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Graduation Project 2018

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata

Report on Graduation Project at

Arvind Goodhill Suit Manufacturing Pvt Ltd.

Mentored By- Submitted By-

Mr. Bikas Agrawal Abhilekh Thakur

Asst. Prodessor Gufran Ahmad

NIFT, Kolkata B. F. Tech (2014-18)

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This project would not have been possible to come into reality without the support of
ALMIGHTY and the kind support and help of many individuals and organizations. We would
like to extend our sincere thanks to all of them. We would also like to thanks our parents
who gave us moral support during our research work on this project.

First of all, we would like to thanks our Mentor Mr. Bikas Agrawal for providing us
continuous guidance and helping us in the completion of this project.

We would like to express my immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to Arvind


Goodhill Suit Manufacturing Pvt. Ltd. for giving us an opportunity to pursue our Graduation
Project.

We would like to record our deepest sense of gratitude to Mr. Ravi Bhargava, CEO, Mr Arun
Babu, General Manager(Operations), Mr Mahesh Rao, (Quality Head) ,Mr Sameer Sinha
(Head-I.E.) from the Arvind Goodhill Suit Mfg. for their supervision, advice, valuable support
and guidance from the very early stage of the course of our Graduation Project, which
enabled us to proceed in the right direction and accomplish the mission of our work.

Mr. Ratikanta Das(Manager Quality), Mr Vasava Kumar Swamy (Producton Manager), Mr.
Naveen from the Quality and Production department for their cooperation and precious
inputs on each and every step of our Graduation Project.

We would also thank Mr. Sijeesh(I.E.) and Mr Shantanu(I.E.) for their constant support
during the Project.

We would also thank Mr. Dinesh Pandey and Mr. Devraj and (Quality Line in charge) of
Jacket Line for supporting us in the Graduation Project.

At the last we would like to thanks Mr. Saju KP (Head-Human Resource) for constant
keeping up our spirit during the Project.

It would not have been possible without the kind support and help of many individuals in
the Organization.

Thank You!

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Graduation Project 2018

Graduation Project Topic:- Implementing Quality


Management System & Visual Control System in
Production Floor by First Time Through (FTT)

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ARVIND LIMITED
INTRODUCTION

Arvind Limited (formerly Arvind Mills) is a textile manufacturer and the flagship company of
the Lalbhai Group. Its headquarters is in Naroda, Ahmedabad, and Gujarat, India. It has units
at Santej (near Kalol). It manufactures cotton shirting, denim, knits and bottom weight
(khaki) fabrics. It has also recently ventured into technical textiles when it started Advanced
Materials Division in 2011. It is India's largest denim manufacturer apart from being the
world’s fourth-largest producer and exporter of denim.

HISTORY & OPERATIONS

 1897 – Arvind Mills starts business for sarees


 1931 – Arvind Mills Ltd was incorporated with share capital ₹165,000 ($55,000) in
Ahmedabad. The products manufactured were dhotis, sarees, shirting, coats, printed
lawns and voiles cambric’s, twills and gaberdine.
 1987 – The Company took up a modernization programmer to triple the production
of denim cloth and to produce double yarn fabrics for exports. The new product
groups identified were the indigo dyed blue denim, high quality two-ply fabrics for
exports, and products such as sarees, full viols and dhotis.
 1991 – Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year, becoming the fourth
largest producer of denim in the world.
 1992 – The company increased its production of denim cloth by 23,000 tons per day
by modernizing the plant at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles.
 1994 – The company's operations were divided into textile, telecom and garments
divisions.
 1995 – The garment division launched ready to stitch jeans pack under the brand Ruf
& Tuf.
 1997 – The marketing and distribution network of the Newport brand was
strengthened and the relaunched Flying Machine and Ruggers brand were
strengthened.
 Arvind Mills set up an anti-piracy cell for the first time in India to curb large
scale counterfeiting of their brands Ruf &Tuf and Newport jeans.

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 Arvind Fashions doubled its capacity in the manufacturing facility in


Bangalore to produce Lee jeans.
 1998 – Arvind Mills emerged as the world's third largest manufacturer of denim.
 Arvind Mills went live with SAP R/3 ERP package in April 1997 in their new
manufacturing units.
 2003 – For the fourth quarter, Arvind Mills saw a 280% growth in net profit.
 Arvind Mills Ltd was assigned a "P1+" rating by CRISIL, which indicated a very
strong rating for their commercial paper.
 2005 – For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind Mills posted a profit growth in excess
of 80%.
 Arvind Mills bought entire stake in Arvind Brands from ICICI Ventures.
 2007 – Arvind expanded its presence in the brands and retail segment by
establishing MegaMart, one of India's largest value retail chains.
 2010 – Arvind launched the Arvind Store, a concept putting the company's best
fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof.
 Arvind launched its first major real estate projects.
 Arvind became one of India's largest producers of fire protection fabrics.
 2012 – joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass fabrics
 2014 – joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India
 Launched formal suits with Goodhill Corporation Limited of Japan
 2014 – joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-woven
fabrics, the project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah
 2014 – forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing brand Create
 2015 - The Company published its maiden Sustainability Report
 2016 – The Company completely entered online retailing and reached a revenue of
5,407.26INR crore (US$ 840 million)

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BUSINESS

 Fabric
o Denim
o Shirtings
o Khakis
o Knitwear
o Voile
 Garment exports
o Shirts
o Jeans
 Arvind Brands (owned)
o Flying Machine
o Newport
o Quads
o Ruf &Tuf
o Excalibur
o Arvind RTW (Exclusively available at The Arvind Stores)
 Arvind Brands
o Arrow
o Gap Inc.
o Lee
o Wrangler
o Gant U.S.A.
o Tommy Hilfiger
o Ed Hardy
o Izod
o Cherokee
o Massimo
o U.S. Polo Assn.
o Billabong
o Nautica
o Aeropostale
 Advanced Materials Division
 EBO (exclusive brand outlet) / The Arvind Store
 Telecommunications service provider
 Engineering
 Real estate
 Mega Mart Retail

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ARVIND GOODHILL SUIT MANUFACTURING LTD

Arvind Goodhill Suit Manufacturing Ltd, a venture of apparel maker Arvind Ltd and Japan’s
Goodhill Corp. Ltd, it launched its formal suits business in 2014.

“With Goodhill’s design and process technology, we will be able to target the premium
market and offer our customers a product made in India and marked to perfection,”
Arvind’s executive director Kulin Lalbhai said. “Suits is an under-serviced market in India.”

Arvind, which gets a majority of its sales from supplying fabric, garments and denims to
retailers, has been building its brands business and tying up with many international labels
including Tommy Hilfiger, Arrow and Elle to sell their products in India.

Arvind’s own brands include Colt and Excalibur as well as the retail chain Megamart.

The joint venture firm has set up a suits manufacturing facility based out of the
Bommansandra Industrial Area in Bangalore to produce high-end formal suits catering to
the needs of both Indian and overseas customers. Started with two lines each for jackets
and trousers, with a capacity to produce 350,000 pieces of jackets and 600,000 pairs of
trousers annually, it expects to achieve a turnover of around Rs. 100 crores in the first year
of operation.

This unit manufactures suits and formal trousers catering largely to the export markets.

This state-of-the-art manufacturing facility has an annual capacity of 960000 suits and
trousers. With a total plant, built-up area of 90,000 square feet, the facility houses specially
imported state-of-art manufacturing equipment. The major market for the firm is USA, and
other markets are Canada and Mexico.

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COMPANY PROFILE

NAME OF THE COMPANY ARVIND GOODHILL SUITS MFG.


LTD.

ADDRESS 63, Bommasandra Industrial


Area,

Bengaluru, Karnataka-560099

HEAD OFFICE Naroda, Ahmedabad

YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT 2014

NATURE OF BUSINESS Exporters

PRODUCT CATEGORY Jackets and Trousers

MAIN EXPORT MARKET US, MEXICO & CANADA

BUYER Calvin Klein, J.S. Marketing,


Arrow, Michael Kors, DKNY

PRODUCTION CAPACITY 80,000 pcs per month

AREA 90,000 square feet

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ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

Mr. Arun Babu

(Operation Head)

Mr. Sameer Sinha

(Technical Head)

Mr. Sanjay Joshi

(Marketing Head)
Mr. Ravi Bharghav

(CEO)

Mr. Dharam Ranjan

(Accounts Head)

Mr. Dhruv Singh

(MTM)

Mr. Saju KP

(HR Head)

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Quality Assurance in Arvind Goodhill Suit Manufacturing


The objective of the quality assurance and control department is to deliver quality product
by thoroughly checking the quality of the product produced by the production department
as per the requirement of the buyer.

Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The
Quality Assurance Department‘s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the
fabric and trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The
operation continues throughout cutting and sewing process.

After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department a detailed
quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally approve the
trousers and jackets for packing.

The objective of quality department is to impart quality in the product

 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
 To restrict the defects entering into the final product

Objectives:

 To check the products for any defects


 To send back the pieces for alteration
 To recheck the altered pieces for any defects possible
 To clear the product for packing and shipment

QUALITY IN SEWING

 100% inspection of jacket & trouser is practiced in the company.


 Parts
1. Front & Back inspection report of Quality checking.
2. Front Measurement inspection random.
3. Lining inspection Quality report.
 End line
1. End line Inspection report for 100% inspection.
2. End line inspection report for random measurement

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 Zone A-Top Quality Surface exposed to close customer scrutiny & affecting the
finished appearance of garment. (Front & Back Section of Jacket)
 Zone B-Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing (Under
Sleeve & Upper Sleeve)
 Zone C-Internal Surface that are somewhat hidden from Customer view. (Inside of
Jacket i.e. lining)
-www.arvind.com

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Graduation Project Work:

Introduction-For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name
amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality.
Especially businesses engaged in export have to sustain a high level of quality to ensure
better business globally. The scenario today seen in global economic condition is rapid,
where more focus is given on profit margin, customer demand for high quality product and
improved productivity. The major challenges which are being faced by all countries apparel
exporters are to bring effective solution to increase quality of product in the apparel
manufacturing. Quality is a keyhole for global competition. For apparel industry, product
quality and productivities are calculated right from the initial stage of raw material to the
stage of finished garment. The quality control of garment industry normally depends on raw
material, employee, machinery of the company. For a garment exporter there are many
strategies and rules that are required to be followed to achieve good business. The fabric
quality, product quality, delivery, price, packaging and presentation are some of the many
aspects that need to be taken care in garment export business.

In garment manufacturing, post-shipment rejection of few garments is a very usual


occurrence. Reason being most of the manufacturers believe that garments are soft goods
and non-repairable defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or faulty process or
employee casual behaviour. However, factory must have check points to control over issue.
There is no ready-made solution that can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order
is unique. Most of the organization termed these garments as rejected because they can’t
be repaired by any means. Rework in the garments industry is a common work that
hampers the smooth production rate and poor products having an impact on overall factory
economy.

Minimization of rework is a must for quality and productivity improvement. Rework is a vital
issue for poor quality product and low production rate. Reworks are the non-productive
activities focusing on any activity that customer does not consider as adding value to his
product. By reacting quicker in minimization of reworks to make a product as per customer
demand with expected quality, the company can do some cost savings.

In the recent time garments sector is becoming more volatile day by day. Garments styles
are changing rapidly. However, buyers are more inimical with lead time, quality and cost.
They are willing to get higher quality product with the shortest lead time offering lowest
price for it. This is a common phenomenon, which is happening now in the garment sector
all over the world. Being aware of the current state of the garment factories and knowing
the buyers expectations and requirements, it would be very difficult to survive or to grow.
Therefore, quality is becoming a vital key to successful growth of a company. The main
objectives of the factories are to tide up to the lead time and the cost. Therefore, it is
becoming a crying need for the factories to improve its quality level as well as productivity.

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Defects signify lack of quality. The products dealt with in the garment industry are ever-
changing and so are the defects. Analysing finished products gives probable problematic
areas for similar products in the future. Naturally, the bulk and array of data being dealt
with requires a Knowledge Based System. But such systems today are not pro-active, they
are rarely updated. If we know the product, then detecting defects is not hard. But defects
are observed every day, in every product. The problem lies in monitoring. Human beings are
susceptible to boredom and fatigue. Emotions hinder performance all the time.

The garment industry is heading towards automation. Machines will soon start
manufacturing clothes and the human contribution would be limited to supervision only
(Drummond, 2012).

Right First Time attempts to improve and stabilize the production, to avoid/minimize issues that led
to the defects in the first place i.e. to get the right quality at the first time.

Data can be captured for RFT at each process and it is expressed in percentage. Total audits passed
in first time out of total audit conducted by auditors.

Though in many literatures on quality system, researchers have emphasized on mistake


proofing system and a very few have addressed the traffic light system. Ratnayake et al.
(2009) implemented cellular manufacturing with mistake proofing system in the industry for
quality controlling where a team of operators focuses mainly on one part of the garment,
helped when addressing most of the problems identified in the root cause analysis.

Traffic light system is a way of reducing the quality faults. It works in a way the traffic light
works in the transportation system. In this paper, we have studied the traffic light system, a
quality tool which was implemented in a garment industry named Arvind Goodhill Suit
Manufacturing in India. The goal of this paper is to show how traffic light system can reduce
the quality faults, improve the lead time and thus strengthen the supply chain. This paper
will show how traffic light system can reduce the quality faults, improve the lead time and
thus strengthen the supply chain. Data has been collected for one month before and after
the system being implemented. The results are also shown here in this paper which tells us
about the improvement of the productivity and quality level. This paper will show the
reduction in re-work and frequency of defects in critical areas.

The paper contains a detailed study of the defects along with Pareto analysis to identify the
defects in the pre-implementation stage and also in the post-implementation stage to
project the significant change.

The first section, it will deal with the study of the pre-existing re-work rate in the industry
and the post-implementation re-work rate. It will comprise of all the data related to Traffic
light system process. The second part will comprise of the detailed defect analysis, Pareto

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charts to portray the significant defects reduction. The third part will comprise of a
conclusion showing the overall benefits of the company and the future aspects of this
conducted project.

Need of the Project-

Problems faced in the Arvind Goodhill is that there were a lot of alterations and are not
being filled by the checkers properly.

The actual D.H.U were not being reported on the report, so they unable to solve the
problems.

Due to inline check alterations, there is lot of reworks between the lines which leads to
problems in continuous material flow.

Rework on 1 = Making 3 new garments so it is always a profitable decision to avoid reworks.

Further, in most of the cases the industry fails to provide the correct rework percentage and
provides a somewhat believable percentage by the end of the day just for the sake of it,
control planning will give us the real image of the reworks which at the first place is
necessary to improve.

Presently, the DHU% in factory is 7.78%. The target is to reach less than 5%.

Objective-
 To ensure the First Quality from each operation right at first time.
Sub Objectives:

 Defect Reduction
 To implement a standardise system for Garment Production & Quality Control

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Literature Review-

Case Study-1

Right-First-Time - An Approach To Meeting The Demands Of Today’s Customer - David W


Farrington-Meridian Fabrics, Courtaulds plc, PO Box 54. Haydn Road, Nottingham NG5 1DH-
Presented at the Societys International conference held at the University of Leeds.
There are probably three areas that need examining if were to justify the approach of a
‘right-first-time’ objective within business. These are:

 The market place - its expectations and requirements


 The competition
 The ‘in-house’ benefits of doing it - opportunity and cost saving.

An analysis of the work done at Meridian to achieve first-quality production at the first time
of asking shows that it is through a combined programme of four interdependent key
ingredients:

 Employee involvement and participation


 Attention to detail across the business
 Closer relationships with both customers and suppliers
 Capital investment.

It has been tried to identify why a right-first-time approach is important, and then to
pull together the elements to make it a reality. Earlier they had a customer survey
carried out by an independent consultant. This highlighted the following main points:

 The general product quality is recognized as being good


 Our delivery on-time performance is reasonable, but it takes too long (i.e. our
promised turn-round times exceed the customer’s need)
 When something goes wrong. Then it takes too long to put it right.

Similarly the consultant identified the need for a quick response in order to protect and to
obtain business. Unless the quality of the product and of the business is founded firmly on a
basis of a right-first-time philosophy and reliability, then there can be no achievement of QR
because the accuracy of response will not be possible.

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The textile and apparel industry needs to respond by advertising itself as offering
opportunity and challenge; it must set out to attract people of high calibre.

Sewing percent defective reduced to approximately 40%. In finishing, stitching D.H.U. came
down to approximately 8% from 16% as earlier, uncut thread D.H.U. came down to
approximately 10% from 22% as earlier. Rework increased the cost of the different work
categories between 2% to 30%. However, some best practices to control defect generation
within the factory were suggested as- Make the workplace clean – from fabric store to
cutting to sewing to washing and finishing. Place quality control system in proper place.
Implies that sufficient no. of checkers, trained checkers, checkers making report while
checking, analysis of reports and take action based on the quality check reports. Conduct
training program for the checkers on how to check piece correctly to capture defective
pieces. Train them to make garment checking reports. Run quality awareness program for
your employees. Quality standard must be understood by each employee and everybody
have to work to meet quality goal. No low standard work should be accepted by the
following department. In sewing line don’t allow operators to keep bundles open and each
bundle must be completed before forwarding to the next. It will help you track missing
pieces. It is usual experience that operators throw pieces under tables when they make
mistake or receive defective (incomplete) garments from previous operator. Nobody keeps
track of these missing pieces until you found shortage of garments in finishing. Set standard
operating procedures (SOP) for each task performed by your employees. SOP for quality
control system for each department. Set audit team to audit your quality system in a regular
interval. These recommendations were suggested to the individual department.

The suggestive tools developed in this article cover a comprehensive series of aspects in
minimizing reworks in the sewing section of apparel industries by ensuring quality
production. The importance of the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very
high. The explosive growth of the RMG industry in the country, however, has not been
enough supported by the growth of backward linkage facilities. So manufacturing the quality
product is mandatory to sustain in this global competitive market. Quality is ultimately a
question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the value of a product or service,
establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in
turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The

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perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which together help
achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer. However, we should bear in mind
that 1% defective product for an organization is 100% defective for the customer who buys
that defective product. The study clearly indicates that by eliminating non-productive
activities like reworks in the apparel industries time as well as cost are saved by ensuring
quality production which have an important impact on overall factory economy.

Case Study-2

This study was conducted by Md. Mazharul Islam and Md. Sadequr Rahman. They
conducted this study at a composite knitwear manufacturing unit in Bangladesh. Their
project was based on Traffic Light system implementation to reduce the alteration rate and
enhance the productive capacity. Their paper comprises of the pre-implementation and
post-implementation scenarios to show the significant difference.
 The project shows drastic change in the alteration rate from 12% to 4% after
implementing Traffic Light system.
 About 0.38 day was saved from each line for rejection, which was 14 days for the
whole factory.
 About 0.19 day was saved from each line for alteration, which 7 days in terms of
production.
The pre-implementation stage showed 925 days production for one line for a month and
after the implementation, the value got reduced to 878 days. This shows a reduction of 47
days of production for one line for a month.
Total savings in terms of money for a particular month was 62,000 US Dollars.
So, it could be concluded that Traffic Light system can be implemented in any garment
manufacturing company to improve quality, reduce costs, reduce lead time thus resulting in
stronger supply chain.

Case Study-3

‘An application of Pareto analysis and cause effect diagram for minimization of defects’
IJMER, Vol. 3, by Tanvir Ahmed, Raj Narayan Acharjee, Noman Sikdar.

As Readymade Garments sector is a large industrial sector in Bangladesh, quality


improvement can play a vital role for improving productivity as well as economic
development for the country. This review published by Tanvir Ahmed, Raj Narayan
Acharjee, Noman Sikder- 2013 represents a detail investigation on quality improvement of
a garment factory by applying:

 Cause-Effect Diagram.

The aim of this study is to minimize defects that will reduce rework and rejection rate
At present the success of the Readymade Garments sector highly depends on several factors
such as manufacturing lead time, quality of product, production cost etc. These factors are

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hampered due to various defects in the products. These defects can be repairable that leads
to rework or non-repairable that leads to rejection. Rework in the garments industry is a
common work that hampers the smooth production rate and focus poor quality products
having an impact on overall factory economy. Minimization of reworks is a must in quality
and productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for poor quality product and low
production rate. Reworks are the non-productive activities focusing on any activity that
customer are not willing to pay for. Non-productive activities describe that the customer
does not consider as adding value to his product. An application of Pareto analysis and
cause-effect diagram for minimizing defect percentage in sewing section. By reacting
quicker in minimization of reworks to make a product as per customer demand with
expected quality, the company can invest less money and more costs savings. Whereas
rejection causes waste and deceases resource efficiency. In this review four months defect
data has been collected from the management and Pareto Analysis is performed on them.

From the analysis top defect positions are identified where 78.56% defects occur. On those
top positions further Pareto Analysis is performed to identify the top defect types. That
resulted in total 115 concerning areas where 71.40% defects occur, which should be the
major concerning areas to reduce defect percentage. So hierarchies of causes for individual
defect types are organized and Cause-Effect Diagrams are constructed for those defect
types. Then relative suggestions to those causes are also provided.

Case Study-5

Dalgobind Mahto in this paper, it gives details of root cause analysis methods and
techniques in identification quality of major key characteristics in manufacturing process. It
is very risk in identifying problem in multistage operation. In this paper, root cause analysis
was adopted to reduce the defect rate in cutting operation in CNC machines. This study
dives detail structure to solve human related problem in manufacturing process. This study
gives an idea for stakeholders to promote effective and better solution all time.

This paper presents on use of Pareto chart and Cause and Effect diagram in analyzing the
defect caused in garment industry. This papers aims at reducing the defect rate caused
while stitching clothes. Using these methods it was identified about 80% defect rate in
process of stitching. The top five defects was identified and analyzed. Using cause and effect
diagram causes and effect are constructed. The study provided suggestion to reduce the
defect rate. Thus this papers gives idea of how effectively minimizing the rework and defect
rate.

Terms (Quality Gurus)-

By Dr.Joseph M.Juran(1989):

Quality means
• “Fitness for use” – means if the product we bought has some deficiency, we can’t use
it, so in that case we can say that the product is defective
• He proposed that companies should judge fitness for use of a product from a
customer’s view point and not from a manufacturer’s or seller’s viewpoint.

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Juran’s Trilogy(1999)-

• Quality Planning: The structured process for designing products and services that
meet new breakthrough goals and ensure that customer needs are met.
• Quality Control: can also be described as “a process for meeting the established
goals by evaluating and comparing actual performance and planned performance,
and taking action on the difference.”
• Quality Improvement: The process for creating breakthrough levels of performance
by eliminating wastes and defects to reduce the cost of poor quality

By Philip Crosby(1979):

• “quality is free”
• Means that production costs are the same for items that do and those that do not
meet specifications and standards
• Production and material costs are the same for first quality products (those that
meet the standards) as for sub-standard products (those that do not meet standards)

Companies have same investment in a sub-standard product as in first-quality product

Kaoru Ishikawa:

 Ishikawa Diagram-identifies many possible causes for an effect or problem. It can be


used to structure a brainstorming session. It immediately sorts ideas into useful
categories.
 Used-When identifying possible causes for a problem

Research Methodology

 Secondary Data Collection


 Primary Data Collection & Analysis (JANUARY)
 Pareto Analysis of data
 Identification of Top 5 defects. (EACH SECTION)
 Brain Storming (Cause & Effect Diagram and Why Why Analysis)
 Devising of Standard
 Provide the solution for the defects (Traffic Light System)
 Training for the given solutions
 Implementing the given solutions
 Analyzing the improvement after implementation using the same procedure
 Comparing both the data
 Result Analysis & Documentation

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This study contains use of quality tools to minimize defects and rework on garment industry.
It includes the theoretical ideas about various defects, various quality tools specially Pareto
Analysis and Cause-Effect diagram.

Data Collection
To find out about the various defects for 3 ongoing styles by collecting data with the help of
end line checking formats and in line audit formats by checking the pieces thereby with the
checker to evaluate the defective rates and DHU%.

Pareto Analysis
The data will be represented in Pareto charts where the lengths of the bars represent
frequency of the defects which will be arranged with longest bars on the left and the
shortest to the right. It is based on the 80-20 principle which means 80% problems are
caused by 20% defects.
Again further Pareto analysis is done to show the most dominant occurring defects out of
the pool of top defects.

Cause and Effect Analysis


After finding out the major defects through the Pareto analysis, Cause and effect analysis
was used to find out the possible causes or the root causes for the major defects.

Why Why Analysis


The primary goal of technique is to determine the root cause of a defect or problem by
repeating the question “Why”.

First Why, Second Why, Third Why, Fourth Why and Fifth Why: a Root Cause

Implementing Effective Solutions and Data Collection


The root causes were identified in the form of man, machine, material and method and
corrective actions were proposed thereby. After that, solution were proposed including
Traffic Light System, data was again collected for the last 30 days of the internship period in
order to compare the initial and final scenario.

Analysis and Interpretation

When number of defects in a garment is high it seemed as worse quality garment and when
defects are less then it is a better quality garment. In checking, quality checker detects
defects in garments and separate defective garments from good pieces. Where there is
established quality system, quality checker records total number of defects found in the
garments checked by her/him in a day and also she/he records the number of defective
garments where those defects are found. The definition and formula for calculating DHU
and Percentage Defectives are given below:

Defective Pieces-Defective pieces are those pieces, which are separated for alteration
during checking may be for any causes. For the quantitative measure there is two measuring
unit as Defects per hundred units and percentage defective.

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Defects per hundred units (DHU) – number of total defects in 100 checked garments.
Formula for calculating DHU is = (Total no. of defects found/Total pieces checked) x 100
Percentage Defective (%) – total number of defective pieces in 100 checked garments.
Percentage defective = (Total no. of defective pieces / Total pieces checked) x 100

For the purpose of analyzing the frequency of the defects in the sewing department, a style was
chosen and 1 month defect data was collected in January 2017.The details of the styles are
described and the end line inspection data, front section inspection data, lining section
inspection data and sleeve section inspection data for each style is presented in a tabular form.

JACKET LINE

Each jacket is comprised of 4 sections:

 Sleeve
 Lining
 Body
 Assembly

The SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 70-85 min.

The Jacket line follows the UPS system of production. The material moves on
pneumatically controlled overhead hangers, which uses the principle of gravity
beautifully.

Product Detail

• Product Description : Jacket (Sports)


• Brand : Calvin Klein
• Buyer: PVH Corp
• Style No: CK GP-3001
• Colours: Grey and White

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Data Analysis for this Style for January

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PARETO ANALYSIS

Pareto analysis was performed for the given style based on Jan month defect data from the
sewing section. From this analysis “Vital few” areas where maximum defects occur were
identified. Here horizontal axis represents defect types, vertical axis at left side represents
no of defect amount.
The amount of defects has been represented by vertical bars with their respective defect
amounts have been represented by the blue coloured bars.
Name of Defect No. of Defect % Defect Cumulative % Defects
Fusing Mark 51 11.33% 11.33%
Vent stitch open 42 9.33% 20.66%
Fabric Damage 36 8% 28.66%
Fit label missing 31 6.89% 35.55%
Armhole lining lock
open/miss 29 6.44% 41.99%
Keyhole
miss/open/uneven/broken 28 6.22% 48.21%
Weaving 27 6% 54.21%
Armhole
open/jump/uneven stitch 27 6% 60.21%
Wash care label open 24 5.33% 65.54%
Sleeve Edge (kinari) open 22 4.89% 70.43%
Main label miss/cross 22 4.89% 75.32%
Pocket bag open 19 4.22% 79.54%
Sleeve Elbow/Inseam
open 17 3.78% 83.32%
Sleeve cuff open/Button
miss 16 3.56% 86.88%
D/1 bar tack miss/open 14 3.11% 89.99%
Vent up and down 11 2.11% 92.1%
Armhole stitch visible 8 1.77% 93.87%
Stain 6 1.33% 95.2%
Lapel point open/jump
stitch 4 0.89% 96.09%
Collar zigzag
open/broken/open/jump
stitch 3 0.66% 96.75%
Side seam open/loose
stitch/puckering 3 0.66% 97.41%
Lapel shape out 3 0.66% 98.07%
Front to Front up and
down 2 0.44% 98.51%
OBW PKT ZIGZAG 1 0.22% 98.808%
Flap uneven/open 1 0.22% 99.106%
Pick up and down 1 0.22% 99.404%
Shoulder seam
open/loose/uneven 1 0.22% 99.702%
Size label wrong/miss 1 0.22% 100%
Pareto Analysis data for Jacket Endline Section

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Endline Section Pareto Chart


60
51
50
Frequency of Defcts

42
40 36
31 29
28 27 27
30 24 22 22
19 17
20 16 14
11
8 6
10 4 3 3 3 2
1 1 1 1 1
0

Collar zigzag…
Keyhole…

Shoulder seam…
Armhole…
Armhole lining lock…

Side seam open/loose…


Damage
Fusing Mark

Fit label miss

Weaving

Stain
Main label miss/cross

Armhole stitch visible


Vent stitch open

Lapel point open/jump stitch

Size label wrong/miss


OBW PKT ZIGZAG
Sleeve kinari open

Sleeve Elbow/Inseam open


Wash care label open

Sleeve cuff open/Button miss


D/1 bar tack miss/open

Lapel shape out


Pocket bag open

Flap uneven/open
Pick up and down
Vent up and down

Front to Front up and down


Type of Defect

Pareto Chart for Jacket Endline Section

The data collected from Jacket Endline Section has been plotted in Pareto chart and it was
found that 80% problems are caused due to 20% defects. The 20% defects are Fusing Marks,
Vent Stitch Open, Damage, Fit Label Miss and Armhole Lining Lock open/miss.

Observations from Pareto chart Analysis for Major Defects:


• Fusing Marks are most common defect with as much as 11.33% of total

• Vent stitch open is second most common defect with as much as 9.33% of total.

• Damage is third most common defect with as much as 8% of total.

• Fit label miss is fourth most common defect with as much as 6.89% of total.

• Armhole lining lock open/miss is fifth most common defect with as much as 6.44%.

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Further Pareto Analysis of Endline Section

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Fusing Mark 51 26.98413 26.98
Vent stitch open 42 22.22222 49.2
Damage 36 19.04762 68.24
Fit label miss 31 16.40212 84.64
Armhole lining lock
open/miss 29 15.34392 100

60
Endline Top 5 Defects
51
50

42
40
Frequency of Defect

36
31
29
30

20

10

0
Fusing Mark Vent stitch open Damage Fit label miss Armhole lining
lock open/miss

Endline Top 5 Defects

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Pareto Analysis data for Jacket Front Section-

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Seam Open 28 23.33333 23.333
Damage 18 15 38.333
flap bartack miss/ finishing
not good 13 10.83 49.163
marging uneven 13 10.83 59.993
bottom pocket shape out 8 6.667 66.66
bottom pocket flap shape
out 5 4.167 70.827
sticker no. wrong 5 4.167 74.994
blind hem visible on shell 4 3.333 78.327
SPI wrong 4 3.333 81.66
OBW bag open/loose 3 2.5 84.16
flap lining out 3 2.5 86.66
flap width uneven 3 2.5 89.16
chest pad tape alignment
wrong 3 2.5 91.66
Raw edge at OBW corner 2 1.667 93.327
OBW basting open/miss 2 1.667 94.994
Side vent up down 2 1.667 96.661
chest pad alignment wrong 2 1.667 98.328
OBW bag shape out 1 0.833 99.161
Vent finishing/folding
wrong 1 0.833 100

Front Section Pareto Chart


30 28
Frequency of Defects

25
20 18

15 13 13

10 8
5 5 4 4
5 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 1 1
0

Pareto Chart for Jacket Front Section

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Graduation Project 2018

The data collected from Jacket Front Section has been plotted in Pareto chart and it was
found that 80% problems are caused due to 20% defects. The 20% defects are Seam Open,
Damage, Flap Bartack miss/Finishing not good, Marging Uneven and Bottom Pocket Shape
Out.

Observations from Pareto chart Analysis for Major Defects:


• Seam Open are most common defect with as much as 23.33% of total

• Damage open is second most common defect with as much as 15.33% of total.

• Flap Bartack miss/Finishing not good is third most common defect with as much as
10.83% of total.

• Marging Uneven is fourth most common defect with as much as 10.83% of total.

• Bottom Pocket Shape Out is fifth most common defect with as much as 6.67%.

Further Pareto Analysis of Front Section

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Seam Open 28 35.00 35
Damage 18 22.50 57.5
flap bartack miss/
finishing not good 13 16.25 73.75
marging uneven 13 16.25 90
bottom pocket shape
out 8 10.00 100

30 28
Front Top 5 Defects
25
Frequency of Defect

20 18

15 13 13

10 8

0
Seam Open Damage flap bartack miss/ marging uneven bottom pocket
finishing not good shape out

Lining Section Top 5 Defects

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Pareto Analysis data for Jacket Lining Section-

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Collar point up & down 43 23.11 23.11
Notch mismatch 29 15.59 38.7
label miss/reverse/size wrong/po
change 25 13.44 52.14
Lining Edge (kinari) stitch uneven 23 12.36 64.5
stain/fusing mark 17 9.139 73.639
piping uneven 15 8.06 81.699
main label/size label/washcare
label missing 11 5.914 87.613
pocket bag closing wrong/shape
out 6 3.22 90.833
spi 4 2.15 92.983
seam open/loose/skip 4 2.15 95.133
Gorg seam margin uneven 3 1.613 96.746
Loose stitch/jump
stitch/skip/open 2 1.075 97.821
weaving/damage 2 1.075 98.896
Collar stand width uneven 1 0.537 99.433
s/h seam marging uneven/notch
out 1 0.537 100

50
45
43 Lining Section Pareto Chart
Frequency of Defects

40
35 29
30 25 23
25
20 17 15
15 11
10 6 4 4 3 2 2 1 1
5
0

Type of Defects

Pareto Chart for Jacket Front Section

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Graduation Project 2018

The data collected from Jacket Lining Section has been plotted in Pareto chart and it was
found that 80% problems are caused due to 20% defects. The 20% defects are Collar point
up & down, Notch miss-match, Label miss/reverse/size wrong/PO change, Lining Kinari
stitch uneven and Stain/Fusing Mark.

Observations from Pareto chart Analysis for Major Defects:


• Collar point up & down are most common defect with as much as 23.11% of total

• Notch miss-match is second most common defect with as much as 15.59% of total.

• Label miss/reverse/size wrong/PO change is third most common defect with as


much as 13.44% of total.

• Lining Kinari stitch uneven is fourth most common defect with as much as 12.36% of
total.

• Stain/Fusing Mark is fifth most common defect with as much as 9.13%.

Further Pareto Analysis of Lining Section-

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Collar point up & down 43 31.38686 31.38
Notch miss-match 29 21.16788 52.54
label miss/reverse/size
wrong/PO change 25 18.24818 70.78
Lining Kinari stitch
uneven 23 16.78832 87.56
Stain/Fusing mark 17 12.40876 100

50
45 43
Lining Top 5 Defects
40
35
Frequency of Defect

29
30
25
25 23

20 17
15
10
5
0
Collar point up & Notch missmatch label Lining kinari stitch stain/fusing mark
down miss/reverse/size uneven
wrong/po change

Lining Section Top 5 Defects

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Pareto Analysis data for Jacket Lining Section-

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


sleeve cuff open 37 16.66 16.66
sleeve button
wrong/open/loose 36 16.21 32.87
elbow seam puckering 35 15.76 48.63
Sleeve vent up and down 30 13.51 62.14
Fusing mark 21 9.45 71.59
Lining elbow open 17 7.657 79.247
Inseam open 12 5.405 84.652
fabric weaving 12 5.405 90.057
sleeve keyhole placement
wrong 9 4.054 94.111
sleeve button missing 6 2.702 96.813
Damage 3 1.351 98.164
sleeve colour shade
variation 2 0.9 99.064
sleeve fullness/puckering 2 0.9 100

40
37
36
35 Sleeve Section Pareto Chart
35
30
30
Frequency of Defect

25
21
20
17

15
12 12

10 9
6
5 3
2 2

Type of Defects

Pareto Chart for Jacket Front Section

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Graduation Project 2018

The data collected from Jacket Sleeve Section has been plotted in Pareto chart and it was
found that 80% problems are caused due to 20% defects. The 20% defects are Collar point
up & down, Notch miss-match, Label miss/reverse/size wrong/PO change, Lining Kinari
stitch uneven and Stain/Fusing Mark.

Observations from Pareto chart Analysis for Major Defects:


• Collar point up & down are most common defect with as much as 23.11% of total

• Notch miss-match is second most common defect with as much as 15.59% of total.

• Label miss/reverse/size wrong/PO change is third most common defect with as


much as 13.44% of total.

• Lining Kinari stitch uneven is fourth most common defect with as much as 12.36% of
total.

• Stain/Fusing Mark is fifth most common defect with as much as 9.13%.

Further Pareto Analysis of Sleeve Section-

Name of Defect No. of Defects % Defect Cumulative % Defect


Collar point up & down 43 31.38686 31.38
Notch miss-match 29 21.16788 52.54
label miss/reverse/size
wrong/PO change 25 18.24818 70.78
Lining Kinari stitch
uneven 23 16.78832 87.56
Stain/Fusing mark 17 12.40876 100

Sleeve Top 5 Defects


40 37 36 35
Frequency of Defect

35 30
30
25 21
20
15
10
5
0

Sleeve Top 5 Defects

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Cause and Effect Diagram

Cause & Effect Diagram-Through this analysis the root causes of major defects were
identified and solutions were provided thereby.

Cause & Effect Diagram for Fusing Marks-

Cause and Effect Diagram for Stain

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Cause and Effect Diagram for Seam Open

Cause and Effect diagram for Fit Label Miss

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Cause and Effect Diagram for Label Miss/Reverse/Size Wrong

Cause and Effect Diagram for Flap Bartack Miss/Finishing not Good

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Cause and Effect Diagram for Marging Uneven

Cause and Effect Diagram for Bottom Pocket Shape Out

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Cause and Effect Diagram for A/H Lining Lock Open/Miss

Cause and Effect diagram for Elbow Seam Puckering-

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Cause and Effect Diagram of Vent Stitch Open-

Cause and Effect Diagram for Damage-

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Cause and Effect Diagram for Lining Kinari Stitch Uneven-

Cause and Effect Diagram for Collar Point Up & Down-

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Why Why Analysis


Why Why Analysis-The primary goal of technique is to determine the root cause of a defect
or problem by repeating the question “Why”.

First Why, Second Why, Third Why, Fourth Why and Fifth Why: a Root Cause
 Pay attention to the logic of cause effect relationship
 Make sure that root causes certainly lead to the mistake by reversing the sentences
created as a result of the analysis with the use of expression “and therefore”
 Look for cause step by step. Don’t jump to conclusions.

Benefits of 5 Whys-

 Help Identify the root cause of a problem.


 Determine the relationship between different root causes of a problem.
 One of the simplest tools; easy to complete without statistical analysis

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Solutions for Why Why Analysis

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Mock Development
We have developed 3D mock of the critical operations for the operators to clearly what to
do that particular operation. In case of any confusion they can refer to mock and not need
to ask Q.C for the operation. They are hung on the machine in front of the operator so that
operator always knows what is correct and what is wrong. They are also provided with
important information and measurements for the operations.

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Template for Sleeve Vent Up & Down Defect

Operator should place the sleeve end at the edge of tape to prevent the defect.

Use of White Gloves to prevent Stains

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After the work cover the ready pieces to prevent stains.

Use of Mock for Main & Fit Label

Fusing Tape left carelessly over the workstation

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Proper Placement of Fusing Tape

Attachment of Metal Wire Guide to prevent Roping/Piping Uneven

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Training Regarding Collar Attachment

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Setting up of Correct Thread Tension

Daily Meeting of Line Quality Controller with the Inline & Endline Checkers

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Template development for Main Label Attachment

Template for Bottom Vent Up & Down

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Teflon Coated Pressure Foots and Throat Plate should be used to prevent oil marks leaking
from Machine.

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Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) Development


• To provide standard operating procedure to the department.

• Helps to distinguish right or wrong methods of operations.

• To provide step-by-step written procedure about how to do a job

• SOP gives desired result and maintains consistency in results.

• SOP helps (operator) who is going to do a particular job by ensuring success method
of doing a job.

Existing Sheet

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Implemented Sheet

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The above Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) was made for-

 All Critical Operations of Jacket


 Sleeve Section
 Body Assembly Section
 Sleeve Assembly Section

We have also made the SOP for the Critical Operations of Trousers and in Kannada also.

Implemented Sheet (Trouser)

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Implemented Sheet (Trouser) in Kannada

SOP Implementation

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Quality Posters
We have also made Quality Posters for the Operators in English, Kannada and Oriya. Quality
Posters are made to give information about the policies of Quality Department of Company
and about the Traffic Light System.

QUALITY
We Aim For Zero
Defect

Quality Poster (English/Kannada)

Cleanliness is
everyone's duty ,
To enhance the line's
beauty

Cleanliness Quality Poster (English/Kannada)

Take A Trial
Before You Start
Stitching
(Morning ,After Lunch, After Maintenance)

( , , )

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Trail Taking Quality Poster (English/Kannada)

Make Machine
Oil/Dust Free After
Maintenance,
Avoid Stain

Avoiding Stain Quality Poster (English/Kannada)

Follow
Traffic
NO DEFECT
G

R
1 DEFECT
Light,
Avoid Defect
NEW/CHANGE IN
OPERATOR
Y

Traffic Light Quality Poster (English/Kannada)

QUALITY
We Aim For Zero
Defect

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Quality Poster (English/Odiya)

Follow
Traffic
NO DEFECT
G

R
1 DEFECT
Light,
Avoid Defect
NEW/CHANGE IN
OPERATOR
Y

Traffic Light Quality Poster (English/Odiya)

Poster implementation near Punching Machine

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Poster Implementation

Quality Checking Methods-


GARMENT OUTSIDE FRONT

1. Top and under collar


A. Top collar
Put the garment on hanger (Front side towards you).

To check the top collar uses both hands.

Checks the following

Uneven collar edge, collar shape (pic-1)

B. Hanger loop
Check the following

Tacking tight, Secured tacking, tacking even

C. Under collar
Turn the garment (Back side towards you).

To check the under collar lift the top collar up.

Check the following

Under collar zigzag secured, up and down stitch,

Under collar should be inside 2 mm from top collar edge (pic-1)

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2. Lapel point

Turn the garment (Front side towards you).

Check the following

Check both side lapel together for evenness. (Pic-2)

Lapel peak width on both sides

Up and down between both lapels

Lapel peak point should be sharp

Piping reverses at lapel peak and notch


(Pic-2)

Lapel peak shape.

3. Shoulder seam

To check the seam uses both hands to stretch the seam.

Check for seam shape, fullness distribution equal (Pic-3)

4. Lapel and Front edge

A. Lapel
Keep garment front side towards you

Check the following

Lapel should be straight upto 10 cm

Lapel width should be even on both sides

Lapel should be rolled properly

lapel break point distance should be 1/2” above the Button


and button hole.

Lapel point to lapel break point facing panel cover front


panel and after break point to bottom front panel cover
facing panel (2mm )(Pic-4)
(Pic-4)

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B. Button and button hole at front

Hold the button with both hands

Check the following

Button and button hole position

Button hole should be straight

Button wrapping and fraying thread on button hole

D. Front edge
Hold the front edge on your hand and start moving
your hand from top to bottom and Check the following

Piping visible on both sides

Tipping and piping width based on style

Front edge up and down.

Front edge shape (Pic-5)

E. Bottom shape (Pic-5)


Use both hands to check the bottom shape and check
the following

Bottom shape

Bottom up and down on both sides

Lining should be inside 3 mm at bottom shape.

5. Breast pocket

Check the following

Breast pocket should be neat and clean.

Check the zigzag stitch secured on the edges.

Inserts the finger on both corner of breast pocket


to check finger gaps are even on both the side.

Check the long stitch secured in the breast pocket

Breast pocket width

Pocket corner pleat, dimple mark.

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6. Waist pocket and Dart seam

A. Waist pocket

To check waist pocket, lift the flap to you.

Check pocket long stitch inserts the finger on both


corner Of the pocket.

Check the following

Waist pocket corner pleat, open, dimp.

Flap lining should be inside .

Waist pocket flap shape.

B. Dart seam

Check the following

Dart shape

No dimple at end of the dart

Dart length should be equal on both sides.

7. Sleeve

Check the following:

A. Even Crown shape


Use both hands to check the crown shape.

Crown shape should be even .

Sleeve fall should be even on both sides

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B. Armhole seam

To check the seam use the both hands to stretch


the seam

Check the following

Notch matching , seam margin (1 cm)

Thread visible.

8. Elbow seam, in seam and button, button hole

A. Elbow seam and in seam

Use both hands to check elbow and in seam by


stretching the seam

B. Sleeve button and button hole

To check sleeve button, keep the sleeve facing towards to


you

Check the following

Sleeve button match on both sides

Button to button gap

Button position from sleeve bottom and vent edge.

Button to button up and down between both sleeves

Sleeve bottom shape should be even.

Sleeve vent length should be even on both side.

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C. Sleeve bottom shape and cuff


Turnover the bottom edge and check the
following

Bottom edge shape

Double crease at cuff (Pic-14)

9. Scan front and sleeve


Scan front and sleeve for fabric flows and defects
(if any).

3 1 1 3
2 2

7 7
4 4
5

6 6

8 8

4 4

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GARMENT OUTSIDE BACK

10. Center back seam

Turn the garments back panel facing


side towards you.

Check the seam use both hands to


stretch the seam.

Check the following

Center back seam should be straight.

Waviness, puckering

11. Side seam and vent edge (kinari)

A. Side seam

To check the side use both hands to stretch


the seam

Check the following

Side seam puckering

B. Vent Edge (kinari)

To check the vent kinari lift the center back panel

Check the following

Kinari piping

Thread colour matching

Seam should be straight

Hold the vent one above another to check vent up


and down.

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12. Bottom shape

Hold the bottom edge in both hands


and check the following

Bottom shape is correct

Lining should be inside 1.5 cm at


back side bottom.

13. Scan back

Scan back for fabric flows and


defects (if any).

13

10

11 11

12

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GARMENT INSIDE FRONT

1.Gorge seam

Turn the garment lining front towards to


you.

Use both hands to check the gorge seam


by streching the seam.

Gorge seam should be straight.

2.Shoulder seam

Use both hands to check the shoulder


seam by streching the seam. Check the
following

Margin should be even .

Fullness distribution equal.

3. Lining front to facing seam

Use both hands to check the linin front to facing seam


by streching the seam

Check the following

Even fullness distribution

Looseness,Puckering

4.Welting pocket and label

A.Welting pocket

Check the following

Pocket corner pleat and open.

Smiling of welting pocket .

D-bartack both side , puckering.

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B. Main label

Check the following

Brand name and spelling .

Label colour .

Zigzag stitch open and uneven.

C. Wash care label

Check for brand name, size and spelling, content,


model and style code, work order .

5.Side seam and Armhole seam

A. Side seam

Use both hands to chek the side seam by streching


the seam.

Check the following

Side seam even and flat.

B. Lining armhole seam

Check the following

Armhole shape even

Thread visible.

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6. Lining bottom seam

Use both hands to check the lining bottom


seam by streching the seam.

Check the following

Lining should be inside.

7.Scan front lining

Scan front lining for fabric defects (if any).

1 1 2
2

3 3

4
4

5 5

6 6

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GARMENT INSIDE BACK

8.Lining center back seam and Edge (Kinnari)

A.Lining center back

Check for lining center back seam use both hands to


stretch the seam

Check the following

Pleat folding even.

Seam should be straight.

Puckering

Lining tight at bottom. (Pic-30)

B.Vent Edge (kinari)

Check the following

Seam should be straight .

Lining tight at vent .

9. Side panel to lining center back seam

Checking for side panel to lining center back seam use


both hands to stretch the seam

Seam should be flat.

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10. Lining bottom seam

Use both hands to check the lining bottom seam by


streching the seam.

Lining should be inside 1cm from bottom.

11. Scan front lining

Scan back lining for fabric defects.

11

9 9

10 10

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Implementation

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Graduation Project 2018

Quality Checking Videos


We have also made the Quality Checking Videos to help in training of checkers and enable
them to check the garments properly and identify the defects easily. The videos are made
for all four sections of Quality Checking Points-

 Front
 Lining
 Sleeve
 Body Assembly

At last we have also made the video of Endline Checking. The videos list the important focus
points and areas for defect checking.

Some of the screenshots of videos are as follows-

Endline Checking

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Graduation Project 2018

Front Section Checking

Lining Section Checking

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Sleeve Section Checking

Body Assembly Section Checking

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Graduation Project 2018

Traffic Light System


• Traffic light system is the most effective inspection tool to reduce defect generation
at source.

• It is a random inspection system.

• Traffic light system is more effective in controlling shop floor quality than other
quality tools because of its visual communication.

• At the same time it measures operator’s performance level in quality.

• No operators like to be presented themselves as lower quality makers. They


concentrate on quality aspect during stitching garments. Inline checking system will
alert operators in concentrating their job. If less number of defective seam/stitches
is made, less the time will be lost in repairing it. It also helps in other way.

• Traffic Light System is designed to flag the problem at source and allow immediate
corrective action rather than all potentially defective products to continue to be
manufactured.

Background-

The Traffic Light System is specifically aimed:-

• To improve first time quality of the product by bringing precision and consistency in
execution of operations, by making operators cognizant with their performance level
and accuracy at specified intervals.

• This will lead to rise in efficiency of operators, resulting in growth in output of the
factory; as well as reduction in number of defected pieces at the end of sewing lines,
subsequently saving the time and the cost incurred by the company on their
reworking and alteration.

Need for the Traffic Light System-

• REDUCING ALTERATION RATE - Higher alteration rate stands as a severe bottleneck


in achieving an uninterrupted production flow, and adding up unnecessary
production cost and time.

• INCREASING OPERATOR EFFICIENCY - Operator efficiency is a very crucial factor in


determining the attainment of specified target in production lines. Higher efficiency
is directly proportional to better productivity.

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• QUALITY IMPROVEMENT- Quality is the one of the most important aspects which
influences the sale-ability of the product. Consumer satisfaction is highly based on
the quality being offered. Thus, it is very essential to have an avant-garde approach
towards quality.

Definition of Traffic Light Quality System

• In the production line each worker is characterized by a card and the card is being
hung over the machine.

• Green is for good quality, Red stands for quality alert and Yellow is for new
operator/change in operator. Five piece quality checking system, is to be
implemented and the quality controllers are to be instructed to check the quality
status.

• Every one hour, collect data of critical operators on a regular basis taking five
samples of each critical operation.

Procedure

• When a worker produces quality product with zero defect, he or she is characterized
by a Green card.

• But when any worker who does a single fault out of the checked five pieces, a Red
card is hanged above his or her head that indicates that this worker is producing
faults that should be corrected and an extra care should be taken to this worker.

• Yellow card is hanged above the head of new operator/ if the operator is changed
due to any reason indicating that line Q.C. and Line Supervisor must be extra careful
about him or her.

Pre-implementation process-

• Step 1: Studying of the productivity of the line with respect to the running style on a
single day.
• Step 2: Separation of defect-free and pieces with defects during end line inspection.
• Step 3: Classification and recognition of defects on the basis of intensity of
occurrence.
• Step 4: Calculation of total production and no. of pieces send back for rework\
alteration.
• Step 5: Continuation of the process for a week (6 working days).
• Step 6: Determination of average production and average percentage alteration.

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Implementation process-

 Step 1: Putting of formats of Traffic Light System on critical operations


• Step 2: Checking of pieces and filling of formats with prescribed colors by In-line QC
on hourly basis for the whole day.
• Step 3: Calculation of total production and no. of finished pieces send for rework\
alteration in terms of percentage at the end of the day.
• Step 4: Continuation of the process for 3 weeks
• Step 5: Determination of average production and average percentage alteration per
week.
• Step 6: Comparison of the difference of average productivity and percentage
alteration pre and post implantation of Traffic Light System.

Defect, Colour Code & Frequency of Q.C Visit- Below table is showing the stages of Sewing
Quality Assurance-

Defect Colour code Signature Action Required


Found
None Q.C. None

One Q.C. Inform Operator Supervisor, Line Chief


Production Manager to make necessary
correction of the process:-
 Show the correction method to the
operator.
 Involve the mechanic to solve sewing
machine problem.
 If Operator cannot reach the quality level
of the process, sewing operator change is
required.
 If sewing machine problem can’t be
solved, need to replace the machine.
 If machine cannot be replaced stop the
machine operation.
New Q.C. Line Q.C. Should be extra careful while dealing
Operator/
Yellow with New Operator. He or She should know the
Change in correct method for the operation and have
Operator necessary skills required for the operation.

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Data Collection Formats-

Traffic Light Audit Sheet: For individual operators. Inspection is to be done hourly in
Eight shifts.

Analysis Format-

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Implementation

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Implementation

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Graduation Project 2018

Data Analysis
Pre-Implementation Stage-
First Week-
• Product Description : Jacket (Sports)
• Brand : Calvin Klein
• Buyer: PVH Corp
• Style No: CK GP- 8016
• Colours: Grey and White

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


02 Jan 170 18 10.58
03 Jan 520 36 6.92
04 Jan 340 25 7.35
05 Jan 370 28 7.56
06 Jan 330 24 7.27
Total 1730 131 7.94

Average production= 346 pieces.


Average no. of defective pieces= 26 pieces
Average re-work rate= 7.94 %
The bar chart shown below depicts the output per day and the defective pieces for the first
week.

600
520
500

400 370
340 330
300 OUTPUT
DEEFCTIVE PIECES
200 170

100
36 25 28 24
18
0
02/Jan 03/Jan 04/Jan 05/Jan 06/Jan

Second Week
• Product Description : Jacket
• Brand : Calvin Klein
• Buyer: PVH Corp
• Style No: CK GP-8016
• Colours: Grey and White

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Graduation Project 2018

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


08 Jan 370 30 8.10
09 Jan 260 22 8.46
10 Jan 210 18 8.57
11 Jan 710 42 5.91
12 Jan 428 27 6.30
13 Jan 210 15 7.14
Total 2188 154 7.41

Average production= 365 pieces.


Average no. of defective pieces= 26 pieces
Average re-work rate= 7.41 %
The bar chart shown below depicts the output per day and the defective pieces for the first
week.

800
710
700

600

500
428
400 370 OUTPUT
DEEFCTIVE PIECES
300 260
210 210
200

100 42
30 22 18 27 15
0
08/Jan 09/Jan 10/Jan 11/Jan 12/Jan 13/Jan

Third Week-
• Product Description : Jacket (Sports)
• Brand : Calvin Klein
• Buyer: PVH Corp
• Style No: CK GP-3001
• Colours: Grey and White

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


16 Jan 240 21 8.75
17 Jan 200 12 6
18 Jan 0 0 0
19 Jan 80 2 2.5
20 Jan 180 6 3.33
Total 700 41 5.15

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Average production= 140 pieces.


Average no. of defective pieces= 8.2 pieces
Average re-work rate= 5.15 %
The bar chart shown below depicts the output per day and the defective pieces for the first
week.
300

250 240

200
200 180

150 OUTPUT
DEEFCTIVE PIECES
100 80

50
21
12 6
0 0 2
0
16/Jan 17/Jan 18/Jan 19/Jan 20/Jan

Fourth Week-
• Product Description : Jacket (Sports)
• Brand : Calvin Klein
• Buyer: PVH Corp
• Style No: CK GP-3001
• Colours: Grey and White

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


22 Jan 240 23 9.58
23 Jan 275 23 8.36
24 Jan 330 23 6.96
29 Jan 191 19 9.94
30 Jan 230 15 6.52
31 Jan 200 20 10
Total 1466 123 8.56

Average production= 244 pieces.


Average no. of defective pieces= 21 pieces
Average re-work rate= 8.56 %

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The bar chart shown below depicts the output per day and the defective pieces for the
fourth week
350 330

300 275
240 230
250
191 200
200
OUTPUT
150
DEEFCTIVE PIECES
100

50 23 23 23 19 20
15
0

Problems faced due to the existing inspection:

 There was high rate of alteration.


 The type and cause of defects could not be identified correctly.
 Time taken for a style to move out of the line increased.
 Before traffic light system was implemented there was a high percentage of
alteration.

IMPLEMENTATION PHASE

This is the most difficult phase in any projects because all the ideas do not follow the theory
strictly and hence multiple problems were faced while implementing Traffic Light system.
Some of the problems are discussed below:
 Negligence of the workers and adapting to the new process took time. Explanations
were not easily understood and there was a lot of confusion amongst them.
 The existing inspection system had to be transformed and individual demonstration
had to be provided to the quality checkers which resulted in errors in the first week.
 The marking system was quite laborious and hectic. Hence, we tried to maintain a
new format for keeping a record of the regular data in bulk.
 Inspecting all the critical operations individually every hour was a tough task.
 A two weeks trial implementation was also done to find whether it’s effective or not.

Arvind Goodhill Suit Manufacturing


Graduation Project 2018

Analysis during trial/training period

First Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


19 Feb 80 6 7.5
20 Feb 90 13 14.44
21 Feb 130 16 12.03
22 Feb 190 15 7.89
23 Feb 270 9 3.33
24 Feb 280 6 2.14
Total 1040 65 7.88

Average Production- 174


Alteration Rate-7.88%

Second Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


26 Feb 210 21 10
27 Feb 290 17 5.86
28 Feb 322 17 5.28
1 Mar 270 16 5.92
2 Mar 360 20 5.55
3 Mar 341 18 5.27
Total 1793 109 6.31

Average Production-299
Alteration Rate-6.31%

Problems:
 Due to the implementation of a new inspection system workers felt confused.
 Adjustment to the new process took time. This period is referred to as the “learning”
period.
 However, the alteration rate was reduced by 0.26% despite the confusion.

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Post-Implementation Stage

Style- Blackberrys Crew-4


Colour-Peach, Mint, Sky Blue, Beige

First Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


05 Mar 290 16 5.51
06 Mar 460 13 2.82
07 Mar 431 16 3.71
08 Mar 0 0 0
09 Mar 40 2 5
10 Mar 40 9 22.5
Total 1261 56 7.91

Average Production-252
Alteration Rate-7.91%

Second Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


12 Mar 270 8 2.96
13 Mar 80 5 6.25
14 Mar 250 16 6.4
15 Mar 250 19 7.6
17 Mar 330 9 2.72
Total 1180 57 5.18

Average Production- 236


Alteration Rate- 5.18%

Third Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


19 Mar 290 12 4.13
20 Mar 261 11 4.21
21 Mar 250 16 6.4
22 Mar 460 13 2.82
23 Mar 250 11 3.37
24 Mar 326 9 2.43
Total 1837 72 3.89

Average Production-306
Alteration Rate-3.89%

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Fourth Week-

DATE OUTPUT DEEFCTIVE PIECES ALTERATION%


26 Mar 280 15 5.35
27 Mar 322 15 4.65
28 Mar 360 20 5.5
29 Mar 350 17 4.85
30 Mar 431 13 3.71
31 Mar 460 13 2.82
Total 2203 93 4.48

Average Production-367
Alteration Rate-4.48%

Graphical Representation-

Average Production Post


Implementation
400 367
350 306
300
252
236
250
200
150
100
50
0
1st 2nd 3rd 4th

Average Alteration Post


Implementation
9.00%
7.91%
8.00%
7.00%
6.00% 5.18%
5.00% 4.48%
3.89%
4.00%
3.00%
2.00%
1.00%
0.00%
1st 2nd 3rd 4th

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Average Alteration per Week Pre-


implementation vs Post-
implementation

8.00% 7.27%

6.00% 5.36%

4.00%

2.00%

0.00%
Pre Implementation Post Implementation

Results-

Pre-implementation:
Average production per week= 1521 pieces
Average defects per week= 113
Alteration rate= 7.27%

Post-implementation
Average production per week= 1621 pieces
Average defects per week= 69
Alteration rate= 5.36%

This analysis clearly show that,


 Implementation of traffic light system for four weeks has resulted in a sharp
decrease of 1.91% in terms of alteration rate.
 A total time of 219 minutes has been saved on an average due to reduced re-work.

Stage Alter% Alter Time/alter No. of Total Time


Pieces (min) Alter/piece (min)
Pre- 7.27 113 3.3 1.5 560
Implementation
Post- 5.36 69 3.3 1.5 341
Implementation

 At least 3% of the altered garments are saved from rejections after the
implementation of Traffic Light system showing the improvement in quality.

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Stage Alter% Alter Pieces Rejection % Rejected


Pieces
Pre- 7.27 113 10 11
Implementation
Post- 5.65 69 10 7
Implementation

Cost Benefit Analysis

Worker’s Wage Rate- Rs12,000/month


No of Working Days in a Month- 26 days
No of Working Hours/day- 8 hrs
Average per Minute Rate= 12000/(26x8x60)
= (12000/12480)
= Rs 0.96

Cost of Poor Quality-


Doing Rework/Alteration in 1 = Making 3 new garments in same time

Normal SAM of a Jacket=75.46min


Operational Cost/Jacket=75.46 x 0.96
=Rs72.44
Alteration SAM of a Jacket=226.38min
Operational Cost/Jacket=226.38 x 0.96
=Rs 217.32

Indirect Cost (Overhead Cost)- Overtime


Over Alteration
Add Maintenance

Overhead Cost (O/H) = 20% of Labour Cost


=20% of Rs 217.32
=Rs 43.46
Total Operational Cost of Jacket (Alteration) =217.32+43.46
=Rs 260.78

Pre-implementation:
Alteration cost= Average alteration per week x Average alteration cost
= 113 x 260.78
= ₹ 29468.14

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Post- implementation:

Alteration benefit:

No of Alter Pieces/ Total Alteration Cost Alteration Benefit


week
1st Week 56 14603.68 14864.46
2nd Week 57 14864.46 14603.68
3rd Week 72 18776.16 10691.98
4th Week 93 24252.54 5215.6
Total Profit 45375.72

Production Benefit:

Rise in Production Operational Cost per Production Benefit


Piece
1st Week -22 72.44 -1593.68
2nd Week -38 72.44 -2752.72
3rd Week 32 72.44 2311.04
4th Week 93 72.44 6736.92
Total Benefit 4701.56

Cost of Employing in-line Q.C. = Rs 10,000

Gross profit= (Alteration benefit + Production benefit) – Cost of Employing Q.C.

Gross profit= Rs 40077.28 per month i.e. Rs.1541.43 per day.

In other words, the post implementation production is 6481 pieces. So, Rs. 6.18 was saved
while manufacturing each garment.

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Results & Discussion-

After all the analysis, certain results were obtained. From all the above given tables, these
figures are clear in the report:
 Implementation of traffic light system for four weeks has resulted in an increase in
the production capacity by 6%. An average of 100 garments has been manufactured
more post-implementation each week.
 A sharp decrease of 1.91% has also been noticed in terms of alteration rate.
 A total time of 219 minutes has been saved on an average due to reduced re-work.
 At least 2% of the altered garments are saved from rejections after the
implementation of Traffic Light system showing the improvement in quality.
 78.97% of the defects are caused in 7.11% areas. So by concentrating on these areas,
most of the defects can be reduced.
 DHU was reduced to 5.3% from 6.88% in a span of 4 weeks.
 A monthly amount of rupees 40077.28 was saved on alteration.

Limitations:
 Not easy for workers to understand.
 Requires a systematic and regular attention for updating the format.
 May create extra pressure on operators which could create adverse impact in the
long run.
 Improper operator training caused rework.
 Certain critical operations were more prone to defects than others.

Further Scope:
 The formats can be put on each and every operation for complete minimization of
alteration.
 There can be a separate format for line supervisor as well; so that they also become
careful about the defected operations.
 P.A.S (Point Allocation System) could be introduced to keep the workers motivated.
 The maintenance department should be improved so as to improve the machine
conditions.
 Decrease in level of rejections and reworks and reduced fabric usage.
 Increased productivity and reduction in lead time and cost reduction and increased
profit.
 Decrease in re-work ultimate lead to profit of industry. Profits can be utilized in
bringing more advanced machines which can lead to minimum re-work.

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References-
 M. Islam, A. Khan, & M. Khan. (2013). Minimization of reworks in quality and
productivity improvement in the apparel industry. International Journal of
Engineering and Applied Sciences, 1, 4th ser. Retrieved February, 2016 from
http://eaas-journal.org/survey/userfiles/files/Minimization of Reworks in the
apparel industry.pdf.

 ‘An application of Pareto analysis and cause effect diagram for minimization of
defects’ IJMER, Vol. 3, by Tanvir Ahmed, Raj Narayan Acharjee, Noman Sikdar.

 Prasanta Sarkar, “Garment Manufacturing, processes, practices and technology”


Online Clothing Study,Gurgaon,India, Published July 2015.

 Minimization of Defects in Garment during Stitching-Ms.N.S. Patil, Mr.S.S.Rajkumar,


Ms.P.W.Chandurkar, Mr.P.P.Kolte- International Journal on Textile Engineering and
Processes Vol. 3, Issue 1 January 2017

Annexure

First off Format-Finishing

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First off Format-Sewing

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First off Format-Cutting

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RAM Report-

Shipment Tracking Sheet-

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Quality Performance Tracking Board-

Key Performance Indicator

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Roaming Q.C. Format Jacket Page-1

Page -2

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