Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675

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Journal of Cleaner Production

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A new process of combined pretreatment and dyeing: REST

Erhan Öner*, Burcu Yilmaz Sahinbaskan
Marmara University, Faculty of Technical Education, Department of Textile Education, Goztepe-Istanbul 34722, Turkey

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Use of enzymes in textile processes has many advantages as far as the environmentally friendly processes
Received 27 January 2011 are concerned. These advantages include water and energy savings, less chemical use, less fabric damage,
Received in revised form mild and environmentally friendly process conditions. In this work, C.I. Reactive Yellow 15, C.I. Reactive
7 May 2011
Red 21 and C.I. Reactive Blue 19 were used to dye untreated woven cotton fabric in a laboratory scale
Accepted 11 May 2011
dyeing machine, on a pilot scale jig and on a pilot scale winch by using a single bath combined process, in
Available online 26 May 2011
which various enzymes, namely, amylase, pectinase, and catalase were employed. This new process was
named as the “Rapid Enzymatic Single-bath Treatment” (REST), since it was completed almost in half of
Keywords:
Enzymes
the conventional dyeing time, and all of the stages, namely, desizing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing
Combined-dyeing were carried out in a single bath without replacing the process water with fresh water until the end of
Environmentally friendly dyeing process the dyeing. In the REST process, the untreated, starch-sized fabric was first desized by amylase enzyme,
Reactive dyeing of cotton and this was followed by a pectinase treatment in the same bath. The fabric was then bleached by H2O2
in the same bath, and after the hydrogen peroxide bleaching; the catalase enzyme was added to the bath
to remove H2O2 residues before reactive dyeing. Without carrying out intermediate washings/rinsings
between these processes, the reactive dyeing was carried out in a conventional way in the same bath,
and finally, the fabric was taken from the bath and washed out. The colour yield was compared with the
dyeings which were carried out conventionally in separate baths. Finally, the REST has many benefits in
terms of water saving, reduced process time and energy consumptions compared to the conventional
preparatory and dyeing process of cotton fabrics.
Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction carried out a study on cotton scouring with various enzymes,

The preparatory processes of cellulosic materials by the use of
enzymes have generated a great deal of interest in the light of
reducing the cost, shortening the process time and minimizing the
chemical damage to the fibre and growing environmental concerns
(Aly et al., 2004; Tanapongpipat et al., 2008). Several books on how
to process textile materials with different enzymes are also avail-
able (Cavaco-Paulo and Gübitz, 2003; Eriksson and Cavaco-Paulo,
1998). The use of amylases for desizing of starch-sized cotton
fabrics is a very common technique today. The control of pH,
enzyme concentration, temperature and electrolyte are essential
for effective desizing (Preston, 1986; Shore, 1995). The bio-
preparation of cotton fabrics was studied by Tzanov et al.
(2001a), and the efficiency of different types of pectinases and a
single step scouring and bleaching with enzyme-generated
peroxide were investigated. Sangwatanaroj et al. (2003) also
* Corresponding author. Tel.: þ90 216 3365770x413; fax: þ90 216 3378987.
E-mail addresses: eoner@marmara.edu.tr (E. Öner), burcuyilmaz@marmara.edu.
tr (B.Y. Sahinbaskan).
namely pectinase, lipase, protease and cellulase. They compared
the results with those obtained with the alkaline scouring process.
The pectinase-scoured cotton fabric showed the same whiteness as
the caustic-soda scoured fabric did. Cotton-based substrates in the
fabric form were also bioscoured by alkaline pectinase and cellulase
enzymes (Hebeish et al., 2009; Shafie et al., 2009). Aly et al. (2010)
studied one-step process for enzymatic desizing and bioscouring of
cotton by a mixture of amylase and polygalacturonase enzymes.
A few research works on the dyeing of raw cotton in a single
bath using enzymes are available in the literature. Quandt and Kuhl
(2000) discussed the possibilities of enzymatic processes in detail
and suggested using various types of enzymes, namely amylase,
protease, lipase, pectinase, laccase, glucose oxidase, catalase and
cellulase, from the beginning to the end of the finishing processes
of textile substrates. Novo Nordisk (2000) proposed a single-bath
bioscouring and dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics. Duran and
Toloui (1998) also attempted to dye 100% cotton knits with reac-
tive dyes in catalase-treated hydrogen peroxide bleaching baths
with intermediate washings and rinsings. Tzanov et al. (2001b,
2001c, 2001d) used 100% woven cotton fabrics and studied the
reactive dyeing in catalase-treated bleaching baths and the effects

0959-6526/$ e see front matter Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.05.008
E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675 1669

Fig. 1. The REST timeetemperature diagram.

Fig. 2. The pH profile in the REST.

1670 E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675

Table 1 (Oner and Yilmaz, 2005a, 2005b; Sahinbaskan, 2010), since all the
The Rapid Enzymatic Single-bath Treatment (REST). processes were carried out in a single bath without any interme-
Concentration/Process Condition diate washings or rinsings until the end of the reactive dyeing. The
Desizing Scouring Bleaching Anti-peroxide Dyeing
dyeings were carried out in an atmospheric sample dyeing
process machine, on a pilot jigger and on a pilot winch. The results were
Wetting agent (mL/L) 0.5 e e e e compared with those obtained by the conventional process in
Amylase Enzyme (g/L) 1.3 e e e e separate baths.
Pectinase Enzyme (%o.w.f.) e 1 e e e
NaOH (pellet, g/L) e e 1 e e
2.2. Fabric
Organic Stabiliser (g/L) e e 2 e e
H2O2 (%50) (mL/L) e e 8 e e
Catalase Enzyme (g/L) e e e 4 e Throughout this experimental work, starch-sized, untreated
NaOH(50 Bé) mL/L e e e e 1.7 100% cotton plain woven fabric was used. The weight of the fabric
e e e e
Sodium Sulphate (g/L) 70
was 164 g m2 (47 ends/cm and 36 picks/cm). The samples of 6.5 g
Dye (%o.w.f.) e e e e 4a
Process temperature( C) 55 55 80 30 60
were used in the atmospheric dyeings. For the jig dyeing, the
Process time (minute) 15 20 45 20 80 sample sizes were 600 cm  20 cm (197 g) and for the winch
Liquor ratio 40:1 dyeing, 900 cm  25 cm (369 g).
a
%1 .w.f. dyeings only with “Mixture 190” samples. TEGEWA [Association of textile auxiliaries (TExtilhilfsmittel),
leather auxiliaries, tanning agents (GErbstoffe) and detergent
raw materials (WAschrohstoffe) Industries] test was carried out
on the untreated fabric and the amount of size was determined as
of residual hydrogen peroxide concentration on the colour yield.
2.5% o.w.f.
Losonczi et al. (2004) carried out bio-preparation and conventional
scouring processes of cotton fabrics and studied the bleachability
2.3. Equipment used for the treatments and for the tests
and dyeing with reactive dyes of such pre-treated fabrics. Kokol and
Golob (2004) used different cellulase enzymes for the bio-
The equipment used for the dyeings were Atmospheric Sample
preparation of raw cotton and carried out the reactive dyeings in
Dyeing Machine with 16 tubes (Roaches), Pilot Scale Jigger (Konrad
the same bath. In this work, we take further steps to challenge the
Peter A.G. Liestal) and Pilot Scale Winch (Roaches). For the fastness
conventional preparatory and the dyeing processes by the REST
tests, the Wash Fastness Tester [Gyrowash] (James H.Heal) and the
(Rapid Enzymatic Single-bath Treatment), and our laboratory
Rubbing Fastness Tester [Crockmeter] (James H.Heal) were used,
works (Yilmaz, 2004; Yilmaz and Oner, 2005; Sahinbaskan, 2010;
and the reflectance values of the samples were measured by
Oner and Yilmaz, 2005a,b) were proceeded to the pilot scales for
Datacolor Spectraflash SF 600 þ instrument with specular included
longer batches using a pilot scale jig and winch.
mode and LAV (30 mm) viewing aperture. The colour values of the
fabrics were calculated with D65 illuminant/10 observer values,
2. Experimental and the CIELab 1976 Colour Difference Formula was used to express
the colour differences.
2.1. The aim of the research
2.4. Dyes, enzymes and auxiliaries
The aim of this work was to dye an untreated, starch-sized 100%
woven cotton fabric after carrying out various enzymatic processes The chemical structures of the dyes used were monoazo, mon-
and dyeing in the same bath. This new process of dyeing was oazo/vinylsulphone and anthraquinone/vinylsulphone, namely C.I.
named as “The REST” (The Rapid Enzymatic Single-bath Treatment) Reactive Yellow 15, C.I. Reactive Red 21 and C.I. Reactive Blue 19.

Fig. 3. K/S values of the dyed fabrics.(*) %1.w.f. dyeings only with “Mixture 190” samples. (A) Atmospheric dyeing, (J) Jigger dyeing and (W) Winch dyeing.
 E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675 1671

Table 2 Table 4
The CIELab values of samples dyed in the atmospheric laboratory dyeing machine.a The CIELab values of the fabrics dyed on a pilot scale winch.a

CIELab Fabrics CIELab Fabrics

Values Values
C.I. Reactive Yellow C.I. Reactive Red 21 C.I. Reactive Blue 19 C.I. Reactive Red 21
15 Conventional REST

Conventional REST Conventional REST Conventional REST L* 48.97 46.46

a* 58.37 60.12
L* 80.23 79.96 45.92 45.84 35.38 38.45
b* 2.59 5.81
a* 18.23 17.25 59.82 59.39 3.00 3.20
C* 58.43 60.40
b* 87.00 87.29 6.05 5.01 41.87 41.36
h 2.54 5.52
C* 88.89 88.98 60.13 59.60 41.98 41.48
X 29.39 27.09
h 78.17 78.82 5.77 4.82 274.10 274.42
Y 17.57 51.61
X 61.58 60.68 26.46 26.27 8.58 10.21
Z 17.58 14.18
Y 57.09 56.62 15.21 15.15 8.69 10.34
DE* 4.44
Z 6.59 6.41 13.71 14.08 29.79 33.19
DH* (þ) 3.09
DE* 1.16 1.13 3.12
DH* (þ) 1.12 () 0.99 (þ) 0.23 a
The conventional dyeings were taken as ‘standard.
a
The conventional dyeings were taken as ‘standard’.

Aquazyme 240 L (Novozymes) is an a-amylase enzyme and can
be used at pH 6e7 range, between 30 and 70  C temperatures.
Scourzyme L (Novozymes) can be used at pH 8e9, between 50 and
65  C temperatures and Terminox Ultra 10 L (Novozymes) is
a stabilized catalase enzyme for anti-peroxide treatment and can be
employed at pH 6.5e8.5, between 30 and 50  C temperatures for
15e30 min.
Uniwett HGA (Alfa Kimya) is a non-ionic/anionic wetting agent
for preparatory processes with a fast wetting agent capability, high
alkali stability, emulsification and dispersion power. Prestogen P
(BASF) is a surfactant-free organic stabiliser for alkaline peroxide
bleach baths and permits silicate-free bleaching. Perlavin NIC (Dr.
Petry) is a non-ionic washing agent. The other chemicals used were
obtained from Merck.
2.5. Conventional process
The untreated fabric was desized, scoured and bleached in
separate baths in accordance with the conventional procedures
described in the literature (Shore, 1995). The cotton fabric was
desized in a bath containing 0.5 mL L1 wetting agent and 1.3 g L1
amylase enzyme at 55  C for 15 min, with a liquor ratio of 40:1. The
treatment time excludes the heating up time to 55  C, which is
5 min at a heating rate 5  C min1. After desizing, a hot washing at
95  C for 10 min, a warm rinsing at 55  C for 10 min and finally,
a cold rinsing at 25  C for 10 min were applied to the fabric, with
a liquor ratio of 20:1 at each stage (Washing 1). The scouring of the
fabric was carried out in a bath containing 0.2 mL L1 wetting agent
and 10 g L1 NaOH, at 95e98  C for 60 min with a liquor ratio of
40:1. The treatment time for scouring excludes the heating up time
to 95  C, which is 15 min at a heating rate 5  C min1. After
scouring, a hot washing at 95  C for 10 min, a warm rinsing at 55  C
for 10 min and finally, a cold rinsing at 25  C for 10 min were
applied to the fabric, with a liquor ratio of 20:1 at each stage
(Washing 2). The desized and scoured fabric was eventually
bleached at 80  C for 45 min in a bleaching bath comprised of
0.2 mL L1 wetting agent, 1 g L1 NaOH, 2 g L1 organic stabiliser,
8 mL L1 H2O2 (50%). The heating up of the bath was 10 min. After
the conventional bleaching process, the bleached fabric was
washed at 70  C for 20 min and neutralized, and then, treated with
1 g L1 washing agent at 95  C for 10 min. This was followed by two
rinses at 70  C for 10 min each and finally, a cold rinse was applied
for 10 min (Washing 3).
Having carried out the desizing, scouring and bleaching
processes conventionally in separate baths, the fabrics were dyed
with reactive dyes and each bath was comprised of 4% o.w.f. dye (1%
for Mixture 190), 70 g L1 sodium sulphate and 1.7 mL L1 NaOH
(50 Bé). The dyeings were carried out at 60  C for 80 min.
The amount of dye used was 4% o.w.f. at a liquor ratio of 40:1. 1%
o.w.f. dyeings were carried out only in the binary mixtures of Red
21 and Yellow 15 dyes (designated as “Mixture 190” samples). The
dyeing process was initiated at 30  C and involved the sequences of
addition of salt (70 g L1 Na2SO4), addition of the dye, the first
portion of alkali addition, raising the temperature to 60  C at
a 5  C min1 heating rate, the second portion of alkali (Total;
1.7 mL L1 NaOH (50 Bé)) addition, the fixation stage for 45 min,
and finally, cooling the bath to 30  C. The total dyeing time,
including the heating and cooling stages, was 80 min. The dyed

Table 3
The CIELab values of the fabrics dyed on a pilot scale jigger.a
Table 5
CIELab Fabrics The CIELab values of the fabric dyed with a binary dye mixture (Mixture ‘190’).a
Values
C.I. Reactive Yellow C.I. Reactive Red 21 C.I. Reactive Blue 19 CIELab Values Fabrics
15
Dye Mixture ‘190’
Conventional REST Conventional REST Conventional REST Conventional REST
L* 77.81 79.63 42.63 43.73 39.77 43.64 L* 72.36 73.26
a* 21.02 18.35 58.91 59.95 0.45 0.15 a* 24.31 23.34
b* 90.71 87.67 7.91 6.70 39.73 36.34 b* 38 86 40.43
C* 93.12 89.57 59.44 60.32 39.74 36.34 C* 45.84 46.77
H 76.95 78.18 7.64 6.38 270.65 270.23 h 57.97 60.06
X 58.38 60.53 22.96 24.25 10.59 12.91 X 50.45 51.55
Y 52.89 56.03 12.91 13.65 11.11 13.59 Y 44.20 45.57
Z 4.81 6.17 10.86 11.97 33.66 36.15 Z 19.61 19.55
DE* 4.44 1.94 5.16 DE* 2.05
DH* (þ) 1.95 () 1.78 () 0.29 DH* (þ) 2.53
a a
The conventional dyeings were taken as ‘standard’. The conventional dyeings were taken as ‘standard’.
1672 E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675

Fig. 4. Comparison of Processing Time (min.).

fabric was then rinsed six times, for 10 min at each stage, with (Conventional-A and REST-A), a pilot scale jigger (Conventional-J
a sequence of a warm rinsing at 70  C, a second warm rinse at 70  C and REST-J) and also a pilot scale winch (Conventional-W and REST-
and neutralizing with acetic acid, soaping at the boil, a third warm W). C.I. Reactive Yellow 15, C.I. Reactive Red 21 and C.I. Reactive
rinse at 70  C, a final rinse at 50  C, and eventually, a cold rinse Blue 19 dyes were used throughout in the laboratory scale atmo-
(Washing 4). spheric dyeing machine and on the pilot scale jigger; C.I. Reactive
Red 21 and also a binary mixture of 0.1% Red 21 and 0.9% Yellow 15
2.6. The Rapid Enzymatic Single-bath Treatment (REST) dyes (designated as “Mixture 190”) were used on the winch
dyeings.
The timeetemperature diagram and the diagram showing the The small samples were taken out in the repeated experiments
changes in the pH during the REST are given in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, and during the pretreatment processes and the CIE Whiteness Indexes
the amount of the added chemicals during the process stages is of the samples were measured in accordance with AATCC 110-2005
given in Table 1. During this process, no fresh water was added to Method. The CIE Whiteness Indexes of the untreated (raw) and the
the bath, and all the applications were carried out in the same bath enzymatically desized samples were 9.9 and 11, respectively. The
throughout. The dyed fabrics were finally washed and rinsed as conventionally and the combined pre-treated (the desized and the
described earlier. The pH was monitored and adjusted by small scoured in the same bath) materials have 36.2 and 28 CIE WI values.
amounts of acid and base additions during the process. The conventionally and the combined bleached fabrics (A-I process
steps in the REST in Fig. 1) were almost equal and being in the range
3. Results of 72e75. The absorbency of the bleached samples were checked in
accordance with AATCC 79-2000 Method, and the wetting time was
The following results were obtained from the experimental found to be less than 1 s.
work carried out on a laboratory scale atmospheric dyeing machine
3.1. Colour measurement values of dyed samples
Table 6
Washing fastnesses of the dyed fabrics. The colour strength (K/S) values of the dyed fabrics were
calculated in accordance with AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 and
Fabrics Process
are given in Fig. 3. The CIELab values of the dyed materials, the
Conventional REST colour differences (DE*) and the hue differences (DH*) were
4% C.I. Reactive Yellow 15 A 4 4 calculated in accordance with AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 and
J 4e5 4e5 these are given in Tables 2e5.
4% C.I. Reactive Red 21 A 4e5 4e5
In the atmospheric machine dyeings with Yellow 15, the
J 4e5 4
W 4 4 K/S values are almost the same; with the Red 21 dyed fabrics, the
4% C.I. Reactive Blue 19 A 4e5 5 K/S value of the conventional dyeing is slightly higher than the REST
J 4e5 4 dyed fabric; but it is somehow lower for the Blue 19 dyeing and also
1% Mixture ‘190’ J 4e5 4e5 in the winch dyeing with Red 21. In the jigger dyeings, for all of the
(A) Atmospheric dyeing, (J) Jigger dyeing and (W) Winch dyeing. three dyes, the K/S values are slightly higher for the conventionally
 E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675 1673

Table 7
Staining fastness results of the dyed fabrics on various fibres.

Material Process

Conventional REST

Yellow 15 Red 21 Blue 19 M 190 Yellow 15 Red 21 Blue 19 M 190

A J A J W A J J A J A J W A J J
Secondary Cellulose Acetate 4e5 4 5 3e4 4e5 5 3e4 4 5 4 5 4e5 4e5 4e5 3e4 4e5
Bleached Unmercerized Cotton 5 4e5 4e5 3e4 5 4e5 4e5 4e5 5 4e5 4 4e5 4e5 4e5 4e5 4e5
Nylon 6.6 4e5 5 4e5 5 5 5 3e4 5 4e5 5 5 4e5 4e5 4 3e4 4e5
Polyester (Terylene) 5 4e5 5 4e5 5 5 4e5 4e5 5 4e5 5 5 5 5 4e5 5
Acrylic (Courtelle) 4e5 5 4e5 5 5 4e5 5 5 4e5 5 4e5 5 5 4e5 5 5
Wool Worsted 4e5 4 5 4 5 5 3 4 4e5 4 4e5 4e5 5 5 3 4e5

(A) Atmospheric dyeing, (J) Jigger dyeing and (W) Winch dyeing.

dyed fabrics. The chroma values (C*) of the batches (REST-J dyeings)
are lower than those of the standards (Conventional-J). When the
CIELab values of the REST dyed fabrics are compared with the
conventionally dyed fabrics (Tables 2e5), colour differences are
present; however, these colour differences are not more than 6
CIELab DE units for the most applications. This means that these
colour differences could be compensated by adding small amounts
of dyes to the bath initially. The hue differences (DH*) are less or
slightly over 1 in most cases, but less than 3.1 units. This indicates
that there are negligible hue changes in dyeings. The CIELab values
of the jigger dyeings are given in Table 3. The CIELab values of the
winch dyed fabrics with Red 21 and a binary mixture of Red 21 and
Yellow 15 (Mixture 190) are given Table 4 and Table 5.
3.2. Colour fastness test results of the dyed fabrics
On the other hand, the total process time for the REST, excluding
the time for wetting, heating up and cooling down, was 240 min.
The time allocated for each step was 15 min for desizing, 20 min
for scouring, 45 min for bleaching, 20 min for anti-peroxide treat-
ment and 140 min (80 min dyeing and 60 min washing time) for
dyeing.
As a result, the REST was about 170 min shorter than the
conventional process, since there was no washing process after
desizing, scouring and bleaching.
3.4. Amount of water used in the processes
The water used in the REST Process was 69% less than the
conventional process. The amounts of water used for each
processes are summarized in Table 9.

The colour fastness test results are summarized in Tables 6e8.
The washing fastness tests are carried out in accordance with the
method described in ISO 105-C06 (A1S test conditions; 40  C
temperature, 30 min and 10 steel balls) and the rubbing fastness
test were carried out in accordance with ISO 105-X12.
As shown in the tables, the fastness results of the REST dyed
fabrics are quite good, when compared to those of the conven-
tionally dyed fabrics.
3.3. Comparison of processing times
The total conventional processing time, excluding the time for
heating up and cooling down of the baths, was 410 min. The time
allocated for each step was 50 min for the conventional desizing
(20 min process and 30 min washing time), 105 min (75 min process
and 30 min washing time) for scouring, 115 min (55 min process and
60 min washing time) for bleaching and 140 min (80 min dyeing and
60 min washing time) for dyeing (Fig. 4).
3.5. Tensile strength test results of the dyed fabrics
To investigate the loss of the fabric’s tensile strength after the
processes, the fabrics were tested by Instron 4411 in accordance
with ISO 13934-1 and the % changes in the tensile strength of the
dyed materials in the warp and the weft directions are summarized
in Table 10. As shown in Table 10, the conventionally dyed fabrics
have higher loss of strength values than the REST process dyed
fabrics, both in the warp and the weft directions. This is an expected
effect of the mild processing conditions in the REST Processes on
the conventional processes.
Table 9
The use of water for the REST and conventional processes in the atmospheric
machine, jig and winch dyeing machines.
Processes Process Steps Relative Amounts of
Water Used in The
Processes (unita)

A J W
Table 8 Conventional Desizing þ Washing 1 0.25 0.96 19
Rubbing fastness results of the dyed fabrics. Scouring þ Washing 2 0.25 0.96 19
Bleaching þ Washing 3 0.4 1.54 31
Fabrics Processes
Dyeing þ Washing 4 0.4 1.54 31
Conventional REST SAmount of water used 1.3 5 100
in the Conventional Process
Dry Wet Dry Wet REST Desizing 0.1 0.38 8
4% C.I. Reactive Yellow 15 A 5 4e5 5 4e5 Scouring e e e
J 4 4e5 5 5 Bleaching e e e
4% C.I. Reactive Red 21 A 5 4e5 4e5 4e5 Anti-peroxide Treatment e e e
J 5 4 4e5 4 Dyeing e e e
W 5 4 4e5 4 Washing 4 0.3 1.16 23
4% C.I. Reactive Blue 19 A 4e5 4 5 4e5 SAmount of water used 0.4 1.54 31
J 4e5 4e5 4e5 4e5 in the REST Process
1% Mixture ‘190’ J 5 4e5 5 4e5 a
260 L ¼ 100 units. Amounts of water used in atmospheric dyeing (A), jigger
Atmospheric dyeing, (J) Jigger dyeing and (W) Winch dyeing. dyeing (J) and winch dyeing (W) are given respectively.
1674 E. Öner, B.Y. Sahinbaskan / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1668e1675
Table 10
% Change in the tensile strength of dyed materials.a
Material Warp Direction
Conventional REST
Newton % Change Newton
Untreated (raw) 965.9 e 965.9
%4C.I. Reactive Yellow 15 779.9 19.26Y 932.0
%4C.I. Reactive Red 21 875.6 9.35Y 927.2
%4C.I. Reactive Blue 19 862.3 10.73Y 906.6
a
Average values.
4. Conclusion
The following conclusions can be reached in the light of data
obtained from the experimental work carried out in a laboratory
scale atmospheric dyeing machine, on a pilot scale jig and also on
a pilot scale winch:
- Each experiment was carried out in triplicates. The REST
process are repeatable, as long as the precise controls of the pH
and the temperature of the dyebath are maintained. The
enzymes used in this experimental work showed compatibility
with the auxiliaries used in this work and as a result of this,
level dyed fabrics were obtained. The colour uniformity of the
dyed materials were controlled by colour measurements and
was found to be in the limits (DE < 0.4).
- To minimize the colour differences and the hue differences to
some extent between the conventionally and the REST dyed
fabrics, a further investigation is required as far as the struc-
tures of the dyes, the enzyme/dye interactions, and the process
conditions are concerned. More variations of the REST process
conditions with the use of different dyes and enzyme systems
were also carried out and published elsewhere (Sahinbaskan,
2010).
- To stabilize the baths during the dyeing stage, various chemicals
can be added to the bath. The decrease in the effectiveness of the
reactive dyes as a result of reduction and hydrolysis may also be
compensated by adding small amounts of dyes to the bath.
- The REST dyed fabrics showed good washing, staining, wet and
dry rubbing fastness properties, compared with those of the
conventionally dyed fabrics.
- The REST dyed fabrics have better tensile strength values than
the conventionally dyed fabrics, because of the shorter process
time and the milder process conditions.
- The process time in the REST is about 50% shorter than that of
the conventional process. This means more process runs at the
industrial stage.
- The textile processing industry uses large amount of water, and
water consumption varies from 70 to 250 L kg1 fabric
depending on the technique applied (Ozturk et al., 2009).
Reducing the amount of water is the key factor to a sustainable
development in the dyeing industry and different strategies to
reduce the amount of process water are available in the recent
literature (Jiang W. et al., 2010; Xie K. et al., 2011; Dovi V. G. et al.,
2009). In the REST process, the use of water is almost 1/3 of the
conventional processes. This means not only more water and
heating energy savings but also less effluent to the environment.
- Further investigations have also been carried out to optimize
similar processes. These include replacing the half or 1/3 of the
polluted water with fresh water before dyeing stage, and also,
filtering the bath before dyeing in the REST. These additional
processes (discharging water and dosing fresh water to the
bath or the filtration of the pretreatment bath before dyeing)
Weft Direction
Conventional REST
% Change Newton % Change Newton % Change
e 560.0 e 560.0 e
3.51Y 474.4 15.27Y 536.3 4.22Y
4.01Y 424.6 24.17Y 528.5 5.62Y
6.14Y 513.5 8.30Y 542.6 3.09Y
will make the REST process slightly longer but the dyed fabrics
with much better colouristic properties could be achieved and
the colour matching could be easier.
Acknowledgements
The authors express their sincere thanks to Alfa Kimya (Turkey),
Novozymes (Turkey) for providing the enzymes, DyStar (Turkey) for
supplying the dyes and Dr. Petry for supplying the washing agent.
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