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Compact yarns are part of the modern spinning technology, which was developed
globally in the mid-1990s.
Related terms:
Strand, Grafts, Cross Sections, Polyesters, Hairiness, Ring Spun Yarn, Denim Fabric,
Spun Yarn
9.5.3 Knitting
In knitting, the increased strength of compact yarns and the associated reduction
in fly result in very low yarn breaks. There are therefore fewer interruptions, higher
machine efficiency, and fewer fabric faults. In some cases the usual waxing of
the yarns in knitting might be omitted. Owing to the improved fibre binding it
is possible to reduce the twist of compact yarns for knitting by up to 20%, while
maintaining yarn strength identical to that in conventional ring spinning (McCreight
et al., 1997). In addition to the resulting increased yarn production rate, the reduction
in twist will diminish spirally (Smekal, 2001) and give a softer handle to knitted
fabrics.
It might have been expected that Solospun installations would far exceed Sirospun.
Responses from industry suggest that the main reasons why this does not seem to
have happened are (1) the improvement in yarn quality over Sirospun is marginal,
and the yarns are certainly not as good as compact spun yarns, (2) the cost of
Solospun rollers, and (3) variability from spindle to spindle. The last reason is related
to difficulties in monitoring performance. Faulty operation or worn parts, giving
poor abrasion resistance, can cause serious problems in weaving but have not been
readily visible in spinning and have been only marginally detectable in winding in
terms of increased hairiness.
The ideal for a future yarn would seem to be to combine the improvements in quality
of compact spinning with a big enough reduction in hairiness and improvement in
abrasion resistance to make a weavable compact singles yarn. However, the mech-
anisms of splitting and compacting seem to be mutually incompatible. Alternative
directions are to try to extend Solospun into short-staple or knitting yarns. A step in
this direction that seems to be underway is to combine a miniature Solospun roller
with false-twisting. The method appears to allow cotton yarns of low twist, which are
therefore softer, to be produced (Yang et al., 2007).
The second group consists of fibers made from natural polymers, and the third
group comprises synthetic fibers made of synthetic polymers.
• cotton
• wool
• linen
• hemp
• silk.
In the knitting industry, the most popular natural fiber is cotton, which can be used
on every kind of knitting machine. Over the years, the process of cotton spinning
has been modified to alter the properties of cotton as a yarn. Cotton can be used for
all kinds of knitted goods.
Cotton yarn of very high quality can be produced on modern spinning machines
which have compact spinning systems to lower hairiness and reduce twist by even
up to 20%. This process results in improved absorption and, consequently, reduced
consumption of dyestuffs. The yarn produced in a compact spinning system has
lower breakage during the spinning process (which can be as high as 60%), better
strength and elongation at drafting (up to 8–15%) and less irregularity in its linear
density. Compact yarns are part of the modern spinning technology, which was
developed globally in the mid-1990s. Products produced from compact yarn have a
smoother surface and a higher glaze, and is warm and comfortable to handle.
Thanks to the new technology of spinning, we have discovered cotton with a hollow
core. The technology is used to make a combination of two different fibers into a
double-layer yarn. This kind of fiber has a greater diameter than ordinary cotton. By
using this new method:
• products have a greater capillary action and faster water absorbency than
ordinary cotton;
• products are much lighter than those made of ordinary cotton;
Wool is made from animal hair. There are many different species of sheep, as well as
other animal hair used in the production of yarn, such as that of angora goats, and
camels. Some of them are blended with other natural or synthetic fibers. The most
popular goods produced from wool are garments. The very fine Nm (metric count)
is used for production of underwear. Wool is also used for socks and hosiery.
As with other fibers, wool is also modified to change its usage properties. Two-layer
yarn consists of cotton fibers with the woolen core named Ingeo. The combination
of natural fibers, cotton and wool, creates a well-balanced new composition with
high water absorbency and the pleasant soft touch of cotton, mixed together with
the warmth of wool fibers. It is described as a ‘natural air conditioner.’
This new kind of yarn produces the following properties in knitted goods:
• heat insulation that is higher than that of cotton because the core is made of
wool.
Bast fibers are the oldest in the textile raw materials group. Up to now, fibers with
high linear density, such as linen and hemp, were produced for the purpose of
making garments such as warmer clothing and hosiery. Mostly, they are used as a
blended yarn, together with cotton, wool, acrylic and polyamide.
World research has shown that hemp fibers possess more ecologically and health
friendly qualities than flax fibers.
Silk fiber is not very popular in the knitting industry. This is because there are so
many kinds of synthetic fibers. Silk fibers are mainly used for exclusive underwear,
whereas the fibers produced by a spinning process and cut and spun as a staple silk
yarn are preferable for the production of garments.
Figure 3.3. Formation of a CNT yarn by twist insertion (left) and SEM image of a CNT
yarn (right) (Miao, 2013).
The CNT web can also be ‘shrunk’ into a compact yarn of irregular cross section
by passing through a droplet of volatile solvent (Zhang et al., 2006). CNTs are
hydrophobic but can be wetted by volatile solvents. The surface tension pulls the
CNT bundles together, as the yarn leaves the meniscus. With the evaporation of the
volatile solvent, a dry-densified CNT yarn is formed.
3.3.2 Up-spinning
Figure 3.5 shows what is dubbed as the CSIRO ‘up-spinner’ (Miao et al., 2010). The
CNT forest is attached to a spindle that can be rotated at high speed. The continuous
CNT web drawn from the forest is pulled up (hence the name up-spinner) to the
yarn bobbin, while twist is being inserted by the spindle. On the up-spinner, the two
essential functions of continuous yarn spinning are carried out independently: twist
is inserted by the fast rotating vertical spindle, and yarn taking-up is carried out by
the slow rotating horizontal yarn bobbin. Additionally, a yarn guide or the bobbin
itself traverses longitudinally to spread the yarn along the bobbin. The up-spinner
is a much simpler machine design than the flyer-spinner. The mass carried on the
high-speed spindle is immensely smaller than that of the spindle assembly in the
flyer-spinning method. The yarn path on the up-spinner is essentially a straight line,
resulting in much lower yarn tension during spinning, so that very delicate CNT
webs can be spun into yarns at high speeds.
Because of its engineering simplicity, the up-spinner has been run at spindle speeds
up to 18,000 rpm, comparable to that of modern spinning machines used to produce
fine-count conventional textile yarns. Another advantage of the up-spinner is that
the operations required to start a new yarn or to piece up a broken yarn end are
greatly simplified.
Mechanical rubbing action can be used to produce a highly densified CNT yarn
(Figure 3.6), in which the CNTs are substantially straight and parallel with each other
and are aligned in the direction of the yarn axis (Miao, 2012). The main working
parts of the machine are a pair of padded rollers that participate in both rotation and
longitudinal oscillation. The rotational motion of the two rollers transports the CNT
web drawn from the CNT forest to the yarn take-up bobbin. The axial oscillations of
the two rollers work in opposite directions to apply a rubbing action that densifies
the CNT web into a yarn.
Figure 3.6. CNT yarn production by rub densification (Miao, 2012).
Figure 3.7. Core-spun yarns. Top: schematic of core-spun yarn process. Bottom:
cross sectional view of core-spun CNT yarn.
7.17. Two main mechanisms of yarn failure (slippage – top, fibre break – bottom).
In dependence on the type of yarn, one of these mechanisms predominates: slippage
in the case of ring and rotor yarns and breakage in the case of compact yarns. The
static and dynamic tensile strength of ring and compact yarns is lower in comparison
with rotor yarn.
Static breaking load and elongation, although correlated with some dynamic char-
acteristics of yarn, do not allow for a good prediction of the yarn behaviour under
dynamic loading, especially for prediction of the yarn behaviour under pulsatory
loading. Yarn resistance to dynamic loading depends mainly on twist parameter
which can determined in a way the compactness and ‘closure’ of the yarn structure.
The results obtained show that yarn resistance to dynamic loading differs for differ-
ent types of yarn. Open-end and air jet yarns due to their structure, among others
the presence of wrapper fibres, form more ‘compact and closed’ structure, and are
generally more resistant to the dynamic loading than more ‘open’ ring-spun yarns.
The fatigue behaviour of yarn strongly depends on the features of load applied
during pulsatory loading – the number of pulses till breaks decreases exponentially
with increasing load frequency and decreases, although slower, with increasing
initial load [19]. Different type of the yarn structure effects different relationships
between the static and fatigue strength of yarn. Open-end yarns of the same tensile
strength can be characterized by much higher fatigue strength than ring spun yarns.
When comparing the effect of fatigue and coupled effect of fatigue and abrasion,
one can see that the one phase yarn – ring and compact – can be characterized by
much higher resistance to the abrasion than the multi-phase rotor yarns [19]. The
reason is the quite different surface structure of yarns (see Fig. 7.18).
7.18. Surface structure of 29.5 tex cotton yarn: a) ring, b) experimental, c) rotor.
The yarn surface structure has great influence on the yarn-to-yarn (YY) and
yarn-to-metal (YM) frictions. It was found that the behaviour of frictions for YY is
different than that of YM. In case of YY friction, rotor yarn shows maximum friction
followed by air-jet, and ring-spun yarns; however, a reverse order is noticed for YM
friction [65].
• fibre elongation.
The yarn decrimp mechanism occurs just at the initial stage of fatigue. The region
of the sharp variations of the yarn viscoelastic properties up to nearly 1000 cycles of
loading is attributed to the ability of the fibre to reorganize inside the yarn structure.
Finally, the region of the steady variations of the viscoelastic properties of yarn seems
to be due to fibre elongation.
The fatigue results reveal that the polyester fibre component has an important role
in improving the fatigue resistance of the yarn to tensile cyclic loading. It has also
been demonstrated that greater variations of yarn viscoelasticity are obtained with
higher strain percent, so that at 1% strain the 100% cotton yarn reveals immediate
failure [20].
Barrela and Manich [22] investigated the resistance to abrasion and resistance to
repeated extension (both expressed as number of cycles to break) for PES/cotton
yarn prepared by ring, rotor and Dref III technology for two linear densities and
three twist level. The yarn against yarn abrasion was performed using a Abrafil device
(mechanical load 150cN and speed of abrasion 100 cycles/minute). Resistance to
repeated extension was measured using a Comptis device (pretension 1.5 cN/tex,
cycle amplitude 3.3% frequency 200 cycles/minute). The friction spun yarns (Dref III)
show a smaller resistance to abrasion and to repeated extension than the ring and
rotor yarns. The ring-spun yarns show the best repeated extension resistance, fol-
lowed by rotor-spun yarn. Dref III yarns are the weakest. The best abrasion resistance
is for rotor yarns, followed by ring yarns. The Dref III yarns are again the weakest.
The blend composition has serious influence on resistances. When the proportion
of polyester is decreased form 70% to 50% the extension resistance decreased and
abrasion resistance increased for rotor- and friction-spun yarns. This trend is less
defined for ring-spun yarns. Both repeated tension and abrasion resistances increase
with increase of twist level. The abrasion resistance is higher for coarser yarns for all
yarn types. The dependence of abrasion resistance AT on repeated tension resistance
RT is shown in Fig. 7.19.
7.19. Dependence of abrasion resistance AT on repeated tension resistance RT.
The straight lines were computed by linear least squares regression. The estimated
regression lines have the form
The methodology for creation S-N fatigue curves for worsted wool yarns with linear
density of 16 tex and 25 tex produced with the use of a FIOMAX 2000 ring spinning
machine was describer in the work [66]. These curves were approximated by the
semi-logarithmic model in the form
The yarn linear density does not have significant influence on the course of the
S-N curve. The influence of the fibre parameters (fineness Tf [tex], staple length Ls
[mm], density f [mg/mm3]) and yarn parameters (fineness Ty [tex], twist Ky [turns/m],
density y [mg/mm3]) on the fatigue life N under specific conditions is investigated
in [67]. Four dimensionless complexes were obtained as a result of scaling theory and
dimensionality analysis. After rearrangements the final prediction relation results
Figure 15.7. Polyester vascular prostheses in straight (a) and bifurcated (b) designs.
Over the years a series of different concepts have influenced the innovation and
design requirements for polyester arterial prostheses.
For small-diameter arterial substitutes, the autologous saphenous vein remains the
undisputed gold standard.108 Should it not be available, the ePTFE is preferred in
femoro-popliteal and axillo-femoral bypass applications,109 while warp-knitted or
woven polyester devices impregnated with collagen, gelatin or albumin are pre-
ferred for medium- and large-caliber positions. 86–89,91–94 It has long been known
that compliance mismatch at the prosthesis/artery junction contributes to the de-
velopment of intimal hyperplasia due to changes in wall shear rate distribution
near the distal anastomosis. This complication leads to graft failure, particularly in
small-diameter applications.110,111 Attempts are being made to improve the radial
compliance of polyester arterial prostheses by applying novel three-dimensional
textile technologies to weave a two-layer structure with each layer having a different
radial compliance.112 While this structure will mimic the compliance of the natural
vessel, it is not known whether the mechanical advantage will be maintained after
healing in vivo. In summary, the selection of alternative materials to serve as conduits
has reached a hiatus as the available devices have proven to provide highly gratifying
results for medium- and large-caliber vessels. Table 15.3 compares the performance
of synthetic vascular prostheses that are in current clinical use.