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com/products/face-care/eucerin-daily-protection-spf-30-
moisturizing-face

What it is
Ensulizole, also known as Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, is a whitish beige
powder.
What it does
Ensulizole is a sunscreen agent that provides mainly UVB and only minimal UVA
protection. That’s why, to offer broad-screen protection, Ensulizole needs to be used
in products together with ingredients that protect from UVA rays like Titanium
Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Mexoryl SX, Avobenzone and Tinosorb.
Although there aren’t many studies on the stability of Ensulizole when exposed to
sunlight, it doesn’t seem to degrade much and may also partly prevent other
sunscreen agents from degradation.
Ensulizole is water-soluble, so it feels light and not greasy on skin.

octinoxate
 Rating: BEST
 Categories: Sunscreen Actives
Also known as octyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octinoxate is the
oldest and most common sunscreen active used to protect skin, primarily against UVB rays.
Although octinoxate does provide some UVA protection, it does not protect against the entire
range of UVA wavelengths; therefore, there should be another UVA-protecting active present in
any sunscreen you use.

Octinoxate has a solid record of safety (decades of research and thousands of studies
establishing its safety in sunscreens as indisputable). There are no studies that demonstrate
octinoxate, when and as used in SPF products, is harmful. In the sole studies cited when such
claims are made, the conditions are completely inapplicable to how sunscreen ingredients are
used in skincare products. For example, such “studies” use extremely high concentrations of
octinoxate (much higher than would ever be used in sunscreens) or even fed to lab animals.

Description: UV-B Sunscreen. Also known as octyl salicylate. Approved use level: (US) Up to 5% alone
and 3-5% when used in combination with other sunscreen actives. Often used in combination with octyl
methoxycinnamate for higher SPF values. Solubilizes Benzophenone-3. It is used as an oil-soluble UV-B
filter in sun-care and cosmetic preparations. Ideal for water-resistant formulations.

INCI Name: Ethylhexyl salicylate

CAS: 118-60-5

Synonyms: Octyl salicylate

Specifications:
Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid

C12-15 Alkil Benzoat


Poreklo sirovine: SAD
Proizvođač: Making Cosmetics

Opis: C12-15 alkil benzoat je estar benzojeve kiseline i C12-15 alkohola, niske molekulske mase sa
velikom rastvorljivošću u vodi. Koristi se za modifikaciju proizvoda kako bi se unapredio osećaj
mekoće i ostali aspekti teksture proizvoda. Transparentna tečnost, praktično bez mirisa.

INCI Naziv: C12-15 alkil benzoat

Osobine: Ovaj estar sa emolijentnim efektom pogodan je za upotrebu u preparatima za negu kože, zaštitu
od sunca i izradu proizvoda dekorativne kozmetike. Uz odličan emolijentni efekat ima dodatnu osobinu da
disperguje pigmente. U preparatima za zaštitu od sunca, može se koristiti kao efikasan rastvarač za UV
filtre.

Upotreba: Može se dodati direktno kao takav, u uljanu fazu. Uobičajene koncentracije su 1-30%. Samo za
spoljašnju upotrebu.

Primena: Losioni, kreme, preparati za zaštitu od sunca, dekorativna kozmetika.

DIMETIKON

Zaštičeno ime: BRB Silicon fluid 200/350

Proizvođač: BRB Internacional

Zemlja porekla: Holandija

Opis: Dimetikon 350 je 100% aktivni, linearni, silikonski polimer sa viskozitetom od 350 cps (mPa.s.).
Linearni silikoni su polimeri velikih molekulskih masa (polidimetilsiloksani), obično su viskozni i više slični
uljima. Dimetikon 350 je bistra, blago viskozna tečnost, bez mirisa. Nerastvorljiv je u vodi, a rastvorljiv u
alkoholu; disperzibilan u uljima i mastima.

INCI ime: Dimethicone

CAS: 63148-62-9/ 9006-65-9/ 9016-00-6

Delovanje na kožu: Silikoni (organo-silikonski polimeri) su savršena zamena za ugljovodonike.


Smanjuju osećaj lepljenja na koži; permeabilni su (grade na površini kože filmove koji nisu okluzivni);
poseduju anti-adhezivni efekat; lako se nanose i razmazuju u odnosu na ostale komponente; prijanjaju
na kožu na koju se nanose (substantivnost). Deluju emolijentno, dobro se razmazuju i stvaraju
hidrofoban film. Mogu povećati SPF (Sun Protection Factor) u kozmetičkim proizvodima za zaštitu od
sunca; utiču na anti - age efekat. Daju mekoću i sjaj kosi.

Upotreba u kozmetičkim proizvodima: Silikoni se koriste u proizvodima za kosu i kožu kao što su
šamponi, regeneratori, kozmetički proizvodi za negu kože, zaštitu od sunca, losioni. Često su prisutni u
proizvodima dekorativne kozmetike. Koristi se za rastvaranje i suspendovanje (UV filtri, pigmenti…).

Upotreba: Dimetikon 350 se uobičajeno koristi u koncentraciji od 0,5% do 5 % (mogu se dodati i u višoj
koncentraciji). Dimetikon 350 se meša sa masnom fazom ili dodaje na kraju izrade. Nestabilan je na
temperaturi preko 50°C (125°F). Samo za spoljašnju upotrebu.

Metil propanediol I propanedioli


What is propanediol?
Propanediol (PDO) is a common ingredient in cosmetics and personal care
products such as lotions, cleansers, and other skin treatments. It’s a chemical
similar to propylene glycol, but thought to be safer.

However, there haven’t been enough studies yet to definitively determine safety.
But considering current data, it’s most likely that topical PDO in cosmetics carries
a low risk for serious problems.

PDO is currently approved for use in cosmetics, in restricted amounts, in the


United States, Canada, and Europe. But does that mean it’s totally safe? We’ll lay
out and analyze the evidence to help you make the right decision for you and your
family.

Where does it come from?


PDO is a chemical substance either derived from corn or petroleum. It can be clear
or very slightly yellow. It’s almost odorless. You’re likely to find PDO listed as an
ingredient in pretty much any category of cosmetics and personal care products.

What is it used for in cosmetics?


PDO has many household and manufacturing uses. It’s found in a variety of
products, from skin cream to printer ink to auto antifreeze.

Cosmetic companies use it because it’s effective — and low cost — as


a moisturizer. It can help your skin quickly absorb other ingredients in your
product of choice. It can also help dilute other active ingredients.
What cosmetics is it found in?
According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), you’ll find PDO most
often in facial moisturizers, serums, and face masks. But you can also find it in
other personal care products, including:

 antiperspirant
 hair color
 eyeliner
 foundation

How does it appear on ingredients


lists?
Propanediol can be listed under several different names. The most common ones
include:

 1,3-propanediol
 trimethylene glycol
 methylpropanediol
 propane-1,3-diol
 1,3-dihydroxypropane
 2-deoxyglycerol

Is it different than propylene glycol?


There are actually two distinct forms of PDO: 1,3-propanediol and 1,2-
propanediol, also known as propylene glycol (PG). In this article, we’re talking
about 1,3-propanediol, although these two chemicals are similar.
PG has recently received some negative press as a skin care ingredient. Consumer
protection groups have raised concerns that PG can irritate eyes and skin, and is a
known allergen to some.

PDO is thought to be safer than PG. And although the two chemicals have the
exact same molecular formula, their molecular structures are different. That means
they behave differently when used.

PG is associated with multiple reports of skin and eye irritation and sensitization,
while the data on PDO is less harmful. So, many companies have begun to use
PDO in their formulas instead of PG.

INCI Name: Cetearyl alcohol


Benefits:
 Non-gelling thickener, viscosity and consistency enhancer
 Works also in water-free products like lipsticks
 Acts as co-emulsifier at concentrations under 2%
 Has emollient, moisturizing, and foam boosting properties
Use: Melt before use (54°C/129°F) or add to hot water phase. Usual concentration 0.5-10%. For external
use only.
Applications: Lotions, creams, hair shampoos, conditioners, body washes, makeup products.
Country of Origin: USA
Raw material source: Coconut oil and vegetable oils
Manufacture: Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol which
are made by catalytic hydrogenation of the triglycerides obtained from vegetable and coconut oils and
followed by oxidation of a chain growth product of ethylene oligomerized on a triethylaluminum catalyst.

Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are the two major components of Cetearyl
Alcohol. These ingredients are all fatty alcohols and that are widely used in
cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?


Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols keep an emulsion from separating
into its oil and liquid components. These ingredients are also used to alter the
thickness of liquid products and to increase foaming capacity or to stabilize foams.

Cetyl alcohol
Poreklo sirovine: Italija

Proizvođač: Sabo S.p.A

Zaštičeno ime: Sabonal C16 - 1-Hexadecanol; Cetanol; Hexadecan-1-ol; N-Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmityl
Alchohol; Adol; Adol 52; Adol 54; Alchohol C-16; Atalco C
Strukturna formula: Cetil alkohol je 1-heksadekanol, palmitil alkohol. Ime cetil je izvedeno od kitovog
ulja (lat. cetus). Otkriven je 1817. putem zagrevanja spermaceta, voskaste supstance dobijene iz kitovog ulja,
u prisustvu kalijum hidroksida. Pahuljice cetil alkohola su ostale u sudu nakon hlađenja.

Opis: Cetyl alkohol se koristi kao koemulgator, emolijens, ingredijent za regulisanje viskoziteta (reološki
modifikator), ne gelirajući ugušćivač i kao sredstvo za zamućenje. Dobija se iz biljnih ulja, a više od 95% se
sastoji od masnih alkohola. To su bele ljuspe, bez ili blagog mirisa. Rastvorljiv je u dietil etru i acetonu,
slabo rastvorljiv u alkoholu. Nerastvorljiv je u hladnoj vodi, a delimično rastvorljiv u toploj. (1.34x10-5
g/l). HLB = 15.5

INCI ime: Cetyl Alcohol

CAS: 36653-82-4

Upotreba u kozmetičkim proizvodima: Koristi se kao koemulgator, emolijens, za regulisanje viskoziteta,


ne gelirajući ugušćivač i sredstvo za zamućenje. Povećava viskozitet i konzistenciju (u proizvodima bez vode
poput stikova za usne). Dodaje se u zagrejanu, masnu fazu (54°C). Uobičajne koncentracije koje se koriste
su 0,5 do 6%. Koristi za izradu losiona, krema, šampona, kondicionera za kosu i proizvoda dekorativne
kozmetike. Samo za spoljašnju upotrebu.

Izvor dobijanja sirovine: Dobija se katalitičkom hidrogenacijom triglicerida dobivenih iz biljnih ulja,
nakon čega sledi oksidacija produkta i rasta lanca etilena koji je oligomeriziran na trietilaluminijskom
katalizatoru.

Testiranje na životinjama: Supstanca nije testirana na životinjama

Cetearet-20

Poreklo sirovine: Italija

Zaštičeno ime: Sabowax CS 20

Sinonimi: PEG-20 Cetostearyl Alchohol; PEG-20 Cetyl/Stearyl Ether;

Opis: Ceteareth-20 je nejonski, polioksietilovani etar dugolančanih zasićenih masnih alkohola (cetil/stearil
alkohol). To su bele pelete, bez mirisa. Rastvara se u vodi i alkoholu, formirajući koloidne rastvore. Može
se mešati sa mineralnim, biljnim i sintetskim mastima i uljima. HLB vrednost 15-17 (daje U/V emulzije).

INCI ime: Ceteareth-20

CAS: 68439-49-6

Upotreba u kozmetičkim proizvodima: Univerzalni emulgator koji daje U/V emulzije, kompatibilan sa
svim vrstama ulja i aktivnim sastojcima, izuzetno efikasan koloidni sistem za zaštitu koji stabilizuje
različite vrste disperznih sistema, može se kombinovati sa emulgatorima, optimalno sa gelirajućim
ugušćivačima.
Upotreba: Uobičajene koncentracije su 0.5-30% (opseg od 15-30% se koristi za dobijanje hidrata sličnih
gelu koji služe za čišćenje). Samo za spoljašnju upotrebu.

Primena: Za sve vrste emulzionih kozmetičkih proizvoda poput krema, losiona (posebno sprej losiona),
podloga, kondicionera za kosu, proizvoda za zaštitu od sunca.

Dokumentacija: Fact Sheet, Bezbednosni list (SDS), Sertifikat analize,

Formulacije: Rp 040

Glyceryl Stearate SE
Zaštičeno ime: Sabowax GMS-SE

Proizvođač: Sabo S.p.A

Poreklo sirovine: Italija

Testiranje na životinjama: Supstanca nije testirana na životinjama

GMO: Nije GMO

Vegan: Ne sadrži komponente životinjskog porekla

Sinonimi: Sabowax GMS-SE; Glyceryl monostearate; Monostearin; Glyceryl stearate; Stearoyl glycerol;
Glycerin 1-Stearat; Tegin

Opis: Gliceril stearate SE (samoemulgujući jer sadrži malu količinu, 3-6%, kalijum stearata) je monoester
glicerina i stearinske kiseline. Biljnog je porekla i dobija se iz sojinog ulja. To je emulgator čija je HLB
vrednost oko 5,8. (HLB vrednost običnog glyceril stearata je 3,8 ). Koristiti se i kao koemulgator za
formulacije ulje u vodi (u koncentracijama od 1-2%). To su sjajne ljuspice, blagog mirisa. Rastvorljiv je u
ulju.

INCI ime: Glyceryl Stearate SE

What Is It?
Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are naturally occuring organic acids also known as
Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs. The salts of Glycolic Acid (Ammonium Glycolate,
Sodium Glycolate), the salts of Lactic Acid (Ammonium Lactate, Calcium Lactate,
Potassiu Lactate, Sodium Lactate, TEA-Lactate) and the esters of Lactic Acid
(Methyl Lactate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Cetyl
Lactate) may also be used in cosmetics and personal care products. In cosmetics
and personal care products, these ingredients are used in the formulation of
moisturizers, cleansing products, and other skin care products, as well as in makeup,
shampoos, hair dyes and colors and other hair care products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?


The following functions have been reported for Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and their
salts and esters.

 Buffering agent - Ammonium Lactate, Potassium Lactate, Sodium Lactate


 Cosmetic astringent - Calcium Lactate
 Exfoliant - Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Ammonium Glycolate, Ammonium
Lactate, Calcium Lactate, Potassium Lactate, Sodium Lactate
 Humectant - Lactic Acid
 pH adjuster - Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Ammonium Glycolate, Sodium
Glycolate
 Skin conditioning agent - emollient - Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Cetyl
Lactate
 Skin conditioning agent - humectant - Lactic Acid, Ammonium Lactate,
Potassium Lactate, Sodium Lactate, TEA-Lactate
 Skin conditioning agent - miscellaneous - Lactic Acid
 Solvent - Methyl Lactate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate

Hexanediol, 1,2-hexanediol
* A widely used humectant and coupling agent

According to a patent filed by Proctor and Gamble, Hexanediol and 1,2-hexanediol is


a highly effective and mild coupling agent and humectant. It is especially useful when
bonding silicone products and can be used at lower concentrations than many other
coupling agents, therefore reducing its irritation likeliness.

VP/hexadecene copolymer
 Rating: GOOD
 Categories: Film-Forming/Holding Agents, Texture Enhancer
Synthetic polymer that functions as a binding agent, texture enhancer, and dispersing agent in
cosmetics

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?


In cosmetics and personal care products, Xanthan Gum may function as a binder
, emulsion stabilizer , skin-conditioning agent - miscellaneous , surfactant -
emulsifying agent , or viscosity increasing agent - aqueous . Biosaccharide Gum-1
is reported to function as a skin conditioning agent - miscellaneous.

ANTHAN GUM is classified as :


 Binding
 Emulsifying
 Emulsion stabilising
 Gel forming
 Skin conditioning
 Surfactant
 Viscosity controlling

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil


Zaštičeno ime: Sabowax ELH 40

Zemlja porekla: Italija

Proizvođač: Sabo S.p.A

Opis: PEG-40 hidrogenizovano ricinusovo ulje je nejonski, etoksilovani estar polietilenglikola dobijen iz
ricinusovog ulja. Sjajna / žuta tečnost, a može biti i polučvrst. Meša se sa vodom i uljima. HLB vrednost
15 (daje emulzije ulje u vodi). pH 5,5-7 (3% u vodi).

CAS: 61788-85-0

INCI naziv: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Osobine: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil je multifunkcionalno sredstvo koje se koristi kao emulgator,
surfaktant i solubilizator. Koristi se i kao peneće sredstvo i solubilizator ekstrakta, parfema i vitamina.

Upotreba: Može se dodati formulama u osnovnom obliku ,takav kao što je. Uobičajene koncentracije se
kreću od 1 do 10%. Samo za spoljnu upotrebu.

Primena: Univerzalno primenjiv, naročito u tečnim sapunama, losionima, kupkama, gelovima za tuširanje,
šamponima za kosu, sredstvima za čišćenje lica, dekorativnoj kozmetici.

Alumina

Functions:

Primarily used as an abrasive and thickening agent, but also


functions as an anti-caking agent and absorbent. It can be found in
cosmetic products like blush, powder foundation, lipstick and facial
cleanser. It also acts as an insoluble carrier for mineral pigment, and
is frequently mixed into mineral powder makeup. Because of its
abrasive texture, many use these crystals to exfoliate and resurface
the skin-particularly with Microdermabrasion.
* A crystalline compound of Aluminum and Oxygen. See aluminum oxide.

Primarily used as an abrasive and thickening agent, but also functions as an anti-
caking agent and absorbent. It can be found in cosmetic products like blush, powder
foundation, lipstick and facial cleanser. It also acts as an insoluble carrier for mineral
pigment, and is frequently mixed into mineral powder makeup.

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate,


Sodium Cetyl Sulfate, Sodium Coco/Hydrogenated Tallow Sulfate, Sodium Coco-
Sulfate, Sodium Decyl Sulfate, Sodium Ethylhexyl Sulfate, Sodium Myristyl Sulfate,
Sodium Oleyl Sulfate, Sodium Stearyl Sulfate, Sodium Tallow Sulfate, Sodium
Tridecyl Sulfate and Zinc Coco-Sulfate are salts of fatty alcohols bound to a sulfate
group, also called alkyl sulfates. Coconut oil is the source of fatty alcohols for those
ingredients with Coco in the name. Among these structurally-related ingredients,
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is the most frequently used in cosmetics and personal care
products. Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is the sodium salt of a mixture of cetyl and stearyl
sulfate. It is a white to faintly yellow powder. In cosmetics and personal care
products, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is used in the formulation of hair care products
including shampoo, skin cleansers, and other skin care products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?


When used in cosmetics and personal care products, the alkyl sulfates have the
following functions.

 Surfactant - cleansing agent - Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-


Sulfate, Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate, Magnesium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium
Cetyl Sulfate, Sodium Coco/Hydrogenated Tallow Sulfate, Sodium Coco-
Sulfate, Sodium Myristyl Sulfate, Sodium Oleyl Sulfate, Sodium Stearyl
Sulfate, Sodium Tridecyl Sulfate, Zinc Coco-Sulfate
 Surfactant - emulsifying agent - Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium
Coco/Hydrogenated Tallow Sulfate, Sodium Stearyl Sulfate, Sodium Tallow
Sulfate, Sodium Tridecyl Sulfate, Zinc Coco-Sulfate
 Surfactant - foam booster - Sodium Decyl Sulfate
 Surfactant 0 hydrotrope 0 Sodium Ethylhexyl Sulfate

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