MULTITESTER

WHAT IS A MULTITESTER
A multitester is a devise used to measure voltage, resistance and current in electronics & electrical equipment It
is also used to test continuity between to 2 points to verify if there is any breaks in circuit or line. There are two
types of multitester Analog & Digital Analog has a needle style gauge Digital has a LCD display.

THE PARTS OF MULTITESTER AND ITS FUNCTION

1. POINTER. The needle-shaped rod that moves over
the scale of a meter. Pointer It is mechanically
connected to the moving coil. It indicates the
measured values on the multitester
2. RANGE SELECTOR KNOB (Selector switch) makes it
possible to select different functions and range of
the meter.
3. ADJUSTMENT SCREW makes it possible to adjust the
pointer to the zero position of the scale.
4. SCALE is a series of marking used for reading the
value of a quantity
SCALE -can have different types of scale, for voltage
and current readings the scales have mostly linear
which means equal division. For resistance
5. TEST PROBE positive (red), negative (black) is used
to connect the circuit to the electrical components
being tested
6. ZERO-OHM ADJUSTINGKNOB is used to zero-in the
pointer before measuring
resistance.

PROPER CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MULTI TESTER

1. Read manual of instructions on how to operate the multi-tester.
2. In reading the amount of voltage, always start with the highest range to avoid reading voltage higher than
the tester setting.
3. Be sure that the tester is set to the correct range setting: resistance range when measuring the ohm, voltage
range when measuring voltage and ammeter range when measuring the value of electric current.
4. Always check the condition of its battery. Worn out batteries will damage the internal setting of the tester.
5. When the tester is not in used or will be stored, set the selector switch to 1000V or to OFF position.
6. Never drop the tester.

COMMON MULTITESTER SYMBOLS

~ AC Voltage Ground
These symbols are often found on multitester
--- DC Voltage ( Capacitor
and schematics. They are designed to
Hz Hertz mF MicroFarad
symbolize components and reference values.
+ Positive m Micro
- Negative m Milli
W Ohms M Mega
* Diode K Kilo
))) Audible Continuity OL Overload

MEASURING VOLTAGE
 Voltage (V) is the unit of electrical pressure; one volt is the potential difference needed to cause one amp of
current to pass through one ohm of resistance
 Voltage is broke up into 2 sections AC & DC
Alternating Current (AC) is house voltage (110vac)
Direct Current (DC) is battery voltage (12vdc)
 On switched meters use one value higher than your expected value.
 Be very careful to not touch any other electronic components within the equipment and do not touch the
tips to each other while connected to anything else
 To measure voltage, connect the leads in parallel between the two points where the measurement is to be
made. The multitester provides a parallel pathway so it needs to be of a high resistance to allow as little
current flow through it as possible

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MEASURING RESISTANCE AND CONTINUITY
 Resistance (W) is the opposition to current
 Resistance is measured in Ohm's
 Disconnect power source before testing
 Remove component or part from system before testing
 Measure using lowest value, if OL move to next level
 Testing for continuity is used to test to verify if a circuit, wire or fuse is complete with no open
 Audible continuity allows an alarm if circuit is complete
 If there is no audible alarm resistance of 1ohm to .1ohm should be present

MEASURING CURRENT
 Current (amps) is the flow of electrical charge though a component or conductor
 Current is measured in amps or amperes
 Disconnect power source before testing
 Disconnect completed circuit at end of circuit
 Place multitester in series with circuit
 Reconnect power source and turn ON
 Select highest current setting and work your way down.

ELECTRICAL WIRES & CABLES

Understanding Electrical Wire
More often than not, the terms wire and cable are used to describe the same thing, but they
are actually quite different. Wire is a single electrical conductor, whereas a cable is a group of wires
swathed in sheathing. The term cable originally referred to a nautical line of multiple ropes used to
anchor ships, and in an electrical context, cables (like wires) are used to carry electrical currents.
Whether indoors or outdoors, proper wire and cable installation is of paramount importance -
ensuring a smooth electricity supply, as well as passing electrical inspections. Each wire and cable
needs to be installed carefully, from the fuse box to the outlets, fixtures and appliances. The National
Electrical Code (NEC) and Local Building Codes regulate the manner of installation and the types of
wires and cables for various electrical applications.
Some factors that will affect your choice of electrical wiring include color, label information and
applications. The information printed on the wire covering is all that you need to choose the correct
wire for your home. Here’s some detailed information on the various features of electrical wire, which
will help you choose the correct composition:

DETAILED INFORMATION ON THE VARIOUS FEATURES OF ELECTRICAL WIRE

 1. Size of Wires – Each application requires a certain wire size for installation, and the right size for a
specific application is determined by the wire gauge. Sizing of wire is done by the American wire
gauge system. Common wire sizes are 10, 12 and 14 – a higher number means a smaller wire size,
and affects the amount of power it can carry. For example, a low-voltage lamp cord with 10 Amps
will require 18-gauge wire, while service panels or subpanels with 100 Amps will require 2-gauge
wire.
 2. Wire Lettering – The letters THHN, THWN, THW and XHHN represent the main insulation types of
individual wires. These letters depict the following NEC requirements:.
T – Thermoplastic insulation
H – Heat resistance
HH – High heat resistance (up to 194°F)
W – Suitable for wet locations
N – Nylon coating, resistant to damage by oil or gas
X – Synthetic polymer that is flame-resistant
 3. Types of Wires – There are mainly 5 types of wire:

TYPE OF WIRES
 Triplex Wires : Triplex wires are usually used in single-phase service drop conductors,
between the power pole and weather heads. They are composed of two insulated
aluminum wires wrapped with a third bare wire which is used as a common neutral. The
neutral is usually of a smaller gauge and grounded at both the electric meter and the
transformer.

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  Main Feeder Wires : Main power feeder wires are the wires that connect the service
weather head to the house. They’re made with stranded or solid THHN wire and the cable
installed is 25% more than the load required.
 Panel Feed Wires : Panel feed cables are generally black insulated THHN wire. These are
used to power the main junction box and the circuit breaker panels. Just like main power
feeder wires, the cables should be rated for 25% more than the actual load.
 Non-Metallic Sheathed Wires : Non-metallic sheath wire, or Romex, is used in most homes
and has 2-3 conductors, each with plastic insulation, and a bare ground wire. The
individual wires are covered with another layer of non-metallic sheathing. Since it’s
relatively cheaper and available in ratings for 15, 20 and 20 amps, this type is preferred
for in-house wiring.
 Single Strand Wires : Single strand wire also uses THHN wire, though there are other
variants. Each wire is separate and multiple wires can be drawn together through a pipe
easily. Single strand wires are the most popular choice for layouts that use pipes to
contain wires.
 4. Color Codes – Different color wires serve different purposes, like:.
Black : Hot wire, for switches or outlets.
Red : Hot wire, for switch legs. Also for connecting wire between 2 hardwired smoke
detectors.
Blue and Yellow : Hot wires, pulled in conduit. Blue for 3-4 way switch application, and
yellow for switch legs to control fan, lights etc.
White : Always neutral.
Green and Bare Copper : Only for grounding.
 5. Wire Gauge, Ampacity and Wattage Load – To determine the correct wire, it is important to
understand what ampacity and wattage a wire can carry per gauge. Wire gauge is the size of the
wire, ampacity is how much electricity can ow through the wire and wattage is the load a wire can
take, which is always mentioned on the appliances..
An electrical cable also has different types, color and application as its determining factors. Here’s
a brief about cables that you need to understand to determine the correct cable for your home.

TYPES OF ELECTRICAL CABLES

 Types of Electrical Cables – There are more than 20 different types of cables available today,
designed for applications ranging from transmission to heavy industrial use. Some of the most
commonly-used ones include:.
 Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable: These cables are also known as non-metallic building wire or NM
cables. They feature a flexible plastic jacket with two to four wires (TECK cables are covered with
thermoplastic insulation) and a bare wire for grounding. Special varieties of this cable are used for
underground or outdoor use, but NM-B and NM-C non-metallic sheathed cables are the most
common form of indoor residential cabling.
 Underground Feeder Cable : These cables are quite similar to NM cables, but instead of each wire
being individually wrapped in thermoplastic, wires are grouped together and embedded in the
flexible material. Available in a variety of gauge sizes, UF cables are often used for outdoor lighting
and in-ground applications. Their high water-resistance makes them ideal for damp areas like
gardens as well as open-to-air lamps, pumps, etc.
 Metallic Sheathed Cable : Also known as armored or BX cables, metal-sheathed cables are often
used to supply mains electricity or for large appliances. They feature three plain stranded copper
wires (one wire for the current, one grounding wire and one neutral wire) that are insulated with
cross-linked polyethylene, PVC bedding and a black PVC sheathing. BX cables with steel wire
sheathing are often used for outdoor applications and high-stress installations.
 Multi-Conductor Cable : This is a cable type that is commonly used in homes, since it is simple to
use and well-insulated. Multi-conductor or multi-core (MC) cables feature more than one
conductor, each of which is insulated individually. In addition, an outer insulation layer is added for
extra security. Different varieties are used in industries, like the audio multicore ‘snake cable’ used
in the music industry.
 Coaxial Cable : A coaxial (sometimes heliax) cable features a tubular insulating layer that protects
an inner conductor which is further surrounded by a tubular conducting shield, and might also
feature an outer sheath for extra insulation. Called ‘coaxial’ since the two inner shields share the
same geometric axis, these cables are normally used for carrying television signals and connecting
video equipment.
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 Unshielded Twisted Pair Cable : Like the name suggests, this type consists of two wires that are
twisted together. The individual wires are not insulated, which makes this cable perfect for signal
transmission and video applications. Since they are more affordable than coaxial or optical ber
cables, UTP cables are often used in telephones, security cameras and data networks. For indoor
use, UTP cables with copper wires or solid copper cores are a popular choice, since they are exible
and can be easily bent for in-wall installation.
 Ribbon Cable : Ribbon cables are often used in computers and peripherals, with various
conducting wires that run parallel to each other on a at plane, leading to a visual resemblance to
at ribbons. These cables are quite exible and can only handle low voltage applications.
 Direct-Buried Cable : Also known as DBCs, these cables are specially-designed coaxial or bundled
ber-optic cables, which do not require any added sheathing, insulation or piping before being
buried underground. They feature a heavy metal core with many layers of banded metal
sheathing, heavy rubber coverings, shock-absorbing gel and waterproof wrapped thread-fortied
tape. High tolerance to temperature changes, moisture and other environmental factors makes
them a popular choice for transmission or communication requirements.
 Twin-Lead Cable : These are at two-wire cables that are used for transmission between an antenna
and receiver, like TV and radio.
 Twinaxial Cable : This is a variant of coaxial cables, which features two inner conductors instead of
one and is used for very-short-range high-speed signals.
 Paired Cable : With two individually insulated conductors, this cable is normally used in DC or low-
frequency AC applications.
 Twisted Pair : This cable is similar to paired cables, but the inner insulated wires are twisted or
intertwined.
 2. Cable Color Code – Color coding of cable insulation is done to determine active, neutral and
earth conductors. The NEC has not prescribed any color for phase/active conductors. Different
countries/regions have different cable color coding, and it is essential to know what is applicable
in your region. However, active conductors cannot be green/yellow, green, yellow, light blue or
black..
 3. Cable Size – Cable size is the gauge of individual wires within the cable, such as 14, 12, 10 etc. –
again, the bigger the number, the smaller the size. The number of wires follows the wiregauge on a
cable. So, 10/3 would indicate the presence of 3 wires of 10-gauge within the cable. Ground wire,
if present, is not indicated by this number, and is represented by the letter ‘G’ .
 Safety is very important, and if your installation of wires and cables is not proper, it could lead to
accidents. Before you start any electrical project that includes wiring and cabling, you need to
obtain permission from your local building inspector. Once the job is done, get the installation
inspected for compliance with local codes and regulations.

KINDS OF SPLICES AND JOINTS

 A SPLICE JOINT When working with electronic equipment or with electrical wiring, it may from time
to time become necessary to splice or join wires together. Splices means joining or connecting.
Splices and joints are essentially the same thing. Several different methods of doing this exist. The
fundamental necessities of an effective splice include making sure the wires are securely fastened
to each other even without solder and that they are well-soldered to avoid corrosion. All wire
joints must also be taped with electrical tape after soldering.

 A SPLICE JOINT is a method of joining two members end to end in woodworking. The splice joint is
used when the material being joined is not available in the length required. It is an alternative to
other joints such as the butt joint and the scarf joint. Splice joints are stronger than unenforced butt
joints and have the potential to be stronger than a scarf joint.
 Splices are therefore most often used when structural elements are required in longer lengths than
the available material. The most common form of the splice joint is the half lap splice, which is
common in building construction, where it is used to join shorter lengths of timber into longer beams.

WHAT ARE THE IMPORTANCE OF SPLICES AND JOINTS?

 The connections must be well made and the wires tightly joined to prevent a loss of voltage to the
device powered. In high current situations a poor connection causes heat at the connection and
oxidiation of the wires and no more or intermittent connections.
 Most problems in electrical is not a short but: an open connection.

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 In the case of high-voltage underground cables, the restoration of the insulation is critically
important, as is restoring the cable's waterproof integrity. The skills required are such that cable
jointers serve a full apprenticeship in that particular trade.

TYPE OF ELECTRICAL SPLICES AND JOINTS

 The WESTERN UNION splice works best to splice together small, solid conductors. It is the most
common type of wire splice. To make the Western Union splice,
1. first remove about five inches of insulation from both wires and cross the exposed wires.
2. Wrap one wire around the other five or six times, and
3. then do the same with the other.
4. Cut the excess wire off and pinch the ends down with pliers.
5. Solder the joint together and wrap tape around it.
 TAP SPLICE, also called a tap joint, is used to connect a conductor to a running wire. To make a tap
splice,
1. strip about 1½ inches off the running wire.
2. Take the connecting wire and wrap it once around the running wire.
3. Now wrap the end of the wire through the loop you just made.
4. Then wrap the connecting wire around the running wire about six times. Make sure the wire
points away from the original turn.
5. Solder the joint and wrap tape around it.
 FIXTURE SPLICES, OR FIXTURE JOINTS, are used to connect wires of different sizes.
1. This joint requires five inches of insulation stripped off the wire.
2. Hold the wires together and then twist them a few times with a pair of pliers.
3. Both wires must twist for the joint to be tight.
4. Cut both ends of wire so that they are the same length, and then take the twisted joint and
bend it so that it lines up with the wires.
5. Take the cut ends and extend them perpendicular to the wire and the twisted portion.
6. Wrap these two ends in the same direction as the twist.
7. Solder the joint together and wrap tape around it.
 RAT-TAIL SPLICE, also known as a twist splice or a pig-tail splice, is a very basic electrical splice that
can be done with both solid stranded wire. It is made by taking two or more bare wires of the same
diameter and wrapping them together symmetrically around each a common axis. The bare splice
can be insulated with electrical tape or other means.

 This common and simple splice is not very strong mechanically. It can be made stronger by coating
it with solder, or it can be twisted and then held in place by the internal metal spring or threads of
a twist on wire connection, also called a wire nut. Because it is not very strong, the splice is not
meant to connect wires that will be pulled or stressed. Rather, it is intended for wires that are
protected inside an enclosure or junction box,

 A BRITANNIA SPLICE, also known as a cable spice, is not easy or neither difficult in doing. This splice
is applied on both inside and outside of the building to big solid wire where twisting is difficult but
there is an equipment to lessen the difficulty on doing this kind of splice.

 A THROUGH FIXTURE JOIN is used where fixture leads are connected to branched wire in an
immediate point.
 A UNDERWRITER'S KNOT, also known as Pretzel Knot, is used in making drop cord, tie an underwriter
knot at the top so the weight is supported not by the copper conductors where they are connected
to the terminals, but by the knot.
 A DOUBLE-CROSSED JOIN, is used in the same manner as the ordinary-crossed join with the
advantage of being stronger.

SOLDERING
 What Is Soldering? Soldering is the process of joining two or more electronic parts together by
melting solder around the connection. Solder is a metal alloy and when it cools it creates a strong
electrical bond between the parts. Even though soldering can create a permanent connection, it
can also be reversed using a desoldering tool as described below.

SOLDERING TOOLS
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 A soldering iron is a hand tool that plugs into a standard 220v AC outlet and heats up in order to
melt solder around electrical connections. This is one of the most important tools used in soldering
and it can come in a few variations such as pen or gun form.
 A soldering station is a more advanced version of the basic standalone soldering pen. If you are
going to be doing a lot of soldering, these are great to have as they offer more flexibility and
control. The main benefit of a soldering station is the ability to precisely adjust the temperature of
the soldering iron which is great for a range of projects.
 At the end of most soldering irons is an interchangeable part known as a soldering tip. There are
many variations of this tip and they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Each tip is used for
a specific purpose and offers a distinct advantage over another. The most common tips you will
use in electronics projects are the conical tip and the chisel tip.
 Conical Tip – Used in precision electronics soldering because of the fine tip. Because of its pointed
end, it’s able to deliver heat to smaller areas without affecting its surroundings.
 Chisel Tip – This tip is well-suited to soldering wires or other larger components because of its broad
flat tip.
 Brass or Conventional Sponge Using a sponge will help to keep the soldering iron tip clean by
removing the oxidation that forms. Tips with oxidation will tend to turn black and not accept solder
as it did when it was new. You could use a conventional wet sponge but this tends to shorten the
lifespan of the tip due to expansion and contraction. Also, a wet sponge will drop the temperature
of the tip temporarily when wiped. A better alternative is to use a brass sponge as shown on the
left.
 A soldering iron stand is very basic but very useful and handy to have. This stand helps prevent the
hot iron tip from coming in contact with flammable materials or causing accidental injury to your
hand. Most soldering stations come with this built in and also include a sponge or brass sponge for
cleaning the tip.
 Solder is a metal alloy material that is melted to create a permanent bond between electrical
parts. It comes in both lead and lead-free variations with diameters of .032″ and .062″ being the
most common. Inside the solder core is a material known as flux which helps improve electrical
contact and its mechanical strength.
 For electronics soldering, the most commonly used type is lead-free rosin core solder. This type of
solder is usually made up of a Tin/Copper alloy. You can also use leaded 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead)
rosin core solder but it’s becoming less popular due to health concerns. If you do use lead solder,
make sure you have proper ventilation and that you wash your hands after use.
 When buying solder, make sure NOT to use acid core solder as this will damage your circuits and
components. Acid core solder is sold at home improvement stores and is mainly used for plumbing
and metal working.
 A helping hand is a device that has 2 or more alligator clips and sometimes a magnifying glass/light
attached. This clips will assist you by holding the items you are trying to solder while you use the
soldering iron and solder. A very helpful tool to have in your makerspace.

SOLDERING SAFETY
 Now that you know what tools and materials are required, it’s time to briefly discuss ways of staying
safe while soldering.
 Soldering irons can reach temperatures of 800′ F so it’s very important to know where your iron is at
all times. We always recommend you use a soldering iron stand to help prevent accidental burns
or damage.
 Make sure you are soldering in a well ventilated area. When solder is heated, there are fumes
released that are harmful to your eyes and lungs. It’s recommended to use a fume extractor which
is a fan with a charcoal filter that absorbs the harmful solder smoke.
 It’s always a good idea to wear protective eye wear in case of accidental splashes of hot
solder. Lastly, make sure to wash your hands when done soldering especially if using lead solder.

TINNING THE TIP

 Before you can start soldering, you need to prep your soldering iron by tinning the tip with
solder. This process will help improve the heat transfer from the iron to the item you’re
soldering. Tinning will also help to protect the tip and reduce wear.
 Step 1: Begin by making sure the tip is attached to the iron and screwed tightly in place.

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 Step 2: Turn on your soldering iron and let it heat up. If you have a soldering station with an
adjustable temp control, set it to 400′ C/ 752′ F.
 Step 3: Wipe the tip of the soldering iron on a damp wet sponge to clean it. Wait a few seconds to
let the tip heat up again before proceeding to step 4.
 Step 4: Hold the soldering iron in one hand and solder in the other. Touch the solder to the tip of
the iron and make sure the solder flows evenly around the tip.

HOW TO SOLDER
 Step 1: Mount The Component – Begin by inserting the leads of the LED into the holes of the circuit
board. Flip the board over and bend the leads outward at a 45′ angle. This will help the
component make a better connection with the copper pad and prevent it from falling out while
soldering.
 Step 2: Apply Solder To Joint – Continue holding the soldering iron on the copper pad and the lead
and touch your solder to the joint. IMPORTANT – Don’t touch the solder directly to the tip of the
iron. You want the joint to be hot enough to melt the solder when it’s touched. If the joint is too
cold, it will form a bad connection.
 Step 3: Apply Solder To Joint – Continue holding the soldering iron on the copper pad and the lead
and touch your solder to the joint. IMPORTANT – Don’t touch the solder directly to the tip of the
iron. You want the joint to be hot enough to melt the solder when it’s touched. If the joint is too
cold, it will form a bad connection.

 Step 4: Snip The Leads – Remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool down naturally. Don’t
blow on the solder as this will cause a bad joint. Once cool, you can snip the extra wire from leads.
 A proper solder joint is smooth, shiny and looks like a volcano or cone shape. You want just enough
solder to cover the entire joint but not too much so it becomes a ball or spills to a nearby lead or
joint.

HOW TO SOLDER WIRES

 Now it’s time to show you how to solder wires together. For this process, it’s recommended to use
helping hands or other type of clamp device.
 Begin by removing the insulation from the ends of both wires you are soldering together. If the wire
is stranded, twist the strands together with your fingers.
 Make sure your soldering iron is fully heated and touch the tip to the end of one of the wires. Hold
it on the wire for 3-4 seconds.
 Keep the iron in place and touch the solder to the wire until it’s fully coated. Repeat this process
on the other wire.
 Hold the two tinned wires on top of each other and touch the soldering iron to both wires. This
process should melt the solder and coat both wires evenly.
 Remove the soldering iron and wait a few seconds to let the soldered connection cool and
harden. Use heat shrink to cover the connection.

DESOLDERING
 The good thing about using solder is the fact that it can be removed easily in a technique known
as desoldering. This comes in handy if you need to remove a component or make a correction to
your electronic circuit.
 To desolder a joint, you will need solder wick which is also known as desoldering braid.
 Step 1: Place a piece of the desoldering braid on top of the joint/solder you want removed.
 Step 2: Heat your soldering iron and touch the tip to the top of the braid. This will heat the solder
below which will then be absorbed into the desoldering braid. You can now remove the braid to
see the solder has been extracted and removed. Be careful touching the braid when you are
heating it because it will get hot.
 Step 3: If you have a lot of solder you want removed, you may want to use a device called a solder
sucker. This is a handheld mechanical vacuum that sucks up hot solder with a press of a button.
 To use, press the plunger down at the end of the solder sucker. Heat the joint with your soldering
iron and place the tip of the solder sucker over the hot solder. Press the release button to suck up
the liquid solder. In order to empty the solder sucker, press down on the plunger.

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