Introduction

There are a number of fairly common techniques available that allow grass to be
incorporated into a pavement to provide 'the best of both worlds', ie, the
appearance of grass but the load bearing capability of a well-constructed
pavement or driveway. They can be utilised in those areas where the hard
permanence of a typical pavement might be undesirable, such as in conservation
areas, roadside verges, emergency services access, canal towpaths, farm tracks or
rural settings, and they are also used for erosion control in some situations,
although the specification and type of system(s) used can be completely different
to that outlined below.

Different proprietary systems provide varying ratios of hard-pavement to grass,

and the best system for any given project will need to take into account these
differences. Some systems can only be installed by specialist contractors, while
others can be installed by competent workmen or even diy-ers. It should also be
noted that special grasses ought to be selected for planting the various systems,
as most ordinary seed mixtures are unlikely to be sufficiently hard-wearing to
withstand being trafficked. A few suggested seed mixtures are given further down
the page.

he 5 techniques considered on this page are:-

o Hopsack Paving
o Spaced Paving
o Cellular Paving
o Reinforced Turf
o Mesh Protected Turf

All these techniques rely on a sub-base to give the paving its strength, although the types of
sub-base recommended will vary with type of system chosen, existing ground conditions,
and anticipated usage. A typical construction detail for each technique is given below.

Hopsack Paving
This is the simplest of the 4 techniques, and
utilises readily-available, plain rectangular
concrete paviors, laid to a pattern that leaves
significant 'holes' or 'pockets' that are filled with
soil and seeded.

This technique can be used for residential A Hopsack pattern created from standard 100x200mm
driveways, or in the garden. For path use in a block pavers, giving 50x50mm pockets for soil.
garden with reasonably firm and stable soils, the
sub-base can be omitted, but be prepared for the
bricks to move.

Any rectangular blocks can be used to create a hop-sack pattern resulting in varying sizes of
'pockets' in the finished pavement. The edges of a hopsack pavement sill need to be solid,
either against an existing sound structure, such as a wall, or with an edging unit or soldier
course laid on concrete, as described on the Block Paving Page.

For residential driveways, patios and paths, a

100mm sub-base is usually sufficient (see Sub-
base Page), but heavier loads, such as large
vans, may need 150mm thickness. For
trackways, car-parking areas etc., consult a
paving contractor or civil engineer for specific
advice.

Once the blocks have been laid, the pockets should be filled with a well-draining, friable soil,
or soil/sand loam, and compacted as for normal block paving. It's worth spending a few
quid, if necessary, to get a decent planting medium, as the grasses will have only this small
pocket of soil to survive upon for the next few years. The soil in the pockets can be seeded
immediately with the selected grass mixture, although the soil will settle over the ensuing
weeks and may need 'topping-up', or it can be left to settle for 4-6 weeks and topped-up
prior to seeding.

The relatively small proportion of grass

to each square metre of this type of
grass paving make it less reliable than
other techniques, and there is a
tendency for the grass to die off within a
couple of seasons, but it does have its
uses, and, if fed with a liquid fertiliser
and watered in dry weather, it can look
quite attractive in the right situation.
Typical Hopsack Paving construction detail
paced
Paving
This technique again
relies on commonly
available block paviors,
that are laid on a
prepared sub-base and
bedding layer, with
'spacers' between
adjacent blocks giving a
wide, but consistent,
joint, that is then filled
with the selected soil
prior to seeding.
Different manufacturers
have different
proprietary systems,
but they all utilise a
square or rectangular
'standard' block with
some form of spacer,
often plastic,
approximately 30-
45mm wide. The
number of spacers per
block is determined by
intended usage (more
spacers used on
trafficked areas) and
type of block. Full
instructions will be
supplied by the
spacer/block
manufacturers. Aquada Paving System by Marshalls

Again, this technique can be used for driveways, paths, patios, and, with a more substantial sub
trackways, car parks and other large-scale, low traffic-speed sites.
 The choice of block, and the width of the joints, determine the ratio o
paving, and this allows this ratio to be manipulated, by choosing large
blocks, to suit individual site requirements.

For example, using 240x160mm blocks with 35mm joints results in ap

grass by area, whereas using 160x160mm blocks, this ratio becomes
joint by area.
Typical plan layout of spaced
paving showing spacers being
used to create 30-45mm joint
between 240x160mm blocks

Again, soil and seed need to be carefully selected, before filling the joints, and the grass should
establish itself before allowing vehicular traffic to use the pavement.

Grass does seem to survive better in the joints of spaced paving than it does in the small 'pocket
paving, and, along with feeding and watering in dry spells, it may even need the occasional atten
mower.

Cellular Paving
See also Cellular Systems Page
This is the most widely used type of grass-paving, and is claimed to be structurally sounder and
than other forms. Basically, specially-shaped, interlocking 'cell' pavers are laid on a prepared be
over a sub-base, and the 'cells' filled with the chosen soil and seed. There are a good number of
systems available, in 3 formats; pre-cast concrete cells, plastic cells, and cast in-situ concrete ce

Different proprietary
systems have differing
bedding layer
requirements, and you
will need to check with
manufacturers whether
their system requires a
granular, a grit sand, or
a sand/soil bedding Sigma block fromBrett
layer.

Turfstone by Tobermore

enerally speaking, these pre-cast concrete units are laid using the same methods as
outlined on the block paving page.
This technique is suitable for all but the very heaviest applications. The scale of the project, and
its intended use, will determine the best system to be used. Some manufacturers are not
equipped to cope with orders of less than 300m², although it may be possible to arrange for a
local builders' merchant to obtain a smaller quantity. These systems are quite popular with local
authorities looking to provide hard-standing or emergency access to otherwise 'green areas',
such as pumping stations on residential estates, and access trackways for service vehicles, fire
engines, etc..

12 month old GrassGuard system Established GrassGuard system

Grasscrete® is a proprietary system that relies on placing disposable plastic 'pots' at equal
spaces over a prepared base and then pouring concrete to fill the spaces in between the
'pots', which act as temporary formers for the eventual pavement. Once the concrete has
hardened, the flimsy plastic pots can be removed, and a selected soil mix used to fill the
resulting voids. The soil can then be seeded.

Grasscrete® is a proprietary system that relies on

placing disposable plastic 'pots' at equal spaces over a
prepared base and then pouring concrete to fill the
spaces in between the 'pots', which act as temporary
formers for the eventual pavement. Once the concrete
has hardened, the flimsy plastic pots can be removed,
and a selected soil mix used to fill the resulting voids.
The soil can then be seeded.
 Grasscrete Paving

Grasscrete slab with temporary plastic formers

Some systems allow gravel, decorative aggregates or bark to be used to fill the cells in place of
the more usual grass, and some manufacturers will supply cells ready-turfed if required. Filled
with a gravel, these plastic cells can bring stability to an inclined access way, and help minimise
the inevitable drift of the gravel to the bottom of the slope. Plastic cell matrices (as they are
sometimes known) are considered in more detail on a separate page.

Grass-filled plastic cells Gravel-filled plastic cells

The type of system chosen dictates the grass:hard-
paving ratio, with some thin-walled plastic cells,
offering up to 94% grass surface, rendering the
structural elements virtually invisible, while
others, such as the pre-cast concrete units that are
available, make a feature of the cell shape, which
is usually rectangular or hexagonal.

All of these cellular systems have been specially

developed to ensure that the grass can and does
survive, so much so that they can sometimes
become overgrown if not tended regularly. Indeed,
some systems are so successful at nurturing a
natural overgrowth that they have been used on
SSSI and sensitive heritage projects.

Grass paving at Stirling Castle

recast Concrete block systems

The grass jointing is essential to the structural

integrity of such systems. Where grass growth is
absent or poor, the individual blocks have a
lowered resistance to differential movement when
trafficked. In regularly trafficked situations, this
can result in sub-base pumping via the gaps
between the individual units. Firm edge restraint is
essential as any rooting through to the sub-base
will be tenuous at best and the units will spread
under load.

Castellated or studded systems can be difficult for

pedestrians as the soil fill within the units settles GC Group's Grassblock

under vibration or is washed from the surface,

leaving a protruding 'stud' which presents a
significant trip hazard.
 Plastic systems
(HDPE and Polypropylene)

Only really suitable for low-speed

occasional use. The relatively thin
depth of these systems and their
inherent flexibility can result in
'trampolining', where the units
'bounce' when trafficked. This can turn
the surface into a quagmire in
regularly trafficked areas, such as car-
parks. The trade-off for a higher ratio
of grass cover is a reduction in
GC Group's Grassroad pavers, before and after
tolerance to wear and loading. Should
not be used on gradients where slip
resistance is essential.

In-situ castings

Each job can be individually designed according to traditional slab design methods to ensure
competence and adequate drainage control. No differential settlement or lateral spread, so
no need for edge restraint. The only system suitable for vehicular loads of 40 tonnes.

Other considerations

Gravel fill is acceptable in low-traffic situations,

but hoggin should never be used as it will 'set' and
kill off any grass.

Where reinforced grass paving is used for Fire Path

access, special note should be given to the sub-
base, which can quickly become saturated.
Erosion Control by GC Group

Reinforced Turf
This is a comparatively new development and, as far as I can ascertain, there have been only
a few case studies of this type of technique, but it does have its admirers, and there will
most probably be a small, but steady, market for it. The basic principal is that a specially
selected grass is grown on a geo-membrane, which is then laid over a prepared bedding
layer and sub-base. The sub-base provides the strength and stability, while the geo-
membrane holds the grass layer together.
Manufacturers claim that this type of system can be
used for most normal, low traffic-speed applications,
although whether it will ever be developed and
promoted to the sports industry or the general public
remains to be seen. This system ensures 100% grass
coverage, and the usual maintenance, such as feeding
and mowing, will need to be undertaken on a regular
basis. The life-time of this system is an unknown
quantity at the time of writing, but should be good for
10 years.

There are also reinforced turfs developed specifically for

erosion control, rather than trafficking, and are beyond
the remit of this site. However, Some of the
manufacturers listed on the links page also supply these
'erosion control mats', and their technical departments Tensar Mat® by Tensar International
will be more than happy to help you with your queries.

Mesh Protected Turf

This system is becoming quite popular with those responsible for overspill car-parking and
pedestrian usage at occasional events, with groundsmen looking after areas of lawn, and
with caravan/leisure parks, where the natural appearance of grass with the load-carrying
ability of a pavement, all at a minimal cost and with little or no construction work required,
is very appealing.

The basic premise is that a tough polypropylene or HDPE

mesh is laid over an area of turf or grass, and this allows
foot-traffic, low-speed cars and vans to use the area without
completely ruining the grass. The mesh may need to be
anchored to the ground at regular intervals by means of
ground pegs, to prevent slippage and to help disperse the
loads. The mesh works to protect the grass roots from being
damage, to minimise 'pumping' of wet ground, and to avoid
rutting of soft spots.

The soil type, the type of grass/turf cover and the level of
protection required will determine the best mesh to choose
for each application, and the better manufacturers have
Turf Protection Mesh dedicated technical teams to help in identifying the best
by Tenax Ltd.
solution.
Grasscrete, a Bomanite Pervious Concrete System, is a cast-in-place, monolithic, pervious concrete
pavement that is continuously reinforced to provide superior structural integrity.

Bomanite Grasscrete is the green alternative to standard concrete surfaces providing a variety of
landscape solutions while maintaining a sustainable green product design used for emergency access
lanes, delivery access routes, overflow parking areas, and for intermittent drainage channels that help
prevent erosion. Grasscrete has been a Bomanite System for over 20 years with installations
throughout North America in all climate types. Achieved through the use of two differing techniques
and three differing tools known as “formers”, Grasscrete is void structured concrete – a pervious
pavement system that can be cast using proven mix designs with no potential for freeze-thaw or
clogging issues. Grasscrete can be used as an exposed utilitarian product for functional applications or
as a concealed system with vegetation such as grass or native ground cover installed over the
concrete. This system allows you to mitigate drainage issues while maintaining strong structural
integrity that allows for some of the heaviest vehicles to operate unencumbered.

The first application technique incorporates a reusable tool that creates the voids by having concrete
placed in and around the tool formers prior to being pulled from the concrete slab. The second
technique is using a single-use former that is placed on the sub grade with the concrete placed over
the formers and the voids opened after the concrete hardens. The single-use formers are available in
an ABS plastic former and the newly developed bio-degradable former, know as the Molded Pulp
Former, that is made with post consumer recycled components.

Grasscrete offers the ability to provide year-round access for a variety of applications requiring
structural paving surfaces without compromising the aesthetics of the exterior landscaping. Grasscrete
is a very sustainable product that can employ a large recycled material content both in the form of
aggregate and binder such as fly ash or slag—its lifespan is indefinite and can be recycled itself to
form the aggregates for future Grasscrete applications; providing Specifiers with a truly sustainable,
eco-friendly system to accommodate a variety of needs.

GREEN BENEFITS

 The benefit to Grasscrete for businesses and developers is that it drains at about the same
rate as would an ordinary lawn in the same location. The presence of concrete has little effect
on the drainage; the soil and the slope are the controlling factors which makes it beneficial for
erosion control as well.
 Grasscrete is installed over a sub-base of gravel at a depth determined by the load bearing
capacity required for the project. On site re-cycled fill materials are used in the sub-bases
together with the use of topsoil in paving and retaining wall systems: as this is often available
surplus from the excavation work it helps to avoid the unnecessary off-site disposal of waste
materials.
 Grasscrete can also be installed over native soils saving money on excavation and gravel. The
subsurface all depends on the needs and the water runoff requirements, from thick beds of
stone to water piping systems. Grasscrete, as with many other "green" products generally
costs 30% higher than traditional concrete pavement. At times however, using Grasscrete can
eliminate or minimize the need for storm water collection systems which may in turn lead to
substantial savings.
 Contrary to convention, the structural advantages that Grasscrete offers over pre-cast can
make significant savings in both the "construction" and "lifetime" costs of a project. Sub-base
depths are reduced and curb edge restraints can often be eliminated. The construction process
is much faster than for precast and the forms can be delivered by the truckload to cover 7200
sq m which is the equivalent to fifty truckloads of pre-cast. This is a serious statistic that saves
both money and polluted transportation waste.
 SUDS, better known as "Sustainable Urban Drainage" is becoming an increasingly used term
with planners and developers seeking to mitigate the implications of handling surface water
run-off on the local storm water network. Pre-formed tank water management often involves
the use of self-draining paving layers together with the installation of pre-formed sub-ground
 retention tanks, to store surface water for a controlled release into the drainage network.
Grasscrete provides a more uniform percolation process that creates a more natural balance
thereby reducing the risk of shrinkage in clay soils due to the urbanized modification of water
tables.
 Some other benefits of the Bomanite Grasscrete System, include the improved reflectance of
the crete as compared to blacktop, reducing the heat island effect. Grasscrete handles runoff
and storm drainage via river training, slope protection and channels. It is also a sound product
for retaining pond bottoms thanks to its pervious nature and helps provide a food source and
cover for pond inhabitants.

For lawned areas, the mesh is simply rolled out over the close-cropped turf, with adjacent
rolls overlapping by 150-300mm, and anchored with ground pegs. Any dips, hollows, soft-
spots etc, should be levelled out with grit sand or top soil before placing the mesh. Once
laid, they can be left in-situ for the season, or even permanently, as most commercial
mowers will ride over the embedded mesh without hindrance. For areas with longer grass,
the meshes are placed after a mowing, and the grass is allowed to grow up and through the
mesh, hiding it from view, yet providing sufficient stability to permit trafficking.
Sedge image by Photo by Nature Snooper /flickr.com

Overview
Sedges compose over 1,000 species of the family Cyperaceae. They can be distinguished from grasses by their
triangular-shaped stems. Sedges are found worldwide in wet areas, mostly in temperate and cold regions. Sedges
make an appealing ground cover in wet, poorly drained areas, and are enjoying a surge in popularity as a lawn cover
or landscape plant in home gardens. Use sedge for erosion control and soil stabilization in wet areas around ponds,
in marshes and wetlands and in clumps as an ornamental plant.

Exeter Engineering www.exeter-engineering.com

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Step 1
Choose a site for your sedge. A damp location with full sun is best, but sedge will tolerate partial shade.

Step 2
Remove old lawn coverings and weeds. Kill existing vegetation in the area by repeated tilling, sodcutting, covering
it with black plastic, or apply herbicide. Allow 2 or 3 weeks to be sure all vegetation in the planting site has died and
newly sprouting weeds are eliminated.

Step 3
Add compost to loosen heavy soil. Fertilizer is not required unless the soil is extremely poor.

Step 4
Rake the site to smooth out the area and break up the soil.

Step 5
Sow sedge seeds over the area and press them lightly into the soil. Water the area heavily, until the soil is muddy.

Step 6
Mulch the area with sterile straw and maintain the moisture until the seeds sprout, approximately 1 to 2 weeks. Seed
germination is not reliable and many gardeners prefer planting plugs or wild transplants.

Step 7
Plant sedge plugs approximately 6 to 8 inches apart. Keep the soil wet until the plants are established.

Step 8
Water sedge as needed to keep them moist. Sedge prefers wet roots, but can survive periods of drought.

Step 9
Remove weeds daily. Sedges have triangular shaped stems; remove grasses with rounded leaves and broad leaf
weeds that may sprout. Pull weeds by hand to avoid disturbing the roots of your newly planted sedges.
Step 10
Trim the sedge monthly to a height of about 1 foot with a string trimmer during the growing season of the first year.
Trimming the sedge encourages the roots to spread. Leave the sedge untrimmed at the end of the summer to protect
the plants over the winter.

Step 11
Control sedges in the home landscape by placing a plastic root barrier to contain them. Sedges spread rapidly and
can be invasive. Dig a trench around the desired containment area, at least a foot away from the roots. Place a plastic
root barrier in the trench and refill the trench. The barrier will keep the sedge in the desired area.

Read more: How to Grow Sedge | Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/70242-grow-

sedge.html#ixzz2E6OKKMf0