Plywood

Introduction:
Plywood is made of three or more thin layers of wood bonded together with an adhesive.
Each layer of wood, or ply, is usually oriented with its grain running at right angles to the
adjacent layer in order to reduce the shrinkage and improve the strength of the finished piece.
Most plywood is pressed into large, flat sheets used in building construction. Other plywood
pieces may be formed into simple or compound curves for use in furniture, boats, and aircraft.

Raw Materials:
The outer layers of plywood are known respectively as the face and the back. The face is the
surface that is to be used or seen, while the back remains unused or hidden. The centre layer
is known as the core. In plywood with five or more plies, the inter-mediate layers are known
as the crossbands.
Plywood may be made from hardwoods, softwoods, or a combination of the two. Some
common hardwoods include ash, maple, mahogany, oak, and teak. The most common
softwood used to make plywood in the United States is Douglas fir, although several varieties
of pine, cedar, spruce, and redwood are also used.
Composite plywood has a core made of particleboard or solid lumber pieces joined edge to
edge. It is finished with a plywood veneer face and back. Composite plywood is used where
very thick sheets are needed.
The type of adhesive used to bond the layers of wood together depends on the specific
application for the finished plywood. Softwood plywood sheets designed for installation on
the exterior of a structure usually use a phenol-formaldehyde resin as an adhesive because
of its excellent strength and resistance to moisture. Softwood plywood sheets designed for
installation on the interior of a structure may use a blood protein or a soybean protein
adhesive, although most softwood interior sheets are now made with the same phenol-
formaldehyde resin used for exterior sheets. Hardwood plywood used for interior
applications and in the construction of furniture usually is made with a urea-formaldehyde
resin.
Some applications require plywood sheets that have a thin layer of plastic, metal, or resin-
impregnated paper or fabric bonded to either the face or back (or both) to give the outer
surface additional resistance to moisture and abrasion or to improve its paint-holding
properties. Such plywood is called overlaid plywood and is commonly used in the
construction, transportation, and agricultural industries.
Other plywood sheets may be coated with a liquid stain to give the surfaces a finished
appearance, or may be treated with various chemicals to improve the plywood's flame
resistance or resistance to decay.

Types of Plywood:
There are a variety of ways in which plywood is classified and these classifications are usually
based on the different aspects of plywood such as the wood used, the number of plies it has,
its suitability for indoor and outdoor use, its grading as per quality specifications, and its
intended uses.

The major types of Plywood: -

● Interior and Exterior Grade plywood-

As the names suggest, interior grade plywood is meant for indoor use, while exterior grade is
waterproof and can be used outdoors. The most common type of plywood that is used for
making furniture for our homes and offices is Commercial plywood (which is Interior MR
grade). The acronym 'MR' stands for 'Moisture resistant'.
BWP (Boiling Water Proof) or BWR (Boiling Water Resistant) plywoods are called exterior
grade plywoods. They are made using phenolic resins and are adequately waterproof.

● Commercial, Waterproof, and Marine Grade-

When dealers in India say Commercial ply, they mean MR grade, and when they say, 'Water
proof plywood' what they generally mean by that is BWP/BWR grade plywood. However,
there are many shopkeepers as well as interior designers who often refer to BWP/BWR grade
plywood as 'Marine ply' as this has become sort of a naming convention in the plywood
market. (however technically speaking this is incorrect, since the actual 'Marine grade
plywood' is different from BWP/BWR grade waterproof plywood. It’s of a superior quality and
used in marine applications).
A plywood sheet having ISI mark photographed at a carpenter's shop in Navi Mumbai, India.
The IS specification number IS:303 is mentioned above, and a CM/L number (Licence number)
is mentioned below the ISI mark.
The Indian Standards quality specification for all these so-called commercial plywoods is
detailed in the document IS: 303. Plywood companies that have a BIS (Bureau of Indian
Standards) certification are allowed to have the ISI mark printed on their plywood sheets. The
IS specification number has to be printed above the ISI mark, and the CM/L number (Unique
Licence Number) is printed below the mark.

Marine Plywood: -
Marine Plywood is of a superior quality compared to Commercial ply and it is also costs a lot
more. It is not usually used for indoor applications such as for making furniture. It is rather
used for applications such as for boat building and other industrial uses where the plywood
is bound to get a prolonged exposure to water.
For making furniture, commercial plywood is usually sufficient. (BWP/BWR resist water better
than MR types. So, for kitchen furniture using BWP/BWR is quite common). For furniture that
is unlikely to get wet, MR grade ply is usually good enough.
The Indian Standards quality specifications for marine type of plywood are described in the
standards document IS: 710.

● Types of plywood based on the type of wood used-

Generally, hardwood is used for making plywood, because it is stronger and more durable,
however some manufacturers may also use softwood for making lower cost plywoods. Still
other manufacturers can use a combination of both woods, with some wood veneers of
hardwood and others of softwood.

1. Hardwood Plywood-
For example, made from teak wood, or gurjan wood or birch wood. If all the veneers used in
making the plywood have been obtained from hardwood trees it will be termed as 100%
hardwood plywood and its cost will be higher.

2. Softwood Plywood-
For example, made from woods like cedar, SPF (Spruce-Pine-Fir) or Mango wood.

● Categorization based on the particular wood (tree) used in its making-

For example: 1. Gurjan plywood
2. Teak plywood
3. Redwood plywood
4. SPF Plywood
More terminology and usage based classifications:

1. Flexible Plywood: -
Also called 'flexi ply' in India. In some countries such as US, it is also known by another name
'bendy ply'. This type of plywood is not stiff and can be easily rolled up. Useful for creating
rounded shapes in furniture.

2. FR grade: Fire Retardant: -

Used in places where fire risks have to be reduced such as in the case of public theatres, malls
or shopping complexes, restaurant kitchens and the like. The surface of this type of plywood
is treated with chemicals that delay the burning process of wood (hence called fire retardant).
Indian standards document number IS: 5509-1980 has detailed quality specifications for this
type.

3. Termite-Resistant and Borer-proof: -

As the name suggests, offers protection from external pests that can destroy the wood.

4. Structural Plywood: -
Suitable for construction applications where structural stability is required. Quality
specifications detailed in document IS: 10701

5. Concrete Shuttering Plywood: -

Used in building construction work to create the wooden moulds into which concrete will be
case. Hence called concrete shuttering plywood. Can be reused several times before being
discarded or used for other purposes. Indian standards specified in IS: 848-1974
Film-faced shuttering plywood has a shiny phenolic film over the surface, so that the concrete
does not stick to the plywood, and the dampness does not damage the ply.

Classification of plywood based on size, thickness and number of plies:

1. No. of Plies:
A plywood sheet is made up of at least 3 veneers (plies) if not more.
For example:

 3 ply
 5 ply
 13 ply etc.
(Number of plies are always an odd number)
When more number of veneers are used, the thickness as well as the cost of the plywood
increases.

2. Thickness:
● 18 mm ply
● 19 mm ply etc.
Standard size sheets are manufactured by most manufacturers across India. While thickness
is usually measured in mm (metric system), the prevalent naming convention for sheet sizes
is still in feet. Prices are also based on cost per sq. foot.

3. Sizes of the sheets:

● 6 x 4 sheet (6 feet by 4 feet)
● 8 x 4 sheet (8 feet by 4 feet) etc.

Classification of plywoods based on Indian Standards specification number:

1. IS: 303 - MR Plywood, BWP/BWR Plywood, Flexi Ply
2. IS: 710 - Marine Plywood
3. IS: 10701 - Structural plywood
4. IS: 5509-1980 - Fire Retardant Plywood
5. IS: 4990 - Shuttering Plywood
The laminates and plywood market in India still has a very large unorganized sector. This
consists of many small-scale plywood manufacturers making plywood sheets and selling it to
the local market. The bigger reputed plywood companies manufacture most of the types of
plywood, while the local brands mainly focus on Commercial MR grade plywood. Additionally,
many of the bigger plywood brands have now also ventured into the manufacturing of particle
boards and MDF boards.

Grades of Plywood in India:

Plywood is manufactured in a variety of grades in India and across the world, and just by
knowing these plywood grades we can determine the quality of the plywood and know its
potential uses.
The types of grades of plywood that are available in India are:
1. MR grade plywood:
MR stands for 'Moisture Resistant' plywood. It’s also known as Commercial plywood and is
the most commonly used material for making home and office furniture. It’s of an Interior
grade and meant for making furniture that will be used indoors.

2. BWR grade plywood:

The acronym BWR stands for 'Boiling Water Resistant'. It’s an exterior grade waterproof
plywood, that is better than MR grade plywood. It is the preferred choice of material for
making those pieces of furniture that are likely to get wet. e.g. Kitchen cabinets and other
Kitchen furniture. It's also costlier than MR grade ply.
Note: There is also another grade known as BWP, which is more commonly used with
blockboards. Similar to BWR grade plywood, BWP blockboards are also of an exterior grade
having waterproofing qualities.

3. Marine grade plywood (Marine ply):

Marine grade plywood is superior in strength and quality to both MR and BWR grades of
plywood. It's primarily used for exterior marine applications such as for building boats and for
the woodwork required to be done in ships.
Apart from these 3 basic plywood grades, there are several types of plywood such as flexible
plywood that can be rolled up into sheets and useful for making curved furniture, and FR
grade fire retardant plywood which is good at resisting fires and used in public places such as
theatres. There are also a variety of Industrial grade plywoods such as Structural plywood,
Phenolic Film-faced Concrete Shuttering plywood used in building construction work.
While there are so many types of plywood available in the market, the two most commonly
used grades for home furniture requirements are the commercial MR grade and the
Waterproof BWR grade of plywood.

Ways in which Plywood is decorated:

1. Laminates:
Laminates such as Sunmica or others (which are actually a blend of paper and plastic) are
glued over the plywood surfaces. Laminates are available in a very wide variety of colours,
patterns and textures, and is the most common way of decorating plywood furniture and
panels.

2. Paints:
Paint has for long been a way of protecting wood and increasing its beauty. It is a low-cost
alternative to laminates or veneers and a large choice of wood colours are available.
3. Polish:
Wood Polish is usually used on wooden furniture that is made of quality hardwoods such as
teak, however polishing plywood is not uncommon. Carpenters often use wood polish (of
darker colours) on some parts of furniture (such as the underside of tables and the inside
planks of single and double beds).

4. Veneer:
Wood veneers are thin slices/sheets of quality woods such as teak, which can be glued over
the plywood surface to increase its beauty and make it look richer. Most casual observers
cannot differentiate between a piece of solid teakwood furniture and one that simply has a
teak veneer on the outside. Veneers are usually the costliest way of decorating plywood.

The Manufacturing Process:

The trees used to make plywood are generally smaller in diameter than those used to make
lumber. In most cases, they have been planted and grown in areas owned by the plywood
company. These areas are carefully managed to maximize tree growth and minimize damage
from insects or fire.
Here is a typical sequence of operations for processing trees into standard 4 ft by 8 ft (1.2 m
by 2.4 m) plywood sheets:

The logs are first debarked and then cut into peeler blocks. In order to cut the blocks into
strips of veneer, they are first soaked and then peeled into strips.

● Felling the trees: -

1. Selected trees in an area are marked as being ready to be cut down, or felled. The felling
may be done with gasoline-powered chain saws or with large hydraulic shears mounted on
the front of wheeled vehicles called fellers. The limbs are removed from the fallen trees with
chain saws.
2. The trimmed tree trunks, or logs, are dragged to a loading area by wheeled vehicles called
skidders. The logs are cut to length and are loaded on trucks for the trip to the plywood mill,
where they are stacked in long piles known as log decks.

● Preparing the logs: -

3. As logs are needed, they are picked up from the log decks by rubber-tired loaders and
placed on a chain conveyor that brings them to the debarking machine. This machine removes
the bark, either with sharp-toothed grinding wheels or with jets of high-pressure water, while
the log is slowly rotated about its long axis.
4. The debarked logs are carried into the mill on a chain conveyor where a huge circular saw
cuts them into sections about 8 ft-4 in (2.5 m) to 8 ft-6 in (2.6 m) long, suitable for making
standard 8 ft (2.4 m) long sheets. These log sections are known as peeler blocks.

● Making the veneer: -

5. Before the veneer can be cut, the peeler blocks must be heated and soaked to soften the
wood. The blocks may be steamed or immersed in hot water. This process takes 12-40 hours
depending on the type of wood, the diameter of the block, and other factors.
6. The heated peeler blocks are then transported to the peeler lathe, where they are
automatically aligned and fed into the lathe one at a time. As the lathe rotates the block
rapidly about its long axis, a full-length knife blade peels a continuous sheet of veneer from
the surface of the spinning block at a rate of 300-800 ft/min (90-240 m/min). When the
diameter of the block is reduced to about 3-4 in (230-305 mm), the remaining piece of wood,
known as the peeler core, is ejected from the lathe and a new peeler block is fed into place.
7. The long sheet of veneer emerging from / the peeler lathe may be processed immediately,
or it may be stored in long, multiple-level trays or wound onto rolls. In any case, the next
process involves cutting the veneer into usable widths, usually about 4 ft-6 in (1.4 m), for
making standard 4 ft (1.2 m) wide plywood sheets. At the same time, optical scanners look
for sections with unacceptable defects, and these are clipped out, leaving less than standard
width pieces of veneer.
The wet strips of veneer are wound into a roll, while an optical scanner detects any
unacceptable defects in the wood. Once dried the veneer is graded and stacked. Selected
sections of veneer are glued together. A hot press is used to seal the veneer into one solid
piece of plywood, which will be trimmed and sanded before being stamped with its
appropriate grade.
8. The sections of veneer are then sorted and stacked according to grade. This may be done
manually, or it may be done automatically using optical scanners.
9. The sorted sections are fed into a dryer to reduce their moisture content and allow them
to shrink before they are glued together. Most plywood mills use a mechanical dryer in which
the pieces move continuously through a heated chamber. In some dryers, jets of high-
velocity, heated air are blown across the surface of the pieces to speed the drying process.
10. As the sections of veneer emerge from the dryer, they are stacked according to grade.
Under width sections have additional veneer spliced on with tape or glue to make pieces
suitable for use in the interior layers where appearance and strength are less important.
11. Those sections of veneer that will be installed crossways—the core in three-ply sheets, or
the crossbands in five-ply sheets—are cut into lengths of about 4 ft-3 in (1.3 m).

● Forming the plywood sheets: -

12. When the appropriate sections of veneer are assembled for a particular run of plywood,
the process of laying up and gluing the pieces together begins. This may be done manually or
semi-automatically with machines. In the simplest case of three-ply sheets, the back veneer
is laid flat and is run through a glue spreader, which applies a layer of glue to the upper
surface. The short sections of core veneer are then laid crossways on top of the glued back,
and the whole sheet is run through the glue spreader a second time. Finally, the face veneer
is laid on top of the glued core, and the sheet is stacked with other sheets waiting to go into
the press.
13. The glued sheets are loaded into a multiple-opening hot press. presses can handle 20-40
sheets at a time, with each sheet loaded in a separate slot. When all the sheets are loaded,
the press squeezes them together under a pressure of about 110-200 psi (7.6-13.8 bar), while
at the same time heating them to a temperature of about 230-315° F (109.9-157.2° C). The
pressure assures good contact between the layers of veneer, and the heat causes the glue to
cure properly for maximum strength. After a period of 2-7 minutes, the press is opened and
the sheets are unloaded.
14. The rough sheets then pass through a set of saws, which trim them to their final width
and length. Higher grade sheets pass through a set of 4 ft (1.2 m) wide belt sanders, which
sand both the face and back. Intermediate grade sheets are manually spot sanded to clean
up rough areas. Some sheets are run through a set of circular saw blades, which cut shallow
grooves in the face to give the plywood a textured appearance. After a final inspection, any
remaining defects are repaired.
15. The finished sheets are stamped with a grade-trademark that gives the buyer information
about the exposure rating, grade, mill number, and other factors. Sheets of the same grade-
trademark are strapped together in stacks and moved to the warehouse to await shipment.

● Quality Control: -
Just as with lumber, there is no such thing as a perfect piece of plywood. All pieces of plywood
have a certain amount of defects. The number and location of these defects determines the
plywood grade. Standards for construction and industrial plywoods are defined by Product
Standard PS1 prepared by the National Bureau of Standards and the American Plywood
Association. Standards for hardwood and decorative plywoods are defined by ANSIIHPMA HP
prepared by the American National Standards Institute and the Hardwood Plywood
Manufacturers' Association. These standards not only establish the grading systems for
plywood, but also specify construction, performance, and application criteria.

Adhesives:
Plywood is manufactured using four glue lines: A, B, C and D. The four types of bond quality
are defined in AS2754.1. The appropriate type bond must be matched to the application and
service conditions.
The bond quality of each is as follows:
Type A Bond - is a permanent bond required for all structural and marine plywoods. Using a
phenolic resin-based adhesive, it is recognisable by its black colour, which will not deteriorate
under wet conditions, heat or cold. It is also used in areas around sinks, vanity units and
laundry tubs. Marine plywood always uses a Type A bond.
Type B Bond - is appropriate for a maximum of two years' exposure for applications such as
formwork or for semi-exposed external door skins. It uses a Melamine Fortified Urea
Formaldehyde resin.

Type C Bond (interior, non-structural) - is suitable for non-structural interior applications, or

tropical locations with high humidity free from wet or damp conditions. Recognisable by its
light glue line colour, it uses a Low Extension Urea Formaldehyde and is for interior bonds
only.

Type D Bond (interior, non-structural) - is appropriate for non-structural internal low-

humidity environments such as internal panelling. It uses a High Extension Urea
Formaldehyde and like a Type C bond, its glue line is also light in colour.

Design/Engineering Considerations:
1. Curving plywood:
Plywood can be curved for use in ceilings and feature walls.

2. Acoustics and sound insulation:

Plywood is an excellent reflector of sound. A double‐sided plywood partition can reduce the noise
levels by around 35 decibels.

3. Thermal properties:
Plywood, when used in timber construction, provides a low thermal mass, making it an effective
material for use in tropical or subtropical climates. For cooler climates, the addition of insulation can
provide an equivalent thermal insulation to solid construction.

Handling, Storage & Protection:

Structural plywood requires care in storage and handling:

1. The storage area should be protected from sun, rain and wind that cause any rapid changes in
temperature and humidity. To avoid staining, fading and surface checking, the sheets should not
be exposed to the weather while awaiting installation.
2. Support for the sheets should be provided at both ends and at 600mm intermediate centres to
avoid distortion.
3. The stack should be kept dry and clear of ground contact, and be placed so that it will not be
exposed to mechanical damage.
4. The sheets should be stacked on their flat, NOT on edge.
Advantages of Plywood:
1. Good uniform strength:
Plywood is a strong material, especially if its made from strong woods (hardwoods) instead
of the weaker woods (softwoods). The image above helps illustrate where this strength comes
from. The darker lines (or the tear lines) that you see on the face of the plywood is called the
wood grain pattern. It is quite easy to tear an individual veneer along the grain, and equally
difficult to tear it across the grain. This is why, whilst making plywood the layers are arranged
such that the grain pattern alternates in each layer, and this is what makes plywood sheets
such a strong material.

2. Can be used for making interior home furniture as well as exterior furniture:
Plywood is available in different grades such as MR grade (moisture resistant) for interior use,
and BWR grade (boiling water resistant) for exterior use. So furniture that is likely to get wet,
such as that in the kitchen or the garden can be made from BWR Water-proof grade plywood,
while elsewhere such as in the living room or bedroom, the cheaper MR grade plywood can
be used. This is a distinct advantage over cheaper materials such as Particle board which is
meant for indoor use only.

3. Available in large sizes compared to solid wood:

It’s very easy to get a nice looking uniformly thick 18 mm plywood sheet of size 8'x4' (8 feet x
4 feet) from the market, but quite impractical to get solid flat wood of such a size (which tree
could be cut and how?). According to me, this is the most significant benefit that plywood
offers compared to solid wood, and that's the reason it became so popular since its discovery.
These large sized engineered plywood sheets allow for a variety of applications that would be
difficult to achieve using solid wood.

4. Economical use of wood by mixing various woods together:

Some woods are prized for their beauty (teak, oak etc.) but are also costly. The veneers of
such woods can be used to form the surface layer of the plywood, while the inner layers could
be composed of other strong but cheaper woods. Such a mix and match is possible while
constructing plywood and the financial benefits accrued from this, can be passed on to the
end consumer.

5. Available in varieties such as flexible plywood:

Several interesting varieties have now come up in plywood. One of them is flexible plywood
(also known as bendy ply). It can be rolled up or bent to form curved surfaces and allows for
more applications in furniture and home decor.

6. Lesser wastage of wood:

In comparison with the process of acquiring solid wood blocks, the plywood making process
has less wastage of material (tree logs), since both the rotary cut and slice cut methods of
making veneers do not produce too much waste. So, we can utilize more part of the tree logs
in this way.

7. Versatile material that has many applications:

Plywood sheets not only find their way into our homes, by becoming a part of our furniture,
but they also have several industrial and structural applications. e.g. Concrete shuttering
plywood, Marine plywood for boat-making etc.

8. Durable material:
Plywood furniture made from good quality hardwood (such as teak or gurjan wood) is quite
durable and lasts many long years. Not as long as solid wood pieces, but much much better
compared to the cheaper Particle board furniture, which eventually needs to be replaced.

9. Less costly compared to solid wood:

Solid wood is better, because it’s a natural product, but it’s also very costly. Plywood costs
lesser in comparison. So, a reasonable trade-off for most people is to opt for decent quality
plywood to meet their furniture requirements.

Disadvantages of plywood:
1. Water can damage MR grade plywood:
The layers of plywood can come apart on prolonged exposure to water. This drawback can be
overcome by choosing BWR Waterproof grade for plywood furniture that is likely to get wet.

2. Can bend or sag when longer pieces are used:

Plywood is not considered suitable for applications that require longer pieces of wood such
as our front doors, benches, wardrobe doors or any other place where long panels are
required. This is because plywood has a tendency to sag or bend from the middle in such
cases. The better option to overcome this disadvantage is to opt for block board, which is
technically better-suited in such cases as also cheaper than plywood.

3. Difficult to judge the quality of a plywood sheet:

As a customer, it’s difficult to judge which wood has been used for making the plywood. The
outer surface veneers can be seen, but what about the inner ones? The market has several
varieties of plywood, from locally made products to those from reputed brands. It’s important
to choose wisely and buy from a trusted source irrespective of whether we shop offline or
online.
4. Plywood usually needs additional enhancements:
Solid wood in itself looks beautiful. Whereas most commercial grade plywood on the other
hand, needs to be covered by laminates (such as Sunmica) so as to enhance its beauty and to
increase its life. These laminates when glued over the plywood also improve its resistance to
damage from water.

5. The edges also need to be covered with suitable pieces of wood:

Other than laminating the surfaces of the plywood, the edges of the wood also usually need
to be covered by gluing wooden strips over them, to make the furniture look better.

6. Costlier compared to block boards, or particle boards:

Plywood is costlier compared to particle boards or block boards. And in addition to the
material cost, the carpentry costs also get added. So for those people who are looking for
short-term furniture solutions, the ready-made furniture made from particle boards or from
the stronger MDF can be worth considering.

7. Manual and Time-consuming process:

Furniture has to be created manually using pieces of plywood, as opposed to machine
assembled MDF or Particle board furniture. Which means that making most plywood
furniture is not a one-day activity. You will need to hire a carpenter, acquire all the proper
materials, specify your exact requirements, and then wait while the carpenter does his job.
Its a slightly time-consuming process. So if as a customer, you are in a hurry, or don’t want all
this hassle, you can opt for ready-made furniture.

8. The adhesives used may be ecologically damaging:

One important aspect of plywood is that its important to check which chemical glue has been
used from sticking the veneers together. Urea formaldehyde adhesives which were used prior
to phenolic resins are not considered very safe for use, and can also pollute the environment.
Probably a reason why solid wood smells better than newly made plywood. However,
plywood made by following all the safety rules and regulations can be considered safe to use.

9. Not considered as strong as solid wood:

Plywood is not as strong as the heavier and denser solid wood (though it compares favourably
against other options such as particle boards or block boards). However the plus point is that
plywood costs lesser.
Applications:
1. Doors:
Timber is one of the most popular and superior material choices for both internal and external
doors. Whether manufactured from solid or engineered timber, there are many stylish and
practical options that won't compromise on strength and structural performance. A
distinctive timber door can also create visual impact, adding value to any commercial or
domestic building.

2. Exterior Stairs:
For outdoor applications, timber is one of the leading material choices. Timber use in external
staircase applications creates structures of strength and durability, sheathed in a natural
beauty that blends seamlessly with the outdoor environment.

3. External Cladding:
The natural appeal, versatility and strength of timber makes it the superior choice for external
cladding. Through specification, planning, design and finishing processes, timber cladding not
only creates a building of superior strength, acoustic and thermal performance but also
creates a place of beauty, style and natural appeal.

4. Flooring:
Whether for structural or finished flooring applications, timber offers durability, versatility
and adaptability. The warmth, strength and natural beauty of timber flooring has proved
enduringly popular in a wide variety of interior settings.

5. Framing:
Since people began building simple shelters, wooden framing has played an important role in
shaping structures of many kinds. One of the most popular types of wooden framing is known
as lightweight timber construction.

6. Interior Rails and Balustrades:

With its natural beauty and inherent strength, timber is a popular material choice in internal
balustrade construction. Commonly built from treated softwoods and durable hardwoods,
interior balustrades and handrails are typically finished with a clear lacquer to generate the
most natural result.

7. Interior Stairs:
Timber should be the material of choice for designers seeking internal staircases of strength,
beauty and durability. The construction procedure described here applies to most general
type stairs of either conventional or contemporary construction.
8. Internal Paneling:
Timber paneling creates interiors as warm as they are stylish. Commonly using an MDF or
plywood substrate, internal timber paneling is natural and versatile and comes as either solid
natural timber panels or as sheets of engineered wood products

9. Shear walls:
Lateral loads such as wind or earthquake on framed timber buildings - either post and beam
or stud and joist - need to be resisted and shear walls and diaphragms offer an effective and
economical solution.

10. Timber Joinery Products:

Timber joinery products offer a classic, unique and stylish touch to any interior design.

11. Timber Portal Frames:

For buildings that require large spans and column free interiors, timber portal frames provide
one of the most aesthetically pleasing solutions. Utilising modern engineering technology,
portal frame design transforms timber into a highly effective, efficient and economical
structural product. This application guide provides a comprehensive overview of the process
of using timber in the specification, fabrication and erection of portal frame structures .

Quality Check Points:

1. Shouldn't have too many core gaps (small gaps in between layers of core). Look for these
in the side profile along the length & breadth of a panel. It should look like the picture
attached below with layers running straight in parallel lines without much gaps. Some
amount of pin hole gaps (2mm - 3mm) are allowed but too many of those should serve as
a warning sign.
2. Shouldn't have too much overlapping of these layers of plies while composing. The lines
of different layers on the side profile of plywood should be running straight. If they overlap
each other too much, it’s not good. No two panels of plywood are ever alike. And no
matter which machinery anyone’s using, there will always be a couple of sheets in the lot
which just don’t fit the bill but this kind of occurrence should be less than 2-%. Therefore
look for the overall consistency in quality.
3. Nail Holding Capacity - The strength of a plywood panel is predicated on its capacity to
hold a nail while being used in furniture. Before buying a ply, ask your dealer to hammer
in a nail (1.5inch #14) into the side profile of a plywood sheet. If the layers split on nailing,
the bonding isn’t strong enough and will not work for furniture work.
4. Test reports - Any genuine manufacturer would have factory lab test reports as well third-
party test report of their plywood panels. Ask for these from the dealer before purchasing.
A good manufacturer generally also offers guarantee on the panels, ask for a certificate if
they have one.
5. Buy according to the purpose you need it for. For indoor furniture, which isn't going to be
exposed to water, use BWR grade (moisture resistant), for any furniture which has a
chance of getting in contact with water often such as kitchen furniture, use BWP (boiling
water Proof) / Marine Ply. You can test a marine ply for its waterproof characteristic by
taking a cut sample and boiling it in a pressure cooker for 7 whistles. The layers of the ply
shouldn’t delaminate in a genuine case as per standard marine ply. If it splits, it’s probably
not a marine ply.
6. Prefer Eucalyptus (red Core) plywood over Poplar as its higher in density as well as
strength. There is a myth that Gurjan is the best timber to be used in Plywood. It’s not
when you take into consideration the huge price difference and whether it justifies the
almost negligible density difference it has over Eucalyptus. It has the same performance
specifications as Eucalyptus but costs a hell lot more! Eucalyptus gets the job done and
serves the purpose your ply is intended to do for a lifetime. So instead of buying really
expensive Burmese Gurjan (which is not available in Indian anymore, imported from
Burma), go for Eucalyptus core.
7. Look for CM/L numbers stamped on top of the plywood sheets which you can look up
online to get the factory details. CM/L numbers are the license numbers of the factories
for different grades they are certified to manufacture according to the ISI norms. If the
sheet doesn’t have a CM/L number on it, move on.
8. Weight- Higher weight indicates better quality. Generally an 18mm (0.708"), 8*4 plywood
could weigh around 88lb to 95lb (on an average).

Why Does Plywood Warp?

Twist is a common type of warp with plywood. The reason is, one, that the moisture content
changed after manufacturing. Plywood is almost always a low MC product, as the heat used
in drying and gluing assures that the plywood is not wet, but rather is fairly dry.
Next, instead of cutting parallel to the bark, which minimizes warp even in sawing lumber,
veneer is cut parallel to the pith (log center). This cutting pattern means that there is slope of
grain (SOG) which in turn means that the wood is moving in all three directions, instead of
two. Twist is the common end result. That is, one corner is out of plane with the other three.
Construction plywood with warp is usually not an issue as it can be nailed or screwed flat
when used for sheathing, etc. which is what it is designed for. When construction plywood is
used for other uses, the warp is serious. One way to reduce the problem is to use a composite
core (particleboard, MDF). Another is to use a higher grade of plywood, perhaps AB.
In any case, any attempts to reduce moisture changes (storage at 35% RH is well worth the
effort, as mentioned in a previous posting) will minimize the warp issues. As an additional
note, when using plywood, it is prudent to coat both faces with the same coating system to
avoid moisture differences between the faces and warping.

Dealing with Bowed or Warped Plywood:

The half inch hollow/bow sounds pretty typical to me. The way I deal with it depends on the
season or the humidity in my shop. If I think it is dry in the shop, I will lay the plywood convex
side up so that it will start to dry and begin going hollow on that face. If I think the air in the
shop is moist, I will lay it hollow or concave side up for a while so that the hollow or dry side
will take on moisture, begin to swell and then move toward being straight.
As to the question as a whole, yes, I think you can definitely influence the shape of plywood
by the way it is stored and how it is supported, but it is a very slow process and will only be
practical if you have the time to store the material for months before you use it.
For me, I see the bow when I get the sheet into the shop and I rip the longest parts from the
straightest plywood and I stack the cut out parts on a very flat/straight surface. I monitor the
top piece on the stack/stacks and flip it face for face as it changes shape until I put in into
whatever assembly it is part of.