Apparel Pattern

Designing
Apparel Pattern
Designing

Aswath N Hiraskar
Notion Press
5 Muthu Kalathy Street, Triplicane,
Chennai - 600 005
First Published by Notion Press 2014
Copyright © Aswath N Hiraskar 2014
All Rights Reserved.
ISBN: 978-93-84391-41-6

This book has been published in good faith that the work of the author is original. All
efforts have been taken to make the material error-free. However, the author and the
publisher disclaim the responsibility.

No part of this book may be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without
written permission from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in
critical articles and reviews.
 I would like to thank
Rijutha. A.Hiraskar for her assistance.
 CONTENTS

1. Introduction 1
2. Principle of Fitting 2
3. Tools and Equipment for Pattern Making 3
4. Short Forms 4
5. Sewing Machine 5
6. Measure Body Points 7
7. Division Chart of Measurements 8
8. Infants 10
9. Basic Infant’s Pant Block for Size 74 12
10. Creation Of Spec for Infant’s Shirt 14
11. Creation Of Spec for Infant’s Jabla 18
12. Children (Pre-Schoolers) 25
13. Creation of Spec For Pre-Schooler’s Shirt 27
14. School Children – Boys 29
15. School Children – Girls 33
16. Men 37
17. Creation of Spec for Men’s Pant 38
18. Creation Spec for Men’s Shirt 46
19. The Basic Men’s Blazer Block 59
20. Women’s 66
21. Creation of Spec for Women’s Pant 67
22. Creation of Spec for Women’s Shirt 71
23. Creation of Spec for Women’s Formal Jacket 78
24. Creation of Spec for Women’s Kameez 90
25. Indian Saree Blouse 94
26. Creation of Spec for Men’s Brief 124
27. Pattern Grading 130
28. The Fabric Yield of Different Garments Against Different Fabrics 135
 INTRODUCTION

Fashion is a colourful world, and pattern making is an art that adds bright colours to
this world. The origin of this art is discipline and standard introductory methods that
make it very simple and easy to learn.
The sudden changes that occur in the world of fashion are mostly because of pattern
making. A pattern made of a good combination of colours and clever ideas adds to the
beauty and physique of a person. Varieties of designs and techniques give different
looks to the garment. Even a very simple garment looks beautiful when it is designed
in a standard way with suitable colour combinations.
Fashion trends change with the passage of time and generations. Though different
people desire different designs and fabrics, pattern making always meets the needs of
each individual.
As we all know, for a human being air, water, food, clothes and shelter are important
to live. In the same manner, when it comes to fashion, pattern making plays a vital role.
Industrial Pattern Making Manual is especially authored for fashion graduates and
postgraduate students. This book helps students to learn industrial spec sheet and
industrial pattern making in an easy and sensitive manner. This manual is helpful not
only for students, but also for domestic tailors, garment employees and beginners.
Nowadays, a new method known as ‘flat pattern making’ is used on a regular basis.
In flat pattern making, one can make many sizes at a time. Understanding the basic
blocks with the help of sketches is nothing but flat pattern making. Here, we have used
this method to help you learn in a simple way.
This manual includes ‘principal of fitting’, ‘sewing machine: its types and functions’,
‘short forms’, ‘tools and equipment for pattern making’ etc.
To prepare garment measurement spec from key measurement spec, we need to
add an extra measurement to the actual body measurement. This conversion has been
explained here in an easy and understandable manner for all the age groups right from
new-borns to adults. This has been explained in a group-wise manner in both European
and American standards.
Our manual also explains pattern grading, marker making and low-rise
measurements. Key measurement spec and garment spec sheet has been given here
under the same roof.
Note: Here, pattern making is taught without taking the seam. If at all there is a need
to take the seam, then the seam included for a particular part of the garment is given
for your convenience.
 PRINCIPLE OF FITTING

The fitting of the garments stitched are according to the region and culture of the
different people around the globe. The fittings are of the following types:
Formal fit,
Casual fit,
Slim fit
 Formal fit: It is also referred to as the royal fitting. The formal fit is suitable for men’s
garments, whereas not much for ladies’ garments. This fitting is used in garments like suits,
trousers, shirts, skirts, tops, salwar kameez, cholis, and dresses, especially for traditional wear.
This is the most comfortable fit on the whole and gives a good look and a good feeling too.
 Casual fit: Generally suitable for hardworking people, sportsmen, defence people etc.
Cargo styles, jackets, pyjamas, jabla, and night wear make use of casual fitting. The very free
fitting that people prefer is the casual fitting. Infants and children are mostly comfortable in
casual wear.
 Slim fit: (It is of 2 types)
Skin fit: Skin fit is preferable only when we are most comfortable in it. Skin fit isn’t always
user-friendly in accordance to the health viz; inner garments, top garments or BTM garments. It
is mostly useful for skin-tight ladies’ garments.
Formal slim fit: The formal slim fit comes in between the slim fit and formal fit. This
fitting is suitable for such users who prefer wearing well-fitting garments. Formal slim fit is
used with fabrics like lycra, knitted, jeans etc. The formal slim fit is useful for physical activities
like exercising and so on. Generally, the female garments use formal slim fit to ensure comfort,
especially for the Indian garments.
Note: Skin fit clothes like woven garments leads to dangerous health problems like cancer.
 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR PATTERN MAKING

Measurement rule tape – for taking measurements

Pencil – for drafting
Pen – for writing measurements and instructions
Paper (thick and thin) – for making patterns
Eraser – to erase the mistakes on the paper
Sharpener – to sharpen the pencil
Set square – to draw angle lines
Metric long scale – to draw the long length lines
Protractor – to measure angles
French curve scale – to draw curves; varieties of French curve scales are available
Scissor set – for cutting purposes
Pressing wheel (tracing wheel) – for tracing simultaneously on two or more papers or
layers of cloth
Stapler – to combine papers
Needle set – for knitting
Thread – for knitting
Finger safety ring – used for safety while knitting
Tailoring chalk – for drafting on clothes
Notch player – to make markings on paper
Calculator – to calculate division of measurements
Cello tape – used for paper patching
Highlight pen – to highlight important measurements or sentences
Trimmer – used to trim thread after knitting
 SHORT FORMS

We have used short forms for a few words as it will be easy when used often. They are
as follows:

Back BK New born N-B

Centre back CB Waist Band W/B
High Shoulder Front yoke FRT YK
point HSP Cut/seam C/S
Front FRT Shoulder point SP
Centre front CF Cargo pocket CRG PKT
Shoulder SLD Side SD
Neck NK Cut/seam C/S
Neck band NK-Band Shoulder point SP
Back rise B-Rise Cargo pocket CRG PKT
Sleeve SLV Side SD
Short-sleeve S/S Bottom BTM
Long-sleeve L/S Label LBL
Sleeve placket SLV-PLKT Inseam INSM
Front rise F-Rise Out seam OTSM
Loop LP Height HT
Placket PLKT Chest CT
Placement PLCMT Breast BST
Pocket PKT Cuff CF
Flap FLP Lapel LPL
Yoke YK Needle NDL
Back yoke BK-YK Elastic ELST
Collar CLR Embroidery EMB
Month M Button BTN
Year YR Buttonhole BTN HL
 SEWING MACHINE

The sewing machine was invented in the 19th century by the Germans. It was mostly
well developed in the 20th century in countries like Japan, China, USA, India and other
European countries.
The different kinds of sewing machines and their functions are as given below:
 Single needle machine – In this machine, the stitch is of two thread lock type.
Chain stitch type is also found in certain single stitch machines.
 Double needle machine - It is very similar to the above machine. The distance
between both the stitches is 1/4”. Here the feed-off arm (fell seam/ lap seam) folder
can be set.
 Triple needle machine – It may be classified into two categories:
1. The machine itself has three needles with the distance of 1/8” from each other
between all the three stitches.
2. The other type consists of both single and double needle machines. Here the
single needle machine is used to get a single stitch in between the two stitches
of the double needle machine.
This holds good even for the chain stitch machines.
 Over-lock machine - It is basically of three types:
1. Three thread machine – This machine is used for ordinary over-lock, only
for woven fabrics. Baby locks can also be made.
2. Four thread machine – This machine is suitable for knitted fabrics. Baby
locks can also be made.
3. Five thread machine – Here, ordinary over lock with single chain stitch can
be obtained. It is mostly used for 3/8” seam safety stitches.
 Multi-needle elastic stitch machine – This machine is used for WB, FRT
placket, and elastic finishing. The number of needles of this kind may range from one
to twenty-three and corresponding number of stitches.
 Smocking machine – It consists of two types:
1. This machine has two needles at the top and one elastic thread at the BTM.
2. It consists of only a single elastic thread and no extra threads. The number of
needles of this kind may range from one to twenty-three and corresponding
number of stitches
 Flat lock machine - It is classified into three types:
1. Three thread lock – It has two needles at the top and a single needle at the
BTM whose zigzag stitch locks the double stitch.
6  Apparel Pattern Designing

2. Four thread lock – Here there are three needles at the top and a single
needle at the BTM whose zigzag stitch locks the triple stitch.
3. Five thread lock – It consists of triple needle stitch at the top, above which
a zigzag stitch locks the triple stitch, while another zigzag stitch locks the top
three stitches from the BTM.
 Buttonhole machine – It comes in two types:
1. Ordinary buttonhole – The button holes of sizes ranging from 3/16” to 1½”
can be obtained.
2. Key hole – Here the sizes of the button hole ranges from ½” to 1½”. This
machine is specially used for blazers, jackets, trousers, jean garments and heavy
woven garments.
 Button machine – Different types of buttons, like two-hole buttons and four-hole
buttons, can be attached using this machine.
 Snap button machine – The various kinds of snaps can be fixed using this
machine. The corresponding dyes for each snap should be used.
 Bar tuck machine – Bar tuck is fixed at the most sensitive parts of the garment,
such that it can guard those parts. It is basically used for jean garments, trousers,
jackets and so on. It can also be used for fashionable purposes.
Faggoting machine – This machine makes holes and gives a stitch surrounding
that hole for fashionable purposes.
Pico-ting machine – It gives knit stitches to the edges of garments. It is even
referred to as a zigzag machine.
 Rise stitch machine – This machine gives stitches in the form of dots. The sizes
of dots range from 2mm to 5mm.
 Saddle stitch machine – This machine has an ordinary needle at the top and a
fork needle at the BTM. The top needle stitches, whereas the fork needle locks it from
the BTM. Mostly CP-12 needle is used.
 Sleeve attaching machine – Sleeves can be attached in multiple ways, e.g.
blazer sleeve, puff sleeve, different gather sleeve, ordinary sleeve and so on.
 Cut pocket machine – This machine is used for making welt pockets, single bone
pockets and double-bone pockets.
 Blind stitch machine – It is used for stitching BTM hem and also for fashionable
stitches. It is called an invisible stitch.
 Heavy duty machine – It is used for stitching jean garments.
 31K machine – It is specially used to stitch leather garments.
 Embroidery machine – Used for multiple purposes like zigzag, Pico, and different
types of manual embroideries.
 Multiple embroidery stitching computer machine – Ninety-nine types of
embroidery stitches can be obtained by using this machine.
 MEASURE BODY POINTS

shoulder neck line

skye depth arm hole straight
across frt-bk line
bicep chest line
breast line
arm line
sleeve length elbow line
nape to waist
waist line
waist to hip
body rise
wrist line
hip line
thigh or crutch
width line

waist to knee waist to bottom

knee line

calf line

ankle
 DIVISION CHART OF MEASUREMENTS

(In metric and imperial)

Divisions 2 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 16 20 24 32 64
22” 56cm 11” 7 5/16” 5 ½” 4 3/8” 3 5/8” 2 ¾” 2 3/16” 1¾” 1 3/8” 1 1/8” 15/16” 11/16” 3/8”
14cm 11.2cm 9.3cm 7cm 5.6cm 4.65cm 3.5cm 2.8cm 2.3cm 1.75cm 0.9cm
28cm 18.6cm
24” 61cm 12” 8” 20.3cm 6” 4 ¾” 4” 3” 7.6cm 2 3/8” 2” 5cm 1 ½” 1 3/16” 1” 2.5cm ¾” 3/8”
8  Apparel Pattern Designing

30.5cm 15.25cm 12.2cm 10.2cm 6.1cm 3.8cm 3cm 1.9cm 1cm

26” 66cm 13” 8 5/8” 6 ½” 5 ¼” 4 ¼” 3 ¼” 2 5/8” 2 3/16” 1 5/8” 1 ¼” 1 1/8” 7/8” 3/8”
33cm 22cm 16.5cm 13.2cm 11cm 8.25cm 6.6cm 5.5cm 4.1cm 3.3cm 2.75cm 2.2.cm 1cm
28” 71cm 14” 9 5/16” 7” 5 5/8” 4 5/8” 3 ½” 2 ¾” 2 5/16” 1 ¾” 1 3/8” 1 3/16” 7/8” 7/16”
35.5cm 23.7cm 17.75cm 14.2cm 11.8cm 8.9cm 7.1cm 5.9cm 4.4cm 3.55cm 3cm 2.2cm 1.1cm
30” 76cm 15” 10” 7 ½” 6” 5” 3 ¾” 3” 7.6cm 2 ½” 1 ¾” 1 ½” 1 ¼” 7/8” 7/16”
38cm 25.3cm 19cm 15.2cm 12.7cm 9.5cm 6.3cm 4.75cm 3.8cm 3.2cm 2.4cm 1.2cm
32” 81cm 16” 10 11/16” 13 5/16” 6 3/8” 5 5/16” 4” 3 3/16” 2 11/16” 2” 1 5/8” 1 5/16” 1” ½”
40.5cm 27cm 20.25cm 16.2cm 13.5cm 10.1cm 8.1cm 6.75cm 5.1cm 4cm 3.4cm 2.5cm 1.25cm
34” 86cm 17” 11 5/16” 8 ½” 6 ¾” 5 11/16” 4 ¼” 3 3/8” 2 13/16” 2 1/8” 1 ¾” 1 3/8” 1 1/16” ½”
43cm 28.7cm 21.5cm 17.2cm 14.3cm 10.75cm 8.6cm 7.2cm 5.4cm 4.3cm 12cm 2.7cm 1.3cm
36” 91cm 18” 12” 9” 7 3/16” 6” 4 ½” 3 9/16” 3” 7.6cm 2 ¼” 1 ¾” 1 ½” 1 1/8” 9/16”
45.5cm 30.3cm 22.75cm 18.2cm 15.2cm 11.4cm 9.1cm 5.7cm 4.6cm 3.8cm 2.8cm 1.4cm
38” 19” 12 5/8” 9 ½” 7 5/8” 6 5/16” 4 ¾” 3 ¾” 3 3/16” 2 3/8” 1 7/8” 1 9/16” 1 3/16” 9/16”
96.5cm 48.25cm 32.2cm 24.1cm 19.3cm 16cm 12cm 9.65cm 8cm 6cm 4.8cm 4 cm 3cm 1.5cm
40” 20” 13 5/16” 10” 8” 6 11/16” 5” 4” 3 5/16” 2 ½” 2” 5cm 1 11/16” 1 ¼” 5/8”
101.5cm 50.75cm 33.8cm 25.4cm 20.3cm 16.9cm 12.7cm 10.15cm 8.5cm 6.3cm 4.2cm 3.2cm 1.6cm
42” 21” 14” 10 ½” 8 3/8” 7” 5 ¼” 4 3/16” 3 ½” 2 5/8” 2 1/8” 1 ¾” 1 5/16” 5/8”
106.5cm 53.25cm 35.5cm 26.6cm 21.3cm 17.75cm 13.3cm 10.65cm 8.9cm 6.7cm 53.25cm 4.4cm 3.3cm 1.65cm
Apparel Pattern
Designing