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Out of these segments, makeup and colour cosmetics is forecast to record the
highest growth rate at 9.2% (source: Business Wire) in the next five years. This
increase is not surprising. Changing consumer lifestyles, increased exposure to
fashion and glamour, accessibility to a wider range of makeup products and
rising disposable incomes are some of the reasons behind the growth of this
segment. It is this demand that drives constant innovation; to give something new
to the fickle and fussy consumer.
One such novel product is the BB (beauty balm) cream, which claims to combine
its primary benefits from three different segments – sun care, skincare and colour
cosmetics – and provides an all-in-one solution that contains SPF (sun protection
factor), moisturiser, foundation and in some cases, even anti-ageing ingredients.
The cream, although formulated by a German dermatologist in 1960, gained
massive popularity in the Korean beauty market (which is worth $13 billion and is
well-known for using ‘natural’ and unconventional ingredients such as snail
mucin, green tea, maple tree sap and bee venom in its skincare products), before
making its way to the Western markets. Apart from the novelty factor, BB creams’
relatively-affordable price points and multi-functionality (save time) have been the
key reasons behind their success worldwide. This is also why the primary target
audience of BB creams are women aged between 16 and 35 who don’t have a
lot of spare time and often, limited budgets.
In Pakistan, the major players which offer a BB cream in their portfolio include
L’Oreal, Pond’s, Unilever Fair & Lovely and J Dot. L’Oreal was the first to launch
this cream (under the Garnier brand) in Pakistan in 2013. Maybelline, another
L’Oreal brand, also has a BB cream but is not as aggressively marketed in
Pakistan as the Garnier BB cream.
According to Hassan Umar, Group Product Manager, Garnier skin care, L’Oreal,
“we identified a shift in Pakistani women – they wanted to move beyond fairness
creams and towards acquiring a healthier, smoother-looking skin. Our research
showed that they were mixing at least three different products to achieve the
perfect look – a moisturiser, foundation or base and some form of sun
protection.” It was these changing needs that were the reason behind the launch
of Garnier BB cream in Pakistan.
In contrast, Fair & Lovely is available in only one shade and skin type and is
priced at Rs 135 (18 gms) and Rs 299 (40 gms). The cream was initially
introduced in India in 2015. “India is a huge market, so most of our new products
are introduced there. Later, we decided to roll it out in Pakistan, which is a similar
market in terms of consumer behaviour patterns,” says Mehreen Siddiqui,
Assistant Brand Manager, Unilever.
On the subject of the price, Sana Nusrat, Makeup Consultant, J Dot Makeup,
says that “unlike other local brands, our BB cream is made from natural, organic
ingredients with no chemical preservatives to prolong shelf life. We are as good
as any international brand.”
While J Dot’s primary target audience are women from the SEC A and B and the
product is only available at J Dot retail outlets, Fair & Lovely’s BB cream aims to
reach a wider audience. According to Siddiqui, “our product democratises BB
creams; affordable for almost everyone and available even in small grocery
or kiryana stores.” Garnier seems to have taken a middle route, with its product
available at hyper and supermarkets, cosmetic stores and e-commerce platforms
such as Daraz.pk.
Nusrat of J Dot Makeup concurs. “There is room for everyone. Right now we
need to educate women on how to use the product, create awareness about how
harmful fairness creams can be and why it’s important to use sun protection with
your makeup – our beauty advisors do this at the outlets. We haven’t released
any major marketing campaign to promote the cream.”
Despite the attention that BB creams have attracted, makeup and skincare
aficionados and experts have reservations. In an article published in The
Huffington Post, Los Angeles-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Harold Lancer
says, “BB creams are a brilliant marketing concept. However, one cream that fits
all is a false notion. There is some modest-benefit moisturising, but it should not
replace any other vital steps in skincare.”