I've been following this on antoher blog, site or so

i posted a topic and she hasn't been heard from since

Day one.
Spray an initial light misting or tack coat (Photo 10),
followed several minutes later by a heavier wet coat.
The tack coat gives the wet coat better adherence and
lessens the chance of a run in the finish.

Spray two to three wet coats (but not runny, thick coats)
on the body, 90 minutes apart, and let them dry overnight.

Day two.
Using a backing pad on the flat areas, lightly scuff-sand the body with 320-grit
sandpaper
to knock off the high spots in the finish.
Sand just enough to open the finish�don�t try to sand out every shiny spot or
sunken area
in the lacquer at this stage. Clean off all the sanding residue.

Spray two to three uniform color coats for complete coverage, allowing 90 minutes
between coats.

Day three. Lightly scuff-sand the finish with 320-grit paper using care not to sand
through
your color coats, and clean off all the residue.

Spray four uniform coats of clear lacquer, one hour between coats. Let the guitar
dry overnight.

Tip: If you get a run or drip in the finish, let the surface dry for 24 hours and
level-sand
the problem area. If you touch wet lacquer, you�ll leave a deep impression that
will be much
more difficult to fix.

Day four. Lightly scuff-sand the finish with 320-grit paper, leveling out any
imperfections
in the process, and clean off all the residue. Don�t try to sand out all the shiny
spots yet.
Be particularly careful on the curves of the body. It�s easy to sand through the
edges.

Spray four more coats of clear, 90 minutes apart.

The guitar now has six to eight topcoats of clear lacquer. Let the finish dry
overnight.
Day five. Scuff-sand the finish with 320-grit again. This time most of the shiny
spots will disappear, leaving a uniformly dull look. Spray four more clear coats,
90 minutes apart, and let dry overnight.

Day six. Lightly scuff-sand the finish with 600-grit sandpaper, to help the solvent
escape.
The body should now be left in a warm and dry location for two weeks to let the
finish cure.

Step 5: Fine sanding and buffing

Dry-sand the body to a flat, dull sheen with 800-grit sandpaper. Clean the residue
from the paper
often. Orange-peel texture caused by lacquer shrinkage as the solvents cure out of
the finish
should be removed, but don�t over sand. When all the little shiny low spots in the
lacquer have
been removed, you�re ready to go to the next step, which is wet-sanding.

To bring the finish to a smooth satin surface that�s ready for final polishing,
wet-sand with 1200-grit micro-finishing paper and water (Photo 11).
Excess water and residue should be wiped off the finish with a clean dry soft
cloth as you work. Frequently rinse the sandpaper in soapy water to remove hard
specks that can scratch the finish.