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>> MISSES’/
W O M E N ’ S PA N T S
02
FABRIC &
SIZE CHART
04
CUTTING
LAYOUTS
06
PATTERN
MARKINGS
07
GLOSSARY
08
SEWING
INSTRUCTIONS
SKIL L L EVE L : E A SY
M6901 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS
M6901CC
Find the Perfect Fit!
THINGS YOU NEED:
>> One 9” Zipper and One Hook & Eye Closure.
Optional: One 9” Invisible Zipper.
SUGGESTED FABRICS:
>> Gabardine, Wool Blends, Cotton Blends, Corduroy.
SIZE CHARTS
YARDAGE CHARTS
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
PANTS
45"*** 23/8 23/8 23/8 21/2 21/2 21/2 21/2 25/8 23/4 yds.
60"*** 15/8 15/8 13/4 17/8 21/8 21/8 21/8 23/8 21/2 yds.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING
18", 20" 1 1 11/8 11/8 11/4 11/4 13/8 13/8 11/2 yds.
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
MEASUREMENT AT HIPLINE
PANTS 37 38 391/2 411/2 431/2 46 48 50 52 in.
WIDTH, EACH LEG
PANTS 131/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 in.
SIDE LENGTH FROM WAIST
PANTS 40 40 40 40 40 41 41 41 41 in.
BODY MEASUREMENTS
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
BUST 311/2 321/2 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 in.
WAIST 24 25 261/2 28 30 33 35 37 39 in.
HIP 331/2 341/2 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 in.
BACK WAIST LENGTH 153/4 16 161/4 161/2 163/4 171/8 171/4 173/8 171/2 in.
Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step!
PIECES (5)
PANTS 5 PATTERN PIECES
1 FRONT 5 PIEZAS DE PATRON
2 POCKET
3 SIDE FRONT
1 2
4 BACK 4
5
5 WAISTBAND
>> Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Pin.
(Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.)
>> Cut accurately, cutting notches outward.
>> Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and
Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be
thread traced.
NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided.
>> Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type.
>> Fold fabric with right sides together, matching SELVAGES.
>> Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears.
MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 4
M 6 9 0 1 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S
PANTS
USE PIECES: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
45” (115 CM) 60” (150 CM)
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
ALL SIZES SIZES 16-18W-20W-22W-24W
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
3
4
4
5 SELVAGE
1
3 2
2
2 3 5
SELVAGE
FOLD
1 4
60" */**
6901 PANTS
FOLD SELVAGE Size 24W
Plot 1015
SELVAGES
3
1
2
5 FOLD
60" */**
6901 PANTS
Size 14
Plot 1021
GRAIN LINES
to place on
SYMBOLS
straight grain of
for matching
fabric parallel to
seams and
selvage or fold
construction
details
FOLD LINE
to place on
fold of fabric
LENGTHEN &
SHORTEN LINES
two parallel lines
where you make the
pattern piece longer
or shorter NOTCHES
single or double
triangular
markings used
for matching
pieces together
TO SHORTEN
to crease along
adjustment line; make
a fold half the amound
needed; tape in place
SEAM
ALLOWANCE
the measurement
used to turn up
your hem
TO LENGTHEN
to slash between
adjustment lines;
spread amount as
needed, keeping MEASUREMENTS
edges parallel; indicates Bustline,
tape over paper Waistline, Hip or Biceps;
refers to circumference of
finishined garment
The following terms appear in BOLD TYPE throughout your sewing instructions!
SEAM ALLOWANCES:
>> Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise
indicated.
>> Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching
notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams.
>> Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise
stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
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FIRST, BUY THE RIGHT SIZE. Snugly measure the fullest part of your hip above the crotch,
generally 7”-9” (18cm-23cm) from your waist. (If your thighs are fuller, you can let out both the
inseams and side seams). If you are between sizes, buy the smaller size unless you have a flat
derriere; then use the next larger size so that you can remove width across the back to eliminate
bagginess. If someone is very flat, it is more efficient to use two sizes larger so that after tucking
out the back width that you don’t need, your tissue should still fit your hips.
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A clue to a flat derriere: If you trimmed the tissue to the size based on your hip measurement and the
side seam is too far forward, you are flat in the back. Make a vertical tuck in the back to bring the side
seam to the middle of your body. If needed, then add tissue to the side front and back for hip width.
Next time, trim tissue to a size or two larger. It saves time.
Tissue-Fit the Pattern
To make altering easier, we have placed alteration lines on the pattern tissue for the most common
adjustments. Tuck or cut and spread at these lines until the pattern fits you. If you are unfamiliar with
altering how-to’s, see our book Pants for Real People or bring our class to your home with our DVDs.
MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 8
Instructions given are for pants with fly front and side front pockets. You have one option to eliminate
the fly and use a center back invisible zipper. You also have the option with either pant to eliminate the
side front pockets.
Happy Sewing!
Pati Palmer & Associates
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BUILT-IN FIT
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•Larger “in-case” seam allowances “in-case” you need them. And, alteration tucking or spreading lines printed
on the tissue.
•1” (2.5cm) side seams for fuller waist, hips and thighs
•In case gravity has taken hold, we’ve given you (2.5 cm)
Using a ruler and pen, mark the stitching lines 1” (2.5cm) from the cut line for
Mark 1” (2.5 cm)
the waist, side seams and inseams. seamline
Marcar la línea de
costura de 2.5cm.
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With tissue RIGHT SIDE UP, tape the following INSIDE the stitching
line to prevent the tissue from tearing when trying on. (When you
press tissue next time, press from the WRONG side so you won’t
melt the tape. Make this a habit!.)
Tape the entire FRONT and BACK crotch inside the stitching line.
Go under the lowest back crotch stitching line if you are over 30 as
your derriere has probably gotten lower in the back.
Use small pieces of tape around curves, lapping them. Use 1/2” (1.3cm) Scotch™ Magic™Tape (green box).
Clip the curves to the stitching line but NOT through the tape.
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3
Simple pants are easier to fit. Eliminate the pocket and fly front. To eliminate the pocket,
lap the front and side front, matching circles, then pin them together so you will have a 1
complete front. NOTE: Use these pattern pieces, pinned together, when cutting the fabric
to make pants without pockets.
NOTE: Use these pattern pieces when cutting the fabric to make pants Center front
LA FRENTE CENTRAL
without pockets and fly front and apply a center back invisible zipper.
Instructions for invisible zipper application are included.
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Match the hem edges of the front and back tissue, then line up cut edges bottom to top.
Anchor to your cardboard cutting board. Then pin the front and back tissue pieces, wrong
sides together, with pins in the seam line, pointing down, and parallel to the cut edges.
Don’t place any pins above the waist or crotch stitching line or you will get poked! Pin darts
on the outside as well.
FIT TIP: If your left side is fuller than your right, you will need to pin the pattern, right sides
together, so you can fit your left side.
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PRO TIP: The first pin at the top of the inseam goes into the tissue on the crotch SIDE
SEAM
stitching line and points down. The first pin at the top of the side seams goes in at CROTCH
Costura
del Costado
SEAM
the waist stitching line and points down! costura
de la
entrepierna
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We are addressing the common pants alterations. For more, see our book Pants for Real People. The
section called “crotch oddities” is very helpful!
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FIT TIP: Pin 1” (2.5cm) wide elastic around your waist. Adjust elastic so the BOTTOM
of the elastic is where you want the bottom of the waistband to land. With legs
apart, pull up the tissue, centering it on your body so the side seam is perpendicular
to the floor. You can either put the tissue under the elastic or pin it to the outside of
the elastic. Match the bottom of the elastic to the waist stitching line. Start with the
BACK. Pin the back to the elastic first to hold the tissue in place.
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QUICK TIP: Sew Velcro® to the ends of the elastic so you can quickly fasten it around your waist.
WAIST WIDTH
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If you can’t get center front and center back of the tissue to meet your center front
and center back, you can eliminate your front darts. Most people don’t need them.
You can always add small front darts later in fabric if needed after all. Back darts can
be made narrower or eliminated if not needed because you are very flat in back. If
you have a pucker at the bottom of the dart, they are too deep or not needed at all.
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Another way to get more waist room when you have a FULL TUMMY is to straighten the
center front. Cut on the center front to the circle from the outer edge and pivot the fly
extension out about 1/2” (1.3cm). Fill in with tissue and tape in place. You have just added
1” (2.5cm) across your tummy and no one will be the wiser.
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HIP WIDTH
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Be neat! Slip no more than 1/2” (1.3cm) of tissue under pattern edge and tape on TOP. Get used to having tape
on the RIGHT SIDE of the tissue and pressing on the WRONG SIDE. Develop this as a habit so you don’t have
tape shriveling up under the heat of the iron.
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In order to make sure you have the same amount of tissue added to the front and
back, pin the original cut lines of the front and back, wrong sides together, so
seams are sticking out. Then trim the tissue you added to the side front and back
seams so the amounts added are even.
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If the pants are loose, pin deeper side seams. NOTE: After doing all
of your fitting, you will then do the final fine tuning of the side seams.
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Altering one can affect the other. Keep this in mind CROTCH
LENGTH
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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 3
If the crotch is too long: Tuck on the lengthen or shorten lines
evenly on front and back pieces until crotch seam touches your Juntar las lineas
y hacer
un pliegue
body. Draw a line parallel to and above the line printed on the Bring Lines
Together
pattern. Bring the lines together and crease. Pin in place then tape.
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Lineas Horizontales
Cut on the lengthen or shorten alteration line on the pattern. Pin one
alineadas con
los bordes cortados.
Vertical lines
NOTE: Do not tape until everything is flat and lined up perfectly! align with cut
edges
Lineas Verticales
alineadas con
los bordes cortados.
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BAGGY BACK
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If pants droop in the lower back near the inseam, pull the pants
up at the center back until the back hangs straight. You will trim
the excess, leaving a 1” (2.5cm) seam allowance. If you can’t get
the back high enough, you may need to let out the back inseam or
lower the back crotch seam to gain length.
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If you have pulls from the crotch and the grainline is pulling toward
the inseam, you need to let out the inseam. If the pulls are on the
front inseam, let out the front. If they are on the back, let out the
back inseam. Drop the tissue and re-pin. You will need to add Pattern
Paper if you need more than an inch.
GRAINLINE
Droit Fil
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PRO TIP: If you add a lot to one inseam and not the other, the length can change.
So always start pinning the legs at the hem. It is the “control.” If one piece is longer
at the top, just trim off the extra length to match the other leg.
TRIM
Recortar
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knee area, add to the front and back as shown. This also helps when
the pants feel tight on your front thighs when walking.
New
Stitching Line
Nueva linea
de pespunte
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FULL CALVES
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If your back calves stick out further than your derriere, let out the back leg only from just
above the knee to the hem on both sides until the tissue falls smoothly over your calf.
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If you are really flat, and you still have excess width across the back just above your
crotch curve, straighten the back crotch seam to remove the excess width. (Slanted
seams are for small waists with full hips. If you are flat, a straight seam matches your body
better.)
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Then take off tissue and mark where the side seam pins are.
Unpin tissue and draw your stitching lines for sides, inseams, and
waist seams. Leave 1” (2.5cm) seam allowance from waist, sides,
and inseam stitching lines. Trim crotch seam to 5/8” (1.5cm) if
you’ve used the lower back crotch stitching lines.
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LENGTH
With shoes on, check the length of the pants. Lengthen or shorten using the lines on the tissue. It is best to
make the pants a little longer than your desired finished length in case you decide to shorten the crotch in fab-
ric, otherwise you will have high waters.
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WAISTBAND
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Trim around the largest waistband. Wrap the waistband tissue around your waist. Trim ends
leaving 2”-3” (5-7.5cm) extra on each end for now.
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Zipper:
We told you to buy a 9”(23cm) zipper because we prefer a zipper that is longer than you need. The
slider won’t get in your way and cause crooked TOPSTITCHing.
Our fly front puts the zipper 5/8”(1.5cm) from the overlap edge so you will never see the zipper. Use
any color you want!!
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Fit Tip: If you are short in the front crotch, you can
move the circle higher.
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Stitch next to the tape. When you get to the curve, step on the accelerator and go! It’s easier to make a
nice curve when you stitch fast. Remove tape.
Pro Tip: Put a pin just below metal stop at bottom of zipper so you will know to sew below the pin and
not break a needle.
Pockets:
NOTE: Skip Steps 9-17 if eliminating the pocket.
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PRO TIP: Turn the pocket to inside and press. Roll the
seam 1/8” (3mm) to inside when pressing so the pocket
won’t show. Pressing on a ham allows you to pin the
pocket to the ham, anchoring it as you press.
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TIME TO FIT-AS-YOU-SEW
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You can fit knits and stretch wovens tightly as they will give.
HIGH HIP
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If one side of your body is fuller than the other, your hip
is probably higher on that side as well. Generally, we
JALAR HACIA ARRIBA
pull up the pants on the lower flatter side. You may need
to deepen the seam on the flatter side as well.
PRENDER CON
ALFILERES MÁS
PROFUNDAMENTE
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CROTCH FULLNESS
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TIGHT THIGHS
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If the crotch is a little long, pull the pants up evenly all New Waistline
the way around. Nueva Línea de cintura
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If the crotch feels short, pull the pants down evenly all
New Waistline
the way around. Mark the new waist seam at the bottom Nueva Línea de cintura
of the elastic.
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DARTS
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New
If darts pucker in front, make them narrower. Front darts Nuevo
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Pull Up
If there is a puddle of fabric below darts or the dart area JALAR HACIA ARRIBA
if you’ve left them out, pull pants up over dart areas only.
If puddle is gone, mark new stitching line at bottom of
elastic. I call this “tweaking” your fit.
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Este Este no
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REMAINING SEAMS
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FIT TIP: Does the crotch seam look like this? Sew straight
across. Stitch the lower crotch again and trim to 1/4”
(6mm).
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Place interfacing
next to the stitching line on WRONG SIDE of waistband. Stitch interfacing to the seam allowance. Fold
the waistband over the interfacing tightly and press.
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Stitch from the right side in the well of the seam to hold the waistband in place. This is less bulky than
turning under the seam allowance.
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WAISTBAND
Prepare WAISTBAND (5) following PANTS WITH FLY FRONT: WAISTBAND instructions. See page 5,
step 24.
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Fold waistband in half, right sides together, with seams turned up. Don’t sew through the monofilament
nylon interfacing because it will be too bulky. Trim the interfacing just inside the stitching line. Stitch
the ends, backstitching at the beginning and the end of the seam. After stitching, trim the seam to 1/4”
(6mm) and cut corners diagonally.
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50 copy
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Stitch from the right side in the well of the seam to hold the waistband in place. This is less bulky than
turning under the seam allowance.
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ADDITIONAL OPTION:
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YOUR look!
Post your pattern and tag us at
@McCALLPATTERNCOMPANY and use #MCCALLSPATTERNS
for a chance to be featured on our social media!
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