What are the things that comes to your mind when you hear the word Dressmaking?

Well
of course its dress, clothing items, patterns, sewing machine, needles and threads but particularly
we focused on women’s clothing. But the interesting part of this is knowing what really is
dressmaking and how it started and also, how did it evolved as times passed by.

Based on the study of the history of dressmaking, it is an age-old profession that dates back
thousands of years. Some historians would even argue that the history of dressmaking goes back
as far as the invention of the needles. Six hundred and fifty thousand years ago, when man first
started wearing pelts and plant material for warmth, comfort, and appearance, they had no idea
how far the concept of clothing as identity would go in the intervening millennia. They just wanted
to keep the sun off of their backs and to stave off the frigid winters. The very earliest clothing was
simply draped, tied, or wrapped around peoples’ waist or shoulders as they went on about their
days. It went on like this for the majority of human history – for nearly six hundred and thirty
thousand years, until sewing was invented.

Just under twenty thousand years back, we find the first signs of actual sewing haven taken
place. Bone and ivory needles have been discovered from this period, though they were likely still
put to use on animal pelts. Once woven fabrics, like linen and silk, became the norm, dressmaking
as a career became very popular and common place. Many dressmakers would cater mostly to
wealthy aristocrats who, creating clothing based on illustrations of the latest styles. Traditionally,
dressmaking was a career for women. Along with writing and painting, it was deemed to be a
socially acceptable and proper way for women to earn a living wage. Today, however, dressmaking
is an acceptable career for both women and men alike. Modern dressmakers might make a variety
of different types of clothing, from elegant gowns to business suits.

In the second half of the 19th century, there was a growth of the paper pattern industry in
which mirrored the development of the domestic sewing machine and the increase of fashion print
media. It was a time of great development, and the fashion industry - always at the forefront of
technological and industrial changes - was growing in size and reaching more people than ever
before. In 1851, Isaac M. Singer patented the first ‘rigid arm’ sewing machine which used a foot
treadle instead of a hand crank, and overnight home sewing machine became much less laborious,
encouraging women to engage with the latest trends.
 Contemporary opinions towards home dressmaking in the 1930s were varied. The
traditional view is that home dressmaking was a cheap alternative to ready-made which was
becoming increasingly available but was still the more expensive option, as was seeing a
dressmaker. However, later research shows that this wasn’t always the case. In a groundbreaking
book on home dressmaking, one oral history study showed that many practitioners believed that
making clothing at home provided a quality of fit and finish that wasn’t available in shop-bought
‘shoddy’ clothing. Also, the variations that could be created from paper patterns (at least 2 or 3
different options were given from each pattern) allowed the sewer an individuality of style that
wasn’t available with ‘conformist’ ready-made clothes. It is this creativity that people value today,
with home dressmaking on the rise for the first time in decades. At a time when fashion is faster
than ever before in history, crafting your own wardrobe offers a freedom and an individual take
on style that is again becoming highly valued.

Presently, a dressmaker is define as a person who makes custom clothing for women, such
as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. It is also called a mantua-maker or a modiste. Dressmaker'
denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term dressmaker
details which includes ruffles, frills, ribbon or braid trim. Dressmaker in this sense, is contrasted
to tailored and has fallen out of use since the rise of casual wear in the mid-twentieth century. The
following are the different terms and their definition related to dressmaking:

a) Mantua-maker - in the eighteenth century a maker of mantuas, or in general a

dressmaker.
b) Modiste - a maker of fashionable clothing and accessories, with the implication that
the articles made reflect the current Paris fashions.
c) Sewing professional - the most general term for those who make their living by
sewing, teaching, writing about sewing, or retailing sewing supplies. She or he may
work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She
or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialties.
d) Custom clothier - makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual
customer's needs and preferences.
 e) Custom dressmaker - specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses,
career wear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.
f) Tailor - makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with
them, for men or women.
g) Alterations specialist or Alterationist - adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually
ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no
means can all alterationists do tailoring.
h) Designers - choose combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended
garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills, and may only sketch or
conceptualize garments.
i) Patternmakers - flat draft the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment
by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based
software, or by draping muslin on a dress form.
j) Wardrobe consultant or fashion advisor - recommends styles and colors for a client.
k) Seamstress - someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a
factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a
real body. This term is not a synonym for dressmaker. Prior to the Industrial
Revolution, a seamstress did hand sewing, especially under the putting-out system.
l) Sewist - a relatively new term, combining the words "sew" and "artist", to describe
someone who creates sewn works of art, which can include clothing or other items
made with sewn elements.

So, what does a dressmaker really do? Basically, a dressmaker makes and sews clothing.
Although the term dressmaker might imply that these professionals make only dresses, this is a
misconception. The word dress traditionally referred to all types of clothing. While modern
dressmakers will still make women’s dresses, the might also make other types of clothing as well,
including skirts, skirts, and pants.

Some dressmakers specialize in making specific types of clothing, like wedding apparel,
for instance. Other dressmakers might specialize in altering existing pieces of clothing in order to
make them fit better or look different.
 Dressmakers must have a number of specialized skills. Sewing skills are essential in order
to pursue a career in dressmaking. Because measurements play a large part in garment making,
math and measuring skills are also essential. Communication skills are also a must.

Dressmakers often work closely with clients in order to create custom or tailored pieces.
This generally involves choosing a particular style or pattern, as well as several fittings. Before
and during the creation process, a dressmaker will often measure the client’s body several times.
A dressmaker will also usually have the client try on the custom piece several times during the
creation process to help ensure a perfect fit. Before a garment can be made, a specific type of fabric
must also be chosen. The type of fabric chosen will usually be partly based on the wants and needs
of the client, and partly based on the type of fabric that is best for making the garments.

To create a custom piece of clothing, a dressmaker has two options. First, she may create
a garment from an already existing pattern. Most dressmakers have access to several different
patterns, but some clients may even bring their own pattern to a dressmaker. A very skilled
dressmaker might also be able to design a garment and create a pattern to make it. This generally
involves patternmaking skills as well as sewing skills.

Aspiring dressmakers should at least complete their high school education. Other than that,
there are no real specific education requirements for this career. A college degree, however, can
help aspiring dressmakers fine tune their skills. Some colleges and universities offer courses in
apparel maintenance, sewing, and dressmaking particularly. A fashion design degree is another
acceptable degree for individuals who wish to pursue a dressmaking career.

In our country, Philippines, TESDA or Technical Education and Skills Development

Authority offers a course in Dressmaking. Dressmaking (Casual) NC II is a short TESDA course
that will train you in drafting, cutting, and sewing fabric and turning them into casual apparel like
blouses, dresses, skirts, pants, and shorts. The course will only take a minimum of 240 hours to
complete that is roughly 3 months, for an 8am to 12noon every Monday to Friday class.
Some individuals who wish to pursue a career in dressmaking may also be able to secure
an apprenticeship. A dressmaking apprenticeship involves aspiring dressmakers working
alongside skilled and established dressmakers, which allows them to hone their skills and gain
experience at the same time.

With a degree in dressmaking, you will often be able to secure employment in several
different types of businesses. Retail stores, clothing boutiques, garment manufacturers, and dry
cleaning businesses often hire dressmakers. Some established fashion designers also hire
dressmakers as well.

Instead of working for other businesses, you can also establish your own business. With
your own dressmaking business, you will be able to choose which clients you work with and which
types of garments that you make. You will be it complete control of your own career.