SEW YOUR OWN

WRAP SCRAP COWL

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Terms of Use ........................................................................................................................................................... 2

Construction............................................................................................................................................................ 3

Glossary ................................................................................................................................................................. 10

TERMS OF USE

This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author. All content within
this pattern is considered the intellectual property of Baby Bonda Productions. Physical or electronic
reproduction and pattern sharing, whether in part or whole, is strictly forbidden.

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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CONSTRUCTION

Do you have a piece of wrap that you wish you could have a scarf except it's only 10+" (25 cm) wide? No
problem! Make a cowl instead!

First measure your head! This is important because you want to make sure this is going to fit over your head
once you are done! The width of your wrap should be 3" (7.5cm) bigger than your head otherwise you are
going to have a hard time wearing the cowl. The average adult head is 22" (55cm) and some wraps are only
24" (60cm) wide. That will mean you will have a finished size of 23" (57.5cm) and it may not make it over your
head. Or it may squish your nose horribly.

If your wrap has hemmed rails, you will need to unpick the hems. You could cut them off, but for most
machine woven wraps undoing a hem is quick if you are using the seam ripper properly. The plastic bulb goes
into the seam and runs along the rail to quickly cut the threads. Careful using this technique on handwovens
or loose weave machine wovens as it is easy to catch the threads of the wrap.

The side with the plastic bulb goes in the seam and run it along the rail to cut the threads.

Start with a rectangle at least 10" x 25" (25cm x 63cm). It isn't shown until later in this tutorial, but zigzag
stitching or serging the raw edges will keep the edges from fraying and keep stray threads to a minimum.

You could just sew the rail ends together and call it a day. I like to hide the seam by making a flat felled seam.
It sounds fancy, it looks fancy and yet is easy to sew.
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All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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To start, line up the 2 rails with Rail B
(the blue one) sticking out 1/2"
(1.5cm) further than the Rail A (the
yellow one). Pin in place.

Sew a 1" (2.5cm) seam from Rail B or 1/2" (1.5 cm) on Rail A.

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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 Using an iron, press the seam towards Rail B.

This is the trickiest part (or at least the trickiest part to show in pictures).

Press Rail B over 1/2' (1.5cm) back towards the seam.

Rail B will cover up the seam allowance from Rail A.

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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Take Rail B and flop the whole seam
over to the other side and pin in
place. This is still on the inside of
the cowl.

Sew close to the folded edge of Rail

B 1/8" - 1/4" (0.5 cm) away from
the edge. You will be sewing on the
same side as Rail A. This will leave a
seam and top stitching showing on
the outside of the cowl. The seam
will look finished on the inside. And
the flat felled seam is complete!

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www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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To finish the edges of the cowl, fold
over the edge 3/8" (1cm) and press
in place.

Note, at this point I had zigzagged

the raw edge of the wrap as it was
fraying and I was having troubles
tucking the stray threads into the
fold. This step is best done before
starting sewing.

Fold the edge over 3/8" (1cm) a second time to hide the raw edge. Pin and iron in place.

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

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All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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 Top stitch the folded edge in place by sewing 1/4" (0.5cm) along the edge.

Repeat on the other side of the cowl. Voila! A finished cowl!

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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You can wear it as a scarf or a hood to keep your ears warm.

Option 2: Use a wider piece of wrap to make a thicker cowl, such as 20" (45cm).

Option 3: If starting with a piece 20" (45cm), cut in half to make least 10" (25cm) wide and repeat the flat
felled steps to make a double length cowl.

Tag me on Instagram or Facebook as I'd love to see your creations!

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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GLOSSARY

Backstitch: Reinforcement at the beginning or end of a line of sewing made by sewing several stitches in the
opposite direction. Most sewing machines have a reverse function for this purpose.

Baste: A temporary stitch used to hold a piece in place prior to sewing a seam. Generally sewn with a longer
stitch length to allow for easy removal.

Grain: The technical name for these is "warp threads." Crosswise grain refers to the threads that run parallel
to the cut edge of the fabric (the width) and so are perpendicular to the selvage. The technical name for these
is "weft threads."

Press: Iron by placing it gently down on the seam, then lift it, and move it again in an up and down motion
rather than a side-to-side motion. Pressing blends the stitches into the fabric, flattening and smoothing any
puckers that may have occurred during sewing.

Right side: T The side of the material that will be shown on the outside of the finished cloth liner.

Topstitch: A finishing stitch that will show on the finished carrier. Generally sewn close to the edge, either
1/8” or 1/4” from the edge.

Wrong side: The side of the material that will be hidden on the inside of the finished cloth liner.

Copyright 2016 Baby Bonda Productions

www.babybondaproductions.com
All rights reserved. This pattern may not be republished or distributed without the permission of the author.

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