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CHAPTER XIII
TEXTILES RESEARCH
ASSOCIATIONS (TRAs) &
THE TEXTILES COMMITTEE
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CHAPTER XIII
TEXTILES RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS (TRAs) &
THE TEXTILES COMMITTEE
T
here are eight Textiles Research
Associations (TRAs) receiving Performance
financial support from the Ministry
of Textiles, of these the following are the ATIRA worked on about 20 Research &
Cotton Textiles Research Associations Development (R&D) projects, of which 17
(CTRAs): were completed. In addition, need based
consultancy was provided to the mills. The
(1) Ahmedabad Textiles Industry’s accredited cotton testing services of ATIRA
Research Association(ATIRA), were in very high demand during the year
Ahmedabad due to ever rising international demand
for Indian cotton and general awareness
(2) Bombay Textiles ResearchAssociation about the quality. Nearly 30,000 samples
(BTRA), Mumbai. of cotton were tested for various
parameters for various clients.
(3) South India Textiles Research
Association (SITRA), Coimbatore Other important glimpses
(4) Northern India Textiles Research (i) ATIRA scientists visited 79 units,
paid 180 visits during the year for
Association (NITRA), Ghaziabad.
consultancy and project work, and
Like other TRAs, these TRAs are textile prepared 116 reports for various units
which sought ATIRA consultancy
industry promoted private bodies, set
services.
up and promoted by the textiles industry
of the respective region to carry out (ii) In all, 35,084 different samples were
research and provide them various tested at ATIRA, Ahmedabad, and
services including consultancy, testing, 1438 at ATIRA Regional Centre at
training and research, etc. Their main Indore.
sources of earnings include Government
(iii) ATIRA calibration laboratory took up
grants, subscriptions from member-mills,
600 calibration assignments during
fees from the services etc. Since these the year, covering 4800 instruments
have renowned industrialists as their from textile and other industries.
elected Chairmen in overall in-charge of
their functions, Government provides full (iv) ATIRA training programmes were in
autonomy in their functioning. good demand during the year. In all,
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325 mills sponsored their staff for the (a) Development of antistatic and
122 ATIRA training programmes. 2,256 antibacterial fabrics using novel
trainees participated. Additionally, 510 materials
powerlooms workers/jobbers/owners
were trained during the year. (b) Functional finishing of cotton fabrics
using non-formaldehyde products
(v) 3 books were published, and 4
(c) Fabric Defects – Case Studies in
papers were presented at various
Export Sorts
Conferences.
BTRA participated in two exhibitions viz.,
(vi) 11 papers were published in Scientific
‘ITGME – 2006’ held at Coimbatore from
& Technical Journals by ATIRA staff
February 3-6, 2006, and ‘TEXMACH 2006’
during the year.
held at Mumbai from 1st to 4th December,
(vii) 15 talks and lectures were given by 2006. Various textile research publications
ATIRA staff during the year. and posters on technical services, testing
services and R & D work were displayed
BOMBAY TEXTILES RESEARCH on the occasion.
ASSOCIATION (BTRA), MUMBAI.
BTRA has given licences to manufacture
Performance four of their products viz., (i) Universal
Stain Remover for Bath Application,
During the period 2006-07, research (ii) Patchless Spray Gun Solution, (iii)
and development activities at BTRA Centralized Lubrication System for
were directed towards developing cost Powerlooms, and (iv) Energy Saver Unit
effective techniques, product innovation, for Automatic Looms during the year under
improving product (yarn/fabric) quality, review.
ensuring utilities (energy and water)
conservation, improving productivity and BTRA organised three seminars during
machine maintenance. BTRA engaged the year under review, viz., (i) Challenges
in 11 research projects in various areas for Garment Exporters, (ii) Cutting-edge
of the textiles sector. BTRA undertook Technologies for Textile Processing
extensive liaison and consultancy Industry, and (iii) New Frontiers in Textiles.
services to solve problems of quality, All the three seminars evoked very good
maintenance, productivity, water / energy response from the industry.
conservation, techno-economic viability,
SOUTH INDIA TEXTILES RESEARCH
valuation of fixed assets, vetting revival
ASSOCIATION (SITRA), COIMBATORE
proposals, equipment verification, control
panel valuation, etc., for textiles mills. 11 Performance
training programmes covering various
subjects such as ISO-17025, lubricants SITRA was involved in 24 research
saving, role of electronics in high speed projects and 140 consultancies including
looms, supervisory training in weaving, 2 overseas assignments. SITRA scientists
chemical processing, etc., were conducted presented 22 papers in various seminars
by the TRA. Three research papers were and conferences, and also contributed 31
presented in the 47th Joint Technological research papers for publication in various
Conference held in New Delhi on technical/managerial journals. The NABL
April 8, 2006: accredited laboratories of SITRA have
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tested close to 71,000 samples (fibre, lectures by experts from the World
yarn or fabric) for physical and/or chemical Trade Centre, Geneva also received
analysis. SITRA’s Powerlooms Service good response with close to 150
Centers offered a wide range of services, delegates participating.
including 700 technical consultations,
the development of 267 designs, and NORTHERN INDIA TEXTILES
the testing of 30,000 samples. SITRA’s RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (NITRA),
Computer Aided Design Centers created GHAZIABAD.
more than 35 designs and offered 10
training programmes. Performance
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The main objective of the project is Transducers and generators for textile
indigenous development of a Tensile application
Creep apparatus for accurately
measuring this parameter strictly as 4. Design and development of Table
per international specifications. The Top Model of light fastness testing
equipment should be universally Instrument
applicable for testing of various 5. Design and development of Xenon
types of geotextiles, geogrids and filled solar simulator for light fastness
geomembranes. One of the practical testing instrument for textiles
disadvantages of using sophisticated
imported equipment is that the clamping 6. Design and development of Instruments
and loading systems are generally part for predicting fabric tailorability
of the universal testing machine used 7. Design and development of membrane
for tensile characteristics. Hence a type solute separation equipment for
dedicated creep tester for geotextile is textile industry to reduce pollution and
the need of the hour facilitate recycling of chemicals and to
conserve water during wet processing
“Design And Development of
Clamping Devices for Testing HIGHLIGHTS OF ACHIEVEMENTS
Tensile Properties of High Strength
1. SASMIRA has successfully developed
Technical Textile Fabrics”
two new instruments for textile
The objective of the project is to applications under the DST sponsored
develop suitable clamps (grips) for projects:
better gripping of high performance
I) Design and development of Table
textiles during tensile testing by
Top Model of light fastness testing
wide width method. The proposed
Instrument
clamps will overcome the chance of
slippage which is a common problem The objective of present project was to
while testing high tenacity fabrics by develop a Table - top version of the light
conventional method.
fastness testing instrument. SASMIRA has
The project would be divided into two already developed a floor model of light
phases 1) developing the required fastness testing instrument under different
grip mount adapter sets (for top and conditions of temperature and humidity.
bottom) for high performance fabrics The prototype of the testing instrument
and 2) installing the grips on the is already developed and extensive trials
existing tensile testing machine and have been carried out to compare the
conducting trials with high performance developed prototype with the commercially
fabrics. available imported instrument.
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ministry of textiles
fabric performance during stitching. These for the first certification. The certification
properties are required to be evaluated has made a positive impact on the testing
under low stress conditions to predict the and technical services and has resulted in
tailorability performance of the fabrics. The better interaction with the industry.
presently available instruments for evaluating
fabric handle and tailorability are Kawabata SASMIRA is also receiving financial support
Evaluation System for Fabrics (KESF) and to run 2 Powerloom Service Centres (PSC)
Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST). at Bhiwandi for the benefit of the local
These instruments are relatively less popular weaving industry. Forty-two students have
among the common weavers and garment enrolled for the one-year certificate course
manufacturers due to their complicated on weaving run by the centre. The centres
outputs and exorbitant prices. Hence our also implemented the Group Insurance
work was aimed at developing a low cost Scheme (GIS) promoted by the Ministry
fabric tailorability tester. of Textiles for the Bhiwandi weavers.
They have also conducted 20 Seminars
As per the project objectives, both the on current topics relating to textiles and
prototypes of fabric tailorability tester relevant to powerloom weavers during the
have been developed. The Prototype I year under review.
evaluate individually all the parameters
pertaining to fabric tailorability viz., Technical Services
extension, compression and bending.
The Prototype II is a computer-interfaced About 25 technical services have been
tester, which combinedly evaluates all the provided by SASMIRA during the year.
said properties.
Consultancy
SASMIRA’s FABRIC TAILORABILITY
TESTER About 5 consultancy services have been
provided by SASMIRA during the year.
HRD (Education/Studies)
Instrumentation
SASMIRA imparts manpower training
through technical education offering SASMIRA has been undertaking designing
various diploma and certificate courses. and development of textile testing
During the year many new courses are instruments for the textile industry. Order
introduced which are professional in nature. for 12 instruments had been received and
SASMIRA Retail Education Programme 8 instruments delivered.
has been launched in the current year to
Information services
boost the upcoming Retail Sector.
During the year under review Library
Testing services SASMIRA’s testing
added to its stock 98 books, 114 bound
services (Mechanical as well as chemical)
volumes 116 dissertations and 120 other
are accredited by the National Accreditation
material such as annual reports, Standard
Board to the Testing and Calibration
Specifications, Brochures etc. The total
Laboratory (NABL) since 2004. Testing is
holding of the library is 30,047. Library
as per ISO/IEC 17025 2005 norms.
received 197 books from “The Raja
The laboratory has recently undergone Bahadur Motilal Poona Mills’ by way of
the renewal audit for the laboratories donation. Also, M/s Nirlon Limited donated
after enjoying the full term of three years about 2000 books to the library.
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coating systems and testing equipments iv) Computer Aided Textile Designing and
will be set up at MANTRA. Also, HRD Colour Research Laboratory
programme covering short term training
in technical textiles for core personnel is v) Eco-testing Laboratory
already started at MANTRA. The proposed Activities
centre will strengthen infrastructural (1) Mechanical processing of wool and
facilities of MANTRA further to serve textile woollen blends on woollen spinning
industry of the region. system.
MANTRA has worked out some Technical (2) Processing of Jute, Wool and Synthetic
Textile projects based on woven, non- Fibres on Friction Spinning (DREF-II).
woven (spun jet) and circular knitting (3) Development of elastomeric friction
textiles, which can be feasible in Surat and spun yarn and fancy yarn on DREF-II
South Gujarat by adding certain facilities friction spinning machine.
such as coating, laminating and spun bond (4) Development of Economic Friction
and spun lace plants and converters. In Spun Multi-component yarn for high-
the same context, it was suggested that a tech (Industrial Fabric) Textiles.
Centre of Excellence in Technical Textiles
(5) Computer Aided Designing &
is to be set up at MANTRA. Accordingly,
manufacturing of knitwears.
a proposal based on nonwovens has
already been submitted to the Principal (6) Computer Applications in Colour
Secretary (I&M), Government of Gujarat, Matching and Quality Control,
comprising R&D and quality appraisal, woven printed designs, grading and
product development (pilot plant), HRD in blending.
spun bond and spun lace technology.` (7) Carpet designing, weaving and
finishing.
WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION
(8) Natural and synthetic dyeing and
(WRA), THANE
finishing of wool and woollen blends.
Wool Research Association (WRA) was (9) Physical and chemical testing from
established and registered under the fibre to fabric.
Societies Reistration Act, 1860 in October (10) Eco-testing of textiles
1963. A group of members representing
various woollen industries come forward (11) Project Proposals, Feasibility reports
related to above activities.
to establish the Research & Development
laboratory for the benefit of woollen Sponsored Projects from Ministry of
industry. Textiles.
I. On-going Projects
Wool Research Association, at present,
is organised under the following five Project I : Optimise processing
departments namely : parameters for Eri silk / wool yarns on
worsted system to develop value added
i) Physical Test House products.
(a) Raw material in the form of
ii) Chemical Test House degummed eri cocoon
iii) Textile Technology Department and Initial trials with small quantity of eri-silk
Pilot Plant. and wool were undertaken at Raymond
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have also been conducted for blending Availability of Graded Indian Raw Wool
of Deccani wool with finer variety of wool & Yarn for increasing export of quality
of Himachal Pradesh and Uttaranchal handmade carpets” in collaboration
Pradesh for all wool knitwear products. with the Associations of Wools of New
Zealand & Romney, Christchurch, Central
New Projects
Wool Development Board , Woolmark
The following two projects are sanctioned Company, New Delhi & Carpet Export
by Ministry of Textiles, Government of Promotion Council, New Delhi on 24th
India, New Delhi. March, 2007, at Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner.
The Seminar was inaugurated by Shri. J.N.
1. To synthesize wool dyes with moth
proofing properties. Singh, Textiles Commissioner, followed
by Technical Sessions from eminent
2. To improve processing performance scientists from Woollen and Carpet
of finer Indian wools and their product and Animal Husbandry Organisations.
range with incorporation of Enzyme There was a good response from all
technology for better value addition the Carpet Manufacturers and Bikaner
(with special reference to early stage Industries Association, the main carpet
processing)
yarn manufacturers and suppliers for the
WORKSHOPS /SEMINARS Bhadohi Carpet belt. The importance of
CONDUCTED / PARTICIPATED the quality control from fibre to yarns,
dyeing was well understood by the Bikaner
Visit to Jammu & Kashmir from 12th industry-technical, and manegerial
to 16th June, 2006 to hold discussions quarter. Participants have shown concern
with Managing Director J&K Sheep &
for the Indian sheep breeds which can be
Sheep Products Development Board on
better utilized for making good carpets
establishment of Industrial Service Centre
at Nowshera, Srinagar and hold discussions for exports. Participants from New
with J&K Chamber of Commerce on GI Zealand have also shown interest for the
Registration of Pashmina shawls. joint venture in developing cross-breed
programmes.
AATCC’s Seminar
INDUSTRIAL CONSULTANCY
AATCC’s 2 days seminar on “Basics of
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing” was held on Following Consultancy Services were
2nd February, 2007 at Textiles Committee
offered by WRA
Auditorium. WRA participated in the
deliberations. a. J & K Sheep & Sheep Products
Silver Jubilee Conference at Development Board for establishment
Ichalkaranji of Industrial Service Centre at
Nowshera, Srinagar.
D.K.T.E, Ichalakaranji Dist. Kolhapur
organized a Silver Jubilee Conference on b. Bhutti Weavers Co-operative Society
16th, 17th & 18th February, 2007. Scientists Ltd., Kullu for setting up Dyeing &
from WRA participated actively. Finishing Facility.
Seminar on Grading of Wool
c. Crafts Development Institute of India
Wool Research Association, Thane on Testing of Pashmina for regulation
organized a seminar on “Improving of GI Registration activities.
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3. Textile Testing & Quality Control (Part (i) To promote Research and other
time /Full Time). scientific work concerned with the
The infrastructure for the educational jute trade and industries allied with or
activities like classrooms, furniture, accessory thereto;
presentation aids, availability of experts (ii) To establish and maintain laboratories
and guest lecturers were developed and and faster education of persons
nearly 20 students were benefited under engaged in or likely to be engaged in
the above said courses. the said trade and industry;
WRA Institute is also recognised by (iii) To examine and publish information
Maharashtra State Board of Technical regarding the nature and merits of
Education to conduct P.G. Diploma Course
inventions, improvements materials
(1 year) in Wool Textile Technology &
and designs connected with the said
Ecological & Instrumental Chemical
traders of industries.
Analysis.
The R&D activities and technology
The laboratories of WRA are also
transfer programme of IJIRA have
recognised by University of Mumbai for
helped to improve the productivity,
Research Studies leading to M.Sc & Ph.D
product quality and cost viability of the
degree.
organized jute mills and also the SMEs
Achievements / Accreditation in the jute sector.
NABL IJIRA has been maintaining Regional
Centres at Shantipur (West Bengal),
The Quality Test House has successfully
Guwahati (Assam) and Vizianagram
completed the Surveillance Audit and
(Andhra Pradesh) for strengthening the
is accredited by NABL for Mechanical
locally growing jute related activities.
& Chemical testing as per 17025 vide
certification numbers are T – 1225 & T IJIRA website is www.ijira.org
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Table 13.2
this wing. In dispensing with the above the government as well as the industry,
function, economic and market related various surveys/studies have been carried
research studies are being carried out out. In addition to the research surveys/
covering the entire gamut of the textile studies planned by the Textiles Committee,
production, consumption and distribution. Market Research Wing undertakes client-
Depending upon the requirements of sponsored studies/surveys also.
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The major activities of Market Research Ø MTC Report, 2006, is printed and
Wing during the period were: released in August 2007
(i) Continuing the operation of Market Ø The list of textiles mills, educational
for Textiles and Clothing Survey and institute, research centre, personal list
publishing annual report. of libraries, textiles association and
(ii) Preparation of status paper of textile industry etc. have been completed.
industry in important states. The modifications are undertaken on
the basis of input received from users
(iii) Sponsored surveys as per the of the data.
requirement of Central Govt./State
Govt./Leading Textile Associations Other Surveys/Studies
and major Stakeholders.
Survey on Textile Engineering Industry
(iv) Operating/maintaining WTO Cell (Textile Machinery Manufacturers
for compilation and dissemination Association India)
of information/data on WTO and
international textile industry. The Census of Textile Machinery Industry
has been initiated mainly to fill up the data
(v) UNCTAD Project: Strategies & gap required for policy decision pertaining
Preparedness on Trade & Globalisation
to textile machinery industry in India. The
for Textiles & Clothing Sector.
absence of data on the machinery sector
Name of the Project/M.R. Activities/ is an impediment in policy decision-
Present Status making and its growth plans. Textiles
Committee has been taken up the study in
Market for Textiles & Clothing: National collaboration of TMMA.
Household Survey
The study has been initiated from July 07.
Ø Existing panel size enhances to 13,950 The study proposed to be completed in six
Households (located in 116 urban and
months period for the total project cost of
261 rural centers)
Rs. 6 lakh.
Ø Data collection from 95% of the
Sample Households are expected for The work plans for various activities under
66263 CPPRs during 2007-08 (upto Census of Textile Machinery Industry
December 2007) are forwarded to TMMA for approval
purpose. The activities are accordingly
Ø Data verification/maintenance was initiated studies are undertaken. The part
done in 153 centers reimbursement of expenditures incurred
towards census activities will be taken
Ø Panel replacement completed in 19
from TMMA.
urban and 63 rural centres for panel
replacement during 2007-08 (upto Ø Questionnaire pre-testing complete
December 2007)
Ø Data collection from TEI Units started
Ø Data entry for the month of July-August
2007 has been completed in RO’s. Action plan prepared for the
field operation in all states
Ø During 2007-0814,453 incentives items
have been proposed for procurement Ø Questionnaires dispatched to the units
to the households located in Maharashtra. & Gujarat
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Ø The data collection work from the Participation of the stakeholders in policy
units in Gujarat has been entrusted to making
ATIRA. Main Themes addressed:
Strategies and Preparedness on Trade l New EU – GSP Schemes
and Globalization in India
l IPR protection through Geographical
The Government of India, UNCTAD and Indications Act
DFID are jointly implementing a four
year programme titled” Strategies and l Export competitiveness of Indian T&C
Preparedness for Trade and Globalisation in select markets of EU and US
in India”. The project aims at strengthening l Implications of Tariff and Non-Tariff
human and institutional capacities among Barriers on exports of T&C products
stakeholders so as to support and sustain
the process of globalisation. The Textiles l Cost benchmarking studies on
Committee has been implementing the powerloom clusters of Tamilnadu,
project as Tier-I partner for Textiles and Maharashtra and Gujarat, market
Clothing Sector. linkage and brand building of selected
products.
Objectives
Main activities undertaken :
l Creating awareness on WTO
negotiations and trade related issues. l Organisation of 6 inception workshops
and 7 Sectoral Workshops, 15
l Better understanding and analysis of Interactive meetings at Puri, Lucknow,
trade issues under WTO framework. Hubli, Raipur, Panipath, Chandigarh
,Chennai, Kolkata, Mumbai & Yeala.
l Trade Related Capacity Building
(TRCB). l More than 1200 stakeholders
participated and shared their
l Dissemination of trade related issues concerns.
among the stakeholders.
l Three Newsletters published “Trade
l Provide feedback and inputs to policy Globalisation and Textiles and 4th issue
matter for devising pro-poor sectoral on Trade Globalisation and Textiles”
policies/ schemes will be released soon.
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Output Ongoing
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MoUs signed: The MoU for signing of 17020. So far, 100 lots were assessed
Tier-II partners in different clusters has under these schemes. The consultancy
been signed and sent to stakeholders. 114 services on Quality Solutions in M/s.
signed MoU from different stakeholders Sabare International Ltd, Karur are at
received. Efforts are being made for the final stage. Similarly, consultancy
signing the MoU with other stakeholders. services on Quality and Productivity
MoU with IIFT and Government of A.P., Improvement were undertaken in M/s.
Jharkhand, U.P. & Kerala to share Bhoopathi Textiles, M/s. Somanatha
and exchange information and its Textiles, M/s. Akude Textiles, and Birru
documentation on a regular basis, to Enterprises in Sholapur during the
conduct regular consultation at a senior period.
professional level
Pursuant to signing of an MOU between
Quality Appraisal & Export Certification Governments of India and Bangladesh,
Services: The Export Promotion & the Ministry of Textiles has authorized the
Quality Assurance Division carries out Textiles Committee to monitor Tariff Rate
the following functions: Quota (TRQ) for export of 8 million pieces
of apparel articles by Bangladesh into
(i) Conducting technical studies in the
India, duty free. Therefore, instructions
textile industry, under Section 4(2)
were issued by the Committee to its field
(a) of the Act
staff for implementations vide Circular
(ii) Promotion of export of textiles, under No. A-836 dated October 30, 2007.
Section 4(2)(b) of the Act
As decided by the Textiles Committee,
(iii) Establishing, adopting and
in its 94th meeting held on October 16,
recommending standard
2006, efforts are being made to get the
specifications for textiles and packing
EPQA Division accredited under ISO
materials, under Section 4(2)(c) of
17020, exclusively meant for commercial
the Act
inspection, through the Quality Council
(iv) Providing for inspection and of India. Application has already been
examination of textiles and packing made to QCI along with requisite fee
materials under Section 4(2)(e) of of Rs.2,00,000.00. In this regard,
the Act documentations were finalized and sent
2. The quantum of work carried out by to QCI for assessment. The EPQA
this Division during 2007-2008 (upto division is expected to be accredited
December 2007), are at table 13.3. under ISO 17020 by early 2008.
During 2006-07, the schemes for Quality During 2008-2009, the Committee
Appraisal of fabric, made-ups & garments will continue to implement the above
were further fine-tuned in line with the schemes and also make efforts to
ISO 17020. Another scheme for quality improve upon them to serve the industry
Appraisal of Yarn was formulated in line more effectively. Once accredited under
with ISO 17020. The schemes were ISO 17020, the commercial inspections
given wide publicity and inspections are are expected to get an impetus, which
being undertaken under these 4 schemes would further augment the revenue
with a view to meeting requirement of ISO collection of the Committee.
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Table 13.3
2007-2008
(Upto Projected
Sl.No. Particulars
December (Upto March 2008)
2007)
1. No. of lots appraised under QAS 170 200
2. No. of GSP Certificates issued 2,45,970 3,29,970
3. No. of Certificates of Origin (Non-Preferential)
67,261 82,261
issued
4. No. of lots examined under limited inspection
for loom origin for issue of Handloom 1,001 1001
certificates
5. No. of handloom and other special certificates
1,293 1,293
issued
6. No. of lots of yarn /fabrics of cotton/Art-silk/
Synthetics/ 0 0
blended inspected for quality.
7. No. of samples classified for HS code,
description, etc. 1,848 2,048
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