Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Charles L. Bretschneider
Vice President, Eastern Operations
Nat ional Engineering Science COlnpany
McLean, Virginia
INTRODUCTION
183
184 COASTAL ENGINEERING
(2)
N - N p (H) = 1 o r f o r P (H) = N - 1 _ N
N - N + 1
Now a m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m wave h e i g h t H can be d e f i n e d
accordingly; max
H
max
Hj. yflTW (6)
T h e above e q u a t i o n also f o l l o w s f r o m the w o r k by L o n g u e t - H i g g i n s (1952)
f o r l a r g e v a l u e s of N . 6 66 v /
185
WAVE F O R C E
T = T = -1- y T. '"'^
N = t/T '^^^
s
where t i s the l e n g t h of r e c o r d i n seconds and T^ i s the sig'^^''^'''^^'^*
wave p e r i o d i n seconds. I n g e n e r a l t i s l i m i t e d by the d u r a t i o ' ^ "^
s t o r m f o r steady state c o n d i t i o n , when H and T r e m a i n r^^^ ^
constant. ^
THE W E I B U L L DISTRIBUTION
P (H) = 1 - e"""
w h e r e A and m a r e c o n s t a n t s . F r o m E q . (9) the p r o b a b i l i t y <i^'^^^''-y
d i s t r i b u t i o n becomes
/ H\ ™
Q
Qi
(-
<
O
z
a
HAN
AN
1-
I
cr
UJ Hi
s h-
1- < UJ
li_ cr
O <s>
(- CC
2 o
UJ
O o
CC 1-
til
Q. _ i
<
RE EQ
<
^ ^ ^ 6 8 10 20 30 40 60 80 lOO
H (ft.) AND fp (lbs.)
1 a
in in 1 - p (h) ~ inA + m in -j^— (11)
S p e c i a l g r a p h p a p e r c a n be c o n s t r u c t e d f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n
f u n c t i o n so t h a t one can p l o t d i r e c t l y H v s . P (H) and e l i m i n a t e the need
f o r t a k i n g the c o r r e s p o n d i n g l o g a r i t h m s . F i g u r e 1 is a g r a p h f o r the
W e i b u l l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n data. The data i n F i g u r e 1 a r e f o r w a v e
h e i g h t s and d r a g f o r c e s f r o m a r e c o r d by W i e g e l (1954). I f t h e s e data
f o l l o w e d the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n , t h e n the slope of the l i n e f o r w a v e
h e i g h t w o u l d be m = 2 and d r a g f o r c e w o u l d be m = 1. T h e r e a s o n t h a t
the slopes m d e v i a t e c o n s i d e r a b l y f r o m t h e o r y i n F i g u r e 1 i s the f a c t
t h a t m a n y o f the s m a l l e r waves w e r e not e n t e r e d i n the t a b u l a t i o n . H o w -
e v e r , the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n a p p e a r s to be a good a p p r o x i m a t i o n f o r a
r e c o r d w h i c h i s t r i m m e d at the l o w end.
T h e m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m vave f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n
becomes
H = H "^Z 4 - i n N (12)
max r ^ A ^ '
LINEAR THEORY
where
and
where
and the h o r i z o n t a l p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i o n by
• 2 Tr^ H c o s h k (d + z) . ,, , , ^^
u(t) = — 2 3inh k d -n(kx-crt) (17)
where
k = 2 tr / L = wave n u m b e r
or =2 TT/T = wave f r e q u e n c y
d = w a t e r depth
z = d i s t a n c e m e a s u r e d n e g a t i v e d o w n w a r d f r o m the u n d i s t u r b e d
mean water surface
Ö = ( k x - o-t)
fj^ = at 0 =0 (18)
f. = H at 0 = ir /2 (19)
WAVE F O R C E 189
1 2 D yT smh k d y
and 2
K = 4- p C c o s h k ( d ^ z) 0 ^ (21)
2 4 m rj,^ smh k d
K n o w i n g the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t s and a s s u m i n g
f o r the t i m e b e i n g t h a t C _ , C , D , T and d a r e constant, * one c a n
^ D' m
o b t a i n the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r f^^ and f^ r e s p e c t i v e l y as f o l l o w s :
and
p ( f . ) d f. = p (H) d H (23)
F r o m Eqs. (18) and (19), r e s p e c t i v e l y , one obtains by d i f f e r e n t i a -
tion
d f = 2 H dH (24)
and
d f. = dH (25)
^1 "r
and
2 f. \ K, H
p ( f . ) d f. = ^ e ^ ^ ' d f. (27)
* A s s u m i n g T is c o n s t a n t i n f e r s t h a t t h e r e i s no c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n
H and T , and T i s the same at a l l l e v e l s of H i n the j o i n t p r o b a b i l i t y
d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n H and T . I f C _ and C a r e not c o n s t a n t , t h e n
D m
a b e t t e r f o r m of the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n w o u l d be p (f^^/C-j^) and
p ( f . / C ) where and C a r e f u n c t i o n s of the wave p a r a m e t e r s and
^ 1 m' D m
pile size.
190 COASTAL ENGINEERING
Now l e t
f- = f = K, = K, H 2 (28)
D Da 1 1 r
and
f. 2 = kJ- = H 2 (29)
ir 2 2 r
thus
f. ^2
2 f. i-r ,
p ( f . ) d f. = ^ e V^ir / d f. (31)
ir
The c u m u l a t i v e d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r E q s . (30) and (31) a r e g i v e n r e s p e c t i v e l y
by
^D
P {i^) = 1 - e ^Da (32)
and
If f j _ | i s p r o p o r t i o n a l to and to H , a c c o r d i n g to l i n e a r
t h e o r y , t h e n the d i s t r i b u t i o n of ( f „ / f ^ )^ ^ ^ , ( f . / f . ) and ( H / H ) s h o u l d
D Da 1 ir r
c o i n c i d e ; i . e. , a l l t h r e e r e l a t i o n s f o l l o w the n o n d i m e n s i o n a l f o r m o f the
Rayleigh distribution.
F r o m the above equation one obtains the f o l l o w i n g f o r the m o s t
p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m d r a g and m a x i m u m i n e r t i a l f o r c e s , r e s p e c t i v e l y :
f^, ^ = i n N (34)
D(max) Da
and
f., , = f. -JUnTSl (35)
x(max) ir v
WAVE F O R C E 191
WEIBULL DISTRIBUTION
and
i-l
i ( m a x )s = f-i r I.\ -TT—
* i n N ^(39)'
P R O B A B I L I T Y D I S T R I B U T I O N OF P E A K FORCES
( C O M B I N E D D R A G A N D I N E R T I A L FORCES)
K
p = arc sin ^ H ^"^'^
192 COASTAL ENGINEERING
WAVE FORCE 193
for
T < < ~
0 < P < -T
A s i m i l a r e q u a t i o n can be d e r i v e d f o r the m a x i m u m n e g a t i v e f o r c e .
2 2
U s i n g the i d e n t i t y cos 6 -h s i n 9 = 1 , one obtains the e x p r e s s i o n
f o r m a x i m u m f o r c e as f o l l o w s :
2 1
1
for
0 < P < 4
U s i n g E q s . (18) and (19), E q . (42) b e c o m e s
2"
f.
f 1 + for 0 < 1 =
D
otherwise (43)
for > 2
D
I n F i g u r e 2 the c u r v e f o r A i r y t h e o r y , r e p r o d u c e d f r o m R e i d and
B r e t s c h n e i d e r (1953), i s based on
where
194 COASTAL ENGINEERING
Dm
(45)
dz
1 + Z 2
ma Da
'46)
otherwise
f = f. for
ma ir f
Da
T h e m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m (peak) wave f o r c e b e c o m e s
2"
1 / "^i(max) \ for 0 Z ^ÜEiiïL § 2
1 +
•^m ( m a x ) ^D(max)
* \^D(max)/ D(max)
(47)
-otherwise
i(max)
f , , = f., , for > 2
m(max) i(max) ±
D(max)
2
f C
for
r - ^ ~
1/2 PD u D
m D_d < 2
< 2 C 2
D u
(48)
otherwise
C ir DÜ
m 2 for
1/2 P Du
C
JL m DÜ > 2
2 CD u
WAVE FORCE 19
T h e second f o r m of E q . (48) is a l s o t h a t of a s t r a i g h t l i n e b u t
passes t h r o u g h the o r i g i n . T h i s does not m e a n t h a t Cj^ i s z e r o , b u t
t h a t the d r a g f o r c e i s z e r o and Cj^ v a n i s h e s because a l l the f o r c e i s
i n e r t i a l f o r c e . T h i s w o u l d be o b s e r v e d on the wave r e c o r d w h e n the
m a x i m u m f o r c e o c c u r s at a phase p o s i t i o n i r / 2 ahead of the wave c r e s t .
I n u s i n g E q . (48) one should a l w a y s c h e c k to see w h i c h of the t w o f o r m s
a p p l i c a b l e . E x c e p t f o r l a r g e p i l e s and r e l a t i v e l y l o w w a v e h e i g h t s , the
f i r s t f o r m of E q . (48) w i l l g e n e r a l l y a p p l y .
P R O B A B I L I T Y D I S T R I B U T I O N O F P E A K FORCES
T h e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of peak f o r c e s ( c o m b i n e d d r a g and
i n e r t i a l ) c a n be o b t a i n e d i n a s i m p l e m a n n e r as t h a t used f o r d r a g and
i n e r t i a l f o r c e s ; i . e. :
P (f ) d f p (H) d H (49)
1 / \A
^Da for 0 <
1 - e
Da
f
P (f ) = P (f, for m
E q (50) is s i m i l a r to t h a t o b t a i n e d by B o r g m a n (1964), i n a s l i g h t l y
different manner. ^ '
WEIBULL DISTRIBUTION
' ^ ^ ^ p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n o f m a x i m u m f o r c e s f o r the W e i b u l l
d i s t r i b u t i o n should be d e t e r m i n e d by use o f e m p i r i c a l data. I f t h e r e
e x i s t s a change f r o m p u r e i n e r t i a l f o r c e to p r e d o m i n a n t l y d r a g f o r c e f o r
a p a r t i c u l a r r e c o r d , then one s h o u l d o b s e r v e t h i s f a c t by a change i n the
slope of the data on the W e i b u l l p l o t .
I n the p r e v i o u s d e v e l o p m e n t on p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s of wave
f o r c e s , I t IS a s s u m e d t h a t C ^ and C ^ w e r e c o n s t a n t s . Previous
a n a l y s i s b y W i e g e l , et. a L (1957) shows a v a s t s c a t t e r of the v a l u e s of
C and C .
D m
I n o r d e r to c o r r e l a t e e m p i r i c a l data on the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n
of d r a g f o r c e s (and i n e r t i a l f o r c e s ) w i t h the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of w a
ve
h e i g h t s . I t w i l l be c o n v e n i e n t to i n t r o d u c e the t e r m s " c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t " C ^ ^ and " c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t " C _ w h i c h a r e
d e t e r m i n e d r e s p e c t i v e l y f r o m the f o l l o w i n g : mr
r = '^Da _ -^Da
' ^ pDu_2 = ^ T H D - (51)
r
and
4 f. f.
C i2r . i r 2~
mr ~ ^^É)
17 P D u ^ ^2 °
whe
^Da a v e r a g e of m a x i m u m d r a g f o r c e s ;
u^ i s r o o t m e a n square a v e r a g e of p a r t i c l e v e l o c i t y
( w h e r e f ^ i s m a x , 9 = 0);
197
WAVE F O R C E
r • J- r • • 1 f o r c e s ; and
1. IS r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e of m a x i m u m m
is i neerrtti a i '•
ir
is r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e of p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i e ' ^
/T- r - „ = „ ; - , i, , .4-; on w h e r e
( w h e r e f. i s m a x , 0 > w / Z , o r the phase p o s i t s "
the s u r f a c e p r o f i l e i n t e r s e c t s m e a n w a t e r e l e v a t i o i ^ ' '
f = ^ V f (^^'
Da N Di
where f^^^ i s the i n d i v i d u a l p e a k d r a g f o r c e .
S f 3. ^ ^
A l s o f r o m the wave f o r c e t r a c e , at phase p o s i t i o n w h e l " ® rtial
p r o f i l e and s t i l l w a t e r i n t e r s e c t , one r e a d s the i n d i v i d u a l p e a K i^®""^
f o r c e s and c a l c u l a t e s
f 2 ^ J _ ^-^ . 2 (55)
ir N ZJ i i
w h e r e f^^^ i s the i n d i v i d u a l peak i n e r t i a l f o r c e .
Using H^, T , d (depth of w a t e r ) and S (depth of sub i ' ^ ^ ' ^ ^ ^ ' ^ ' ^ ^ '
f o r w a v e f o r c e d e t e r m i n a t i o n s , one can c a l c u l a t e u and ü - T h i s ca
198 COASTAL ENGINEERING
f nDa
= = 42 ^P C
"^Dr
_ D u / (57)
aad
f= = — P C D^d (58)
ir IT ^ mr r
I t then f o l l o w s that the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s of the peak f o X - c e s
( d r a g , i n e r t i a l , and c o m b i n e d d r a g and i n e r t i a l ) c a n be c a l c u l a t e d
the c o r r e s p o n d i n g equations g i v e n e a r l i e r .
A N A L Y S I S O F SOME D A T A P R E S E N T L Y A V A I L A B L E
T h e r e a r e s e v e r a l s o u r c e s of data w h i c h m i g h t be a n a l y z e d f c>
d e m o n s t r a t i o n p u r p o s e s . R e f e r e n c e s to these data a r e s u m m a r i z e d ^
r e p o r t b y B r e t s c h n e i d e r , C o l l i n s and P i c k (1965). E v i d e n t l y t h e r e
s o u r c e s of data w h i c h w o u l d be quite u s e f u l , n a m e l y W i e g e l , et. a l . < *
and 1957) and S k j e l b r e i a , et. a l . (1960), the l a t t e r of w h i c h i s not a - ^ ^ . ^ ^ ^ ' '
at p r e s e n t . T h e r e f o r e , the f o l l o w i n g d e m o n s t r a t i o n i s l i m i t e d to t h e
d a t a by W i e g e l (1954 and 1957), but i t w o u l d be of g r e a t advantage t o s-PP^^
the same d e m o n s t r a t i o n , f o r the sake of the "state of the a r t , " a l s o ^ o
the data used by S k j e l b r e i a , et. a l . ( I 9 6 0 ) .
WAVE F O R C E 199
100
1
DATA FROfil WIEGEL (1957) 1
90
TABLE I
80 1
[ 1
WAVES 228 - 325
70
D= 1 2 . 7 5 INCHES
60 1 1
50 ;
1 ' '
i : i
40 I '
' 1 ' : !
' 1 ; 1 ' 1
I ' l
30
1
•
20
15
• •
• *
•
H (ft) 10 >
•
..r
•
(INDIVIDUAL ) 9
8 • V
7 é
• • • *
'
- • - - ^
- ^
1 L.
3 4 5 6 8 10 15 20 25 3C 40 50 60 80 lOO
• D ( lbs ) ( I N D I V I D U A L )
T h e m a i n t e x t of t h i s paper m e n t i o n s t h r e e types of p r o b a b i l i t y
d i s t r i b u t i o n : R a y l e i g h , W e i b u l l , and the G a m m a t y p e . T h e R a y l e i g h
d i s t r i b u t i o n is t h e o r e t i c a l and the o t h e r t w o a r e e m p i r i c a l , w h i c h r e q u i r e
a s t a t i s t i c a l a n a l y s i s of e m p i r i c a l data. I n some r e s p e c t s the e m p i r i c a l
d i s t r i b u t i o n s t e n d to account f o r the n o n l i n e a r a s p e c t s , w h i c h a r e not
a l l o w e d f o r by the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n .
F i g u r e 1 is a t y p i c a l e x a m p l e of a wave h e i g h t and d r a g f o r c e d i s t r i -
b u t i o n , p l o t t e d on a W e i b u l l d i s t r i l a u t i o n g r a p h . I t i s seen f r o m F i g u r e 1
t h a t the r e l a t i o n s h i p f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n i s a s t r a i g h t l i n e w i t h
s t r a i g h t slope m . F o r the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n the slope s h o u l d be
m = Z f o r wave h e i g h t and m = 1 f o r d r a g f o r c e , based on l i n e a r w a v e
t h e o r y . O b v i o u s l y the c o r r e s p o n d i n g slopes w e r e not v e r i f i e d , f i r s t b e c a u s e
the data a r e i n c o m p l e t e f o r l o w wave h e i g h t s , and second, the waves and
f o r c e s a r e not d e s c r i b e d by l i n e a r wave t h e o r y . N e v e r t h e l e s s , t h e r e
e x i s t s a good e m p i r i c a l r e l a t i o n s h i p f o r c a l c u l a t i n g the c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t s , p r o v i d e d h i g h o r d e r wave t h e o r y i s used to c a l c u l a t e the
particle velocities.
F o r p u r p o s e s of d e m o n s t r a t i n g the c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t
and the c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t , r e f e r e n c e i s m a d e to the d a t a by
W i e g e l , et. a l . (1954 and 1957). The wave h e i g h t data w e r e g r o u p e d i n
o n e - f o o t i n c r e m e n t s . T a b l e s 1, Z and 3 c o r r e s p o n d to the o r i g i n a l data
by W i e g e l , et. a l . g i v e n i n h i s T a b l e s I , I I and I I I .
F i g u r e 3 shows a s c a t t e r d i a g r a m o r a j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n of H and
f j ^ of the o r i g i n a l data, p o i n t by p o i n t . A s can be seen, t h e r e i s t r e -
m e n d o u s s c a t t e r , b u t a t r e n d of i n c r e a s i n g f^-^ w i t h i n c r e a s i n g H . T h e
c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n f o r H and f^-^ a r e o b t a i n e d r e s p e c -
t i v e l y by s u m m a t i o n independent of each o t h e r . F i g u r e 4 shows c u m u l a t i v e
m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of d r a g f o r c e and wave h e i g h t p l o t t e d on l o g n o r m a l
g r a p h p a p e r . T h e f i f t h o r d e r g r a v i t y wave t h e o r y was u s e d to c a l c u l a t e
particle velocities.
T h e r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e , o r the o v e r a l l c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t f o r F i g u r e 3, i s a p p r o x i m a t e l y C^^^ = 0. 75. The d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t
f o r v a r i o u s w a v e h e i g h t and wave f o r c e p r o b a b i l i t i e s r a n g e s b e t w e e n 0. 4
and 0. 8 f o r l a r g e and s m a l l wave h e i g h t s , r e s p e c t i v e l y . T h e l o w e r v a l u e
of Cj_j^ m i g h t be a s s o c i a t e d w i t h a h i g h R e y n o l d s n u m b e r e f f e c t . I f C^-^^ =
0. 7 5 w e r e a p p l i e d to a l l wave h e i g h t s , m o s t of the d i s t r i b u t i o n of f o r c e s
w o u l d be v e r i f i e d , except that the m a x i m u m v a l u e s w o u l d be too h i g h by
a f a c t o r of 1. 5 to Z. 0.
WAVE F O R C E 201
00 N to
- ^
o X
O
\ X
O bo
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tr
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LLI ijj CO N
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in
202 COASTAL ENGINEERING
15
'3 4 5 6 8 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 80 100
( lbs ) ( RANKED )
100
DATA FROM WIEGEL (1957)
80 TABLE II
WAVES 23 - 127
D = 24 INCHES
60
50
40
30
20
15
•
• •
• • • • • -•
H (ft ) 10
• • • •
• • •
•
•
(INDIVIDUAL )
A A •
8 •
• •• • •
• •
6
• •
—•
5
1
5 6 8 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 80 100
f • (lbs) ( INDIVIDUAL
F i g u r e 5 shows t h a t t h e r e is a d e f i n i t e c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the
m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t and the m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n of
wave f o r c e . I n F i g u r e 5 the d e v i a t i o n s f r o m a s t r a i g h t l i n e a r e i n p a r t
a s s o c i a t e d w i t h the d e v i a t i o n of f r o m C^^ = 0. 7 5 given i n Figure 4.
F i g u r e 5 shows a t r e m e n d o u s i m p r o v e m e n t i n c o r r e l a t i o n f r o m that g i v e n
by the same data i n F i g u r e 4 . T h i s i s as expected f r o m any " g u n shot"
b l o c k of data.
F i g u r e 6 shows a s c a t t e r d i a g r a m o r a j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n
H and f ^ o b t a i n e d f r o m T a b l e 2 by W i e g e l , et. a l . T h e r e a g a i n a p p e a r s
to be a b s o l u t e l y no c o r r e l a t i o n between m e a s u r e d a p p a r e n t f^.^ and the
corresponding measured apparent H. The j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n H
and f ^ i s p r a c t i c a l l y z e r o .
F i g u r e 7 shows the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l c u m u l a t i v e d i s t r i b u t i o n
for f-Q and H . The c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t was c a l c u l a t e d to be
Cq^ = 0. 5 7 . Drag coefficients w e r e c a l c u l a t e d u s i n g the f i f t h o r d e r
g r a v i t y wave t h e o r y f o r a l l l e v e l s of p r o b a b i l i t y and f o r t h i s r e c o r d was
found to be v e r y n e a r l y a constant at C^^ = 0 . 5 7 . T h u s t h e r e i s p e r f e c t
c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of peak d r a g
f o r c e s and the m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t s .
DATA FROM
WIEGEL ( 1957 )
TABLE n
WAVES 2 3 - 127
D = 24 INCHES
1
IC)u
80
«
—^
•
3 4 5 6 8 10 1.5 20 30 40 50 60 80 100
f D ( lbs ) ( RANKED )
F i g u r e 8 g i v e s a p l o t of r a n k e d H and r a n k e d f^^ o r a c o r r e l a t i o n
between the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r the same data of
F i g u r e 6. I t shows a v e r y good d e g r e e of c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n t w o m a r g i n a l
probability distributions.
F i g u r e 9 shows c u m u l a t i v e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r f j ^ and H
b a s e d on data o r i g i n a l l y g i v e n i n an e a r l i e r r e p o r t by W i e g e l (1954). A g a i n
t h e r e i s an e x c e l l e n t c o r r e l a t i o n i n the c o n s t a n c y of d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t f o r
a l l l e v e l s of p r o b a b i l i t i e s , a v e r a g e value b e i n g about ^ j - j ~ -'9.
F i g u r e 10 shows a p l o t of r a n k e d f-^ v e r s u s r a n k e d H o r a
c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n p r e s e n t e d on
l i n e a r p a p e r f o r a n o t h e r wave r e c o r d . F o r l o w wave h e i g h t s i t a p p e a r s
that f ~ H , m o s t l y i n e r t i a l f o r c e ; intermediate heights f ~ , mostly
d r a g f o r c e s ; and f o r l a r g e wave h e i g h t s f ~ H ^ " , r e f l e c t i n g a h i g h
Reynolds number effect.
F i g u r e 11 is a s u m m a r y of d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t s based on F i g u r e s 4,
7 and 9. T w o c u r v e s a r e e s s e n t i a l l y the s a m e f o r a p i l e d i a m e t e r D = 2. 0
f e e t . The o t h e r c u r v e shows a p o s s i b i l i t y on the e f f e c t of p i l e d i a m e t e r ,
but t h i s is not c o n c l u s i v e . A d d i t i o n a l data f o r D = 1 f o o t f r o m the o r i g i n a l
r e p o r t by W i e g e l , et. a l . (1954) have been a n a l y z e d i n a s i m i l a r m a n n e r .
T h e r e s u l t s of t h e s e a n a l y s e s a r e shown i n F i g u r e 12. The a v e r a g e d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t i s C^^^ = 0. 7, b u t i s not c o n c l u s i v e . F o r the h i g h e r waves
b e c o m e s 0. 5 or l e s s , and is i n b e t t e r a g r e e m e n t w i t h the r e s u l t s f o r
D = 2. 0 f e e t . C o n s i d e r i n g a l l data, C^_^ is about 0. 65 + 20% and C^^
at the one p e r c e n t l e v e l i s about 0 . 5 + 20%.
CONCLUSIONS
1. A l t h o u g h t h e r e m a y be no c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n i n d i v i d u a l
a p p a r e n t wave f o r c e and a p p a r e n t wave h e i g h t , t h e r e c a n be a v e r y good
d e g r e e of c o r r e l a t i o n between the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y
distributions.
2. S t a t i s t i c a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of c a l c u l a t e d d r a g and i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t s
f r o m m e a s u r e d " a p p a r e n t " wave h e i g h t s and the c o r r e s p o n d i n g " a p p a r e n t "
wave f o r c e s as d e t e r m i n e d i n the past a r e a l m o s t m e a n i n g l e s s t o the d e s i g n
engineer.
3. A v e r a g e v a l u e s o f C-^ and C^ as d e t e r m i n e d i n t h e p a s t
( w e i g h t e d t o w a r d m a n y l o w e r wave h e i g h t s ) w h e n used f o r the d e s i g n wave
( m a x i m u m w a v e s ) s h o u l d be expected to p r e d i c t m a x i m u m p r o b a b l e f o r c e s
on the c o n s e r v a t i v e side of s a f e t y .
4. S t a t i s t i c a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of wave f o r c e s c o r r e l a t e d w i t h s t a t i s t i c a l
d i s t r i b u t i o n s of w a v e h e i g h t can have a l o t of m e a n i n g and v a l u e to the
design engineer. T h e p r o c e d u r e s used i n t h i s r e p o r t s h o u l d v e i n v e s t i g a t e d
i n g r e a t e r d e t a i l u s i n g new data.
5. T h e c o r r e l a t i o n c o e f f i c i e n t o f d r a g and the c o r r e l a t i o n c o e f f i c i e n t
of i n e r t i a s h o u l d be i n v e s t i g a t e d i n g r e a t e r d e t a i l u s i n g new a n d b e t t e r d a t a
than i s p r e s e n t l y a v a i l a b l e . T h e r e s u l t s of such an a n a l y s i s s h o u l d p e r m i t
the d e s i g n e n g i n e e r to s e l e c t b e t t e r v a l u e s of C.„ and C f o r the d e s i g n
wave. D
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
T h e w o r k p r e s e n t e d h e r e i s p a r t of a l a r g e r r e s e a r c h p r o g r a m on
ocean w a v e s , s u p p o r t e d by the U . S. N a v y B u r e a u of Y a r d s a n d . D o c k s
under contract NBy-45815.
REFERENCES
S k j e l b r i e a , L . , J. A . H e n d r i c k s o n , W. G r a g g and L . M . Webb ( I 9 6 0 ) .
" L o a d i n g on C y l i n d r i c a l P i l i n g s due to the A c t i o n of O c e a n W a v e s . "
NESCO T e c h n i c a l R e p o r t , 4 v o l u m e s .
W e i b u l l , W . (1591). " A S t a t i s t i c a l D i s t r i b u t i o n F u n c t i o n of W i d e A p p l i c a -
b i l i t y . " A S M E A p p l i e d M e c h a n i c s D i v . , paper p r e s e n t e d at A S M E
A n n u a l M e e t i n g , 1951.
TABLE 1
H n P n P
^D
4. 1 - 5 1 1 1 0 - 5 1 1 1
5. 1 - 6 8 9 9 1 5 1-10 32 33 33. 3
6. 1 - 7 13 22 22 2 10. 1-15 22 55 55. 6
7. 1 - 8 17 39 39 4 15. 1-20 11 66 66. 7
8. 1 - 9 25 64 64. 6 20. 1-25 U 77 77. 8
9. 1-10 15 79 79. 8 25. 1-30 6 83 83. 8
10.1-11 2 81 81. 8 30. 1-35 1 84 84. 8
11. 1-12 3 84 84. 8 35. 1-40 4 88 88. 9
12. 1-13 3 87 87. 9 40. 1-45 1 89 89. 9
13.1-14 4 91 91. 9 45. 1-50 2 91 91. 9
14. 1-15 2 93 93. 9 50. 1-55 3 94 94. 9
15. 1-16 55. 1-60 3 97 98. 0
16.1-17 1 94 94. 9 60. 1-65 1 98 99. 0
17. 1-18 2 96 97. 0
18. 1-19 1 97 98. 0
19. 1-20
20. 1-21 1 98 99. 0
d 48 f t . NOTE: A l l c a l c u l a t i o n s m a d e by
slide rule
S 42. 5 f t .
D 1.0 f t .
9.5 f t .
Hr
18 l b s .
iDa
T 14. 5 sec.
0. 75
^Dr
216 COASTAL ENGINEERING
TABLE 2
H n P n E- P
^D
5. 1 - 6 4 4 4. 1 0 - 5
6. 1 - 7 7 11 11.2 5. 1-10 9 9 9. 2
7. 1 - 8 18 29 29. 6 10. 1-15 24 33 33. 6
8. 1 - 9 24 53 54. 0 15. 1-20 19 52 53. 0
9. 1-10 20 73 74. 5 20. 1-25 13 65 66. 3
10. 1-11 14 87 88. 5 25. 1-30 16 81 82. 6
11. 1-12 7 94 96. 0 30. 1-35 10 91 92. 8
12. 1-13 3 97 98. 9 35. 1-40
40. 1-45
45. 1-50
d = 4 7 ft.
S = 3 3 ft.
D = 2 . 0 ft.
H^ = 9. 1 f t .
f^ = 20. 3 l b s .
_pa
T = 13. 4 sec.
^Dr =
WAVE F O R C E 217
TABLE 3
H n P f. n P
1
5 1-6 7 7 4. 6 5 1-10 1 1 0 67
6 1-7 10 17 11. 3 10 1-15 13 14 9 35
7 1-8 26 43 28. 5 15 1-20 13 27 18 0
8 1-9 32 75 49. 6 20 1-25 19 46 30 6
9 1-10 36 111 73. 5 25 1-30 33 79 52 6
10 1-11 24 135 89. 2 30 1-35 26 105 70 0
11 1-12 13 148 98. 1 35 1-40 14 119 79 2
12 1-13 2 150 99. 3 40 1-45 13 132 87 8
45 1-50 9 141 94 0
50 1-55 4 145 96 8
55 1-60 2 147 98 0
60 1-65
65 1-70
70 1-75
75 1-80 1 148 98 6
80 1-85 1 149 99 4
d = 47 f t .
S = 33 f t .
D =24 in.
H^ = 9 . 1 ft.
f. = 33. 0 l b s .
ir
T = 13. 3 sec.
C = 3. 1
mr