Knitting Sample
13. FTD (Fabrics Technical Data) Sample
14. Fashion Show Sample
15. Testing Sample
Responsibility of GPQ
A. Sample Stage
1. Risk assessment with QA, Sample & chemical responsible
2. Coordinate to ensure feasible bulk production
3. Take FTD & required specification hand over from sample responsible
4. Match Counter Sample (c/s) with approved FTD Hanger
5. Coordinate of lab dip approval
6. Collect sample processing data from sample responsible
7. Check sample fabric color/shade required quality & physical (test)
performance
B. Bulk Stage-
1. In pre-production (PP) meeting share sample SOP with all
production concerns
2. Secure raw materials (Yarn, Fabrics, elastic) meet required quality
before bulk
3. Ensure FTD vs Bulk, sample vs bulk
4. Maintain proper documentations of all production & quality data,
Hardcopy & computer data basis
5. Check 1st to last dye lot with color standard, approval LD, C/S FTD
hanger & ensure consistency
6. Validate test reports, inspection reports, GSM continuity & color
continuity & all quality parameter “roll to roll” & “Batch to Batch”
prior delivery to cutting
7. Provide a validation certificate based on quality check list prior
delivery
8. Coordinate with RQS team for any major issue
9. Ensure the finished fabrics that don’t meet H&M requirements &
standards will not be delivered to cutting by anyway.
Note: CN-China , N.M.C-No major Change, T/D-Tumble dry, L/D-Line dry, N/A- Not Applicable, HK-Hongkong, B.C-BayCity, kpa- Kilo pascale
13. FTD
14. Knitting Data
15. Grieg Swatch
16. Dyeing Recipe
17. Program Route
18. Finishing parameter
19. Test Report
20. Inspection Report
21. Uster Report
22. Yarn Test Report
23. Booking Sheet
24. Summary Sheet
1. Booking Sheet
2. Order Sheet
3. Rick Assessment Sheet
4. Counter Sample comments copy
5. FTD Sample Comments copy
6. Inspection Report (4 Points)
7. Packing List
8. GPQ Certificate
9. Lab Test Report
10. Summary sheet
1. H&M
2. Hema
3. Lidl Hong Kong
4. Bay City (Lidl)
5. Golden Penny
6. Primark
Power Swatch on
Set RPM
Set Light
Grey Inspection:
2. Knitting Production
3. Inspection, 4 Point System
4. More than 28 points Reject
5. Major Problem Discuses with QAD Head
6. Keep Record in GPQ File
myZvi UzBó :
Testing Requirement:
1. Color Fastness
a. Wash - Color Change
- Staining
- Cross Staining
b. Water
c. Rubbing
d. Perspiration- Acid (Ladies)
- Alkali (Boys)
e. Sea Water
f. Sublimation
g. Light Fastness
h. Sun test
i. Saliva
2. Physical test
a. Pilling – Martaindals
- ICI Box
b. Snagging Resistance
Page 76 of 87 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
77 | P a g e Quality Assurance Department
c. Stretch Recovery
d. Busting Strength
3. Dimensional Stability
- Washing
- Dry Cleaning
- Dry Steam
a. Shrinkage
b. Spirality
c. Twisting
d. Skewness/ Bowing
4. Kids Item
a. APEO/AP (Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates)
b. Formaldehyde
c. Phenal
d. pH
5. Chemical test
a. Phenolic yellowing(White &
Mélange)
b. Composition/Fiber Content (CVC, PC, Lycra)
Page 77 of 87 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb, Bw_Iwcqv, Chaity Composite Ltd
78 | P a g e Quality Assurance Department
Fabrics Consumption-
1. Body length + Sleeve length + 10 Cm
(Folding, Sleeve & Bottom) x (Chest +
4CM)x2 ÷ 10,000 X GSM
÷1000x12x10%(Wastage = KG/Dozen
(LengthxChestx2÷10,000xGSM÷1000x
12+15%)
2. (Length x Chest x 2 ÷ 1550 X
GSM÷1000x12+15%)
3. Weight X 1550 ÷ Width ÷ GSM X 1000
÷ 36 = Yards
4. Wight ÷ Width ÷ Length X 10,000 =
GSM
5. Length X Width ÷ 10,000 X GSM =
Wight
6. Needle Count= Dia x Gauge x ¶ (3.14)
7. Yarn Count Check= o.oo5905xyarn
length (CM)/ Wight
8. Here,- 1 Meter = 39.37 inch
= 100 CM
= 1000 MM
1 inch = 2.54 CM
1 CM = 10 MM
1 KG = 1000 Grams
= 2.2046 LBS
1550 = 39.37 x 39.37
10,000 = 100 x 100
X Don’t wash
2. Bleaching only in Cold water
CL Bleaching only in cold water
X Don’t Bleach
3. Ironing-
Iron at max 110®c Temperature
5. Drying-
High temperature
Don’t tumble
Spread to dry
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Reference:
1. Experience
2. H&M Color Guide Book & Quality Manual
3. Internet
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