Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
NOVI SAD
January – June 2012
Salaši
N°4 Experience the authentic Serbian
www.inyourpocket.com
countryside at these unique
tourist farms
Culture & Events
BELGRADE
July - September 2011
45th BITEF
The Belgrade Internation al
Theatre Festival is th gest
event of its kind in the region
N°14
www.inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the
continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.
In Your Pocket
Europe’s City Guide
inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents 3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Novi Sad 6
In praise of laid-back life
The Basics 7
History 9
Culture & Events 11
Where to stay 21
Sweet Dreams
Restaurants 25
Slow food movement
Cafés 32
Enjoy Novi Sad’s favourite pastime
Novi Sad’s parks take a whole new look duting the winter
Nightlife 33
Tamburitsa, Wine & Clubbing
What to see 35
Petrovaradin Fortress
Belgrade 44
Lifestyle Directory 46
Gifts & Souvenirs
Maps&Index
City centre map 48
Country map 50
Index & Street register 51
Even statues are enchanted by Petrovaradin Fortress
Local time
Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours
(in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving. When it is noon
in Novi Sad it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00
in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.
Money
The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a
‘Serbian dinar’ dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into
100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded
off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and
20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20,
50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000, 2.000 and 5.000 dinars. National
currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank or
any of the exchange offices dotting the town (they are marked
with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences
in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Novi Sad will
change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook,
VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from
abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks.
You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and
you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and paying the
parking. Throughout the town, there is a large number of ATMs
where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable
in Novi Sad are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard,
Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express
has recently been introduced to Serbian market, and a rather
limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.
Geography Health
Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases
with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are
Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The professional and reliable, and you need not worry about their skills
highest peak is Midžor (2169m) on Old Mountain (Stara if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor maintenance of
planina). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the state run hospitals, which is a consequence of insufficient funds,
Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the and the red tape involved in hospital admission. If you have a
border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian minor health problem, you are well advised to visit a private
river is Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence practice so as to avoid an agonizing wait.
of Western Morava (308km) and Southern Morava
(295km). Novi Sad lies on the Danube River
Local laws & Police
You will be required to declare money (including travellers’
www.inyourpocket.com cheques) in excess of €10,000 (or equivalent in other
currencies) that you bring into Serbia. Prostitution and use of
Visas
If you are a citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA,
Israel, Japan, Russia, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia
and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can
enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for
90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from
a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your
arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest
police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they
will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries
a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your
stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of
Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs in
Belgrade, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Novi
Sad Town Police (Department for Foreigners)
BBB, Bulevar kralja Petra I 11, tel. 488 40 00.
Toilets
Public toilets in Novi Sad are hard to find. The existing ones
are fairly decent and can be found next to the Town Hall on
Kralja Aleksandra Street, in Dunavski Park, at Sports and
Business Centre Vojvodina on Sutjeska Street C-2 and at
bus and train stations, open 06:00-20:00. If the need to go
comes on whilst you are strolling round the town, you can
use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant.
90
80
karpati@eunet.rs, www.karpati.co.rs
70 Kompas Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 15, tel. (+381) 21
60
522 528, kompas@eunet.rs, www.kompasnovisad.com
50
40
Market tours Bulevar Cara Lazara 55, tel. (+381)
30 21 636 76 12
20
10
Magelan corporation C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel.
0
472 40 88, 662 48 23
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Avg Sep Okt Nov Dec Panacomp Bulevar Cara Lazara 96, tel. (+381) 21
rain temperature 466 075, info@panacomp.net, www.panacomp.net
4500 BC First settlement established in the area of the 1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among
present Petrovaradin Fortress. Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic
3000 BC First wooden fortifications erected around the of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially
settlement. installed in power. Most of German population leaves Novi
6th century Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans. Slavs embrace Sad. In the post-war period, Novi Sad becomes the capital
Christianity in 9th century. of Vojvodina region, grows rapidly and develops into an
1247 Hungary builds a fortress at the site of the present important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown
Petrovaradin Fortress. Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges
1526 Fortress occupied by Ottoman Turkey. Hotel in London.
1687 Fortress occupied by Austrians. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by
1692 Petrovaradin Fortress construction begins. On the ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics
opposite bank of the Danube river, at the location of the and 2 from Serbian provinces).
present Novi Sad, a settlement springs up, composed of 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of
Serbs, Jews, Greece and Germans, as non-Catholics were Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil
banned from residing within the limits of the Fortress’ Lower war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Serbia for the
Town. The settlement was initially called Raitzenstadt (Serb first time in his life.
Town) and Petrovaradinski šanac (Petrovaradin Ditch). 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia.
1703 The first Serbian National School opens in Novi Sad. Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security
1748 Affluent Serbs start raising money and buy for Novi Sad Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its
the status of the free royal city from Maria Theresia, Queen support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia who want to unify
of Hungary and other territories. Maria Theresia renames with federal Yugoslavia.
the town as Neoplanta (Latin), Uj-Videgh (Hungarian), Novi 1993 The highest hyperin flation in the histor y - a
Sad (Serbian). 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Serbia.
1820 Novi Sad has a population of 20,000. It is a cultural 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced.
and political centre of Serbs, who do not have their own 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb
national state at the time. Poets hail it as the Athens of refugees leave Croatia for Serbia.
Serbia. Almost every Serbian novelist, poet, jurist and 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over
publicist of note at the end of 19th century and at the electoral fraud at local elections.
beginning of 20th century live or work in Novi Sad some 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede
time of their career. from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and
1848 Hungarians demand national rights and autonomy Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb Serbia for three
within the Austrian Empire. Confronted with new Hungarian months, without endorsement of the UN Security Council.
authorities and wishing to express their own national Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity
individuality, Serbs in their turn proclaim Serbian Vojvodina during the wars of Yugoslav succession. In June, following a
(Serbian Duchy). Hungarian government replies by use of piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and
force. In 1849, the Hungarian army located on the Petrovaradin Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia.
fortress shells and ravages the town, killing many of its During the 78 days of bombing, Novi Sad is left without all of its
inhabitants. After the defeat of the revolution in 1849, the three Danube bridges, communications, water, and electricity.
Austrian Emperor adopts a new constitution, guaranteeing Žeželj Bridge, the first bridge made of prestressed concrete
Serbs broader rights and religious freedoms. in Europe, the second in the world, takes direct hits on four
1861 Serbian National Theatre, the oldest professional different days, before it finally collapses into the water, hit again
theatre among the South Slavs, is founded in Novi Sad. by six missiles. Residential areas are cluster bombed several
1864 Matica Srpska, the oldest cultural-scientific institution times while its oil refinery is bombarded daily, causing severe
of Serbia, is moved from Budapest to Novi Sad. pollution and widespread ecological damage. The bombing of
1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Petrovaradin Fortress the refinery causes fires which burn 50,000 tons of crude oil,
serves as prison for arrested Serbs and POWs. enveloping Novi Sad in black smoke
1918 Following the defeat of Austria-Hungary, Army of the 20 0 0 Slobodan Mil ošević is ousted amidst h u ge
Kingdom of Serbia enters Novi Sad. Grand Assembly of Serbs, demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European
Bunjevci, and other nations of Vojvodina in Novi Sad proclaims countries and the US improve.
the union of Vojvodina region with the Kingdom of Serbia. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State Union
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state - Yugoslavia. of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić,
1929 Novi Sad becomes the capital of the Danube Banovina, is assassinated by a criminal clan. The clearance of the debris,
a province of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. the remains of the bridges destroyed during the NATO strikes, is
1934 King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia visits Marseille in a bid completed and the Danube again becomes navigable.
to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000
and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining Serbian
1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48
(Germany - Italy - Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yer-old hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches
Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany attacks and monasteries.
Yugoslavia on 6th April without declaration of war. The King 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist.
and the government go into exile. Emergence of two Serbian Serbia is again an independent state.
resistance movement - chetnicks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians
partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad autonomy,
Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Croatia. Novi Sad Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The
is occupied by Hungarian fascists. international community is divided over this issue.
1942 In the course of three days in January, Hungarian 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries,
fascists conduct a raid in Novi Sad, force more then 1,300 Albanians from Kosovo and Metohija province of Serbia
Serbs and Jews out of their homes and kill them. Most of the declare independence from Serbia. The international
bodies were thrown into the Danube. community is still divided over this issue - some countries
1944 Red Army units and Yugoslav partisans liberate Novi Sad. have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against
Political framework
Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament
has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years,
the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most
recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007
and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current
President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime
Minister is Mirko Cvetković. Democratic Party, together with
G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan
Milošević’s party) form the ruling government coalition. The
major opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the
single strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia
and Liberal Democratic Party.
Milutin Milanković
One of Serbia's most ac-
claimed scientific figures was
born on 28 May 1879 in the
small village of Dalj, which was
then part of the Austro-Hun-
garian empire. He went on to a
successful and prolific career
in the field of civil engineering
before turning his attention to
geophysics and gaining interna-
tional renown for this theories
of long-term climate change
and the Earth's orbital cycles.
After graduating from the prestigious Vienna University
of Technology with a degree in civil engineering in 1902,
Milanković completed his doctorate two years later, and
earned a position at the well-known (and tongue-twisting)
engineering firm Adolf Baron Pittel Betonbau-Unterneh-
mung in Vienna, where he specialised in the novel use of
reinforced concrete and designed various dams, bridges,
viaducts, aqueducts and other structures throughout the
empire. In 1909, he was offered the chair of the applied
mathematics faculty in Belgrade, and eagerly moved
back to his ancestral homeland at the age of 30.
Not long after he had settled in the Serbian capital, the
region became engulfed in the Balkan Wars, followed by
World War II, which led to the young scientist's internment
by the Austro-Hungarian army in Budapest. Fortunately
he was allowed to work in the library of the Hungarian
Academy of Sciences, where he began pursuing his inter-
est in the study of solar climates and temperatures on
other planets. After the war ended, Milanković had his
first monograph published both in Serbia and Paris. The
publication won him considerable recognition in the field
and he went on to work with some of the world's most
prominent meteorologists and climatologist and further
develop his own theories in the 1920s.
Milanković's most known theories concern the cycle of
the Earth's glacial periods (or ice ages) - which are now
known as Milankovitch cycles - and the effect of solar
radiation as a result of the Earth's orbit. After his death
in Belgrade in 1958, craters on both the moon and Mars BGinfoBox
were named after him, as well as a minor planet. Matice srpske 3a, Tel. +381 11 4140 965
www.bginfobox.com
15 -29 January €8) and range in price up to 6000 RSD for court-side
SPENS seats, and up to 20,000 RSD for the full VIP treatment.
www.ehf-euro.com +381 11 262 14 50
Group A Belgrade
S e r b i a i s h os ti n g t h e 2 01 2 E H F E u ro H a n d b a l l 15 January 18:15 Poland vs Serbia
Championship from 15-29 January, with the Group C 15 January 20:15 Denmark vs Slovakia
preliminary round matches taking place in Novi Sad’s 17 January 18:15 Slovakia vs Poland
SPENS centre. While Group B may not include the 17 January 20:15 Serbia vs Denmark
Serbian team (which is playing its Group A matches 19 January 18:15 Poland vs Denmark
in Belgrade), it does feature the defending champions 19 January 20:15 Serbia vs Slovakia
France, as well as the always competitive teams from
Hungary, Spain and Russia, guaranteeing that there Group B Niš
will be some exciting hard-fought matches early on. 15 January 17:20 Germany vs Czech Republic
Always near the top of the world rankings, the Serbian 15 January 19:30 Sweden vs Fyr Macedonia
team may not be the odds on favourites to win the event, 17 January 18:15 Fyr Macedonia vs Germany
but star player Momir Ilić - who plays club handball for 17 January 20:15 Czech Republic vs Sweden
perennial German powerhouse THW Kiel - says that 19 January 18:15 Germany vs Sweden
anything short of a medal should be considered a 19 January 20:15 Czech Republic vs Fyr Macedonia
failure for the home team, although he did realistically
stop short of guaranteeing outright victory. Serbian Group C Novi Sad
head coach Vuković Veselin - who was also a very 16 January 18:15 France vs Spain
accomplished player during his 10-year international 16 January 20:15 Hungary vs Russia
career - echoes Ilić’s hope for a medal and thinks that 18 January 18:15 Russia vs France
the home crowd advantage will definitely help propel 18 January 20:15 Spain vs Hungary
the team to a strong showing. 20 January 18:15 Spain vs Russia
If you have a chance to make it to Belgrade later in 20 January 20:15 France vs Hungary
the month, the semifinals are scheduled for Friday, 27
January, while the finals will take place two days later Group D Vršac
on 29 January, both at Belgrade Arena. And as Europe 16 January 18:10 Norway vs Slovenia
is widely regarded as home to the best handball in the 16 January 20:10 Croatia vs Iceland
world, the tournament will likely provide a preview of the 18 January 18:10 Slovenia vs Croatia
top competition at the 2012 Olympics in London later in 18 January 20:10 Iceland vs Norway
the year - at much cheaper prices! Tickets for matches 20 January 18:10 Iceland vs Slovenia
in Novi Sad begin at only 800 RSD (or a bit less than 20 January 20:10 Croatia vs Norway
www.inyourpocket.com
February
2 - 4 February 2012
Beekeeping Fair
SPENS, www.pcelarins.org.rs
Exhibition and sales of honey, beekeeping equipment and
wine along with a cultural and artistic programme organized by
the folklore association Veliko Kolo. On Saturday, lectures are
held on various topics of interest in contemporary apiculture. 25 March 2012
NIS International Half Marathon
11 -12 February 2012 www.marathon.org.rs
Rumenačka Pihtijada The NIS International Half Marathon is a traditional circu-
Klare Feješ Mire 39, Rumenka lar race course with a total length of 21.0975 kilometers.
Held in the town of Rumenka, this two-day festival celebrates The route is traffic-free and passes through the urban
everyone’s favourite flakey Serbian pastry, the pita, and part of town and along the banks of the Danube. The
includes a competitive programme as well as exhibitions of race starts from Trg Slobode, and several other events
folk handicrafts and antiques, and the sale of wine, brandy, will be held at the same time, including the always en-
sausages and other traditional food products. tertaining baby crawl.
21 February 2012
Maskarada April
Old City Centre 18 - 20 April 2012
www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs Prose Fest
Novi Sad’s official carnival celebrations are organised Cultural Centre of Novi Sad, Kralja Petra I 26/I www.
by the Museum of Vojvodina, and are centered around a kcns.org.rs The International Festival of Prose was foun-
parade of masked participants through the old town from ded with the intention of taking literature back to its roots,
Trg Slobode to the the museum, where awards are given for namely, live and direct contact with the audience. During
the best masks. Categories include kids, adults and most the festival, eminent local and foreign writers read their
authentic masks. works in public spaces, and also go to high schools and
colleges to create a dialogue with pupils and students on
24 February - 4 March 2012 jointly selected topics.
40th International Film Festival
Arena Cineplex, www.fest.rs 6 - 14 April 2012
Novi Sad’s International Film Festival (or just FEST) will Easter Wine Road
take place this year on 40th time. The first FEST was held Pozorišni Trg
between 8-16 January 1971 under the slogan “Brave new What better way to celebrate Easter than a full week of wine
world” and was opened by the film “Mesh” by Robert Altman. tasting? Visitors can try - and purchase at reasonable prices
Since its inception, FEST has always had one major and - wine directly from individual producers, most of whom have
several supporting programmes, which includes numerous vineyards in the nearby hills of Fruška Gora. Stalls selling
publications, exhibitions, symposiums and other events that handicrafts and other souvenirs from the Vojvodina region
are held during the festival. will also be present.
14 - 21 April 2012
March Elite Open 2012
20 - 24 March Elite Tennis Club, Bulevar Jovana Dučića 35 www.elite-
Novi Sad Spring centar.rs In recent years, this boys and girls 16-and-under
SPENS; www.pokretgorana.org.rs tennis tournament has become one of the most competitive
Novi Sad Spring is a traditional event with nearly 200 events in southeast Europe. It’s a great opportunity for vi-
exhibitors in the field of horticulture, beekeeping, organic sitors to catch the best up-and-coming players from Serbia
agriculture and traditional crafts, which annually attracts and abroad before they become household names.
some 70,000 visitors over five days. The event is of great
ecological and educational significance, as it helps promote
a more responsible attitude towards nature and the environ-
ment, and raise ecological awareness of citizens of all ages.
www.inyourpocket.com
May
6 May 2012
Fruška Gora MTB Bike Marathon
www.mtbfanatic.org In 2012 the Fruška Gora cycling
marathon will celebrate its 20th anniversary. Control points
mark out the paths of three routes of different lengths
through the forests, and also provide refreshments, water,
fruit and chocolate to participants.
9 May 2012
Rhythm of Europe
Old City Centre, www.skcns.org Although Serbia is not
yet an EU member state, that doesn’t stop Novi Sad from
celebrating Europe Day on 9 May (which commemorates
the signing of the Schuman Declaration in 1950 and the
symbolic founding of the European community). This year’s
event has an varied programme, which includes an open-
air exhibition of posters and photographs on the theme
of Borders Within Us, some classical music and a large 25 - 26 May 2012
concert on Trg Slobode with bands from all over Europe. To Be Punk Festival
SKCNS Factory, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5 www.skcns.
18 - 20 May 2012 org. Launched by the Student Cultural Centre of Novi Sad back
International Youth Bicycle Race in 2008, To Be Punk has the distinction of being the first punk
www.cycling.rs The race is listed in the calendar of the UCI festival in Serbia. With an aim of redefining and enriching the
World Cycling Union and is the only international junior cycling music scene in the country, the festival will host some dozen
race in the territory of Serbia and the Balkans. bands from both Serbia and abroad over two days. Tickets
can be purchased in advance at the Mongoose music shop.
26 May 2012 and bold taste, the region is widely regarded as producing
Novi Sad Folklore Festival some of the best brandy in the country, with the most common
Štrand, www.fasplet.com. The Novi Sad Folklore Festival flavours being mulberry, plum, apricot and quince. In addition
(NFF) aims to bring together a number of ensembles from the to the brandy competition, the event also includes a diverse
country and folk music scene, in order to preserve, present and cultural and artistic programme that highlights attractions
promote the region’s traditional folk traditions, music and games such as monasteries, hunting and fishing, as well as a separate
to a wider audience. Long known as the ‘Serbian Athens’ and competition for strudel and other traditional foods.
cultural capital of the country, Novi Sad plays an important and
unique role keeping alive such traditions. 15 - 19 June 2012
Hearts in Harmony
Various Venues www.heartsinharmony.rs. Hearts in
June Harmony Novi Sad is innovative musical event consisting
1 - 3 June 2012 of workshops for people with disabilities who are able to
In Praise of Theatre Festival participate with the assistance of partially automated
Pozorište Mladih, www.ccfns.org.rs. Sponsored by the musicians (ie robots built for just that purpose). Hearts in
French Cultural Institute, this French language theatre festival Harmony is new initiative of the European Choir Federation
brings together some 300 children between the ages of 7 and Europa Cantat, with whose participation the festival is
14 for three days of activities, workshops and performances. organized in cooperation with the NGO Faith, love, hope.
Beginning with a parade through the streets of Novi Sad, the Serbian conductor Miodrag Blizanac will oversee parti-
first two days take place at the grand Youth Theatre, while the cipant from five countries (Hungary, Germany, Slovakia,
third and final days is held at the city beach Štrand. Croatia and Spain), who will give a large number of public
performances.
1 - 10 June 2012
Zmajeve Dečje Games 15 -17 June 2012
City Centre, www.zmajevedecjeigre.org.rs. The largest Another International Festival of Games and Music
festival of creativity for children in southeast Europe and the Štrand Beach, www.velikokolo.org. As the somewhat
oldest festival of its kind in all of Europe, the so-called Dragons uninspiring name suggests, this is indeed yet another fe-
Games include a multimedia programme for children and stival devoted to children’s games and activities - this time
young people that promotes all aspects of artistic creativity. marking the official end of the school year and beginning of
summer holidays. Children (and adults) from as far abroad
First half of June as Germany, Italy and Greece participate in a full programme
Koviljska Rakijada of events at the city beach.
Vojvodina Brigade 57, Kovilj, www.kovilj.rs. This prestigious
competition to choose the best traditional brandy - or rakija -
from the Vojvodina region has taken place annually in thevillage
of Kovilj since 1996. Known for their especially strong aroma
www.inyourpocket.com
Automation, Robotics and Mechatronics Fair International Plastic and Industrial Rubber Fair
1 - 3 February 2012 21 - 23 March 2012
A unique event in this part of Europe, this specialised fair A specialised fair of plastics and rubber, mainly attended by
(IFAM) of automation, robotics and mechatronics is mainly a those interested in furthering business to business relations,
business to business event, with a attracts product mana- namely manufacturers and suppliers of exposed and semi-
gers, developers, designers, production managers, technical finished plastic and rubber products.
directors, entrepreneurs and others. It is held concurrently
with a trade fair for Industrial and Professional Electronics Fair of Metallurgy
(INTRONIKA). 21 - 23 March 2012
A specialised fair of metallurgy, casting and tools.
Art Expo
1 - 6 March 2012 International Boat Show
Growing each year, the Art Expo brings together artists and 26 - 29 April 2012
art galleries, art associations and art collectors, as well as In addition to boat manufacturers and their representatives,
dealers and collectors of antiques and the general public. presentations will be made of equipment for yachts, sailing
In addition to exhibitions the events includes symposiums, boats, stable and outboard engines, equipment and marine
presentations by cultural institutions and performances vessels, diving and fishing, and clothing for sailors. Boat lovers
by artists. will have the opportunity to meet with others interested in the
development of nautical tourism, and it will greatly contribute
International Book Fair to an attractive exhibition space.
1 - 6 March 2012
The Novi Sad Book Fair brings together participants from Moto Bike Expo
the fields of literature, publishing, education and media, 26 - 29 April 2012
and promotes among other things new fiction, professional The unveiling of new models, the exhibition of superior quality
and scientific literature, text books, foreign languages and products,and a diverse programme dedicated to motorcycles,
children’s literature through a series of meetings, discussions bicycles and related equipment has made the fair a musts-see
and presentations. The most important part of the fair is the event. Attendees have the opportunity to see models of mo-
literary event named for famed author Laza Kostić. torcycles and bicycles of almost all types and classes, motorcycle
equipment, spare parts and products supporting activities.
International Education Fair
1 - 3 March 2012 International Agricultural Fair
The International Education Fair in Novi Sad Fair is a place 12 - 18 May 2012
where individuals, institutions and organizations discuss The annual agricultural fair is the largest fair event in all
innovations in education in Serbia. It provides the oppor- of Serbia and one of the largest of its kind in Europe (it’s
tunity to showcase their programmes at state and private also easily the second biggest event in Novi Sad after Exit,
universities, public and private colleges, higher secondary so booking accommodation well in advance is a must).
and primary schools, academies, national universities, It gathers the most important companies in the areas of
language schools, computer schools, open universities, agribusiness, agricultural production, mechanization and
scientific and professional institutions. Visitors can get livestock. Another highlight is the forum for farmers and
acquainted with the activities of student associations, others in the agricultural business to present their products.
information centers, youth co-operatives, the agency The event has became a trademark of the Novi Sad Fair
for training and adult education, publishing houses and (the oldest fairgrounds in Serbia), as well as a prestigious
institutes. place for the presentation and development of agribusiness.
There’s no better place to celebrate International Day of the Danube than in Novi Sad!
Originally founded in 1861, The Serbian National Theatre was rebuilt in 1981
“The only thing I can say about EXIT 06, it was PERFECT!
Very professional, amazing sound system .......and.......
need I say more?
Junior Jack
www.exitfest.org
Venues
Karađorđe Stadium B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3
SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of
Ticket agents Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 488
22 22, www.spens.rs
GIGSTIX Kralja Aleksandra 12, Pariski magazin, Synagogue B-2, Jevrejska 11
tix@gigstix.com, www.gigstix.com, tel. (+381) The Name of Mary Parish Church (The
21 482 48 16. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10.00 - Cathedral) C-2, Trg slobode
15.00, Closed Sun.
Biletservis C-2, IPS Bazar Store, Bulevar Mihajla
Pupina 1, tel. (+381) 21 423-810. 4Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. www.inyourpocket.com
Salaš 137
Međunarodni put 137
21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad)
Information and reservations:
+381 21 71 45 01 or +381 21 71 45 05
www.salas137.rs
In the old town centre, you’ll find that many of the signs are helpfully in both Serbian and English
Gymnas B-3. Teodora Pavlovića 28, tel. (+381) 21 Putnik Ilije Ognjanovića 24, tel. (+381) 21 66 15 555,
46 77 10, fax 474 07 04, www.gymnas.rs, gymnas@ recepcija@hotelputnik.rs, www.hotelputnik.rs. Another
neobee.net. Among the best hotels in Novi Sad. Its greatest of Novi Sad’s excellent business hotels, Putnik recently un-
shortcoming is that the town centre is not exactly at a walking derwent major renovations and is now one of the better value
distance from the hotel, but taxi is cheap and this should accommodation options in the city, especially considering its
not be too daunting. The rooms are elegantly furnished and central location just around the corner from Trg Slobode. In
no two rooms are alike. Hotel guests have free access to a the rooms the furnishings tend to be somewhat uninspired
fully equipped fitness centre and a sauna. Only breakfast is but comfortable enough, and the bathrooms are absolutely
served, no other meals. 19 rooms and 8 suites (singles €55, enormous. If you’re in town for the weekend, consider booking
doubles €75, triples €95, suites €90-110). Prices include VAT their special package for two, which includes two nights and
and breakfast. AP HUD FRKGL (G)«««« half-board at nearby restaurants Lipa and Sečuan (as they sha-
re the same owner) for only €90. 77 rooms and 6 apartments
Norcev Put Partizanskog Odreda bb, tel. (+381) 21 4800 (singles €39, doubles €54, apartments €63-72). «««
222, norcev@oiu.co.rs, www.norcev.rs. If a visit to the famed
monasteries of Fruška Gora is your primary reason for visiting Sajam B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. (+381) 21 42 02 66,
Novi Sad or if you’re just a fan of beautiful natural settings, htpsajam@eunet.rs, www.hotelsajam.co.rs. A very decent
then there is no better place to stay than the Norcev hotel and hotel, situated 2km from the town centre. Its proximity to Novi
recreational complex located smack in the middle of the mou- Sad Fair and peaceful surroundings make it especially suitable for
ntains. In addition to arranging walking tours of the surrounding business people. Renovated in 2007, the rooms are light and airy.
countryside, bird watching excursions and trips to the numerous One of very few hotels in Novi Sad offering non-smoking rooms.
monasteries, the facilities also include a full range of sports 65 rooms and 6 suites (singles €35, doubles €45, suites €40-
activities from an indoor swimming pool and fitness centre to 55). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APKGL «««
table tennis and chess room. A great choice for active families.
39 rooms and 5 apartments. APURKLFC ««« Vigor A-3, Jožef Atile 2, tel. (+381) 21 689 44 44, fax
46 81 60, www.hotelvigor.com, office@hotelvigor.com.
Novi Sad B-2., tel. (+381) 21 442 511, Bul. Jaše A new hotel with a modern design, slightly remote from the
Tomića bb, reservations@restorannovisad.rs. Situated centre of the town, situated not far from Ribarsko ostrvo.
right across the Central Bus and Railway Stations and well Its well-appointed rooms are bright and cosy, with stylish
connected to the other parts of the town via public buses details, and very nice bathrooms. You may find the LCD TV
network. Standard rooms are nice and clean, not overtly set a little to high for comfort. Hotel services include laundry,
stylish, but quite acceptable for a short stay. Your night’s sightseeing-tours upon request and breakfast specially
sleep will be a lot more restful if you request a room not prepared to meet any special health, dietary or religious
overlooking the street. 103 rooms and 9 suites (singles €57, requirements. 22 rooms and 1 suites (singles €43, doubles
doubles €68, triples €72,5, suites €85-87). Prices include VAT €57, triples €70, suites €86). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
and breakfast. APDOKL ««« APHRKGL (G)««
Hostels
Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel. (+381) 21 661 65 Podbara Đorđa Rajkovića 28, tel. (+381) 21 551 991,
94, www.belaladja.com. A popular traditional restaurant, hostel.podbara@gmail.com, www.hostel-novisad.com.
opened in 1852, with rooms for rent. Centrally located, it offers With three private rooms and one five-bed dorm, Podbara is
a hostel service, 9 rooms and two shared bathrooms. There more like a guest house than a hostel, and all the better for it.
is another Bela lađa hostel on Zlatna greda 15, where rooms Located in a newly built house a 15-minute or so walk north of
are decked out in wood panelling, equipped with cable TV and the old town, the rooms and common areas are quite spacious,
ensuite bathrooms. Kisačka 21: 9 rooms (singles, doubles, and the bright fully-furnished kitchen is a pleasure to cook in.
triples: €14-17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. Although it’s one of Novi Sad’s newest hostels, it already gets
Simboli: CC, klima, restoran, pušenje, P. Zlatna greda 15: 14 high marks from guests. 4 rooms (5-bed dorms €10, private
rooms (doubles, triples, 4-bed dorm, 5-bed dorm: €17). Prices doubles €40).
include VAT. Breakfast not included. APRGL
Smile Bulevar Oslobođenja 48, tel. (+381) 21 633 70
Braća Drinić Epicentar Branka Ćopića 122, tel. 85, hostel.smile@gmail.com, www.hostelsmile.com.
(+381) 21 674 82 81, hotelbracadrinic@beone.net, Located in a large block of flats and offices on Novi Sad’s
www.hotelbracadrinic.com. At a 10 minutes ride from main thoroughfare, Smile is roughly halfway between the bus
the town centre. The rooms offer the comfort of a good- and train stations and the old town. Formerly a small family
quality hostel and feature nice bathrooms. The overall apartment, it can either be described as cosy or cramped
impression is that the owners do not have much experience depending on ones point of view. English may or may not be
with running a hotel, but are keen to make a mark. It is not spoken. 3 rooms (6-bed dorm €10, 4-bed dorm €13, double
ideal for family visits because of the café on the ground room €20), all prices are per person.
floor equipped with slot machines. 20 rooms and 2 suites
(singles €41, doubles €49, triples €58, suites €71-89). Sova Ilije Ognjanovića 26, tel. (+381) 21 52 75 56,
Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL «« kontakt@hostelsova.com, www.hostelsova.com. Easily
one of our favourite hostels, not just in Novi Sad or Serbia, but
Downtown C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (+381) 69 139 77 anywhere. The hospitality of the couple that runs the place, Miki
08, www.hostelnovisad.com. The first hostel in Novi and Sanja, is legendary amongst backpackers and budget trav-
Sad, with downtown location, at the main town square. It ellers, and the whole place just has a great vibe to it. As far as
offers fine accommodation, great atmosphere, walls boldly facilities are concerned it has everything you could want, includ-
painted in bright colours, the occasional queues in front of ing comfy beds, lockers, a large common room and free rakija
the bathroom being the only downside. The hostel features upon arrival, and they arrange cheap daily tours to the main
a kitchen, free internet access, car/bike parking. 5 rooms sights in and around the city. Private accommodation is also
(singles €25, doubles €30, 6-bed dorm €11, 8-bed dorm: available in apartments upstairs and nearby buildings. Dorms
€10). Prices include VAT. 6RG €10, doubles, quads and private apartments €15 per person.
Lazin hostel C-2, Laze Telečkog 10, tel. (+381) Zeleno zvono Ilirona Ruvarca 26, tel. (+381) 21 64
63 44 37 03, www.lazinhostel.org. Situated in a 02 949, (+381) 60 070 29 63 galfi1@open.telekom.rs
small downtown street lined with cafés and restaurants.
Its fine rooms are arranged in two levels, each with a Mali Rooms Železnička 40, tel. (+381) 21 522 902,
shared bathroom, kitchen and a common room. The (+381) 63 1836 773, www.hostelmali.com hostel-
hostel features a bike parking room, free internet and mali@hotmail.co.uk
cable TV. 6 rooms and 2 suites (singles €20, doubles
€15, 4-bed dorm €13, 6-bed dorm €11, suites €30 ). City Hostel Radnička 21 tel. (+381) 21 644 72 08,
VAT included. PRL www.city hostel.rs, nscityhostel@gmail.com
Budget
Aurora Beogradski Kej 49b, tel. (+381) 21 4871-400,
office@hotelaurora.rs, www.hotelaurora.rs. Built in 2009,
the Aurora is an excellent value business class hotel located
on the banks of the Danube to the northeast of the city centre.
While the surroundings are not the most picturesque in town
(unless of course you find industrial zones appealing), the
centre is only a short drive or medium-length walk away, and
many of the rooms offer views of the river and Petrovaradin
fortress on the opposite bank. The rooms are also generously tub. Some of the rooms are in the attic, with a sloping roof.
large (25m2 for singles/doubles and a whopping 50m2 suites), The hotel offers non-smoking rooms and room service. 11
and service generally excellent. 42 rooms (singles 3450-3950 rooms and 2 suites (singles €45, doubles €55, triples €75,
RSD, doubles 4450 RSD, suites 5300-7800 RSD). « suites €100). VAT not included. APHGL««««
Duga A-3, Ćirila i Metodija 11b, tel. (+381) 21 46 70 00, Filip A-2, Joakima Vujića 14/V, tel. (+381) 21 631 08
fax 46 97 54, www.duga-radisic.co.rs, hotelduga@open. 76, apartmanfilip@gmail.com. A new, decent-looking
telekom.rs. A hotel with ungainly exterior on the outskirts of studio for two on the fifth floor of a building 3km away from
Novi Sad. The rooms are clean and basic, ideal for large groups of the centre of the town and 1km from the Railway Station.
young guests who do not care too much about the interior design. It comes with a well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, te-
The hotel features a tourist agency organising tours round Novi lephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen. Grocery
Sad and its neighbourhood, a basketball court, a shop, a beauty store, bakeries, bank, and bus stop are at stone’s throw. 1
parlour, a large hall for various festive events and a restaurant suite (€30). VAT not included. PR ««««
where you can always buy freshly roasted meat. 53 rooms and
8 suites (singles €33-40, doubles €42-48, triples €51-57, suites Fontana C-2, Nikole Pašića 27, tel. (+381) 21 662 17
€75-92). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APTKL «« 89, www.restoranfontana.com. A popular restaurant in
Novi Sad, famed for its traditional meat dishes, offering ro-
Rimski C-1, Jovana Cvijića 26, tel. (+381) 21 44 32 37, oms for rent. Situated close to the town centre. The rooms
fax 44 47 65, www.rimski.co.rs, rimski@seyampro.rs. A are spacious, parquet-floored and well-appointed, but the
short stroll away from the centre of the town. The rooms are décor is distastefully kitschy. Bear in mind that rooms are
clean but a little cramped and the suits are a far better option. atop the restaurant which is often used as the banquet or
The restaurant on the top floor feels a little claustrophobic wedding hall, with live music keeping the patrons enthralled
due to the sloping ceiling, but it has truly separate rooms well into the night. The restaurant has a very pretty terrace
for smokers and non-smokers. Although the hotel is quite with a fountain. 14 rooms (singles €35,5, doubles €42,
small, the helpful staff will make a genuine effort to meet your triples €51 ). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APK
requests - whether it is baby sitting or fax machine or confe-
rence room. 22 rooms and 5 suites (singles €30-50, doubles Mediteraneo C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 10, tel. (+381) 21
€40-60, suites €100-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. 42 71 35, www.hotelmediteraneo.rs, mediteraneo@sbb.
APHURKGL (G) «« rs. A cute little hotel in the very centre of the town, in a quiet
street near Dunavski Park. It is quite new and the rooms are
very pretty, furnished with funky and colourful items. Bre-
Guest houses akfast is served in your room or in Mediteraneo Restaurants
Planeta Inn B-2, corner of Jevrejska and Gajeva , tel. a few steps away from the hotel. On request, the friendly staff
(+381) 21 661 58 09, planetainnhotel@gmail.com, will arrange for you the pick-up, day trips, visits to theatre and
www.planetainn.com. The newest hotel (opened on June 1) museums. 11 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, triples €85).
in the city centre, just above and connected to “Planeta 021” Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRL
shopping centre. Exterior with air conditioners everywhere
isn’t promising, but don’t be discouraged. Pleasant rooms Villa Una Avijatičarska 9, tel. (+381) 21 31 14 28. In
with everything a modern person needs are on the top floor. a quiet part of the town, 4km from the centre. Apartments
Double rooms are very spacious, made for enjoyment. For are furnished with cable TV and well-appointed kitchen. Villa
food, you can choose between the hotel restaurant and Una has a lovely garden, surrounded with family houses. 6
ordering from any restaurant in the city. 16 rooms (2 singles suites (€40 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
€ 49, 14 doubles € 50). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
APR6KGL«««« Voyager C-2, Stražilovska 16, tel. (+381) 21 45 37
11, www.voyagerns.co.rs. Well-furnished apartments
Car Royal Apartments B-3, Cara Dušana 71, tel. (26-67m2) housed in a modern residential building, situated
(+381) 21 636 22 00, www.hotel-car.net, car.ap@sbb. not far from the town centre. Most apartments have PCs
rs. A new hotel, 3km from the town centre, aiming at the with internet connection and some are fitted with extra long
business traveller. The rooms are no-nonsense, modern beds to accommodate tall guests. 20 suites (€50-105).
and comfortable, each equipped with a hydro massage bath Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL «««
www.inyourpocket.com
Bistrot de Paris Dunavska 8, tel. (+381) 63 759 KFC Novosadskog Sajma 2, tel. (+381) 21 420
55 81. Hidden down one of the many narrow alleyways 405, www.kfc.rs. At the beginning of 2011, Novi
off Dunavska Street, despite the name there is nothing Sad’s first (and Serbia’s fourth after three in Belgrade)
remotely French about the place. Instead you will find Kentucky Fried Chicken opened on the ground floor of
what is perhaps the world’s smallest cantina serving new glistening glass building on the corner of Bulevar
a dozen or so Serbian dishes (mainly soups and hearty Oslobodenja and Novosadskog Sajma. It might not be
stews) to an endless stream of satisfied customers the healthiest meal you’ve ever eaten, but resisting the
- many of whom opt to take their meal back to the temptation of that deep fried chicken smell can be nearly
office or the nearby park. Bright, modern, fresh, fast, impossible for some. You can also expect a blast of ice
cheap and tasty are all adjectives that come to mind, cold AC during the summer, and free wireless internet.
which add up to a resounding recommendation from 4 Open 09:00-23:00 A PSTUL €
us. 4Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Closed
Sun. € APS McDonald’s Trg Slobode 3, tel. (+381) 21 423
938, www.mcdonalds.rs. For better or worse, you know
Foody! Modene 1-3, tel. (+381) 21 533 433, resto- exactly what to expect from the world’s most famous fast
ran@foody.rs, www.foody.rs. If Yahoo! saw this place’s food chain. Its sole Novi Sad location is in a beautifully
logo their lawyers might have something to say about it, renovated building in the southwest corner of Trg Slobode,
although they probably have bigger problems these days. whose façade alone gives the whole operation a extra shot
Not to be confused with the once mighty internet portal, of much needed class and sophistication. The standard
Foody! is a big, bright buffet restaurant just off the main menu meals will run you at least 355 dinar, while a Happy
square. The food itself has never impressed us and gets Meal™ will set you back 285, and there’s a children’s play
mixed reviews from locals, but the place is usually packed area where the little ones can burn off some of the calories
and the point-and-choose method of service is a definite after lunch.4Open 07:00-24:00, Sun 08:00-24:00 A
plus for visitors whose Serbian culinary vocabulary is PBSTUL
lacking. € A PSTL.
Stomi Gyros Dimitrija Tucovića 3, tel. (+381) 64 64
Index House Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1. This small 16 459. Hands down the best gyros in town, at least as
stand just east of the Bazar shopping centre, is the far as we’re concerned. The fact that they weigh out the
answer to the question: Where can you find the best the amount of meat you get on a small electronic scale
sandwiches in Novi Sad? With more topping combinati- may seem a bit stingy, but judging from our experience it’s
ons available than you will know what to do with, you can only to make sure that they don’t give you too little - ie, the
either opt for something off the menu or build your own. gyros are huge! Ordering your choice of meat, vegetable
Unless you’re starving the normal sized sandwiches and sauce in a tortilla, rather than on bread, makes it easier
should be more than filling, and if you don’t know what to keep your shirt clean, especially at 4am. Two locations,
to choose, try the Index - a Novi Sad classic that has one at the stadium and the other near the fair, are both
a bit of everything. open around the clock. Open 00:00-24:00 €.
Terasa Petrovaradinska Tvrđava bb, tel. (+381) Kamenjar Stari Kamenjar 83, 468 409, market-
21 44 77 88, www.mmmgroup.rs. Run by the same tours@nscable.net, markettours.wsc.rs. Located
company that owns several other slightly upmarket just outside Novi Sad in the village of the same name,
Italian restaurants in Novi Sad, everything here is done Kamenjar is not the easiest place to find, so taking a
well, including ambience, service and of course the food. taxi from the centre is recommended even if you have
While the arched ceilings and well-lit interior is incredibly your own transport, which will also give you an excuse to
inviting, coming all the up here and not sitting outside on have an extra glass or two of rakija. The somewhat run
the terrace almost defeats the purpose. Prices are a bit down and battered looking restaurant is a true Serbian
more than you can expect to pay in the city centre, but institution though, and more than worth the effort of
the views are more than worth the extra expense. Open getting there. It’s long been popular with various artist,
08:00-24:00 €€. politicians, celebrities and foreign journalists (especially
during Exit Festival), so you’re likely to be in good com-
pany, but reservations are a must at the weekends. The
Pizzerias traditionally prepared fish dishes are roundly excellent,
Kuća mala C-2, Laze Telečkog 4, tel. (+381) 21 42 as is the local wine to wash the food down with, and
27 28. Offers more than 40 different kinds of pizza made every meal should include a least a few courses. During
to chef’s original recipes, featuring uncommon ingredients the summer months there are weekly fish soup cooking
and lots of fresh vegetables. An idyllic atmosphere, just competitions, and every Autumn the premises are home
like in a movie - nice and smiling guests, nice and smiling to an artist’s colony, whose work adorns most of the walls
staff, nice music… Authentic décor of a typical house in inside. With advanced notice and weather permitting,
the 19th century Vojvodina. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, boat rides can be arranged to a protected island on the
Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. A BPSR opposite bank of the Danube, and there’s even talk of
one day building an eco camp there.
Mačak C-2, Beogradska 19, tel. (+381) 21 643 32
00. Located across the Danube in a beautiful setting of
an old building with Petrovaradin Fortress as a backdrop.
Most diners come here for pizzas, although the restaurant Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel (+381) 21 661 65 94.
offers quite a selection of various Italian dishes, including One of the oldest restaurants in town, delivering genuine
light salads suitable for vegetarians. The attentive staff will Serbian hospitality. It serves large portions of local and
suggest a local wine to accompany the meal. 4Open 08:00 international dishes, and the offer includes kid, veal and
- 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PS lamb roast. This place is known for a collection of 2000
bottles of wines from all over the world stacked on shelves
5m high, which line two of the restaurant walls. You can
Serbian select your wine from the upper shelves and the attentive
Astal šaren C-2, Mite Ružića 4, tel. (+381) 21 52 waiters will get it for you using the ladders conveniently
80 04. A tiny restaurant with authentic Serbian cuisine and supplied for that purpose. The restaurant offers rooms
ambiance, its tables covered with check tablecloths. The for rent, so if you have gorged yourself on all that great
short menu caters for meat fans, offering various grilled food and wine and feel somnolent, here is a place to take
dishes and fresh vegetable salads. The only home-made dish a nap. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. A PREL
is a veal soup which is a must order. The place is easy on the
pocket and the dishes are quickly served, so it is far better to
come here than waste your money away on fast food. 4Open www.inyourpocket.com
10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €. BPS
Local Specialties
For the main course, most restaurants in Novi Sad will
offer roštilj - different types of barbecued meat cuts
served with finely chopped onion. Although many world
nations prepare their meat in a similar style, Serbs have
managed to elevate barbecued meat to an art form, and
nowhere else will you have the opportunity to try such
specialties. The meat needs to be primed in a particular
way before it can be tossed on the grill, typically heated
with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs are a class of
their own, and the best of the bunch come from the
south-Serbian town of Leskovac. Types of barbecued
Gusan (The Gander) C-2, Zmaj Jovina 4, tel. meat include ćevapčići (cylinder-shaped minced meat),
(+381) 21 42 55 70. Housed in the basement of a pljeskavice (similar to a hamburger), kobasice (a special,
19th century building (one of the first 4 buildings in spicy type of sausage for the barbecue), ražnjići (chunks
town on two floors), this place is something between a of meat on a skewer), vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut
restaurant and a pub. It boasts a lovely shady terrace lengthwise), chicken liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc.
fenced off in the manner of traditional Serbian villages If you order the Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the
and offers a selection of beers and local dishes at more above specialties on one plate. If you order the leskovački
than reasonable prices. In the evening, it often hosts voz (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination,
gigs and DJ performances and draws sizeable crowds. but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so that
4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. E the various types of meat stay warm.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino B Terrace
R Internet 6 Animal friendly
novisad.inyourpocket.com
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com January - June 2012
32 CAFÉS
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino B Terrace
R Internet 6 Animal friendly
Almost everyone who visits Novi Sad is taken by its laid- London pub C-2, Laze Telečkog 15, tel. (+381) 21
back vibe. People are easy-going and known throughout 42 18 81. Brick walls and floors, wooden tables and
Serbia for their philosophy of eating, drinking and living the Union Jack. A large selection of draft beer (including
in the slow lane. No wonder, then, that its night scene Guinness) and spirits. You get to hear the 80s and 90s
lacks the hectic buzz of Belgrade nightlife. But fear not, chart hits and rock gigs are hosted regularly. It is not
you will find plenty to enjoy. Those who like clubbing uncommon for girls to end up dancing on the bar. 4Open
will have terrific time on Petrovaradin Fortress and you 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. BURE6
cannot go wrong if you visit small Laze Telečkog street
in the downtown pedestrian zone, packed with cafés, Red Cow Irish Pub Zmaj Jovina 28, tel. (+381) 21
restaurants and clubs. 427 136. Somewhat hidden down a small alleyway and
up a flight of stairs at the north end of Zmaj Jovina Street,
being located in one of the oldest buildings in all of Novi
Bars and Pubs Sad definitely lends it a touch of authentic Irish charm.
Berliner Pub Katolička Porta 2, tel. (+381) 63 503 Best of all they actually have Guinness on tap, as well as
519, berlinerpubnovisad@gmail.com. Located in the the Serbian standard Jelen and usually several others.
narrow alleyway to the north of the Cathedral, this pub Throw in another 40 types of bottled beer, frequent live
earns its name with a fine selection of beers on tap, in- concerts and generally cool crowd, and it’s safe to say that
cluding several varieties of the house speciality Scheider it’s one of our favourite watering holes in town.
Weisse (which is one of Bavaria’s finest). The place isn’t
huge, but the friendly staff, decent music and of course Ze Bar Laze Telečkog 9, tel. (+381) 62 571 300,
the beer, make it a mandatory stop on any old town pub ze.bar@lazeteleckog.rs, www.zebar.lazeteleckog.
crawl. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat,Sun 08:00-01:00. rs. One of the countless bars on the famed Laze Telečkog
street, it’s a popular place to grab a beer and meet up
City Pub C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (+381) 66 934 62 with friends before heading out to another bar or a club.
87, city.pub.ns@gmail.com. This subterranean pub is Keep an eye out for the zebra logo (yes the name is a play
near the Cathedral will look familiar to anyone who has on the Serbian spelling of zebra) and you can’t miss the
spent any significant amount of time (drinking) in the Czech place. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00
www.inyourpocket.com
Clubs
Club Capone Novosadskog Sajma 35 (Park Hotel),
tel. (+381) 64 927 77 77. Formerly known as Baltazar, this
is probably the best place in town for house music lovers. Its
minimalist interior design is nicely complemented by a huge
bar, almost 15m long, staffed with great bartenders. Club
queues are a frequent sight, and members and regular pa-
trons are given precedence. Don’t even think of trying to get
in with sneakers or a sweatshirt. Although it is an exclusive
spot in every respect, its prices are moderate, you can get a
glass of whiskey for €2. 4Open 23:00 - 04:00 BGPER
Enquire at the tourist office on Trg Slobode to see if there are any live concerts scheduled while you’re in town - chances are there will be!
Vinyl Club C-2, Laze Telečkog 17, tel. (+381) 21 69
799 766, vinylclubnbar@gmail.com. Although there is in Additional cafés and clubs
fact a vinyl motif (including a giant-sized turntable that serves
as a stage/DJ booth), the place is a bit more upscale than Indexova tribina C-3, Jiričekova bb, indeksova-
the name would otherwise suggest, with a modern design, 3bina@neobee.net, tel. (+381) 21 544 220. Open
uniformed staff and well-dressed clientele. Set across 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00.
three levels, which are roughly divided between a daytime Macchiato Liman B-3, Narodnog fronta 21c, tel.
café on the ground floor, a bar and pub in the middle, and a (+381) 21 24 4 54 08, Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat,
restaurant occupying an open loft-like space at the top - the Sun 07:00 - 01:00.
latter offers some excellent, and reasonably priced food, if Vanila Club C-2, Ulica Modene, tel. (+381) 65 544
you find yourself craving a snack but don’t want to leave. 20 00, vanilans7@gmail.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00
Open 08:00-03:00 Verige B-2, B-1, Kisačka 60, tel. (+381) 64 82
00 605, verigeclub@neobee.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00
Wheels C-2, Natošićeva 4, tel. (+381) 21 52 25 57.
The only all jazz club in town. Like any other jazz club, it
draws people who come to listen to good music and weigh
up the performers, and who could not care less about the Symbol key
décor of the club or the outfit of its patrons. Apart from
the mainstream jazz, on certain nights the club features P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
French gitan jazz, electro jazz, and even fado and flamenco
performances. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. PE E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Skochko’s bar C-2, Zmaj Jovina 21/1, tel. (+381)
63 45 82 83. A bar with a range of both alchohol G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
and non alchocol coctails based on coffee. Walls O Casino B Terrace
are covered with paintings of artists from Novi Sad, and
spave is filled with nice smell of cuban cigars. This meet- R Internet 6 Animal friendly
ing point is the right choice if you wish to have a pleasan
conversation with frineds. 4Open 08:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B www.inyourpocket.com
Essentials can see one of the pockmarks on the town face - the
Downtown - pedestrian zone C-2. The heart of the old cannon ball which remained buried in the building exterior
town features almost all must-see attractions in Novi Sad. walls (where it landed during the 1849 shelling of the
The pedestrian zone consists of Zmaj Jovina, Pašićeva, town). A characteristic feature of these old streets are
Svetozara Miletića, Laze Telečkog, part of Dunavska streets, numerous passageways and courtyards concealing many
Katolička porta and Trg slobode squares. The Freedom restaurants, cafés and boutiques, so plunge in and enjoy.
Square (Trg slobode) has been the stage for most significant The latest town attraction is the small street of Laze
events, whether cultural or political. It is also the usual Telečkog, full of cafés, bars and restaurants.
rendezvous point and the man place for feeding fat pigeons.
The green symbol of the town C-2 The living, green
symbol of Novi Sad is the Hackberry (Celtis Australis) tree
located in the promenade zone in Modene street. This 18 m
tall giant has a treetop 22 m in diameter and the perimeter
of the trunk is around 3,5 m. It was protected as a Natural
monument in 1978 due to its biological and outstanding
ambient value.
Novi Sad’s beach on the Danube is the place to be during the warmer months of the year
Historic Churches
When you visit churches and other religious buildings,
you are expected to behave respectfully and speak
quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and
you can enter even during a service, but try not to
interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not
allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt,
with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in
the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos
with permission only.
Th e N a m e o f M a r y Pa r i s h C h u r c h - Th e
Cathedral C-2, Trg slobode. A Roman Catholic church,
built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style on the foundation of an
old Roman Catholic church. It has stained-glass windows
and the altar made of carved wood from Tyrol. The church
sometimes schedules concerts on the organs. The Cathedral is the city’s second most-recognizable sight
The City Museum of Novi Sad is located in Petrovaradin Fortress, and is a must-see for those interested in the history of
the city and the region
C i t y M u s e u m o f N ov i S a d - F o r e i g n A r t
Collection C-2, Dunavska 29, tel. 55 12 39. A
permanent display of Doctor Branko Ilić’s legacy, consisting
of the Western European schools from the Renaissance
to the 20th century, as well as applied arts items. 4Open
09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children
50 dinars.
The Danube Park C-2. The main town park and the
loveliest. Once there was a fen overgrown with reeds on its
site, which was developed into a park in 1895. Today there
is a smallish lake in the heart of the park, which has a tiny
island in its middle and ducks and swans are gliding in the
lake. The park boasts over 250 species of plants, numerous
sculptures, and part of it is turned into a kids playground.
Museums
Mu seum of Vojvodina C-2, Dunavska 35 -37,
tel. (+381) 21 42 05 66, www.muzejvojvodine.org.
rs. A permanent display of archaeological, historical and
ethnographic artefacts relevant to Vojvodina, dating from the
Palaeolithic to the middle of the 20th century. Three helmets
from late Antique, that is Roman period, only one being
displayed, and two under restoration, are very impressive.
These priceless helmets are considered to be made in IV
century. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100
dinars, children and students 50 dinars.
Fr u š k a G o r a m o n a s te r i e s M a n y l e ge n d s
are associated with foundation of monasteries.
Ac c o rd i n g to t h e fi r s t wri t te n d o c u m e n t t h ey
were founded from the15 to the 18 centur y as
an endowment of Serbian despots. They are the
Keepers of the identity of Serbian people. The
tample, small church (some of them), bell tower,
sleeping quarters, farm buildings and cultivable soil
are a part of a monastery complex. Monasteries are:
Krušedol, Grgeteg, Velika Remeta, Novo Hopovo,
Staro Hopovo, Ravanica, Jazak, Mala Remeta,
Rakovac, Beočin, Šišatovac, Petkovica, Kuveždin,
Divša, Privina Glava, Bešenovo.
Notable persons from Serbian history lie buried
in Krušedol Monastery: Despot Đurađ Branković,
King Milan Obrenović, Princess Ljubica, Patriarch
Arsenije III Čarnojević... Most of the monasteries
were ravaged and looted during the 2nd World War
and they enjoy UNESCO protection (wich did not stop Practically within walking distance of Novi Sad, the
Nato forces from damaging six monasteries in the village of Sremski Karlovci is packed with sights
1999 air campaign against Serbia).
of the City, City Hall (Magistrat) from whose balcony
Sremski Karlovci. A small town on the Danube Serbian Vojvodina was declared in 1848, a pharmacy
bank, some 6km away from Novi Sad. It is rightly in Straser house (from early 19th centur y, still
call ed a town -museum, du e to i ts remarkabl y functioning), ‘Four Lions’ fountain (the legend says
preserved town nucleus in the baroque style, dating that whoever drinks from the fountain will come back
from the 18th and 19th centuries. You can make a to Sremski Karlovci some day).
tour of all the attractions on foot. The first mention of By all means visit the museum of honey and sample
this settlement dates back from 1308. In 1713, when wines in wine cellars. Sremski Karlovci is famous for
the see of the Orthodox Metropolitan Bishop moved its authentic liqueur wine, Bermet, rumoured to have
to Karlovci, it became the spiritual and cultural been enjoyed by those on the Titanic.
centre of Serbs in the 18th and 19th centuries. I f you get hungr y, pick one o f th e restaurants
The first Serbian grammar school opened in Karlovci featuring Serbian cuisine: A Small House in Srem
in 1791 and still is functional. You can also see the (Kućerak u Sremu), Four Lions or the Danube fish
Patriarchal Palace (displaying artefacts from the restaurant. Sremski Karlovic hosts various events
treasury of the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox throughout the year - ‘Brankovo kolo’ (festival of
Church) orthodox churches (Cathedral, Lower and poetry), grape harvest celebration, art colonies...
Upper Churches), a Roman Catholic church, Museum
www.inyourpocket.com
Located at the edge of the city centre, Danube Park is full of sights
Sightseeing
Belgrade fortress Located on a hill overlooking the
confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans
were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in
the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian
Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests,
the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt
and restructured. It took on its present shape round the
end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed
destroyed nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress
consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan
Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th
century on a plateau in front of the fortress, which was
cleared for centuries to allow for an unobstructed view of
the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its
many shaded benches, random sculptures, an art pavilion,
zoo, amusement park and souvenir vendors. It is a favourite
haunt for chess players, squirrels and couples in love.
Knez Mihailova Street The main promenade and
shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between
Arriving… Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince
Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern
By car Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came
Belgrade lies at the intersection of the E-70 and E-75 to the throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was
motorways. You cannot miss the city, since the motorway assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in
runs close to the centre, a ring-road still being under 1868. Buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th
construction. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h century adorn the street.
unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Skadarlija Skadarska Street. A vintage street that dates
from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area is
By train dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The Two
The Central Railway Station is located near the Old Town. Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The
Beside the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima
place in town where you should beware of pickpockets. The dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries,
station offers exchange offices, ATMs, left luggage office, antiques and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century,
and a tourist info centre. When you exit the station, ignore it became a hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a
the taxi sharks and hail one a little down the street, if you bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters,
should so wish. There is a tram stop outside the station and actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose
building, and line N°2, which circles around Old Town, may presence accounts for the higher prices and removal
be the most convenient. Purchase your fare at a kiosk or of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menus. The
on board (29 or 40 dinars respectively). If the prospect of a evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional
steep 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The great
up Balkanska Street and reach the heart of the city - Terazije. atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the
mill food and indifferent waiters.
By bus
The Central Bus Station sits next to the Central Railway
Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi
crooks apply here. The same goes for the info on how to get to Tourist information
the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs
and left luggage office. You can find a tourist info centre at Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of
the neighbouring railway station. Belgrade - T O B:
Belgrade Port (from March 15 untill November
Culture 15) , tel. (+381) 11 32 88 246. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00
Belgrade Arena Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. Nikola Tesla Airport tel. (+381) 11 20 97 828, info-
(+381) 11 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd.com aerodrom@serbia.travel.
Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C-2, Makedonska 4Open 08:00 - 22:00.
22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www. domomladine.org Central Railway Station tel. (+381) 11 36 12 732,
Dom sindikata Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 bginfo.stanica@tob.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
32 34 849. 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Expo XXI Centre Španskih boraca 74A, tel. (+381) Knez Mihailova 6 tel. (+381) 11 32 81 859, bginfo.
11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs knezmihailova@ tob.co.rs4Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Guarnerius Džorža Vašingtona 12, tel. (+381) 11 334 Closed Sun.
52 37, www.guarneris.rs
Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C-2, Studentski
trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 05 50, www.kolarac.rs
Hotels
Park Njegoševa 2-4, (+381) 364 03 83. A hotel right
smack in the centre of the city, this is well equiped place
with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. One
key feature is the in-house gym which can be used free-of-
charge and massages and relaxation in the Jakuzzi can be
enjoyed at discount rates.The restaurant serves domestic
and international cuisine, and also lays on business lunches,
cocktails, banquets, weddings receptions.4128 rooms
(singles €40-65, doubles €70-90, triples €105-125, suites
€90-100). Price include breakfast. ABPLR
www.inyourpocket.com
Banks
Banca Intesa C-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 32 Office furniture
Erste Bank B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 5, tel. 0800 Astra, Đakona Avakuma 33, tel. (+381) 21 641 15 14,
201 201 www.astrans.net
Komercijalna Bank B-2, Kralja Petra I 11, tel. (+381) Ivex B-3, Cara Dušana 26, tel. (+381) 21 46 90 25,
21 52 12 86 www.ivexns.co.rs
Meridian Bank-Credit Agricole Group B-2, Braće
Ribnikar 4-6, tel. (+381) 21 487 68 76
Razvojna Banka Vojvodine C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Translators
Pupina 25, tel. (+381) 21 557347 Proverbum B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11/IV, tel. (+381)
NLB Bank C-2, Trg Mladenaca 1-3, tel. (+381) 21 21 472 52 27, www.proverbum.com.
661 55 00
Piraeus Bank C-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 68, tel. (+381) Udruženje naučnih i stručnih prevodilaca
21 68 93 756 Vojvodine C-3, Resavska 3, tel. (+381) 21 635 06 64
Varadinski Most leads into central Novi Sad from Petrovaradin in the east, and is beautifully illuminated at night
Tennis
Spa & Beauty Salons SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of
Dermomedica C-2, Dunavska 28, tel. (+381) 21 45 Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 52 13
66 13. Fit-vibe, LPG, Hair & Skin IPL. 32. 4Open 07:00 - 22:00 1 hour 350-800 dinars.
Regina B-2, Gogoljeva 13, tel. (+381) 21 54 25 92.
Beauty parlour, solarium, body treatments.
Opticians
Look & Look B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 92, tel. (+381)
Fitness Clubs 21 54 46 44. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00,
Flex C-2, Sutjeska 2 (SPENS), tel. (+381) 21 488 22 Closed Sun
43. Body building and Fitness Center.
Gymnas Hotel B-3, Teodora Pavlovica 28, tel. (+381)
21 46 92 85. Exercise Gym, Sauna, Massage Service. Photo service
Mean Machine Fitness Center B-2, Omladinskog Canon M B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 4b, tel. (+381)
pokreta 7-9, tel. (+381) 21 50 41 84. Ladies only. 21 477 00 00
Dry cleaners
Elegant B-3, Lasla Gala 9, tel. (+381) 21 661 51 15. Bookshops
4Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Mamut Megastore C-2, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. (+381)
Pop’s B -2, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar 21 661 41 31. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.
oslobođenja 102, tel. (+381) 21 636 76 45. 4Open IPS Bazar Store C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1,
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. tel. (+381) 21 423-810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 17:00.
Launderettes
Una A-1, Rumenačka 39, tel. (+381) 21 51 05 40. Gifts & Souvenirs
4Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. City gallery Zmaj Jovina 22 – Ilije Ognjanovića 4, tel.
(+381) 21 421 651, 063 85 99 318, www.citygallery.
co.rs, martas@neobee.net, 4Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat
Libraries 10:00 - 15:00
City Library C-2, Dunavska 1, tel. (+381) 21 45 12 Ister souvenir Dunavska 8, tel. (+381) 21 52 76
33. 4Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. 62, istersuvenir@yahoo.com4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
Matica Srpska Library C-2, Matice srpske 1, tel. 09:00 - 15:00
(+381) 21 42 01 99. 4Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - Tradicija B-2, Jevrejska 23 (Passage Papilon), tel.
13:30, Closed Sun. (+381) 63 36 40 02. Orthodox Icons. 4Open 09:30 -
20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Money transfer
Western Union, tel. (+381) 011 330 03 00. Money Markets
transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Futoška pijaca B-2, Jevrejska 42, tel. (+381) 21 661
Novi Sad, in EUR only. 67 42. 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
Riblja pijaca C-2, Trg Republike 18, tel. (+381) 21 52
49 27, 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
3
Novi Sad
50 Index
Serbia