Sei sulla pagina 1di 244

j^[

m^[Wj#\h[[
 Yeea
j^[
m^[Wj#\h[[
 Yeea
TYbaR[S_RR _RPV]R` S\_ RcR_f\[R

`WYgk[b_d[cWbbehYW
S\_ PUbPX dVYYVNZ`
P\[aR[a`

1 _djheZkYj_ed

7 ]bkj[d#\h[[]hW_di"\bekhi"
WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji

19 Xh[Wa\Wij

35 []]iWdZY^[[i[

47 l[][jWXb[iWdZ]hW_di

67 fWijW

83 X_hZi

111 c[WjWdZi[W\eeZ

129 Xh[WZi

149 Yeea_[iWdZXWhi

167 jWhjiWdZf_[i

 
vi
187 YWa[iWdZZ[ii[hji

209 ]bkj[d_djeb[hWdY[_d\ehcWj_ed%h[iekhY[i

211 cW_b#ehZ[hikffb_[hie\]bkj[d#\h[[\bekhi"]hW_di"dkji"WdZej^[h
]heY[h_[i

213 c[jh_YYedl[hi_edi

217 _dZ[n

231 WYademb[Z]c[dji


232 copyright

233 about the publisher

 Yedj[dji  l__
j^[
m^[Wj#\h[[
Yeea
V[a_\QbPaV\[

* ± 7 &  " -8":4  -07&%  $0 0, */(  and baking in par ticular, so when I was
told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet
sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between
outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to
fight back. I’d cook it.
As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was
a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However,
being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage
right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chest-
nuts, almonds, and flax began to fill my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no
problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat flour.
Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical
palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat ver-
sion. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?”
Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten-free flours lack
structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The
gluten-free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and finally hit
upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a
crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains
in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very
quick to stir together.
Day-to-day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free.
After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice flour or cornstarch
as it is with all-purpose flour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when
coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered

'
in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross-section of recipes for everyday
cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether
they’re gluten-sensitive or not.
Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten-sensitive shoppers
do have to become hawk-eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unex-
pected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll find a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that
“wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now
coming into effect are making gluten-free shopping easier every day, and some
chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hun-
dreds of gluten-free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japanese tamari sauce.
There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thor-
oughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and
friends—will enjoy them too.

dURNa NY YR_Tf cR_`b` PRYVNP QV`RN`R

A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a
wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins
in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, fish and shellfish, milk,
peanuts, soy, and tree nuts.
When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the pro-
tein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune-system attack on the
lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from
absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss,
and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated ce-
liac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia,
infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a dis-
tinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees,
and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it
might be caused by something you ate.

( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diag-
nosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individu-
als, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America.
That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5
percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million
Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in
northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difficult, as the symptoms can
mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel
syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac-related antibodies, but an intestinal bi-
opsy is usually needed.
Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease
will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the
offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown
long-term side effects.
Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant
about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and
cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps
even better and more healthfully than ever before.
Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to
cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no
problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast-food chains are generally off-
limits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In
any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no
idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full
disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac
disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain
amount of clout.
As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains
are starting to offer gluten-free specials. You’ll find that the waiters in established
restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, ex-
plaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat flour in the

_djheZkYj_ed )
sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are
nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of
you—and gain a happy repeat customer.

aUR T YbaR[ S _RR `U\]]R_

*GZPV±SFOFXUPEJOJOHXFMMXJUIPVUXIFBUPSHMVUFO LFFQUIFGPMMPXJOH®EP±T EPO±UT BOE


NBZCFT¯JONJOEXIFOHSPDFSZTIPQQJOH 'PSNBJMPSEFSTVQQMJFSTPGHMVUFOGSFFGPPET
BOENJYFT BOEVTFGVMDPOUBDUJOGPSNBUJPOGPSHMVUFOJOUPMFSBODFTVQQPSUHSPVQTBOEPUIFS
SFTPVSDFT TFFQBHF

:&4
"MMGSFTINFBUT TFBGPPE QPVMUSZ BOEFHHT¹TIDBOOFEJOPJM CSJOF PSXBUFSDVSFEPS
DPPLFENFBUTMJLFQSPTDJVUUPBOEIBNNBOZTBVTBHFT CVUBMXBZTDIFDLUIFMBCFMT

"MMQMBJOGSVJUTBOEWFHFUBCMFT GSFTI GSP[FO PSDBOOFE


QMBJOGSVJUKVJDFTGSFTIBOEESJFE
IFSCTESJFECFBOT QFBT BOEMFOUJMTPMJWFT
"MMQMBJOEBJSZQSPEVDUT JODMVEJOHNJML DSFBN BOECVUUFS4PVSDSFBN DPUUBHFDIFFTF 
BOEZPHVSUBSF¹OFJGUIFZDPOUBJOOPTVTQFDUUIJDLFOFST
"MMUZQFTPGDIFFTF FYDFQUQSPDFTTFE
TVDIBT$IFEEBS 4XJTT 1BSNFTBO SJDPUUB HPBU±T
BOETIFFQ±TNJMLDIFFTFT
0MJWFPJM DBOPMBPJM BOEPUIFSQVSFWFHFUBCMFPJMTNBSHBSJOF
"MMWJOFHBST FYDFQUNBMUWJOFHBS

5BNBSJTBVDF JGCSFXFETPMFMZGSPNTPZCFBOT
$IJDLFO CFFG BOEWFHFUBCMFCSPUIT JGUIFZDPOUBJOOPIZESPMJ[FEXIFBUQSPUFJOPSPUIFS
TPVSDFPGHMVUFO
+BNTBOEKFMMJFT IPOFZ TVHBS NPMBTTFT NBQMFTZSVQ DPSOTZSVQ
1MBJODIPDPMBUF EBSL NJML BOEXIJUF
BOEDIPDPMBUFDIJQTQVSFDPDPBQPXEFS

* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
1MBJOOVUTBOEOVUºPVSTQFBOVUCVUUFS
5FB DPGGFF BOEQVSFIPUDIPDPMBUFBOEDPDPB
1MBJOJDFDSFBNT GSP[FOZPHVSUT DIFDLUIFMBCFMT
TPSCFUT
3JDF BMMUZQFTXIJUF CSPXO DPOWFSUFE KBTNJOF CBTNBUJ "SCPSJP FUD

$PSO DPSONFBM NBTBIBSJOB HSJUT DPSOTUBSDI QPMFOUB QSFDPPLFEQPMFOUBSPMMT UPSUJMMBT 


FUD

0UIFS(SBJOT 4FFET 3PPUT BOE'MPVST


"NBSBOUI BSSPXSPPU CVDLXIFBU LBTIB
ºBY NJMMFU QPUBUPTUBSDI QPUBUPºPVS RVJOPB 
TPSHIVN TPZ UBQJPDB NBOJPD
BOEUFGG
1BTUBNBEFGSPNSJDF DPSO CVDLXIFBU RVJOPB PSBOZPUIFSHMVUFOGSFFHSBJO"TJBOSJDF
ºPVSBOENVOHCFBOOPPEMFT

.JTDFMMBOFPVT*OHSFEJFOUT
"OOBUUPDJUSJD NBMJD BOEMBDUJDBDJETHMVDPTFTZSVQHVBSHVNMFDJUIJONBMUPEFYUSJO B
DPSOEFSJWBUJWF VOSFMBUFEUPCBSMFZNBMU
QMBJOTQJDFTTVDSPTF EFYUSPTF BOEMBDUPTF
CBLJOHQPXEFS CBLJOHTPEB BOEDSFBNPGUBSUBSQVSFWBOJMMBFYUSBDUBDUJWFESZZFBTU
YBOUIBOHVN
8JOFT SFEBOEXIJUFGPSUJ¹FEXJOFTMJLFTIFSSZBMMEJTUJMMFEBMDPIPMJDCFWFSBHFTTVDIBT
CSBOEZ SVN 4DPUDI UFRVJMB BOEWPELB

. ": # &
.PEJ¹FEGPPETUBSDISFTFBSDITVHHFTUTUIBUNPTUNPEJ¹FEGPPETUBSDIVTFEJOUIF6OJUFE
4UBUFTJTDPSOTUBSDI CVUTPNFNBZCFNPEJ¹FEXIFBUTUBSDI DPOUBDUUIFNBOVGBDUVSFSJG
JOEPVCU

0BUT PBUTBSFUFDIOJDBMMZHMVUFOGSFF CVUNBZCFDPOUBNJOBUFEXJUIPUIFSHSBJOTTFF


QBHF

.VTUBSET LFUDIVQT TBMBEESFTTJOHT BOEºBWPSFEZPHVSUT UIFTFQSPEVDUTBSFVTVBMMZ


HMVUFOGSFF CVUBMXBZTSFBEUIFMBCFMT

1IBSNBDFVUJDBMT QIBSNBDFVUJDBMTBSFVTVBMMZHMVUFOGSFF CVUDIFDLUPNBLFTVSF

_djheZkYj_ed +
/0
8IFBU BOEBOZUIJOHXJUIXIFBUJOJUTOBNFFYDFQUCVDLXIFBU BNJTOPNFS JUJTHMVUFO
GSFF
BOEBOZGPSNPGXIFBU TVDIBTCVMHVS CSFBEºPVS DBLFºPVS DPVTDPVT EVSVN 
FJOLPSO FNNFS GBSJOB GBSSP LBNVU NBU[P TFNPMJOB TQFMU USJUJDBMF BOEXIFBUCSBO
#SFBE QJ[[B IBNCVSHFSCVOT DPPLJFT DSBDLFST QSFU[FMT BOEPUIFSCBLFSZJUFNTNBEF
GSPNXIFBU CBSMFZ PSSZFºPVS
#SFBLGBTUDFSFBMT FYDFQUUIPTFNBSLFEHMVUFOGSFF &WFOTUBOEBSEDPSOºBLFTDPOUBJONBMU
ºBWPSJOH XIJDIJTNBEFGSPNCBSMFZ

1BTUBNBEFGSPNXIFBU
'PPETDPOUBJOJOHNPEJ¹FEXIFBUTUBSDI IZESPMJ[FEXIFBUQSPUFJO NBMU ºBWPSJOH TZSVQ 
PSFYUSBDU
BOENBMUWJOFHBS
.FBU QPVMUSZ TFBGPPE PSWFHFUBCMFTUIBUIBWFCFFOCSFBEFEPSºPVSFE PSBSFTFSWFEXJUI
BTBVDFPSHSBWZUIJDLFOFEXJUIXIFBUºPVSPSNBSJOBUFEJOBNJYUVSFUIBUDPOUBJOTTPZ
TBVDFPSUFSJZBLJTBVDF5IJTJODMVEFTNPTUGSP[FONFBMT GBTUGPPET TOBDLGPPET BOE
EFMJUBLFPVUJUFNT
$BOOFETPVQTBOEDIJDLFO CFFG BOEWFHFUBCMFCSPUITDPOUBJOJOHºPVSPSIZESPMJ[FE
XIFBUQSPUFJO CBSMFZ PSQBTUB
#FFS BTJUJTCSFXFEGSPNCBSMFZ)PXFWFS HMVUFOGSFFCFFSTNBEFJOUIF6OJUFE4UBUFT 
$BOBEB #SJUBJO BOE"VTUSBMJBBSFOPXBQQFBSJOHPOUIFNBSLFU

)BQQJMZ HMVUFOGSFFTIPQQJOHCFDPNFTFBTJFSBMMUIFUJNF5IFOVNCFSPGNBOVGBDUVSFST
NBLJOHHMVUFOGSFFGPPETJTJODSFBTJOHSBQJEMZ BOEOFXSFTFBSDIPGUFOTIJGUTGPPETGSPN
UIF®NBZCF¯UPUIF®ZFT¯DBUFHPSZ'PSXFMMSFTFBSDIFE VQUPEBUFJOGPSNBUJPOBCPVU
XIBU±TJOUIBUVTFEUPCFPVU SFBEUIFNBHB[JOF(MVUFO'SFF-JWJOH­TFFQBHFGPS
EFUBJMT

, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
TYbaR[ S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_`
N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`

8)&/ :06 -00, #& :0/%  8 )& "5  there’s a whole cornucopia of
gluten-free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn
of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with
corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South
American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the an-
cient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in
India today), and northern European buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botani-
cally related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make
wonderful flour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of flour.
I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredi-
ents most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used
whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into flour and used for baking, and most
are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain flours, with all
their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and fiber as
well as good flavors.
As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten-free flours in small quantities
and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they con-
tain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten-free
flours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural
foods stores can be cross-contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a
neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat flour.

-
In your own kitchen, keep any gluten-containing products strictly segregated,
and don’t share hard-to-clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten-free
bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny
amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs.
You can grind your own flours from gluten-free whole grains, but it may be
more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more
noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late-lamented cat flying
from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts flour
over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than
coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of flaxeeds or nuts to flour. A food
processor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the
latter unless you add rice flour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly all-
purpose flour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different
ratios of gluten-free flours to be at their best.

NYZ\[Q ZRNYSY\b_

Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off-white flour is
invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can
find a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices
(Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill
reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food
processor, combining whole almonds with a little rice flour or sugar, subtracted
from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into
paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup
of ready-ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces.

NZN_N[aU

A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus
caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium,
iron, and fiber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.

. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
N__\d_\\a `aN_PU

Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North
America as a thickener, this cornstarch-like product gives a glossy finish to sauces.
Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked
cookies into cement.

O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ dUVaR _VPR SY\b_

The all-purpose workhorse of the gluten-free kitchen, flour milled from brown
rice is mellow in flavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice flour (not
to be confused with Asian rice flour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice.
When used in baking, both brown rice flour and white rice flour are usually com-
bined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly
coarse texture.

ObPXdURNa ObPXdURNa SY\b_

Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch
bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buck-
wheat is a hardy plant that manages to flourish in poor soils and inhospitable
climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japanese soba noo-
dles, buckwheat flour is excellent in rustic flatbreads. The whole grains or
groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an
Italian risotto.

PUR`a[ba` PUR`a[ba SY\b_

The European chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than
any other tree nut, and makes a sweet-tasting flour. Once used by poor peasants
in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food to-
day. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stuffing ingredient, or

]bkj[d#\ h[[]hW_di"\bekhi"WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji /
be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuum-
packed, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102.

PUVPX]RN` PUVPX]RN SY\b_

Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chick-
pea flour has a distinctive but pleasant flavor, making it a good candidate for
breads but not cakes. Universally popular Middle Eastern dishes like hummus
and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer with-
out them. Garfava flour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean flour.

PU\P\YNaR

Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin
America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Caribbean. Depending on
where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct flavor charac-
teristics: fruity, floral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermenta-
tion, when they start to develop their unique flavors, and are then dried and
graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or
nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of
cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate
is essentially solidified chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter.
Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar,
so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao
butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk
solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate
chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and
eating—for their rich flavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark
chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the
chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give first-rate results in
baking.

'& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


P\P\N ]\dQR_

Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about


three-quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.)
The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or
Dutch-processed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense choc-
olate flavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Her-
shey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa is
treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate flavor,
and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands.
Both natural and Dutch-processed cocoa make good gluten-free baking ingredi-
ents.

P\_ [ P\_[ZRNY P\_ [`aN_PU


Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of
grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn
is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American
cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now
become popular. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino
acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated”
when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener
for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy finish. Particularly useful in bak-
ing, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten-free flours,
but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is gener-
ally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour
in baking.

SYNe`RRQ` SYNeZRNY

According to nutritionists, flaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the
planet. They contain more heart-healthy omega-3 oil than fish and more fiber than

]bkj[d#\ h[[]hW_di"\bekhi"WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji ''


oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy flavor. You can grind your own using an
electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is
extremely hard), or buy preground flaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal
can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in flax
oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views
about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142
for more information about flaxseeds.

TN_ON[g\ SY\b_

See Chickpea Flour.

TN_SNcN SY\b_

See Chickpea Flour.

YR[aVY` YR[aVY SY\b_

One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown,
green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The
little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of len-
til flour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that
complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the la-
bel to make sure they are gluten-free.) Lentil flour is good in flatbreads, and lentil
flour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups.

ZN[V\P SY\b_

See Tapioca Starch.

'( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


ZVYYRa ZVYYRa SY\b_

One of the first grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutri-
tious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India,
it is also popular in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a
mellow, nutty flavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North Amer-
ica are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an
excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out
its delicate flavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey.
Use the flour mixed with other gluten-free flours in breads and muffins.

Z\[aV[N Z\[aV[N SY\b_

Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in
poor soils, this high protein grain yields good flour for gluten-free baking.

[ba` [ba SY\b_`

A storehouse of vitamins, minerals, and fiber as well as being good to eat at any
time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten-free flours.
True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart-healthy, mono- or poly-
unsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the flavorful oil content can take the
place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for flour. Nutrient-rich
peanuts are not true nuts but legumes.

\Na` \Na SY\b_ \NaZRNY

Oats do not contain gluten, despite long-standing claims to the contrary. Oats, how-
ever, are particularly subject to cross-contamination by other grains in the field, or
during the milling and packing process in a plant that also handles other grains. In
a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University,
readers were advised that multiple studies in Europe and the United States show

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a` 


that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten-free oats
are available by mail order from the Gluten-Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyo-
ming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from
the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientific studies have shown that oats contain a
special form of fiber, beta-glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol.

]\aNa\ SY\b_

This is a heavy, strongly flavored flour sometimes added to bread in small amounts.
Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful.

]\aNa\ `aN_PU

A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener,
potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice
flour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole-grain brown rice flour.

^bV[\N ^bV[\N SYNXR` ^bV[\N SY\b_

Along with amaranth, high-protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire
before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for reli-
gious and political reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole
grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the flour—used in conjunction with
other gluten-free flours—is good in breads. Quinoa flakes make a mellow, high-
protein addition to homemade muesli, stuffings, and meat loaves, and can be
cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the
residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects.

_VPR

Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hun-
dreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry

'* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is fluffier when
cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier
and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice con-
tains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potas-
sium, and fiber. White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. In the United
States, most refined white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least
some of the nutrients lost during processing, but not the fiber. Converted rice is par-
boiled before refining, a process that forces some of the B vitamins into the endo-
sperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful
as brown rice. Some round-grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish
Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing flavorful broths during cooking while
simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten-free, from Uncle
Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japanese black rice. Glutinous
rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten.

_VPR SY\b_ N`VN[

Not the same product as rice flour milled from brown or white rice, silky white
rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in
gluten-free baking.

`\_TUbZZVY\

A hardy, gluten-free mild-tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sor-


ghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as flour.

`\f SY\b_

Like most bean flours, yellow soy flour has a pronounced flavor. A cheap source of
protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen des-
serts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten-free breads, but it makes
them dense.

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a` '+


`dRRa _VPR SY\b_`aN_PU

Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral-tasting (not sweet) starch
has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combina-
tion with other gluten-free flours, as it helps to retain moisture.

aN]V\PN `aN_PU

A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten-free flours, tapioca
starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc
and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made
into a milk-based pudding.

aRSS SY\b_

Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now culti-
vated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish flour at
some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff flour has a sweet, molasseslike
flavor and makes exceptional gluten-free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It
can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over
twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff
contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk.

dVYQ _VPR

This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky-flavored seed
of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is
usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive
though delicious flavor, wild rice has twice the protein and fiber of brown rice, but
not as much iron and calcium.

', j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


eN[aUN[ TbZ

Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and
is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8-ounce bag goes a
long way. Invaluable in gluten-free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps
to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also benefits shortcrust
pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be
found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and
on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room tempera-
ture.

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a` 17


Xh[Wa\W ij
(*7&/  5)&  13& 7" -&/$&  0'  # 09&%  $&3& " - 4 toast, bagels, and
doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds
difficult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and muffins made with
alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour
English Muffins (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever
you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when
there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple
crumble, or an almond flour coffee cake like Grandma never made.

19
f\Tb_a²_VPR SY\b_ ]N[PNXR`

"  (-6 5 &/  ' 3&&  # "5 5 &3 makes exception- DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

ally tender pancakes, and cooking them on an un- UFBTQPPOTVHBS


greased nonstick griddle ensures a fine surface 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
texture. It also prevents the aroma of burned but- UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB

ter from permeating your kitchen. The recipe can MBSHFFHH


be doubled easily. UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM
DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML

ZPHVSU
9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"ik]Wh"iWbj"WdZXWa_d]ieZW$?dW
i[fWhWj[Xemb"c_nj^[[]]"YWdebWe_b"WdZoe]khj$7ZZ
jej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[djiWdZij_hkdj_biceej^$J^[XWjj[h
m_bb beea j^_Ya WdZ fk\\o$ >[Wj W ^[Wlo dedij_Ya ia_bb[j
eh]h_ZZb[el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"XkjZedej]h[Wi[_j$
7ZZj^[XWjj[hXoj^[^[Wf[ZjWXb[ifeed\kb"ifWY_d]j^[
fWdYWa[i ' _dY^ WfWhj WdZ ÅWjj[d_d] j^[ XWjj[h W b_jjb[
m_j^j^[XWYae\j^[ifeed$9eeakdj_b]ebZ[dedXej^
i_Z[i"(c_dkj[iehb[ii$IjWYaed^[Wj[ZfbWj[ieha[[f N  . BLFTU ISFFJ ODI
QBODBLFT
mWhc_dWbemel[d$

O_RNXSN`a 21
_VPR SY\b_ P_|]R`

MBSHFFHHT 6/-*,& " $3Á1& # "5 5 &3 made with wheat


1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU flour, which has to stand for a while to let the glu-
1JODIPGTVHBS ten relax, this one can be used immediately. Quick
DVQNJML to make and extremely versatile, crêpes can con-
DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS tain savory or sweet fillings, from Italian beef
DVQDPSOTUBSDI ragù (page 73) to applesauce. They can be made
UBCMFTQPPOTNFMUFE ahead and refrigerated or frozen.
CVUUFS QMVTFYUSBGPS
TLJMMFU
 ?d W Xb[dZ[h eh \eeZ fheY[iieh" YecX_d[ j^[ []]i"
iWbj"ik]Wh"WdZc_ba$FheY[iijeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh
WdZYehdijWhY^"WdZfheY[iikdj_biceej^$Fekh_djeW
XembWdZij_h_dj^[Xkjj[h$J^[j[njkh[i^ekbZX[b_a[j^_d
Yh[Wc$Ij_heYYWi_edWbbom^_b[cWa_d]j^[Yh…f[i"WZZ_d]
Wb_jjb[mWj[h_\j^[XWjj[hX[Yec[ijeej^_Ya$
 >[WjWd.#_dY^dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj"WdZ
]h[Wi[b_]^jbom_j^Xkjj[h$Ded[[Zjeh[f[Wjj^_iij[f$
N  . BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ Ki_d]WicWbbc[Wikh_d]Ykf"bWZb[WXekj(jWXb[ifeedi
e\j^[XWjj[h_djej^[fWd"j_bj_d]j^[fWdXoj^[^WdZb[
je Yel[h j^[ Xejjec$ M^[d b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z" WXekj '
c_dkj["jkhdm_j^WdobedifWjkbWWdZYeea\ehW\khj^[h
)& i[YedZi$ IjWYa j^[ Yh…f[i ed W fbWj[ m_j^ j^[ m[bb#
Xhemd[Zi_Z[Zemd$
 JeÄbbWdZhebb"fbWY[WXekj'À)Ykfe\oekhY^ei[dÄbb_d]
Zemdj^[Y[dj[he\j^[fWb[hi_Z[e\[WY^Yh…f[$Hebbkf
b_a[WY_]Whm_j^j^[Xhemd[Zi_Z[ekj$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[
ehXWa_d]Z_i^m_j^j^[i[Wci_Z[Zemd$

(( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_

<bekh c_bb[Z \hec Xhemd h_Y[ mWi edY[ Z_ic_ii[Z Wi X[_d] e\ _dj[h[ij edbo je ^[Wbj^ \eeZ
\WdWj_Yi"Xkj_jidkjjoÅWlehWdZ^[Wbj^\kbgkWb_j_[idemWjjhWYjcW_dijh[WcY^[\i$Kdb_a[m^_j[
h_Y[" Xhemd h_Y[ kdZ[h]e[i edbo c_deh c_bb_d]$ @kij j^[ ekj[h ^kia _i h[cel[Z" b[Wl_d] j^[
^[Wbj^\kbXhWdbWo[h_djWYj$<bekhcWZ[\hec_j^WiWded_djhki_l["c[bbemÅWleh$M^[dc_n[Z
m_j^ ej^[h ]bkj[d#\h[[ Åekhi" _j YWd cWa[ Z[b_Y_eki Xh[WZi m_j^ W Yh_if Yhkij WdZ W j[dZ[h
YhkcX$ 8kj dej WbmWoi$ J^ki \Wh" j^[ b[WZ[d" fh[ib_Y[Z h_Y[ Åekh beWl[i WlW_bWXb[ _d dWjkhWb
\eeZiijeh[iYekbZZekXb[WiZeehijefi$
M^[d_jYec[ijecWa_d]YWa[iWdZfWijho"Xhemdh_Y[Åekh¼ibWYae\]bkj[dX[Yec[iWd
WZlWdjW][$M^_b[_Z[Wb\ehXh[WZcWa_d]"]bkj[dYWdcWa[ej^[hXWa[Z_j[cijek]^"^[dY[j^[
ki[e\bem#]bkj[dYWa[WdZfWijhoÅekhi_dkfiYWb[XWa[h_[i$
:ed¼jYed\ki[c_bb[Z]hekdZh_Y[Åekhm_j^7i_Wdh_Y[Åekh"Wi_baom^_j[femZ[hckY^b_a[
YehdijWhY^$J^[bWjj[h^Wi_jiki[i"XkjcWa[ij[hh_Xb[Xh[WZed_jiemd$Edj^[ej^[h^WdZ"
\eh][d[hWbXWa_d]"WicWbbfhefehj_ede\7i_Wdh_Y[Åekh%ijWhY^"YehdijWhY^"ehfejWjeijWhY^
XWbWdY[iekjj^[ib_]^jboYeWhi[j[njkh[e\Xhemdh_Y[Åekhl[hod_Y[bo$JWf_eYWijWhY^i[hl[ij^[
iWc[fkhfei[XkjWZZiWY^[mo[b[c[dj"ie_j¼iX[ijki[Z\ehXh[WZi$
8hemdh_Y[ÅekhYWdX[\ekdZ_ddWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[iWdZiec[ikf[hcWha[ji"WdZXocW_b
ehZ[hi[[fW][(''$M^_j[h_Y[Åekhc_bb[Z\hecfeb_i^[Zm^_j[h_Y[Ze[id¼jYedjW_dWbbj^[
ÄX[hWdZ8#]hekfl_jWc_di"m^_Y^Wh[beijm^[dj^[XhWd_ihkXX[Ze\\"Xkj_j¼iki[\kb_dY[hjW_d
XWa[Z]eeZiWdZ\ehZkij_d]Äi^Äbb[jiehY^_Ya[dX[\eh[Yeea_d]Wi_j]_l[iYh_if[hh[ikbjij^Wd
Xhemdh_Y[Åekh"m^_Y^_iie\j[hZk[jej^[XhWdYedj[dj$
7bmWoiijeh[Xhemdh_Y[Åekh_dj^[h[\h_][hWjeheh\h[[p[h$8[_d]W^[Wbj^\kb"fh[i[hlWj_l[#\h[["
m^eb[]hW_dÅekh"_jYWd]ehWdY_ZWjheecj[cf[hWjkh[$

O_RNXSN`a 23
_VPR O_N[ N[Q _NV`V[ ZbSSV[`

DVQSJDFCSBO 5 36 5 )  50  5 &- -  5 )&3&± 4  not much dif-


DVQSBJTJOT ference between the average American muffin
DVQTNJML and a British cupcake. These muffins are of the
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
 more restrained plain variety, and are delicious
VOTBMUFECVUUFS  with butter and marmalade. Like all muffins, they
TPGUFOFE should be served warm. By the way, aluminum
DVQQBDLFEEBSL foil muffin cups will stand unaided on a baking
CSPXOTVHBS sheet, and baked muffins don’t stick to them.
MBSHFFHH
DVQIPOFZ

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&–<$ =h[Wi[ ck\Äd fWdi eh
DVQDPSOTUBSDI b_d[ m_j^ YkfYWa[ fWf[hi$ 7bj[hdWj_l[bo" fbWY[ '* Åkj[Z
UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH Wbkc_dkc\e_bck\ÄdYkfiedWXWa_d]i^[[j"
QPXEFS  9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ XhWd" hW_i_di" WdZ c_ba _d W bWh][
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU Xemb"WdZb[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i$
DVQTMJDFEBMNPOET   9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ Xhemd ik]Wh je][j^[h kdj_b
PQUJPOBM Åk\\o"j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]WdZ^ed[okdj_biceej^$Ij_h
_djej^[h_Y[XhWd·c_bac_njkh[$9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"
N  . BLFT YehdijWhY^" XWa_d] femZ[h" WdZ iWbj" WdZ i_\j _dje j^[
XWjj[h$Ij_hm[bbjec_n"WdZifeed_djej^[ck\ÄdYkfi"
Äbb_d]j^[cjme#j^_hZi\kbb$Jef
m_j^ ib_Y[Z WbcedZi" _\ ki_d]$
8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ
h_i[d"(+c_dkj[i$I[hl[mWhc$

(* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
a\N`aRQ ^bV[\N ZbR`YV

.6& 4-*  8" 4  03*(*/ " - -:  $3& "5 &%  in DVQDIPQQFEQFDBOT

Switzerland about a century ago by Dr. Max PSTMJDFE UPBTUFE


Bircher-Benner, who served soaked raw oat BMNPOET
flakes, nuts, and grated apple to patients at his BQQMF VOQFFMFE DPSFE
natural health clinic in Zurich. A dear German BOEDIPQQFE
friend, Inge Roberts, introduced me to her more UBCMFTQPPOTSBJTJOT
luxurious version. She uses oats (see page 13 for DVQRVJOPBºBLFT 

more information on their gluten-free status); MJHIUMZUPBTUFEJOBESZ


toasted quinoa flakes taste equally good. The rec- TLJMMFU
ipe can be multiplied ad infinitum. CBOBOB TMJDFE
DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML
ZPHVSU
9ecX_d[ j^[ f[YWdi" Wffb[" WdZ hW_i_di _d W \eeZ fhe# UBCMFTQPPOTCFSSZ
Y[iiehWdZfkbi[jecWa[WY^kdaoiWkY[$7ZZj^[gk_deW TBVDFPSIPOFZ
ÅWa[i"WdZfkbi[Xh_[Åojec_n$:_l_Z[X[jm[[d(Xembi"
WdZjefm_j^j^[ib_Y[ZXWdWdWWdZoe]khj$:h_ppb[m_j^
X[hhoiWkY[eh^ed[o$
N  4 FSWFT

O_RNXSN`a 25
SVT ^ bV[\N O_RNXSN`a ON_`

MBSHFFHHT ,/08 /  " 4  '*(  *4 " "$ 4  to my nearest and


DVQDBOPMBPJM dearest, these nutritious bars are addictive. Like
UBCMFTQPPOEBSL the Gingerbread-Flax Bars that follow, they freeze
NPMBTTFT well and make excellent brown-bag fare.
UBCMFTQPPOT4FWJMMF
PSBOHFNBSNBMBEFPS
BQSJDPUKBN  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+–<$ =h[Wi[ j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd
UP PVODFT
TPGU .#_dY^ igkWh[ XWa_d] fWd WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ m_j^
ESJFE$BMJNZSOBPS fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
#MBDL.JTTJPO¹HT   8[Wj j^[ []]i m_j^ j^[ YWdebW e_b" cebWii[i" WdZ
TUFNTSFNPWFE ¹OFMZ cWhcWbWZ[kdj_biceej^$Ij_h_dj^[Ä]i$
DIPQQFE  9ecX_d[j^[gk_deWÅWa[i"h_Y[Åekh"nWdj^Wd]kc"
DVQRVJOPBºBLFT XWa_d]femZ[h"iWbj"ik]Wh"WdZmWbdkji_dWXemb$7ZZ
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS j^[ Ä] c_njkh[" WdZ ij_h m[bb je c_n$ J^[ XWjj[h m_bb X[
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO ij_\\$JhWdi\[hjej^[fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZXWa[kdj_b
HVN b_]^j]ebZWdZib_]^jboh_i[d"'.je(&c_dkj[i$B[Wl[_d
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH j^[fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"beei[dj^[i_Z[im_j^Wad_\["j^[d
QPXEFS jkhdekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeeb
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU Yecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf$9kj_d^Wb\"j^[dib_Y[[WY^^Wb\
DVQTVHBS _dje,XWhi$
DVQ PVODFT


XBMOVUTPSQFDBOT 
DIPQQFE

N  . BLFTCBST

(, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
TV[TR_O_RNQ S YNe ON_`

" / 05 )&3  ) " 11 :  " -5 &3/ "5 * 7 &  50 DVQºBYNFBM

commercially made breakfast bars, these bar DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

cookies are reminiscent of French pain d’ épice, or DVQBMNPOENFBM PS

spice bread. Wrap them individually and freeze DVQXIPMFBMNPOET

for breakfasts on the run. DVQUBQJPDBºPVS

UFBTQPPOCBLJOH
QPXEFS
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$=h[Wi[jmeeffei_j[i_Z[i UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
e\Wd.#_dY^igkWh[XWa_d]fWdWdZb_d[j^[XWi[WdZj^[ UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN
ej^[hjmei_Z[im_j^Wi^[[je\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

 9ecX_d[ j^[ ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" WbcedZ c[Wb" DJOOBNPO


jWf_eYWÅekh"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"nWdj^Wd]kc" UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

Y_ddWced"Wbbif_Y["]_d][h"WdZiWbj_dWXemb$?\ki_d] BMMTQJDF
m^eb[WbcedZi"YecX_d[_dW\eeZfheY[iiehWdZfhe# UFBTQPPOHSPVOE
Y[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$ HJOHFS
 8[Wj j^[ YWdebW e_b" cebWii[i" Xhemd ik]Wh" c_ba" 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
WdZ[]]ije][j^[h$7ZZjej^[Åekhc_njkh["WdZX[Wjje UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM
YecX_d[ m[bb$ JhWdi\[h j^[ XWjj[h je j^[ fWd" WdZ XWa[ UBCMFTQPPOTEBSL
kdj_bj^[]_d][hXh[WZ_iWi^_doXhemdWdZijWhjijefkbb NPMBTTFT
WmWo \hec j^[ i_Z[i" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ B[Wl[ _d j^[ UBCMFTQPPOTEBSL
fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"j^[dbeei[dj^[kdb_d[Zi_Z[ie\j^[ CSPXOTVHBS
]_d][hXh[WZm_j^Wad_\[WdZjkhdekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$ DVQNJML

F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeebYecfb[j[bo$ 9kj _d ^Wb\" MBSHFFHHT


j^[dib_Y[[WY^^Wb\_dje,XWhi$
N  . BLFTCBST

O_RNXSN`a 27
`]VPRQ N]]YR P_ bZOYR

PS QPVOET
 5 )*4  /04 5" -(*$  %& 44&3 5  . " , & 4  a
(SBOOZ4NJUIPS surprise—and always popular—appearance on a
QJQQJOBQQMFT QFFMFE  brunch table. Slicing the apples extra thin and
DPSFE IBMWFE BOE tossing them in a little rice flour and sugar pro-
DVUJOUPJODIUIJDL motes an ideal texture. Start the crumble early: it
TMJDFT has to cool down a bit before you serve it. Accom-
(SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM pany with Honeyed Yogurt (page 29) or whipped
PSBOHF cream.
UBCMFTQPPOTGSFTI
PSBOHFKVJDF
DVQTVHBS  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&–<$ 8kjj[h Wd . s '&#_dY^
UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO Y[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^$
SJDFºPVS  9ecX_d[ j^[ Wffb[i m_j^ j^[ ehWd][ p[ij" ehWd][
UFBTQPPOHSPVOE `k_Y["ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZYbel[i$C_n][djbom_j^oekh
DMPWFT ^WdZiWdZjhWdi\[hjej^[XWa_d]Z_i^$
 <eh j^[ jeff_d]0 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" mWbdkji"
ik]Wh"dkjc[]"WdZiWbj$7ZZj^[Xkjj[hWdZc_nm_j^W
N  4 FSWFT fWijho Xb[dZ[h eh oekh
Äd][hj_fi kdj_b j^[ X_ji
e\ Xkjj[h Wh[ j^[ i_p[ e\
icWbb f[Wi$ Ifh[WZ j^[
c_njkh[[l[dboedjefe\
j^[Wffb[i$
 8Wa[ \eh '+ c_dkj[i"
j^[d h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je
)+&–< WdZ XWa[ \eh )&
c_dkj[ibed][hkdj_bj^[

(. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
jeff_d]_i]ebZ[dXhemdWdZj^[Wffb[iWh[j[dZ[h$?\_j¼i t opping
dejXhemd[dek]^"ib_Z[j^[Z_i^kdZ[hW^ejXhe_b[h\eh DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

Wc_dkj[ehjme$B[jYeebjebka[mWhcX[\eh[i[hl_d]$ UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
XBMOVUT
DVQTVHBS

U\[RfRQ f\Tb_ a UFBTQPPOOVUNFH 

QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ
M^_ia)je*jWXb[ifeediYb[Wh^ed[oWdZ 'À*j[Wifeed HSBUFE PSHSPVOE
lWd_bbW[njhWYj_dje(YkfifbW_dm^eb[c_baoe]khj$ DJOOBNPO
JecWa[[njhW#j^_Ya=h[[a#ijob[oe]khj"i[[fW]['--$ 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL

VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME 
DVUVQ

O_RNXSN`a 29
]\]]f `RRQ N[Q PVa_ b` Y\NS

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
 5)*4 3&$*1& .",&4 &*5)&3 one loaf cake
VOTBMUFECVUUFS  or a dozen tender muffins that can be frozen and
TPGUFOFE reheated. It’s best to buy poppy seeds in bulk at a
DVQTVHBS natural foods store and keep them in the freezer,
;FTUPGTNBMMPSBOHF where they won’t go stale or rancid. Buying them in
UBCMFTQPPOMFNPO little glass spice bottles is surprisingly expensive.
KVJDF
MBSHFFHHT
UPUBCMFTQPPOT  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ =h[Wi[ Wd . s *#_dY^
QPQQZTFFET beW\ fWd WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$
DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS 7bj[hdWj_l[bo"]h[Wi[W'(#Ykfck\ÄdfWdehWhhWd]['(
DVQDPSOTUBSDI Åkj[ZWbkc_dkc\e_bck\ÄdYkfiedWXWa_d]i^[[j$
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU  ?dWbWh][Xemb"X[Wjj^[Xkjj[hWdZik]Whkdj_bb_]^j
UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH WdZÅk\\o$=hWj[j^[p[ije\\j^[ehWd][h_]^j_djej^[
QPXEFS Xemb" je YWjY^ j^[ WhecWj_Y ifhWo e\ ehWd][ e_b$ 7ZZ
-BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH  j^[b[ced`k_Y[$8[Wj_dj^[[]]ied[WjWj_c["j^[dWZZ
QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ j^[feffoi[[Zi$
HSBUFE  9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" iWbj" XWa_d]
UBCMFTQPPOTNJML femZ[h" WdZ dkjc[]$ 8[Wj _dje j^[ XWjj[h W b_jjb[ Wj W

N  4 FSWFTUP

)& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


j_c[kdj_biceej^$8[Wj_dj^[c_ba$Ifeed_djej^[beW\
fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZYkjWjh[dY^Zemdj^[Y[dj[h
je c_d_c_p[ YhWYa_d]$ 8Wa[ kdj_b b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z WdZ
Wd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya[c[h][iYb[Wd"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$
B[Wl[_dj^[fWd\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]"WdZ
b[jYeebh_]^ji_Z[kfedWm_h[hWYa$?\cWa_d]ck\Ädi"
XWa[kdj_b]ebZ[d"WXekj((c_dkj[i$

O_RNXSN`a 31
NYZ\[Q ] YbZ _VPR SY\b_
P\SSRR PNXR

TPGUQJUUFEQSVOFT  136/& 4 )"7& $0.& 61 in the world. They


DVUJORVBSUFST are now referred to, by the Sunsweet growers in
;FTUPGMFNPO DVUJO California at any rate, as dried plums. Whatever
JODIXJEFTUSJQT you choose to call them, prunes are generously en-
DVQTVHBS dowed with fiber and potassium, and they make
MBSHFFHHT this rich-tasting but butterless cake moist and nat-
DVQBMNPOENFBM urally sweet.
PSDVQXIPMF
BMNPOET

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS  >[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH /#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\
QPXEFS fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS  FbWY[j^[fhkd[i"b[cedp[ij"WdZ(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[
ik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iikdj_b[l[dbo]hekdZ$
7ZZ'e\j^[[]]iWdZfheY[iijeXb[dZ"iYhWf_d]Zemd
j^[XembWid[[Z[Z$
 C_nj^[WbcedZc[Wb"h_Y[Åekh"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h
N  4 FSWFT je][j^[h" WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$ ?\ ki_d] m^eb[ WbcedZi"
YecX_d[ _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh WdZ fheY[ii je W Äd[
c[Wb$
 9ecX_d[ j^[ h[cW_d_d] ) []]i WdZ ik]Wh _d W
Xemb$ 8[Wj Wj ^_]^ if[[Z je j^[ j^_Ya h_XXed ijW]["
-c_dkj[i$
 Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifeed^Wb\j^[fhkd[c_njkh[
WhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb WdZ \ebZ _d" \ebbem[Z Xo
^Wb\j^[Åekhc_njkh[$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_dZ[h$@kij
Zkcf_d]_jWbbedjefmekbZZ[ÅWj[j^[XWjj[h$JhWdi\[h

)( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
jej^[fh[fWh[ZfWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZXWa[kdj_bj^[
YWa[_i]ebZ[dWdZi^h_daiWmWoib_]^jbo\hecj^[[Z][
e\j^[fWdWdZWd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya[c[h][iYb[Wd")&
c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb_dj^[fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"j^[dkdcebZ
WdZf[[be\\j^[XWa_d]fWhY^c[dj$B[jYeeb"h_]^ji_Z[
kf"edWm_h[hWYa$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]WhX[\eh[
i[hl_d]$

O_RNXSN`a 33
 [] ]iWdZ
Y^[[i[
'03  4 "5 *4' : */ (  0 ''5 )&4 )&- '  ( -6 5 &/  ' 3&&  .& " - 4 
consider the egg. Perfectly packaged by Mother Nature, eggs will keep refrig-
erated for a month after the lay date, they’re rich in protein and vitamins, and
they team beautifully with cheese. All cheeses are gluten-free (except processed
cheese, which can have all kinds of odd ingredients), with Parmigiano-Reggiano,
cave-aged Swiss Gruyère, and sharp Cheddar topping my list of favorites for
cooking.

)+
P_RNZf a\ZNa\ N[Q
RTT Pb__ f

5 )*4  7 &(& 5" 3*" /  %*4)  ) " 4  lots of fla- UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM


vor and is a great standby when there’s no time POJPOT BCPVU
for grocery shopping. Crispy imported Indian PVODFTFBDI

lentil flour poppadums make the perfect foil, and IBMWFEBOEUIJOMZ
can be heated and puffed in a microwave oven. TMJDFE
(They are traditionally gluten-free, but check the HBSMJDDMPWFT UIJOMZ
TMJDFE
label.) Look for aromatic cardamom seeds in the
UFBTQPPOTDVSSZ
spice department of a supermarket or natural
QPXEFSPSUPUBTUF
foods store. They come encased in white or green UFBTQPPODBSEBNPN
pods. TFFET
DBO PVODFT

EJDFEUPNBUPFT
 >[Wj j^[ YWdebW e_b _d W ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj DVQDPPLFEPSDBOOFE
kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_edi WdZ Yeea" ij_hh_d] HBSCBO[PCFBOT 
e\j[d" kdj_b jhWdibkY[dj WdZ ijWhj_d] je jkhd ]ebZ[d" - SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE
c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[]Whb_Y"YkhhofemZ[h"WdZYWhZWcec 'JOFTFBTBMU PQUJPOBM
DVQQMBJOXIPMF
i[[Zi"WdZYeea\eh)&i[YedZikdj_b\hW]hWdj$7ZZj^[
jecWje[i"_dYbkZ_d]j^[`k_Y["j^[]WhXWdpeX[Wdi"WdZ NJMLZPHVSU BUSPPN
)À*YkfmWj[h$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZ UFNQFSBUVSF
i_cc[h"kdYel[h[Z"je\ehcWj^_YaiWkY["(&c_dkj[i$ MBSHFFHHT IBSECPJMFE
7ZZWb_jjb[ceh[mWj[h_\j^[iWkY[Wff[WhijeX[Zho_d] $PPLFEMPOHHSBJOXIJUF
SJDF
ekj$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"jWij["WdZWZZiWbj_\d[[Z[Z$
.BOHPPSQFBDI
Ij_h_dj^[oe]khj$
DIVUOFZ
 I^[bbWdZ^Wbl[j^[[]]i"WdZ][djboij_h_djej^[iWkY[$
8BSNQPQQBEVNT 
I[hl[m_j^h_Y["Y^kjd[o"WdZfeffWZkci"_\ki_d]$
PQUJPOBM

N  4 FSWFT

RTT` N[Q PURR`R 37


-ANBA?PHU KKGA@%=N@ KEHA@"CCO

FbWY[j^[[]]i_dWiWkY[fWd"Yel[hm_j^YebZmWj[h"WdZ
Xh_d]jeWXe_b$9el[hj^[fWd"h[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZ
b[jijWdZ\eh'(c_dkj[i$J^[oebaiWim[bbWij^[m^_j[i
m_bbX[ÄhcWbbj^[mWoj^hek]^"WdZ`kijh_]^j$

). j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
T\Na PURR`R N[Q ]\aNa\
\ ]R[ S NPRQ \ZRYRa

:0 6 ±--  /&&%  -&' 507&3  # 0*-&%  pota- MBSHFFHHT


toes for this creamy omelet, which can be tossed UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
together in a few minutes. The skillet bread on PMJWFPJM
page 143 and a green salad go well here. NFEJVNSFEPSXIJUF
QPUBUPFT QFFMFE 
CPJMFE BOETMJDFE 
 8[Wj j^[ []]i _d W bWh][ Xemb WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$ >[Wj DPME
j^[eb_l[e_b_dW'&#_dY^el[dfhee\ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ
^[Wj"WdZ\hoj^[fejWje[iWdZed_edkdj_b]ebZ[d",je- DIPQQFE
c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[]Whb_Y"WdZYeea\eh'c_dkj[$H[cel[ HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE
\hecj^[^[Wj"ij_h_dj^[X[bbf[ff[hiWdZfWhib[o"WdZ UBCMFTQPPOTSPBTUFE 
b[jYeeb\eh+c_dkj[i$J_f_djej^[X[Wj[d[]]i"ij_hh_d] QFFMFE BOEDIPQQFE
jei[fWhWj[j^[fejWjeib_Y[i"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZ SFECFMMQFQQFST GSPN
f[ff[h$Fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$ BKBSJT¹OF

 H[jkhd j^[ ia_bb[j je c  [Z_kc#bem ^[Wj" WZZ j^[ UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
Xkjj[h"WdZ^[Wjkdj_b\eWc_d]$Fekh_dj^[[]]c_njkh[ QBSTMFZ
WdZYeeakdZ_ijkhX[Z\eh)c_dkj[i$Jefm_j^j^[]eWj 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
Y^[[i["WdZib_Z[kdZ[hj^[Xhe_b[h\eh'je(c_dkj[i"eh HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
kdj_bj^[[]]iWh[`kiji[jedjef$ UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE
:ed¼j el[hYeea eh CVUUFS
j^[Y^[[i[X[Yec[i PVODFTTPGUXIJUFHPBU
jek]^$ =Whd_i^ m_j^ DIFFTF DVUJODIVOLT
XWi_b"_\ki_d]$ 5PSOVQCBTJMMFBWFT 
PQUJPOBM

N  4 FSWFT

RTT` N[Q PURR`R 39


]N_ZR`N[ ]bSS`

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS "-8":4  1 016 - " 3  8*5)  (6& 4 5 4  these


DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI savory puffs are crisp on the outside with a soft,
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU almost hollow interior. Based on gougère, a tradi-
DVQNJML tional Burgundian snack, this gluten-free version
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE makes an appetizing accompaniment to a glass of
CVUUFS DVUVQ wine, and the puffs are delicious served in lieu of
MBSHFFHHT bread with a salad. It’s easiest and quickest to
DVQHSBUFE form the puffs with a cone-shaped pastry bag, but
1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP you can also use two spoons.

 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j
m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$>Wl[h[WZoWZ[YehWj_d]XW]Äjj[Z
m_j^W'À(#_dY^fbW_dj_f$
 9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"WdZiWbj"WdZ
i[jWi_Z[$
 ?d W ^[Wlo iWkY[fWd" ^[Wj j^[ c_ba WdZ Xkjj[h el[h
N  . BLFT c[Z_kc ^[Wj `kij kdj_b Xe_b_d]$ 7ZZ j^[ Åekh c_njkh[
Wbb Wj edY[" WdZ ij_h l_]ehekibo kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ Yb[Whi
j^[i_Z[ie\j^[fWdWdZ\ehciWXWbb$A[[fij_hh_d]\eh
' c_dkj[" [lWfehWj_d] Wi ckY^ ce_ijkh[ Wi feii_Xb[
m_j^ekjiYehY^_d]j^[fWij[$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$7ZZ
j^[[]]ied[WjWj_c["X[Wj_d]^WhZW\j[h[WY^WZZ_j_ed
kdj_bj^[c_njkh[_iiceej^W]W_d$8[Wj_dj^[FWhc[iWd$
 JhWdi\[h j^[ c_njkh[ je j^[ Z[YehWj_d] XW] WdZ f_f[
''À*#_dY^cekdZiedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j$FbWY[_dj^[el[d
WdZjkhdj^[^[WjZemdje)-+–<$8Wa[kdj_bfk\\[ZWdZ

*& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


]ebZ[d" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ Jkhd e\\ j^[ ^[Wj" WdZ b[Wl[
j^[fk\\i_dj^[el[d\ehWdej^[h+je'&c_dkj[i"m_j^j^[
ZeehfWhj_Wbboef[d$M[Z][m_j^WmeeZ[difeed^WdZb[
_\d[Y[iiWho$I[hl[mWhc$8Wa[Zfk\\icWoX[\hep[d$

2OEJC=-=OPNU !A?KN=PEJC=C

<_njkh[i _d Wdo fhe\[ii_edWb a_jY^[d \eh \ehc_d] Y^ekn


fk\\i"ƒYbW_hi"WdZej^[hicWbbfWijh_[i"fWijhoXW]iYWdX[
\ekdZ_dWdoa_jY^[dmWh[i^ef"Wbed]m_j^c[jWbj_fi$Je
ÄbbWfWijhoXW]"_di[hjj^[j_f"j^[dijWdZj^[XW]_dWjWbb
`Wh$<ebZXWYaj^[jefb_a[WYk\\"m^_Y^oekkd\ebZm^[d
j^[XW]_i^Wb\\kbbieoekYWdjm_ijj^[XW]i^kjm_j^ekj
j^[Äbb_d][iYWf_d]\hecj^[mhed][dZ$9^[\iki[j^[
bWh]["l_hjkWbbo_dZ[ijhkYj_Xb[YWdlWia_dZWieffei[Zje
j^[icWbb"Z_ifeiWXb[lWh_[jo$9^eei[WYWdlWiXW]"jkhd
_j _di_Z[ ekj" WdZ mWi^ kdZ[h mWhc hkdd_d] mWj[h Wi
ieedWifeii_Xb[W\j[h\ehc_d]Y^eknZek]^eh_jm_bbX[
j_h[iec[jeYb[Wd$

RTT` N[Q PURR`R 41


\[V\[ T _ bf{_R aN_ a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU # " ,*/(  5)*4  4 "703:  5" 3 5  on a pre-


4IFMM QBHFNBEF heated baking sheet not only gets the pastry off to
XJUIPVUTVHBS
IBMG a good start, but catches any errant spills. Serve
CBLFE warm as a first course. Be patient when cooking
UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE the onions: they have to simmer until they practi-
CVUUFS cally melt, but the wait is worth it.
POJPOT BCPVU
PVODFTFBDI
IBMWFE
BOEUIJOMZTMJDFE  M^_b[ j^[ ^Wb\#XWa[Z jWhj i^[bb Yeebi" fh[fWh[ j^[
1JODIPGOVUNFH  Äbb_d]$
QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ  C[bjj^[Xkjj[h_dW^[WloiWkY[fWdel[hc[Z_kc#bem
HSBUFE ^[Wj$7ZZj^[ed_edi"Yel[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZ
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ Yeea"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bfWb[]ebZWdZc[bj_d]bo
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS j[dZ[h"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^dkjc[]"
MBSHFFHHZPMLT iWbj"WdZf[ff[h$
DVQIFBWZDSFBN

DVQ PVODFT
HSBUFE

(SVZoSFDIFFTF
PJMDVSFECMBDLPMJWFT 
QJUUFEBOEIBMWFE

N  4 FSWFTUP

*( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<"WdZ^[WjWXWa_d]i^[[jWj
j^[iWc[j_c[$
 M^_iaj^[[]]oebaiWdZYh[Wcje][j^[h"WdZij_h_d
j^[ed_edi$Ifh[WZ^Wb\j^[]hWj[ZY^[[i[el[hj^[fWijho
i^[bb"ifeedj^[ed_edc_njkh[el[h_j"WdZifh_dab[m_j^
j^[h[cW_d_d]Y^[[i[$7hhWd][j^[eb_l[iWjhWdZeced
jef$FbWY[j^[jWhjfWdedj^[^ejXWa_d]i^[[j$8Wa[kdj_b
ZWffb[Z]ebZWdZj^[Äbb_d]_i`kiji[j"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$
B[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]WdZib_Y_d]$

0PKNEJC#ENI DAAOAO

9^[[i[i ikY^ Wi 9^[ZZWh" =hko„h[" WdZ FWhc[iWd m_bb


a[[f X[jj[h _\ mhWff[Z _d fWhY^c[dj fWf[h" fkj _d W
fbWij_YXW]j^Wj¼ib[\jib_]^jboef[d"WdZh[\h_][hWj[Z$J^_i
mWo"j^[o][j_cfehjWdjW_hY_hYkbWj_ed"XkjdejieckY^
j^Wjj^[ogk_YaboZhoekj$M^[dmhWff[Z_dfbWij_YWbed["
Y^[[i[ieedZ[l[beficebZ$7ie\j"\kbboh_f[d[ZY^[[i["
ikY^Wi8h_[eh9Wc[cX[hj"med¼ja[[fdecWjj[hm^Wj
oekZeje_j"ieXkoedbom^WjoekYWdki[m_j^_dWZWo
ehjme$

RTT` N[Q PURR`R 43


`]V[NPU N[Q gbPPUV[V S _VaaNaN

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB :0 6  $ " /  &/+0:  5)*4  vegetarian frittata


WJSHJOPMJWFPJM hot, warm, or cold for lunch or supper, or as an
DVQ¹OFMZDIPQQFE appetizer with a glass of wine. It’s also perfect for
POJPO a potluck party: it travels well. You’ll need left-
DVQT PVODFT
MPPTF over potatoes to make this dish—boiled or baked
QBDLGSP[FOTQJOBDI work equally well—or you can stir in pecans for a
MBSHFFHHT crunchy contrast. Almost any cheese, including
DVQTTISFEEFE Cheddar or crumbled feta, works well.
"TJBHP 1FDPSJOP 
QSPWPMPOF PS(SVZoSF
DIFFTF PSBNJYUVSF  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$=h[Wi[Wd.s'&s(#_dY^
DVQHSBUFE XWa_d]Z_i^m_j^(j[Wifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b$
1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP  >[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d]eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc
DVQUIJOMZTMJDFE ^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[ed_ed$9eeakdj_bjhWdibkY[dj"ij_hh_d]"
[VDDIJOJ WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ if_dWY^ WdZ Yeea" ij_hh_d]
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ e\j[d"kdj_bj^Wm[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$I[jWi_Z[$
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS  ?d W bWh][ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo$ Ij_h _d j^[
DVQDPPLFE TMJDFE DPME i^h[ZZ[ZY^[[i[WdZWbbXkj'jWXb[ifeede\j^[FWhc[iWd$
QPUBUPFT QFFMFE PS =[djboij_h_dj^[pkYY^_d_$I[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h
DVQQFDBOT DIPQQFE h[c[cX[h" j^[ Y^[[i[i YedjW_d iWbj$ Ifeed ^Wb\ j^[
c_njkh[ _dje j^[ XWa_d] Z_i^" WdZ jef m_j^ j^[ fejWje
N  4 FSWFT ib_Y[i$ 9el[h m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d] if_dWY^ c_njkh[" WdZ
iceej^j^[jef$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeed
e\FWhc[iWd$8Wa[kdj_bWZWffb[Z]ebZ[dXhemdedjef"
)+ je *& c_dkj[i$ J^[ j[njkh[ m_bb X[ Ähc hWj^[h j^Wd
iek\Ńb_a[$B[jYeeb\ehWjb[Wij'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[Ykjj_d]
WdZi[hl_d]$

** j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
`b[ Q _VRQ a\ZNa\ N[Q
]N_ZR`N[ `\bSSYz

4 0 6 ''- c 4  1 3 0 # " # -:  & " 3 / &%  5 ) &* 3 UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE


reputation for being difficult to make before the CVUUFS TPGUFOFE
days of electric mixers and ovens with thermo- UBCMFTQPPOTHSBUFE
stats. Actually they are very easy to produce; 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP
the only caveat is that diners must wait for the UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO
soufflé, not the other way round, as it does fall SJDFºPVS
quickly. This version uses rice flour in the basic DVQXIPMFNJML IFBUFE
mixture. VOUJMUJOZCVCCMFTGPSN
BSPVOEUIFFEHFPGUIF
QBO
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+–<$ =h[Wi[ W '#gkWhj iek\Ń DVQDPBSTFMZHSBUFE
Z_i^ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed e\ j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ Zkij m_j^ ( (SVZoSF
jWXb[ifeedie\j^[FWhc[iWd$ MBSHFFHHT TFQBSBUFE
 C[bj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h _d W ^[Wlo UBCMFTQPPOTESBJOFE
iWkY[fWd$Ij_h_dj^[h_Y[ÅekhjecWa[Wiceej^fWij[$ BOEDIPQQFETVO
?cc[Z_Wj[bo WZZ j^[ ^ej c_ba WdZ ij_h l_]ehekibo kdj_b ESJFEUPNBUPFTJOPJM
j^[c_njkh[Xe_bi$H[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZi_cc[h" 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
ij_hh_d] YedijWdjbo" kdj_b iceej^ WdZ j^_Ya" WXekj ) HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS
c_dkj[i$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZX[Wj_dj^[=hko„h[
WdZ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi FWhc[iWd$ 8[Wj _d j^[ N  4 FSWFT
[]]oebai"ed[WjWj_c[$Ij_h_dj^[Y^eff[Zikd#Zh_[Z
jecWje[i$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$
 8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bij_\\XkjdejZho$Ij_hed[bWh][
ifeed\kb_djej^[Y^[[i[c_njkh["jebeei[d_j$Ki_d]W
hkXX[hifWjkbW"\ebZ_dj^[h[cW_d_d][]]m^_j[i"ki_d]
WYkjj_d]#ZemdWdZiYeef_d]#kfcej_edm^_b[hejWj_d]
j^[Xembm_j^oekhej^[h^WdZ$JhWdi\[hjej^[fh[fWh[Z

RTT` N[Q PURR`R 45


iek\Ń Z_i^$ Ki_d] j^[ ifWjkbW" Ykj W Y_hYkbWh jh[dY^
j^hek]^ j^[ c_njkh[ WXekj ( _dY^[i \hec j^[ i_Z[i e\
j^[Z_i^"m^_Y^^[bfij^[iek\Ńjeh_i[[l[dboWdZ\ehc
W ¹^Wj$º 8Wa[ kdj_b fk\\[Z WdZ ]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (+
c_dkj[i$I[hl[_cc[Z_Wj[bo$

*, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
 l[][jWXb[i
WdZ ]hW_di
" --  7&(& 5" #-& 4  " /%  1 6- 4& 4—from asparagus to zucchini—are
gluten-free, but grains are another matter. For the gluten-sensitive, wheat,
barley, and rye must be avoided like the Titanic with another chance. Still,
other interesting choices vie for the cook’s attention, and the wider the selection
of vegetables and whole grains you use, the better for everybody’s general
health. Dried beans, lentils, corn, and rice are familiar staples, but quinoa and
millet can make fans out of the most suspicious diner when offered as a pilaf or
grain salad.

*-
P\_ [ S _VaaR_`

64& '3&4) 03 '30;&/ corn kernels for MBSHFFHHT


these crispy, Asian-style fritters, which make a sa- HSFFOPOJPOT XIJUF
vory appetizer or a light lunch with salad greens. BOEQBMFHSFFOQBSU
Some brands of tamari sauce are wheat-free, as is POMZ UIJOMZTMJDFE
Thai fish sauce, but check the labels to make sure. UBCMFTQPPOTSPBTUFE 
QFFMFE BOEDIPQQFE
SFECFMMQFQQFST
 8h[Wa j^[ []]i _dje W Xemb" WdZ X[Wj b_]^jbo$ 7ZZ j^[ GSPNBKBSJT¹OF

]h[[d ed_edi" X[bb f[ff[hi" f[ff[h ÅWa[i" jWcWh_ iWkY[" UPUFBTQPPOESJFE

Äi^iWkY["iWbj"f[ff[h"WdZYehd$Ij_h_dj^[h_Y[Åekh$ SFEQFQQFSºBLFT
 >[Wjj^[Yehde_b_dWbWh][dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc UBCMFTQPPOXIFBUGSFF
^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$:hef_d^[Wf[ZjWXb[ifeedie\ UBNBSJTBVDF TVDIBT
j^[ XWjj[h" WdZ \ho kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd ed Xej^ i_Z[i" 0SHBOJD4BO+5BNBSJ
WXekj)c_dkj[i$FkjedfWf[hjem[bijeZhW_d"WdZa[[f UFBTQPPOT5IBJ¹TI
mWhcm^_b[Yeea_d]j^[h[cW_d_d]XWjj[h$Ifh_dab[m_j^ TBVDF
i[iWc[e_bWdZ]Whd_i^m_j^Y_bWdjhe$ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
DVQTDPSOLFSOFMT 
UIBXFEJGGSP[FO
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

UBCMFTQPPOTDPSOPJM
5PBTUFETFTBNFPJM
$JMBOUSPTQSJHT

N  .BLFT

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 49


gbPPUV[V S _VaaR_`

DVQHSBUFE"TJBHPPS 5)*4  *4  "  5" 4 5 :  appetizer or side dish that


1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP cooks in 5 minutes. Long, slender purple or laven-
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS der Japanese eggplants can be substituted; like
MBSHFFHH zucchini, their skins are so tender that they don’t
UFBTQPPODIPQQFE need peeling. Either one makes first-rate finger
GSFTIPSFHBOPPS food with a glass of wine.
UIZNF PSUFBTQPPO
ESJFE PQUJPOBM
UPNFEJVN[VDDIJOJ   9ecX_d[j^[Y^[[i[WdZh_Y[Åekh$8h[Waj^[[]]_dje
TMJDFEJODIUIJDL Wm_Z["i^WbbemZ_i^WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$7ZZj^[eh[]Wde"_\
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB ki_d]$7ZZj^[pkYY^_d_ib_Y[ijej^[X[Wj[d[]]"jkhd_d]
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM jeYeWjm[bb$
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ  >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ dedij_Ya ia_bb[j el[h
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS c[Z_kc ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ C[Wdm^_b[" fbWY[ j^[
pkYY^_d_ib_Y[iedj^[Y^[[i[#Åekhc_njkh["j^[djkhdje
YeWjj^[i[YedZi_Z[$<hokdj_bj[dZ[hWdZ]ebZ[dXhemd
edXej^i_Z[i"WXekj*c_dkj[i$?\Yeea_d]_dXWjY^[i"
N  4FSWFT fbWY[edWfbWj[b_d[Zm_j^fWf[hjem[biWdZa[[fmWhc
_dWbemel[d$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h"WdZ
i[hl[mWhc$

+& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


YR[aVY` dVaU PUVPX]RN`

6/- *, &  %3*&%  #& " /4  - &/ 5 *- 4  don’t DVQHSFFOMFOUJMT 

need soaking before you cook them. For my QJDLFEPWFSBOESJOTFE


money, green lentils have by far the best texture; NFEJVNPOJPO 
brown ones can be floury when cooked, and tiny DIPQQFE
red lentils turn to mush the moment your back is HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE
turned (they’re good in soup, though). As with DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ

cooked quinoa, any leftovers can be turned into UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

an excellent grain salad by adding a splash of DVQDPPLFEPSDBOOFE


wine vinegar and more olive oil. DIJDLQFBT SJOTFEBOE
ESBJOFE
DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF

 ?dWbWh][iWkY[fWd"YecX_d[j^[b[dj_bi"ed_ed"]Whb_Y" PJM QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS


fWhib[o"iWbj"WdZ*YkfimWj[h$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[ ESJ[[MJOH
^[Wj"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

 :hW_d" h[i[hl_d] j^[ b_gk_Z$ H[jkhd j^[ b[dj_bi je DVNJO
j^[iWkY[fWdm_j^ 'À(Ykfe\j^[Yeea_d]b_gk_Z$7ZZ 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
j^[Y^_Yaf[Wi"eb_l[e_b"Ykc_d"WdZXbWYaf[ff[hjejWij[$ QFQQFS
>[Wj][djbo"WdZjWij[\ehi[Wied_d]$I[hl[^ej"Zh_ppb[Z
m_j^WZZ_j_edWbeb_l[e_b$ N  4FSWFT

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 51


^bV[\N ]VYNS dVaU
_RQ ]R]]R_`

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF " 4  7&3 4 "5 *- &  " 4  8 )* 5 &  rice but much
WFHFUBCMFCSPUIPS higher in nutrients, quinoa cooks in just 15 min-
DIJDLFOCSPUI utes. It has a mellow flavor and a texture some-
DVQZFMMPXRVJOPB  what like caviar: there’s a pleasant little pop to it
SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE between your teeth. The seeds grow in a multitude
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB of colors, including white, yellow, pink, red, black,
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM and orange, but the two you’re most likely to find
DVQDIPQQFEPOJPO in the United States are light yellow and red.
DVQEFTUSJOHFEBOE

DIPQQFEDFMFSZ
HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE  8h_d] j^[ Xhej^ je W Xe_b el[h ^_]^ ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[
MBSHFSFECFMMQFQQFS  gk_deW"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_b
CSPJMFEBOEQFFMFE j^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hWdZj^[b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+
TFFQBHF
 c_dkj[i$J^[]hW_dim_bbjkhdjhWdifWh[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[
DIPQQFE ][hch_d]m_bbi^em$
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE  C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j el[h
QBSTMFZ c[Z_kc ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ Y[b[ho" WdZ iWkjƒ kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS j^[]Whb_YWdZX[bbf[ff[h"WdZYeea\eh(c_dkj[iceh[$
Ij_h_dj^[gk_deWWdZfWhib[o"WdZi[WiedjejWij[m_j^
N  4FSWFT iWbjWdZf[ff[h$

+( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
NKEHEJC=J@-AAHEJCAHH-ALLANO

J^[ fWf[ho ia_d ed h[Z WdZ o[bbem X[bb f[ff[hi _i j^[
fWhjj^Wjfhecej[i_dZ_][ij_ed"ie_j^Wije]e$Fh[^[Wj
j^[ Xhe_b[h" WdZ b_d[ W i^Wbbem fWd m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$
Befj^[jefWdZXejjece\\[WY^f[ff[hWdZib_Y[_dje
gkWhj[hi" Ykjj_d] j^hek]^ j^[ Å[i^ edbo$ :_iYWhZ j^[
i[[Zo Yeh[" WdZ jh_c e\\ Wdo m^_j[ _dd[h h_Xi$ Oek dem
^Wl[ * ÅWj f_[Y[i f[h f[ff[h$ 8he_b" ia_d i_Z[ kf" kdj_b
j^[ ia_d XbWYa[di WdZ Xb_ij[hi" + je - c_dkj[i$ O[bbem
f[ff[hi jWa[ b[ii j_c[ j^Wd h[Z ed[i$ 9el[h m_j^ \e_b
WdZ b[j ij[Wc \eh '& c_dkj[i$ Fkbb e\\ j^[ fWf[ho ia_d"
m^_Y^Yec[ie\\[Wi_bom^[doekZed¼j^Wl[jeYedj[dZ
m_j^Ykhl[Z[dZi$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 53


^bV[\N' aUR V[PN `b]R_T_NV[

Ed[ e\ j^[ ^_]^[ij iekhY[i e\ fhej[_d _d j^[ l[][jWXb[ a_d]Zec" gk_deW fhedekdY[Z
a[[d#mW^^WiX[[dYkbj_lWj[Z_dj^[7dZ[WdcekdjW_di\ehWjb[Wij\_l[j^ekiWdZo[Whi$
H[l[h[djbo ademd Wi j^[ ¹cej^[h ]hW_dº je j^[ ?dYW" 7pj[Y" WdZ ej^[h fh[#9ebkcX_Wd
f[efb[i" \eh m^ec _j ^WZ ]h[Wj h[b_]_eki i_]d_\_YWdY[" _j¼i iW_Z j^Wj j_h[b[ii ?dYW h[bWo
hkdd[hi¸m^e a[fj b_d[i e\ Yecckd_YWj_ed ef[d j^hek]^ekj j^[ lWij ?dYW [ cf_h[¸
em[Zj^[_hb[][dZWhoijWc_dWjegk_deW$?ji[[cih[WiedWXb[jeikffei[j^Wjj^_i]hW_d
mekbZX[`kijWiki[\kb\ehj^[h[ije\ki"[l[d_\m[Zed¼j^Wl[jehkdkfWdZZemdj^[
idem#YWff[Z7dZ[i$
7bj^ek]^jh[Wj[ZWiW]hW_d"]bkj[d#\h[[gk_deW_iWYjkWbboj^[\hk_je\W^WhZofbWdjX[bed]_d]
je j^[ iWc[ \Wc_bo Wi X[[ji" Y^WhZ" WdZ if_dWY^" m^_Y^ YWd Åekh_i^ Wj ^_]^ Wbj_jkZ[i$
9^[defeZ_kcgk_deWfheZkY[i^k][gkWdj_j_[ie\j_doXkj^_]^bodkjh_j_ekihekdZi[[Zi_d
bWh]["ieh]^kcb_a[Ybkij[hi$M^[dYeea[Z"j^[]hW_diim[bbWdZjkhdjhWdibkY[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[
dkjh_[djh_d]i^emiYb[Whbo$>_]^_dc_d[hWbi"gk_deWikffb_[iWbbj^[[ii[dj_WbWc_deWY_Zi"
cWa_d]_jWYecfb[j[fhej[_d$?j^WiWc[bbem"ib_]^jbodkjjoÅWleh"YWdX[ki[Zb_a[m^_j[h_Y["
WdZYeeai_dedbo'+c_dkj[i$
?dWZZ_j_edjeX[_d]WlW_bWXb[m^eb["eh]Wd_YWbbo]hemd7c[h_YWdgk_deWYWdX[\ekdZ_d
ÅWa[i"b_a[hebb[ZeWji1WiÅekh1WdZWifWijW$J^[ÅWa[iWh[ekjijWdZ_d]_dck[ib_fW][
(+WdZcWa[Wd[nY[bb[djX_dZ[h\ehc[WjbeW\ehijk\Äd]i$J^[Åekh_iki[\kb\ehcWa_d]
Xh[WZiWdZck\Ädi$7lW_bWXb[_ddWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[i"XocW_behZ[h"WdZ"_dYh[Wi_d]bo"_d
ikf[hcWha[ji" j^[h[ _i `kij ed[ YWl[Wj0 m^eb[#]hW_d gk_deW ckij X[ m[bb h_di[Z X[\eh[
Yeea_d]jeh[cel[j^[dWjkhWbboeYYkhh_d]"X_jj[h#jWij_d]iWfed_dij^Wj\ehcedj^[ikh\WY[
jeh[f[b_di[Yji$

+* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
^bV[\N `NYNQ dVaU PbPbZOR_
a\ZNa\ N[Q ZV[a

#6-(63  8 )& "5  8 )*-&  5 )&  traditional DVQTHMVUFOGSFF


grain for tabbouleh, is off-limits to those who can’t WFHFUBCMFCSPUI
eat wheat. Quinoa is the perfect substitute for DVQSFEPSZFMMPX
bulgur. This “tabbouleh” keeps for two or three RVJOPB SJOTFEBOE
days refrigerated, and the grains do not harden ESBJOFE
when chilled. To make a complete summer meal, DVDVNCFS BCPVU
add cooked shrimp. PVODFT
QFFMFE 
TFFEFE BOEDIPQQFE
MBSHF SJQFUPNBUPFT 
 8h_d] j^[ Xhej^ je W Xe_b el[h ^_]^ ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ¹OFMZDIPQQFE 
gk_deW"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_b QSFGFSBCMZIFJSMPPN
j^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hWdZj^[b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+ HSFFOPOJPOT UIJOMZ
c_dkj[i$J^[]hW_dim_bbjkhdjhWdifWh[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[ TMJDFE
][hc h_d] m_bb i^em$ JhWdi\[h je W bWh][ Xemb WdZ b[j SBEJTIFT ¹OFMZ
Yeeb$ DIPQQFE
 7ZZj^[YkYkcX[h"jecWje[i"]h[[ded_edi"hWZ_i^[i" DVQDIPQQFENJOU

c_dj"WdZfWhib[o$M^_iaje][j^[hj^[eb_l[e_bWdZl_d[]Wh" DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ

WdZi[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$Fekhel[hj^[ DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF

gk_deW WdZ l[][jWXb[i" WdZ c_n ][djbo Xkj j^ehek]^bo$ PJM


JWij[\ehi[Wied_d]WdZWZ`kijWid[[Z[Z$I[hl[Wjheec UBCMFTQPPOTXJOF
j[cf[hWjkh[$ WJOFHBS
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS

N  4FSWFTUP

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 55


ZVY YRa Zb`U_\\Z
N[Q ONP\[ _V`\aa\

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB 5)&  " /$*&/ 5  30. " /4  $0 0,&%  millet


WJSHJOPMJWFPJM long before the arrival of corn or rice. Nutritious,
POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE quick-cooking, and gluten-free, it has a nutty,
DFMFSZSJC EFTUSJOHFE gentle flavor and a texture much like that of rice
BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE when cooked. Millet can be found in natural
QPVOEXIJUFPSCSPXO foods stores.
NVTISPPNT TMJDFE
DVQNJMMFU
DVQTHMVUFOGSFFCFFG  >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj kdj_b
CSPUI _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho" WdZ Yeea
TUSJQTMFBOCBDPO  kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Xhemd[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[
DPPLFEVOUJMDSJTQBOE cki^heeci" WdZ Yeea kdj_b j^[o bei[ j^[_h hWm beea" (
DSVNCMFE c_dkj[iceh[$Ij_h_dj^[c_bb[j"YeWj_d]j^[]hW_dim[bb$
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE 7ZZj^[X[[\Xhej^$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"
QBSTMFZ Yel[hj^[fWd"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hXkj
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ dejcki^o"'+je(&c_dkj[i$
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS  Ij_hj^[XWYedWdZfWhib[o_djej^[c_bb[j"WdZjWij[
\ehi[Wied_d]"WZZ_d]
N  4 FSWFTBTBNBJODPVSTF iWbj WdZ f[ff[h Wi
BTBTJEFEJTI d[[Z[Z$

+, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
ZVY YRa ]VYNS dVaU Pb__N[a`
N[Q UNgRY[ba`

3& 7&3&%  " 4  0/&  0'  the Five Sacred DVQDIPQQFE

Grains in ancient China, millet is a mellow-tasting, IB[FMOVUT


healthful whole grain that’s almost unknown in UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
the United States except as birdseed. It can be CVUUFS
used just like rice as a side dish, and makes an POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE
excellent addition to hearty soups. DVQNJMMFU
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
 JeWij j^[ ^Wp[bdkji b_]^jbo _d W Zho ia_bb[j" WdZ i[j QFQQFS
Wi_Z[$  DVQTHMVUFOGSFF


 >[Wjj^[Xkjj[h_dj^[iWc[ia_bb[j"WZZj^[ed_ed"WdZ DIJDLFOCSPUI


Yeeakdj_bjhWdibkY[djWdZijWhj_d]jejkhdYebeh"WXekj- DVQESJFE;BOUF

c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[c_bb[j"ij_hh_d]jeYeWjj^[]hW_dim[bb$ DVSSBOUT
I[Wiedm_j^'À(j[WifeediWbjWdZW][d[heki]h_dZ_d]e\ UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
XbWYaf[ff[h$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^" )À*YkfmWj[h"WdZ QBSTMFZ
j^[ YkhhWdji$ 8h_d] je W Xe_b" Yel[h" h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je
bem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"'+je(&c_dkj[i$<bk\\m_j^
W\eha"WdZij_h_dj^[^Wp[bdkjiWdZfWhib[o$ N  4FSWFTUP

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 57


_V`\aa\ dVaU `PNY Y\]`

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF 0/&  0'  5)&  (-03*& 4  of northern Italian


DIJDLFOCSPUI cuisine, risotto is really best made at home, not in
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB a restaurant. It takes only about 25 minutes to
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM cook, a soothing ritual that involves slowly add-
QPVOECBZTDBMMPQT ing broth to simmering Arborio rice, preferably
JGVTJOHMBSHFTFB sipping the same wine—maybe a Pinot Grigio
TDBMMPQT DVUJO delle Venezie—that goes into the dish. Round-grain
RVBSUFST
Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano rice is a
'JOFTFBTBMU must, as these highly similar varieties absorb
UBCMFTQPPOT  broth without losing their shape and turn beauti-
TUJDL
VOTBMUFECVUUFS  fully creamy. Long-grain white rice, which has a
TPGUFOFE different starch content, would fall apart if cooked
POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE this way.
HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE
1JODIPGESJFESFE
QFQQFSºBLFT  8b[dZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_j^(YkfimWj[hWdZXh_d]je
DVQT"SCPSJPSJDF Wi_cc[h"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjel[hobemie_jZe[id¼j
DVQESZXIJUFXJOF [lWfehWj[$
DVQQFFMFE TFFEFE   >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWbWh]["^[Wlo#Xejjec[ZiWkY[fWd
BOEDIPQQFESJQF el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ iYWbbefi$ IWkjƒ kdj_b j^[
UPNBUP iYWbbefi X[Yec[ efWgk[" ( c_dkj[i$ Ki_d] W ibejj[Z
DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ ifeed"jhWdi\[hj^[cjeWfbWj[WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^
iWbj"h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Xhej^cWoX[iWbj[Z$
N  4FSWFTUP  7ZZ*jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hjej^[fWd$M^[d^ej
WdZ XkXXb_d]" WZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Yeea el[h c[Z_kc#
bem ^[Wj kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ ]Whb_Y WdZ
h[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZYeea\eh)&i[YedZi$Ij_h_dj^[

+. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
h_Y[ m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed$ 7ZZ j^[ m_d[" WdZ m^[d _j
^Wi[lWfehWj[Z"ij_h_dj^[jecWjeWdZ'À(Ykfe\j^[^ej
Xhej^$7ZZ_d]Xhej^Xoj^[ 'À*Ykf\kbWij^[h_Y[WXiehXi
j^[ fh[l_eki XWjY^" Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] kdj_b j^[ h_Y[ _i
Yh[WcoXkjij_bbib_]^jboÄhcjej^[X_j["WXekj(+c_dkj[i$
?\j^[Xhej^][jiki[ZkfX[\eh[j^[h_Y[_ih[WZo"WZZ
^ej mWj[h$ J^[ h_Y[ i^ekbZ dej X[ Wbbem[Z je X[Yec[
ZhoZkh_d]Yeea_d]"Xkj_ji^ekbZdejX[WmWi^_db_gk_Z"
[_j^[h$J^[Äd_i^[ZZ_i^i^ekbZbeeaib_]^jboiekfo$
 JWij[#j[ij \h[gk[djbo0 m^[d _j _i h[WZo" W h_Y[ ]hW_d
i^ekbZ`kijh[i_ijj^[X_j[WdZdeceh[$@kijX[\eh[_j¼i
Zed[" ij_h j^[ iYWbbefi WdZ fWhib[o _dje j^[ h_Y[" WdZ
^[Wj \eh ' c_dkj[$ JWij[ \eh i[Wied_d]" WdZ ij_h _d j^[
h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediXkjj[h$I[hl[_dmWhc[ZfbWj[i"
ki_d]m_Z[#h_cc[ZiekffbWj[i"_\WlW_bWXb[$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 59


_V`\aa\ dVaU
PUVPXR[ YVcR_`

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF */& 9 1&/4*7&  $)*$,&/  -*7&3 4  - &/%


DIJDLFOCSPUI richness to this flavorful risotto. To prevent the
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
 portobello mushrooms from staining the rice
VOTBMUFECVUUFS brown, remove the dark brown gills under the
POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE caps.
DVQT"SCPSJPSJDF
'JOFTFBTBMU
DVQESZXIJUFXJOF  8b[dZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_j^(YkfimWj[hWdZXh_d]je
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB Wi_cc[h"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjel[hobemie_jZe[id¼j
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM [lWfehWj[$
PVODFTQBODFUUB EJDFE  C[bjj^[Xkjj[h_dWbWh]["^[Wlo#Xejjec[ZiWkY[fWd
QPSUPCFMMP el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZ^Wb\j^[Y^eff[Zed_ed"WdZ
NVTISPPNT BCPVU Yeea kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" WdZ ij_h
PVODFTFBDI TUFN m_j^WmeeZ[difeedkdj_b_jijWhjijejkhdjhWdibkY[dj"
BOECSPXOVOEFSTJEF (c_dkj[i$I[Wiedm_j^iWbj_\j^[Xhej^_ikdiWbj[Z$7ZZ
SFNPWFE DVUJO j^[ m_d[" WdZ b[j _j [lWfehWj[$ Ij_h _d j^[ ^ej Y^_Ya[d
JODIEJDF Xhej^" 'À*YkfWjWj_c["WdZYedj_dk[Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[
QPVOEDIJDLFOMJWFST  h_Y[_iYh[WcoXkjij_bbib_]^jboÄhcjej^[X_j["WXekj(+
QSFGFSBCMZGSFFSBOHF  c_dkj[i$ ?\ j^[ Xhej^ ][ji ki[Z kf X[\eh[ j^[ h_Y[ _i
USJNNFEBOEDVUJO h[WZo"WZZ^ejmWj[h$J^[h_Y[i^ekbZdejX[Wbbem[Zje
JODIEJDF ][j Zho Zkh_d] Yeea_d]" Xkj _j i^ekbZ dej X[ WmWi^ _d
'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL b_gk_Z"[_j^[h$
QFQQFS  <_\j[[d c_dkj[i X[\eh[ j^[
DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ h_Y[_iZed["^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_d
WbWh][ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$
N  4FSWFTUP 7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] Y^eff[Z
ed_ed WdZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" WdZ

,& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


iWkjƒ kdj_b j^[ ed_ed _i ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[
cki^heeci"WdZiWkjƒkdj_bj^[cki^heeciWh[Yeea[Z
j^hek]^ WdZ beea ]bWiio" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ Fki^ j^[
ed_ed#cki^heecc_njkh[jej^[[Z][ie\j^[fWd"WdZ
WZZ j^[ Y^_Ya[d b_l[hi$ IWkjƒ kdj_b `kij Zed[ Xkj ij_bb
ib_]^jbof_da_di_Z["'je(c_dkj[i$:edejel[hYeea$
I[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ C_n m_j^ j^[ ed_edi WdZ
cki^heeci" WdZ h[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^
j^[fWhib[o$=[djbo\ebZj^[Y^_Ya[d#b_l[hc_njkh[_djej^[
h_Y[" WdZ i[hl[ ed mWhc[Z fbWj[i" ki_d] m_Z[#h_cc[Z
iekffbWj[i"_\WlW_bWXb[$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 61


T_N]R YRNS _\YY` dVaU _VPR
Pb__N[a` N[Q ]V[R [ba`

HSBQFMFBWFT  "  5&/%&3  '- "703'6-  46313*4& 


QSFTFSWFEJOCSJOF homemade stuffed grape vine leaves are nothing
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB like the stodgy canned variety. A quart jar of
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM grape leaves contains two rolled-up wads of about
NFEJVNPOJPO ¹OFMZ 40 leaves each; freeze one wad, enclosed in plastic
DIPQQFE wrap, to use another day.
DVQMPOHHSBJOXIJUF

SJDF
UFBTQPPOHSPVOE  I[fWhWj[j^[]hWf[b[Wl[i][djbo"h_di[m[bb"WdZXbWdY^
DJOOBNPO _dXe_b_d]mWj[h\eh)c_dkj[ijeie\j[d$Fbkd][_djeYebZ
'JOFTFBTBMU mWj[h"WdZZhW_dW]W_d$BWo(.je)&f[h\[Yjb[Wl[iedW
UBCMFTQPPODIPQQFE mehaikh\WY["i^_doi_Z[Zemd"h[i[hl_d]Wdo[njhW#bWh]["
NJOU [njhW#icWbb"ehjehded[i$D_fe\\j^[ij[ci$
UBCMFTQPPOTQJOFOVUT  ?d W ^[Wlo '&'À(#_dY^ iWkjƒ fWd m_j^ W b_Z" ^[Wj
UBCMFTQPPOTESJFE (jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j
;BOUFDVSSBOUT i^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZiWkjƒkdj_b]ebZ[d"WXekj
'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL -c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h_Y[WdZY_ddWced"WdZjkhdjeYeWj
QFQQFS m[bb$7ZZ'À(j[WifeediWbjWdZ'YkfmWj[h"WdZXh_d]je
+VJDFPGMFNPO WXe_b$9el[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wj"
-FNPOXFEHFT WdZ i_cc[h \eh + c_dkj[i$
1MBJOXIPMFNJMLZPHVSU Jkhde\\j^[^[Wj"WdZb[jijWdZ
kdj_bj^[h_Y[_ifbkcf[Zkf"
N  . BLFTBCPVU  WXekj'+c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[
TFSWFTUP c_dj" f_d[ dkji" YkhhWdji"
WdZ W ][d[heki ]h_dZ_d]
e\ XbWYa f[ff[h$ JWij[ \eh
i[Wied_d]" WdZ WZZ iWbj _\

,( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
d[[Z[Z$JhWdi\[hj^[h_Y[jeWXemb"h[cel_d][l[hobWij
]hW_d\hecj^[fWd$9el[hj^[Xejjece\j^[fWdm_j^W
bWo[h e\ h[i[hl[Z b[Wl[i" WdZ Zh_ppb[ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed
eb_l[e_b$
 Je cWa[ j^[ hebbi" Y[dj[h W jWXb[ifeed e\ Äbb_d] ed
[WY^b[W\"\ebZj^[i_Z[ijemWhZj^[Y[dj[h"WdZhebbkfje
cWa[WÄhcXkdZb[$FbWY["i[Wci_Z[Zemd"_dj^[iWkjƒ
fWd" Ybei[ je][j^[h" _d W i_d]b[ bWo[h$ :h_ppb[ m_j^ j^[
h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedieb_l[e_bWdZYel[hm_j^WbWo[h
e\ b[Wl[i$ 7ZZ j^[ b[ced `k_Y[ WdZ `kij [dek]^ mWj[h
jeYel[h$M[_]^Zemdm_j^W^[Wlo"^[Wjfhee\fbWj["WdZ
Yel[hj^[fWdj_]^jbo$9eeael[h^_]^^[Wj\eh+c_dkj[i"
j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZi_cc[h\eh*+c_dkj[i$
B[j Yeeb _d j^[ Yeea_d] b_gk_Z" ceij e\ m^_Y^ m_bb ^Wl[
[lWfehWj[Z$ H[cel[ j^[ hebbi YWh[\kbbo m_j^ W ibejj[Z
ifWjkbW$I[hl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh["m_j^b[cedm[Z][i
\ehigk[[p_d]edjefWdZoe]khj\ehZ_ff_d]$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 63


_VPR ]VYNS dVaU SR[[RY

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB 5)*4 "11&5*;*/(  #65 5&3: $0.#*/"


WJSHJOPMJWFPJM 5*0/ works as a vegetarian main course, an ap-
POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE petizer, or a side dish that’s especially good with
GFOOFMCVMCT PVODFT lamb.
FBDI USJNNFE 
RVBSUFSFE BOETMJDFE 
HSFFOGSPOETSFTFSWFE  >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj _d W ^[Wlo
BOEDIPQQFEUPNBLF iWkY[fWd$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZWdZ
UBCMFTQPPOT ijWhj_d]jejkhd]ebZ[d"+je,c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[\[dd[b
DVQTHMVUFOGSFF WdZ'À(Ykfe\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[Z"
DIJDLFOCSPUI IFBUFE '&c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h_Y[WdZZ_bb"ij_hh_d]m[bbjeYeWjj^[
DVQMPOHHSBJOXIJUF ]hW_di$
SJDF  7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]^ejY^_Ya[dijeYa$9el[h"h[ZkY[
DVQNJODFEGSFTIEJMM j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[h_Y[WdZ\[dd[bWh[
PSUFBTQPPOESJFE j[dZ[h"'.je(&c_dkj[i$
EJMM  <bk\\ j^[ h_Y[ m_j^ W \eha" WdZ Zh_ppb[ j^[ Xhemd[Z
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE Xkjj[hedjef$Jeii][djbojec_n$
CVUUFS NFMUFEBOE JWij["WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZ
MJHIUMZCSPXOFE f[ff[hWid[[Z[Z¸j^[Y^_Ya[d
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ Xhej^m_bbfheXWXboYedjW_diWbj$
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS Ifeed edje ^[Wj[Z fbWj[i" WdZ
-FNPOXFEHFT ]Whd_i^m_j^j^[Y^eff[Z\[dd[b
\hedZiWdZj^[b[cedm[Z][i$
N  4 FSWFTBTBNBJODPVSTF
BTBTJEFEJTI

,* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
]NRY YN YN ZN[PUN `afYR

5)*4  3&(*0/ " -  */- " /%  7" 3*& 5 :  of DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF

paella makes an intriguing change from the more PJM


familiar Barcelona version with chicken and sea- QPVOETNBMMSVTTFU
food. Be sure to use round-grain Spanish or Ital- QPUBUPFT QFFMFEBOE
ian rice here; long-grain white rice turns to mush. TMJDFEJODIUIJDL
The sliced tomatoes on top give it a finished look BOEQBUUFEESZPO
as well as a fresh taste, and the golden fried pota- QBQFSUPXFMT
toes, perhaps surprisingly, add great texture and QPVOEUIJDLMZTMJDFE

flavor. Old Spanish recipes start with about half a IBN EJDFE
pound of fresh lard; I use olive oil instead. An in- IFBEPGHBSMJD 
expensive, two-handled, 16-cup aluminum paella TFQBSBUFEJOUPDMPWFT 
pan about 14 inches across adds to the presenta- QFFMFEBOETMJDFE
tion (and makes a useful all-purpose roasting CFTURVBMJUZ HMVUFOGSFF
pan), but dividing the ingredients between two QPSLTBVTBHFT TMJDFE
large skillets also works. PVODFTJNQPSUFE
4QBOJTIDIPSJ[P
DVSFETBVTBHF
EJDFE
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*(+–<$>[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[  DVQT4QBOJTIQBFMMB

eb_l[e_b_dW'*#_dY^fW[bbWfWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wj SJDFPS"SCPSJPSJDF
kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[fejWje[i"WdZ\hokdj_b]ebZ[d DVQTHMVUFOGSFF
edXej^i_Z[i"WXekj'&c_dkj[i"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ DIJDLFOCSPUI IFBUFE
 7ZZ j^[ ^Wc" ]Whb_Y" iWkiW][i" WdZ Y^eh_pe je j^[ 1JODIPGTBGGSPOUISFBET 
fWd"WdZ\hokdj_bj^[iWkiW][ib_Y[iWh[b_]^jboYebeh[Z" TUFFQFEJODVQ
ij_hh_d] YedijWdjbo" + c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ h_Y[$ 7ZZ j^[ CPJMJOHXBUFS
Y^_Ya[d Xhej^" iW\\hed c_njkh[" jecWje[i" WdZ fejWje DVQQFFMFEBOEEJDFE
ib_Y[i$ I[Wied je jWij[ m_j^ W b_jjb[ iWbj" h[c[cX[h_d] UPNBUPFT ESBJOFE
j^Wj j^[ ^Wc WdZ Xhej^ m_bb YedjW_d iWbj$ 9el[h m_j^ DBOOFEBSF¹OF

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[` 65


'JOFTFBTBMU Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ XWa[ \eh (& je (+ c_dkj[i kdj_b
'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL j^[ h_Y[ _i j[dZ[h WdZ Wbceij Zho$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[
QFQQFSUPUBTUF h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j$ <ho
MBSHF SJQFUPNBUPFT  j^[ jecWje ib_Y[i ed Xej^ i_Z[i kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + je ,
UIJDLMZTMJDFE  c_dkj[i"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$M^[dj^[h_Y[
QSFGFSBCMZIFJSMPPN _i Yeea[Z" ]Whd_i^ j^[ ikh\WY[ m_j^ jecWje ib_Y[i WdZ
$IPQQFEQBSTMFZ Y^eff[ZfWhib[o"WdZi[hl[\hecj^[fWd$

N  4FSWFTUP

,, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
fWijW
*5"-*"/  1" 4 5"  )" 4  #&$0.&  "  '"703*5&  dish all over the world.
Fortunately for the gluten-intolerant, quite a few of the classic dried forms,
including spaghetti, fettuccine, spirals, shells, elbows, and lasagne, are now
made from brown rice flour, corn, or quinoa. They are all mellow in flavor and
cook in about the same length of time as wheat pasta. Different brands have
slightly different textures, so keep trying until you find a favorite; I like both
De Boles and Mrs. Leeper’s pasta. You can also make your own fresh egg
pasta from rice flour, which cooks in just 2 or 3 minutes. Traditional Asian rice
noodles and mung bean noodles, which are marvelous for absorbing flavorful
sauces, are gluten-free, cook in a flash, and can be found in many large
supermarkets.

,-
_VPR `]NTURaaV NYYN PN_O\[N_N

1" 4 5" $ "3#0/"3 " *4 53 "%*5*0/"--: UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF


served with a sauce of pancetta and raw eggs, which ºPVSTQBHIFUUJ
are cooked, more or less, by the heat of the pasta. I UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
don’t fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning, so I use DVQGSP[FOQFBT 

Eggbeaters instead. Made from 99 percent egg PQUJPOBM


whites, this product is sterilized and perfectly safe. UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
Again, it’s not traditional, but the food police won’t PMJWFPJM
take you away if you add a handful of frozen peas to PVODFTQBODFUUB EJDFE
the boiling pasta water. Their sweetness makes the DVQ&HHCFBUFSTPS

perfect foil for the pancetta and Parmesan. TJNJMBSMJRVJEFHH


TVCTUJUVUF BUSPPN
UFNQFSBUVSF
 8h_d] W fej e\ mWj[h je W Xe_b" WdZ WZZ j^[ iWbj WdZ 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
fWijW$9eeakdj_bWbZ[dj["WXekj'&c_dkj[i"WdZZhW_d$ QFQQFS
:_\\[h[djcWdk\WYjkh[hi¼fheZkYjiWdZ_dijhkYj_edilWho" DVQHSBUFE

ieY^[Ya\h[gk[djboXoX_j_d]_djeWijhWdZ$?\WZZ_d]f[Wi" 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP
ZeieWYekfb[e\c_dkj[iX[\eh[j^[fWijW_ih[WZo$
 C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W icWbb ia_bb[j el[h
c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" WdZ iWkjƒ kdj_b N  4FSWFT

b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z Xkj dej Yh_if" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ I[j


Wi_Z["ij_bb_dj^[ia_bb[j$I[Wiedj^[;]]X[Wj[him_j^XbWYa
f[ff[h"WdZij_h_dj^[FWhc[iWd$
 :hW_d j^[ fWijW" WdZ WZZ je j^[ ia_bb[j m_j^ j^[
fWdY[jjW$Fekhj^[;]]X[Wj[h#FWhc[iWdc_njkh[edjef"
WdZ jeii je Xb[dZ$ J^[ YecX_d[Z ^[Wj \hec j^[ ij_bb#
mWhcia_bb[jWdZj^[^ejfWijWm_bbYeea_jb_]^jbo$:_l_Z[
X[jm[[dmWhc[ZfbWj[i$

]N`aN 69
_VPR SRaabPPV[R dVaU N_ bTbYN
N[Q T\Na PURR`R

UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF 5 )*4  3&$*1&  *4  '" 4 5  savory, simple, and is


ºPVSGFUUVDDJOF easy to double. You can substitute coarsely
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ chopped spinach for the arugula if you like.
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
PMJWFPJM  8h_d] W fej e\ mWj[h je W Xe_b WdZ WZZ W j[Wifeed
UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE e\ iWbj WdZ j^[ fWijW$ 9eea kdj_b Wb Z[dj[" WXekj '&
CVUUFS c_dkj[i"WdZZhW_d$:_\\[h[djcWdk\WYjkh[hi¼fheZkYji
NFEJVNPOJPOT  WdZ_dijhkYj_edilWho"ieY^[Ya\h[gk[djboXoX_j_d]_dje
RVBSUFSFEBOEUIJOMZ WijhWdZ$
TMJDFE  C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b WdZ Xkjj[h _d W ia_bb[j
DVQT PVODFT
 el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ J^[ e_b a[[fi j^[ Xkjj[h \hec
BSVHVMB iYehY^_d]$7ZZj^[ed_ediWdZYeea"ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_b
UPPVODFTTPGUXIJUF ie\j WdZ ]ebZ[d Xkj dej Xhemd" . je '& c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ
HPBUDIFFTF BUSPPN j^[Whk]kbW"WdZij_hkdj_bm_bj[Z"'je(c_dkj[i$I[Wied
UFNQFSBUVSF b_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$
 7ZZj^[fWijWjej^[ed_edc_njkh["WdZjeii$:_l_Z[
N  4FSWFT X[jm[[d ( mWhc[Z fbWj[i WdZ YhkcXb[ ^Wb\ j^[ ]eWj
Y^[[i[ el[h [WY^
fehj_ed$ 7ZZ W
][d[heki]h_dZ_d]
e\f[ff[h$

-& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_VPR `]V_NY` dVaU N`]N_NTb`

5)*4 *4 " 1&3'&$ 5 dish for spring, when lo- QPVOETMFOEFS

cal asparagus starts appearing in the markets or BTQBSBHVT XPPEZQBSU


your garden, should you be so lucky. Cook the as- PGUIFTUBMLTTOBQQFE
paragus until tender; it should be about the same PGG
consistency as the cooked pasta. 'JOFTFBTBMU
TUSJQTMFNPO[FTU 
sJODI TMJWFSFE
 8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWhWf_ZXe_b"WdZWZZj^[ UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF
WifWhW]ki WdZ W j[Wifeed e\ iWbj$ H[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je TQJSBMT
c[Z_kc"WdZi_cc[hj^[WifWhW]kikdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj+ UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
c_dkj[i$H[cel[m_j^jed]ijeWYkjj_d]XeWhZ$?dYh[Wi[ WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
j^[^[Wjje^_]^"WZZj^[b[cedp[ijWdZfWijWif_hWbi" TNBMMPOJPO DIPQQFE
WdZ Xe_b kdj_b j^[ fWijW _i Wb Z[dj[" WXekj '& c_dkj[i$ 1JODIPGESJFESFE
J[ij e\j[d je Y^[Ya \eh Zed[d[ii$ 9kj j^[ WifWhW]ki QFQQFSºBLFT
Z_W]edWbbo_dje(#_dY^b[d]j^i$ DVQHSBUFE

 C[Wdm^_b["^[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[j 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP


el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed
WdZh[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZiWkjƒkdj_bj^[ed_ed_ij[dZ[h N  4FSWFT
XkjdejYebeh[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[YkjWifWhW]ki"
^[Wj][djbo"WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbj$H[cel[\hecj^[
^[Wj$
 :hW_dj^[fWijWWdZb[cedp[ij"WdZWZZjej^[ia_bb[j$
7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedeb_l[e_b"WdZjeii][djbo
je Xb[dZ$ :_l_Z[ X[jm[[d mWhc[Z fbWj[i" WdZ jef m_j^
j^[FWhc[iWd$

]N`aN 71
P\_ [ ZNPN_\[V N[Q PURR`R

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE . "$ " /%  $ )&& 4&  *4  "  %*4)  that needs


CVUUFS to be homemade before it can become the stuff of
UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO which fond memories are made. Rice or quinoa
SJDFºPVS pasta elbows work equally well.
DVQTNJML IFBUFE
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+–<$8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hje
-BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH  Whebb_d]Xe_b$=h[Wi[W,#Ykfi^WbbemXWa_d]Z_i^$
QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ  C[bj)jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[h_dW^[WloiWkY[fWd
HSBUFE el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZij_hkdj_b
DVQHSBUFETIBSQ iceej^"(&i[YedZi$7ZZj^[^ejc_ba"WdZm^_iakdj_b
$IFEEBSDIFFTF j^[c_njkh[Xe_biWdZj^_Ya[di"WXekj(c_dkj[i$I[Wied
DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF jejWij[m_j^iWbj"f[ff[h"WdZj^[dkjc[]$Ij_h_d)À*Ykf
'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT e\j^[]hWj[Z9^[ZZWhWdZi[jWi_Z[$
QBHF
 C[bjj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedXkjj[h_dWicWbbia_bb[j
PVODFTDPSOQBTUB el[hbem^[Wj"ij_h_dj^[Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZh[cel[\hec
FMCPXT j^[^[Wj$
UBCMFTQPPOTHSBUFE  C[Wdm^_b["WZZ'j[WifeediWbjWdZj^[Yehd[bXemi
1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP jej^[Xe_b_d]mWj[h$Ij_hjefh[l[djYbkcf_d]WdZYeea
kdj_bWbZ[dj[",je'&c_dkj[iZ[f[dZ_d]edj^[XhWdZ
N  4FSWFT j[ije\j[d"WdZZhW_d$7ZZjej^[Y^[[i[iWkY["WdZfekh
_djej^[XWa_d]Z_i^$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]]hWj[Z
9^[ZZWh WdZ j^[ FWhc[iWd" WdZ iYWjj[h j^[ Xkjj[h[Z
Xh[WZ YhkcXi ed jef$ 8Wa[ kdYel[h[Z kdj_b j^[ iWkY[
XkXXb[i WdZ j^[ jef _i j_d][Z ]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (&
c_dkj[i$ ?\ _j¼i dej Xhemd [dek]^ Xo j^[d" Xhe_b \eh (
c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

-( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
T_NaV[zRQ _VPR SY\b_ PN[[RYY\[V

)&3&  5 &/%&3  3*$&  $3Á1& 4  are filled ragù


with a savory meat mixture but not blanketed UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
with the usual flour-based béchamel or tomato WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
sauce. The ragù recipe makes about 6 cups; freeze POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE
the remainder for serving with gluten-free pasta, QPVOETHSPVOECFFG
mixed with ricotta, cooked spinach, or lightly DVQESZXIJUFXJOF
cooked tomato to loosen it a bit. Time permitting, QPVOEQSPTDJVUUP 

make the ragù a day ahead so that the flavors can XJUIGBU DIPQQFEBOE
develop. QSPDFTTFEUPBQBTUF
UFBTQPPOGFOOFMTFFET

MBSHFDBO PVODFT

 JecWa[j^[hW]’0>[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWbWh]["^[Wlo# *UBMJBOUPNBUPFT XJUI
Xejjec[Z iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ UIFJSKVJDF
ed_ed" WdZ iWkjƒ kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ UBCMFTQPPOTUPNBUP
j^[X[[\"Xh[Wa_d]_jkfm[bb"WdZYeeakdj_b_jbei[i_ji QBTUF
f_daYebeh"WXekj'&c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[m_d["WdZYeea 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
\eh ( c_dkj[i ceh[$ 7ZZ j^[ fheiY_kjje" \[dd[b i[[Zi" HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
jecWje[i"WdZjecWjefWij[$8h_d]jeWXe_b"cWi^_d]j^[
jecWje[im_j^WmeeZ[difeed$H[ZkY[j^[^[Wj"fWhj_Wbbo
Yel[hj^[fWd"WdZi_cc[h][djbo"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo"
kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ _i h[ZkY[Z je Wffhen_cWj[bo , Ykfi"
WXekj)^ekhi$JWij["WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$
JhWdi\[hjeWXemb"b[jYeeb"Yel[h"WdZh[\h_][hWj[$
 Je Wii[cXb[0 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *(+–<$ =h[Wi[ W
Y[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^bWh][[dek]^je^ebZj^[YWdd[bbed_ N  4FSWFTUP
_ded[bWo[hehki[jmeicWbb[hed[im_j^(jWXb[ifeedi
e\ j^[ Xkjj[h$ 8b[dZ j^[ hW]’ m_j^ j^[ h_YejjW" ^Wb\ j^[

]N`aN 73
to a s s e m b le FWhc[iWd" WdZ j^[ fWhib[o$ BWo j^[ Yh…f[i ed W meha
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE ikh\WY[" Xhemd[Z i_Z[ Zemd$ FbWY[ 'À) Ykf Äbb_d] Zemd
CVUUFS j^[ Y[dj[h e\ [WY^ ed[ WdZ hebb kf" m_j^ekj jkYa_d] _d
3JDF'MPVS$SpQFT j^[[dZi$FbWY[j^[Äbb[ZYh…f[i"i[Wci_Z[Zemd"_dj^[
QBHF
XWa_d]Z_i^"jekY^_d][WY^ej^[h$:ejm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]
DVQT3BH} ( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h" WdZ ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d]
DVQSJDPUUB FWhc[iWd$8Wa[kdj_bb_]^j]ebZ[dXhemdWdZj^[[dZie\
DVQGSFTIMZHSBUFE j^[hebb[ZYh…f[iWh[Yh_ifo"WXekj'+c_dkj[i$B[jh[ij\eh
1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP '&c_dkj[iX[\eh[i[hl_d]$
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
QBSTMFZ

-* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
S _R`U _VPR SY\b_ RTT ]N`aN

. " , */( :0 63 08 / 1" 4 5" will elicit awe DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

and admiration (unless, of course, you have an DVQUBQJPDBºPVS

Italian grandmother), but it’s really easy using UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

rice flour, as the pasta dough doesn’t resist being HVN


rolled out. It can be cut into any width you like: UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
1 ⁄4 inch wide for fettuccine, 1 ⁄ 2 inch wide for pap- MBSHFFHH
pardelle, or 2 inches wide for lasagne. The recipe MBSHFFHHZPML
makes two 12 s 10-inch sheets of silky pasta, UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
weighing about 4 ounces each, and can be dou- PMJWFPJM
bled. As with all fresh pasta, it cooks in just 2 or 3
minutes.

 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" jWf_eYW Åekh" nWdj^Wd ]kc"


WdZiWbj_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZfheY[iijec_n$9ecX_d[
j^[[]]"[]]oeba"eb_l[e_b"WdZ'jWXb[ifeedmWj[h_dW
]bWii c[Wikh_d] Ykf" WdZ m^_ia je YecX_d[$ M_j^ j^[
cejehhkdd_d]"fekhj^[[]]c_njkh[el[hj^[Åekh"WdZ N  .BLFT QPVOETFSWFT
fkbi[kdj_bj^[Zek]^\ehci_djeWhek]^XWbb$?\jeeZho"
WZZ W \[m Zhefi e\ mWj[h1 _\ jee m[j" WZZ W b_jjb[ ceh[
h_Y[Åekh$H[cel["WdZfWjje][j^[h_djeWZ_ia$9kjj^[
Zek]^_d^Wb\"WdZmeham_j^ed[^Wb\WjWj_c[$
 FbWY[WXWbbe\Zek]^X[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf
WdZhebb_djeWl[hoj^_d"[l[dh[YjWd]b[Wffhen_cWj[bo'&
s'(_dY^[i"jkhd_d]_ji[l[hWbj_c[i$?jWb_WdYeeaiiWo
oeki^ekbZX[WXb[jeh[WZd[mifWf[h^[WZb_d[ij^hek]^
hebb[ZfWijWZek]^$$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^$

]N`aN 75
?\ ki_d] _cc[Z_Wj[bo" f[[b e\\ j^[ jef bWo[h e\ fbWij_Y
mhWf WdZ Ykj j^[ Zek]^ _dje ijh_fi e\ Z[i_h[Z m_Zj^$
?\ h[\h_][hWj_d] eh \h[[p_d]" b[Wl[ j^[ i^[[ji _di_Z[ j^[
fbWij_YmhWfWdZYkjbWj[h$F[[bj^[ijh_fiWmWo\hecj^[
Xejjeci^[[je\fbWij_YmhWfWdZbWoedWmeeZ[dXeWhZ"
ieoekYWdWZZj^[cjej^[Xe_b_d]mWj[hWbbWjedY[$
 8h_d](gkWhjimWj[hjeWhebb_d]Xe_b$7ZZ'j[Wifeed
iWbjWdZj^[fWijW$9eea"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bj^[
fWijW _i Wb Z[dj[" ( je ) c_dkj[i$ :hW_d WdZ jeii m_j^
Xkjj[h WdZ FWhc_]_Wde#H[]]_Wde" eh oekh Y^e_Y[ e\
iWkY[$

-, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
_VPR ]N]]N_QRY YR dVaU
Zb`U_\\Z `NbPR

'3& 4)-:  . " %&  8 *%&  /0 0%-& 4  are PVODFT'SFTI3JDF


uniquely satisfying to eat. Maybe it’s their slurpi- 'MPVS&HH1BTUB
ness. Pappardelle are usually served con lepre—with QBHF

hare sauce—but you can serve this pasta with a PVODFESJFEQPSDJOJ

rich and chunky mushroom sauce instead. Grated NVTISPPNT TPBLFE


Parmesan would be superfluous here. JODVQXBSNXBUFS
GPSNJOVUFT
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
 9kjj^[fWijW_dje'À(#_dY^m_Z[ijh_fiWdZi[jWi_Z[$ CVUUFS
 B_\jj^[fehY_d_cki^heecf_[Y[i\hecj^[ieWa_d] UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
b_gk_Z" fWj Zho" WdZ Y^ef YeWhi[bo$ IjhW_d j^[ b_gk_Z PMJWFPJM
j^hek]^ W fWf[h Ye\\[[ Äbj[h _dje W icWbb Xemb" WdZ POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE
h[i[hl[$ HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE
 >[Wjj^[Xkjj[hWdZeb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc# PVODFTQBODFUUBPS
bem^[Wj$J^[e_bm_bbfh[l[djj^[Xkjj[h\heciYehY^_d]$ MFBOCBDPO ¹OFMZ
7ZZj^[ed_edWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdej DIPQQFE
Xhemd[Z"+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[ib_Y[Zcki^heeci$Ifh_dab[ QPVOEBTTPSUFE

m_j^j^[j^oc["WdZWZZiWbjWdZf[ff[hjejWij[$9eea" NVTISPPNT XIJUF 


ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_bj^[cki^heecijkhd]bWiio#beea_d]" DSFNJOJ IFOPGUIF
WXekj+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h[i[hl[ZfehY_d_ieWa_d]b_gk_Z" XPPET NPSFMT FUD

)À* Ykf e\ j^[ X[[\ Xhej^" WdZ j^[ CWhiWbW$ H[ZkY[ j^[ TMJDFE
^[Wj je bem" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF
j^[ cki^heeci WdZ ed_ed Wh[ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
j[dZ[h"'&je'+c_dkj[i"WZZ_d] HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
j^[ h[cW_d_d] X[[\ Xhej^ _\ DVQHMVUFOGSFFCFFG
d[[Z[Z je cWa[ W \W_hbo b_gk_Z CSPUI
iWkY[$JWij[\ehi[Wied_d]$ UBCMFTQPPOT.BSTBMB

]N`aN 77
UFBTQPPOTDPSOTUBSDI   C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] W bWh][ fej e\ mWj[h je W hebb_d]
EJTTPMWFEJO Xe_b1WZZ'j[WifeediWbjWdZj^[fWijWijh_fi$8e_bkdj_b
UBCMFTQPPOTXBUFS WbZ[dj["(je)c_dkj[i"ZhW_d"WdZfekh_djeW^[Wj[Z
i[hl_d]Xemb$
N  4FSWFTBTBGJSTUDPVSTF  Ij_hj^[YehdijWhY^c_njkh["WdZWZZjej^[cki^heec
c_njkh[$B[ji_cc[hkdj_b_jj^_Ya[diib_]^jboWdZYb[Whi"
)&i[YedZiehb[ii$Fekhel[hj^[fWijW"WdZjeii][djbo
jec_n$

-. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
N`VN[ `aVPX [\\QYR` dVaU
]\_X N[Q N`]N_NTb`

/& 4 5 4  0 '  # 6/% - &%  " /%  dried Asian s eas oning sauce
rice stick noodles can be found in many large UBCMFTQPPOTXIFBU
supermarkets, along with condiments like bean GSFFUBNBSJTBVDF 
sauce and oyster sauce, which are off-limits as TVDIBT4BO+0SHBOJD
they contain wheat. Here I’ve teamed stick noo- 5BNBSJ
dles with pork with asparagus, but shrimp and UBCMFTQPPOTESZTIFSSZ
snow peas or chicken breast with broccoli work DVQHMVUFOGSFF

well with the same seasoning sauce. As a wok DIJDLFOCSPUI


doesn’t get hot enough on a regular stovetop, I UFBTQPPOUPBTUFE
use a large sauté pan for better heat contact. Stir TFTBNFPJM
the sauce ingredients together first. UFBTQPPOTVHBS

UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

 <ehj^[i[Wied_d]iWkY[09ecX_d[j^[jWcWh_iWkY[" PVODFT"TJBOSJDFTUJDL


i^[hho"Y^_Ya[dXhej^"i[iWc[e_b"ik]Wh"WdZiWbj"WdZi[j OPPEMFT
Wi_Z[$ UBCMFTQPPOTQFBOVUPS
 8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWXe_b"WZZj^[deeZb[i DPSOPJM
Ze dej ieWa Ähij" WdZ Yeea \eh ) c_dkj[i" ij_hh_d] QPVOEMFBOQPSL

eYYWi_edWbbojei[fWhWj[j^[ijhWdZi$Fekh_djeWYebWdZ[h" CPOFMFTTDIPQTBSF
hkdYebZmWj[hel[hj^[deeZb[i"WdZh[i[hl[$ ¹OF
UIJOMZTMJDFE
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE
1JODIPGESJFESFE
QFQQFSºBLFT

]N`aN 79
HSFFOPOJPOT NPTUPG  >[WjWbWh][iWkjƒfWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wj$7ZZ
UIFUPQTJODMVEFE DVU ' jWXb[ifeed e\ j^[ e_b WdZ j_f j^[ fWd je ifh[WZ _j
JOJODIQJFDFTBOE WhekdZ$7ZZj^[feha"WdZij_h#\hokdj_b_jjkhdiX[_][WdZ
TMJWFSFEMFOHUIXBZT _iXWh[boYeea[Zj^hek]^"(c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[
QPVOEQFODJMUIJO WdZifh_dab[m_j^j^[iWbj$
BTQBSBHVT XPPEZ  7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] jWXb[ifeed e_b je j^[ fWd" im_hb
FOETEJTDBSEFE DVUJO _j WhekdZ" WdZ WZZ j^[ ]Whb_Y" h[Z f[ff[h ÅWa[i" WdZ
JODIMFOHUIT ]h[[d ed_edi$ B[j Yeea \eh (& i[YedZi" j^[d WZZ j^[
WifWhW]ki$Ij_h#\ho\eh'c_dkj["WZZ(eh)jWXb[ifeedi
N  4FSWFT mWj[h je Yh[Wj[ ij[Wc" WdZ Yedj_dk[ ij_h#\ho_d] kdj_b
j[dZ[h#Yh_if"WXekj)c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[deeZb[i"WdZ
jeii m[bb$ 7ZZ j^[ i[Wied_d] iWkY[" WdZ Wbbem _j je
[lWfehWj[" jeii_d] j^[ c_njkh[ YedijWdjbo" WXekj (
c_dkj[i ceh[$ H[jkhd j^[ feha WdZ Wdo `k_Y[i je j^[
fWd"WdZ^[Wjj^hek]^"ij_hh_d]WdZjeii_d]"\eh'c_dkj[$
I[hl[_cc[Z_Wj[bo$

.& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


ObPXdURNa `]NRagYR

'6/  50  .",&  5)& 4&  tiny dumplings can DVQCVDLXIFBUºPVS

be served as a side dish with braised meat or DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

chicken, or eaten like pasta with the addition of DVQDPSOTUBSDI

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. If you don’t have a 'JOFTFBTBMU


spaetzle press, which looks a bit like a flat grater UFBTQPPOOVUNFH 

with a movable carriage that slides back and forth, QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ


use a colander with 1 ⁄4-inch wide holes and a rub- HSBUFE
ber spatula instead. For a different flavor, replace MBSHFFHHT MJHIUMZ
the buckwheat flour with chestnut or teff flour. CFBUFO
UPUBCMFTQPPOTNJML
UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM
 I_\j j^[ XkYam^[Wj Åekh" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
'À*j[WifeediWbj"WdZj^[dkjc[]_djeWXemb$Ki_d]W CVUUFS TPGUFOFE
\eha" ij_h _d j^[ []]i WdZ ) jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ c_ba je 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
cWa[Wbkcfo#beea_d]XWjj[h$A[[fij_hh_d]"WdZWZZj^[ QFQQFS
h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedc_ba_\d[[Z[Z$J^[Zek]^i^ekbZ
dej X[ hkddo0 _\ oek b_\j j^[ \eha" _j i^ekbZ ^Wd] \eh W
cec[djX[\eh[Zheff_d]$ N  4FSWFT
 8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWXe_bel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^
^[Wj$ 7ZZ ' jWXb[ifeed iWbj WdZ j^[ YWdebW e_b" m^_Y^
^[bfi je fh[l[dj Ybkcf_d]$ =h[Wi[ W i[hl_d] Z_i^ m_j^
'jWXb[ifeede\j^[Xkjj[h"WdZa[[fmWhc$
 H[ijWifW[jpb[fh[iiel[hj^[fej"WdZifeed'À(Ykfe\
j^[XWjj[h_djej^[celWXb[YWhh_W][$Ib_Z[j^_iXWYaWdZ
\ehj^"m^_Y^m_bbfki^b_jjb[Ykhbie\Zek]^_djej^[mWj[h$
J^[ ifW[jpb[ m_bb im[bb WdZ h_i[ je j^[ ikh\WY[ Wbceij
_cc[Z_Wj[bo$ B[j Yeea \eh ' c_dkj[" WdZ h[cel[ m_j^

]N`aN 81
W ibejj[Z ifeed je W ^[Wj[Z i[hl_d] Z_i^$ H[f[Wj m_j^
j^[h[cW_d_d]XWjj[h$7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedi
Xkjj[hjej^[Z_i^"i[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h"
WdZjeiim[bb$7bj[hdWj_l[bo"jeiij^[ifW[jpb[m_j^Wb_jjb[
l[][jWXb[e_b"iej^[oZed¼jij_Yaje][j^[h"WdZb[jYeeb$
>[Wj_dXkjj[h`kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

.( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
X_hZi
" / :0/&  8 )0  *4  ( -6 5&/ 4 &/4*5*7&  8 *--  #&  delighted to
discover that chicken does not have to be limited to the plain roasted kind. A
delicious breading mixture made from ground nuts and Parmesan adds new
savor to sautéed breast meat, and whole birds can be flattened and then plumped
under the skin with a tasty mushroom stuffing. The holiday bird benefits from
a new, meatier, gluten-free dressing, and the accompanying gravy is just as
good when thickened with rice flour or cornstarch and livened up with Spanish
sherry.

.)
UNgRY[ba N[Q ]N_ZR`N[
PUVPXR[ PbaYRa`

803-%4  "8":  '30.  %&&1  ' 3*&%  fast DIJDLFOCSFBTUIBMWFT 


food, slices of tender chicken breast have a light, PVODFTFBDI 
crispy coating that’s full of flavor. The recipe can, TLJOMFTTBOECPOFMFTT
of course, be doubled; but use two pans or the DVQIB[FMOVUNFBM

cutlets will steam instead of brown. They should DVQHSBUFE

not touch each other as they cook. If you can’t 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP


find hazelnut meal, make it yourself by grinding MBSHFFHH
hazelnuts in an electric coffee mill reserved for 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
grinding spices and other items; a food processor HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS
tends to make nut paste rather than flour. UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
8IJUFSJDFºPVS GPS
 H[cel[ j^[ bed] Äbb[j WdZ ib_Y[ j^[ Y^_Ya[d c[Wj ESFEHJOH
^eh_pedjWbboi[[X[bem"cWa_d]*ib_Y[i$9ecX_d[j^[ )B[FMOVUPJM PQUJPOBM
^Wp[bdkjc[WbWdZFWhc[iWdedWfbWj[$8[Wjj^[[]]_d -FNPOXFEHFT
Wi^WbbemXemb"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h"
 >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j
i^_cc[hi$:_fj^[Y^_Ya[df_[Y[i_dj^[h_Y[Åekh"i^Wa_d] N  4FSWFT
e\\ Wdo [nY[ii" j^[d _d j^[ i[Wied[Z []]" WdZ ÄdWbbo _d
j^[Y^[[i[#^Wp[bdkjXb[dZ$IWkjƒkdj_b]ebZ[dXhemded
Xej^i_Z[iWdZYeea[Zj^hek]^")c_dkj[iehb[ii$FbWY[
ed^[Wj[ZZ_dd[hfbWj[i"Zh_ppb[m_j^^Wp[bdkje_b"_\ki_d]"
WdZ]Whd_i^m_j^b[cedm[Z][i$

0HE?EJC DE?GAJNA=OPO%KNEVKJP=HHU

7Y^_Ya[dXh[Wij_iWdWmamWhZi^Wf[\eh[l[dYeea_d]"
iecWdoh[Y_f[ih[Yecc[dZX[Wj_d]_jÅWj$Ib_Y_d]j^[

OV_Q` 85
c[Wj^eh_pedjWbbo_igk_Ya[h"]_l[iWX[jj[hj[njkh["WdZ
_cfh[ii[i edbeea[hi de [dZ$ M_[bZ_d] W i^Whf fWh_d]
ad_\["beYWj[WdZh[cel[j^[fWhj_WbboZ[jWY^[Zbed]Äbb[j
\hec W ia_dd[Z WdZ Xed[Z Y^_Ya[d Xh[Wij ^Wb\ WdZ i[j
Wi_Z[$;_j^[hYeeaj^[Äbb[jWbed]i_Z[j^[Xh[Wijc[Wj"
eh \h[[p[ \eh W ij_h#\ho Wdej^[h ZWo$ FbWY[ j^[ Xh[Wij
c[WjedW meeZ[d Y^eff_d] XeWhZ" m_j^ j^[ hekdZ[Z"
ia_di_Z[kff[hceij$BWoed[^WdZÅWjedjef"Äd][hi
ekjijh[jY^[Z$Ib_Y[j^[Xh[Wij_dje[gkWb^Wbl[iehj^_hZi
Z[f[dZ_d]edi_p[WdZj^_Yad[iim_j^WiWm_d]cej_ed"
fWhWbb[bjej^[XeWhZWdZiW\[bokdZ[hd[Wj^oekhfWbc$

., j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
PUVPXR[ V[ PUN_Q\[[Nf

*/41*3&%  #:  "  5)3*' 5 :  French country QPVOETCPOFMFTT 


recipe for turning a tough old cockerel into some- TLJOMFTTDIJDLFOUIJHIT
thing worthwhile, this lighter version of coq au 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
vin substitutes the succulent thigh meat of young HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
chickens and white wine for an old bird and red UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
wine. The sauce is thickened with a little corn- WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
starch, and the dish takes far less time to cook. UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE
Serve with quinoa or long-grain white rice. CVUUFS
DVQCSBOEZ

POJPO DIPQQFE
 H[cel[Wdobeei[\Wj\hecj^[Y^_Ya[dj^_]^i"WdZYkj HBSMJDDMPWFT DIPQQFE
_d^Wb\b[d]j^mWoi$I[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ DVQ$IBSEPOOBZ
 >[Wj^Wb\j^[eb_l[e_bWdZj^[Xkjj[h_dWbWh][iWkjƒ UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF
fWd el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj$ 8hemd j^[ Y^_Ya[d f_[Y[i ed DIJDLFOCSPUI
Xej^i_Z[i"WXekj-c_dkj[i"_djmeXWjY^[i_\d[Y[iiWho$ CBZMFBWFT
H[cel[j^[fWd\hecj^[^[Wj$Fekhj^[XhWdZoel[hj^[ TUSJQTMFBOCBDPO EJDFE
Y^_Ya[d"Wl[hjoekh\WY["WdZYWh[\kbbo_]d_j[$M^[dj^[ PVODFTTIBMMPUT 
ÅWc[iZ_[Zemd"jhWdi\[hj^[Y^_Ya[dWdZWdo`k_Y[ije QFFMFEBOETFQBSBUFE
WXemb$ BMPOHOBUVSBMEJWJTJPOT
 H[jkhdj^[fWdjec[Z_kc NFEJVNXIJUFPS
^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[h[cW_d_d] CSPXONVTISPPNT
eb_l[e_bIj_h_dj^[ed_edWdZ BCPVUQPVOE

Yeeakdj_bjhWdibkY[dj"WXekj IBMWFE
+ c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ ]Whb_Y$ UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI
7ZZj^[m_d["iYhWf_d]m_j^W DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ

meeZ[d ifeed je Xh_d] kf


Wbbj^[Xhemd[ZX_ji\hecj^[ N  4FSWFT

OV_Q` 87
Xejjece\j^[fWd"WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$7ZZj^[XWob[Wl[i$
H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[dWdZWYYkckbWj[Z`k_Y[ijej^[fWd"
WZZ 'À(Ykfe\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeWi_cc[h$
H[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[h\eh'+c_dkj[i$
Jkhd j^[ Y^_Ya[d f_[Y[i" WZZ_d] ceh[ Y^_Ya[d ijeYa _\
d[Y[iiWhojefh[l[djZho_d]ekj"WdZYedj_dk[i_cc[h_d]
kdj_b j^[ Y^_Ya[d _i j[dZ[h WdZ j^[ `k_Y[i hkd Yb[Wh _\
f_[hY[Zm_j^Wad_\[j_f"Wdej^[h'+c_dkj[i$
 C[Wdm^_b["^[WjWbWh][ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj
WdZ WZZ j^[ XWYed$ M^[d j^[ \Wj ijWhji je hkd" ( je )
c_dkj[i"WZZj^[i^WbbejiWdZcki^heeci$IWkjƒkdj_b
b_]^jboYebeh[Z"+c_dkj[i"j^[dWZZ'À(YkfY^_Ya[dXhej^
WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$H[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[hj^[fWd"
WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"'&je'+c_dkj[i"Z[f[dZ_d]ed
j^[i_p[e\j^[i^Wbbeji$
 M^[dh[WZojei[hl["WZZj^[i^WbbejiWdZcki^heeci
je j^[ Y^_Ya[d$ C_n j^[ YehdijWhY^ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed
mWj[h"ij_h_djej^[iWkY["WdZb[jXkXXb[kdj_b_jj^_Ya[di
WdZ Yb[Whi" )& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ JhWdi\[h je W ^[Wj[Z
i[hl_d]Z_i^"Z_iYWhZ_d]j^[XWob[Wl[i"WdZifh_dab[m_j^
j^[fWhib[o$

.. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
T_\b[Q PUVPXR[ _\YY
dVaU ^bV[\N

5 )*4  61 4$ " - &  7 &3 4*0 /  0 ' meat loaf be- &YUSBWJSHJOPMJWFPJM
comes a pâté when cold, and will keep refriger- MBSHFFHH
ated for three days. Serve hot with a marinara UFBTQPPOTNJODFE
sauce, or cold with salad greens. The secret PSBOHF[FTU
ingredient—quinoa flakes—promotes a smooth NFEJVN[VDDIJOJ WFSZ
texture, and paper-thin zucchini slices, rather UIJOMZTMJDFE
than fat, keep it moist. Vacuum-packed prosciutto DVQRVJOPBºBLFT

is the best choice here, as the slices are large and UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
uniform and are separated by paper sheets for 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
easy handling. QFQQFS
UFBTQPPOGFOOFM

TFFET DSVTIFE
 >[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$BWoWbWh][i^[[je\Wbkc_dkc DVQESZSPBTUFE 

\e_bedWmehaikh\WY["WdZb_]^jbo]h[Wi[Wd.s.#_dY^ VOTBMUFEQJTUBDIJPT 
Wh[W_dj^[Y[dj[hm_j^eb_l[e_b$ PQUJPOBM
 9hWYaj^[[]]_djeWc_n_d]Xemb"WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$Ij_h QPVOECPOFMFTT 
_dj^[ehWd][p[ij"pkYY^_d_"gk_deW"iWbj"f[ff[h"\[dd[b TLJOMFTTDIJDLFOMFH
i[[Zi"WdZf_ijWY^_ei"_\ki_d]$7ZZj^[]hekdZY^_Ya[d NFBU DPBSTFMZHSPVOE
WdZ c_n ][djbo Xkj j^ehek]^bo$ BWo ) eh * ib_Y[i e\ j^[ TFFQBHF

fheiY_kjje ed j^[ \e_b" ib_]^jbo el[hbWff_d]" je \ehc W UPMBSHFTMJDFT BCPVU
,s.#_dY^h[YjWd]b[$CekdZj^[Y^_Ya[dc_njkh[Wbed] PVODFT
QSPTDJVUUP
j^[Y[dj[hWjWh_]^jWd]b[jej^[ib_Y[i"\ehc_d]Whebb$
8h_d]j^[fheiY_kjjekfWhekdZXej^i_Z[i$BWoWdej^[h N  4FSWFT
ib_Y[e\fheiY_kjjeb[d]j^m_i[Wbed]j^[jefWdZfWj_dje
fbWY[1_jm_bbYb_d]jej^[hebb$Jkhdj^[hebbel[hiej^Wj
j^[ijh_f[Zikh\WY[_iedjef"WdZXhki^b_]^jbom_j^eb_l[
e_b$Ki_d]j^[\e_bWiWib_d]"jhWdi\[hj^[hebbWdZ\e_bjeW

OV_Q` 89
i^WbbemheWij_d]fWd$8Wa["kdYel[h[Z"kdj_b`kijYeea[Z
j^hek]^ WdZ W c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h _di[hj[Z d[Wh j^[
Y[dj[hh[]_ij[hi',+–<"WXekj+&c_dkj[i$B[jj^[Y^_Ya[d
hebbYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$

$NKQJ@ DE?GAJ

8ko h[WZo#]hekdZ Y^_Ya[d c[Wj edbo \hec W h[b_WXb[


cWha[jm_j^W^_]^jkhdel[h$=_l[d^Wb\WY^WdY["XWYj[h_W
h[`e_Y[WdZckbj_fboedj^[cWdoikh\WY[ie\]hekdZhWm
fekbjho" eh Wdo c[Wj \eh j^Wj cWjj[h" j^Wj¼i b[\j i_jj_d]
WhekdZ$ 7bj[hdWj_l[bo" ]h_dZ Y^_Ya[d oekhi[b\ _d W \eeZ
fheY[iieh$ M_j^ j^[ cejeh hkdd_d]" Zhef Xed[b[ii WdZ
ia_db[ii Y^kdai j^hek]^ j^[ \[[Z jkX[" ijeff_d] m^[d
j^[ c[Wj _i YeWhi[bo ]hekdZ$ :ed¼j el[hZe _j" eh oek¼bb
[dZkfm_j^WfWij[$

/& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


PUVPXR[ N[Q ^bV[\N
Z\_\PPN[ `afYR

*/  5 )*4  7" 3*"5 *0/  0/  North African QPVOECPOFEBOE


couscous, a savory dish of semolina grains steamed TLJOOFEDIJDLFOCSFBTU
over a savory chicken or lamb and vegetable stew, NFBU DVUJOUPJODI
quinoa replaces the wheat couscous. The tradi- DIVOLT
tional accompaniment for couscous is an incendi- 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
ary condiment called harissa. Make it first. HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
 I[Wied j^[ Y^_Ya[d m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ >[Wj POJPO DIPQQFE
( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W '&# eh '(#_dY^ iWkjƒ HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE
fWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE
Y^_Ya[d"WdZiWkjƒkdj_bXhemd[Zedj^[ekji_Z[Xkjij_bb HJOHFS
ib_]^jbof_da_dj^[Y[dj[hYkjjej[ij"WXekj*c_dkj[i$ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE
I[jWi_Z[edWfbWj[$ DVNJO
 7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] jWXb[ifeed eb_l[ e_b je j^[ fWd$ (FOFSPVTQJODIPG
7ZZj^[ed_edWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZYeea"ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_b TBGGSPOUISFBETPS
ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ ]_d][h" Ykc_d" UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

iW\\hed"WdZh[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZYeeakdj_b\hW]hWdj" UVSNFSJD
)& i[YedZi$ 7ZZ j^[ YWhheji" X[bb f[ff[h" jecWje[i" UFBTQPPOESJFESFE

WdZ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^$ H[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem$ I_cc[h" QFQQFSºBLFT
kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[ l[][jWXb[i Wh[ j[dZ[h#Yh_if" WXekj DVQTCBCZDBSSPUT
'& c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ pkYY^_d_" WdZ Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] SFECFMMQFQQFS SJCT
kdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj'&c_dkj[ibed][h$JWij[WdZWZ`kij BOETFFETSFNPWFE 
j^[i[Wied_d]m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[d DVUJOUPJODIDIVOLT
jej^[fWd"WdZ][djboh[^[Wj$ SJQFUPNBUPFT DPSFE
 JecWa[j^[]Whd_i^0J[dc_dkj[iX[\eh[j^[Y^_Ya[d BOEDVUJOUPJODI
_ih[WZo"^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$ DIVOLT

OV_Q` 91
DVQTHMVUFOGSFF 7ZZj^[mWbdkji"WdZXhemdb_]^jbo"(c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[
DIJDLFOCSPUI hW_i_di"WdZh[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$
[VDDIJOJ RVBSUFSFE  Jei[hl["cekdZj^[gk_deWedjeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[heh*
MFOHUIXJTFBOEDVU mWhc[ZZ_dd[hfbWj[i$Ifeedj^[Y^_Ya[d"l[][jWXb[i"WdZ
JOUPJODIDIVOLT Xhej^el[hj^[gk_deW$=Whd_i^m_j^j^[mWbdkji"hW_i_di"
WdZY_bWdjhe$FWiij^[^Wh_iiWWjj^[jWXb[$I[hl[i*$
g a rn i s h
UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
PMJWFPJM UN_V``N `NbPR
DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT

PSQJOFOVUT 9ecX_d[(je)jWXb[ifeedih[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"*j[Wifeedi
DVQSBJTJOT TPBLFE YWhWmWoi[[Zi"(j[WifeediYkc_di[[Zi"WdZ'j[Wifeed
JOIPUXBUFSGPS iWbj_dWif_Y[]h_dZ[hehYb[Wd[b[Yjh_YYe\\[[c_bb"WdZ
NJOVUFT ESBJOFE ]h_dZjeWYeWhi[femZ[h$CWi^*Y^eff[Z]Whb_YYbel[i
DVQMJHIUMZQBDLFE jeWfWij[$?dWicWbbiWkY[fWd"YecX_d[j^[]Whb_YfWij[
GSFTIDJMBOUSPMFBWFT  m_j^j^[]hekdZif_Y[iWdZ 'À)Ykf[njhWl_h]_deb_l[e_b$
TUFNTEJTDBSEFE I_cc[hl[ho][djbo\eh+c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb$CWa[iWXekj
'À(Ykf$I[hl[_dWicWbbXemb$

)BSJTTB4BVDF SFDJQF
GPMMPXT

2VJOPB SFDJQFGPMMPXT

N  4FSWFT

/( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
^bV[\N DVQMJHIUZFMMPXRVJOPB
DVQTHMVUFOGSFF
7^Wb\^ekhX[\eh[_j_id[[Z[Z"h_di[j^[gk_deWjemWi^ DIJDLFOCSPUIPSXBUFS
e\\ Wdo dWjkhWbbo eYYkhh_d] X_jj[h iWfed_di$ 8h_d] j^[ 4BMU PQUJPOBM
Xhej^jeWXe_bel[h^_]^^[Wj$7ZZj^[gk_deWWdZiWbj"
_\d[[Z[Zj^[Xhej^cWoX[iWbjo[dek]^1_\ki_d]mWj[h"
WZZ 'À(j[WifeediWbj"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[hj^[
fWd" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j^[ ]hW_di Wh[ j[dZ[h WdZ j^[
b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+c_dkj[i$

OV_Q` 93
PUVPXR[ dVaU
Zb`U_\\Z `abSSV[T

UPQPVOEDIJDLFO  8& "-5):"/$*&/530."/4'"5 5&/&%


TLJOJOUBDU chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel,
a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The
stuffing birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enor-
PVODFESJFEQPSDJOJ mous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite.
NVTISPPNT TPBLFE Not having any chickens or mead with which to
JOXBSNXBUFSGPS practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but
NJOVUFT I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s
DVQRVJOPBºBLFT size and flavor by stuffing it under the skin. To
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE make the savory stuffing, you will need bread
CVUUFS TPGUFOFE crumbs made from day-old Quick White Rice
UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO Flour Flatbread (page 133).
PMJWFPJM
TNBMMPOJPO NJODFE
HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE  H[cel[Wdo[nY[ii\WjWdZj^[]_Xb[ji\hecj^[Y^_Ya[d"
QPSUPCFMMPNVTISPPN  h_di["WdZfWjZho$Ki_d]fekbjhoi^[WhiehWi^Whfad_\["Ykj
BCPVUPVODFT ¹OFMZ Wbed] [_j^[h i_Z[ e\ j^[ XWYaXed[" j^hek]^ j^[ h_Xi" WdZ
DIPQQFE Z_iYWhZ_j$Ef[dj^[X_hZekjWdZ]_l[_jWÄhcXbemehjme"
PVODFTQSPTDJVUUP  ki_d]j^[^[[be\oekh^WdZ"jeÅWjj[dj^[Xh[Wij\khj^[h$
¹OFMZDIPQQFE  Je cWa[ j^[ ijk\Äd]0 B_\j j^[ fehY_d_ f_[Y[i \hec
UFBTQPPOTDIPQQFE j^[ Xemb" h[i[hl_d] j^[
GSFTIUIZNFPS WhecWj_YieWa_d]b_gk_Z
UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF \ehWdej^[hki["igk[[p[
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ Zho"WdZY^efÄd[bo$
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS  >[Wj*jWXb[ifeedi
e\ j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ j^[
eb_l[ e_b m^_Y^ m_bb

/* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
fh[l[dj _j \hec iYehY^_d] _d W bWh][ iWkjƒ fWd el[h DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF

c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed" ]Whb_Y" fehjeX[bbe" 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT


fehY_d_" WdZ fheiY_kjje$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[ j^oc[" WdZ QBHF

i[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ I_cc[h ][djbo kdj_b MBSHFFHH MJHIUMZ
ie\j[d[Z" WXekj '& c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ Xh[WZ YhkcXi CFBUFO
WdZgk_deWÅWa[i"WdZh[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$B[jYeeb\eh
'&c_dkj[i"WdZij_h_dj^[[]]$ N  4FSWFT
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+–<$
 Beei[dj^[ia_de\j^[Y^_Ya[d\hecj^[Å[i^el[hj^[
Xh[WijWdZb[]im_j^oekhÄd][hi"X[_d]YWh[\kbdejjej[Wh
_j"XkjZed¼jZ[jWY^Wjj^[i_Z[i$?di[hjicWbb^WdZ\kbie\
ijk\Äd] kdZ[h j^[ ia_d" fki^_d] _j Wbed] \hec ed jef$
CebZWdZfbkcfj^[X_hZ_dje_jieh_]_dWbi^Wf[$CWa[
jme '#_dY^ ib_ji _d j^[ ia_d `kij i^ehj e\ j^[ Zhkcij_Ya
[dZi"jemWhZj^[jW_b$Fea[j^[Zhkcij_Yaij^hek]^j^[
ib_jiWdZ \ebZj^[m_d] j_fikdZ[h"m^_Y^ ^[bfi je a[[f
j^[ Y^_Ya[d ÅWj Wi _j heWiji$ Ic[Wh m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d]
jWXb[ifeedXkjj[hWdZifh_dab[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$FbWY[
ed W hWYa _d W heWij_d] fWd$ HeWij kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd
WdZ Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h _di[hj[Z _d j^[
Xh[Wijh[WY^[i',+–<" XWij_d] jm_Y[m_j^ j^[ fWd `k_Y[i
W\j[hj^[Ähij^Wb\^ekh"WXekj*&c_dkj[i_dWbb$JhWdi\[h
jeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[h"WdZZ_iYWhZj^[\WjjoZh_ff_d]i$B[j
h[ij\eh'&c_dkj[i"WdZYkj_djegkWhj[hi$

OV_Q` 95
YRZ\[ ] N_`YRf
PUVPXR[ YRT`

XIPMFDIJDLFOMFHT  4 5 6''*/(  8 )0-&  $)*$,&/  -&(4  un-


UPPVODFTFBDI der the skin with a mixture of onion, parsley,
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE lemon, and rice flour bread crumbs makes them
CVUUFS look and taste special, and they can be prepared
UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO several hours ahead of baking. A pilaf made with
PMJWFPJM rice, millet, or quinoa goes well here.
TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ
DIPQQFE
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$B_d[Wi^WbbemXWa_d]fWd
QBSTMFZ ehWh_cc[ZXWa_d]i^[[jm_j^Wbkc_dkc\e_b$
(SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO  I[fWhWj[j^[ia_de\j^[Y^_Ya[db[]i\hecj^[Å[i^m_j^
DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF oekhÄd][hi"XkjZed¼jZ[jWY^Wjj^[i_Z[i$9kjj^hek]^j^[
'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT ia_dWhekdZj^[`e_dj"i[l[h_d]Wbbj^[m^_j[j[dZedi$Ki_d]
QBHF
WfWf[hjem[b\ehW]eeZ]h_f"^ebZj^[j[dZedied[WjW
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ j_c[ WdZ fkbb1 j^[d Ykj ekj Wi ckY^ Wi feii_Xb[$ J^[i[
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS j[dZedi jek]^[d [l[d ceh[ m^[d Yeea[Z" ie h[cel_d]
j^[ccWa[ij^[Zhkcij_Yac[Wjceh[_dl_j_d]$
N  4FSWFT  >[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hWdZj^[eb_l[e_bm^_Y^
m_bbfh[l[djiYehY^_d]_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZ
j^[ed_edWdZYeea][djbokdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdejXhemd[Z"
WXekj - c_dkj[i$
Ij_h _d j^[ fWhib[o"
b[ced p[ij" WdZ
Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZ
h[cel[ \hec j^[
^[Wj$ I[Wied m_j^

/, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
iWbjWdZf[ff[hWdZb[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[i$J^[ijk\Äd]
m_bbbeeaZho$
 ?di[hj ed[#gkWhj[h e\ j^[ ijk\Äd] kdZ[h j^[ ia_d e\
[WY^Y^_Ya[db[]"b_a[Äbb_d]WXW]"fki^_d]_jWbed]\hec
ed jef$ CebZ WdZ fbkcf j^[ Y^_Ya[d b[]i XWYa _dje
j^[_h eh_]_dWb i^Wf[$ J^[ Y^_Ya[d YWd X[ h[\h_][hWj[Z
Wjj^_iijW][$FbWY[_dj^[XWa_d]fWdWdZic[Whj^[c
m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede\Xkjj[h$I[Wiedb_]^jbo
m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$HeWij\eh(&c_dkj[i"XWij[m_j^
j^[ h[dZ[h[Z \Wj" WdZ Yedj_dk[ heWij_d] \eh Wdej^[h (&
c_dkj[ikdj_bj^[ia_d_iXhemdWdZYh_ifoWdZj^[`k_Y[i
hkdYb[Whm^[df_[hY[Zm_j^Wad_\[j_f$

OV_Q` 97
PUVPXR[ dVaU
PRYR_ f N[Q aN__NT\[

QPVOETDIJDLFO "30."5 *$ '3&/$) 5" 33 "(0/ 5 63/4


UIJHINFBU TLJOMFTT simple ingredients into an outstanding dish. Serve
BOECPOFMFTT with Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ 133) or basmati rice for taking up the sauce.
HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS
DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB  9kjj^[Y^_Ya[dj^_]^i_d^Wb\b[d]j^m_i[WdZi[Wied


WJSHJOPMJWFPJM m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$@kijX[\eh[Yeea_d]"Zkijm_j^h_Y[
UBCMFTQPPOTEJDFE Åekh"i^Wa_d]e\\j^[[nY[ii$:ej^_iWjj^[bWijc_dkj[
QBODFUUB iej^[oZed¼jX[Yec[]kccoWdZ_d^_X_jj^[Xhemd_d]
POJPO EJDFE fheY[ii$
DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE  ?dWiWkjƒfWd"^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj
BOEDIPQQFE kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[df_[Y[i"WdZXhemded
UFBTQPPOTDIPQQFE Xej^i_Z[i"WXekj+c_dkj[i$H[cel[jeWfbWj[$
GSFTIUBSSBHPOPS  7ZZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" ed_ed" Y[b[ho" WdZ jWhhW]ed" WdZ
UFBTQPPOESJFE Yeeakdj_bj^[l[][jWXb[iWh[ie\j[d[ZXkjdejYebeh[Z"
UBSSBHPO WXekj+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[m_d[jej^[fWd"iYhWf_d]kf
DVQXIJUFXJOF Wdo]eeZXhemd[ZX_ji"WdZb[jXkXXb[\eh(c_dkj[ije
DVQHMVUFOGSFF h[ZkY[ib_]^jbo$Ij_h_dj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeW
DIJDLFOCSPUI Xe_b$H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[djej^[fWd"jkhd_d]jeYeWjm[bb$
'JOFMZDIPQQFEDFMFSZ H[ZkY[j^[^[Wj"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[Y^_Ya[d_i
MFBWFT Yeea[Zj^hek]^"jkhd_d]edY["WXekj'+c_dkj[i$JWij[
\ehi[Wied_d]$:_l_Z[j^[Y^_Ya[dWced]mWhc[ZfbWj[i$
N  4FSWFT Ifeedj^[iWkY[edjef"WdZiYWjj[hm_j^Y[b[hob[Wl[i$

/. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea
PUVPXR[ N[Q
PUR`a[ba `\b]

3 "5)&3 -*,& " $- " 44*$ game soup in taste UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
and texture, this velvety chestnut soup contains CVUUFS
chunks of juicy, just-cooked-through chicken TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ
rather than the more usual croutons. It makes a DIPQQFE
spectacular first course for a fall or winter dinner DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE
party. Canned chestnut purée is very dense, so it BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE
helps to chop it before adding to the soup. UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF
1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF

PSUFBTQPPO
 ?dWbWh][fej"c[bj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hel[h ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU
c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho WdZ Yeea" CMFOE
ij_hh_d]" kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Yebeh[Z" ) c_dkj[i$ Ij_h DVQTHMVUFOGSFF
_d j^[ >[hX[i Z[ Fhel[dY[ 8b[dZ$ 7ZZ j^[ Y^_Ya[d DIJDLFOCSPUI
Xhej^WdZj^[Y^[ijdkjfkhƒ["Yhki^_d]_j_djej^[Xhej^  PVODF
DBO
m_j^ W fejWje cWi^[h kdj_b iceej^$ I_cc[h" ij_hh_d] VOTXFFUFOFEDIFTUOVU
eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bj^[l[][jWXb[iWh[j[dZ[h"(&c_dkj[i$ QVSnF TVDIBT
J^[iekfm_bbj^_Ya[dWi_jYeeai1_\_j][jijeej^_Ya"WZZ $MnNFOU'BVHJFS
Wb_jjb[mWj[h$JWij["WdZWZZiWbjWdZf[ff[hWid[[Z[Z" 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Xhej^m_bbfheXWXboYedjW_diWbj$ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
 C[Wdm^_b["c[bjj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedXkjj[h_d CPOFMFTTBOETLJOMFTT
Wia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[d"WdZiWkjƒ DIJDLFOUIJHIT
kdj_b`kijYeea[Zj^hek]^"WXekj'c_dkj[$I[Wiedb_]^jbo PVODFTFBDI
XFMM
m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h" WdZ WZZ je j^[ iekf `kij X[\eh[ USJNNFEBOEDVUJO
i[hl_d]$ JODIDVCFT

 BWZb[ _dje mWhc[Z iekf Xembi$ <beWj W jWXb[ifeed UBCMFTQPPOTTPVS


e\iekhYh[Wcedjefe\[WY^i[hl_d]"WdZiYWjj[hm_j^ DSFBN
Y^eff[ZY[b[hob[Wl[i$

OV_Q` 99
$IPQQFEDFMFSZMFBWFT  -NAL=NEJC AHANU

GSPNUPQTPGTNBMM J^[ edbo idW] je ki_d] j^_i WhecWj_Y l[][jWXb[ _i j^Wj
JOOFSSJCT j^[ ÄXheki ijh_d]i Zed¼j ie\j[d Zkh_d] Yeea_d]" m^_Y^
YWd cWa[ [l[d Z_Y[Z Y[b[ho kd[nf[Yj[Zbo Y^[mo$ M^_f
N  4FSWFT
j^[jek]^ijh_d]ie\\_di[YedZiXohkdd_d]Wl[][jWXb[
f[[b[hel[hj^[XWYae\[WY^h_XX[\eh[ki_d]$

'&& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


UR_OR` QR ]_\cR[PR
OYR[Q

5)*4  $- " 44*$  )&3#  #-&/%  originated in UFBTQPPOESJFE

southern France, where wild herbs grow in profu- MBWFOEFS


sion on sunny hillsides. You can buy imported UFBTQPPOTGSFTI
dried Herbes de Provence blends, but making SPTFNBSZMFBWFT 
your own fresh blend gives even more aromatic NJODFE
results. Dried lavender for culinary use is avail- UFBTQPPOTGSFTIUIZNF
able at natural foods stores. MFBWFT NJODFE
UFBTQPPOGSFTI
NBSKPSBNMFBWFT 
Ki_d]WcehjWhWdZf[ijb["fekdZj^[bWl[dZ[hkdj_bXhea[d NJODFE
kf$?\oekZed¼j^Wl[WcehjWh"[dYbei[j^[bWl[dZ[h_dfbWij_Y
mhWfWdZfekdZm_j^j^[XWi[e\W^[WloiWkY[fWd$8b[dZ
m_j^ j^[ c_dY[Z hei[cWho"
j^oc[" WdZ cWh`ehWc$ Ijeh[
Wdo[njhW_dj^[\h[[p[h$

N  .BLFTBCPVUUFBTQPPOT

OV_Q` 101
aUR cR_`NaVYR PUR`a[ba

;l[dj^ek]^_j¼iWdkj"j^[\WjYedj[dje\j^[;khef[WdY^[ijdkj_ibem"b[iij^Wd)f[hY[dj"iem^[d
Zh_[ZWdZ]hekdZ"Y^[ijdkjicWa[Wki[\kbÅekh$O[WhiW]e"feeh?jWb_WdYekdjhoZm[bb[him_j^de
WYY[iijem^[WjÅekhXWa[ZWdkdb[Wl[d[ZY^[ijdkjÅekhÅWjXh[WZedW^ej^[Whj^ijed["hWj^[hb_a[
jhWZ_j_edWbIYejj_i^eWjYWa[iehC[n_YWdjehj_bbWi$8kjm^[dj_c[i]ejX[jj[h"Xh[WZcWZ[\hecm^[Wj
jeea_jifbWY[$JeZWo"?jWb_WdiXWa[Wi_c_bWhZ[di["bem"kdim[[j[d[ZYWa[ÅWleh[Zm_j^eb_l[e_bWdZ
hei[cWho"YWbb[ZYWijW]dWYY_e"Xkjki[Wdel[dhWj^[hj^WdW^[Whj^ijed[$
8oYedjhWij"YWdZ_[ZY^[ijdkji"Y^[ijdkjfWijh_[i"WdZY^[ijdkjifh[WZWh[bknkho\eeZi[d`eo[Z
Wbbel[h;khef[$9^[ijdkjÅekhcWa[i]eeZYWa[i"fWdYWa[i"WdZifW[jpb[$
7bj^ek]^_j¼idWjkhWbboim[[j"j^[<h[dY^\WlehY^[ijdkjfkhƒ[m_j^]Wc[ikY^Wim_bZXeWh
WdZl[d_ied$M^eb[Y^[ijdkji]em[bbm_j^feha"Y^_Ya[d"WdZXkjj[h[ZXWXo8hkii[biifhekji"
WdZ_dijk\Äd]$
:kh_d]j^[\WbbWdZm_dj[hcedj^i"ijeh[i_dDehj^7c[h_YWi[bb]beiio\h[i^Y^[ijdkji_d
j^[i^[bb\ehheWij_d]el[hWdef[dÄh[$M^eb[Y^[ijdkjiZhoekjgk_Yabo"ie_j¼iX[jj[hjei[[a
ekjbeYWbbo]hemdYhefihWj^[hj^Wd_cfehji"m^_Y^m_bb^Wl[X[[djh[Wj[Zm_j^\kd]_Y_Z[i$=e
edb_d[WdZfkhY^Wi[Z_h[Yjbo\hec7c[h_YWd]hem[hi"m^ei[bb[nY[bb[dj\h[i^Y^[ijdkji"Zh_[Z
Y^[ijdkji" WdZ im[[jbo iY[dj[Z Y^[ijdkj Åekh$ I[[ fW][ (''$ :[f[dZ_d] ed ^em ebZ _j _i"
_cfehj[ZY^[ijdkjÅekhYWdZ[l[befWdkdfb[WiWdj"ijhed]iY[djWdZÅWleh$J^[edbomWoje
ÄdZekj_ijeWiaj^[ijeh[cWdW][hjeef[dWXW]\ehoek$
=[jj_d]WY^[ijdkjekje\_ji_dd[hi^[bbWdZh[cel_d]j^[X_jj[h_dj[h_ehia_dh[gk_h[ifWj_[dY[$
OekYWdYkjj^hek]^j^[ia_dWbceijWbbj^[mWoWhekdZj^[dkji"b_a[WX[bj"WdZheWijWicWbbXWjY^
WjWj_c[_dW*&&–<el[d\ehW\[mc_dkj[i"j^[df[[bj^[cX[\eh[j^[o^Wl[j_c[jeYeebe\\$Eh
oekYWdYkjWYheii_djej^[ÅWji_Z[WdZc_YhemWl[j^[c"Wbbem_d].c_dkj[i\ehWfekdZe\dkji"
WdZj^[df[[bj^[c"Xkjj^_ic[j^eZmed¼j]_l[oekj^WjW]h[[WXb[heWij[ZÅWleh$
7bj[hdWj_l[bo" oek YWd Xko heWij[Z" f[[b[Z" h[WZo#je#ki[ m^eb[ Y^[ijdkji _d `Whi eh fbWij_Y
fekY^[i Wj kfiYWb[ ]heY[ho ijeh[i" m^[h[ oek YWd Wbie ÄdZ im[[j[d[Z WdZ kdim[[j[d[Z
Y^[ijdkjfkhƒ[$:ed¼jXej^[hm_j^YWdd[Z;khef[WdY^[ijdkji_dmWj[h$J^[o^Wl[b_jjb[ÅWleh
WdZ\WbbWfWhjWjj^[b[WijfheleYWj_ed$?dY_Z[djWbbo"j^[YhkdY^om^_j[9^_d[i[mWj[hY^[ijdkj
Yeccedbo\ekdZ_dYWdi_idejWdkjWjWbbXkjWYehc"ehXkbX$OekYWd¼jki[j^[c_dfbWY[e\
;khef[WdY^[ijdkji$

'&( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_\N`a PN]\[ dVaU PUR`a[ba N[Q
`Nb`NTR Q_R``V[T

 &±3&  " --  40  64&%  to eating very young


8 QPVOEDBQPOPS
chickens that the taste and texture of a properly SPBTUJOHDIJDLFO
raised mature one comes as a delicious surprise. POJPO RVBSUFSFE
A capon is simply a neutered chicken, fattened UBCMFTQPPO)FSCFTEF
slowly until it reaches a majestic size and has de- 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF
veloped some real flavor. You can order one from 
PSUFBTQPPOT
a butcher, or from the meat department of a store ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU
such as Whole Foods, but if that’s not an option, CMFOE
buy a big, free-range roasting chicken instead. As 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
with turkey, hallowed additions such as fluffy HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce complete UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
the picture. CVUUFS TPGUFOFE
4BVTBHFBOE$IFTUOVU
%SFTTJOH QBHF

 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+–<$
 H[cel[ Wdo ]_Xb[ji \hec j^[ YWl_jo" WdZ h_di[ j^[ DVQTHMVUFOGSFF
YWfed_di_Z[WdZekj$FWjZhom_j^fWf[hjem[bi$Fkjj^[ DIJDLFOCSPUI
ed_ed_dWicWbbXemb"WZZj^[>[hX[iZ[Fhel[dY[8b[dZ" DVQNFEJVNESZ

WdZi[Wiedm_j^fb[djoe\iWbjWdZf[ff[h$J_fj^[ed_ed TIFSSZ
WdZi[Wied_d]_djej^[YWl_jo"WdZj_[j^[b[]ije][j^[h UBCMFTQPPOT
m_j^XkjY^[h¼ijm_d[$FbWY[j^[X_hZedWhWYa_dWheWij_d] DPSOTUBSDI
fWd"WdZic[Whm_j^j^[Xkjj[h$9el[hb_]^jbom_j^Wi^[[j
e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$ HeWij \eh ( ^ekhi" WdZ h[cel[ j^[ N  4FSWFT
\e_b$?\edboed[el[d_iWlW_bWXb["WZZj^[XWa_d]Z_i^e\
IWkiW][WdZ9^[ijdkj:h[ii_d]dem$9edj_dk[heWij_d]
j^[X_hZ\ehWdej^[h(&c_dkj[i¸YWbYkbWj_d]WjejWbe\
(&c_dkj[if[hfekdZfbki(&c_dkj[i[njhW¸kdj_bm[bb

OV_Q` 103
Xhemd[ZWdZWc[Wjj^[hcec[j[h_di[hj[Z_dj^[Xh[Wij
h[WZi ',+–<$ JhWdi\[h je W mWhc[Z fbWjj[h" j[dj beei[bo
m_j^\e_b"WdZb[jh[ij\eh'+c_dkj[i$
 JecWa[j^[]hWlo0Fekhj^[Yeea_d]`k_Y[i\hecj^[
heWij_d]fWd_djeW]bWiic[Wikh_d]Ykf$M^[dj^[\Wj
h_i[i" ifeed e\\ ( jWXb[ifeedi WdZ h[jkhd je j^[ fWd$
:_iYWhZj^[h[cW_d_d]\Wj"Xkjh[i[hl[j^[Yb[WhY^_Ya[d
`k_Y[iWdZXb[dZj^[cm_j^j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^$FbWY[j^[
heWij_d]fWdel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[i^[hho$
Ki_d]WmeeZ[difeed"iYhWf[kfj^[]eeZXhemd[ZX_ji$
7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$IjhW_d_djeW
iWkY[fWd"fbWY[el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZi_cc[h\eh
'&c_dkj[i$8b[dZj^[YehdijWhY^m_j^'À*YkfYebZmWj[h$
Ij_h_d"WdZb[jXkXXb[kdj_bj^[]hWloj^_Ya[diWdZYb[Whi"
)& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ JWij[" WZ`kij i[Wied_d]" WdZ fekh
_djeW^[Wj[ZiWkY[XeWj$9Whl[j^[YWfed"WdZi[hl[m_j^
j^[Zh[ii_d]WdZ]hWlo$

'&* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


`Nb`NTR N[Q PUR`a[ba Q_R``V[T

4 0  1 0 1 6 - " 3  5 ) "5  * 5  upstages the holi- UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL



day bird, this rich and savory dressing is baked VOTBMUFECVUUFS
in a casserole, since stuffing cooked inside the MBSHFPOJPO DIPQQFE
cavity absorbs a huge amount of rendered poul- DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE
try fat. If you prefer a moist texture to a crum- BOEDIPQQFE
bly one, just add more chicken broth. Remember QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL 

to make gluten-free bread for the bread crumbs DSVNCMFE


ahead of time. Pine nuts can be used in lieu of UFBTQPPONJODFETBHF
chestnuts if you prefer, or if chestnuts are hard PSUFBTQPPOESJFE
to find. TBHF
(SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO
PVODFTQBODFUUB ¹OFMZ
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+–<$ DIPQQFE
 =h[Wi[ Wd . s '&#_dY^ el[d#je#jWXb[ XWa_d] Z_i^  DVQTTPGUCSFBE


m_j^ ( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ Xkjj[h$ C[bj j^[ h[cW_d_d] DSVNCTNBEFGSPN


( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj _d W bWh][ EBZPME2VJDL8IJUF
ia_bb[j$7ZZj^[ed_edWdZY[b[ho"WdZYeea"ij_hh_d]"kdj_b 3JDF'MPVS'MBUCSFBE
jhWdibkY[dj"-je.c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[$?dYh[Wi[ QBHF

j^[^[Wjjec[Z_kc"WdZWZZj^[feha"iW]["b[cedp[ij"  UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF


WdZ fWdY[jjW$ IWkjƒ kdj_b j^[ feha bei[i _ji f_da Yebeh" DIJDLFOCSPUI
WXekj-c_dkj[i"Xh[Wa_d]_jkfm[bb$I[jWi_Z[$ DVQRVJOPBºBLFT

 FbWY[j^[Xh[WZYhkcXi_dWbWh][Xemb$:h_ppb[m_j^''À( DVQSFBEZUPVTF


Ykfie\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^b_jjb[Xob_jjb["jeii_d]Wjj^[iWc[ SPBTUFEDIFTUOVUT DVU
j_c[" kdj_b [l[dbo ce_ij[d[Z$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho" JOIBMG PSDVQQJOF
iWkiW][ c_njkh[" gk_deW ÅWa[i" Y^[ijdkji" >[hX[i Z[ OVUT
Fhel[dY[8b[dZ"WdZfWhib[o$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZ
f[ff[h"h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_bbYedjW_d

OV_Q` 105
UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF iWbj"WdZc_nm[bb$J^_icWa[iW\W_hboYhkcXboZh[ii_d]$?\
1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF oekfh[\[hWce_ijed["WZZj^[WZZ_j_edWb 'À(YkfY^_Ya[d

PSUFBTQPPO Xhej^$Ifeedb_]^jbo_djej^[XWa_d]Z_i^"m_j^ekjfWYa_d]$
ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU 8Wa[" kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[ jef _i b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z WdZ
CMFOE YhkdY^o")+je*&c_dkj[i$
DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ

'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS

N  4FSWFT

'&, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


TNZR UR[` dVaU
_\N`aRQ a\ZNa\R` N[Q
\_N[TR _VPR ]VYNS
*5 ± 4  /05  %*''*$ 6-5  50  remove the back- UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
bone and tiresome little rib bones from a game WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QMVT
hen, which makes it much easier to eat. Or ask FYUSBGPSHSFBTJOHQBO
your butcher to do it. Use very small tomatoes, as DVQTUJOZUPNBUPFT 
the skins on regular cherry tomatoes are too TVDIBT4XFFUT
tough for this preparation. Trilogy rice blend (a 4MJWFSFE[FTUBOEKVJDF
mixture of white, brown, and wild rice) can be PGPSBOHF
found in natural foods stores. 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
UFBTQPPOTVHBS
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ =h[Wi[ W heWij_d] fWd 3PDL$PSOJTIHBNF
b_]^jbom_j^eb_l[e_b$ IFOT QPVOET
 FbWY[j^[jecWje[i_dWi^WbbemY[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^ FBDI QSFGFSBCMZGSFTI
bWh][ [dek]^ je ^ebZ j^[c _d ed[ bWo[h$ 7ZZ ^Wb\ j^[ CBZMFBWFT
ib_l[h[Z ehWd][ p[ij WdZ j^[ eb_l[ e_b$ I[Wied je jWij[ UFBTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$Ij_hjec_nm[bb"WdZifh_dab[m_j^ CVUUFS TPGUFOFE
j^[ik]Wh$ DVQHMVUFOGSFF
 H[cel[j^[XWYaXed[\hec[WY^]Wc[^[dXoib_Y_d] DIJDLFOCSPUI
j^hek]^ j^[ ie\j h_X Xed[i ed [_j^[h i_Z[ e\ _j$ BWo j^[ DVQUSJMPHZSJDFCMFOE
^[diedWYkjj_d]XeWhZ"ia_di_Z[Zemd$Ib_Z[Wi^Whf DVQESJFE;BOUF

fWh_d]ad_\[kdZ[hj^[h[cW_d_d]h_XYW][e\[WY^"WdZ DVSSBOUT
Ykj_j\h[[$FbWY[j^[dem#ÅWjj[d[Z^[di_dj^[heWij_d] DVQTMJDFEBMNPOET 

fWd"ia_di_Z[kf"WdZjkYaj^[XWob[Wl[ikdZ[hd[Wj^$ MJHIUMZUPBTUFE
Ic[Wh [WY^ ed[ m_j^ ' j[Wifeed Xkjj[h" WdZ i[Wied
b_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$
N  4FSWFT

OV_Q` 107
 FbWY[j^[^[diWdZj^[Z_i^e\jecWje[i_dj^[el[d$
HeWij j^[ ^[di kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ j^[ `k_Y[i hkd
Yb[Whfh_Yam_j^Wad_\[j_f_dj^[j^_]^c[Wjjej[ij"WdZ
j^[jecWje[iWh[ib_]^jbomh_dab[ZWdZj[dZ[h"WXekj*&
c_dkj[i$
 C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] j^[ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^" ehWd][ `k_Y["
WdZ )À* Ykf mWj[h je W Xe_b$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" YkhhWdji" WdZ
h[cW_d_d]ehWd][p[ij"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjec[Z_kc#bem"
Yel[h j^[ fWd" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j^[ h_Y[ _i j[dZ[h" )&
je )+ c_dkj[i$ ?\ W b_jjb[ b_gk_Z i^ekbZ h[cW_d" _dYh[Wi[
j^[ ^[Wj WdZ Xe_b ^WhZ \eh W c_dkj[ eh jme" ij_hh_d]"
kdj_b_j[lWfehWj[i$@kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]"ij_h_dj^[ib_Y[Z
WbcedZi$
 Je i[hl[" Ykj j^[ ^[di _d ^Wb\" Z_iYWhZ_d] j^[ XWo
b[Wl[i$ 7hhWd][ ed * ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h fbWj[i m_j^ j^[
jecWje[i"m^_Y^WYjWiWiWkY["WdZj^[f_bW\$

'&. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


\`a_VPU Ob_TR_` dVaU
_RQ dV[R `NbPR

50%": ± 4 '" 3.&% 04 5 3*$) 130% 6 $& 4 PVODFTHSPVOE


a flavorful, juicy red meat, similar in taste and PTUSJDI BUSPPN
texture to beef, but 90 percent fat-free, which UFNQFSBUVSF
makes it lower in cholesterol and calories than all FHHZPML
other poultry and meats, including venison. And MBSHFTIBMMPU ¹OFMZ
there’s no such thing as Angry Ostrich Disease. DIPQQFE
Like other very lean meats, it’s best cooked briefly. UFBTQPPODIPQQFE

Dusting the patties with rice flour helps the GSFTIUIZNFPS


browning process and gives a good surface tex- UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF
ture. Ground ostrich meat is available frozen from 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
upscale food markets such as Whole Foods. HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
 9hkcXb[ j^[ eijh_Y^ c[Wj _dje W Xemb$ 7ZZ j^[ []] 8IJUFSJDFºPVS GPS
oeba" i^Wbbej" WdZ j^oc[$ I[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ EVTUJOH
Ki_d]oekh^WdZi"c_nb_]^jboXkjj^ehek]^bo$I^Wf[_dje UBCMFTQPPOCSBOEZ
jmeelWbfWjj_[i"[WY^)À*_dY^j^_Ya$ DVQSFEXJOF

 >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W ^[Wlo ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc 'SFTIUIZNFTQSJHT 
^[Wj$ :kij j^[ fWjj_[i m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh$ 8hemd ed Xej^ PQUJPOBM
i_Z[i" jkhd_d] j^[c jm_Y[ je a[[f j^[ `k_Y[i Åem_d]"
kdj_bc[Z_kchWh["WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjemWhc[Z N  4FSWFT
fbWj[i$7ZZj^[XhWdZojej^[fWdWdZb[j_ji_ppb[\ehW
\[mi[YedZi"j^[dWZZj^[m_d[$B[jXkXXb[kdj_bh[ZkY[Z
je*jWXb[ifeedie\b_gk_Z"ij_hh_d]kfWdoXhemd[ZX_ji
_dj^[fWd"(je)c_dkj[i"WdZifeedWhekdZj^[fWjj_[i$
=Whd_i^m_j^j^oc[ifh_]i"_\ki_d]$

OV_Q` 109
 c[WjWdZ
i[W\eeZ
53*&%  " /% 5 36&$0.'035'00%4-*, &  #3 " *4&% short ribs and
meat loaf don’t require much tweaking to make them gluten-free, and no one
ever notices the difference if a rack of lamb with a herbed crumb crust is made
with rice flour bread crumbs rather than the wheat-bread kind. Fish dishes,
too, are easy. In fact, simple panfried fish fillets taste better than usual when
dusted with white rice
flour before sautéing. As
it contains no gluten, the
flour doesn’t become
gluey, and it imparts a
crisper surface texture.
Quinoa goes especially
well with fish and seafood,
as does rice.

'''
]\_X PU\]` N[Q ONXRQ ]\YR[aN
dVaU ]R]]R_`

*/  5)*4  & " 4 :  4611&3  dish, seared bone- UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE


less pork chops finish cooking in the oven on a CVUUFS NFMUFE
bed of buttery, herb-scented polenta. If you like, SPMM UPPVODFT

you can substitute fresh rosemary for oregano, or QSFDPPLFEQPMFOUB 
add a garnish of torn-up fresh basil leaves. TMJDFEJODIUIJDL
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$ MBSHFSFECFMMQFQQFS 
 Fekh(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[h_djeWd.s'&#_dY^ CSPJMFE QFFMFE BOE
XWa_d]Z_i^$7hhWd][j^[feb[djWib_Y[i_d_j"el[hbWff_d] SPVHIMZDIPQQFE PS
ib_]^jbo"_dj^h[[hemi$I[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h" UIFFRVJWBMFOUGSPNB
WdZiYWjj[hj^[Y^eff[ZX[bbf[ff[hWdZeh[]Wdeedjef$ KBS
:h_ppb[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediXkjj[h$Jefm_j^ UFBTQPPODIPQQFE
j^[FWhc[iWd$8Wa[\ehWXekj)&c_dkj[ikdj_bXkXXb_d] GSFTIPSFHBOPPS
WdZijWhj_d]jeXhemd$ UFBTQPPOESJFE

 M^[dj^[feb[djW^WiXWa[Z\eh'+c_dkj[i"^[Wjj^[ PSFHBOP


eb_l[ e_b _d W ^[Wlo ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#^_]^ ^[Wj kdj_b UPUBCMFTQPPOT
_ji^_cc[hi$FWjj^[Y^efiZhom_j^fWf[hjem[bi"WdZ HSBUFE1BSNJHJBOP
i[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$8hemdedXej^i_Z[i" 3FHHJBOP
+ c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ j^[ UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
feb[djW \hec j^[ el[d" PMJWFPJM
WdZ WhhWd][ j^[ Y^efi CPOFMFTTQPSLDIPQT 
ed jef$ 7ZZ j^[ m_d[ je UPPVODFTFBDI 
j^[ia_bb[jWdZb[jXkXXb[" JODIUIJDL
iYhWf_d]kfj^[Xhemd[Z DVQESZXIJUFXJOF

X_ji ed j^[ Xejjec"


WdZ h[ZkY[ Xo ^Wb\" N  4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 113


)& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z el[h [WY^ Y^ef$
H[jkhdj^[XWa_d]Z_i^jej^[el[dWdZYedj_dk[XWa_d]
\eh,c_dkj[ikdj_bj^[Y^efiWh[`kijYeea[Zj^hek]^$
9eea[Zj^_imWo"m_j^`kijW^_dje\f_dam_j^_d"j^[om_bb
X[`k_YoWdZj[dZ[h$

''* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


R[ T YV`U ]\_X `Nb`NTR ]NaaVR`

5 )*4  .*9 5 63&  $0/ 5" */4  3*$&  flour MBSHFFHH


bread crumbs, rather than the usual wheat rusk, (SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO
to impart the characteristic smooth texture. Mak- UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

ing your own additive-free sausage mixture us- OVUNFH


ing meat from a reputable butcher means that you UFBTQPPOESJFETBHF
control the freshness, the fat content, and the MFBWFT DSVNCMFE
all-important seasonings. UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
UFBTQPPOGSFTIMZ

HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS
 8h[Wa j^[ []] _dje W Xemb" WdZ X[Wj b_]^jbo$ 7ZZ j^[ DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF
b[ced p[ij ]hWj[ el[h j^[ Xemb _\ feii_Xb[" je kj_b_p[ 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT
j^[Äd[ifhWoe\b[cede_b"dkjc[]"iW]["iWbj"f[ff[h" QBHF

WdZXh[WZYhkcXi$9hkcXb[j^[fehaWdZl[Wb_djej^[ QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL
c_njkh[" WdZ Xb[dZ je W iceej^ fWij[$ Ce_ij[d oekh TIPVMEFS
^WdZim_j^mWj[hWdZ\ehc_djei_n)À*#_dY^#j^_YafWjj_[i$ QPVOEHSPVOEWFBM

 >[Wjj^[e_b_dWbWh]["dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc# UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM


bem ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ fWjj_[i" WdZ Yeea .BTIFEQPUBUPFT
kdj_bXhemdedXej^i_Z[iWdZYeea[Zj^hek]^"WXekj. .VTUBSE
c_dkj[i$I[hl[m_j^cWi^[ZfejWje[iWdZckijWhZ$
N  . BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ
 QPVOETTFSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 115


ZRNa Y\NS dVaU ^bV[\N

UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO 5)*4  3& 80 3,&%  $- " 44*$  *4  good hot or


PMJWFPJM cold, when it makes the best sandwiches teamed
POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE with homemade crusty rice flour bread. Lacking
DFMFSZSJC EFTUSJOHFE a 9 s 5-inch loaf pan, use an 8 s 4-inch standard
BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE pan and freeze the extra cup of meat mixture for
DVQ¹OFMZDIPQQFE
meatballs or hamburgers.
GSFTIQBSTMFZTUBMLT
UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF
BODIPWZ¹MMFUT DBOOFE
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ =h[Wi[ W / s +#_dY^ beW\
JOPMJWFPJM ESBJOFE
DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF fWd"fh[\[hWXbo[Whj^[dmWh[eh^[Wjfhee\]bWii$
'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT  >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj
QBHF
kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed"Y[b[ho"WdZfWhib[oijWbai"
DVQRVJOPBºBLFT WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdejXhemd[Z"+c_dkj[i$7ZZ
DVQESZXIJUFXJOFPS j^[ j^oc[ WdZ j^[ WdY^el_[i" cWi^_d] j^[c kdj_b j^[o
HMVUFOGSFFCFFGCSPUI Z_iiebl[$J^[WdY^el_[im_bbYedjh_Xkj[h_Y^d[ii"Xkjm_bb
 QPVOETHSPVOECFFG
 dej_cfWhjW¹Äi^oºjWij[$B[jYeebjebka[mWhc$
DIVDL  9ecX_d[j^[Xh[WZYhkcXiWdZgk_deWÅWa[i_dWXemb"
QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL
WdZWZZj^[m_d[$B[jijWdZkdj_bWXiehX[Z"+c_dkj[i$
QPVOEHSPVOEWFBM
9hkcXb[j^[X[[\"feha"WdZl[Wb_djej^[Xemb"Xb[dZ_d]
MBSHFFHHT j^[c _dje j^[ Xh[WZ YhkcX·gk_deW c_njkh[ m_j^ oekh
DVQQJTUBDIJPOVUT 
^WdZi$7ZZj^[[]]i"ed_edc_njkh["f_ijWY^_ei"_\ki_d]"
PQUJPOBM iWbj"WdZXbWYaf[ff[hjejWij["WdZc_nm[bb$JhWdi\[hj^[
 UFBTQPPOT¹OFTFB

c_njkh[jej^[beW\fWd$Iceej^j^[ikh\WY["cekdZ_d]
TBMU
_j kf ib_]^jbo _d j^[ Y[dj[h$ 8Wa[" kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[
'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
_dj[hdWb j[cf[hWjkh[ h[WY^[i ',+–< ed Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ
QFQQFS
c[Wjj^[hcec[j[h"'je''À*^ekhi$Fekhe\\j^[\Wj"WdZ
N  4FSWFT
b[jh[ij_dj^[fWd\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$

'', j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_NPX \S YNZO dVaU UR_ORQ
P_ bZO P_ b`a

* 5 ± 4 & " 4 : 50 0 3$)& 4 5 3 "5 & this special- UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB


occasion dish. All you have to do at the last min- WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
ute is pop the prepared racks in a hot oven for 18 SBDLTPGMBNC UP
minutes. Unless you have an exceptional butcher, SJCTFBDI USJNNFE
you will probably have to finish trimming the BOEGSFODIFE BMMGBU
lamb yourself: using a sharp paring knife, shave SFNPWFE
off every last vestige of fat, leaving just the bones 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
with a nubbin of tender meat at the base. Be sure HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
to have Rice Flour Bread Crumbs (page 134) on UBCMFTQPPOXIPMF
hand for the crumb crust. HSBJO%JKPONVTUBSE
HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE
UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF
 >[Wj ( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF
el[h c[Z_kc#^_]^ ^[Wj$ I[Wh j^[ bWcX ed Xej^ i_Z[i 
PSUFBTQPPO
kdj_bd_Y[boXhemd[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[" ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU
WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ CMFOE
DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF

'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT
QBHF

UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ
DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ

N  4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 117


 8b[dZj^[ckijWhZm_j^(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b"
WdZi[jWi_Z[$
 ?d W icWbb ia_bb[j" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi
eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[]Whb_YWdZ>[hX[i
Z[Fhel[dY[8b[dZ"Yeea\eh'&i[YedZi"WdZij_h_dj^[
Xh[WZYhkcXi$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"i[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^
iWbjWdZf[ff[h"WdZij_h_dj^[fWhib[o$B[jYeeb$
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&–<$ FbWY[ j^[ bWcX hWYai _d
W i^Wbbem heWij_d] fWd" Ykhl[Z i_Z[ kf WdZ Xed[ j_fi
Zemd$Ifh[WZj^[c[Wjm_j^j^[ckijWhZc_njkh["WdZ
Yel[h[l[dbom_j^j^[YhkcXi$HeWijkdj_bc[Z_kchWh[
WdZ Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h h[]_ij[hi ')+–<"
WXekj'.c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[hWYaijeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[h"
j[dj beei[bo m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ b[j h[ij \eh - je '&
c_dkj[i$9kjX[jm[[dj^[h_XXed[ijei[hl["WdZifeed
j^[`k_Y[iel[hj^[c[Wj$

''. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


O_NV`RQ `U\_a _VO` dVaU
`b[ Q _VRQ a\ZNa\R`

5)*4  *4  46 $$ 6-&/ 5  4 "5 *4' : */(  com- QPVOETCFFGTIPSU


fort food for a winter evening. Most recipes sug- SJCT DVUJOUPJODI
gest dredging short ribs with flour before brown- DIVOLT
ing, which makes an awful mess. Instead, stir 'JOFTFBTBMUBOE
brown rice flour into the softened onions. GSFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
Creamy polenta or mashed potatoes are a must QFQQFS
here. UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
MBSHFPOJPO ¹OFMZ
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+–<$FWjj^[h_XiZhom_j^fWf[h DIPQQFE
jem[bi"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE
 >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj_dWbWh]["^[Wlo DJOOBNPO
iWkjƒfWdkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZ^Wb\j^[h_Xi"WdZiWkjƒ UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO
kdj_bj^[oX[Yec[Wh_Y^"ZWhaXhemd"WXekj'(c_dkj[i$ SJDFºPVS
JhWdi\[hjeW^[WloYWii[heb["fh[\[hWXbo[dWc[b[ZYWij DVQGSFTIMZTRVFF[FE
_hed$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]h_Xi$Fekhe\\ceije\j^[ PSBOHFKVJDF
\Wj_dj^[fWd"b[Wl_d]`kijWÄbc$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZYeea TUSJQTPSBOHF[FTU 
kdj_bie\j[d[Z"+c_dkj[i$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[Y_ddWcedWdZ sJODI
h_Y[Åekh"WdZij_hm[bb$7ZZj^[ehWd][`k_Y["iYhWf_d]kf DVQTHMVUFOGSFFCFFG
Wbbj^[Xhemd[ZX_ji_dj^[fWd"j^[dWZZj^[ehWd][p[ij CSPUI
WdZXhej^$Fekhel[hj^[h_Xi$9el[hj^[YWii[heb["WdZ TVOESJFEUPNBUPFT
XWa[\eh(^ekhi$B[jYeebWdZh[\h_][hWj[el[hd_]^j$ JOPJM ESBJOFE DVUJO
 B_\je\\Yed][Wb[Z\WjWdZZ_iYWhZ$7ZZj^[ikd#Zh_[Z IBMG
jecWje[i" WdZ ^[Wj j^[ h_Xi ed jef e\ j^[ ijel[ el[h DVQTGSP[FOQFUJUF
c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] 'À( Ykf mWj[h je W QFBT UIBXFE
Xe_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd$ 7ZZ W f_dY^ e\ iWbj WdZ j^[ UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI 
f[Wi"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"(c_dkj[i$:hW_d$ PQUJPOBM

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 119


)PUDSFBNZQPMFOUBPS  :_l_Z[j^[h_XiWced]^[Wj[ZfbWj[i$JWij[j^[iWkY[
NBTIFEQPUBUPFT \ehi[Wied_d]$J^[h[i^ekbZX[WXekj+Ykfi$?\d[Y[iiWho"
WZZWb_jjb[mWj[hehXe_b^WhZjeh[ZkY[_j$7bj[hdWj_l[bo"
N  4FSWFTUP j^_Ya[dXoij_hh_d]_dj^[efj_edWbYehdijWhY^c_n[Zm_j^
'jWXb[ifeedYebZmWj[h"WdZb[jj^[iWkY[XkXXb[kdj_b
_j j^_Ya[di WdZ Yb[Whi" (& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ Ifeed j^[
iWkY[el[hj^[h_Xi"WdZ]Whd_i^m_j^j^[f[Wi$I[hl[m_j^
feb[djWehcWi^[ZfejWje[i$

'(& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


O_NV`RQ \eaNVY dVaU Zb`U_\\Z`

"  (3& "5  $)0*$&  '03  casual entertaining, UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB


succulent oxtail doesn’t require carving or fuss- WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
ing over at the last minute, and doesn’t spoil if the QPVOETPYUBJM TMJDFE
meal has to wait. Cook it a day ahead, so you can JODIFTUIJDL
remove the fat easily, and serve with mashed po- POJPO DIPQQFE
tatoes for absorbing the rich sauce. DBSSPU EJDFE
HBSMJDDMPWFT DIPQQFE
;FTUPGPSBOHF TMJWFSFE
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$=h[Wi[WheWij_d]fWdm_j^ TQSJHTGSFTIUIZNF
'jWXb[ifeede\j^[eb_l[e_b"WdZWhhWd][j^[enjW_bf_[Y[i UBCMFTQPPOUPNBUP
_d _j _d W i_d]b[ bWo[h" ib_]^jbo i[fWhWj[Z$ HeWij" jkhd_d] QBTUF
edY["kdj_bm[bbXhemd[Z"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$  DVQTSFEXJOF


 >[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedieb_l[e_b_dWbWh][" UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF


^[Wlofejel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZiWkjƒ CFFGTUPDL
kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Yebeh[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
YWhhej" ]Whb_Y" ehWd][ p[ij" j^oc[" jecWje fWij[" WdZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
m_d[$8h_d]jeWi_cc[h$Ki_d]jed]i"WZZj^[enjW_bje UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE
j^[fej$FbWY[j^[heWij_d]fWdel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj"WdZ CVUUFS
Z[]bWp[m_j^j^[X[[\ijeYa"iYhWf_d]kfj^[Xhemd[Z QPVOEXIJUF

X_jim_j^WmeeZ[difeed$7ZZjej^[fej"WdZi[Wied NVTISPPNT UIJDLMZ


jejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$9el[hWdZi_cc[h][djbo TMJDFE
kdj_bj^[c[Wj_il[hoj[dZ[hWdZYec[iWmWo\hecj^[ DMPWFTHBSMJD NJODFE
Xed[i [Wi_bo" WZZ_d] ceh[ ijeYa Wi d[[Z[Z" )'À( je * UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI
^ekhi$B[jYeeb"j^[dh[\h_][hWj[el[hd_]^j$ UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
 H[cel[j^[c[Wj\hecj^[h[\h_][hWjeh"b_\je\\j^[bWo[h QBSTMFZ
e\Yed][Wb[Z\Wj"WdZZ_iYWhZ_j$H[^[Wjj^[enjW_b][djbo"
Xh_d]_d] _j je W bem Xe_b$ Jho W f_[Y[ e\ c[Wj je cWa[ N  4FSWFTUP

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 121


ikh[ _j _i mWhc[Z j^hek]^$ 8b[dZ j^[ YehdijWhY^ m_j^
( jWXb[ifeedi mWj[h" ij_h _dje j^[ c[Wj" WdZ Yedj_dk[
Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[iWkY[j^_Ya[diWdZYb[Whi"(&i[YedZi
ehb[ii$
 C[bjj^[Xkjj[hel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j\eWci$7ZZ
j^[cki^heeciWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZiWkjƒkdj_b]bWiio#beea_d]
WdZYeea[Zj^hek]^"+c_dkj[i$I[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbj
WdZf[ff[h$
 :_l_Z[ j^[ enjW_b WdZ iWkY[ Wced] ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h
fbWj[i" jef m_j^ j^[ cki^heeci" WdZ ifh_dab[ m_j^
fWhib[o$I[hl[m_j^cWi^[ZfejWje[i$

'(( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


[ba P _ b`aRQ `NYZ\[ dVaU
Zb`aN_Q P_RNZ `NbPR

$)011&%  /6 5 4  3 "5 )&3  5 ) " /  crisp TBMNPO¹MMFUT BCPVU


bread crumbs offer flavor as well as texture to PVODFTFBDI
baked salmon fillets. Small specialty potatoes UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
such as fingerlings or Dutch Gold, boiled in their WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
jackets, make a good accompaniment and are en- UBCMFTQPPOT%JKPO
hanced by the voluptuous sauce. NVTUBSE
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE
QFDBOT
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$
 B_d[ W i^Wbbem XWa_d] fWd m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ mus t ard and
bWo j^[ iWbced Äbb[ji ed _j" ia_d i_Z[ Zemd" Wj b[Wij caper s auce
' _dY^ WfWhj$ 8b[dZ j^[ eb_l[ e_b WdZ ckijWhZ je][j^[h" DVQIFBWZDSFBN

WdZifh[WZed[#gkWhj[hedjefe\[WY^fehj_ed$Jefm_j^ UBCMFTQPPO%JKPO
j^[ Y^eff[Z f[YWdi$ 8Wa[ kdj_b `kij Yeea[Z j^hek]^" NVTUBSE
WXekj'&c_dkj[i$ UBCMFTQPPOESBJOFE
 M^_b[ j^[ iWbced XWa[i" cWa[ j^[ iWkY[0 M^_f j^[ DBQFST SJOTFE
Yh[Wckdj_b_jijWhjijeij_\\[d"j^[dm^_f_dj^[ckijWhZ$ UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ
Ij_h_dj^[YWf[hiWdZfWhib[o$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbj DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ
WdZf[ff[h$ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ
 JhWdi\[h j^[ iWbced HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS
je ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h fbWj[i$
=Whd_i^[WY^Äbb[jm_j^W N  4FSWFT

X_]Zebbefe\j^[iWkY[$

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 123


UNYVOba a\ZNa\ N[Q PN]R_ T_NaV[
dVaU ^bV[\N

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB 5 )*4  2 6*$, -:  . " %&  4611&3  dish uses


WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QMVT any firm white fish fillets such as cod, orange
FYUSBGPSCBLJOHEJTI roughy, or snapper.
DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF

'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT
QBHF
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ =h[Wi[ Wd . s '&#_dY^
IBMJCVUTUFBLT BCPVU XWa_d]Z_i^m_j^eb_l[e_b$
PVODFTFBDI  >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWicWbbia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ ^[Wj"WZZj^[Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZij_hkdj_bm[bbYeWj[Z")&
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS i[YedZi$I[jWi_Z[$
UFBTQPPOGFOOFM  7hhWd][j^[Äi^_dj^[XWa_d]Z_i^"WdZi[Wiedm_j^
TFFET DSVTIFE iWbj" f[ff[h" WdZ j^[ \[dd[b i[[Zi$ Jef m_j^ j^[ Z_Y[Z
MBSHFDBO PVODFT
 jecWje[i" YWf[hi" WdZ h[i[hl[Z Xh[WZ YhkcXi$ :h_ppb[
EJDFEUPNBUPFT  m_j^Wb_jjb[ceh[eb_l[e_b$8Wa[kdj_bj^[Äi^_iefWgk[
ESBJOFE KVJDFSFTFSWFE WdZÅWa[i[Wi_bo"(&c_dkj[i$
UBCMFTQPPOTESBJOFE  C[Wdm^_b["h_di[j^[gk_deW$9ecX_d[j^[h[i[hl[Z
DBQFST SJOTFE jecWje`k_Y[m_j^[dek]^mWj[hjecWa[)Ykfi$8h_d]je
 DVQTZFMMPXRVJOPB
 WXe_b"WdZij_h_dj^[gk_deWm_j^'À(j[WifeediWbj$9el[h"
h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[hWdZj^[
N  4FSWFT b_gk_Z[lWfehWj[i"'+c_dkj[i$I[hl[m_j^j^[Äi^$

'(* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


UNYVOba V[ S\VY dVaU
O_\d[ ON`ZNaV _VPR

)&3&± 4  "  '0 0-130 0'  8":  to cook fish, DVQCSPXOCBTNBUJ

and there’s no pan to wash afterward. Aromatic SJDF


brown basmati rice complements the flavors and UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

textures of the halibut perfectly. The fish takes UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE


only 10 minutes to cook, so start the rice first. The CVUUFS
recipe can be doubled with ease, but don’t try UBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE
baking more than four halibut packages at once BMNPOET
in the average home oven. The temperature will UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO
drop too much under the onslaught and throw the PMJWFPJM
timing off. TNBMMPOJPO UIJOMZ
TMJDFE
UFBTQPPOTTMJWFSFE
 H_di[ j^[ h_Y[" WdZ ZhW_d$ 8h_d] ''À( Ykfi mWj[h je PSBOHF[FTU
W Xe_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd" WdZ WZZ j^[ iWbj WdZ h_Y[$ UBCMFTQPPOTNFEJVN
9el[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[h_Y[ ESZTIFSSZ
_ij[dZ[h"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$<bk\\m_j^W\eha"Yel[h"WdZ IBMJCVUTUFBLT BCPVU
b[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i$>[Wjj^[Xkjj[h_dWicWbbia_bb[j PVODFTFBDI
el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj" WZZ j^[ ib_Y[Z WbcedZi" WdZ 4BMUBOEGSFTIMZHSPVOE
Yeeakdj_b]ebZ[d"'je(c_dkj[i$Ij_h_djej^[h_Y[m^[d XIJUFQFQQFS
h[WZojei[hl[$ -BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH 
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$>[WjWXWa_d]i^[[jWjj^[ GSFTIMZHSBUFE
iWc[j_c[$ $IPQQFEQBSTMFZ
 M^_b[j^[h_Y[Yeeai"fh[fWh[j^[Äi^fWYaW][i0>[Wj
j^[eb_l[e_b_dWicWbbia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[WjWdZiWkjƒ
j^[ ed_ed kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ N  4FSWFT
^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[ehWd][p[ijWdZi^[hho$

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 125


 BWo jme '( s ',#_dY^ i^[[ji e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b ed W
mehaikh\WY[WdZifeeded[#gkWhj[he\j^[ed_edc_njkh[
ed[WY^i^[[j"WhhWd]_d]_je\\#Y[dj[h$FbWY[j^[^Wb_Xkj
edjef"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[hjejWij[$Ifh_dab[
m_j^j^[dkjc[]"WdZifh[WZm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]ed_ed
c_njkh[$ <ebZ j^[ \e_b el[h j^[ Äi^ b_a[ Ybei_d] W Xeea"
j^[dYh_cfj^[ef[d[Z][ij_]^jboje][j^[hje\ehcjme
ÅWj"h[YjWd]kbWhfWYaW][i$
 FbWY[ j^[ ^Wb_Xkj fWYaW][i ed j^[ ^ej XWa_d] i^[[j"
WdZXWa[\eh'&c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeZ_dd[hfbWj[i"WdZ
ib_jef[dWbed]j^[kdYh_cf[Zi_Z[$?\j^[Äbb[jiWh[[njhW
j^_Ya WdZ j^[ Äi^ Ze[i dej ÅWa[ [Wi_bo" h[jkhd ef[d[Z
fWYaW][ijej^[el[d\ehW\[mceh[c_dkj[i$FkbbWmWo
j^[ \e_b" b[Wl_d] j^[ ^Wb_Xkj WdZ iWkY[ ed j^[ fbWj[i$
Ifeedj^[h_Y[Wbed]i_Z["WdZiYWjj[hfWhib[oedjef$

'(, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


TN_YVP `U_VZ] dVaU `NSS _\[ _VPR

& 7&/  '30;&/  4)3*.1 "3& delicious when QPVOETTIFMMFEBOE


cooked this way. Start cooking the rice while the EFWFJOFEMBSHFTISJNQ 
shrimp marinate. UIBXFEJGGSP[FO
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
 7hhWd][ j^[ i^h_cf _d W i^Wbbem XWa_d] Z_i^ bWh][ UBCMFTQPPOMFNPO
[dek]^je^ebZj^[c_ded[bWo[hehki[jmeZ_i^[i$ KVJDF
Jefm_j^*jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b"j^[b[ced`k_Y[" HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE
]Whb_Y" fWhib[o" jWhhW]ed" 'À( j[Wifeed e\ j^[ iWbj" WdZ W UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ
][d[heki]h_dZ_d]e\f[ff[h$Jkhdj^[cWbbel[hjeYeWj DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ
m[bb"WdZb[jijWdZWjheecj[cf[hWjkh[\eh(&c_dkj[i$ UFBTQPPOESJFE
 C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[ UBSSBHPO DSVNCMFE
e_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj kdj_b _j  UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU


i^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_edWdZYeea"ij_hh_d]\h[gk[djbo" 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL
kdj_b_jie\j[diWdZjkhdijhWdibkY[dj"WXekj+c_dkj[i$ QFQQFS
7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" ij_hh_d] m[bb je YeWj j^[ ]hW_di$ 7ZZ j^[ NFEJVNPOJPO ¹OFMZ
iW\\hedc_njkh["()À*Ykfi^ejmWj[h"WdZj^[h[cW_d_d] DIPQQFE
)À* j[Wifeed iWbj" WdZ Xh_d] je W Xe_b$ 9el[h j^[ fWd"  DVQTMPOHHSBJO


h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j[dZ[h" '- XIJUFSJDF
c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj" UFBTQPPOTBGGSPO

Åk\\m_j^W\eha"WdZfWhj_WbboYel[h UISFBET TUFFQFEJO


j^[fWdkdj_bj^[i^h_cfWh[h[WZo$ UBCMFTQPPOIPUXBUFS
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&–<$
8Wa[j^[i^h_cfkdj_befWgk[WdZ N  4FSWFT
Yeea[Zj^hek]^"'&c_dkj[i$I[hl[
m_j^j^[h_Y["ifeed_d]j^[ÅWleh\kb
`k_Y[iedjef$

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q 127


SVcR Z V[baR a_\ba dVaU
P_V`]f PN]R_ `NbPR

XIPMFCPOFEUSPVU  8 )&/  # 0/&%  530 6 5  " 3&  spread out flat


UPPVODFTFBDI and broiled, skin side up to protect the tender
UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB flesh, they cook to a turn in just 5 minutes. As one
WJSHJOPMJWFPJM whole butterflied trout covers an entire dinner
'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ plate, serve with homemade crusty rice flour
HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS bread and have a salad or green vegetable as a
UBCMFTQPPOTTPGU separate course.
XIJUF3JDF'MPVS#SFBE
$SVNCT QBHF

UBCMFTQPPOTDBQFST   H[cel[j^[hWYae\j^[Xhe_b[hfWdWdZYel[h_jm_j^


SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE Wbkc_dkc\e_b$
UBCMFTQPPOTMFNPO  Fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$
KVJDF  H_di[j^[jhekjWdZfWjZho$FbWY[edj^[\e_b#mhWff[Z
UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE Xhe_b[hhWYa"ifh[WZekjÅWjm_j^j^[Å[i^i_Z[kf$8hki^
QBSTMFZ m_j^'jWXb[ifeede\j^[eb_l[e_b"i[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZ
f[ff[h"WdZj^[djkhdj^[jhekjia_di_Z[kf$8he_bkdj_b
Yeea[Zj^hek]^j^[ia_dm_bbXbWYa[dWdZXb_ij[h"Xkjm_bb
N  4FSWFT a[[fj^[Äi^ce_ij"WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hje^[Wj[Z
Z_dd[hfbWj[i"fbWY_d]j^[cia_di_Z[Zemd$
 C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ) jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[
e_b _d W icWbb ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[
Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZiWkjƒkdj_b]ebZ[dXhemdWdZYh_ifo"
(& i[YedZi$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj" ij_h _d j^[ YWf[hi
WdZb[ced`k_Y["WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$
Ifeed ^Wb\ j^[ c_njkh[ el[h [WY^ jhekj$ IYWjj[h j^[
Y^eff[ZfWhib[oedjef$

'(. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


Xh[WZi
%& 7&-01*/( & " 4 : 3&$*1&4 '03 " 3 5 *4 " / 4 5 : - & -0"7 & 4 using
gluten-free flours was a challenge, but a rewarding one. Technically, the recipes
that follow are all batter breads: the dough is mixed rather than kneaded, and
all but one are raised with baking powder, not yeast. This means you can
produce an aromatic, crusty loaf with a light, elastic crumb in about 30 minutes,
even if you’ve never baked a loaf of bread in your life.
Based on the hearth breads of old, most of these loaves are quite small and
relatively low, because gluten-free flours don’t form the weblike, airy structure
that characterizes bread made with milled wheat and yeast. But what they lack
in size they make up for in flavor, texture, and nutrition. Xanthan gum, a white
powder derived from corn syrup, helps to promote a springy texture and retain
moisture. True, these preservative-free breads don’t keep (neither do baguettes
from a French bakery), but they freeze well.

'(/
^bVPX O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ SYNaO_RNQ

5 ) * 4  . & - - 0 8  5 " 4 5 * / (  7 & 3 4 "5 * - & DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 

8 ) 0 - & (3 " */  bread is perfect with cheese QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS


or with butter and jam for breakfast. Small, GPSNJOHMPBWFT
round, and crusty, like old-fashioned hearth DVQBMNPOET

breads, these loaves can be sliced across or split DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

and quartered for sandwiches. UBCMFTQPPOTºBYNFBM


UFBTQPPOBOJTFTFFET

UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j UFBTQPPOCBLJOH


m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ QPXEFS
WbcedZi_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$ UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
7ZZj^[jWf_eYWijWhY^"ÅWnc[Wb"Wd_i[i[[Zi"iWbj"XWa_d] UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN
femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"WdZnWdj^Wd]kc"WdZfheY[iije DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML

c_n$ ZPHVSU
 9ecX_d[j^[oe]khj"YWdebWe_b"[]]"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM
_dWXemb$7ZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djijej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[dji MBSHFFHH
Wbb Wj edY[" WdZ fheY[ii je \ehc W Åk\\o#beea_d]" ij_Yao
XWjj[h"WXekj)&i[YedZi$IYeef_d]ekjj^[XWjj[hm_j^ N  .BLFTGMBUCSFBET

WhkXX[hifWjkbW"\ehcjme[gkWbcekdZiedj^[XWa_d]
i^[[j"+_dY^[iWfWhj$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^h_Y[Åekh"WdZ
fWj[WY^ed[][djbo_djeW,#_dY^Z_ia$<ehcWhekdZ[Z
[Z][ Xo Z_ff_d] oekh Äd][hi _d h_Y[ Åekh WdZ dkZ]_d]
j^[i_Z[ie\j^[Zek]^$Ki_d]Wbed]ad_\[XbWZ["YkjW
Z_W]edWb ]h_Z fWjj[hd ed jef e\ [WY^ ÅWjXh[WZ" cWa_d]
j^h[[ 'À*#_dY^#Z[[f Ykji [WY^ mWo$ 8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d
XhemdWdZYhkijo"WXekj(+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beWl[i
jeWm_h[hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$

O_RNQ` 131
-=N?DIAJP-=LAN3ANOQO4=T-=LAN

B_d_d] W XWa_d] i^[[j m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h ^[bfi je


fh[l[dj el[hXhemd_d] ed j^[ kdZ[hi_Z[ e\ Xh[WZi WdZ
Yeea_[i1XWa[Z_j[ciZed¼jij_Yaje_j"_j¼ih[kiWXb[m_j^_d
h[Wied"WdZ_jiWl[iWbeje\mWi^_d]kf$FWhY^c[dj_i
WlW_bWXb[ _d dWjkhWb \eeZi ijeh[i" a_jY^[dmWh[ i^efi"
WdZiec[ikf[hcWha[ji$MWnfWf[h_idejWikXij_jkj[$
8Wi_YWbbo j_iik[ fWf[h j^Wj¼i X[[d YeWj[Z m_j^ fWhW\Äd
mWnedXej^i_Z[i"mWnfWf[hmWieh_]_dWbbo_dl[dj[Z\eh
mhWff_d]\eeZij^_dae\iWdZm_Y^fWYa[ji_dj^[ZWoi
X[\eh[fbWij_YXW]iWdZmWid[l[hc[Wdj\ehXWa_d]$J^[
mWnc[bji$

')( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


^bVPX dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ SYNaO_RNQ

- *, &  *5 4  8 )0-& ( 3 " */  5 8 */  on page DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS 

131, this low, round loaf has a hundred uses, in- QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS
cluding pizza, melba toast, croutons, and—most GPSNJOHMPBWFT
important—bread crumbs. These are more valu- DVQCMBODIFE 

able than gold in the wheat-free kitchen for bread- TMJWFSFEBMNPOET


ing, topping gratins, and making stuffings. This DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

loaf is very good sliced and toasted under a broiler UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

(don’t share the family toaster if it’s ever used for UFBTQPPOCBLJOH
wheat products). The biscotti-shaped slices are QPXEFS
marvelous for dipping in soft-boiled eggs. UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN
UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML

m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ ZPHVSU


WbcedZi_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$ MBSHFFHH
7ZZj^[jWf_eYWijWhY^"iWbj"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"
WdZnWdj^Wd]kc"WdZfheY[iijec_n$
N  .BLFTGMBUCSFBET

O_RNQ` 133
 9ecX_d[j^[YWdebWe_b"oe]khj"[]]"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h$
7ZZ j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji je j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji Wbb Wj
edY["WdZfheY[iije\ehcWÅk\\o#beea_d]"ij_YaoXWjj[h"
WXekj(&i[YedZi$IYeef_d]ekjj^[XWjj[hm_j^WhkXX[h
ifWjkbW"\ehcjme[gkWbcekdZiedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j"+
_dY^[iWfWhj$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^h_Y[Åekh"WdZfWj[WY^
ed[][djbo_djeW,#_dY^Z_ia$<ehcWhekdZ[Z[Z][Xo
Z_ff_d]oekhÄd][hi_dh_Y[ÅekhWdZdkZ]_d]j^[i_Z[i
e\j^[Zek]^$IbWi^j^[jefe\[WY^ÅWjXh[WZ\heci_Z[
je i_Z[" \ehc_d] W Yheii$ 8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ
Yhkijo" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[h j^[ beWl[i je W m_h[
hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$

/E?A#HKQNNA=@ NQI>O

8Wa[j^[Xh[WZWiWXel["WdZb[Wl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh[
el[hd_]^j$9kje\\j^[YhkijiWdZh[i[hl[$:_Y[j^[ie\j
_dj[h_eh" jhWdi\[h je W \eeZ fheY[iieh" WdZ fheY[ii je
\ehcie\j"YeWhi[YhkcXi$FheY[iij^[Yhkijii[fWhWj[bo
je cWa[ Äd[ Zho YhkcXi" m^_Y^ Wh[ _Z[Wb \eh Xh[WZ_d]$
Ijeh[Xej^jof[i"_dfbWij_YXW]i"_dj^[\h[[p[h$

')* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_VPR SY\b_ R[ T YV`U ZbSSV[`

*  4641&$ 5  5) "5  3&(6- " 3  English muf- 6OTBMUFECVUUFS


fins owe much of their popularity to the amount of DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS 

butter melting on their toasted surfaces; on their QMVTFYUSBGPSNVG¹O


own, they’re far from interesting. These gluten- SJOHTBOEHSJEEMF
free English muffins, on the other hand, are worth DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

nibbling even when unadorned. Suitably thick UFBTQPPOTVHBS


but light and airy (the batter is rich with eggs), UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
they have the requisite floury outer surface and 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
holey interior, take only 10 minutes to bake, and MBSHFFHHT
toast beautifully. To make them, you’ll need muf- UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM
fin rings, or simply use recycled cat-food cans DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML

(the 61 ⁄2-ounce size) with the tops and bottoms re- ZPHVSU
moved. The recipe is easy to double.

 8kjj[h j^[ _di_Z[i e\ Äl[ )'À(#_dY^ ck\Äd h_d]i" WdZ
Zkij m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh$ :_ff_d] j^[c _d j^[ Åekh _i j^[
[Wi_[ijmWojeZej^_i$ N  .BLFTNVGGJOT
 9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"ik]Wh"XWa_d]
ieZW" WdZ iWbj$ ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i" WdZ
m^_ia_dj^[YWdebWe_bWdZoe]khj$
 FbWY[ W dedij_Ya ]h_ZZb[ eh jme dedij_Ya ia_bb[ji
el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZi[jj^[ck\Ädh_d]i_dfbWY[$
Ifh_dab[ W b_jjb[ h_Y[ Åekh ed j^[ ]h_ZZb[ ikh\WY[ _di_Z[
[WY^ed[jefh[l[djj^[ck\Ädi\hecij_Ya_d]$

O_RNQ` 135
 M^[dj^[]h_ZZb[_i^ej"WZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djije
j^[Åekhc_njkh["WdZij_hm[bbje\ehcWfk\\oXWjj[h$>Wb\#
Äbb [WY^ ck\Äd h_d]" iceej^_d] j^[ ikh\WY[" WdZ Zkij
b_]^jbo m_j^ WZZ_j_edWb h_Y[ Åekh$ 7\j[h ' c_dkj[" dkZ][
[WY^ ck\Äd h_d] m_j^ W ifWjkbW je cWa[ ikh[ _j _id¼j
ij_Ya_d]" WdZ Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] \eh Wdej^[h ) c_dkj[i$
>ebZ_d]jed]i_ded[^WdZWdZWifWjkbW_dj^[ej^[h"
f_Yakf[WY^h_d]j^[ck\Ädmed¼j\WbbekjWdZfbWY[ed
j^[ ifWjkbW$ H[l[hi[ j^[ ck\Ädi XWYa edje j^[ ]h_ZZb[
WdZYedj_dk[Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[i[YedZi_Z[_iXhemd[Z
WdZ j^[ ck\Äd _i Yeea[Z j^hek]^" ) je * c_dkj[i$
JhWdi\[h je W hWYa$ M^[d j^[ h_d]i Wh[ Yeeb [dek]^ je
^WdZb["\h[[j^[ck\Ädim_j^Wad_\[XbWZ["WdZb[jYeeb
Yecfb[j[bo$ Ifb_j d[l[h Ykj Xo _di[hj_d] j^[ j_d[i e\
W \eha ^eh_pedjWbbo WhekdZ [WY^ ck\Äd" WdZ fho WfWhj
\eh efj_cWb YhW]]_d[ii1 j^[d jeWij kdZ[h W Xhe_b[h$ J^[
ck\Ädim_bba[[f\eh(ZWoimhWff[ZWdZh[\h_][hWj[Z"eh
j^[ocWoX[\hep[d$

'), j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


T\Na PURR`R ]VggN dVaU
_VPR SY\b_ P_ b`a

5)&  8 )*5 &  3*$&  '-0 63  flatbread on page SFDJQF2VJDL8IJUF


133 makes a good base for pizza. This goat cheese 3JDF'MPVS'MBUCSFBE
topping always wins approval, but of course you QBHF
VOCBLFE
can use any pizza topping you like. UBCMFTQPPOTNBSJOBSB
TBVDF GSPNBKBSPS
DBO

 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j PVODFTTPGUXIJUFHPBU


m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ DIFFTF
 Ki_d] W hkXX[h ifWjkbW" Z_l_Z[ j^[ ÅWjXh[WZ Zek]^ PS3PNBUPNBUPFT 
_dje jme [gkWb cekdZi ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j" + _dY^[i TMJDFE
WfWhj$<bWjj[d[WY^ed[][djbo_djeWd.#_dY^Z_ia"cWa_d] UFBTQPPOESJFE

j^[h_cib_]^jboj^_Ya[h$8Wa[kdj_bÄhcXkjdejXhemd[Z" PSFHBOP
'+c_dkj[i$ BODIPWZ¹MMFUTDBOOFE
 H[cel[j^[f_ppWXWi[i\hecj^[el[d"WdZifh[WZ JOPMJWFPJM ESBJOFE
[WY^ed[m_j^cWh_dWhWiWkY[jem_j^_d'_dY^e\j^[h_c$ BOEDPBSTFMZDIPQQFE
Jefm_j^Zebbefie\]eWjY^[[i["j^[jecWje[i"eh[]Wde" DVQCMBDLPJMDVSFE

WdY^el_[i"eb_l[i"WdZed_edh_d]i$H[jkhdjej^[el[d" PMJWFT IBMWFEBOE


WdZXWa[kdj_bj^[f_ppW[Z][iWh[Yh_ifWdZ]ebZ[d"W QJUUFE
\khj^[h'+c_dkj[i$ SFEPOJPO UIJOMZ

TMJDFEBOETFQBSBUFE
/E?A#HKQN#K?=??E= JOUPSJOHT
JecWa[\eYWYY_W"fheY[[ZWiWXel["cWa_d]jme[gkWb
cekdZi e\ Zek]^ ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j$ <bWjj[d _dje N  .BLFTUXPJ ODIQJ[[BT
.#_dY^Z_iai$IfhWoehXhki^m_j^eb_l[e_b"WdZifh_dab[
m_j^YeWhi[i[WiWbjehaei^[hiWbjYhoijWbiWdZY^eff[Z
\h[i^^[hXi"ikY^Wihei[cWho"eh[]Wde"ehj^oc[$8Wa[
kdj_b]ebZ[d"WXekj(&c_dkj[i$

O_RNQ` 137
_VPR SY\b_ ONTbRaaR`

DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS 5)& 4&  -0/(  5)*/  $3*41  $  364 5&%


DVQCMBODIFE baguettes have a light and chewy interior thanks
BMNPOET XIPMF to beaten egg whites in the dough. Unusually, no
PSTMJWFSFE MJHIUMZ xanthan gum is needed. The unbaked dough is
UPBTUFE soft and needs support; to form these long loaves
DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI you will need a double baguette pan, which looks
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU like an 18-inch-long drainpipe sliced in half verti-
UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH cally and stuck together to make a W. They can
QPXEFS be found in most kitchenware shops.
DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML For super sandwiches, split the baguettes,
ZPHVSU spread with grainy Dijon mustard, and fill with
MBSHFFHHXIJUFT Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa (page 89) and
$PBSTFTBMUDSZTUBMT mixed baby greens.

 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&–<$ B_d[ W ZekXb[ XW]k[jj[


fWdm_j^Wi^[[je\fWhY^c[djfWf[h"Yh[Wi_d]j^[ekj[h
N  .BLFTCBHVFUUFT [Z][ijecWa[_jb_[idk]boW]W_dijj^[Ykhl[Zi_Z[i$
 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ WbcedZi _d W \eeZ fhe#
Y[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$JhWdi\[hjeWbWh][Xemb"
WdZ WZZ j^[ jWf_eYW ijWhY^" iWbj" WdZ XWa_d] femZ[h$
9ecX_d[j^[oe]khjm_j^'À*YkfmWj[h$?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb"
X[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bij_\\f[Wai\ehc$
 7ZZj^[oe]khjWdZmWj[hjej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[dji"WdZ
c_nm[bb$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ij_h_ded[#j^_hZe\j^[
[]]m^_j[i"j^[d\ebZ_dj^[h[cW_dZ[h$:hefWZ`e_d_d]
Zebbefi e\ Zek]^ _dje j^[ XW]k[jj[ fWd" jho_d] dej je

'). j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


^_jj^[i_Z[ie\j^[fWd"\ehc_d]jme'(#je'*#_dY^#bed]
beWl[i$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^YeWhi[iWbjYhoijWbi$8Wa[kdj_b
]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i" j^[d jkhd j^[ beWl[i
el[h"WdZXWa[Wdej^[h+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beWl[ije
Wm_h[hWYa$I[hl[mWhc$8W]k[jj[icWoX[\hep[dWdZ
h[^[Wj[Z$

O_RNQ` 139
_ b`aVP `RRQ O_RNQ

DVQCVDLXIFBUºPVS 3&.*/*4$&/5 0' "/ " 3 5 *4 " / " -  rye


DVQºBYNFBM bread, but more mellow, this close-grained dark
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS bread is marvelous with cream cheese and Medjool
DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI dates . . . or cream cheese and smoked salmon . . . or
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN unsalted butter and preserves.
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH
QPXEFS
UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WXWa_d]i^[[jm_j^
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
UFBTQPPOTDBSBXBZ  9ecX_d[ j^[ XkYam^[Wj Åekh" ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh"
TFFET jWf_eYW ijWhY^" nWdj^Wd ]kc" XWa_d] femZ[h" XWa_d]
MBSHFFHHT ieZW"iWbj"WdZYWhWmWoi[[Zi"WdZij_hm[bb$?dWi[fWhWj[
DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML Xemb" X[Wj je][j^[h j^[ []]i" oe]khj" cebWii[i" WdZ
ZPHVSU 'À* Ykf mWj[h$ Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji el[h j^[ Åekh

UBCMFTQPPONPMBTTFT c_njkh[" WdZ X[Wj m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed kdj_b iceej^"


FHHXIJUF MJHIUMZ (&i[YedZi$J^[Zek]^i^ekbZ`kij^ebZ_jii^Wf["Xkj
CFBUFO _\_ji[[cijeeÄhc"WZZ'eh(jWXb[ifeediceh[mWj[h$
UFBTQPPOTTFTBNF
TFFET

N  .BLFTGMBUCSFBE

'*& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"iYeefekjj^[XWjj[h_djeWXWbbed
j^[XWa_d]i^[[j$M_j^b_]^jboe_b[Z^WdZi"fWjl[ho][djbo
ie oek Zed¼j fh[ii ekj j^[ W_h _dje W -#_dY^#Z_Wc[j[h
i^WbbemZec[$8hki^m_j^j^[[]]m^_j[WdZifh_dab[j^[
i[iWc[i[[Zi[l[dboedjef$Fh[iij^[c_d][djbo$
 Ki_d]Wbed]ad_\[XbWZ[WdZm_f_d]_jX[jm[[dYkji"
ibWi^ W Z_W]edWb ]h_Z fWjj[hd ed jef e\ j^[ ÅWjXh[WZ"
cWa_d]\ekhehÄl['À*#_dY^#Z[[fYkji[WY^mWo$8Wa[kdj_b
XhemdWdZYhkijo")&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebedWm_h[hWYa$

O_RNQ` 141
SYNe`RRQ`

<bWn _i j^[ Yecced dWc[ \eh W fbWdj m_j^ fh[jjo Xbk[ Åem[hi j^Wj ^Wi X[[d Ykbj_lWj[Z \eh
c_bb[dd_W"Xej^\eh_jibed]"i_baoÄX[hi¸ki[Zjeif_db_d[dj^h[WZ¸WdZ\eh_jii[[Zi"m^_Y^
Wh[fh[ii[Z\ehj^[_h^_]^e_bYedj[dj$?dj^[fWij"j^_ie_bmWiWbbjkhd[Z_dje_d[Z_Xb[b_di[[Ze_b
\eh_dZkijh_Wbki[i$J^[ieb_Zh[i_Zk["b_di[[ZYWa["mWiWdZij_bb_iki[ZWiWdekh_i^_d]\[[Z
\ehYWjjb[$?j¼iedboh[Y[djboj^Wjh[i[WhY^[hi^Wl[Z_iYel[h[Zj^WjÅWni[[ZicWa[Wd_dlWbkWXb[
\eeZ\ehf[efb["jee$
7i_Z[\hecj^[_h^_]^ÄX[hYedj[djWfWbjhogkWhj[hYkfYedjW_di,]hWci"ÅWni[[ZiYedjW_d
^k][Wcekdjie\jmeYecfekdZij^WjcWoYed\[hWbba_dZie\ej^[hc[Z_YWbX[d[Äji0b_]dWdi"
m^_Y^^Wl[_cfhel[Zj^[beje\bWXehWjehoc_Y[m_j^jkcehi"WdZWbf^W#b_deb[d_YWY_Z"WfbWdj#
XWi[Zl[hi_ede\j^[ec[]W#)\Wjij^WjWh[iW_Zje^[bfmWhZe\\^[WhjWjjWYai$
J^[i[X[d[ÄY_Wbi[[Zi"m^_Y^^Wl[Wfb[WiWdj"]hWiioÅWleh"YWdX[]ebZ[dehXhemd$J^[o
a[[fm[bbWjheecj[cf[hWjkh["XkjÅWnc[Wbi^ekbZX[ijeh[Z_dj^[h[\h_][hWjeheh\h[[p[heh
_jm_bb]ehWdY_Z$<bWnc[Wb_iWlW_bWXb[WjdWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[iWdZiec[ikf[hcWha[ji1oekYWd
Wbie]h_dZoekhemd_dWd[b[Yjh_YYe\\[[c_bba[fj\eh]h_dZ_d]j^_d]iej^[hj^WdYe\\[[$:ed¼j
ki[W\eeZfheY[iieh0j^[i[[Zii_cfbom^_hbWXekj"X[YWki[j^[ekj[hi[[ZYWi_d]_i[njh[c[bo
^WhZ$7medZ[h\kbWZZ_j_edje]bkj[d#\h[[Xh[WZi"m^_Y^YWdgk_YabojkhdZho"ÅWnc[Wb¼i^_]^e_b
Yedj[dja[[fij^[cce_ijWim[bbWiÅWleh\kb$
Dej[j^Wjh[Y[djc[Z_YWbh[i[WhY^ik]][ijij^WjÅWni^ekbZX[Wle_Z[ZXomec[dZkh_d]
fh[]dWdYo"eh_\j^[oWh[ed[ijhe][d$7iWbmWoi"_\_dWdoZekXj"Yedikbjoekhf^oi_Y_WdWdZ
dkjh_j_ed_ij\ehh[Yecc[dZWj_edi_doekhfWhj_YkbWhYWi[$

'*( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


SYNeZRNY `XVY YRa O_RNQ

."%&  -*,&  0  -%  '


 " 4)*0/&%  $03/ DVQºBYNFBM

bread in a preheated iron skillet, this whole-grain DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

bread has a light, supple crumb. It bakes in just DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

12 minutes, and goes especially well with salads UFBTQPPOCBLJOH

and cheese. QPXEFS


UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB

UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&–<" WdZ ^[Wj W ^[Wlo" m[bb# HVN
i[Wied[Z.'À(#_dY^_hedia_bb[jehYh…f[fWdWjj^[iWc[ UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

j_c[$ DVQCVUUFSNJMLPS

 9ecX_d[ j^[ ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" jWf_eYW ijWhY^" DVQQMBJOXIPMF

XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj$?dW NJMLZPHVSUQMVT
i[fWhWj[Xemb"m^_iaje][j^[hj^[Xkjj[hc_ba"[]]"WdZ' DVQNJML

jWXb[ifeede\j^[YWdebWe_b$ MBSHFFHH
 Fhej[Yj_d] oekh ^WdZ m_j^ W c_jj" h[cel[ j^[ ^ej UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM
ia_bb[j\hecj^[el[d$7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede_b
WdZim_hb_jWhekdZjeYeWjj^[Xejjece\j^[fWd$
 Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji _dje j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji" N  .BLFTGMBUCSFBE
c_nkdj_biceej^"WdZiYhWf[j^[XWjj[h_djej^[^ej"e_b[Z
ia_bb[j$ JhWdi\[h je j^[ el[d WdZ XWa[ kdj_b Xhemd WdZ
Yhkijo"'(c_dkj[i$<b_fj^[Xh[WZekjedjeWm_h[hWYa"
WdZb[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[Ykjj_d]_djem[Z][i$

O_RNQ` 143
^bVPX SYNe`RRQ N[Q PUVPX]RN
ONTbRaaR
DVQºBYNFBM 3&.*/*4$&/ 5  0 '  " /  " 3 5 *4 " /  . " % &
DVQDIJDLQFB rustic loaf, this torpedo-shaped whole-grain loaf
HBSCBO[P
ºPVS has a crisp crust, a soft crumb, and layers of en-
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS ticing flavors. It toasts well, and makes excellent
DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI French toast.
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN
UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH
QPXEFS  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
UFBTQPPOBOJTFTFFET  ?d W \eeZ fheY[iieh eh W bWh][ Xemb" YecX_d[ j^[
UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO ÅWnc[Wb"Y^_Yaf[WÅekh"h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"nWdj^Wd
PMJWFPJM ]kc"XWa_d]femZ[h"iWbj"WdZWd_i[i[[Zi$FheY[iikdj_b
UFBTQPPONPMBTTFT m[bbc_n[Z"'&i[YedZi"ehij_hm[bb$?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb"
MBSHFFHH YecX_d[ j^[ eb_l[ e_b" cebWii[i" []]" WdZ ' Ykf mWj[h"
UFBTQPPOTFTBNF WdZij_hjeXb[dZ$
TFFET  7ZZ j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji je j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji Wbb
WjedY["WdZfheY[iibed][dek]^je\ehcWÄhc"ij_Yao
XWjj[h" WXekj (& i[YedZi" eh X[Wj ^WhZ m_j^ W meeZ[d
N  .BLFTCBHVFUUF ifeed\eh(c_dkj[i$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"iYeefekj
j^[XWjj[h_dbWh][ZebbefiWdZZhefj^[c"jekY^_d][WY^
ej^[h"_dWZ_W]edWbb_d[WYheiij^[XWa_d]i^[[j$Ki_d]
j^[ ifWjkbW" \ehc ][djbo _dje W '*#_dY^#bed] jehf[Ze
i^Wf[ m_j^ ^kcfi$ :e j^_i Wi b_]^jbo Wi feii_Xb[ ie
Wi dej je fh[ii W_h ekj e\ j^[ XWjj[h$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[
i[iWc[ i[[Zi$ 8Wa[ kdj_b Xhemd WdZ Yhkijo" WXekj (+
c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beW\jeWm_h[hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$I[[
_bbkijhWj_ededfW]['(/$

'** j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


fRN`a _ NV`RQ
P\_ [ZRNY SYNaO_RNQ

5)& 4&  "30."5 *$  (0-%&/  -0"7& 4 DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 


are crusty on the outside and tender within. For a QMVTFYUSBGPSEVTUJOH
change of pace, you can replace the cornmeal MPBWFT
with buckwheat, chickpea, teff, or millet flour.  UFBTQPPOTHSBOVMBS

ZFBTU
DVQDPSONFBM
 B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[jm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

 9ecX_d['À(Ykfe\j^[h_Y[ÅekhWdZj^[o[Wijm_j^'À( UFBTQPPOTYBOUIBO


YkfmWhc''&–<mWj[h$B[jh[ijkdj_bZekXb[Z_dlebkc[" HVN
WXekj'&c_dkj[i$ UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
 ?dWbWh][Xemb"YecX_d[j^[h[cW_d_d]'À(Ykfh_Y[Åekh" MBSHFFHHT BUSPPN
j^[Yehdc[Wb"jWf_eYWijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj$?dW UFNQFSBUVSF
i[fWhWj[Xemb"X[Wjj^[[]]ib_]^jbom_j^'YkfmWhcmWj[h UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB
WdZj^[eb_l[e_b$Ij_h_djej^[Åekhc_njkh[$7ZZj^[o[Wij WJSHJOPMJWFPJM
c_njkh["WdZX[Wjkdj_biceej^"WXekj'c_dkj[$ FHHZPML GPSHMB[F
 Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"cWa[jme[gkWbcekdZied
j^[XWa_d]i^[[j"+_dY^[iWfWhj$<bWjj[d[WY^ed[][djbo
_djeWd.#_dY^Z_ia"^[Wf_d]_jkfib_]^jbo_dj^[Y[dj[h$ N  .BLFTGMBUCSFBET
9el[hj^[beWl[ib_]^jbom_j^]h[Wi[ZfbWij_YmhWf"WdZb[j
h_i[kdj_bZekXb[Z_dXkba"WXekj'^ekh$
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *(+–<$ 8b[dZ j^[ []] oeba m_j^
'j[WifeedmWj[h"WdZXhki^el[hj^[beWl[i$:kijl[ho
b_]^jbom_j^h_Y[Åekh$Ki_d]Wbed]ad_\[XbWZ[WdZm_f_d]
_jX[jm[[dYkji"ibWi^WZ_W]edWb]h_ZfWjj[hdedjefe\
[WY^ÅWjXh[WZ"cWa_d]\ekhehÄl['À*#_dY^#Z[[fYkji[WY^
mWo$8Wa[kdj_b]ebZ[dXhemd"WXekj(+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[h
jeWm_h[hWYa$I[hl[mWhc$

O_RNQ` 145
P\_ [ZRNY N[Q PURR`R `U\_ aO_RNQ

DVQVOTBMUFECVUUFS  +64 5  3*() 5  '03  /*##-*/(  with a glass


TPGUFOFE of wine, this dappled gold disk falls somewhere
MBSHFFHH between a soft, outsized Mexican tortilla and ten-
DVQHSBUFE$IFEEBS  der cheese pastry. Tear off chunks or, if this seems
"TJBHP PS3PNBOP too casual, cut it into wedges. Serve plain or with
DVQNBTBIBSJOB salsa.
.FYJDBODPSOºPVS
GPSNBLJOHUPSUJMMBT

QMVTFYUSBGPSSPMMJOH  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+–<$ >Wl[ h[WZo W i^[[j e\
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH Wbkc_dkc\e_bWdZWYeea_[i^[[j$
QPXEFS  9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ X[Wj _d j^[ []] WdZ Y^[[i[$
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU 8b[dZ je][j^[h j^[ cWiW" XWa_d] femZ[h" WdZ iWbj$
UBCMFTQPPOTNJML Ij_h _dje j^[ Y^[[i[ c_njkh[ b_jjb[ Xo b_jjb[" Wbj[hdWj_d]
m_j^ ifh_dab[i e\ c_ba" je \ehc W ie\j Zek]^$ :kij j^[
\e_b b_]^jbo m_j^ cWiW" WdZ jkhd ekj j^[ Zek]^ edje _j$
=Wj^[h_j_djeWXWbb"WdZad[WZ\ehWc_dkj[ehjmekdj_b
iceej^$ :kij m_j^ W b_jjb[ ceh[ cWiW" WdZ hebb _dje W
N  .BLFTTFSWFTUP '&#_dY^ Y_hYb[" WXekj 'À* _dY^ j^_Ya$ Ib_Z[ W Yeea_[ i^[[j
kdZ[hj^[\e_b"WdZfbWY[_dj^[el[d$8Wa[\eh'&c_dkj[i
kdj_bj^[fWdYWa[ijWhjijeXhemdWjj^[[Z][i$
 C[Wdm^_b["fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$FbWY[j^[Yeea_[i^[[j
kdZ[hj^[^[Wj"WdZXhe_bkdj_bj^[jefikh\WY[_iZWffb[Z
XhemdWdZ]ebZ"WXekj+c_dkj[i$I[hl[^ej$

'*, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


P\_ [ZRNY N[Q ` b[ Q _VRQ
a\ZNa\ Y\NS

5)*4  " 11& 5*;*/(  4 "703: -0" '  makes TVOESJFE3PNB


good use of the flavorful olive oil from a jar of UPNBUPFTJOPMJWFPJM 
sun-dried tomatoes. If the tomatoes remaining in ESBJOFEBOEDIPQQFE
the jar are left high and dry, cover them with fresh DVQDPSONFBM

olive oil. DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

DVQDPSOTUBSDI

UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+–<$ =h[Wi[ Wd .'À( s *'À(#_dY^ UFBTQPPOESJFE

beW\ fWd m_j^ W b_jjb[ eb_l[ e_b \hec j^[ `Wh e\ ikd#Zh_[Z PSFHBOP
jecWje[i$  UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH


 9ecX_d[ j^[ Yehdc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" iWbj" QPXEFS


eh[]Wde"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"WdZnWdj^Wd]kc" UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
WdZ c_n m[bb$ ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo" UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN
WdZWZZj^[jecWje#ÅWleh[Zeb_l[e_b"c_ba"oe]khj"WdZ MBSHFFHHT
'À(Ykfe\j^[FWhc[iWd$7ZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djijej^[ UBCMFTQPPOTºBWPSFE
Åekh c_njkh[" WdZ X[Wj m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed kdj_b PMJWFPJMGSPNKBSPG
iceej^"'c_dkj[$Ij_h_dj^[Y^eff[Zikd#Zh_[ZjecWje[i$ TVOESJFEUPNBUPFT
JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[beW\fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZ DVQNJML

ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedFWhc[iWd$8Wa[ DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML

kdj_b h_i[d WdZ Xhemd[Z" WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya ZPHVSU


[c[h][iYb[Wd"WXekj DVQQMVTUBCMFTQPPO

*+c_dkj[i$Jkhdekj GSFTIMZHSBUFE
edje W m_h[ hWYa WdZ 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP
b[jYeebX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$
N  .BLFTMPBG

O_RNQ` 147
 Yeea_[i 
WdZXWhi
*/  " .&3*$ "± 4  .&-5*/(  1 05  0'  $ 6-*/ "3:  traditions, there are
really two kinds of cookies: the satisfying cookie-with-a-glass-of-milk variety,
and the smaller, more elegant kind that goes so well with a cup of tea or espresso,
or provides a crunchy counterpoint to creamy desserts. Both types have their
merits, both turn out exceptionally well when made with rice, teff, and nut
flours, and both are eminently gift-worthy.

'*/
]RN[ba ObaaR_²PU\P\YNaR PUV]
P\\XVR`

40'5  %&-&$5"#-&  "/% 0653"(&064-: UBCMFTQPPOT


rich, these confections cause cookie lovers to TUJDL
VOTBMUFE
swoon. Use premium chocolate chips if possible. CVUUFS TPGUFOFE
Ghirardelli make some with 60 percent cocoa but- DVQDSFBNZQFBOVU

ter, and they are worth seeking out for their silky CVUUFS
smoothness. MBSHFFHH
DVQQBDLFEEBSL

CSPXOTVHBS
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" UFBTQPPOCBLJOH

Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ QPXEFS
 Ki_d]WmeeZ[difeed"Yh[Wcj^[Xkjj[hkdj_biceej^$ DVQEBSL

8[Wj _d j^[ f[Wdkj Xkjj[h" j^[d j^[ []]$ 7ZZ j^[ Xhemd DIPDPMBUFDIJQT
ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"iWbj"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h"WdZij_hjeXb[dZ$ DVQDIPQQFEQFDBOT

 Ij_h _d j^[ Y^eYebWj[ Y^_fi WdZ Y^eff[Z dkji$ J^[ PSXBMOVUT
Zek]^ m_bb X[ ie\j WdZ ij_Yao$ :hef Xo j^[ hekdZ[Z
jWXb[ifeededjej^[XWa_d]i^[[ji"(_dY^[iWfWhj"ki_d] N  .BLFTBCPVU
Wi[YedZjWXb[ifeedjei^Wf[j^[Zek]^_djeWXWbbWdZ
Z_ibeZ][_j$8Wa[kdj_b]ebZ[dWdZ`kiji[j"'(je'+c_dkj[i$
B[j ijWdZ ed j^[
XWa_d]i^[[ji\eh
+c_dkj[iX[\eh[
jhWdi\[hh_d] je W
m_h[ hWYa je Yeeb
Yecfb[j[bo$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 151


PU\P\YNaR²]V[R [ba ZR_V[TbR
P\\XVR`

MBSHFFHHXIJUFT */  *5" -:  $0 0,*& 4  -*, &  these are known


DVQTVHBS as brutti ma buoni (ugly but good). Quick and easy
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU to make, they have crackly tops and chewy, rich
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB interiors.
FYUSBDU
DVQ PVODFT
QJOF

OVUT  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j


PVODFTUP m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
EBSLDIPDPMBUF   8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bj^[oijWhjje^ebZj^[_hi^Wf["
NFMUFEBOEDPPMFEUP j^[dX[Wj_dj^[ik]WhWb_jjb[WjWj_c[$9edj_dk[X[Wj_d]
MVLFXBSN kdj_bj^[c[h_d]k[^ebZiij_\\"kdmWl[h_d]f[Wai"WXekj
(c_dkj[i$8[Wj_dj^[iWbjWdZlWd_bbW$<ebZ_dj^[f_d[
dkji"WdZj^[dj^[Y^eYebWj[$?j¼iÄd[jeb[Wl[im_hbi$
:hefXoj[Wifeed\kbiedjej^[XWa_d]i^[[j"'_dY^WfWhj$
8Wa[kdj_bfk\\[ZkfWdZYh_if"WXekj'&c_dkj[i$J^[
_dj[h_ehim_bbÄhckfib_]^jboWij^[oYeeb$JhWdi\[hjeW
m_h[hWYa$
N  .BLFTBCPVU

'+( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


]RPN[ R `]_R``\ P\\XVR`

5)& 4&  #6 5 5 &3:  $  0''&& '  - "703&% DVQQBDLFEEBSL

4)03 5#3& " %  cookies are rolled in chopped CSPXOTVHBS


pecans before baking for additional crunch. UBCMFTQPPOT 
TUJDLT
VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
DVUVQ
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )&&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] MBSHFFHHZPML
i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 
i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS
Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ SPMMJOHDPPLJFT
 9ecX_d[j^[Xhemdik]WhWdZXkjj[h_dW\eeZfhe# DVQDPSOTUBSDI

Y[iieh$FheY[iijeWiceej^"Åk\\oYh[Wc"WZZj^[[]] 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
oeba"WdZfheY[iijec_n$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^" UFBTQPPOTJOTUBOU
iWbj"WdZ_dijWdjYe\\[["WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åoje\ehcWXWbb DPGGFF QSFGFSBCMZ
e\ie\jZek]^$ FTQSFTTP
 Ifh[WZ j^[ Y^eff[Z f[YWdi ed W meha ikh\WY[$ DVQ PVODFT

:_ff_d] oekh Äd][hi _d h_Y[ Åekh" \ehc j^[ Zek]^ _dje QFDBOT ¹OFMZDIPQQFE
'#_dY^XWbbi"WdZhebb_dj^[Y^eff[Zdkji$<bWjj[db_]^jbo
iej^Wjj^[dkjiij_Ya$JhWdi\[hjej^[XWa_d]i^[[ji''À( N  .BLFTBCPVU
_dY^[i WfWhj" WdZ Y^_bb \eh '& c_dkj[i$ 8Wa[ kdj_b b_]^j
jWdWdZ`kiji[j"'.c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWm_h[hWYaWdZ
b[jYeeb$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 153


UNgRY[ba gRO_N P\\XVR`

DVQ PVODFT
 5)&4& -*()5  "  6453*"/4 5:-& $00,*&4
IB[FMOVUT rise even though they contain no baking powder
DVQTVHBS because tiny granules of cold butter melt as the
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS cookies bake and make little air spaces.
DVQDPSOTUBSDI

1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j
VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME  m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
DVUVQ  ?dj^[Xembe\W\eeZfheY[iieh"YecX_d[j^[^Wp[bdkji
MBSHFFHHZPML WdZik]Wh$FheY[iikdj_bÄd[bo]hekdZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB YehdijWhY^" iWbj" WdZ Xkjj[h$ FheY[ii kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[
FYUSBDU ijWhjijeYbkcfje][j^[h"WXekj)&i[YedZi"j^[dWZZj^[
PVODFTEBSL []]oebaWdZlWd_bbW"WdZfheY[iikdj_bj^[Zek]^\ehciW
DIPDPMBUF NFMUFE hek]^XWbb"iYhWf_d]Zemdj^[Xemb_\d[Y[iiWho$
 F_dY^e\\icWbbf_[Y[ie\Zek]^"WdZ\ehc_dje'#_dY^
XWbbi$<bWjj[dib_]^jboWdZWhhWd][edj^[XWa_d]i^[[j"'
_dY^WfWhj$H[\h_][hWj[\eh'&c_dkj[i$
N  .BLFTBCPVU  8Wa[kdj_bl[hob_]^jboYebeh[ZWdZj^[kdZ[hi_Z[ijkhdW
fWb[jWd"WXekj'+c_dkj[i$B[jÄhckfedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j
\eh(c_dkj[i"j^[djhWdi\[hjeWm_h[hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$
 B_d[Wmehaikh\WY[m_j^Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc\e_b"WdZ
fbWY[j^[hWYae\Yeea_[iedjef$Fki^j^[Yeea_[iYbei[
je][j^[hiej^[ojekY^$:h_ppb[j^[c[bj[ZY^eYebWj[e\\
W ifeed el[h j^[ Yeea_[i" fWii_d] _j XWYa WdZ \ehj^ je
cWa[hWdZec"j^_dijh_f[i$Fki^j^[Yeea_[iWfWhj"WdZ
b[j ijWdZ kdj_b j^[ Y^eYebWj[ ^WhZ[di" WXekj ' ^ekh" eh
h[\h_][hWj[\eh'&c_dkj[i$

'+* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


UNgRY[ba _ N`]OR__ f P\\XVR`

5)&  & " 4*& 4 5  " /%  2 6*$,& 4 5  way to get MBSHFFHH


the jam filling into these miniature jam tartlets is UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL

to use a disposable cone-shaped pastry bag or, VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
failing that, a plastic bag with a small piece TPGUFOFE
snipped off one corner. DVQ¹SNMZQBDLFE

EBSLCSPXOTVHBS
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB

 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j FYUSBDU


m_j^XWa_d]fWhY^c[dj$ DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

 I[fWhWj[j^[[]]"h[i[hl_d]j^[oeba$FbWY[j^[m^_j[ DVQDPSOTUBSDI

_dWi^WbbemXemb"WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$ 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ Xhemd ik]Wh kdj_b Åk\\o" j^[d DVQ PVODFT


X[Wj _d j^[ lWd_bbW WdZ []] oeba$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" IB[FMOVUT ¹OFMZ
YehdijWhY^"WdZiWbj"WdZXb[dZj^ehek]^bo$ DIPQQFE
 F_dY^ e\\ f_[Y[i e\ Zek]^ WdZ hebb _dje '#_dY^ XWbbi$ DVQSBTQCFSSZKBN

:_f [WY^ XWbb _dje j^[ []] m^_j[" WdZ j^[d hebb _d j^[
Y^eff[Z^Wp[bdkji$FbWY[edj^[fh[fWh[ZXWa_d]i^[[j$
M_j^j^[[dZe\WmeeZ[difeed"cWa[Wd_dZ[djWj_ed N  .BLFTBCPVU
_dj^[Y[dj[he\[WY^XWbb$<_bb[WY^j^h[[#gkWhj[hi\kbbm_j^
`Wc1 i[j j^[ XW] m_j^ j^[ `Wc Wi_Z[$ 8Wa[ j^[ Yeea_[i
kdj_bb_]^jboXhemd[Z"'(je'+c_dkj[i$H[Äbb[WY^Yeea_[
m_j^ `Wc j^[ Äbb_d] m_bb ^Wl[ ¹i^hkdaº ib_]^jbo Zkh_d]
XWa_d]"j^[djhWdi\[hjeWXWa_d]hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 155


NYZ\[Q WNZ
`N[QdVPU P\\XVR`

DVQ PVODFT
 "  1&3&//*" -  '"703*5& 5)*4  version is
CMBODIFE TMJWFSFE more delicate than the usual jam-filled cookie. Be
BMNPOET sure to choose jam without large chunks of fruit
DVQDPSOTUBSDI in it (raspberry and sieved apricot are good) or
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
 the top cookies may break when you press them
VOTBMUFECVUUFS  down. Naturally, you can also make flat cookies
TPGUFOFE with this dough, in which case roll it 1 ⁄4 inch thick,
DVQTVHBS and bake the cookies for about 12 minutes.
MBSHFFHHZPML
UFBTQPPOBMNPOE

FYUSBDU  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d]
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d]
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]"
DVQCFSSZPSBQSJDPU Wi_jckijX[YebZ$
KBN PSDVQPGFBDI  9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZiWdZYehdijWhY^_dW\eeZfhe#
$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS Y[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$I[jWi_Z[$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h
WdZik]Whjej^[fheY[iieh"WdZXb[dZkdj_bYh[Wco$7ZZ
N  .BLFT j^[[]]oebaWdZWbcedZ[njhWYj"WdZXb[dZkdj_biceej^$
7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"iWbj"WdZj^[WbcedZc_njkh["WdZfhe#
Y[iiXh_[Åokdj_bWhek]^XWbbe\Zek]^\ehci$
 Jkhdj^[Zek]^ekjedjeWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf$Fh[ii
je][j^[h _dje W Z_ia" Ykj _d ^Wb\"
WdZi[jed[#^Wb\Wi_Z[$9el[hj^[
h[cW_d_d] ^Wb\ m_j^ W i[YedZ
i^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"WdZhebbekj
'À. _dY^ j^_Ya$ 9kj ekj Wi cWdo

('À(#_dY^ hekdZi Wi feii_Xb["

'+, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


h[hebb_d]j^[jh_cc_d]i\ehceh[Yeea_[i$JhWdi\[hjeed[
e\j^[XWa_d]i^[[ji$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^"
WdZYkjW'À(#_dY^Y_hYb[\hecj^[Y[dj[he\[WY^ed[W\j[h
jhWdi\[hh_d] j^[ Yeea_[i je j^[ i[YedZ XWa_d] i^[[j$
H[hebbj^[jh_cc_d]i"cWa_d]Wd[gkWbdkcX[he\m^eb[
WdZh_d]Yeea_[i$8Wa[kdj_b`kijijWhj_d]jeXhemdWjj^[
[Z][i"'&c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjem_h[hWYaiWdZb[jYeeb$
 9[dj[h W ][d[heki j[Wifeed e\ `Wc ed [WY^ ieb_Z
Yeea_[" ifh[WZ_d] _j ekj W b_jjb[$ Jef m_j^ j^[ h_d]i"
fh[ii_d] Zemd l[ho b_]^jbo$ :kij m_j^ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼
ik]Wh$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 157


aRSS O_\d[VR`

UBCMFTQPPOT *'  5 )&3&  8 &3&  /0  other reason for buying


TUJDLT
VOTBMUFE teff flour, these spectacular, trufflelike brownies
CVUUFS DVUVQ would be cause enough.
PVODFTUP
EBSLDIPDPMBUF 
DIPQQFE  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$B_d[Wd.#_dY^igkWh[YWa[
PVODFVOTXFFUFOFE fWdm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
DIPDPMBUF DIPQQFE  9ecX_d[j^[Xkjj[h"ZWhaY^eYebWj["WdZkdim[[j[d[Z
MBSHFFHHT Y^eYebWj[_dj^[jefe\WZekXb[Xe_b[h$C[bjel[hXWh[bo
DVQTVHBS i_cc[h_d] mWj[h" WdZ b[j Yeeb je bka[mWhc$ 8[Wj j^[
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB []]i" ik]Wh" WdZ lWd_bbW kdj_b m[bb YecX_d[Z$ 8[Wj _d
FYUSBDU j^[Y^eYebWj[c_njkh["j^[dj^[j[\\ÅekhWdZiWbj$Ij_h
DVQEBSLUFGGºPVS _dj^[mWbdkji$
UFBTQPPOTBMU  JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[fh[fWh[ZfWd"WdZiceej^
DVQ PVODFT
 j^[ jef$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ jef _i i[j WdZ fWb[ Xhemd Xkj
XBMOVUT DIPQQFE j^[_dj[h_eh_iij_bbce_ij"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$7d_di[hj[Z
$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS jeej^f_Yai^ekbZ[c[h][ib_]^jboij_Yao$J^[Xhemd_[im_bb
Yedj_dk[jeYeea\ehW\[mc_dkj[iWij^[oYeeb$B[jYeeb
N  .BLFT Yecfb[j[bo _d j^[ fWd$ KdcebZ" WdZ jh_c e\\ j^[ Yh_if
[Z][i d_XXb_d] ed j^[i[ X_ji _i j^[ Yeea¼i fh_l_b[]["
iej^Wjm^[dYkj"[l[hoXhemd_[m_bbX[\kZ]o$:kijm_j^
Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh$9kj_dje',igkWh[i$

'+. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


aRSS' aUR Y\`a T_NV[ \S RaUV\]VN

J^[WdY_[djDehj^7\h_YWdbWdZe\;j^_ef_Wb_[iX[bem;]ofj$H_d][ZXocekdjW_di"j^[^_]^Y[djhWb
fbWj[Wk_iX[jm[[di[l[dWdZj[dj^ekiWdZ\[[jWXel[i[Wb[l[b$>Wff_bo"j^[fh_dY_fWbY[h[WbYhef
_iW^WhZofbWdjj^WjcWdW][ijej^h_l[Wjj^_iWbj_jkZ[$J[\\^Wii[[ZiieicWbbj^Wjj^[dWc[c[Wdi
¹beij"ºXkjj^[h[Wh[bejie\i[[Zif[hfbWdj$M^[d]hekdZ"j^[ocWa[W^_]^#fhej[_dÅekhj^Wj¼i
ki[Z\ehj^[dWj_edWbXh[WZ"_d`[hW$JecWa[_j";j^_ef_Wdmec[dc_nj[\\Åekhm_j^mWj[hWdZWbbem
j^[XWjj[hje\[hc[dj\ehkfjej^h[[ZWoim^[d_j_ifekh[ZedjeW^k][]h_ZZb[WdZYeea[Zeded[
i_Z[edbo"j^[h[ikbj_iWj^_d")&#_dY^fWdYWa[bWY[Zm_j^Wc_bb_edj_do^eb[i$9eeaiZhWf[i[l[hWb
e\j^[i[ce_ij"Y^[mo"iekhYh…f[iel[hWi^WbbemXWia[jieZ_d[hiYWdj[Whe\\f_[Y[iWdZki[j^[c
WiiYeefi\ehj^[if_Yoij[mie\j^[h[]_ed$:ed¼j[nf[YjjhWZ_j_edWb_d`[hWWj;j^_ef_Wdh[ijWkhWdji
_dDehj^7c[h_YW1ceije\j^[cki[7kdj@[c_cWfWdYWa[c_n$
7bj^ek]^j[\\_i_dZ_][dekije;j^_ef_W"\Whc[hi_dej^[hfWhjie\j^[mehbZ]hem_jWiWY[h[Wb
Yhef$J^[i[[Z^[WZiWh[iej_do¸icWbb[hj^Wdf_d^[WZi¸j^Wjj[\\_iiebZYecfb[j[m_j^][hc
WdZXhWd"m^[j^[hb[\jm^eb[eh]hekdZ_djeÅekh$J[\\]hemd_dj^[Kd_j[ZIjWj[ii^emifhej[_d
b[l[bie\WickY^Wi'+f[hY[dj^_]^[hj^Wdd[WhboWbbej^[hY[h[Wbi"_dYbkZ_d]m^[WjWdZ^Wi
j^[^_]^[ijYWbY_kcYedj[dje\Wdo]hW_d$>_]^_dÄX[h"j^[fhej[_d_jYedjW_di_iWfbWdjl[hi_ed
e\WbXkc_d"j^[fhej[_d\ekdZ_d[]]m^_j[$?jYec[i_djmedkjh_j_edWbbo_Z[dj_YWblWh_[j_[i"b_]^j
WdZZWha$?lehoj[\\Åekh^WiWc[bbem"dkjjoÅWleh1j^[Xhemda_dZZe[ijee"Xkj^WiWjjhWYj_l["
kd[nf[Yj[ZY^eYebWj[el[hjed[i$
J[\\_iiebZ_ddWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[iWdZXocW_behZ[h$OekYWdWbieXko_jZ_h[Yj\hecMWod[WdZ
;b_iWX[j^9Whbiede\j^[J[\\9ecfWdoi[[fW][('("m^eYkbj_lWj[j[\\_diekj^m[ij[hd?ZW^e$
MWod[meha[ZWiWX_ebe]_ij_d;j^_ef_W\ehiec[o[Whi"^[dY[^_i_dj[h[ij_dj^_iWcWp_d]]hW_d$J^[
Yhefj^h_l[i_dlebYWd_Yie_bedj^[?ZW^e#Eh[]edXehZ[h"m^_Y^_imWj[h[ZXoc[bj[Z#idemhkde\\"
WdZj^[9Whbiedi^Wl[fhe]h[ii[Z\hec]hem_d]W\[mhemie\j[\\_dj^[_hXWYaoWhZje^Whl[ij_d]"
j^h[i^_d]"c_bb_d]"WdZfWYaW]_d]jedie\j[\\i[[ZWddkWbbo$Dej\eh][jj_d]_jibWdZe\eh_]_d"j^[o
h[jkhdWfehj_ede\j^[ikf[h]hW_dij^[o^Wl[Z[l[bef[Zje;j^_ef_W\ehW]h_YkbjkhWbjh_Wbi[WY^o[Wh$
J^[oWbieZedWj[i[[ZjeWh[b_[\W][dYo\ehfbWdj_d]_d;j^_ef_W$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 159


aRSS²]RN[ba ObaaR_
SbQTR P\\XVR`
DVQEBSLPSMJHIUUFGG 3&.*/*4$&/50'4-*()5-:(3 "/6- "3 
ºPVS old-fashioned fudge, these satisfying, soft cookies
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS  are quickly mixed in a food processor.
QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS
GPSNJOHDPPLJFT
UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d]
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d]
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]"
HVN Wi_jckijX[YebZ$
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
  9ecX_d[j^[j[\\Åekh"h_Y[Åekh"ik]Wh"iWbj"nWdj^Wd
VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME  ]kc" WdZ Xkjj[h _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh$ FheY[ii Xh_[Åo
DVUJOUPTNBMMDVCFT je \ehc W Äd[ c[Wb$ 7ZZ j^[ YWdebW e_b" f[Wdkj Xkjj[h"
UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM []]"WdZlWd_bbW"WdZfkbi[edWdZe\\kdj_bWie\jZek]^
DVQTNPPUIPSDIVOLZ \ehci$F_dY^e\\f_[Y[ij^[i_p[e\WmWbdkj"Yecfh[ii
QFBOVUCVUUFS ib_]^jbo"WdZhebb_djeXWbbi$<bWjj[dib_]^jbo_dje''À(_dY^[i
MBSHFFHH s'À(#_dY^#j^_YaZ_iai$7hhWd][edj^[XWa_d]i^[[jiWXekj
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB '_dY^WfWhj$Ki_d]W\ehaZ_ff[Z_dh_Y[Åekh"ÅWjj[dj^[
FYUSBDU Yeea_[iWX_jceh[m^_b[\ehc_d]WYh_iiYheiifWjj[hded
[WY^ ed[$ 8Wa[" ed[ i^[[j Wj W j_c[" kdj_b j^[ Yeea_[i
N  .BLFTBCPVU Wh[b_]^jboXhemd[Z"'+c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb_dj^[fWd\eh+
c_dkj[i"j^[djhWdi\[hjeWm_h[hWYajeYeebYecfb[j[bo$

',& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


aRSS TV[TR_O_RNQ
dVaU QNaR`

5)&  '- "703  " /%  5& 9 5 63&  of this dense DVQQMVTUFBTQPPO

and sticky gingerbread is irresistible. Adding EBSLUFGGºPVS


dates is probably gilding the lily, but they make a DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

good thing even better. DVQDPSOTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH
 >[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ B_d[ Wd .#_dY^ igkWh[ YWa[ QPXEFS
fWdm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
 9ecX_d[ )À* Ykf e\ j^[ j[\\ Åekh m_j^ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

YehdijWhY^" XWa_d] ieZW" XWa_d] femZ[h" iWbj" nWdj^Wd HVN


]kc"Ybel[i"Y_ddWced"WdZ]_d][h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

 ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ ik]Wh kdj_b DMPWFT
b_]^jWdZÅk\\o"j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]$7ZZj^[cebWii[i UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

WdZ 'À( Ykf ^ej mWj[h" WdZ X[Wj kdj_b iceej^" WXekj )& DJOOBNPO
i[YedZi$ 8[Wj _d j^[ Åekh c_njkh[$ Jeii j^[ ZWj[i m_j^ UFBTQPPOTHSPVOE
j^[h[cW_d_d]j[Wifeedj[\\Åekh"jefh[l[djj^[c\hec HJOHFS
ij_Ya_d] je][j^[h" WdZ ij_h _d$ Fekh j^[ XWjj[h _dje j^[ TUJDL PVODFT

fh[fWh[ZfWd$8Wa[kdj_bÄhcWdZWd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
Yec[iekjYb[Wd"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo TPGUFOFE
_d j^[ fWd X[\eh[ jkhd_d] ekj$ :kij m_j^ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ DVQTVHBS

ik]Wh$9kj_d^Wb\"WdZj^[dYkj[WY^^Wb\_dje*eh+XWhi$ MBSHFFHH
DVQEBSLNPMBTTFT

.FEKPPMEBUFT QJUUFE
BOEDIPQQFE
$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS

N  4FSWFTUP

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 161


_VPR SY\b_
TV[TR_O_RNQ P\d`

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS  *  -*7&  */ /03 5 )&3/  California, so I make


QMVTFYUSBGPSSPMMJOH gingerbread cows every holiday season instead of
DPPLJFT snowmen, and hang some of them on the Christ-
DVQDPSOTUBSDI mas tree. (One memorable year, a friend’s basset
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU hound thought this was a super idea, so now I
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO place them higher up.) These crisp, German-style
HVN cookies can be left plain or decorated with frost-
UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB ing, and of course you can use any kind of cookie
UFBTQPPOHSPVOE cutter you like. If you want to utilize your ginger-
HJOHFS bread cookies as tree decorations, make a hole in
UFBTQPPOHSPVOE each one with a skewer before baking, and thread
DJOOBNPO with ribbon after they cool.
UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

DMPWFT
DVQEBSLNPMBTTFT  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d]
DVQTVHBS i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d]
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]"
CVUUFS Wi_jckijX[YebZ$
 C_n j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ
N  . BLFT BQQSPYJNBUFMZ  YehdijWhY^m_j^j^[iWbj"nWdj^Wd
 CZ JODIFTFBDI ]kc" XWa_d] ieZW" ]_d][h"
Y_ddWced"WdZYbel[i$
 >[Wj j^[ cebWii[i je j^[
Xe_b_d] fe_dj _d W c[Z_kc
iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj"
WdZij_h_dj^[ik]WhWdZXkjj[h$
H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj$ Ij_h _d

',( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


j^[Åekhc_njkh[ed[#j^_hZWjWj_c["Wbed]m_j^'je(
jWXb[ifeedimWj[h"_\d[[Z[Z"jecWa[WmehaWXb[Zek]^$
JkhdekjedjeWb_]^jboh_Y[#Åekh[Zikh\WY[WdZad[WZW
\[mj_c[ikdj_bi_baoiceej^$9kjj^[XWbbe\Zek]^_d^Wb\
WdZmeham_j^ed[i[Yj_edWjWj_c[$
 :kij_d] j^[ Zek]^ b_]^jbo m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh" hebb ekj 'À*
_dY^ j^_Ya$ Ki_d] W h_Y[#Åekh[Z Yeea_[ Ykjj[h" Ykj ekj
Wi cWdo ]_d][hXh[WZ Ä]kh[i Wi feii_Xb[" h[hebb_d] j^[
jh_cc_d]i je cWa[ ceh[$ ?j¼i [Wi_[ij je b_\j WmWo j^[
[nY[iiZek]^\hecWhekdZj^[Yeea_[i"WdZj^[djhWdi\[h
j^[cjej^[XWa_d]i^[[jedWc[jWbifWjkbW$8Wa[kdj_b
j^[ Yeea_[i fk\\ kf ib_]^jbo WdZ b_]^j[d je W jWd Yebeh"
,je-c_dkj[i$B[jYeebedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j\eh+c_dkj[i"
j^[d fbWY[ ed W m_h[ hWYa$ H[f[Wj m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d]
Zek]^$ ?\ Z[YehWj_d] m_j^ \heij_d]" b[j j^[ Yeea_[i Yeeb
Yecfb[j[boÄhij$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 163


_VPR SY\b_ cN[VY YN dNSR_`

UBCMFTQPPOT 4&37 & 5 )& 4& $3*41 : .*/*"5 63& wafers


TUJDL
VOTBMUFE with any creamy dessert, including French Choc-
CVUUFS TPGUFOFE olate Mousse (page 206), or Quick Mango Sor-
DVQTVHBS bet (page 207). You can also sandwich them to-
MBSHFFHH gether with melted dark chocolate, and enjoy with
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB a cup of coffee.
FYUSBDU
DVQDPSOTUBSDI

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+–<$ B_d[ W XWa_d] i^[[j m_j^
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU fWhY^c[djfWf[h"WdZÄjWfWijhoXW]m_j^W)À.#_dY^fbW_d
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO hekdZc[jWbj_f$
HVN  9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ ik]Wh je][j^[h kdj_b iceej^"
j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]WdZlWd_bbW$I_\jj^[YehdijWhY^"h_Y[
Åekh"iWbj"WdZnWdj^Wd]kcel[hj^[Xemb"WdZ\ebZ_d$
JhWdi\[h je j^[ fWijho XW]" WdZ f_f[ ekj '#_dY^ XbeXi"
' _dY^ WfWhj" ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j$ <bWjj[d [WY^ Yeea_[
][djbom_j^j^[XWYae\WifeedZ_ff[Z_dmWj[hjefh[l[dj
N  .BLFTBCPVU ij_Ya_d]$8Wa[kdj_bj^[Yeea_[iWh[j_d][Z]ebZ[dXhemd
WhekdZj^[[Z][i"'&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebedWhWYa$

',* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


]V[R [ba dNSR_`

#" 4&% 0/ " 1 016 - " 3 Italian cookie, these MBSHFFHHT
airy, delicate wafers go perfectly with espresso or DVQTVHBS

ice cream. Pine nuts (pignoli) can be found in DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

natural foods stores and Italian groceries. DVQDPSOTUBSDI

(SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM
MFNPO
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] UPUBCMFTQPPOTQJOF
i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] OVUT
i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]"
Wi_jckijX[YebZ$
 8[Wjj^[[]]ikdj_bm[bbYecX_d[Z"(&i[YedZi"j^[d
]hWZkWbboWZZj^[ik]Wh$9edj_dk[X[Wj_d]jej^[h_XXed
ijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$FbWY[WÄd[i_[l[el[hj^[Xemb"
WdZ WZZ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ YehdijWhY^$ I^Wa[ el[h j^[
c_njkh["WdZ\ebZ_d$7ZZj^[b[cedp[ij"WdZ\ebZ_d$
 Meha_d] m_j^ ^Wb\ j^[ XWjj[h Wj W j_c[" Zhef Xo
j[Wifeed\kbiedjeWXWa_d]i^[[j"b[Wl_d]'_dY^ifWY[i
X[jm[[d j^[c$ Jef [WY^ Yeea_[ m_j^ * eh + f_d[ dkji$ N  .BLFTBCPVU
8Wa[kdj_bfWb[]ebZ"'(je'+c_dkj[i$Fh[fWh[j^[i[YedZ
XWjY^m^_b[j^[ÄhijXWjY^XWa[i$B[Wl[j^[Yeea_[ied
j^[XWa_d]i^[[ji\eh+c_dkj[iX[\eh[jhWdi\[hh_d]j^[c
jeWm_h[hWYajeYeebYecfb[j[bo$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_` 165


jWhjiWdZf_[i
% 0/ ± 5  #&  " '3 " *%  0'  . " ,*/(  "  piecrust. Armed with a food pro-
cessor, a roll of plastic wrap, and a rolling pin, anyone can do it. And even
experienced cooks (not to mention experienced eaters) are amazed by the
tender qualities of pastry made with rice flour. There are two secrets. One is
rolling the dough out between two sheets of plastic wrap, which not only keeps
warm hands off it but avoids adding extra flour, which makes any pastry
cardboard-y. The other secret is making sure that your creation is enjoyed soon
after baking, so that the filling contrasts with the crisp pastry. The only
exceptions are tarts filled with chopped or ground-nut mixtures, which will
keep for two or three days without softening. Double-crust pies made with
gluten-free pastry are also easy to achieve—I’ve included an apple pie, but you
can use any fruit you like.

',-
_VPR SY\b_ aN_a `URYY

5)& 4& */4 536 $ 5*0/4 -0 0, -&/( 5):  DVQTCSPXOSJDFºPVS


but the actual process is quick. Set out everything DVQDPSOTUBSDI

you need beforehand except the butter, which UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

should be taken out of the refrigerator just before HVN


you use it. If you plan to make a savory quiche or UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

tart, omit the sugar. This pastry is more fragile UBCMFTQPPOTVHBS


than the wheat-flour variety, with a delectable PNJUGPSTBWPSZUBSUT
crunch. The dough (or the semibaked shells) can PSRVJDIFT

be frozen. UBCMFTQPPOT 


TUJDLT
VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
DPME DVUJOTNBMM
 9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"iWbj" DVCFT
WdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZ MBSHFFHH
j^[Xkjj[h"WdZfkbi[kdj_b_j\ehcif[W#i_p[Zbkcfi$7ZZ
j^[[]]"WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZWjWXb[ifeede\
_Y[mWj[h"WdZfkbi[+eh,j_c[ijecWa[WXWbbe\Zek]^
j^WjXWh[boYb_d]ije][j^[h$
 Jkhdj^[Zek]^ekj"YhkcXiWdZWbb"WdZ\ehc_dje N  . BLFTUXPJ ODIQBTUSZ
W be] m_j^ oekh Ykff[Z ^WdZi$ 9kj e\\ WXekj ^Wb\ j^[ TIFMMT PSPOFJ ODIBOE
POFJ ODIT IFMM
Zek]^mhWfWdZh[\h_][hWj[j^[h[cW_dZ[h"WdZfbWY[
edWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf$Jefm_j^Wi[YedZi^[[je\
fbWij_YmhWf"WdZhebbekj'À._dY^j^_Ya"\ehc_d]W'&#eh
''#_dY^Y_hYb[$?ji^ekbZX[(_dY^[im_Z[hj^Wdj^[jWhj
fWdoekfbWdjeki[$?\j^[[Z][ibeeahek]^"b_\jj^[jef
i^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"jkYaj^[c_d"j^[dhebbb_]^jboje
_dYehfehWj[$ Jkhd j^[ fWijho el[h je Y^[Ya \eh Wd [l[d
j^_Yad[ii$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 169


 F[[b e\\ j^[ jef bWo[h e\ fbWij_Y mhWf" WdZ Åef j^[
Zek]^ _dje j^[ jWhj fWd$ H[cel[ j^[ i[YedZ bWo[h e\
fbWij_YmhWf$?\_jij_Yai"fbWY[j^[fWd"fbWij_YWdZWbb"ed
WYeea_[i^[[jWdZh[\h_][hWj[\eh'&c_dkj[i$;Wi[j^[
Zek]^W]W_dijj^[i_Z[im_j^ekjijh[jY^_d]_j"cWa_d]W
b_jjb[fekY^edj^[_di_Z[h_c$J^_imWo"j^[[Z][e\j^[
jWhji^[bbm_bbX[j^_Ya[h$Fki^j^[Zek]^W]W_dijj^[Åkj[Z
i_Z[iWdZjh_c[l[dm_j^j^[jefe\j^[fWd$?\j^[h[Wh[
Wdo^eb[iehj^_dfbWY[i"`kijfWjY^m_j^j^[jh_cc_d]i$
Fh_Ya W \[m ^eb[i _d j^[ XWi[$ I[Ykh[ j^[ fWijho h_c
Xofki^_d]_jl[hoib_]^jboel[hj^[jefe\j^[fWdi[[
X[bem$FbWY[j^[fWd_dj^[\h[[p[h\eh'&c_dkj[i$MhWf
WdZ h[\h_][hWj[ Wdo Zek]^ jh_cc_d]i _d YWi[ oek d[[Z
j^[c\ehfWjY^_d]bWj[h$
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$
 8Wa[j^[i^[bb\eh'+c_dkj[ikdj_bÄhcWdZ`kijijWhj_d]
jeYebeh$Ikffehj_d]j^[fWd\heckdZ[hd[Wj^iej^[h_d]
Ze[id¼jYec[beei["jhWdi\[hjeWhWYaWdZb[jYeebX[\eh[
Äbb_d]$<ehW\kbboYeea[Zi^[bb"XWa[\eh)&c_dkj[i$

-NA>=GEJC=1=NP0DAHH

Je ^[bf cWa[ ikh[ j^Wj W fWijho i^[bb h[cW_di Yh_if _d
h[bWj_ed je j^[ Äbb_d]" _j i^ekbZ X[ fh[XWa[Z `kij kdj_b
Ähc Xkj dej Yebeh[Z$ >em[l[h" XWa_d] Wd [cfjo i^[bb
^Wi _ji f[h_bi0 j^[ i_Z[i ibkcf WdZ j^[ XWi[ fk\\i kf$
Ceijh[Y_f[iik]][ijb_d_d]_jm_j^Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc
\e_b WdZ Zh_[Z X[Wdi" Xkj j^_i h_iai j[Wh_d] j^[ j[dZ[h

'-& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


fWijho m^[d oek b_\j j^[ \e_b$ Fhe\[ii_edWb fWijho Y^[\i
^Wl[WX[jj[hc[j^eZ0j^[o`kijfh[iij^[fWijhokfWdZ
l[hoib_]^jboel[hj^[i_Z[iiej^WjW'À',#_dY^b_fe\fWijho
h[ijiedjefe\j^[h_c"m^_Y^WdY^ehi_j$:ed¼jcWa[
j^_i jee [njh[c[ eh j^[ XWa[Z i^[bb c_]^j Xh[Wa m^[d
oek kdcebZ _j$ <h[[p[ j^[ i^[bb \eh '& c_dkj[i X[\eh[
XWa_d]$9^[YaW\j[h+c_dkj[ie\XWa_d]j_c[$?\j^[XWi[
^WiXWbbeed[Z¸_jkikWbboZe[id¼j¸gk_YaboZ[ÅWj[m_j^
Wad_\[j_f$

-NA>=GA@1=NP0DAHH#ENOPE@

?\ W fh[XWa[Z fWijho i^[bb i^ekbZ Z[l[bef YhWYai Wi _j


XWa[i"kikWbboj^[h[ikbje\ijh[jY^_d]j^[Zek]^"Zed¼j
fWd_Y$>W_hb_d[YhWYaiZed¼jcWjj[h"Xkjm_Z[hed[imekbZ
b[jj^[Äbb_d][iYWf[$B[jj^[i^[bbYeeb"j^[di_cfbohebb
icWbb f_[Y[i e\ b[\jel[h" heec j[cf[hWjkh[ hWm fWijho
Zek]^ _dje b_jjb[ hef[i WdZ ][djbo iceej^ j^[c _d
fei_j_ed" eh \ehc W bWh][h" ÅWj fWjY^ \eh W YhWYa[Z h_c$
J^[dÄbbj^[jWhjWdZXWa[_j$Deed[m_bb[l[hadem$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 171


]RPN[ aN_a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 53 "%*5*0/"-  */(3&%*&/ 5 4  64&%  */


4IFMM QBHF
IBMG a different way turn this tart into an elegant fi-
CBLFEBOEDPPMFE nale for a holiday meal. Unlike creamy or
UBCMFTQPPOTBQSJDPU fruit-filled tarts, it will keep for two or three days
KBN IFBUFE TJFWFE  in the refrigerator without the pastry shell losing
BOEDPPMFETMJHIUMZ its tender crispness. If you want to make a good
DVQ PVODFT
 thing even better, bake the tart without the pecan
QFDBOT QMVTIBMWFT decoration, let cool, cover with the dark chocolate
GPSEFDPSBUJPO glaze used on the Chocolate Éclairs (page 196),
DVQTVHBS arrange the pecan halves on top, and let stand un-
UBCMFTQPPOT  til set.
TUJDL
VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
TPGUFOFE
MBSHFFHHT  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$
UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN  I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$
UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO Ifh[WZj^[`Wc][djboel[hj^[XWi["ki_d]j^[XWYae\W
SJDFºPVS ifeed$
 9ecX_d[j^[f[YWdiWdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"
N  4FSWFT WdZ fheY[ii je W Äd[ c[Wb$ 7ZZ j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ fhe#
Y[iijeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[[]]iWdZhkc"WdZfheY[iikdj_b
iceej^$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZfheY[ii`kijbed][dek]^
jec_n$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifh[WZ_dj^[jWhji^[bb
edjefe\j^[`WcWdZWhhWd][j^[f[YWd^Wbl[iWhekdZ
j^[ [Z][" b_a[ j^[ dkc[hWbi ed W YbeYa$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[
ikh\WY[_i]ebZ[dWdZj^[fWijho_i]ebZ[dXhemd"WXekj
)+ c_dkj[i$ FbWY[ j^[ fWd ed W m_h[ hWYa WdZ b[j Yeeb$
KdcebZ"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[jWhjjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$

'-( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


2JIKH@EJC=1=NPBNKI=) KKOA  =OA@ 

1=NPKN.QE?DA-=J

I[jj^[Yeeb[ZjWhjfWdel[hWdkdef[d[ZYWdWdZb[jj^[
Åkj[Zh_c\WbbZemd$J^[jWhjYWdj^[dX[jhWdi\[hh[Z"ij_bb
edj^[XWi["jeWfbWjj[h$7bj[hdWj_l[bo"YWh[\kbboib_Z[j^[
ÅWjXWi[\hecWi[YedZjWhjfWdX[jm[[dj^[fWijhoWdZ
j^[XWi[e\j^[fWd_jmWiXWa[Z_d"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[jWhj
jeWÅWjfbWjj[h$Ceijc[jWbifWjkbWiWh[jeedWhhem\eh
WZ[gkWj[ikffehj$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 173


NYZ\[Q _ N`]OR__ f aN_a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 5 80 ( - " ;& 4 ­ " 13*$05 " /% - &.0/ ­


4IFMM QBHF
IBMG top this scrumptious tart, which is claimed by the
CBLFEBOEDPPMFE Swedes as an Alexandertorte, and by the English
DVQSBTQCFSSZKBN  as a Bakewell Tart. Unlike creamy, filled tarts,
IFBUFE this one will keep refrigerated for three days
DVQ PVODFT
XIPMF without losing its crispness.
BMNPOET
DVQTVHBS

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$
VOTBMUFECVUUFS   I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$
TPGUFOFE Ifh[WZj^[`Wc][djboel[hj^[XWi["ki_d]j^[XWYae\W
MBSHFFHHT ifeed$
UBCMFTQPPOTXIJUFSJDF  9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZiWdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"
ºPVS WdZfheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZfheY[ii
jeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[[]]i"WdZfheY[iikdj_biceej^$7ZZ
g l a ze s j^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZfheY[ii`kijbed][dek]^jec_n$
DVQBQSJDPUKBN   Ki_d] W hkXX[h ifWjkbW" ifh[WZ j^[ WbcedZ c_njkh[
IFBUFEBOETJFWFE edjefe\j^[`WcWdZiceej^j^[ikh\WY[$8Wa[kdj_bj^[
DVQDPOGFDUJPOFST± Äbb_d]_i]ebZ[dWdZib_]^jboZec[Z"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$7d
TVHBS TJGUFE _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya i^ekbZ [c[h][ Yb[Wd$ FbWY[ j^[ fWd
UPUBCMFTQPPOT edWm_h[hWYa"WdZb[jj^[jWhjYeebX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]$
MFNPOKVJDF JhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$
 8hki^j^[ikh\WY[e\j^[jWhjm_j^j^[Wfh_Yej]bWp[WdZ
N  4FSWFT b[j i[j" WXekj ' ^ekh$ Ij_h j^[ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh m_j^
`kij[dek]^b[ced`k_Y[jecWa[Whkddo\heij_d]"WdZ
Xhki^ehZh_ppb[edjef$

'-* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_NV`V[ d NY[ba aN_a

# " 4&%  0/  " /  0-%  Scottish recipe, the rich JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU


fruit filling is balanced by a splash of raspberry 4IFMM QBHF
IBMG
vinegar. The tart will hold well, refrigerated, for CBLFEBOEDPPMFE
three days. Should it last that long, which is un- UBCMFTQPPOTQBDLFE
likely. It also freezes well. EBSLCSPXOTVHBS
UBCMFTQPPOT
TUJDL
VOTBMUFE
 >[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[ CVUUFS NFMUFEBOE
fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$ DPPMFEUPMVLFXBSN
 9ecX_d[ j^[ Xhemd ik]Wh" Xkjj[h" l_d[]Wh" WdZ []]" UBCMFTQPPOSBTQCFSSZ
WdZc_nm[bb$Ij_h_dj^[hW_i_diWdZZh_[Z\hk_j"WdZWZZ WJOFHBSPSPUIFS
j^[ mWbdkji$ Ifeed [l[dbo _dje j^[ fWijho i^[bb$ 8Wa[ NFMMPXSFEXJOF
kdj_bj^[fWijho_i]ebZ[dWdZj^[Äbb_d]_iÄhc"WXekj)& WJOFHBS
c_dkj[i$ MBSHFFHH
 FbWY[ j^[ fWd ed W m_h[ hWYa" WdZ b[j j^[ jWhj Yeeb DVQSBJTJOT

X[\eh[kdcebZ_d]$JhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$:kijb_]^jbo DVQNJYFEESJFEGSVJU

m_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh$ DVSSBOUT XIPMFESJFE


DIFSSJFT DIPQQFE
QJUUFEQSVOFT

DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT

$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS

N  4FSWFTUP

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 175


[ba P_ bZO P_ b`a

DVQT PVODFT
 5)*4  4*.1-&  $364 5 8 )*$)  you can pat
BMNPOET into a pie pan or roll out, also makes a good base
UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS for a cheesecake.
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

UFBTQPPOBMMTQJDF

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL
  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+–<$>Wl[h[WZoW/#_dY^]bWii
VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME  f_[fWd$
DVUVQ  9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZi"ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZWbbif_Y[_d
W\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h"
WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åokdj_bYeWhi[YhkcXi\ehc$
 ;_j^[h fh[ii j^[ YhkcXi _dje j^[ f_[ fWd m_j^ oekh
Äd][hieh"\ehWd[Wj[hh[ikbj"hebbX[jm[[djmei^[[jie\
fbWij_YmhWf_djeW'&#_dY^Y_hYb[$F_Yakfj^[jefi^[[j
WdZ\ebZj^[hek]^[Z][i_dmWhZ"j^[dh[fbWY[j^[fbWij_Y
mhWfWdZhebbW]W_djecWa[WY_hYb[m_j^Wiceej^[Z][$
F[[be\\j^[jefi^[[je\mhWf"_dl[hjj^[f_[fWdel[hj^[
Yhkij" WdZ jkhd j^[ m^eb[ j^_d] h_]^j i_Z[ kf$ H[cel[
N  .BLFTPOFJ ODIQJFDSVTU j^[h[cW_d_d]fbWij_YmhWf"WdZh[fW_hWdofheXb[cWh[Wi
m_j^oekhÄd][hi$8Wa[kdj_bÄhcWdZW]ebZ[d#jWdYebeh"
WXekj(&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebX[\eh[Äbb_d]$

'-, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


`a_NdOR__ f²P_RNZ PURR`R aN_a

5)&  $) " 3.  0'  "  good berry tart lies in the JODI/VU$SVNC$SVTU 
contrast of crisp pastry and luscious filling. To be GVMMZCBLFE QBHF

at its best, it should be enjoyed within a couple of BOEDPPMFE
hours of being made, except for the pastry shell, UBCMFTQPPOTSFE
which you can bake ahead. Be sure to choose DVSSBOUKFMMZ NFMUFE
small, sweet, aromatic strawberries, not the hard, QPVOEGSFTIDSFBN

tasteless ones with white centers so beloved by DIFFTF


supermarkets for their shipping qualities and long UBCMFTQPPOTUIJDL
shelf life. (SFFLZPHVSU
TFFCFMPX

UBCMFTQPPOTBMMCVUUFS
 B[Wl[j^[jWhji^[bb_dj^[f_[fWd"\ehikffehj$8hki^ MFNPODVSE
j^[XWi[e\j^[jWhji^[bbm_j^(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[YkhhWdj QJOUTNBMM SJQF
`[bbo$ TUSBXCFSSJFT 
 9ecX_d[j^[Yh[WcY^[[i["oe]khj"WdZb[cedYkhZ_d QSFGFSBCMZPSHBOJD 
W\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZXb[dZkdj_biceej^$Ifeedel[hj^[ IBMWFE
`[bbo"WdZiceej^j^[ikh\WY[$Jefm_j^j^[ijhWmX[hh_[i" UBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE
WdZ]bWp[j^[cm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediYkhhWdj BMNPOET MJHIUMZ
`[bbo$ UPBTUFE PQUJPOBM
 H[\h_][hWj[\eh)&c_dkj[iehkfje(^ekhi$KdcebZ"
jhWdi\[h je W ÅWj fbWjj[h" WdZ iYWjj[h N  4FSWFTUP
m_j^ib_Y[ZWbcedZi"_\ki_d]$

$NAAG6KCQNP
7kj^[dj_Y=h[[aoe]khj_icWZ[\hec
m^eb[ c_ba WdZ _i ZhW_d[Z e\ m^[o"
b[Wl_d] _j Wi j^_Ya Wi iekh Yh[Wc$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 177


JejWb_ij^[XhWdZceijh[WZ_boWlW_bWXb[$JecWa[oekh
emd" b_d[ W YebWdZ[h m_j^ i[l[hWb bWo[hi e\ ZWcf[d[Z
Y^[[i[Ybej^WdZfbWY[el[hWXemb$7ZZW)(#ekdY[jkX
e\fbW_dm^eb[c_bafh[\[hWXboYh[Wc#jefoe]khjWdZb[j
Zh_fel[hd_]^j"h[\h_][hWj[Z$CWa[iWXekj)Ykfi$

'-. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


_VPR SY\b_ ]N`aN S _\YYN

*5"-*"/  4 8 && 5  4)03 5$364 5  1" 4 53:  DVQTCSPXOSJDFºPVS


or pasta frolla, is exceptionally tender. It’s easy to DVQDPSOTUBSDI

make in a food processor, but should it start to UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

become sticky while being rolled, just pop the HVN


dough, pan and all, into the refrigerator for 10 UFBTQPPOCBLJOH

minutes, then continue where you left off. QPXEFS


DVQTVHBS

1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"XWa_d] UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL

femZ[h" ik]Wh" iWbj" Xkjj[h" WdZ b[ced p[ij" _\ ki_d]" VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME 
_d W \eeZ fheY[iieh$ FheY[ii Xh_[Åo kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ DVUVQ
h[i[cXb[iYeWhi[c[Wb$7ZZj^[[]]iWdZ'jWXb[ifeed UFBTQPPOHSBUFE

YebZ mWj[h" WdZ fheY[ii `kij bed] [dek]^ je YecX_d[ MFNPO[FTU PQUJPOBM
_djeWhek]^XWbb$JkhdekjedjeWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf" MBSHFFHHTMJHIUMZ
YhkcXiWdZWbb"WdZfki^je][j^[h_djeWbe]$9kj_dje CFBUFO
)[gkWbf_[Y[iehWYYehZ_d]je_dijhkYj_edi\ehH_YejjW
JWhj"fW]['.&"[dYbei[_dfbWij_YmhWf"WdZh[\h_][hWj[
\eh'^ekhehkfje(*^ekhi$ N  . BLFTUISFFJ ODIUBSU
TIFMMTPSUIFCBTFBOE
MBUUJDFUPQGPS3JDPUUB5BSU 
QBHF

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 179


_VP\aaN aN_a

SFDJQF3JDF'MPVS1BTUB 1&3) " 1 4  & 7 &/  .03&  " %%*$ 5 *7 &  than
'SPMMB QBHF
a New York–style cheesecake, this dessert is
 QPVOETSJDPUUB 
 based on a very old Roman specialty. Creamy but
QSFGFSBCMZXIPMFNJML not cloying, it’s hard to resist seconds.
DVQTVHBS

MBSHFFHHT
UBCMFTQPPO.BSTBMBPS  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$8kjj[hW/#_dY^ifh_d]\ehc
EBSLSVN fWd$
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB  KdmhWfj^[Zek]^WdZYkje\\ed[#j^_hZ\ehj^[bWjj_Y[
FYUSBDU jef$FbWY[_jX[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf"hebb_djeW
UBCMFTQPPOCSPXOSJDF '&s.#_dY^h[YjWd]b["WdZh[\h_][hWj["ÅWj$
ºPVS  FbWY[j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^X[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_Y
UBCMFTQPPOT$BOEJFE mhWfWdZhebb_djeW'*#_dY^Y_hYb[$F[[be\\j^[jefi^[[j
0SBOHF1FFM QBHF e\fbWij_YmhWfWdZÅefj^[Zek]^_djej^[fWd$H[cel[

PSTUPSFCPVHIU  j^[i[YedZi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"[Wi[j^[Zek]^W]W_dij
EJDFE j^[ Xejjec WdZ i_Z[i e\ j^[ fWd m_j^ekj ijh[jY^_d] _j"
(SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM WdZjh_c[l[dm_j^j^[jef$
PSBOHF  ?dWbWh][Xemb"ij_hje][j^[hj^[h_YejjWWdZik]Wh$8[Wj
UBCMFTQPPOTHPMEFO _d)m^eb[[]]iWdZ'[]]m^_j[h[i[hl[j^[oeba"ed[Wj
SBJTJOT W j_c[$ Ij_h _d j^[ CWhiWbW" lWd_bbW" h_Y[ Åekh" YWdZ_[Z
UBCMFTQPPOTQJOFOVUT ehWd][ f[[b" ehWd][
p[ij"WdZhW_i_di$Fekh
N  4FSWFT j^[ c_njkh[ _dje j^[
Yhkij$IYWjj[hj^[f_d[
dkji[l[dboedjef$

'.& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


 9kj j^[ h[i[hl[Z fWijho _dje j[d 'À(#_dY^#m_Z[ ijh_fi$
<ehcWbWjj_Y[edjefe\j^[Äbb_d]"jh_cc_d]jeÄj$Ki_d]W
ad_\[XbWZ[jebeei[d_j\hecj^[fWdÄhij"\ebZj^[[nY[ii
fWijho Zemd je Yel[h j^[ [Z][i e\ j^[ bWjj_Y[$ 8b[dZ j^[
h[i[hl[Z []] oeba m_j^ ' j[Wifeed mWj[h" WdZ Xhki^ j^[
fWijhoikh\WY[im_j^_j$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YhkijXhemdiWdZj^[
Äbb_d]_ii[j"*+c_dkj[i$B[jijWdZ\eh+c_dkj[i$Beei[d
j^[i_Z[ie\j^[jWhjm_j^Wad_\[XbWZ["j^[dh[b[Wi[j^[fWd
h_c$JhWdi\[hjeWm_h[hWYa"ij_bbedj^[XWi["WdZb[jYeeb$
Beei[dj^[XejjecYhkij\hecj^[fWdXWi[m_j^Wm_Z[
c[jWbifWjkbW"WdZib_Z[j^[jWhjedjeWÅWji[hl_d]fbWjj[h$
I[hl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh[$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 181


PN[QVRQ \_N[TR ]RRY

PSBOHFT '03  40.&  3& " 40/  $ " /%*&%  orange


DVQT QPVOE
TVHBS  peel seems to be available in grocery stores only
QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS during the holiday season. The supermarket kind
DPBUJOH isn’t worth buying, and the imported or
European-style variety, though delicious, is wildly
expensive. The alternative is to make your own.
Invaluable for baking, it can also be turned into a
delightful after-dinner candy. Simply half dip the
sugar-coated strips in melted dark chocolate, and
let set.

 9kjWicWbbib_Y[e\\j^[jefWdZXejjece\[WY^ehWd][$
CWa[\ekhl[hj_YWbYkji"j^hek]^j^[f[[bedbo"Wj[gkWb
_dj[hlWbi$Fkbbe\\j^[f[[b_d\ekhgkWhj[hi"h[i[hl_d]j^[
\hk_j\ehWdej^[hki[$
 FbWY[ j^[ f[[b _d W fWd" WdZ Yel[h m_j^ YebZ mWj[h$
N  .BLFTBCPVUDVQT 8h_d] je W Xe_b WdZ j^[d ZhW_d$ H[f[Wj jm_Y[ ceh[" je
b[WY^ekjWdoX_jj[hd[ii$M^[dYeeb[dek]^je^WdZb["
fWh[e\\Wb_jjb[e\j^[m^_j[f_j^_\_j_il[hoj^_Ya"XkjZe
dejh[cel[_jWbbehj^[f[[bm_bb^WhZ[dm^[dYWdZ_[Z$
9kj[WY^i[Yj_ed_d^Wb\b[d]j^mWoi$
 9ecX_d[j^[ik]Whm_j^(YkfiYebZmWj[h_dW^[Wlo
fWd"WdZXh_d] je W Xe_b$ I_cc[h \eh + c_dkj[i" j^[d
WZZj^[f[[b$I_cc[h][djbo\eh'^ekh"WdZb[jYeeb_d
j^[iohkf$ H[cel[ j^[ f[[bWdZYkj _dje 'À*#_dY^#m_Z[

'.( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


ijh_fi$B[jZhoel[hd_]^jedWm_h[hWYai[jel[hWi^[[j
e\Wbkc_dkc\e_bjeYWjY^j^[Zh_fi$9el[hWfbWj[m_j^
ik]Wh"WdZhebbj^[ijh_fi_d_j$B[jZhoekj\ehW\[mceh[
^ekhi ed W Yb[Wd" Zho m_h[ hWYa$ FbWY[ _d Wd W_hj_]^j
YedjW_d[h"WdZijeh[_dj^[h[\h_][hWjeheh\h[[p[h$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 183


_VPU P\_[ZRNY ]VRP_ b`a

DVQDPSONFBM  40  $36/$) :  " /%  %&-&$ 5" #-&  that


QSFGFSBCMZTUPOF you can make cookies with it, this piecrust pro-
HSPVOE vides just the right contrast for the tender fruit
DVQTXFFUXIJUFSJDF filling. As regular cornmeal is on the coarse side,
ºPVS I whirl it in a food processor for 2 minutes to get
DVQDPSOTUBSDI a finer texture. To make cornmeal cookies, roll
DVQTVHBS the dough 1 ⁄4 inch thick, and cut them out with a
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO 21 ⁄2-inch cutter. Brush the cookies with cream or
HVN milk, and sprinkle with sugar before baking at
UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU 350°F until golden brown at the edges, about 15
UBCMFTQPPOT  minutes.
TUJDLT
VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
DPME DVUJOTNBMM
DVCFT FheY[iij^[Yehdc[Wb_dW\eeZfheY[iieh\eh(c_dkj[i
MBSHFFHH kdj_bceh[Äd[bo]hekdZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^"
ik]Wh"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj"WdZfheY[iijeYecX_d[$
7ZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZfkbi[kdj_b_j\ehcif[W#i_p[Zbkcfi$
N  . BLFTPOFJ ODIEPVCMF 7ZZj^[[]]"WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZ'jWXb[ifeed
DSVTUQJFTIFMMPSUXP  _Y[mWj[h"WdZfheY[iiXh_[ÅojecWa[WXWbbe\Zek]^j^Wj
PQFOG BDFEQJFTIFMMT
XWh[boYb_d]ije][j^[h"WZZ_d]Wdej^[hj[Wifeede\mWj[h
_\ d[Y[iiWho je cWa[ W ZWcf Zek]^$ Jkhd j^[ Zek]^
ekj" YhkcXi WdZ Wbb" edje W i^[[j e\ fbWij_Y mhWf" WdZ
\ehc_djeWbe]m_j^oekhYkff[Z^WdZi$9kj_d^Wb\$J^[
Zek]^_idemh[WZojeki[ehYWdX[[dYbei[Z_dfbWij_Y
mhWfWdZh[\h_][hWj[Z\ehkfje(*^ekhi$

'.* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


N]]YR ]VR dVaU N _VPU
P\_ [ZRNY P_ b`a

*'  :0 6  ) " /, &3 " ' 5 &3  a double-crust pie, PS'VKJPS#SBFCVSO


here’s how to make one with a tempting gluten-free BQQMFT QFFMFE DPSFE 
crust. Naturally, you can substitute 5 cups of any IBMWFE BOEDVUJOUP
fruit filling you please, but shorten the baking JODIUIJDLTMJDFT

time a little for soft summer fruits. UPNBLFDVQT

(SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO
UBCMFTQPPOTMFNPO
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *(+–<$ >Wl[ h[WZo W /#_dY^ f_[ KVJDF
fWd" fh[\[hWXbo W ^[Wlo Wbkc_dkc ed[ m_j^ W f_[hY[Z DVQHPMEFOSBJTJOT

XWi[ieij[WcYWd[iYWf["m^_Y^^[bfij^[j[njkh[e\j^[ DVQQMVTUBCMFTQPPO

XejjecYhkij$9ecX_d[j^[Wffb[i"b[cedp[ijWdZ`k_Y[" TVHBS
hW_i_di"'À)Ykfe\j^[ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZY_ddWced"jeii UBCMFTQPPOTXIJUFSJDF
jec_nm[bb"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ ºPVS
 Meha_d]m_j^^Wb\j^[Zek]^WjWj_c["hebbekjX[jm[[d UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf"b_\j_d]j^[jefi^[[jWdZjkYa_d] DJOOBNPO
_d j^[ hek]^ [Z][i" _dje ''#_dY^ Y_hYb[i$ I[j ed[ Y_hYb[ 1BTUSZGPS3JDI
Wi_Z[\ehj^[jefYhkij$Ki[j^[ej^[hY_hYb[jeb_d[j^[f_[ $PSONFBM1JFDSVTU
fWd0f[[be\\j^[jefi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWfWdZÅefj^[ QBHF

Zek]^ _dje fbWY[" j^[d YWh[\kbbo f[[b e\\ j^[ h[cW_d_d] UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE
i^[[j$7ZZj^[\hk_j"f_b_d]_jkfib_]^jbo"WdZZejm_j^j^[ CVUUFS DVUJOUPTNBMM
Xkjj[h$9el[hm_j^j^[jefYhkij"i[Wbj^[h_cXoÅkj_d]"eh DVCFT
fh[ii_d]m_j^j^[j_d[ie\W\eha"WdZjh_ce\\Wdo[nY[ii FHHZPML
Zek]^$9ecX_d[j^[[]]oebam_j^'j[WifeedmWj[h"WdZ
Xhki^el[hj^[jef"Xkjdejj^[h_c"Wi_jc_]^j][jjee N  4FSWFTUP
Xhemd$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede\ik]Wh$
9kjW\[mib_ji_dj^[jef\ehij[Wcje[iYWf[$FbWY[j^[
f_[fWdedWXWa_d]i^[[j"jeYWjY^Wdoif_bbi$8Wa[\eh

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR` 185


(&c_dkj[i"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjje)+&–<WdZYedj_dk[
XWa_d] kdj_b j^[ Äbb_d] _i j[dZ[h m^[d f_[hY[Z m_j^ W
dWhhemad_\[XbWZ[j^hek]^ed[e\j^[ib_ji"WdZj^[Yhkij
_i]ebZ[dXhemd"WXekj)&c_dkj[iceh[$A[[fY^[Ya_d]
Wi _j XWa[i" WdZ _\ j^[ jef Xhemd jee \Wij" Yel[h b_]^jbo
m_j^Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc\e_b$I[hl[mWhc"dej^ej$

'., j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


 YWa[iWdZ
Z[ii[h ji
0 /&  0 '  5 )&  . " / :  3& 8" 3%4  */)&3&/ 5  in being a wheat-free
cook is that your cakes are much lighter than anybody else’s. (Hint: professional
pastry chefs choose low-gluten cake flour for a reason; using no-gluten flour
goes one better.) And thanks to using nut flours, and eggs to make them rise as
opposed to lots of baking powder, the cakes here even offer some good nutrition
along with their enticing flavors and textures. Furthermore, since many of the
premium quality ingredients are naturally sweet, you can get away with using
far less sugar than usual.

'.-
S\b_ V [T_RQVR[a P U\P\YNaR d NY[ba
PNXR

5)*4 '  063 * /(3&%*&/5 $)0$0- "5& DVQT PVODFT



cake (or five, if you count a dusting of powdered XBMOVUT
sugar) tastes sinfully rich, but contains no wheat UBCMFTQPPOT
flour, no egg yolks, no butter . . . and no choles- VOTXFFUFOFEOBUVSBM
terol. DPDPBQPXEFS OPU
%VUDIQSPDFTTFE

UBCMFTQPPOT
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ =h[Wi[ j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd &HHCFBUFSTPSPUIFS
.#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWdm_j^Wc_bZ#jWij_d]l[][jWXb[e_b" MJRVJEFHHTVCTUJUVUF
WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ DVQTVHBS
 9ecX_d[j^[mWbdkjiWdZYeYeWfemZ[h_dW\eeZfhe# $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS 
Y[iieh$ Fkbi[ ed WdZ e\\ je \ehc W c[Wbo Yedi_ij[dYo" PQUJPOBM
ijeff_d]m^[dj^[c_njkh[ijWhjijeYb_cXj^[i_Z[ie\
j^[XembWdZj^h[Wj[dijeX[Yec[WfWij[$
 Ki_d] Wd [b[Yjh_Y c_n[h" X[Wj j^[ ;]]X[Wj[hi \eh )&
i[YedZi"j^[dibemboWZZj^[ik]Wh$8[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[
jh_fb[i WdZ h[WZ_[i j^[ h_XXed ijW][" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$
;]]X[Wj[hij^_Ya[dceh[gk_Yaboj^Wdm^eb[[]]i$<ebZ N  4FSWFT

_dj^[mWbdkjc_njkh[_dj^h[[XWjY^[i"ifeed_d]_jWhekdZ
j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb$ J^_i ^[bfi je Wle_Z Z[ÅWj_d] j^[
XWjj[h$
 JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hje
j^[fWd"WdZiceej^j^[
jef$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[
h[i_iji W b_]^j Äd][h
fh[iikh[ WdZ i^h_dai
WmWo ib_]^jbo \hec j^[

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 189


i_Z[ie\j^[fWd"(+je)&c_dkj[i$7d_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya
i^ekbZYec[ekjib_]^jboij_Yao$:edejel[hXWa["Wij^_i
mekbZcWa[j^[YWa[Zho$B[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i"j^[d
jkhd ekj edje W Yeeb_d] hWYa$ J^[ YWa[ _i c[Wdj je X[
gk_j[bem$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"jkhdj^[YWa[h_]^ji_Z[kf
edWi[YedZhWYa"WdZb[jYeeb$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼
ik]Wh"_\ki_d]"WdZjhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$

=GA-=J NA@AJPE=HO

<eh j^[ X[ij XWa_d] h[ikbji" ki[ fhe\[ii_edWb#gkWb_jo"


^[Wlo#]Wk][Wbkc_dkcYWa[fWdim_j^(#_dY^#Z[[fi_Z[i
WdZW,#YkfYWfWY_jo$CWZ[\ehXWa[hoki[WdZWlW_bWXb[
j^hek]^ jef a_jY^[dmWh[ ijeh[i ikY^ Wi M_bb_Wci#
IedecW" j^[o XWa[ [l[dbo WdZ ^ebZ ceh[ j^Wd j^[
Å_cio" jee#i^Wbbem a_dZ" m^_Y^ fhecej[ kd[l[d h_i_d]"
iYehY^_d]"WdZel[hÅemi$7iW][d[hWbhkb["d[l[hÄbbW
YWa[ fWd ceh[ j^Wd jme#j^_hZi \kbb$ B_d_d] W YWa[ fWd
m_j^fWhY^c[djW_Zi_d][jj_d]j^[YWa[ekjiW\[bo"WdZ
^[bfijefh[l[djel[hXhemd_d]j^[kdZ[hi_Z[$

'/& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


PU\P\YNaR U NgRY[ba a_ bSSYR PNXR

) " ;&-/6 5 4  " /%  %" 3,  $  )0 $0- "5&  DVQ PVODFT



a favorite combination in Italian confectionery, IB[FMOVUT
puts this fudgy torta into the deluxe class. PVODFTUP
EBSLDIPDPMBUF ¹OFMZ
DIPQQFE PSDVQ
 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd DIPDPMBUFDIJQT
.#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWdWdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^fWhY^c[dj DVQTVHBS

fWf[h$ UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO
 9ecX_d[j^[^Wp[bdkji"Y^eYebWj["(jWXb[ifeedie\ SJDFºPVS
j^[ik]Wh"j^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZYeYeWfemZ[h_dW\eeZfhe# UBCMFTQPPO
Y[iieh$FheY[iijecWa[WÄd[c[Wbe\[l[dYedi_ij[dYo$ VOTXFFUFOFEOBUVSBM
7ZZj^[ehWd][p[ij$ DPDPBQPXEFS OPU
 9ecX_d[ j^[ []]i WdZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] ik]Wh _d W %VUDIQSPDFTTFE

bWh][Xemb"WdZX[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[h[WY^[ij^[h_XXed QMVTFYUSBGPSEVTUJOH
ijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifeed UPQPGDBLF
j^[ ^Wp[bdkj#Y^eYebWj[ c_njkh[ WhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ UFBTQPPOHSBUFE
XembWdZ\ebZ_d"Z[ÅWj_d]j^[XWjj[hWib_jjb[Wifeii_Xb[$ PSBOHF[FTU
JhWdi\[h je j^[ fWd$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ YWa[ h[i_iji W b_]^j MBSHFFHHT
Äd][hfh[iikh[WdZijWhjijefkbbWmWo\hecj^[i_Z[ie\ $PDPBQPXEFS
j^[fWd"((je(+c_dkj[i$:edejel[hXWa[ehj^[YWa[
m_bbX[Zho_dij[WZe\ib_]^jbo\kZ]o$B[jj^[YWa[Yeeb_d N  4FSWFTUP
j^[ fWd \eh '& c_dkj[i" j^[d hkd W ad_\[ XbWZ[ WhekdZ
j^[ i_Z[i je beei[d _j$ KdcebZ WdZ ][djbo f[[b e\\ j^[
fWhY^c[dj$B[jYeeb"h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWhWYa$:kijb_]^jbo
m_j^YeYeWfemZ[hX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 191


DA=PEJCSEPD DK?KH=PA

=^_hWhZ[bb_"WÄd[ebZYecfWdoXWi[Z_dIWd<hWdY_iYe"
cWa[i [nY[bb[dj ZWha Y^eYebWj[ m_j^ ,& f[hY[dj YWYWe
Xkjj[h\ehWh[WiedWXb[fh_Y[$?\oekYWd¼jÄdZ_j"WdZZed¼j
\[[bb_a[fWo_d]Wfh[c_kc\eh_cfehj[ZZWhaY^eYebWj["
ki[ h[]kbWh ZWha XWa[h¼i Y^eYebWj[ _d W hWj_e e\ j^h[[
fWhjiXWa[h¼iY^eYebWj[jeed[fWhjkdim[[j[d[ZXWa[h¼i
Y^eYebWj[$ J^_i m_bb hW_i[ j^[ YWYWe#Xkjj[h Yedj[dj WdZ
]_l[Wh_Y^[hÅWlehWdZWiceej^[hj[njkh[jeY^eYebWj[
YWa[iWdZ]bWp[i$

'/( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


Rea_N Y VTUa
PU\P\YNaR PNXR

3&.*/*4$&/ 5  0'  " /(&-  '0 0%  cake in DVQDPSOTUBSDI

texture but a trifle more substantial, this lofty DVQVOTXFFUFOFE

cake contains a dash of espresso for a subtle OBUVSBMDPDPBQPXEFS


mocha flavor. OPU%VUDIQSPDFTTFE

UFBTQPPOHSPVOE

DJOOBNPO
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$>Wl[h[WZoW'&#_dY^jkX[ 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU
fWd"kd]h[Wi[Z$ MBSHFFHHT
 9ecX_d[ j^[ YehdijWhY^" YeYeW femZ[h" Y_ddWced" DVQTTVHBS
WdZiWbj"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ UBCMFTQPPOJOTUBOU
 I[fWhWj[ j^[ []]i _dje ( bWh][ Xembi$ 8[Wj j^[ []] FTQSFTTP PSSFHVMBS

m^_j[i kdj_b \hej^o$ Ibembo WZZ 'À( Ykf e\ j^[ ik]Wh WdZ DPGGFF EJTTPMWFEJO
X[WjWj^_]^if[[Zkdj_bij_\\XkjdejZho$ UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN
 Ki_d] j^[ iWc[ X[Wj[hi de d[[Z je mWi^ j^[c" PSXBUFS
X[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d])À*Ykfik]Wh_djej^[[]]oebaiWb_jjb[ $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS
WjWj_c["WdZX[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[_il[hoj^_YaWdZW
fWb[b[cedYebeh"WXekj+c_dkj[i$8[Wj_dj^[Z_iiebl[Z
Ye\\[[$I_\jj^[YehdijWhY^#YeYeWc_njkh[edjef"WdZ\ebZ N  4FSWFTUP
_db_]^jboXkjj^ehek]^bo$<ebZj^[X[Wj[d[]]m^_j[i_dje
j^[XWjj[h$Ifeed_djej^[jkX[fWd"WdZhWf_jicWhjboed
j^[Yekdj[hjeXWd_i^WdoW_hfeYa[ji$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[
ifh_d]iXWYa\hecWb_]^jÄd][hjekY^"+&c_dkj[i$?dl[hj
j^[ fWd m_j^ j^[ jkX[ h[ij_d] el[h W Xejjb[ _\ j^[ fWd
Ze[idej^Wl[\[[j"WdZb[jYeeb$M^[dYebZ"beei[dj^[
i_Z[iWdZY[dj[he\j^[YWa[m_j^Wi^Whfad_\[XbWZ["WdZ
kdcebZm_j^j^[XWi[e\j^[YWa[\WY_d]kfmWhZ$:kij
m_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh`kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 193


PU\P\YNaR T YNgRQ PUR`a[ba TNaRNb

DVQDIFTUOVUºPVSPS 5)*4'3&/$)  */41*3&%$ ",&4&%6$&4


CSPXOSJDFºPVS everyone—it’s such a perfect combination of moist,
DVQDPSOTUBSDI rum-infused chestnut cake, voluptuous chestnut
UFBTQPPOCBLJOHQPXEFS buttercream, and dark chocolate with just a touch
MBSHFFHHT TFQBSBUFE of apricot. Be sure to allow enough resting time
DVQTVHBS for frosting the cake: the jam glaze must dry a lit-
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMBFYUSBDU tle before you add a coating of melted chocolate.

s i m p l e s y ru p
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$8kjj[hj^[i_Z[ie\jme.#_dY^
GPSNPJTUFOJOHUIFDBLF
YWa[fWdi"WdZb_d[j^[Xejjecim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
MBZFST

 I_\jje][j^[hj^[Y^[ijdkjÅekh"YehdijWhY^"WdZXWa_d]
DVQTVHBS DVQ
femZ[h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$
XBUFS
 8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bj^[oijWhjje^ebZj^[_hi^Wf["
UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN
j^[dX[Wj_d^Wb\j^[ik]Whje\ehcW\W_hboij_\\c[h_d]k[$
?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb"Xkjki_d]j^[iWc[X[Wj[hided[[Z
f i l l i ng
je mWi^ j^[c" X[Wj j^[ []] oebai WdZ j^[ h[cW_d_d]
 PVODF
DBO
ik]Whkdj_bl[hoj^_YaWdZfWb[_dYebeh")je*c_dkj[i$
TXFFUFOFEDIFTUOVU
8[Wj_dj^[lWd_bbW$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"b_]^jbo\ebZ_d
TQSFBE TVDIBT
j^[c[h_d]k[WdZj^[Åekhc_njkh[_dWbj[hdWj[XWjY^[i"
$MnNFOU'BVHJFS
Z[ÅWj_d]j^[XWjj[hWib_jjb[Wifeii_Xb[$:_l_Z[X[jm[[d
UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL

j^[fWdiWdZiceej^j^[jefi$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[iWh[
VOTBMUFECVUUFS 
ifh_d]o je j^[ jekY^ WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya Yec[i
TPGUFOFE
ekjYb[Wd"WXekj((c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb\eh+c_dkj[i_dj^[
UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN
fWdi" j^[d kdcebZ WdZ ][djbo f[[b e\\ j^[ fWhY^c[dj$
B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWm_h[hWYa$
 8b[dZj^[ik]WhWdZmWj[h_dWicWbb"^[WloiWkY[fWd
WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$H[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZ"i^Wa_d]j^[

'/* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


fWd][djboXoj^[^WdZb[je^[bfZ_iiebl[j^[ik]Wh"i_cc[h glaze
\eh+c_dkj[i$B[jYeebjebka[mWhcWdZij_h_dj^[hkc$ DVQBQSJDPUKBN 
 Je Wii[cXb[0 8hki^ Wdo beei[ YhkcXi e\\ j^[ YWa[i NFMUFEBOETJFWFE
m_j^WZhofWijhoXhki^$9h[Wcj^[Y^[ijdkjifh[WZWdZ PVODFTUP
Xkjj[hje][j^[h"WdZWZZj^[hkc$FbWY[ed[e\j^[YWa[i" EBSLDIPDPMBUF 
h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWdkfjkhd[Z.#_dY^YWa[fWdh[ij_d]ed DIPQQFE
Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc\e_b$8hki^j^[ikh\WY[m_j^i_cfb[ UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM
iohkf$Ifh[WZ\ekh#Ä\j^ie\j^[Äbb_d]edjef$8hki^j^[
jefikh\WY[e\j^[ej^[hYWa[m_j^i_cfb[iohkfoekm_bb
^Wl[WXekj^Wb\b[\jel[h WdZfbWY[_j"iohkfi_Z[Zemd"
el[h j^[ Äbb_d]$ Ifh[WZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] Äbb_d] WhekdZ j^[
i_Z[iXkjdejj^[jefjecWa[j^[_dZ[dj[Zikh\WY[Wi
[l[dWifeii_Xb[$
 Je]bWp[0Fekhj^[c[bj[ZWfh_Yej`Wcel[hj^[YWa["
WdZifh[WZel[hj^[jefWdZi_Z[i$B[ji[j\eh'^ekh"eh
kdj_bj^[`Wc\[[biib_]^jbojWYaohWj^[hj^Wdij_Yao$C[bj
j^[Y^eYebWj[el[h^ejmWj[heh_dWc_YhemWl["WdZij_h
_d j^[ YWdebW e_b$ IjWhj_d] Wj j^[ Y[dj[h" fekh el[h j^[
YWa["WdZ_cc[Z_Wj[boj_bj_j][djbojeed[i_Z[WdZj^[d
j^[ej^[hje^[bfj^[]bWp[\WbbZemdj^[i_Z[i$Ifh[WZ
j^[Y^eYebWj[[l[dboel[hj^[i_Z[i"XkjjhodejjeZ_ijkhX
j^[ jef Wi j^_i YekbZ cWh j^[ i^[[d$ B[j ijWdZ Wj Yeeb
heecj[cf[hWjkh[kdj_bj^[Y^eYebWj[]bWp[^WhZ[dieh
h[\h_][hWj[Xh_[Åo"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[YWa[jeWÅWjfbWjj[h$


H[\h_][hWj[j^[[njhWi_cfb[iohkfWdZki[m_j^_d)eh*ZWoi\eh N  4FSWFT
feWY^_d]\hk_j$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 195


PU\P\YNaR zPYNV_`

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS "  .*9 5 63&  0'  #308 /  rice flour and tapi-
DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI oca starch makes this pâte à choux—the eggy
UFBTQPPOTVHBS pastry dough used to make éclairs and cream
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE puffs—particularly light and tender. You’ll need a
CVUUFS DVUVQ pastry/decorating bag for squeezing out the long,
1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU narrow shapes.
MBSHFFHHT
DVQIFBWZDSFBN

UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB  Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&–<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j


FYUSBDU m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
UBCMFTQPPOT  I_\jj^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"WdZik]Whje][j^[h"
DPOGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS WdZi[jWi_Z[$9ecX_d[j^[Xkjj[h"iWbj"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h
PVODFTUP _dWicWbbiWkY[fWdel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$8h_d]`kijjeW
EBSLDIPDPMBUF DVUVQ Xe_b"h[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[Åekhc_njkh[Wbb
UFBTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM WjedY[$FbWY[j^[fWdel[hbem^[Wj"WdZij_h^WhZm_j^
WmeeZ[difeedkdj_bj^[c_njkh[Zh_[iekjWb_jjb[WdZ
N  .BLFT \ehciWXWbb"WXekj'c_dkj[$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$8[Wj
_dj^[[]]i"ed[WjWj_c[j^[c_njkh[m_bbbeeabkcfoWj
Ähij"Xkjf[hi[l[h["kdj_bj^[fWij[_iiceej^WdZ`kij
^ebZi _ji i^Wf[" WXekj ( c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[h je W fWijho
XW]Äjj[Zm_j^W'#_dY^j_f"WdZf_f[ekjjm[bl[)'À(#_dY^
Äd][hi$8Wa[\eh'+c_dkj[i"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjje)-+–<"
WdZXWa[\eh
W \khj^[h '+
c_dkj[i$B[j
Yeeb ed W
m_h[hWYa$

'/, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


 8[Wjj^[Yh[Wckdj_b_jijWhjijeij_\\[d"j^[dWZZj^[
lWd_bbW"WdZi_\jj^[Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Whedjef$9edj_dk[
X[Wj_d]kdj_bie\jf[Wai\ehc$
 9ecX_d[j^[Y^eYebWj[WdZYWdebWe_b"WdZc[bjel[h
^ejmWj[h$Ij_hjecWa[Wiceej^c_njkh[$
 Ib_j j^[ ƒYbW_hi ^eh_pedjWbbo" WdZ Yel[h j^[ Xejjec
^Wbl[i m_j^ m^_ff[Z Yh[Wc$ :_f j^[ hekdZ[Z i_Z[ e\
j^[ jefi _d j^[ Y^eYebWj[" WdZ fbWY[ el[h j^[ Yh[Wc$
H[\h_][hWj[kdj_bi[hl_d]j_c[$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 197


NYZ\[Q N[Q YRZ\[ PNXR

DVQTBMNPOENFBM PS */ 5)*4 & 9 53 "  - *() 5 $ " ,& high-protein


DVQT PVODFT
 ground almonds replace the anonymous white fat
XIPMFBMNPOET and white flour found in most bakery items. The
UBCMFTQPPOT simple lemon glaze makes a tangy texture con-
DPSOTUBSDI trast, but if you prefer, you can dust the top with
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH confectioners’ sugar.
QPXEFS
MBSHFFHHT
DVQTVHBS  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W
(SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO /#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\
DVQTDPOGFDUJPOFST± fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
TVHBS  9ecX_d[ j^[ WbcedZ c[Wb" YehdijWhY^" WdZ XWa_d]
UPUBCMFTQPPOT femZ[h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$?\ki_d]m^eb[WbcedZi"]h_dZ_d
MFNPOKVJDF XWjY^[i_dWd[b[Yjh_YYe\\[[c_bb\ehWÅekhoj[njkh[$
 8[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo je YecX_d[" j^[d X[Wj _d j^[
ik]Wh b_jjb[ Xo b_jjb[$ 8[Wj Wj c[Z_kc#^_]^ if[[Z kdj_b
j^[c_njkh[h[WY^[ij^[h_XXedijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$
N  4FSWFT Ifh_dab[j^[b[cedp[ijedjef"WdZ\ebZ_dj^[WbcedZ
c_njkh[" ed[#j^_hZ Wj W j_c[$ JhWdi\[h j^[ XWjj[h je j^[
fWdWdZiceej^j^[jef$
 8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[_i]ebZ[dWdZi^h_daiWmWoib_]^jbo
\hec j^[ i_Z[i e\ j^[ fWd" WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya
[c[h][i Yb[Wd" WXekj )& c_dkj[i$ B[j Yeeb _d j^[ fWd
\eh+c_dkj[i$HkdWad_\[XbWZ[WhekdZj^[[Z][e\j^[
YWa[jebeei[d_j"j^[djkhd_jekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[b
e\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeebkfi_Z[Zemd"iceej^[iji_Z[
kff[hceij$

'/. j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


 FbWY[ j^[ YWa[ ed W i^[[j e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$ I_\j j^[
Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh _dje W Xemb$ 7ZZ j^[ b[ced `k_Y["
WdZX[Wjkdj_biceej^"'c_dkj[ehb[ii$Fekhel[hj^[
YWa[" WdZ iceej^ _dje W j^_d bWo[h m_j^ W bed] ad_\[
XbWZ["b[jj_d]j^[[nY[iiZh_fel[hj^[i_Z[i$B[jj^[YWa[
ijWdZkdj_bj^[]bWp[^Wii[j"WXekj'^ekh$JhWdi\[hjeW
ÅWji[hl_d]fbWj[$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 199


NZN_Raa\ PNXR

DVQ PVODFT
 5)*4 -6963*064  "-.0/%  $ " ,&  fla-
BMNPOET vored with almond liqueur will delight marzipan
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS fans. It goes especially well with poached dried
DVQDPSOTUBSDI apricots.
UFBTQPPOCBLJOH
QPXEFS
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd
CVUUFS TPGUFOFE .#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\
DVQTVHBS fWhY^c[djfWf[h$
MBSHFFHHT  9ecX_d[ j^[ WbcedZi" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" WdZ
UBCMFTQPPOBNBSFUUP XWa_d]femZ[h_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[
MJRVFVS c[Wb$
$POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS  FbWY[j^[Xkjj[hWdZik]Wh_dWbWh][Xemb$Ki_d]Wd
[b[Yjh_Yc_n[h"X[Wjkdj_bb_]^jWdZÅk\\o$=hWZkWbboX[Wj
_dj^[[]]i"WdZWZZj^[WcWh[jje$<ebZ_dj^[WbcedZ#
Åekhc_njkh[_djmeXWjY^[i$JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[
YWa[fWd$
N  4FSWFT  8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ YWa[ _i ]ebZ[d" i^h_dai WmWo ib_]^jbo
\hec j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ fWd" WdZ \[[bi ifh_d]o je W b_]^j
Äd][h jekY^" (+ je )& c_dkj[i$ B[j Yeeb _d j^[ fWd \eh
(c_dkj[i"j^[dhkdWad_\[XbWZ[WhekdZj^[[Z][e\j^[
YWa[jebeei[d_j$?dl[hjedjeWm_h[hWYa"WdZf[[be\\j^[
fWf[h$B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo$BWoWi[YedZm_h[hWYael[h
j^[YWa[$:kij][d[hekibom_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh"j^[d
b_\je\\j^[hWYa"b[Wl_d]Wh[l[hi[fWjj[hd$

(&& j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


dNY[ba²\YVcR \VY
`]\[TR PNXR

5)*4  -*()5  %&-*$ "5&  $ ",&  is manna DVQ PVODFT




from heaven for people who have problems with XBMOVUT


high cholesterol; they can’t believe it contains no DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS
butter and no egg yolks. And no wheat flour, of DVQDPSOTUBSDI

course. Be sure to use a very mild-flavored, UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH


buttery-tasting, estate-grown olive oil—L’Estornel QPXEFS
and Pons from Spain are both excellent, and UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

marry well with the orange zest and sherry fla- DVQ&HHCFBUFST

vorings. PSPUIFSMJRVJEFHH
TVCTUJUVUF
DVQTVHBS
 Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&–<$=h[Wi[j^[i_Z[ie\W/#_dY^ DVQNJME FYUSBWJSHJO

hekdZ YWa[ fWd b_]^jbo m_j^ eb_l[ e_b" WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ PMJWFPJM
m_j^WY_hYb[e\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ DVQNFEJVNESZ

 HeWijj^[mWbdkjikdj_b`kijijWhj_d]jeic[bb\hW]hWdj" "NPOUJMMBEP


4QBOJTI
+ c_dkj[i" WdZ Y^ef Äd[bo$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" TIFSSZ
YehdijWhY^"XWa_d]femZ[h"WdZiWbj"WdZh[i[hl[$ ;FTUPGPSBOHF
 8[Wj j^[ ;]]X[Wj[hi WdZ ik]Wh je j^[ h_XXed ijW][" $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS
WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ Fekh j^[
eb_l[ e_b WdZ i^[hho WhekdZ N  4FSWFT
j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb" WdZ
\ebZ _d$ H[cel[ j^[ p[ij
\hec j^[ ehWd][ h_]^j el[h
j^[ Xemb m_j^ W p[ij[h" ie
Wi dej je bei[ Wdo e\ j^[
WhecWj_Ye_b$IWl[j^[\hk_j
\ehWdej^[hki[$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 201


 I_\jj^[Åekhc_njkh[el[hj^[XWjj[h"WdZ\ebZ_d$<ebZ
_dj^[mWbdkji$Ifeedj^[XWjj[h_djej^[fWd"WdZXWa[
kdj_b Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya Yec[i ekj Yb[Wd" WXekj )&
c_dkj[i$:edejel[hXWa["Wij^_imekbZcWa[j^[YWa[
Zho$B[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i"j^[djkhdekjedjeWYeeb_d]
hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"jkhdj^[YWa[h_]^ji_Z[kf"WdZ
WbbemjeYeebYecfb[j[bo$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh
X[\eh[i[hl_d]$

(&( j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


PN__\a T V[TR_ PNXR

"%&1"3563&'30.5)&usual carrot cake, MBSHFDBSSPUT ¹OFMZ


this extra-light version lets the natural sweetness of HSBUFE DVQT 
almonds and carrots take center stage, with fresh PVODFT

ginger adding a grace note. A dollop of whipped JODIQJFDFGSFTIHJOHFS 


cream with each slice is optional. HSBUFE
+VJDFBOENJODFE[FTUPG
MFNPO

 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&–<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W DVQT PVODFT

/#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\ BMNPOET
fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

 9ecX_d[j^[YWhheji"]_d][h"WdZb[cedp[ijWdZ`k_Y[" UFBTQPPOCBLJOH


WdZi[jWi_Z[$?dW\eeZfheY[iieh"YecX_d[j^[WbcedZi" QPXEFS
h_Y[Åekh"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h"WdZfheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$ MBSHFFHHT
 Ki_d]Wd[b[Yjh_Yc_n[h"X[Wjj^[[]]im_j^j^[ik]Wh DVQTVHBS

kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ h[WY^[i j^[ h_XXed ijW][" WXekj - UBCMFTQPPOQJOFOVUT


c_dkj[i$<bk\\kfj^[]hWj[ZYWhhejim_j^W\eha$Ifeed $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS
WhekdZj^[[Z][ie\j^[Xemb"WdZ\ebZ_d$H[f[Wjm_j^ -JHIUMZTXFFUFOFE
j^[WbcedZc_njkh[$JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[fWd"WdZ XIJQQFEDSFBN 
iceej^j^[jef$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[f_d[dkji$ PQUJPOBM
 8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[_i]ebZ[dWdZi^h_daiWmWoib_]^jbo
\hecj^[i_Z[ie\j^[fWd"WdZWd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya[c[h][i N  4FSWFT
Yb[Wd")&je)+c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb_dj^[fWd\eh+c_dkj[i$
HkdWad_\[XbWZ[WhekdZj^[[Z][e\j^[YWa[jebeei[d
_j"j^[djkhdekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWhY^c[dj
fWf[h"h[l[hi[edjeWi[YedZhWYa"WdZb[jYeebh_]^ji_Z[kf$
I_\jW'#_dY^m_Z[XWdZe\Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]WhWhekdZj^[
h_ce\j^[YWa[$I[hl[m_j^m^_ff[ZYh[Wc"_\ki_d]$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 203


R[ T YV`U S _ bVaPNXR

UBCMFTQPPOT  "  7&3:  %*''&3&/ 5  ,*/%  of fruitcake, this


TUJDLT
VOTBMUFECVUUFS  one resembles a round, low pound cake well stud-
TPGUFOFE ded with walnuts, figs, dried cherries, and what
DVQQBDLFEEBSL English cooks poetically call “vine fruits.” There’s
CSPXOTVHBS no sweet and sticky candied stuff dyed the color
MBSHFFHHT of traffic lights, and even the most suspicious find
UBCMFTQPPOT4FWJMMF they really like it.
PSBOHFNBSNBMBEF
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

DVQDPSOTUBSDI  Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )(+–<$ B_]^jbo Xkjj[h j^[
UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN XWi[ WdZ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^ hekdZ YWa[ fWd" WdZ
UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH b_d[m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h"b[jj_d]j^[YebbWh[nj[dZ
QPXEFS '_dY^WXel[j^[h_c$J^[Xkjj[h^ebZij^[fWf[h_d
DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT fbWY[$
DVQESJFE;BOUF  9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ X[Wj _d j^[ Xhemd ik]Wh"
DVSSBOUT []]i" WdZ cWhcWbWZ[$ 8[Wj _d j^[ h_Y[ \bekh"
DVQEBSLSBJTJOT YehdijWhY^" nWdj^Wd ]kc" WdZ XWa_d] femZ[h je
DVQZFMMPXSBJTJOT cWa[Wiceej^c_njkh[$Ij_h_dj^[mWbdkji"YkhhWdji"
DVQESJFEDIFSSJFTPS ZWha WdZ o[bbem hW_i_di" Y^[hh_[i" WdZ \_]i$ JhWdi\[h
DIPQQFEQSVOFT PSB jej^[fWd"WdZiceej^j^[jef"cekdZ_d]_jkfW
NJYUVSFPGCPUI b_jjb[$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[ib_Y[ZWbcedZi$8Wa[kdj_b
DVQDIPQQFEESJFE \_hc" WXekj ' ^ekh"
¹HT (&c_dkj[i$?\j^[
UPUBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE jefijWhjijeXhemd
BMNPOET jee gk_Yabo" Yel[h
b_]^jbo m_j^ W i^[[j
N  4FSWFT e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$

(&* j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


7jeej^f_Ya_di[hj[Zd[Whj^[Y[dj[hi^ekbZ[c[h][
Yb[Wd$ B[Wl[ _d j^[ fWd \eh '& c_dkj[i" j^[d jkhd
ekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[hWdZb[jYeeb
Yecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 205


S _R[PU PU\P\YNaR Z\b``R

PVODFTUP 4.0 05)  3*$)  "/%  4*-, :  this luscious


EBSLDIPDPMBUF ¹OFMZ dessert pairs beautifully with crisp vanilla wafers.
DIPQQFE As a classic French chocolate mousse is made with
UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE raw eggs, I tinkered with tradition because I don’t
CVUUFS DVUVQ fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning. Happily
DVQ&HHCFBUFST for us, Eggbeaters (and similar liquid egg substi-
PSPUIFSMJRVJEFHH tutes), which are made from 99 percent egg whites,
TVCTUJUVUF are sterilized and perfectly safe to eat. Serve with
DVQTVHBS the Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers on page 164.
UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB

FYUSBDU
UBCMFTQPPOCSBOEZ  FbWY[ j^[ Y^eYebWj[ _d W icWbb Xemb" WdZ c[bj el[h
3JDF'MPVS7BOJMMB ^ejmWj[h$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZij_h
8BGFST QBHF
kdj_biceej^$B[jYeebjebka[mWhc$
 8[Wjj^[;]]X[Wj[hikdj_bib_]^jboj^_Ya[d[Z"WZZj^[
ik]Wh" WdZ X[Wj kdj_b j^_Ya WdZ b_]^j" WXekj ( c_dkj[i$
8[Wj_dj^[lWd_bbWWdZXhWdZo$Fekh'Ykfe\j^[c_njkh[
N  4FSWFT el[hj^[Y^eYebWj["WdZX[Wj_d$7ZZj^[Y^eYebWj[#[]]
c_njkh[ je j^[ h[cW_d_d] ;]]X[Wj[hi WdZ X[Wj Xh_[Åo
jeYecX_d[$Ifeed_djei_n 'À(#YkfhWc[a_di"Yel[hm_j^
fbWij_YmhWf"WdZY^_bb\eh(je)^ekhiehel[hd_]^j$Je
i[hl["fbWY[[WY^hWc[a_dedWicWbbfbWj[WdZWhhWd][
jmelWd_bbWmW\[hieded[i_Z[$

(&, j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea


^bVPX ZN[T\ `\_ORa

'30;&/  3*1&  . " /(0  $)6/, 4  become PVODFTGSP[FONBOHP


amazingly rich and creamy when pulverized in a DIVOLT
food processor, and turn into a kind of sin-free ice UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS
cream. This sorbet is at its best when just made, UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB

but can be stored in the freezer. (Cover the sur- FYUSBDU


face with plastic wrap to prevent ice crystals from UBCMFTQPPOTQMBJO
forming.) Frozen mango chunks are available at XIPMFNJMLZPHVSU
most natural foods stores, Trader Joe’s, and some
supermarkets. Serve with the Pine Nut Wafers on
page 165.

:hef j^[ \hep[d cWd]e Y^kdai _dje W \eeZ fheY[iieh"


cWa_d]ikh[j^WjWbbj^[Y^kdaiWh[i[fWhWj[Z$7ZZj^[
ik]WhWdZlWd_bbW"WdZfheY[iikdj_bl[hoÄd[bo]hekdZ"
iYhWf_d]j^[XembZemdi[l[hWbj_c[i$7ZZj^[oe]khj"
WdZ fheY[ii Xh_[Åo kdj_b iceej^$ Ifeed _dje Z[ii[hj
Z_i^[i"WdZWd]b[Wf_d[dkjmW\[hed[WY^i_Z[$I[hl[ N  . BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ 
_cc[Z_Wj[bo$ QJOUTFSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a` 207


TYbaR[ V[a\YR_N[PR
V[S\_ZNaV\[_R`\b_PR`

;.A6<;.9 @B==<?A 4?<B=@

Celiac Disease Foundation


13251 Ventura Boulevard, Suite 1
Studio City, CA 91604
Telephone: 818.990.2354
e-mail: cdf@celiac.org
www.celiac.org

Celiac Sprue Association (CSA/USA)


P.O. Box 31700
Omaha, NE 68131
Telephone: 877.CSA.4CSA
e-mail: celiacs@csaceliacs.org
www.csaceliacs.org

Gluten Intolerance Group of North America (GIG)


31214 124th Avenue SE
Auburn, WA 98092-3667
Telephone: 253.833.6655
e-mail: info@gluten.net
www.gluten.net

Canadian Celiac Association


5170 Dixie Road, Suite 204
Mississauga, ON L4W 1E3

(&/
Telephone: 800.363.7296
www.celiac.ca

<A52? ?2@<B?02@

Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic, by Peter H. R. Green, M.D., Director of the Celiac Disease
Center at Columbia University and Rory Jones (Collins, 2006).
The first authoritative guide on diagnosis, treatment, and management of celiac disease.
Essential reading for both patients and the medical community, this is a readable guide to
understanding and coping with a serious condition that has been little known until now.

Gluten-Free Living
P.O. Box 375
Maple Shade, NJ 08052
Telephone: 800.324.8781
www.glutenfreeliving.com
A national, full-color magazine with reliable, well-researched information and articles relating
to living well with celiac disease.

The Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University


212.305.5590
http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu

The Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center


617.667.1272
www.bidmc.harvard.edu

The University of Maryland Center for Celiac Research


410.328.6749 or 800.492.5538
http://celiaccenter.org

The University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center


773.702.7593
www.celiacdisease.net

('& TYbaR[ V[a\YR_N[PR V[S\_ZNaV\[_R`\b_PR`


ZNVY \ _QR_ `b]]YVR_` \S
TYbaR[ S _RR SY\b_` T_NV[`
[ba` N[Q \aUR_ T_\PR_VR`

Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods


5000 SE International Way
Milwaukie, OR 97222
Telephone: 800.349.2173
www.bobsredmill.com

Cream Hill Estates


9633 rue Clément
H8R 4B4
La Salle, Quebec, Canada
(gluten-free oats)
Telephone: 866.727.3628
www.creamhillestates.com
e-mail: info@creamhillestates.com

Empire Chestnut Company


3276 Empire Road SW
Carrollton, OH 44615-9515
www.empirechestnut.com

Ener- G Foods
5960 First Avenue South
P.O. Box 84487
Seattle, WA 98124-5787

(''
www.ener-g.com
Telephone: 800.331.5222
e-mail: customerservice@ener-g.com

Gluten-Free Oats Company


578 Lane 9
Powell, WY 82435
Telephone: 307.754.2058
www.glutenfreeoats.com

King Arthur Flour Company


The Baker’s Store
135 Route 5 South
Norwich, VT 05055
Telephone: 800.827.6836
www.kingarthurflour.com

The Teff Company


Telephone toll-free: 888.822.2221
e-mail: info@teffco.com
www.teffco.com

('( cW_b#ehZ[hikffb_[hie\]bkj[d#\ h[[\bekhi"]hW_di"dkji"WdZej^[h]heY[h_[i


ZRa_VP P\[cR_`V\[`

American home cooks generally work with cups and tablespoons, ounces and
pounds. The following metric equivalents will hopefully be of help to those who
are not familiar with our system and conversely, assist American cooks who wish
to convert a recipe that originated in another part of the world.
Remember that the weight of dry ingredients varies according to the volume or
density factor: 1 cup of rice flour weighs far less than 1 cup of sugar.

HHSBN
LHLJMPHSBN
N-NJMJMJUFS
-MJUFS
DNDFOUJNFUFS

UFBTQPPO¬H
UBCMFTQPPO¬H
UBCMFTQPPOTPVODFBQQSPYH
DVQPVODFTBQQSPYH PSN-

DVQPVODFTBQQSPYH PSN-
DVQTQPVOEQJOUBQQSPYH PS-
QJOUTRVBSU-
QPVOETLH

-JOFBS.FBTVSFNFOUT
JODIDN

JODIDN

(')
JODIFTDN
JODIFTDN
JODIFTDN
JODIFTDN
JODIFTDN

0WFO5FNQFSBUVSFT 'BISFOIFJUBOE$FMTJVT
'$
'$
'$
'$
'$
'$
'$

('* c[jh_YYedl[hi_edi
V[QRe

N Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86


Almond(s) Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25
almond flour, about, 8 Arrowroot starch, about, 9
almond meal, about, 8 Arugula and Goat Cheese, Rice Fettuccine
Amaretto Cake, 200 with, 70
Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and
Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Asparagus, 79–80
Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Asparagus
Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 and Pork, Asian Stick Noodles with,
Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 79–80
and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Rice Spirals with, 71
Nut Crumb Crust, 176
-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33
-Raspberry Tart, 174 O
Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Bacon
Amaranth, about, 8 Millet, and Mushroom Risotto, 56
Amaretto Cake, 200 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69
Appetizers and first courses Baguettes
Chicken and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Flaxseed and Chickpea, Quick, 144
Corn Fritters, 49 Rice Flour, 138–39
Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Beans. See Chickpea(s); Lentil(s)
Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Beef
Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22
Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried
Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Tomatoes, 119–20
Zucchini Fritters, 50 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74
Apple(s) Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116
Crumble, Spiced, 28–29 Ragù, 73–74

   ('-
Bran, Rice, and Raisin Muffins, 24 P
Breads, 129–47 Cakes
Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Almond and Lemon, 198–99
Cornmeal and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Amaretto, 200
Crumbs, Rice Flour, 134 best cake pans for, 190
Flaxmeal Skillet, 143 Carrot-Ginger, 203
Goat Cheese Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, Chocolate, Extra-Light, 193
137 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau,
lining baking sheet for, 132 194–95
Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle, 191
Quick Brown Rice Flour Flatbread, 131 Chocolate-Walnut, Four-Ingredient,
Quick Flaxseed and Chickpea Baguette, 189–90
144 Coffee, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33
Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread, 133–34 cooling, on cake racks, 195
Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 English Fruitcake, 204–5
Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge, 201–2
Rice Flour English Muffins, 135–36 Cannelloni, Rice Flour, Gratinéed, 73–74
Rice Flour Focaccia, 137 Capon, Roast, with Chestnut and Sausage
Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Dressing, 103–4
Breakfast dishes, 19–33 Carrot(s)
Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style,
32–33 91–92
Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 -Ginger Cake, 203
Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Celery, peeling, 100
Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Celiac disease
Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 diagnosis of, 3
Rice Flour Crêpes, 22 dining out with, 3–4
Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6
Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 health risks from, 2–3
Yogurt–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21 skin conditions related to, 2–3
Brownies, Teff, 158 Cereal. See Muesli
Buckwheat Cheddar
buckwheat flour, about, 9 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72
Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146
Spaetzle, 81–82 Cheese
whole (groats), about, 9 Corn Macaroni and, 72
Burgers, Ostrich, with Red Wine Sauce, 109 and Cornmeal Shortbread, 146


('. _dZ[n
Cream, –Strawberry Tart, 177 Livers, Risotto with, 60–61
firm, storing, 43 with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95
Goat, and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92
with, 70 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage
Goat, and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Dressing, 103–4
Goat, Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Chickpea(s)
Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, chickpea flour, about, 10
85–86 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37
Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 and Flaxseed Baguette, Quick, 144
Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Lentils with, 51
Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 in Middle Eastern dishes, 10
Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Chocolate
Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 about, 10
Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, Cake, Extra-Light, 193
45–46 Chip–Peanut Butter Cookies, 151
Zucchini Fritters, 50 cocoa powder, about, 11
Cherries dark, imported, substitute for, 192
English Fruitcake, 204–5 Éclairs, 196–97
Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 -Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95
Chestnut(s) -Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191
chestnut flour, about, 9 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154
and Chicken Soup, 99–100 Mousse, French, 206
Gateau, Chocolate-Glazed, 194–95 –Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152
purée, buying, 102 Teff Brownies, 158
and Sausage Dressing, 105 types of, 10
whole, about, 9–10 -Walnut Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90
whole, buying, 102 Cocoa powder
whole, peeling, 102 Dutch-processed, about, 11
Chicken natural, about, 11
breasts, grinding at home, 90 Coffee Cake, Almond-Plum Rice Flour,
breasts, slicing horizontally, 85–86 32–33
with Celery and Tarragon, 98 Cookies and bars, 149–65
in Chardonnay, 87–88 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies,
and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 156–57
Cutlets, Hazelnut and Parmesan, 85–86 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies,
Ground, Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 152
Legs, Lemon-Parsley, 96–97 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

 _dZ[n  ('/
Cookies and bars (continued) Q
Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Dates, Teff Gingerbread with, 161
Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Desserts
Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Almond and Lemon Cake, 198–99
lining baking sheet for, 132 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies,
Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 156–57
Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake,
Pine Nut Wafers, 165 32–33
Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Almond-Raspberry Tart, 174
Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Amaretto Cake, 200
Teff Brownies, 158 Apple Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust,
Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 185–86
Corn. See also Cornmeal Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203
about, 11 Chocolate Éclairs, 196–97
Fritters, 49 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau,
Macaroni and Cheese, 72 194–95
Cornmeal Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191
about, 11 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies,
and Cheese Shortbread, 146 152
Flatbread, Yeast-Raised, 145 English Fruitcake, 204–5
Piecrust, Rich, 184 Extra-Light Chocolate Cake, 193
and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Four-Ingredient Chocolate-Walnut Cake,
Cornstarch, about, 11 189–90
Cream Cheese–Strawberry Tart, 177 French Chocolate Mousse, 206
Crêpes, Rice Flour, 22 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155
Crust, Nut Crumb, 176 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154
Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, Quinoa Salad Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies,
with, 55 151
Currants Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153
English Fruitcake, 204–5 Pecan Tart, 172
Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Pine Nut Wafers, 165
Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Quick Mango Sorbet, 207
and Hazelnuts, Millet Pilaf with, 57 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175
Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63
Rice, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164
with, 62–63 Ricotta Tart, 180–81
Curry, Tomato and Egg, Creamy, 37 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29


((& _dZ[n
Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice,
Teff Brownies, 158 125–26
Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream
Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, Sauce, 123
201–2 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59
Dressing, Sausage and Chestnut, 105 Flaxseed(s)
Dumplings. See Spaetzle about, 11–12, 142
and Chickpea Baguette, Quick, 144
flaxmeal, buying, 12, 142
R Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143
Éclairs, Chocolate, 196–97 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27
Egg(s) grinding, for flaxmeal, 12, 142
Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced health benefits from, 11–12, 142
Omelet, 39 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41
Hard-Boiled, Perfectly Cooked, 38 storing, 12, 142
Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Flour, gluten-free. See also specific flour
Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 types
Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, almond, about, 8
45–46 Asian rice flour (starch), about, 15
and Tomato Curry, Creamy, 37 brown rice, about, 9
English Muffins, Rice Flour, 135–36 buckwheat, about, 9
Espresso-Pecan Cookies, 153 buying and storing, 7
chestnut, about, 9
chickpea, about, 10
S garfava, about, 10
Fennel, Rice Pilaf with, 64 grinding your own, 8
Fettuccine, Rice, with Arugula and Goat lentil, about, 12
Cheese, 70 millet, about, 13
Fig(s) montina, about, 13
English Fruitcake, 204–5 nut, about, 13
-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 oat, about, 13–14
Fish and shellfish potato, about, 14
Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper quinoa, about, 14
Sauce, 128 soy, about, 15
Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 sweet rice (starch), about, 16
Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with teff, about, 16
Quinoa, 124 white rice, about, 9

 _dZ[n  (('
Focaccia, Rice Flour, 137 Gruyère
Frittata, Spinach and Zucchini, 44 -Onion Tart, 42–43
Fritters Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,
Corn, 49 45–46
Zucchini, 50
Fruitcake, English, 204–5
U
Halibut
T in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26
Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124
Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ham
Garbanzo flour, about, 10 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66
Garfava flour, about, 10 Harissa Sauce, 92
Gingerbread, Teff, with Dates, 161 Hazelnut(s)
Gingerbread Cows, Rice Flour, 162–63 -Chocolate Truffle Cake, 191
Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 and Currants, Millet Pilaf with, 57
Gluten-free shopping, 4–5 and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86
foods “maybe” permitted, 5–6 -Raspberry Cookies, 155
foods not permitted, 6 Zebra Cookies, 154
foods permitted, 4–5 Herbes de Provence Blend, 101
Goat Cheese Honeyed Yogurt, 29
and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine
with, 70
Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 X
and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Kasha (groats), about, 9
Grains. See also Buckwheat; Millet; Quinoa;
Rice; Teff
amaranth, about, 8 Y
montina/montina flour, about, 13 Lamb, Rack of, with Herbed Crumb Crust,
oats and oat flour, about, 13–14 117–18
sorghum (milo), about, 15 Lemon and Almond Cake, 198–99
Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97
Pine Nuts, 62–63 Lentil(s)
Gratin, Halibut, Tomato, and Caper, with with Chickpeas, 51
Quinoa, 124 lentil flour, about, 12
Grocery shopping. See Gluten-free varieties of, 12
shopping Livers, Chicken, Risotto with, 60–61


((( _dZ[n
Z Chicken with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95
Macaroni, Corn, and Cheese, 72 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and
Main dishes (grains) Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8
Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90
Pine Nuts, 62–63 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets,
Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 85–86
Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97
Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109
Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage
Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Dressing, 103–4
Main dishes (meat) Main dishes (seafood)
Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper
Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Sauce, 128
Tomatoes, 119–20 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127
English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with
Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Quinoa, 124
Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice,
Peppers, 113–14 125–26
Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumb Crust, Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream
117–18 Sauce, 123
Main dishes (pasta) Main dishes (vegetarian)
Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82
Asparagus, 79–80 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72
Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37
Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced
Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Omelet, 39
Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and
Cheese, 70 Pine Nuts, 62–63
Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat
77–78 Cheese, 70
Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64
Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71
Main dishes (poultry) Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44
Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,
91–92 45–46
Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Mango Sorbet, Quick, 207
Chicken with Celery and Tarragon, 98 Manioc flour. See Tapioca starch

 _dZ[n  (()
Meat. See Beef; Lamb; Pork; Veal Pine, –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152
Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Pine, Rice, and Currants, Grape Leaf Rolls
Meringue Cookies, Chocolate–Pine Nut, 152 with, 62–63
Millet Pine, Wafers, 165
millet flour, about, 13
Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56
Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 \
serving ideas, 13 Oats and oat flour, about, 13–14
Modified food starch, 5 Omelet, Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced,
Molasses 39
Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43
Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Orange Peel, Candied, 182–83
Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109
Montina/montina flour, about, 13 Oxtail, Braised, with Mushrooms, 121–22
Mousse, French Chocolate, 206
Muesli, Toasted Quinoa, 25
Muffins ]
Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66
Rice Bran and Raisin, 24 Pancakes
Mushroom(s) Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146
Braised Oxtail with, 121–22 Yogurt–Rice Flour, 21
Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Pancetta
Millet, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69
Sauce, Rice Pappardelle with, 77–78 Pappardelle, Rice, with Mushroom Sauce,
Stuffing, Chicken with, 94–95 77–78
Mustard and Caper Sauce, 123 Parchment paper, for baking sheets, 132
Parmesan
and Hazelnut Chicken Cutlets, 85–86
[ Puffs, 40–41
Noodles, Asian Stick, with Pork and Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69
Asparagus, 79–80 and Sun-Dried Tomato Soufflé, 45–46
Nut(s). See also Almond(s); Chestnut(s); Zucchini Fritters, 50
Hazelnut(s); Pecan(s); Walnut(s) Pasta, 67–82
buying and storing, 7 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and
ground, for baked goods, 13 Asparagus, 79–80
health benefits from, 13 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82
nut flours, about, 13 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72


((* _dZ[n
Fresh Rice Flour Egg, 75–76 Quinoa, with Red Peppers, 52
gluten-free, types of, 5 Rice, with Fennel, 64
Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Pine Nut(s)
Cheese, 70 –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152
Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, Currants, and Rice, Grape Leaf Rolls with,
77–78 62–63
Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Wafers, 165
Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Pizza, Goat Cheese, with Rice Flour Crust,
Pasta Frolla, Rice Flour, 179 137
Pastry dough Polenta, Baked, and Pork Chops with
Rice Flour Pasta Frolla, 179 Peppers, 113–14
Rice Flour Tart Shell, 169–71 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31
Rich Cornmeal Piecrust, 184 Pork. See also Bacon
Peanut Butter and Asparagus, Asian Stick Noodles with,
–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 79–80
–Teff Fudge Cookies, 160 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105
Pecan(s) Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers,
-Espresso Cookies, 153 113–14
Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116
Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66
Sauce, 123 Sausage Patties, English, 115
Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Potato(es)
Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 and Goat Cheese Open-Faced Omelet, 39
Tart, 172 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66
Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 potato flour, about, 14
Peppers potato starch, about, 14
bell, broiling and peeling, 53 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44
Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with, Poultry, 83–109. See also Chicken
113–14 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and
Red, Quinoa Pilaf with, 52 Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8
Pie, Apple, with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce,
185–86 109
Piecrusts. See Crust; Pastry dough Prunes
Pilaf Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake,
Millet, with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 32–33
Orange Rice, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game English Fruitcake, 204–5
Hens with, 107–8 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

 _dZ[n  ((+
^ Pilaf with Fennel, 64
Quinoa Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61
about, 14, 54 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59
buying, 54 Saffron, Garlic Shrimp with, 127
and Chicken Moroccan Style, 91–92 varieties of, 14–15
cooking, 93 wild, about, 16
-Fig Breakfast Bars, 26 Rice Flour
flakes, about, 14, 54 Baguettes, 138–39
Ground Chicken Roll with, 89–90 Bread Crumbs, 134
Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with, brown, about, 9, 23
124 brown, buying and storing, 23
Meat Loaf with, 116 Brown, Flatbread, Quick, 131
Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 Crêpes, 22
quinoa flour, about, 14, 54 Egg Pasta, Fresh, 75–76
rinsing, 54 English Muffins, 135–36
Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143
Toasted, Muesli, 25 Focaccia, 137
Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41
white, about, 9, 15
_ White, Flatbread, Quick, 133–34
Ragù Sauce, 73–74 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145
Raisin(s) –Yogurt Pancakes, 21
English Fruitcake, 204–5 Rice flour, Asian, about, 15
and Rice Bran Muffins, 24 Rice flour, sweet (starch), about, 16
-Walnut Tart, 175 Ricotta Tart, 180–81
Raspberry (jam) Risotto
-Almond Tart, 174 with Chicken Livers, 60–61
-Hazelnut Cookies, 155 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon, 56
Rice. See also Rice Flour with Scallops, 58–59
Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24
Brown Basmati, Halibut in Foil with,
125–26 `
Currants, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls Salad, Quinoa, with Cucumber, Tomato, and
with, 62–63 Mint, 55
Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Salmon, Nut-Crusted, with Mustard Cream
Pilaf, Orange, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Sauce, 123
Hens with, 107–8 Sandwich Cookies, Almond Jam, 156–57


((, _dZ[n
Sauces Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64
Harissa, 92 Zucchini Fritters, 50
Mustard and Caper, 123 Sorbet, Quick Mango, 207
Ragù, 73–74 Sorghum (milo), about, 15
Sausage(s) Soufflé, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan,
and Chestnut Dressing, 105 45–46
Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Soup, Chicken and Chestnut, 99–100
Pork, Patties, English, 115 Soy flour, about, 15
Scallops, Risotto with, 58–59 Spaetzle, Buckwheat, 81–82
Seafood Spaghetti, Rice, alla Carbonara, 69
Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44
Sauce, 128 Squash. See Zucchini
Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177
Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with
Quinoa, 124
Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, a
125–26 Tapioca starch, about, 16
Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Tarts
Sauce, 123 Almond-Raspberry, 174
Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Onion-Gruyère, 42–43
Seed Bread, Rustic, 140–41 Pecan, 172
Shellfish Raisin-Walnut, 175
Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Ricotta, 180–81
Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Strawberry–Cream Cheese, 177
Shortbread, Cornmeal and Cheese, 146 unmolding, from tart or quiche pan,
Shrimp, Garlic, with Saffron Rice, 127 173
Side dishes Tart Shell(s)
Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 prebaked, troubleshooting, 171
Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 prebaking, 170–71
Corn Fritters, 49 Rice Flour, 169–71
Lentils with Chickpeas, 51 Teff
Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Brownies, 158
Millet Pilaf with Currants and Gingerbread with Dates, 161
Hazelnuts, 57 health benefits from, 159
Quinoa Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 –Peanut Butter Fudge Cookies, 160
Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and teff flour, about, 16, 159
Mint, 55 teff seeds, about, 16, 159

 _dZ[n  ((-
Tomato(es) –Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2
Cucumber, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies,
55 151
and Egg Curry, Creamy, 37 -Raisin Tart, 175
Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Teff Brownies, 158
Halibut, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, Wax paper, for baking sheets, 132
124 Wheat allergies
Ragù, 73–74 dining out with, 3–4
Roasted, and Orange Rice Pilaf, Game gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6
Hens with, 107–8 physical reactions to, 2
Sun-Dried, and Cornmeal Loaf, 147 Wild rice, about, 16
Sun-Dried, and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46
Sun-Dried, Braised Short Ribs with,
119–20 f
Trout, Five-Minute, with Crispy Caper Sauce, Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145
128 Yogurt
Greek, about, 177–78
Greek, making at home, 178
c Honeyed, 29
Vanilla Wafers, Rice Flour, 164 –Rice Flour Pancakes, 21
Veal
English Pork Sausage Patties, 115
Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 g
Zanthan gum, 17
Zucchini
d Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style,
Walnut(s) 91–92
-Chocolate Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Fritters, 50
English Fruitcake, 204–5 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90
Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 and Spinach Frittata, 44


((. _dZ[n
NP X [\d Y RQT Z R[a`

I owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who helped to transform this book from a jumble of
recipes into reality. In particular, I’d like to thank Chuck Williams, mentor and friend for over
three decades, for wise counsel and encouragement, my stellar literary agent, Carole Bidnick, and
my very special editors at HarperCollins/William Morrow, Harriet Bell and Jennifer Civiletto.
Thank you all for having faith in me and for your unfailingly good advice. My gratitude goes also
to five enthusiastic recipe testers: Laura Martin Bacon, cookie queen and fellow food-and-
cookware writer; Dianne Jacobs, author of the indispensable Will Write for Food (Marlowe &
Company, 2005); Anna Noelle Rockwell, fine equine artist and fellow dressage rider; Ellen
Switkes, indefatigable organizer of the Oakland/San Francisco celiac support group; and Elaine
Taylor, cofounder and president of The Taylor Family Foundation, a non-profit organization
that makes an incalculable difference to the lives of sick children. In addition, I would like to
express my heartfelt appreciation to photographer Judi Swinks and stylist Nani Steele, whose
creativity and talent speak for themselves in this new edition of The Wheat-Free Cook.


COPYRIGHT

A hardcover edition of this book was published in 2007 by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins
Publishers.

THE WHEAT-FREE COOK. Copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Illustrations copyright © 2007 by
Jacqueline Mallorca. Photographs copyright © 2009 by Judi Swinks. All rights reserved under International and
Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive,
non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced,
transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage
and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter
invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

AER Edition © January 2009 ISBN: 9780061863998

Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition.

First William Morrow paperback edition published 2009.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows:

Mallorca, Jacqueline.
The wheat-free cook: gluten-free recipes for everyone / Jacqueline Mallorca.
p. cm.
ISBN: 978-0-06-111988-0
ISBN-10: 0-06-111988-1
1. Gluten-free diet. 2. Gluten-free diet–Recipes.

RM237.86 .M35 2007


641.5/638 22
2006046155

ISBN 978-0-06-166340-6 (pbk.)


09 10 11 12 13
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

Australia
HarperCollins Publishers (Australia) Pty. Ltd.
25 Ryde Road (PO Box 321)
Pymble, NSW 2073, Australia
http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com.au

Canada
HarperCollins Publishers Ltd.
55 Avenue Road, Suite 2900
Toronto, ON, M5R, 3L2, Canada
http://www.harpercollinsebooks.ca

New Zealand
HarperCollinsPublishers (New Zealand) Limited
P.O. Box 1Auckland,
New Zealand
http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.nz

United Kingdom
HarperCollins Publishers Ltd.
77-85 Fulham Palace Road
London, W6 8JB, UK
http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.uk

United States
HarperCollins Publishers Inc.
10 East 53rd Street
New York, NY 10022
http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com

Potrebbero piacerti anche