COASTS

Key Terms:
(a) Coastline – the line where the sea and land meet

(b) Coast – the strip of land extending from the coastline, which borders the
sea to where the land rises inland

(c) Shore – the zone lying between the low watermark to high watermark.
consists of the foreshore and the backshore

(d) Backshore – the zone between average high tide level and coastline

(e) Foreshore – the lower zone of the beach lying between low and high
water level
 WAVES:

Wave - an oscillatory movement of water caused by the friction or energy

of the wind along the surface of the water

Formation:
the friction between the wind and the surface of the water causes the
water to move in an oscillatory motion.

When shallow water is reached, the crest (peak) of the wave becomes
steep and the waves are thrust forward by the energy in the circular motion
and break into a foam towards the shore.

The forward plunging motion is referred to as the swash and the return
of the water towards the sea (due to gravity) is called the backwash.

Waves with a stronger swash than backwash are called constructive or

depositional waves. Waves with a stronger backwash than the swash are
called destructive or erosional waves.

Wave Terminology

Crest – highest point of the wave

Trough – the lowest part of the wave

Wave Height – the distance between the crest and the trough

Wavelength – the distance between two successive crests

Wave Period – the time taken to travel through one wavelength

Wave Velocity – the speed of movement of the wave

TYPES OF WAVES (CONSTRUCTIVE AND DESTRUCTIVE WAVES)

(1) Constructive waves -

these are usually small waves with long wavelength (up to
100m) and a low frequency (about 6 – 8 waves per minute). The waves
gently spill onto the shore, pushing some material up the shore. The
backwash is weak as it loses energy and volume due to the water moving
downward through beach material so it has little energy to transport
material back down the beach into the sea.

(2) Destructive waves -

often large waves, steep in form with a short wavelength
(around 20m) and a high frequency (over 10 per minute). These waves
steepen towards the beach, with the near vertical breaking (of the waves)
causing a powerful backwash which can move move considerable amounts
of sediments.
 WAVE EROSION
(1) Hydraulic action - wearing away and removal of material by the action of
water only (mostly by impact of waves).
(2) Abrasion/corrasion – wearing away of coastline by materials carried in the
water.
(3) Solution/corrosion – water dissolves minerals in the rocks of the coastline
(4) Attrition – materials carried in the water are worn down (often rounded)
due to impact with other materials carried in the water as well
with materials making up the coastline.

TRANSPORT
(1) Solution/dissolved load – soluble materials are dissolved and transported
in solution
(2) Suspension – very small particles are held in the body of the water for long
periods and so move with the water
(3) Saltation – material moves in a hopping or bouncing manner. Small rocks
and pebbles are lifted for a short distance before it returns to
the bed
(4) Traction – heavy materials (large rocks) are dragged or rolled along the sea
bed

Wave Refaction and Longshore Drift

Wave Refraction – as waves approach an irregular coastline they are

refracted, that is, they bend. This occurs due to increased
friction as the wave approaches shallow water.

Longshore Drift – waves approaching at an angle to the shore can result in

longshore drift. This is where materials are moved (in one
direction) along the shore.
The swash pushes material at an angle up the shore
(due to wave refraction). The backwash, however pulls material
perpendicular (at a right angle) to the shore due to gravity. This
may be repeated causing material to be moved along the shore.
COASTAL FEATURES

(1) Erosional
(a) Cliff
(b) Headlands and bays
(c) Wave cut shore or wave cut platforms
(d) Caves
(e) Arches
(f) Stacks/stumps
(g) Blowholes or gloups

(2) Depositional
(a) Beaches
(b) Spits , Bars and Tombolos
(c) Mudflats
(d) Sand dunes