Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
CHINA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
CHINA
Project Editors Hugh Thompson, Kathryn Lane
Project Art Editor Gadi Farfour
Editor Vandana Mohindra
Designers Mathew Kurien, Maite Lantaron,
Pallavi Narain, Rebecca Milner
Picture Researcher Ellen Root
Research Assistant Monica Yue Hua Ma
Map Co-ordinators Uma Bhattacharya, Casper Morris
DTP Designer Jason Little
Confucius (551–479 BC)
Main Contributors
Donald Bedford, Deh-Ta Hsiung, Christopher Knowles,
David Leffman, Simon Lewis, Peter Neville-Hadley, Andrew Stone
Contents
Consultants
Christopher Knowles, Peter Neville-Hadley
Introducing China
Photographers Discovering China 10
Demetrio Carrasco, Ian Cumming, Eddie Gerald, Nigel Hicks,
Colin Sinclair, Chris Stowers, Linda Whitwham
Putting China
Illustrators
on the Map 18
Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper,
Kevin Goold, Paul Guest, Claire Littlejohn,
John Mullany, Chris Orr, Arun Pottirayil A Portrait of China 20
Printed in Malaysia
China Through the Year 50
First published in the UK in 2005
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The History of China 56
A Penguin Random House Company
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Beijing &
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 the North
Copyright 2005, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in Introducing Beijing
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior & the North 76
written permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
Beijing 84
ISBN 978-0-2412-0846-5
Floors are referred to in accordance with American usage, Hebei, Tianjin & Shanxi
ie the “first floor” is at ground floor level.
126
Shaanxi 166
Central China
The information in this
Introducing
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly Central China 180
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are Shanghai 188
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Jiangsu & Anhui 208
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: The Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com. Zhejiang & Jiangxi 244
The external boundaries of China as shown
in this book are neither correct nor authentic.
Hunan & Hubei 264
Front cover main image: Red Pagoda in the Shibaozhai area of Chongqing,
The Great Wall meandering along the ridges of northern China’s mountainous terrain
The South
Introducing
The South 282
Fujian 290
The Southwest
Introducing
The Southwest 346
Sichuan & Chongqing 354 The picturesque Tian Chi – Heaven’s Lake – in Changbai Shan
Yunnan 378
Gansu & Qinghai 482 Entertainment 590
Guizhou & Guangxi 402
Xinjiang 506 Sports & Specialist
Holidays 592
Tibet
Survival Guide
Introducing Tibet 522
Practical Information 598
Tibet 530
Travel Information 612
Travelers’ Needs
General Index 622
Where to Stay 554
Acknowledgments 650
Pailou, a decorative gate, leading to Gao Where to Eat
Miao in Zhongwei, Ningxia and Drink 564 Glossary 654
Liaoning, Jilin,
& Heilongjiang 442
Inner Mongolia
& the Silk Road
Introducing
Inner Mongolia &
The Silk Road 464
Inner Mongolia
& Ningxia 472
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
1 At a Glance
A map-based feature introduces
each of the seven regional
The South at a Glance
Encompassing the provinces of Fujian, Guangdong,
and Hainan, as well as Macau and Hong Kong, the
South is China’s most familiar region, mainly because
millions of immigrants from the area have moved
overseas, taking their cooking and traditions with
them. Yet, with the exception of Hong Kong and
Guangzhou, the area rarely features on travelers’
Nanchang
Shaowu
Wuyishan
Jianyang
Pucheng
Songxi
Wenzhou
Zherong
Jiuf
Fu’an
Fu
itineraries. There is much to enjoy, however, from Jian ’ou
eng
sections, giving an illustrated
tu
Taining
n
the ancient Ming city of Chaozhou and Wuyi Shan’s
Xi
Ningde
Sha
Nanping
Mi
superb scenery, to the historic ports of Quanzhou, Jiangle
a
nJ Luoyuan
n
ian
g
S h
Xiamen, and Shantou along the coasts of Guangdong FUJIAN Lianjiang
overview of the area. The map and Fujian, and the tropical beaches of Hainan. Fishermen laboring on the beach at Sanming
an
Meizhou Island Fuzhou
Sh
Liancheng Yong ’an
n
Fuqing
y i
yu
indicates major cities and sights. n i
ha Da Putian
oS
ma
W u
Changsha
Dai Zhangping
Longyan Hui’an Women of the Hui’an minority,
Nan ’an Chongwu
Ganzhou Shanghang Quanzhou
Lianzhou Shaoguan Tong ’an
Jinjiang
Qujiang Zhangzhou
Yangshan Xiamen
ng
ia n Puning
g Zhaoqing Guangzhou Huizhou Chaoyang
Wuzhou Haifeng
Foshan Dongguan
Luoding Lufeng FUJIAN
Jiangmen Shenzhen
Wuchuan
Zhanjiang
Dianbai
Leizhou 0 km 150
0 miles 150
Beijing Opera
coded chapter divisions within
Visually stunning and with a distinct
musical style, the plays are based on
Chinese history and literature. Beijing
the section.
Opera is a form of “total theater” with
singing, speech, mime, acrobatics, and
symbolic visual effects.
Monkey is one
Mei Lanfang was the foremost
interpreter of the female role type or
dan during the opera’s heyday in the
1920s and 1930s. Traditionally all female
roles were played by male actors,
although that has now changed.
2 Regional Feature
Each regional introduction highlights
aspects of the area’s culture, history,
of the favorite
characters – clever, The Four Main Roles
resourceful, and
brave. He appears
in Chinese classic
There are four main role types in Beijing
Opera: the sheng (male) and dan
(female) roles have naturalistic make-
geography, and cuisine. Fascinating
literature (see p34–5).
Chou: with a
up. The jing or “painted faces,” in
contrast, have stylized
patterned, colored faces,
while the chou are comic
features are sprinkled throughout the
The colors of the painted faces Sheng: these may be white patch on his
symbolize the individual
character’s qualities. Red, for
example, represents loyalty and
young or old, with
beard or without.
Dan: there are six
face, the chou is
usually dim but
amusing.
characters.
area chapters as well.
courage; purple, solemnity and a parts within this
sense of justice; green, bravery role from virtuous
and irascibility. girl to old woman.
3
and envelops the wealthy conurbations of Beijing and
Chapter Introduction Tianjin – Hebei’s former capital and a repository
of foreign concession-era architecture.
Shanxi (West of the Mountains), its northern edge protected by the Great Wall, was once
Each chapter is coded a different a buffer zone against the hostile Mongol and Turkic tribes. It is largely a mountainous plateau,
heavily industrialized, with the Yellow River (Huang He) flowing the length of its western
border. Leaving Beijing, most visitors first explore Chengde, with its imperial park and temple
color. For easy reference, all sights architecture, or the celebrated Buddhist carvings at Yungang, outside Datong. Other key
sights include the magnificent Hanging Temple clinging to the cliff face, the peaceful hills
around Wutai Shan, one of China’s four sacred Buddhist mountains and the charming Ming
in the area are numbered and and Qing architecture in the ancient walled town of Pingyao.
0 Taiyuan
Fengning
He
1 Chengde pp128–31
2
in the chapter.
11
G6
8 Hanging Temple Zhangjiakou Luanping
w Shuanglin Si G45 Qinglong
Xuanhua
Beijing Qinhuangdao
109 Yuxian
He G1
an
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8
10
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Laiyuan G25
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Bo Hai
Hu a n
Baoding G45
Jinghai
G3
Xinzhou Dingzhou
r(
ve
Ri Cangzhou
Yellow
Botou
G5
0 Hengshui
Lishi G2 Yangquan
Yuci
Fenyang
G4
Nangong
Jiexiu Key
Qinxian Weixian
Handan Expressway
G5
G45
Anyang
G5 Railroad
major roads.
Jincheng Provincial border
Yuncheng Great Wall of China
0 km 100
0 miles 100
A traditional Chinese building illuminated at night For map symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
444 THE NORTHEAST LIAONING, JILIN & HEILONGJIANG 445
4
that Shunzhi (Aisin Gioro Fulin)
BEILING JIE
2 Mao Statue
yang’s premier historical sight,
situated in what was the center
of the old city. Its construction
Palace is where the
emperor and his
concubines resided. The
are the Great Hall and
Falun Temple. 3 North Pagoda
4 18 September Museum Pagoda of
Buddhist Ashes
Beiling Park
18 September
Museum
address, opening times, transport
began in 1625, during the reign Phoenix Tower, the tallest E 18 September 5 North Tomb CHONGSHAN DONG
LU
E
of Nurhachi (1559–1626), leader structure in the imperial Museum
JI
Pagoda
HUANGHE JIE
A
U
of the Manchus. In 1644, grounds can be found 46 Wanghua Nanjie. Tel N
G
H
Qishanlu A
Manchu troops breached the here too. (024) 8832 0918. Open 9am–
W
Great Wall at Shanhaiguan (see In the western section, 4pm Tue–Sun. & ^ North
Station Shenyang Beizhan
LU Express
p134) and swarmed into China the Wensu Pavilion The Jiuyiba Lishi AN Bus Station
IZH
to establish the Qing dynasty. formerly housed one Bowuguan com- BE
residence of both Nurhachi and 36,078-volume Siku Wei Tuo Buddha, North occupation of Shifuguangchang
East Tomb
SHIFU DA LU SHIFU DA LU
his son and heir Abahai, the Quanshu (Complete Pagoda Shenyang on I JIE
92 B E I JX I N G & ZHONG
T H EJIE N O R T H BEIJING 93
0 km Mao
palace is composed of 300 Library of the Four September 18, 1931, 1 South I A OXI LU SHOPPING ST
GL
QINGNIA
EN
GSHA
rooms. While its features reflect Treasures), an encyclopedic by Japanese troops. Its exhibits 0 miles 1 ZHON
SH
LU Imperial
a pronounced Manchu and collection of Chinese literature make up the most comprehen-
CHAOYANG JIE
Liaoning XI Palace
DA
ve r . Marble Carriageway
N
Shenyang Zhan
Mongol influence, the palace compiled in the Qing era, of sive chronicle of the Japanese
Provincial
8
Museum
Forbidden City Qingnian Dajie Ri
The central ramp carved
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
n
CAAC
DAJI
Nan-
Na
was obviously an attempt to which only four sets survive. The aggression in Manchuria. Like NA
NW Taiyuanjie Shichang
with dragons chasing
E
U
LU
emulate its Ming counterpart, Dazheng Hall is the central other museums with a similar LU Practical Information
EI LU
G
Qingniangongyuan
Forming the veryAirport
heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City, pearls among clouds was
PIN
the Forbidden City, Beijing. The feature of the eastern section, theme, some of the displays can South Bus SHIS
ANW North of Tian’an Men Square.
Station
reserved for the emperor.
HE
Key to Symbols see back flap 10 km (6 miles), Map 1 C5. Tel (010) 8500 7421.
palace divides into three fronted by pillars emblazoned be rather gruesome. officially known as the
JINZHOU
Palace Museum (Gugong), is
Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–5pm
China’s most magnificent architectural complex and was
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85 daily; Nov–Mar: 8:30am–4:30pm
completed in 1420. The huge palace is a compendium of daily. & = 8 9 -
imperial architecture and a lasting monument of dynastic
Transport
China from which 24 emperors ruled for nearly 500 years. ∑ dpm.org.cn
The symbolic center of the Chinese universe, the palace
was the exclusive domain of the imperial court and Chinese Lions
dignitaries until the abdication in 1912. It was opened Pairs of lions guard the entrances
A sight list corresponds to the to the public in 1949. of halls. The male is portrayed
with a ball under his paw, while
the female has a lion cub.
5 Major Sights
Historic buildings are intricately
illustrated; museums have color-coded Outer Court
At the center of the
Forbidden City, the
Outer Court is easily
KEY
N LU
X U E Y UA N NA
Exploring Beijing
D XI Z H I M E N B E I DA J I E
DALIUSH
E P I N G L I X I J IE
W E NH U I YU A N LU
XINJIEKOU BEI DAJIE
SI DAOK
DA H UIS I L U PARK
Anding
marked on this map. At the core is the Forbidden Jishuitan Men Yonghe Gong
H
OU
LU GA DONG
City, with Tian’an Men Square and Qian Men N NAN DESH E N G ME N ANDING MEN
Z H O NG GU ANCUN
OL
UA I AN J IE DONG D AJIE XI DAJIE BE
XI DA
DONG ZHI MEN
LU
B E I X I AO J I E
EY G QIA
ZHI MIEEN
Gulou
NAN D A JIE
Y O N G H E G O N G DAJ I E
BEI LUOGU
ID
XU O X Dajie
MINZU
X I AN G
IE
H E NG
AJ
6
JIE
DAJIE
G U OZI
J I U G U LO U
Men
X I N J IE KO U
GU LO U D O NG DAJIE
XIZHI MEN WA Xing
LIUYIN
northeast is the Buddhist Lama Temple. North I DAJIE Xizhi Men Bus Terminal
NAN LUOGU
DI'A N M E N W A I
X I Z H I M EN
N AN D AJIE
Jie Kou
DONG ZHI MEN
X IZHI M EN
Bus Terminal
XIANG
Beijing
of Beihai Park, Prince Kung's Mansion stands in N WAI
DAJIE
NAN
JIE
DAJIE
XI H UAN G CHEN GG EN
DONG DAJIE
X IS H I KU D AJ IE
ZHONG LU
G O NG R E N
Chegong
the Temple of Heaven, is a majestic example of
BEI DAJIE
DONG SI
B EI JIE
IA
Zhuang
G Q
Chaoyang
TAI
JIN J I E D AJ IE X I D AJIE
R I TA N LU C HAO W A I S H I-
XIDAN BEI DAJIE
DAJIE
CHAOYANG MEN
Fucheng Men
DAJIE
scenic Ming Tombs.
WAN GFU J I N G
CHA N G JI E
D A J IE
DONG SI
FUC HE N G M E N
NAN DAJIE
FUYOU JIE
C H AO YA N G M E N
N AN X I AO J I E
DAJI E
NA N D A JI E
ISHI LU
HUT O N G
B E I CHIZ I
X I J IE
IE
Zhong
DAJ
(SONG
QINGLING
Hai
Y U E TA N Dengshikou
Greater Beijing
NANL
NAN JIE
HUTONG RI TAN
SCIENCE PARK) JIN BAO JIE
TA I P I N G Q I AO
JINRONE JIE
PARK
LIHE
Lingjing
Hutong Nan Hai Tian'an
G UA N G HU A LU
SA N
Men
X IBI A N M E N
WA I D A J I E
XUA
X IN WE NH U A JI E X I R ON G X I AN
Miyun Changchun Jie H UT O N G Qian Men Beijing Zhan B E I J I N G Z HA N
Tour D O N G JIE
Heping Bus Terminal Bus Station
Huairou W
N
AN Men
SH Men
UKOU JIE DONG XING-
XIANY
C H ON G W E N M E N W A I D
Beijing
D AJ IE
LO N G J I E
International Airport LA
OQ JIE
QIAN MEN
IANG Ciqikou
AN
J I E G EN AL
DON G
Caishi DA D AJ I E
GUANG'AN Kou ZHUS
Tongxian HEBEI MEN NEI DAJIE L U OM A S H I OU
Z H U S H I KJIE
HU F A N G L U
DAJIE XI DA
NIU JIE
T I A N TA N L
U 0 km 1
Liangxiang 0 km
YONG'AN LU
20
YON G D IN G M E N N E I
PARK
Daxing
JIE
N A N HEN G NANHENG DO N
0 miles 20 G B E I W EI L U
ZIXIN LU
X I JI E JIE
Tianqiao
TIA N TA N D O N G L U
D A J IE
TAI P I N G JIE
B AIZ H I FA N G TAO RA N T I N
G LU
DONG JIE
Sights at a Glance
k White Tower Temple Taoranting
Historic Buildings, Sites, & Museums & Galleries Hu Tian Tan
Dong Men
Neighborhoods c Great Bell Temple
2 National Museum of China Y ONG DI NG M EN DO NG BIN H E L U
. Tanzhe Temple Y OU ' AN MEN DONG BINHE LU
1 Tian’an Men Square pp88–9 5 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall
3 Qian Men u National Art Museum of China
4 Underground City
6 Dazhalan and Liulichang
p Southeast Corner Watchtower
a Beijing Natural History Museum
Shops & Markets
i Wangfujing Street Bulleted sights are listed in
8 Forbidden City pp92–5 d Capital Museum Parks & Zoos
q Prince Kung's Mansion
w Drum and Bell Towers
o Ancient Observatory
j Military Museum of the
Chinese People’s Revolution
9 Jing Shan Park
0 Bei Hai Park Getting Around
alphabetical order.
Temples, Churches, & Mosques t Di Tan Park
z Summer Palace pp106–8 A system of ring roads encircles the city
l Beijing Zoo
x Yuanming Yuan 7 South Cathedral center, and the best way to explore this
v Xiang Shan Park Key area is by taxi, by subway, or by bicycle
b Ming Tombs pp110–11 e Lama Temple
n Great Wall of China pp112–15 r Confucius Temple National expressway (see pp620–21). The bus service, though
m Eastern Qing Tombs y Dong Yue Miao Main road extensive, is generally slow and
s Temple of Heaven pp102–3
overcrowded. Organized tours are another
, Marco Polo Bridge Provincial border
option for a quick overview of the sights.
/ Peking Man Site f Cow Street Mosque Great Wall of China Most hotels and agencies operate tour
! National Olympic Stadium g Fayuan Temple
buses for visiting sights outside Beijing,
@ Chuandixia h White Clouds Temple
although hiring a taxi for the day allows
for greater flexibility.
194 CENTRAL CHINA SHANGHAI 195
For additional map symbols see back flap
thumb tabs. See the inside front despite competition from areas
such as chic Huaihai Road.
The street is divided in two –
E Shanghai Art Museum
Open Tue–Sun (last adm 4pm). &
E Shanghai Urban Planning
Nanjing Road East runs from
cover for a map showing all the Bund to People’s Square,
after which it becomes Nanjing
Road West, a total length of 6
Exhibition Hall
Open Tue–Sun (last adm 4pm). &
F Shanghai Grand Theater
4 Shanghai
East, which is filled with upscale
brand malls, stores, and People’s Square in front of the ringed by gleaming glass and Museum A view of Shanghai’s Old Racecourse before 1949
boutiques. Theaters, cinemas, Pacific Hotel, with its impressive metal skyscrapers. Facing it See pp196–7.
restaurants, beauty salons, and exterior and fine plasterwork on its eastern side is Mu’en
crowds of shoppers complete interior, and the dark and Tang, the Merciful Baptism the status of Special Economic observation deck has views down
7
the picture. Before 1949, all the brooding Park Hotel, once one Church that was built in 1929 Zone, and became one of the on the Pearl. Both are surpassed
Pudong
Detailed Information major stores were located here.
One of them, the Sun
Department Store, is now the
of the city’s most fashionable
hotels, as well as China’s tallest
building when it was built in
as the American Baptist Church.
An inter-denominational
survivor of China’s many
5
information and it’s name in People’s Park and the Bund, with
its numerous 1930s European-
style buildings, is perpetually
residential developments such
as Plaza 66, Westgate Mall, and
the Shanghai Center (see p206).
house regularly changing
exhibitions of cutting-edge art
and design. At the northwest
the home of the notorious
gangster Du Yuesheng or Big-
Eared Du. In 1990, it acquired
Museum. Pudong is also the site
of the 1,379-ft (421-m) Jinmao
Tower, whose 88th-floor
E Shanghai History Museum
Tel (021) 5879 1888.
Open 8am–9:30pm.
busy. The road culminates on There is a clutch of designer corner of the park, the Shanghai
DISCOVERING CHINA
The following itineraries have been designed their stay to ten days. Next come two seven-
to take in as many of China’s highlights as day tours, covering two beautiful areas of
possible, while minimizing long-distance southwest China. These can be combined
travel. First are three two-day tours of the to make a fascinating two-week journey
country’s most iconic cities: Beijing, Shanghai, across the region. Finally, there is a two-
and Hong Kong. The itineraries can be week itinerary that traces the ancient Silk
followed individually or combined to form Road from Xi’an to Kashgar. Pick, combine,
a week-long tour. Extra suggestions are and follow your favorite itineraries, or simply
provided for those who wish to extend dip in and out and be inspired.
Turpan
Kuqa
Tarim
Kashgar XINJIANG
0 kilometers 300
0 miles 300
Key A Week in Guangxi
and Yunnan
Two Weeks on the Silk Road
A Week in Guangxi •
Float down Guilin’s Li River
and Yunnan through scenery that has
A Week in Sichuan inspired poets and painters
and Chongqing for centuries.
•
Stroll among limestone karst
peaks outside Yangshuo
Two Weeks on the Silk Road and browse the town’s
bustling night market.
•
Discover China’s ancient •
Relax under shady grape
•
Sip locally grown tea by
imperial capital, Xi’an, vines in Turpan, and the side of Kunming’s
see the Terracotta explore the atmospheric Green Lake, and explore
Army, and explore the ruins of Jiaohe and the city’s colonial past.
Muslim Quarter. Gaochang nearby. •
Marvel at the weird and
•
Visit the Buddhist caves •
Fill up on lamb kebabs, wonderful rock formations
hand-pulled noodles in Yunnan’s Stone Forest.
at Dunhuang and Maiji
Shan, their centuries- and fruit at Ürümqi’s •
Travel along the old Burma
old art preserved by street markets. Road to historic Dali, home
their inaccessibility. •
Explore the Grand of the Bai people.
•
Gaze west across the Mosque in Kuqa. •
Lose yourself in the cobbled
desert from Jiayuguan •
Wander through fabled streets of Lijiang Old Town, a
Fort, the last outpost Kashgar’s old town, UNESCO World Heritage Site.
along the Great Wall; and rub shoulders with •
Explore the villages in the
do not miss Xuanbi shoppers from across Lijiang valley and take a
Changcheng, a restored Central Asia at the cable car to the snow-capped
section of wall nearby. huge Sunday market. summit of Yulong Xue Shan.
A Week in Sichuan
and Chongqing
•
Get close to giant pandas at
Chengdu’s Panda Breeding
Center, and discover the
mysterious remains of a
3,000-year-old civilization at
the Sanxingdui Museum.
•
Visit the beautiful old village
of Huanglong Xi, and marvel
at the 230-ft (71-m) high
Buddha statue at Le Shan.
•
Relax at a historic teahouse
in Zigong, a salt-mining
town for over two millennia,
and discover the fascinating
Dazu grottoes.
Dafo, Le Shan
•
Watch the frenetic activity
This giant Tang-dynasty Buddha statue at Chongqing’s Chaotian
was sculpted out of the rock face over a Men docks and try the spicy
90-year period, completed in 803 AD, local cuisine.
making it one of the oldest and largest •
Cruise slowly down the
Buddha statues in China. mighty Yangzi River through
Dunhuang
the stunning scenery of the
Jiayuguan Three Gorges, stopping at
fascinating sights en route.
G A NS U
QIN G H A I
NI NGX I A
Lanzhou
ng
Hua
Xiahe Terracotta
Army
Maiji Shan
Xi’an HENAN
S HAANX I
Jiuzhai Gou
Huanglong
HUBEI
S ICH U AN CHONGQING
Yangzi
Dazu
Le Shan
kon
Emei Shan
Chongqing
g
Zigong
zi
Zhongdian
ng
Changsha
Ya
Longsheng
Dali Kunming Guilin
Ho
Stone Yangshuo
ng
YUNNAN Forest
shui
Li
GUANGX I
Yua Guangzhou
n
Me
Xi
kon
g
12 INTRODUCING CHINA
Day 2 Day 1
Two Days in Beijing Morning Head out to the Morning Begin on Jinmao
Summer Palace (pp106–8) on Tower’s 88th-floor observation
China’s capital, Beijing is the city’s northwest outskirts. deck (p195), with its fantastic
home to many fascinating This former imperial retreat is views. Walk south along the
sights, from the Forbidden beautifully landscaped; palaces Huangpu River (p201), then
City to the vibrant street and pavilions dot a wooded take a ferry across to the
life of the city’s hutongs. hillside that overlooks a series of Jinlingdong Lu Pier. A short
pretty lakes. Climb up Longevity walk through the old city
•
Arriving Beijing Capital,
Hill, soak up the scenery from leads to the Yu Gardens and
18 miles (30 km) northeast
the Long Corridor, and – if you Bazaar (pp198–9) and its
of central Beijing, is the main
visit in the summer – take a classical Chinese garden.
airport. Trains run frequently
boat out onto Kunming Lake.
to the city, 6am–10pm daily.
Afternoon Browse the shops of
•
Moving on Shanghai takes Afternoon Back in the city, Nanjing Road (p194) and explore
2 hours 30 minutes by plane, head to the Temple of Heaven the Bund (pp192–3), its gran-
or 5 hours by express train. (pp102–3), one of China’s largest diose buildings a reminder of
temple complexes, then go Shanghai’s fascinating past. End
shopping at Hong Qiao Market the day at a bar or restaurant on
Day 1 (p118). For eating out, pick a the Bund, overlooking Pudong’s
Morning Start in the heart of restaurant in Taikoo Li (p118). dramatic skyline.
the city at Qian Men (p90), on
the southern edge of Tian’an To extend your trip… Day 2
Men Square (pp88–9). Stroll Visit the Great Wall (p114). Morning Wander through
around the square, stopping at Head to Badaling, the most People’s Park (p194), a green
Mao’s Mausoleum (p88) to file popular section, 44 miles (70 space where locals gather each
past his glass casket. Continue km) away, or to less touristy day to exercise, gossip, or relax.
north and enter the confines Mutianyu, 56 miles (90 km) Spend the rest of the morning at
of the Forbidden City (pp92–5). northeast of the city center. the excellent Shanghai Museum
Allow at least 2 hours to explore (pp196–7). Allow at least 2 hours
this, the former imperial palace
and China’s most impressive
architectural complex.
to see the main exhibits, which beyond. Take the tram back to
include ceramics and classical its lower terminus, and walk
Chinese furniture through the Zoological and
Botanical Gardens (p317) to
Afternoon Stroll east from Central (p316), the financial
Shaanxi Road South metro heart of Hong Kong, for a dim
station through the French sum lunch in one of the area’s
Concession (p200), either along numerous restaurants.
Huaihai Dong Road, with its
shops, or negotiating the villa- Afternoon Walk through
lined streets to the south. Stop Sheung Wan’s Markets (p321)
at the leafy French-style Fuxing and along Hollywood Road
Park (p200) and the nearby Sun (p320) to the incense-filled
Yat-Sen Memorial Residence Man Mo Temple (p320), before
(p200). End the day with dinner taking the tram back to Central
in fashionable Xintiandi (p207). and catching the iconic Star Spectators at a show Macau’s ever-popular
Ferry (p321) to Tsim Sha Tsui hotel-casino The Venetian
To extend your trip… (p322) to watch the sunset from
Take the high-speed train to the waterfront. In the evening, heading south to the Cotai
Hangzhou (pp246–9) and head to Temple Street Market Strip to visit The Venetian
spend two days exploring (p323) to haggle over souvenirs. (p333), one of Macau’s most
West Lake and the tea- extravagant casino complexes,
growing area beyond. Day 2 complete with artificial canals
Morning Take the ferry to and Macanese gondoliers.
Macau, and explore the center Stay around for the evening
of this former Portuguese colony, to sample the local cuisine
starting from the Largo do and watch a show, explore
Senado (p333). Wander through the casinos, or visit Asia’s only
the cobbled streets to the greyhound racing venue, the
Ruinas de São Paulo (p332), a Canidrome (p338).
ruined cathedral originally built
by Jesuits. Then, climb up to the To extend your trip…
Macau Museum (p332) and the If you need a change of
battlements of the Fortaleza do pace, head to one of Hong
Monte (p332), refueling with Kong’s outlying islands.
delicious Portuguese egg tarts See Lantau’s Big Buddha
and coffee as you go. (pp330–31), dine on seafood
Trellised seating area in French-style in laidback Lamma (p330),
Fuxing Park, Shanghai Afternoon Explore the Barra or wander Cheung Chau’s
(p334) to see evidence of atmospheric lanes (p330).
Macau’s colonial past, before
Two Days in Hong Kong
Day 1
Morning Beat the crowds
and take the Peak Tram up to
the Peak (pp318–19) early in
the day, walking around the flat
Peak Circuit for breathtaking
views of Victoria Harbour and Tourists on Sky Terrace 428 at The Peak, the highest viewing platform in Hong Kong
14 INTRODUCING CHINA
A Week in Guangxi
and Yunnan
•
Airports Arrive at Guilin
Liangjiang airport, and
depart from Lijiang Sanyi.
•
Transportion Take a ferry
from Guilin to Yangshuo,
and a bus to return to Guilin
airport to catch a flight to
Kunming. Once in Yunnan,
it is possible to travel to
Dali and Lijiang by train
or bus, hiring a car and
driver for local excursions.
Alternatively, for greater
flexibility, you can hire View over the unusual landscape of the Stone Forest in Yunnan province
a car from Kunming.
Day 3: Kunming Day 5: Dali
•
Booking ahead Guilin:
Fly to Kunming (pp380–83), Once the capital of an ancient
Li River cruise.
one of China’s most relaxed independent kingdom, today
provincial capitals. Historically, Dali (pp392–3) is a picturesque
This itinerary focuses on two the city centered on Cui Hu small town with cobbled lanes
provinces in China’s exotic Gongyuan (p380), and today and stone houses. Wander the
southwest and combines many of the old buildings streets, take a boat trip on Er
the region’s most beautiful around the lake have been Hai (p394), or visit the San Ta
scenery with opportunities converted to quaint teahouses pagodas (p392) just outside Dali
to see fascinating ethnic and restaurants, making this a – the oldest tower dates to
minority cultures en route. great place to relax and sample around AD 800, when Dali was
one of Yunnan’s most famous still an independent kingdom.
Day 1: Guilin products, pu’er tea.
Renowned for its limestone Day 6: Lijiang
karst peaks, the landscape Day 4: Stone Forest Set against a stunning
around Guilin (pp420–21) The bizarre limestone pillars mountain backdrop, the
has inspired poets since the of the Stone Forest (pp384–5) labyrinthine Lijiang Old
6th century AD. While the best are the remains of a prehistoric Town (pp396–7) is one of the
scenery is south of the city, seabed that was eroded by most charming historic towns
Guilin itself is a pleasant place to the wind and rain into the in China. Climb to the highest
explore. Stroll along tree-lined peculiar shapes visible today. A point in Lijiang, Wan Gu Lou
Binjiang Lu, and see the remains visit to the Stone Forest can be (p398), for superb views across
of the city’s Ming-era moats at undertaken as a day trip from the roofs of the old town. Lijiang
Rong Hu and Shan Hu (p420). Kunming, but it is also possible is home to the Naxi minority,
to stay overnight at the site. and you will see plenty of
Day 2: Li River and Yangshuo evidence of their unique
The Li River Cruise (pp422–3) culture around the town.
is one of the highlights of a trip
to China – and for good reason. Day 7: Around Lijiang
Spend the day meandering Explore the beautiful valley
down the river through scenery around Lijiang. Drive out to the
that seems lifted straight out village of Baisha (p398) and on
of a Chinese scroll painting, to Yulong Xue Shan (p398),
with sheer-sided limestone cliffs the snow-capped peak that
emerging from the lush, rural dominates the valley. From here,
countryside. Finish the day in it is possible to take a cable car
the small but bustling town of to the glacier-covered summit.
Yangshuo (pp424–5).
To extend your trip…
To extend your trip… Continue north from Lijiang,
Drive to Longsheng (p426), hiking through the dramatic
56 miles (90 km) north of Tiger Leaping Gorge
Guilin, and stay overnight (pp400–1) and visiting the
at Ping An village, nestled ethnically Tibetan hill town
among terraced rice paddies. Maoniuping (Yak Meadow) cable car at of Zhongdian (p401).
Yulong Xue Shan mountain, Lijiang
For practical information on traveling around China, see pp614–19
DISCOVERING CHINA 15
A Week in Sichuan
and Chongqing
•
Airports Arrive at Chengdu
Shuangliu airport, and
depart from Yichang Sanxia.
•
Transportion The first part
of this tour is most easily
done by car, though there
are bus services along the
same route. The stretch from
Chongqing to Yichang is
covered by boat. Red panda relaxing at the Panda Breeding Center just outside of Chengdu
•
Booking ahead Chongqing:
Day 2: Huanglong Xi and longtime salt-mining town
Three Gorges Cruise.
Le Shan dotted with Qing-dynasty
The tiny historic village of guildhalls and temples.
This week-long itinerary Huanglong Xi (p374) is a Continue on to Dazu (pp362–3)
covers an area that is home popular film location and an and the Baoding Shan grottoes,
to giant pandas, dense interesting place to break the which house a collection of
bamboo forests, and mouth- journey from Chengdu to Le lively, realistic carvings dating
numbingly spicy food, as Shan. Carved in the 8th century, from the Tang dynasty.
well as many important the 230-ft (71-m) high Le Shan
historic sights. Buddha (pp370–71) watches Day 4: Chongqing
serenely over the treacherous Return to city life in Chongqing
Day 1: Chengdu confluence of three rivers. (pp356–7), a rapidly expanding
Sichuan’s provincial capital, Descend from his ears to his port on the banks of the Yangzi.
Chengdu (pp364–5) is large but toes on a steep staircase, or take Explore the historic sights in
pleasant, with an abundance of a boat ride along the river to the center, then try one of
excellent, if spicy, food. Work up view the statue from the water. Chongqing’s most famous
an appetite with a visit to the dishes, hotpot. Head to the
Panda Breeding Center (p366) To extend your trip… Chaotian Men docks (p356) to
in the city’s northeast, which Travel to the holy mountain board the Three Gorges cruise.
breeds both red and giant of Emei Shan (pp368–9),
pandas. Next, take a trip to the and spend two days hiking Days 5–7: Three Gorges
Sanxingdui Museum (p366), through the forests on the Cruise
full of exquisite archaeological mountain’s flanks, staying in During the three-day cruise from
finds unearthed nearby. monasteries en route. Chongqing through the Three
Gorges (pp358–60) to Yichang
To extend your trip… (p274), you can take in beautiful
Take a short flight north Day 3: Zigong and Dazu scenery and see the Three
to see the stunning scenery Drive through verdant Gorges Dam (pp274–5). Stops
of Huanglong (p375) and Sichuanese farmland – this depend on the type of cruise,
UNESCO World Heritage region is known as “China’s rice but a visit to the Mini Three
Site Jiuzhai Gou (p376). bowl” due to the four rice crops Gorges (p359) or Shennong Xi
each year – to Zigong (p361), a (p360) is highly recommended.
Tourist boats navigating the Mini Three Gorges along the Yangzi River
16 INTRODUCING CHINA
Days 7 and 8: Dunhuang is low on tourist attractions, but Days 13 and 14: Kashgar
A small oasis town, Dunhuang the parks, streets, and bazaars At the foot of the Pamirs,
(p498) has two major draws still provide plenty of interest. Kashgar (pp514–15) only
for visitors. Most famously, the became part of the Chinese
town is close to the Mogao To extend your trip… Empire in the 18th century, and
Caves (p501), a fabulous Surrounded by forested the different influences are very
collection of centuries-old cave mountains, Tian Chi (p510) clear. Try to arrive in time for the
paintings and statues that have offers a respite from north- Sunday market, when everything
survived thanks to Dunhuang’s west China’s arid landscape. from camels to Iranian saffron is
arid climate. Less well known is on sale and as many as 20,000
the stunning desert scenery just people descend on the city.
south of the town, at Mingsha Day 12: Kuqa While Kashgar Old Town has
Shan (p498), where sand dunes Until the 8th century, Kuqa been redeveloped, it still retains
several hundred feet high loom (p513) was a thriving center of plenty of charm, with the call to
over the edge of the oasis. Buddhist scholarship. The town prayer booming out from the
today is small and busy, and the Id Kah Mosque (p514) and the
Days 9 and 10: Turpan strongly Uighur western end of scent of roasting lamb filling
While modern-day Turpan town is a fascinating place to the air. Of the nearby sights,
(pp508–9) is a sleepy agricultural wander. It’s also worth making the Aba Khoja Mausoleum
town that produces the sweetest the effort to visit the ruins of (pp516–17) is the most
grapes in China, echoes of a more Subashi or the Thousand interesting and a beautiful
vibrant past can be found in the Buddha Caves (both p513), example of Islamic architecture
nearby ruins of Jiaohe (p508) both located outside the city. on the edge of China.
and Gaochang (p509), both of
which were abandoned to the
desert sands over 500 years ago.
Turpan is the hottest place in
China, so if you visit during the
summer, you may want to do
nothing more than sip cooling
drinks beneath the grape vines.
Ürümqi
Kuqa Turpan
R ESSWAY
Korla
Kashgar
XINJIANG
XP
E
Kargilik RT
Dunhuang
SE
DE
Charkhlik
RIM
Jiayuguan
Hotan GANSU
TA
Niya
Da Qaidam
Leh
QINGHAI
Golmud Xining
llow Ri ve r
Ngari
Gerze
C H I N A Ye
Amdo
Nagqu
TIBET Qamdo
Lucknow
Markam
Kathmandu
Kanpur
Thimphu
Gangtok
INDIA BHUTAN
Dibrugarh
Key R US S I A N
International airport F E DE R A T I ON
Expressway
n
A r gu
National Highway
Amur (Hei
lo n
Railroad g
Ji
an
International border Manzhouli g)
Provincial border
HEILONGJIANG
Disputed border
Qiqiha'er
Xingkai
Harbin Hu
JILIN
M O N G O L I A
Changchun Jilin
Xilinhot
Sainshand
INNER MONGOLIA Shenyang
LIAONING
Anshan NORTH
KOREA
Hohhot BEIJING
Baotou Datong BEIJING Bo
Tianjin Ha i Dalian
er
HEBEI TIANJIN
w Ri v
SO UT H
Shijiazhuang KOREA
o
Yinchuan
Yell
Taiyuan r
ve
Ri
SHANXI
llow
Jinan Qingdao
NINGXIA
Ye
SHANDONG Yel l ow
Lanzhou Sea
Xuzhou
Xi'an Luoyang Zhengzhou JIANGSU
HENAN
SHAANXI Huainan
i China Sea
Yua
gz Changsha
HUNAN
Yan
FUJIAN
JIANGXI
Fuzhou
Guiyang
GUIZHOU Guilin
Xiamen
T AIW AN
G U AN G XI GUANGDONG
Guangzhou
A PORTRAIT OF CHINA
Almost 40 years after the late Deng Xiaoping’s “reform and opening” policy
allowed foreign travelers back into China, the country remains largely as
mysterious to outsiders as it was in the 19th century, when gunboat diplomacy
by foreign superpowers forced the last tottering dynasty to open up the
country to foreign trade and exploration.
Drawn by this air of mystery, the number continues almost unchanged in whole
of visitors to China has been rising rapidly. swathes of the country beyond. Not far
Not one visitor will fail to be impressed by from the excitement and wealth of the
the splendor of China’s greatest sights. shiny, high-rise cities, water buffalo pull
The Great Wall has been completely the plow, and donkey carts are still a
rebuilt in parts in modern times, but its common form of transportation.
dizzying loops across the horizon still leave The success of the 2008 Beijing Olympics
most visitors lost for words. The Forbidden was a defining moment for China in terms
City, at the heart of Beijing, draws crowds of presenting the results of its economic
that make its original majesty hard to development to the world and proving
imagine, but the labyrinth of side passages its ability to host a huge global event. The
still leaves the more inquisitive visitor legacy of the Games was given added
spellbound. Although images of Xi’an’s poignancy by the global economy
Terracotta Warriors are familiar, nothing crashing just weeks after. In the years
prepares visitors for coming face to face since, China has emerged as a bona fide
with an army of thousands. While China’s commercial pillar, not just for Asia but for
incredible economic growth is clearly the world, and a geo-strategic player that
visible in the urban areas, rural life is on the brink of superpower status.
The Hong Kong rush hour – much the same as in any international metropolis
24 INTRODUCING CHINA
Under Threat
Pollution of the air, soil, and waterways
is threatening many of China’s delicate
environments, special animals, and plants,
especially when faced with large building
projects like the Three Gorges Dam. In addition,
the use of rare animals in medicinal “remedies”
means that many species face extinction from
poaching. However, the Chinese government is
now paying some attention to conservation Jungle
and reports that the giant panda, great crested Tropical forests occur in the deep south of
ibis, and Chinese alligator are all increasing in
China – mainly on the island of Hainan, and
numbers thanks to the protection of their
also the basins of southern Yunnan. Many forests
habitat and improved ecosystems. Nevertheless
there is still a long way to go. are secondary, or have been replaced through
felling and grazing by a kind of savanna or by
plantations, especially of rubber.
Hawksbill turtles
water buffalo (Eretmochelys
(Bubalus arnee) are imbricata) still
beasts of burden and breed on a few
used for plowing. They beaches along the
are at home in the southern tropical
muddy wet paddy coast, but are at risk
fields of the south. from humans.
30 INTRODUCING CHINA
China’s Peoples
There are about 55 different ethnic minorities in China, each
with their own distinctive customs, costumes and, in many
cases, languages. Though rich in culture, and varied,
together they make up only about eight percent of the
population, with the main group, known as Han Chinese,
accounting for the rest. Modernization of society and
intermarriage are inevitably leading to a dilution of these
differences, but many groups remain proud of their heritage
and retain their traditional beliefs and customs. Many have
Almost 1.5 million Kazakh
beautiful styles of dress (especially the women), and these
Muslims live in the north of
costumes and cultures have become a major attraction to Xinjiang province. Renowned
visitors, who bring trade to communities. for their horsemanship, the
Kazakhs center their lives
There are around around their precious horses
10 million Uighur, a and farming.
Muslim people with a
language close to KAZAKHSTAN
Turkish. They inhabit
Xinjiang province in
China’s far northwest.
Kazakh
M O N G
KYRGYZSTAN
Uighur
Kyrgyz
Northwest
A variety of mostly Islamic people
inhabit this area dominated by desert,
semi-desert, and mountains. The Uighur
are the dominant minority and have
their own Autonomous Region. Other
groups include the Hui, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz,
Uzbeks, Tajiks, and Tatars. Tibetan
BHUTAN
Bai people live mainly in Sichuan,
Naxi
Yunnan, Guizhou, and Hunan, and Lisu
number some 1.9 million. Bai
Their capital is Dali (Yunnan). Yi
Although traditionally farmers
and fishermen, their colorful MYANMAR Hani
Dai
costumes attract a lot of tourism.
L AO S
Northeast
As well as the Mongolians, there are a few
small groups of minorities in the northeast.
These include about 130,000 Daur as well as
the Oroqen, Hezhen, and Ewenki. There are
also around 2 million Koreans (Chaoxian),
while the largest group are the Manchu, with
about with about 9.8 million.
South
Qiang Tujia
She The largest minority in China is the Zhuang
EAST CHINA (16.9 million), who live mainly in their Autonomous
SEA
Region of Guangxi, famous for the dramatic
Miao
dragon-back rice terraces of Longsheng. They have
Dong
Bouyi linguistic and cultural links with the Dai who are
ethnically related to Thai peoples. Renowned for
Yao their crafts and colorful festivals (see pp412–15),
Zhuang the Miao (9.4 million) inhabit many areas in the
southern provinces.
VIETNAM SOUTH CHINA
SEA
0km 400
Li
0 miles 400
A Beautiful Script
Writing was elevated to an art form considered
on a par with painting as a visual aesthetic
(see pp44–5). As the process changed from
inscribing bone, brass, or stone to using a
brush on silk and paper, a more fluid writing
style became possible.
Styles of Calligraphy
Zhuanshu, or seal script,
was developed during the
Zhou era and used for
engraved inscriptions.
Chinese Literature
Dating back to the 6th century BC, the earliest Chinese texts
were primarily philosophical, such as the Confucian Analects
and Daoist Daode Jing. History as a literary genre was not
established until the Han period (206 BC–AD 220) with Sima
Qian’s Historical Records: thereafter each dynasty wrote a
history of the preceding one. As for the novel, a fully fledged
Chinese example did not appear until the Ming period
(1368–1644). The form and was developed during the Qing
dynasty until it was eventually stifled by Communism. Since
the 1980s, Chinese authors have been allowed greater
Confucius, author of the Analects,
freedom of expression, and in 2012 writer Mo Yan was and his disciples
awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature for his work.
Classics
Post-Qin dynasty, once Confucianism had
become the state orthodoxy, five early works
were canonized as the Five Classics: the Book
of Changes, Book of Documents, Book of Songs,
Spring and Autumn Annals, and Book of Ritual.
These books were established as the basis
for Chinese education.
Daoism
Strongly linked with early folk beliefs, Daoism incorporates the
traditional concepts of an ordered universe, yin and yang, and
directed energy, qi (see pp38–9). Over time, Daoism
developed into a complex religion with an extensive
pantheon. Daoist philosophy encourages follow-
ing one’s intuition and following the grain of the
universe by living in accordance with the Dao.
Daoist alchemists
Han Xiangzi, one of the aimed to find an elixir
Eight Immortals, a popular for eternal life, winning
group of Daoist adepts, is influence with
believed to have fallen emperors. Daoism
from a sacred peach tree, influenced scientific
which bestowed eternal development, and
life to him. He is usually contributed to the
shown playing a flute. discovery of gunpowder
in the 9th century.
Buddhism
In China, the Mahayana school of Buddhism, which promises
salvation to anyone who seeks it, is followed. Enlightened
ones, bodhisattvas, remain in this world to help enlighten
others. Through deeds and devotion believers gain merit and
maintain their connections with the bodhisattvas, bringing
them closer to nirvana.
The Laughing Buddha, or Milefo, is The Guardian King of the South (left)
an adaptation of the Maitreya, the is coiled by a snake; the King of the
Future Buddha. His large belly North holds a parasol. Kings of the
and laughing face are signs four directions guard the entrance to
of abundance and he is many temples, protecting the main
worshiped in the hope deity from evil influences.
of a happy, affluent life.
The Power of Qi
The Chinese philosophical notion of a cosmic qi, or breath
that permeates the universe, dates from the Shang and
Zhou periods. Qi is regarded as having created the cosmos
and the Earth, and given rise to the complementary
opposing negative and positive forces of yin and yang.
Every physical change that occurs in the world is seen as a
Chinese character for qi, resembling a
product of the working of qi. In the Daoist Daode Jing, qi is steaming bowl of rice
synonymous with Dao (“the Way”). The qi character (right)
represents a bowl of rice with steam, where the rice’s power
or qi is manifested, rising above. The concept of qi runs
through all areas of Chinese thought: it is a guiding
principle in both traditional science and the arts.
Harnessing Qi
Qi informs multiple practical and applied fields. When
Chinese medicine became formalized during the 2nd
century BC, for example, qi was established as its
central concept. It was seen as the vital substance of
living things, circulating in the body through a
network of channels or meridians (see p238).
Acupressure and
acupuncture rely on the
idea of qi circulating in
the body. A person may
suffer from inadequate
or excessive qi, and the
aim is to release or
dampen the qi as
appropriate.
Feng Shui
Chinese geomancy, or feng shui (“wind and
water”), is based on ideas of qi. Feng shui posits
that the appropriate layout of a building or
room, for example the position of doorways,
affects the flow of qi and hence the inhabitants’
general wellbeing.
A feng shui practitioner sets up a bagua chart and
other instruments to trace the flow of qi within an
office building. Feng shui is popular in Hong
Kong, where it is less frowned on
as a superstitious practice.
Yijing
The Chinese classic, the Yijing (I Ching),
or Book of Changes, has been consulted
as a divination guide book for thousands
of years. In it, the bagua are combined
The qian trigram, the into 64 hexagrams of six yin or yang
trigram in which yang qi is lines each. The hexagrams represent
strongest, consists of three even more complex states of qi than
unbroken lines. the bagua.
The yin-yang symbol repre-
sents the interdependency of yin
(negative) and yang (positive).
Architecture
For over 2,000 years, the Chinese have used the same
architectural model for both imperial and religious
buildings. This has three elements: a platform, post-
and-beam timber frames, and non-loadbearing walls.
Standard features of building complexes include a
front gate, four-sided enclosures or courtyards, and a
series of halls in a linear formation running north.
Most Chinese buildings were built of wood, but
because wooden buildings tend to catch fire, only a
few structures remain; the earliest date from the Tang
Aerial view of the Forbidden City, showing the
period (AD 618–907). traditional linear layout
Hall
In every context, the Chinese hall, or tang, follows the same pattern: a platform of rammed earth or
stone, and timber columns arranged in a grid. The front of the hall always has an odd number of
bays. Between the columns and beams are brackets
(dougong), cantilevers that support the structure,
allowing the eaves to overhang. The timber is brightly
painted, the roof aesthetically curved, and tiled
or thatched.
Standard Hall
Buildings in China conformed to a set of
rules about proportions. This uniform
architecture created a sense of identity –
useful in a large and disparate country.
Storied Building
The construction of tall
buildings relied heavily
on the dougong bracket.
A PORTRAIT OF CHINA 41
City Walls
Early defensive walls, like other early architectural forms, were made of earth – either pounded hard
by pestles or moistened to make a clay and pressed around
reed frames. Later walls were often built using brick. City
walls were traditionally square, with the main gate to the
south. The Chinese for “city” (cheng) also means “wall.”
Easy to defend
with a bow Gate tower,
often a
two-story lou
Architectural Details
It is interesting to interpret the architectural detail on Chinese buildings. The use of yellow tiles, for
example, was reserved for the emperor. The Nine-Dragon Screen, which occurs in the Forbidden
City and elsewhere, is also imperial since the dragon symbolizes the yang, or male principle, and by
extension the emperor.
Chiwen
Able to douse flames with Dougong
water, the Chiwen often A bracket (dougong) transmits the
appears at the end of a roof load from roof to column. It’s a
ridge (see p93) as a protection traditionally complex, nail-free, and
against fire. ornamental construction method.
42 INTRODUCING CHINA
Chinese Inventions
Printed books, porcelain, silk, umbrellas, and kites are just a
few of the everyday objects that originated in China and
are used today throughout the world. Remarkably, the
Chinese developed the technology to produce fine
porcelain over 1,000 years before Europe. Philosophy
played a part in two of the most famous Chinese
discoveries. Seeking the elixir of life, Daoist Wheelbarrow: used in
alchemists stumbled upon gunpowder, while the agriculture, industry, and by the
magnetic compass was developed from an instrument military. Like the plow, it vastly
increased the efficiency of
used for geomancy and feng shui.
manual workers.
2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
BC BC
2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
Printing
Porcelain: ceramic technology reached
a new peak in the 6th century with the The discovery of
discovery of “true” porcelain; hard, movable type did not
white, and translucent, it rings to the really have any impact
touch. Production methods would upon Chinese society,
stay a closely guarded secret, keeping and most printers
its value for export (see p260). continued to carve the
individual characters into
a block. In Europe 400
years later, however, the
discovery of movable
Printing: woodblock type revolutionized
printing was used to society. This is because it
spread Buddhist is much easier to handle
teachings, and was the 26 or so different
well-developed by blocks in a Roman
the time of the alphabet than it is to
Diamond Sutra (see handle the approximately
p32). In 1041–8, Bi 3,000 or more characters
Stirrup: this Sheng carved that are needed for a
increased the individual characters Chinese newspaper –
efficiency of on pieces of clay, without even allowing for
horses as tools for inventing movable duplicates. Woodblock
communication, block type. carving, therefore, required
transportation, far fewer resources.
and warfare.
200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000
AD AD
200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000
Paper money:
developed by
merchants as
certificates of
exchange. Lighter
than coins, bills
were soon
adopted by the
government.
Gunpowder: first
discovered by
necromancers. It was
originally used for
fireworks and mining
and not used for
warfare until the 8th
century.
Cargo ship: designed with
Seismometer: invented by Chang compartments, and equipped with
Heng. It identified the direction of an fore-and-aft lugsails and stern-post
earthquake when a ball fell rudders, these multi-masted ships
from one of the dragons into were larger and technically superior
a frog’s mouth. to their European counterparts.
Traditional Arts
The earliest Chinese artifacts were found in royal tombs. These
include bronzes, ceramics, and jades from the Shang and Zhou
period, as well as terracotta warriors from the Qin period. Of
the many rich art forms that subsequently developed in China,
painting and pottery are perhaps the most important, and
have reached the highest aesthetic level. Other significant art
forms include sculpture, notably the Buddhist sculpture of
western China. There are also many distinctive and popular
forms of Chinese decorative art.
Buddhist sculpture in the
Gandharan style
Ritual bronze
tripod from an
early royal tomb,
decorated with a
mythical animal
design known as
a taotie.
Pottery
After inventing porcelain, China developed
a huge range of potting, decorating, and
glazing techniques that were imitated from
Europe to Japan. Chinese ceramics led the
world in aesthetic taste and technique up
until the demise of the Qing dynasty.
Chinese Painting
Considered the highest traditional art form,
Chinese painting is executed on silk or paper
using a brush and inks or watercolors.
Religious painting
Landscape painting, associated with the scholar first appeared
class, reached a highpoint in the Northern Song along the Silk Road
and Yuan periods. Huang Gongwang (see below), with the arrival of
a master of the Yuan, was admired for his simple Buddhism from
calligraphic style. India. The Chinese
soon developed an
individual style.
Traditional Crafts
As well as the traditional high art forms of
painting and pottery, China has a wealth
of beautiful decorative arts. Delicate
carvings in lacquer, ivory, and jade are
Snuff bottles were produced in large popular, as are colorful cloisonné items,
numbers during the Qing period. decorated inksticks (or cakes), snuff bottles,
Made of glass, jade, mother-of- and fans.
pearl, or semiprecious stones,
they were delicately carved
or painted on
the inside in
exquisite detail.
Cloisonné is a style of
enameling. Individual metal
Lacquer carving is cloisons, usually made of
distinctive for its deep copper, are soldered together
red color and floral and inlaid with different
designs, and is often colored enamels. The object is
used on boxes. then fired and polished.
46 INTRODUCING CHINA
Modern Arts
The birth of modern art in China at the start of the 20th
century coincided with greater contact with the West.
Experiments with new materials and styles in the visual arts,
Western-style music, “spoken drama” (huaju), cinema, and
modern literary forms such as free verse all took root at this
time. However, after 1949, this creativity was stifled by
Soviet-influenced Socialist Realism. During the Cultural
Revolution many artists were even persecuted on the
grounds that their works were “reactionary.” Since the 1980s
and 1990s, however, there has been some liberalization in
The Canton TV Tower in
the arts and new, exciting forms have developed. Guangzhou (inaugurated in
2010) exemplifies the evolution
Shaven-headed of high-rise Chinese architecture
man since the late 1990s.
Modern Art
This painting, Series 2
No. 2, is by Fang Lijun,
leader of the Cynical
Realism school, which
came about as a
reaction to the demise
of the pro-democracy
movement in 1989.
Rejecting idealism,
these artists comment
on problems in China.
Sculpture entitled
Torso, by Zhan Wang,
a Shanghai-based
conceptual artist. Zhan
uses reflective steel
sheets to give the
illusion of solidity.
Chinese Cinema
From early classics such as Street Angel (1937),
made in the (then) foreign enclave of Shanghai,
Chinese cinema has scaled new heights of
international success, with the work of such
acclaimed directors as Zhang Yimou.
Farewell My Concubine
(1993), directed by Chen
Kaige, a post-Cultural
Revolution filmmaker, who
gave expression to new
moral uncertainties, is
set in the world of
traditional
Chinese
Opera. The Hong Kong film industry followed its own
path and became primarily famous for its action
movies. Renowned martial arts star Jackie Chan,
seen above in an early acting and directorial
debut, Fearless Hyena, made many films and
successfully crossed over from Hong Kong
to Hollywood.
Background is a hazy
blue, making it appear
dream-like
Anonymous figures
seem threatening
Ballet in contem-
porary China mixes
traditional Chinese
and Western
influences. Here, the
ballet version of Modern theater provides an expression of
Zhang Yimou’s film Chinese life in the 21st century. Here, a scene
Raise the Red Lantern from Toilet, a black comedy, is performed by the
is performed by National Theater company in Beijing. The play
members of the broke taboos with its frank portrayal of urban life
National Ballet. and treatment of homosexuality.
48 INTRODUCING CHINA
Festivals
An important part of Chinese culture and tradition, festivals
are generally happy and colorful affairs that reaffirm ancient
beliefs and customs. The biggest and most important festival is
Spring Festival, or Chinese New Year. This brings families
together for several days: the home is cleaned and everyone
dresses up in new clothes; decorations are put up and gifts
exchanged; and finally there is always time for a lively and noisy
carnival climaxing in a brilliant display of pyrotechnics. Nearly Hongbao
all the festival elements and rituals are geared towards bringing These decorative red envelopes
symbolize luck and wealth and
good luck and prosperity. In business, all debts should be
bring about both, as they
settled by Chinese New Year. Overall, the festivities last about contain money – they are
15 days but the whole country closes down for only three. typically given to children on
New Year’s Eve.
Lion Dance
Performed at New Year and other
festivals. Usually two people are
required to play the lion. The dance
demands more martial arts skills than
the Dragon Dance, also performed
on these occasions.
Fireworks exploding
over Hong Kong’s
Victoria Harbour
Drummers
At the Spring Festival,
processions of dancers
Firecrackers and drummers march
Strings of firecrackers are set off at over the New Year period
New Year, making the streets noisy up until the Lantern
and, potentially, dangerous places. Festival. Like the
Beijing tried to ban these in the center firecrackers, the noise
of the city supposedly driving people of the drumming
out to the suburbs for noisy fun. is supposed to keep
the evil spirits away.
A PORTRAIT OF CHINA 49
Festival Food
Each festival has its special food:
jiaozi (boiled dumplings) are
usually eaten for New Year,
especially in the north of China;
yuanxiao (glutinous rice balls)
feature during the Lantern A type of mooncake
Festival and can be made with a
sweet or savory filling; and zongzi
(sticky rice pyramids wrapped in
bamboo leaves) are served at the Traditional papercut of
Dragon Boat Festival. The Mid- an astrological chart
Autumn Festival, which falls on
a full moon, brings mooncakes.
Chinese Astrology
Each year is associated with one
Made to a thousand recipes with
of 12 animal signs, which
savory or sweet fillings, the cake
repeat in a cycle. At New Year
symbolizes the moon. Rice pyramids or zongzi
people talk of welcoming, for
example, the “Year of the Dog.”
In Chinese astrology, people
Spectacular Fireworks born under a specific animal
New Year would not be complete sign are supposed to have
without fireworks. Some major cities some of the characteristics
put on impressive all-night displays. attributed to the animal.
Fireworks were originally intended to
ward off evil spirits, or perhaps wake Monkey 2016 – associated
up the dragon who would create rain with fun and genius, as in the
story of the Monkey King.
in the coming year and guarantee a
good harvest. Rooster 2017 – has 5 virtues:
refinement, courage,
assertiveness, benevolence,
and reliability.
Dog 2018 – considered lucky
in Chinese mythology.
Pig 2019 – associated with
fertility and virility.
Rat 2020 – welcomed as a
clever protector and bringer
of wealth.
Colorful lanterns
Coinciding with the full moon, the Ox 2021 – Laozi, the Daoist
Lantern Festival marks the end of the philosopher, is often shown
two-week New Year period. Lanterns may sitting on an ox.
bear auspicious characters or be in Tiger 2022 – in China he is
animal shapes. deemed the king of the
animals.
Rabbit 2023 – associated with
longevity and believed to live
in the moon.
Dragon 2024 – symbol of
China, the emperor, and the
positive yang element (see
pp38–9).
Snake 2025 – an ancient
Tangerines ancestor, Fuxi, was thought to
A New Year symbol of luck, be half-human and half-snake.
tangerines are put on display at Duilian Horse 2026 – symbol
home – along with fresh flowers. These red scrolls at either side of of freedom.
The word for “tangerine” sounds the doorway bear Spring
like “luck” in Chinese while Couplets in classical Chinese Sheep 2027 – signifying
flowers signify a new beginning. expressing good wishes for the peace and creativity.
family in the coming year.
50 INTRODUCING CHINA
Qingdao International
Beer Festival (Aug) Held in the
eastern port city of Qingdao,
Shandong, home of Tsingtao
beer, brewed from the spring
waters of nearby Lao Shan
(see p152).
28/82
°C
16/61
14/57
10/50
2/36
0 -22/-8
-1/30 -11/12
7 9 7 6 Ürümqi
hrs hrs hrs hrs
38 18 43 15
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Key
Hot wet summer,
warm dry winter
Lanzhou
Warm summer, cool winter
Hot wet summer,
cool dry winter
Hot wet summer,
cool misty winter
Kunming
CHENGDU
LHASA 30/86
°C
22/72 20/72 21/69 KUNMING
°C 23/73 15/58
13/56
16/61 17/63 7/45 °C 24/75 24/86
14/57 0 20/68
7/45 17/63 15/59
1/34 1/34 -10/14 12/54
0 6 2 10 6 9/48
-10/14 2/36
hrs hrs hrs hrs 0
6 2 10 6
5 122 13 0
hrs hrs hrs hrs
mm mm mm mm 9 5 5 7
5 122 13 0 hrs hrs hrs hrs
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
mm mm mm mm
27 205 89 12
month Apr Jul Oct Jan mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
CHINA THROUGH THE YEAR 55
Average monthly
XI’AN
maximum
temperature 32/90 HARBIN
°C 22/72 20/68
20/68
Average monthly 28/82
°C
minimum 9/48
10/50 18/64
temperature 5/41 13/55
11/52
0
Freezing point -4/25
Harbin
BEIJING
32/90
°C 23/73 23/73
19/66 14/57
10/50 8/46
Beijing 1/34
0
Dalian
Datong
Tianjin
8 7 8 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs
17 243 16 4
Yellow mm mm mm mm
Sea
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Xi’an
Nanjing
Shanghai
Wuhan Hangzhou
Ningbo
SHANGHAI
32/90
Chongqing Nanchang
°C 23/73 23/73
Changsha East China 19/66 14/57
Sea 10/50 8/46
Guiyang
1/34
0
ce r
of Can
Tr o p i c 4 8 7 5
Guangzhou hrs hrs hrs hrs
0 miles 250
0
4 8 7 5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
THE HISTORY
OF CHINA
China boasts one of the longest single unified civilizations in the world.
Its history is characterized by dramatic shifts in power between rival factions,
periods of peace and prosperity when foreign ideas were assimilated and
absorbed, the disintegration of empire through corruption and political
subterfuge, and the cyclical rise of ambitious leaders to found each new empire.
First Settlers
From around 8000 BC, settlements offerings. Inscriptions on oracle bones
of populations based on a primitive provide the first evidence of writing,
agricultural economy began to emerge dating from around 1300 BC.
in the eastern coastal regions and along In 1066 BC, the Zhou seized power,
the rich river deltas of the Huang He establishing their western capital at
(Yellow River), the Yangzi, and the Wei. present-day Xi’an. The Western Zhou
These civilizations focused on hunting, initially sustained many of the
gathering, and fishing, and the cultivation traditions of the Shang, but later
of millet in the north and rice in the south. reorganized the political system, and
Each civilization is notable for its own replaced the use of oracle bones with
distinct style of pottery, such as the bold inscriptions on bronze and, later, writing
earthenware of the Yangshao (5000– on silk and strips of bamboo.
3000 BC) and the black ceramics of the The Eastern Zhou period (770–221 BC) is
Longshan (3000–1700 BC). divided into the Spring and Autumn period
(named for the annals written by Confucius,
Bronze Age China and the First 770–475 BC) and the Warring States period
Kingdoms (475–221 BC). The Eastern Zhou period saw
The first dynasty in China was founded the capital moved to Luoyi (now Luoyang,
by the Shang around 1600 BC. The Shang Henan province) and was dominated by
lived in large, complex societies and political conflict and social unrest as rival
were the first to mass-produce cast factions jockeyed for power. Some 25
bronze. Power centered on the ruling emperors reigned during its duration. It also
elite who acted as shamans of a sort, saw economic expansion and development
communicating with their ancestors and as the use of iron revolutionized agriculture.
gods through diviners. Elaborate bronze It was in this climate of unrest that the
food and wine vessels were used both for philosophical ideologies of Confucianism,
banqueting and for making ancestral Daoism, and Legalism (see p60) emerged.
Detail from The First Emperor of the Han Dynasty Entering Kuan Tung by Song painter Chao Po Chu
58 INTRODUCING CHINA
Shang Dynasty
Dynasty Timeline 1600–1050 BC
China was ruled by a succession The Shang dynasty marked
the emergence of Bronze
of dynasties, broken by periods of Age China and palace culture.
fragmentation and civil war. The emperor’s A semi-divine king acted as
authority was divinely granted through a shaman and communicated
with the gods.
a mandate of heaven and was thus
unlimited. Leaders of succeeding dynasties
claimed that the previous leadership had
displeased the gods and had therefore Bronze tripod food
vessel, Shang
had its heavenly mandate withdrawn.
Yuan Ming
1279–1368 1368–1644
Genghis Khan (1162–1227) Yesun Temur 1323–1328 Hongwu 1368–1398 Zhengde 1506–1521
united numerous Mongol- Tugh Temur 1328–1329, Jianwen 1399–1402 Jiajing 1522–1567
speaking tribes and 1329–1333 Yongle 1403–1424 Longqing 1567–1572
captured Beijing in 1215. Khoshila 1329 Hongxi 1425 Wanli 1573–1620
His grandson, Kublai, Toghon Temur 1333–1368 Xuande 1426–1435 Taichang 1620
completed the conquest Zhengtong 1436–1449 Tianqi 1621–1627
of China by finally defeating Jingtai 1450–1457 Chongzhen 1628–1644
the Southern Song in 1279. Tianshun 1457–1464
(Zhengtong restored)
Kublai Khan 1279–1294 Chenghua 1465–1487
Temur Oljeitu 1294–1307 Hongzhi 1488–1505
Khaishan 1308–1311
Ayurbarwada 1311–1320
Shidebala 1321–1323
THE HISTORY OF CHINA 59
Painting by
Emperor Huizong
Qing
1644–1911
Shunzhi 1644–1661
Kangxi 1661–1722
Yongzheng 1723–1735
Qianlong 1736–1795
Jiaqing 1796–1820
Daoguang 1821–1850
Xianfeng 1851–1861
Tongzhi 1862–1874
Guangxu 1875–1908
Xuantong (Pu Yi) 1909–1912
213 BC Burning of 206 BC–AD 9 c. 139–126 BC Official envoy Zhang Qian establishes c. 100 First
books as part of Western Han capital first diplomatic and trading links of Silk Road dictionary, Shuo Wen,
process of established at Bronze produced with more
“unification” Chang’an (Xi’an) AD 2 First known census: horse and than 9,000 characters
57,671,400 individuals rider, Han
200 BC 100 BC 1 AD 100
Sui emperors Yangdi and Wendi in a detail from Portraits of the 13 Emperors by Tang painter Yen Li Pen
Colossal Buddha at
190 Communications with 310 Massive 581–618 Sui dynasty,
Yungang Caves,
Central Asia are cut exodus of initiated by Wendi’s
Northern Wei
Chinese upper reunification of China
late 3rd c. Renewed interest classes to south
in Daoism
200 300 400 500 600
c. 7th C
220 Civil war 265–581 China divided 386–535 Northern Wei first c. 6th C
Woodblock
breaks out into Northern and of the ruling houses to First true
printing first
between the Southern dynasties adopt Buddhism porcelain
used in China
kingdoms of Wei, produced
Shu, and Wu
62 INTRODUCING CHINA
Foreign envoys,
including Koreans (the
figure on the right) and
Westerners (standing next
to the Korean), traveled to
the Tang court for
delegations and giving
tribute, as seen in this
tomb mural.
Emperor Xuanzong
(r. 712–56) or Minghuang,
the Brilliant Emperor, ruled
over a glorious period. A
great scholar and patron
of the arts, he poured
his wealth into temple
construction and founded
the Academy of Letters
(Hanlinyuan) in 754.
755–63 An Lushan
618–907 690–705 Empress rebellion drives 907–60 Period of 10th C
Tang Dynasty Wu Zetian rules emperor and court 806 Earliest dated division known as Gunpowder
heralds new as first empress from Chang’an printed manuscript, Five Dynasties and and firearms
golden age of China to Sichuan the Diamond Sutra Ten Kingdoms first used
1127–1279 Southern
960–1126 Northern Detail of Song dynasty with 1206–08
Song reunites China painting by capital at Hangzhou, 1154 First issue of Song and
and bases capital at Emperor after being forced paper money (Jin) Jin at war
Bianliang (Kaifeng) Huizong south by the Jin
The existing battlements of the Great Wall, reinforced and joined together during the Ming dynasty
of Yan, who controlled the region around reached as far as the east coast of Africa. In
Beijing, led an army against his nephew, 1514 Portuguese traders first landed in China,
taking Nanjing and proclaiming himself purchasing tea, which then became a
Emperor Yongle (“Eternal Joy”). Yongle fashionable drink in European society.
(r. 1403–24) moved the capital to his power Porcelain provided ballast for the ships, and
base in Beijing, where he created a new city other luxury items were brought back along
based on traditional principles of Chinese with the cargo. Trade was dominated by the
city planning. At its core lay the Forbidden Dutch in the 17th century, only to be
City (see pp92–5), the imperial palace and surpassed by the British a hundred years
offices of government, surrounded by later. Jesuit missionaries, who arrived in the
a grid system of streets, with four 16th century, claimed few converts
imperial altars at the cardinal but gained access to the emperor
points. The entire city was walled and the inner court.
to provide both protection and The arts thrived under the
enclosure. In 1421, Beijing became Xuande emperor (r. 1425–35), an
the official capital and would artist and poet, who patronized the
remain so until the present day. The arts, notably the porcelain industry
Great Wall was reinforced, extended and at Jingdezhen. In literature, the late Ming
faced with brick during the Ming dynasty. is noted for its great dramas and classical
By the 15th century, China had become novels, such as Journey to the West (see
a significant maritime power, its ships p35). Philosophy of the time reinforced
dwarfing those of contemporary Europe. the Neo-Confucianism of the Song.
Blue and white porcelain, silk, and The late Ming was dominated
other luxury items were in high Wedding jewelry, Ming by peasant uprisings, incursions by
demand in the foreign markets of Japanese pirates and Mongolian
Japan, Southeast Asia, and the Middle East. tribes, and excessive eunuch power.
Yongle sent six maritime expeditions under Rebellions within China eventually joined
the Muslim eunuch admiral Zheng He, which with external forces to end Ming rule.
1425–35 Xuande
emperor becomes 1514 Portuguese land in 1573–1620 Wanli reign 1620 The
first Ming emperor China, becoming the first begins well but dynasty Taichang emperor
to patronize the Europeans to trade in tea Gilt bronze declines as emperor takes poisoned by
arts extensively and porcelain bowl, Ming little interest in duties eunuchs
1644–1800 Military expansion 1723–35 Kangxi’s son Yin The Shunzhi emperor, r. 1644–61
into Central Asia and Siberia; Zhen seizes power, 1747 Qianlong builds Yuanming
colonization of new territories ruling under name of Yuan (see p109) in Western style
Yunnan and Xinjiang Emperor Yongzheng
1898 The
1796–1805 White 1816 Lord Amherst 1856–8 Arrow Guangxu emperor
1850–64
Lotus Rebellion leads British envoy War (Second imprisoned by
damages prestige and seeking to open Taiping Opium War) with 1900 Boxer
Empress Cixi
wealth of dynasty China to trade Rebellion Britain and France uprising
Gang of Four
The Gang of Four, as they became known, orchestrated
attacks on intellectuals and writers, high officials, the
party, and the state and were responsible for some of the
worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution. Zhang
Chunqiao, critic and propagandist; Yao Wenyuan, editor-
in-chief of Shanghai Liberation Army Daily; Wang
Hongwen, a young worker; and Mao’s third wife Jiang
Qing, an ex-film star, dominated the political center
unchallenged until Mao’s death in 1976. Millions of
Chinese citizens watched their televized trial in 1980–81.
Jiang Qing, who was singled out by propagandists and
became one of the most hated figures in China, was
defiant until the end, railing against her prosecutors
throughout the trial. She took her own life in 1991, while
serving her life sentence. Lynched effigies of members of the Gang of
Four hanging from a tree
72 INTRODUCING CHINA
Japanese Attack
Domestic turmoil laid China open to attack,
and in 1931 the Japanese occupied
Manchuria, founding the puppet state of
Manchukuo and placing the last Qing
Chiang Kai-shek (1887–1975), leader of the KMT emperor, Pu Yi, at its head (see p452). By
1937 the Japanese had occupied much of
Communists and Nationalists northern China, Shanghai, and the Yangzi
After the fall of the empire, the political valley, ruthlessly taking cities, wreaking
landscape changed dramatically and became death and devastation. The Japanese were
dominated by two forces, the Nationalist finally driven from Chinese soil in 1945, and
Party or Kuomintang (KMT) and the Commu- China was plunged into civil war.
nist Party, founded in 1921. The Nationalists
were led first by Sun Yat-sen from his power The East Is Red
base in Guangzhou, then by General By 1947, the Communist policy of land
Chiang Kai-shek who seized power in 1926. reform was reaping rewards and gaining
In 1923 the two Parties formed a “united the support of people in the countryside. In
front” against the warlords, but in 1926 the 1948–9, the Communists gained decisive
Communists were expelled from the KMT. victories over the KMT. On 1 October 1949
Chiang Kai-shek led his army to Nanjing Chairman Mao pronounced the founding
where he tried to establish a Nationalist of the People’s Republic of China in Beijing.
capital, and betrayed the Communist-led Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan, establishing
workers of Shanghai who were massacred a Nationalist government and taking with
by underworld gangsters. The Communists him many imperial treasures.
were driven underground and Mao Zedong
retreated to the countryside.
High in the mountains of Jiangxi
province, Mao and Zhu De founded
the Jiangxi Soviet in 1930. From this
inaccessible base, the Communists began
to redistribute land to the peasants and
institute new marriage laws. In 1934,
Chiang Kai-shek drove the Communists
from the area, forcing Mao to embark on
the legendary Long March (see pp262–3). Communist poster depicting Mao surrounded by the masses
1912 Abdication 1921 Founding of the 1945 End of 1958 Radical reform of the 1965 Mao
of Emperor Pu Yi Chinese Communist Party World War II; Great Leap Forward launches
marks the end of Japan defeated Cultural
Imperial China 1937 Japanese take much 1947 Civil war breaks Revolution
of northern China out in China
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1926 Chiang 1934 Mao leads the Red 1951–2 Rural co-ops
Kai-shek seizes Army on Long March established
leadership of 1949 Mao proclaims
National Party 1931 Japanese invasion
founding of People’s
of Manchuria
Last Emperor Pu Yi Republic of China
THE HISTORY OF CHINA 73
Little Red Book 1993 Jiang Zemin 2003 Chinese launch first manned spacecraft;
1976 Mao dies becomes president; Hu Jintao becomes president
construction of Three
1978 Deng Xiaoping 2008 Beijing hosts
Gorges Dam begins
emerges as leader the Olympics
Wutai Shan
3058m
Shenmu
River
Yuanping
o w
Yulin ell
Y
Yan’an Huozhou
Vividly painted cave interior at the
Yungang Caves, Datong, Shanxi Changzhi
Fuxian Jixian
Linfen
Yichuan
Luochuan Hejin
Li Shan
2322m Xinxiang
Tongchuan Jiaozuo
Yuncheng
Lanzhou S H A A N X I Sanmenxia
Weinan Zhengzhou
Luoyang
Baoji Lingbao
Xianyang Xi’an Songxian
Fengxian
Taibai Shan
3767m Shangzhou
HENAN
Shouyang
Shan Laojun Shan
Lüeyang 2720m 2192m Pingdingshan
Hanzhong Zhen’an
Shiquan Xixia
Ningqiang
Nanyang
Guangyuan
Zhenba Ziyang Ankang
Pingli
Key Xiangfan
Getting Around
Expressway
Beijing has good air, rail, and bus links to the surrounding
Main road
region. There are daily flights to Shanghai, Xi’an, Chengdu,
Chongqing, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Qingdao, Hangzhou, and Minor road
Hong Kong. Express trains link Beijing directly with all the Main railroad
region’s large cities, while many smaller towns are served by Other railroad
slower trains. Tianjin is a major north–south rail junction. Provincial border
There is also a comprehensive long-distance bus service,
Summit
while faster private buses ply the popular tourist routes.
Colorful pavilions in Bei Hai Park, Beijing
INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 77
Chifeng
Weichang
Guyuan
Fengning
Zhangbei
Chengde
Pingquan
Zhangjiakou BEIJING
Xuanhua Qinglong
Xinglong HEBEI, TIANJIN
Huailai BEIJING & SHANXI
SHI
Xiaowutai Shan Qinhuangdao
2882m SHANDONG
Beijing
Yuxian & HENAN
Tangshan
Zhuozhou
TIANJIN SHAANXI
Laiyuan SHI
Jinghai Tianjin
Baoding
Bohai
Wan Bo Hai
HEBEI Cangzhou
Shijiazhuang Botou Penglai
Yantai Weihai
Laizhou
Dongying Wan Rongcheng
Dezhou Binzhou
Laiyang
Shidao
Xingtai
Zibo Weifang Haiyang
Linqing Jinan
Handan Boshan
Liaocheng S H A N D O N G Qingdao
Anyang Tai’an
Zhucheng Jiaonan
r Suncun
ve Yishui
Ri Qufu
w Rizhao
llo
Ye
Jining Linyi Andongwei
Heze
Kaifeng Zaozhuang
Lianyungang
0 km 150
Shangqiu
Xuzhou
0 miles 150
Yongcheng
Zhoukou
Luohe
Bengbu
Queshan
Xixian
Huangchuan
Xinyang
Shangcheng Hefei
Wuhan
The imposing Great White Dagoba at Tayuan Si, Wutai Shan, Shanxi
For additional map symbols see back flap
78 BEIJING & THE NORTH
A PORTRAIT OF BEIJING
& THE NORTH
The Yellow River, the wellspring of Chinese culture and civilization, carves a
course through the country’s parched northern terrain, the historic homeland
of the Han Chinese and location of the most significant monuments. Thus most
visitors to the Middle Kingdom usually concentrate on these historic sites,
beginning with the nation’s capital, Beijing.
For millennia, the Yellow River (Huang He) Manchuria. Although the Great Wall
has nurtured the communities strung was built as a defensive fortification, it
along its banks while sporadically washing could not prevent the hordes of nomadic
away their settlements. The great river tribes, the so-called “barbarians,” from
flows through the provinces of Shaanxi, entering China.
Shanxi, Henan, and Shandong, often Neolithic finds and archeological sites
forming a natural boundary between wrote the province of Henan into the
provinces. It also features in the names earliest pages of Chinese history. Here,
of Henan (South of the River) and Hebei South of the Yellow River, Luoyang and
(North of the River). In its long and looping Kaifeng are two of the country’s most
journey it traverses a land rich in historic important dynastic capitals; another
sights and cities, before spilling into Bo Hai ancient city, Anyang, was capital of the
(Bo Sea), north of the sacred mountain, Tai Shang dynasty. However, it is Xi’an in
Shan. Occasionally, it comes across the Shaanxi province that is more eclipsed
vestiges of that other barrier, the Great by its past than any other ancient capital.
Wall. Now a largely disintegrating bastion, Xi’an’s most magnificent treasure is the
the wall crawls across the face of north Terracotta Army (see pp174–5), created to
China, a reminder of the region’s guard the tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi, the
vulnerable position so close to the border Qin emperor who unified China. However
with Inner Mongolia and erstwhile Xi’an reached its zenith during the Tang
The Tower of the Fragrance of the Buddha overlooking Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace, Beijing
INTRODUCING BEIJING & THE NORTH 79
dynasty (see pp62–3), prospering because industrialized but there are still many
of its position at the eastern end of the Silk sights that demand attention, such as
Road. The Grand Mosque and sizable the Buddhist monastery of Chongshan
Muslim population testify to Si (see p143), the holy mountain
Xi’an’s cosmopolitan grandeur Tai Shan, and the port of Tianjin,
during that time. Hebei’s former capital. Despite
Toward the end of the 13th modernization, Tianjin has
century, the Mongol Kublai preserved its European
Khan established Beijing as his architecture, a legacy of its
capital. But it was only in 1407, past as a foreign trading post.
when the Ming Emperor The Buddhist sculptures at the
Yongle moved his seat of UNESCO World Heritage Site of
power here, that Beijing the Longmen Caves in Luoyang
achieved imperial status. (see pp160–61) are remarkable,
Still organized along its grand Lighting incense sticks at while Shandong is best known
Ming and Qing dynasty lines, Beijing’s Lama Temple for Qufu, the birthplace of
it is a city of straight, wide Confucius (see p149), the eminent
boulevards and narrow, winding alleys philosopher-sage, whose teachings –
around an ancient palatial core, the which greatly influenced Chinese culture
Forbidden City. The temples and palaces – are acceptable once more.
are today complemented by slick
shopping streets and the commercial
buzz of a people coming into their
own in the 21st century.
The two adjoining provinces of
Hebei and Shanxi are griddles in
summer and iceboxes in winter,
although Hebei’s eastern seaboard
towns benefit from cooling sea
breezes. Shanxi, on the other hand,
is sometimes affected by seasonal
sand storms blowing in from the
Gobi Desert. Hebei’s fertile soil and
productive agrarian economy contrast
with landlocked Shanxi’s mineral-rich The kind of scenery that has inspired Chinese poets and artists for
terrain. Both provinces are heavily thousands of years, Hua Shan, Shaanxi
80 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Beijing Opera
One among many hundreds of local operas across China,
Beijing Opera began in the Qing dynasty. It is said that
Emperor Qianlong (r. 1736–96), on a tour of the south, was
rather taken by the operas of Anhui and Hebei and brought
these troupes back to Beijing, where a new form of opera
was established. The Guangxu emperor and Dowager
Empress Cixi were also keen devotees and helped develop
the art form. Beijing Opera has proved remarkably resilient,
surviving the persecution of actors and the banning of most
of the plays during the Cultural Revolution. Emperor Qianlong, credited with
starting Beijing Opera
Beijing Opera
Visually stunning and with a distinct
musical style, the plays are based on
Chinese history and literature. Beijing
Opera is a form of “total theater” with
singing, speech, mime, acrobatics, and
symbolic visual effects.
Monkey is one
of the favorite
characters – clever,
resourceful, and
brave. He appears
in Chinese classic
literature (see p35).
Musical Instruments
Despite the dramatic visual elements of Beijing Opera,
the Chinese say that they go to “listen” to opera, not to
see it. The importance of the musical elements should
not therefore be underestimated. Typically six or seven
instrumentalists accompany the opera. The stringed
instruments usually include the erhu or Chinese two-
stringed violin, sanxian or three-stringed lute, and moon Gong
guitar, or possibly pipa (traditional lute). The main function
of the instruments is to accompany the singing. Percussion
instruments include clappers, gongs, and drums. These are
used largely to punctuate the action; movement and sound
are intimately linked. Wind instruments also sometimes
feature, such as the Chinese horn, flute, and suona. Suona Pipa Erhu
Marinated, Steamed
roast duck pancakes
Lamb and Scallions: sliced Mongolian Hotpot: thinly Sweet and Sour Carp: the
lamb rapidly stir-fried with sliced lamb, vegetables, and quintessential Shandong dish
garlic, leeks or scallions, and noodles dipped in boiling water traditionally made with Yellow
sweet bean paste. and an array of sauces. River carp.
BEIJING & THE NORTH 85
BEIJING
The capital of the People’s Republic of China is one
of the world’s largest cities, with a population of
around 20 million. Beijing first became an imperial
capital during the Mongol Yuan dynasty (1279–
1368), and both the Ming and Qing emperors ruled
from the Forbidden City at its heart. Today, an all-pervading
spirit of change has added an exciting new dimension to the city.
AN LU
X U E Y UA N N
Exploring Beijing
DALIUSH
Beijing’s most significant sights and districts are
U LU
SI D A
DA HUIS I L U
OKO
AN LU GA
City, with Tian’an Men Square and Qian Men N N
Z H O NG GU ANC UN
U LU
OL
UA IA
EY NG
NAN D A JIE
QI
to the south, and the sprawling shopping district XU AO
M IN ZU
XIE
JIE
of Wangfujing to its east. North of the Forbidden Beijing North
ZIZ Train Station
City stand the Drum and Bell Towers and farther
X I S A NH U A N B E I L U
HU BEIJING
YUA ZOO
N LU XIZHI MEN WA
northeast is the Buddhist Lama Temple. North I DAJIE Xizhi Men
Bus Terminal
N WAI Beijing
of Beihai Park, Prince Kung's Mansion stands in X I ZH I ME JIE Zoo
BEILISHI LU
NAN
Z HAN L A N G U A N LU
riddle the city. To the south, Tian Tan, known as
the Temple of Heaven, is a majestic example of B A I WA N Z H UA N G DAJIE
Ming dynasty architectural design. Beijing’s
environs are also dotted with impressive sites FUCHENG LU
F U C H E N G M E N WAI DAJIE
including the magnificent Great Wall and the
SA N L I H E L U
scenic Ming Tombs. YUYUAN TAN PARK
Y U E TA N B E I JI E
Yuyuan Tan
Y UETA N
DONGLU
ISHI LU
X I J IE
(SONG
QINGLING Y U E TA N
NANL
NAN
Greater Beijing CHILDREN'S
SCIENCE PARK)
JIE
LIHE
SAN
Junshi Bowuguan Muxidi Nanlishi
F U XI N G LU Lu
Miyun F UXI N G M E N
Hu
W A I D A J IE
X IB I A N M E N
WA I D A J I E
Miyun
Huairou
Changping LIANHUACHI
BEIJING SHI
Beijing
D AJ I E
International Airport
Mentougou
GUANG'AN
Tongxian HEBEI
Liangxiang 0 km 20
Daxing 0 miles 20
Tianjin
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Sites, & Museums & Galleries k White Tower Temple
Neighborhoods c Great Bell Temple
2 National Museum of China
1 Tian’an Men Square pp88–9 . Tanzhe Temple
5 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall
3 Qian Men u National Art Museum of China Shops & Markets
4 Underground City p Southeast Corner Watchtower
i Wangfujing Street
6 Dazhalan and Liulichang a Beijing Natural History Museum
8 Forbidden City pp92–5 d Capital Museum Parks & Zoos
q Prince Kung's Mansion j Military Museum of the
9 Jing Shan Park
w Drum and Bell Towers Chinese People’s Revolution 0 Bei Hai Park
o Ancient Observatory
Temples, Churches, & Mosques t Di Tan Park
z Summer Palace pp106–8
l Beijing Zoo
x Yuanming Yuan 7 South Cathedral
v Xiang Shan Park
b Ming Tombs pp110–11 e Lama Temple
n Great Wall of China pp112–15 r Confucius Temple
m Eastern Qing Tombs y Dong Yue Miao
, Marco Polo Bridge s Temple of Heaven pp102–3
/ Peking Man Site f Cow Street Mosque
! National Olympic Stadium g Fayuan Temple
@ Chuandixia h White Clouds Temple
BEIJING 87
D X I Z H I ME N B E I D A J I E
E P I N GLI XI JIE
W E NH U I YU A N LU XINJIEKOU BEI DAJIE DI TAN
PARK
Anding H
Jishuitan Men Yonghe Gong
DE S H E N G ME N ANDING MEN DONG
IE
DAJ DO N G D A J I E XI DAJIE BE
B E I X I AO J I E
ZHI MIEEN
Gulou
Y O N G H E G O N G DAJ I E
EN
D E S H ENG M E N N E I D A J I E
BEI LUOGU
ID
GM Dajie
X I AN G
HEN
AJ
DAJIE
G U OZI
J I U G U LO U
ES Hou
DAJIE
J I AN
Hai Beixinqiao Dong Zhi
Xizhi XIZ H I M E N N E I D AJIE Men
Dong Zhi Men
NAN DAJIE
Men
X I N J IE K O U
GU LO U D O NG DA J I E
LIUYIN
Bus Terminal
NAN LUOGU
DI' A N M E N W A I
X I Z H I M EN
N A N D AJIE
Jie Kou
XIANG
DAJIE
Qian
NAN DAJIE
JIE
TI Y U CH A N G D O N G L U
Zhangzi Zhong Lu Shi Tiao
E
D I ' A N M E N X I D AJ IE
XI H UAN G C H E N G G E N
ZHANGZI DO N G S I S H I T I AO
XISI BEI DAJIE
DONG DAJIE
X IS H I KU D AJ IE
ZHONG LU
GONGREN
Chegong
BEI DAJIE
DONG SI
BEI JIE
IA
Zhuang
G Q
D O NG S I
Bei Hai L I U T I AO
IP I N
Chaoyang
TA
Xi Si Men
FUCHENG MEN NEI Dong Si
DAJIE JING SHA N G W U SI D O N G S I C
XI' A N M E N W EN
JIN J I E QIAN JIE D A J IE X I D A J IE HAODYAN G MEN NEI
R I TA N LU C HAO W A I S H I -
XIDAN BEI DAJIE
AJ IE
CHAOYANG MEN
Fucheng Men
N A N D A JI E
DAJIE
CH A N G JI E
WAN GFU J I N G
D A J IE
DONG SI
FUC H E N G M E N
B E I C H A N G J IE
NAN DAJIE
FUYOU JIE
C H AO YA N G M E N
N A N X I AO J I E
DAJI E
NA N D A J I E
WUDIN G F E N G S H E NG
HUTONG HU T O N G
B E I CHIZ I
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Zhong
D A JI
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Dengshikou
PICAI HUTON G LINGJ I NG
DONGDAN
BEI DAJIE
HUTONG RI TAN
JIN BAO JIE
TA I P I N G Q I AO
JINRONE JIE
PARK
Lingjing
Hutong Nan Hai Tian'an D ONG ZO N G BU
G UA N G HU A LU
Men
XUA
X IN WE NH U A JI E X I RON G X I A N
Changchun Jie HUTONG Qian Men Beijing Zhan B E I J I N G Z HA N
Tour D O N G JIE
Heping Bus Terminal Bus Station
W
N
LO N G J I E
LA
OQ JIE
QIAN MEN
IANG Ciqikou
AN
J I E G EN AL
ZH DON G
DA HIKOU
DAJIE
Caishi D AJIE
Kou ZHUS
MEN NEI OU
DAJIE L U OM A S H I Z H U S H I KJ I E
HU F A N G L U
DAJIE XI DA
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T I A N TA N L
U 0 km 1
YONG'AN LU
YONGDING M E N N E I
G BEI WEI LU
ZIXIN LU
X I JI E JIE
Tianqiao
T I A N TA N D O N G L U
DAJIE
T AI P I N G JI E
B AI Z H I F A N G TAO R A N T I N
G LU
DO NG JI E
Taoranting
Hu Tian Tan
Dong Men
DO N G BINHE L U Y O NG DI NG M EN DONG B I N H E L U
YOU'A N MEN
Getting Around
A system of ring roads encircles the city
center, and the best way to explore this
Key area is by taxi, by subway, or by bicycle
National expressway (see pp620–21). The bus service, though
Main road extensive, is generally slow and
overcrowded. Organized tours are another
Provincial border
option for a quick overview of the sights.
Great Wall of China Most hotels and agencies operate tour
buses for visiting sights outside Beijing,
although hiring a taxi for the day allows
for greater flexibility.
For additional map symbols see back flap
88 BEIJING & THE NORTH
. Zhengyang Men
Along with the Arrow Tower this tower
formed a double gate known as the Qian
Men. It now houses a museum on the
history of Beijing.
. Mao’s Mausoleum
Flanked by revolutionary statues, the building
contains the embalmed body of Chairman
Mao. His casket, raised from its refrigerated
chamber, is on view mornings and afternoons..
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 89
. Tian’an Men
Mao proclaimed the
founding of the People’s
Republic of China on BEIJING
October 1, 1949 from this
Ming dynasty gate,
Tian’an Men
where his huge portrait Square
still remains.
Locator Map
See Beijing Street Finder Map 3
0 meters 20
0 yards 20
lowered at dusk
H
A
every day.
N
G
´A
N
J
IE
P Zhengyang Men
Tel (010) 6522 9386. Open daily. &
4 Underground City
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 91
8 Forbidden City
Forming the very heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City, officially
known as the Palace Museum (Gugong), is China’s most
magnificent architectural complex. Completed in 1420, the
huge palace is a compendium of imperial architecture and
a lasting monument of dynastic China from which 24
emperors ruled for nearly 500 years. The symbolic center of the
Chinese universe, the palace was the exclusive domain of the
imperial court and dignitaries until the abdication in 1912. Chinese Lions
It was opened to the public in 1949. The complex has a one- Pairs of lions guard the entrances
way south–north entry system and is now entered only via of halls. The male is portrayed
with a ball under his paw, while
the Meridian Gate and exited via the Gate of Divine Prowess.
the female has a lion cub.
. Golden Water
Five marble bridges,
symbolizing the five cardinal
virtues of Confucianism, cross
the Golden Water, which flows
from west to east in a course
designed to resemble the jade
belt worn by officials.
Outer Court
At the center of the
Forbidden City, the
Outer Court is easily
its most impressive
part. Most of the
other buildings in the
complex were there
to service this city
within a city.
Transportation
q Tian’an Men Dong.
KEY
P Eastern Palaces
On the east side of the Inner
Court lies a much closer-knit
The Pavilion of a Thousand Autumns in the Imperial Gardens series of smaller palaces and
courtyards formerly used as
P The Inner Court P The Imperial Gardens the residences of imperial
Beyond the Hall of Preserving The Imperial Flower Garden, concubines. Nowadays, some
Harmony (Outer Court) lies a north of the three inner palaces of these areas serve as museums
large but narrow courtyard with and the Gate of Earthly of jade, paintings, enamels, and
gates leading to the open areas Tranquillity, dates from the antique collectibles, including
east and west of the Outer reign of the Ming Yongle the impressive Clock Exhibition
Court and a main gate, the Gate emperor. It is symmetrically laid Hall (housed in the Palace of
of Heavenly Purity, leading to out with pavilions, temples, and Eternal Harmony) with its
the Inner Court. Here lie three
splendid palaces, mirroring
those of the Outer Court but
on a smaller scale. The double-
eaved Palace of Heavenly
Purity was used as the imperial
sleeping quarters and for the
reception of officials. It was here
that the last Ming emperor,
Chongzhen, wrote his final
missive in red ink, before
getting drunk, killing his
15-year-old daughter and his
concubines, and then hanging Imperial five-clawed dragons on a glazed Nine Dragon Screen
himself on Jing Shan (see p96),
just north of the palace, as Chinese Dragons
peasant rebels swarmed The Chinese dragon is a curious hybrid of sometimes many animal
through the capital. Beyond lie parts – snake’s body, deer horns, bull’s ears, hawk’s claws, and fish
the Hall of Union, used as a scales. Endowed with magical characteristics, it can fly, swim, change
throne room by the empress, into other animals, bring rainfall, and ward off evil spirits. The five-
and the Palace of Earthly clawed dragon represented the power of the emperor, and therefore
Tranquillity, the living quarters could only adorn his imperial buildings. The Chinese dragon is a
of the Ming empresses. During beneficent beast offering protection and good luck, hence its
the Qing dynasty, the hall was depiction on screens and marble carriageways, and its significance,
used for Manchurian shaman even today, in festivals such as Chinese New Year.
rites, including animal sacrifice.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 95
0 meters 300
0 yards 300
Key
Imperial buildings
Area illustrated (see pp92–3)
q Prince Kung’s
Mansion
The open
courtyard lets
in both the
sunlight and the
wind and cold.
e Lama Temple
a Beijing Natural
History Museum
s Temple of Heaven
Completed during the Ming dynasty, the Temple of
Heaven, more correctly known as Tian Tan, is one of the
largest temple complexes in China and a paradigm of
Chinese architectural balance and symbolism. Now a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was here that the emperor
would make sacrifices and pray to heaven and his
ancestors at the winter solstice. As the Son of Heaven, the
emperor could intercede with the gods, represented by
their spirit tablets, on behalf of his people and pray for a
good harvest. Off-limits to the common people during the
Ming and Qing dynasties, the Temple of Heaven is situated Qinian Dian, where the emperor prayed
in a large and pleasant park that now attracts early for a good harvest
morning practitioners of tai ji quan (see p279).
Qinian Dian
Originally built in 1420, the
Qinian Dian, or Hall of Prayer
for Good Harvests, is often
incorrectly called the Temple of
Heaven. There is in fact no single
temple building as such at Tian
Tan, a more literal translation
Key The Round Altar, site of the emperor’s of which is Altar of Heaven –
Area illustrated sacrifice referring to the whole complex.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 103
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Tian Tan Dong Lu (East Gate),
Chongwen. Map 4 E4. Tel (010)
6702 5289. Open 6am–8pm, last
entry 5:30. Temple Buildings: Open
8:30am–8pm. & 9 = -
∑ tiantanpark.com
Transportation
q Tian Tan Dong Men. @ 34, 6, 35
. Caisson Ceiling
The splendid circular caisson ceiling
has a gilded dragon and phoenix at
its center. The hall is built entirely of
wood without using a single nail.
KEY
f Cow Street
Mosque
j Military Museum
of the Chinese Buddhist monks, White Tower Temple
People’s Revolution
tanks, and surface-to-air when Beijing was under Mongol
missiles. The top gallery rule. In addition to its conven-
9 Fuxing Lu, Haidian. q Military chronicles with pride many tional Drum and Bell Towers,
Museum. Tel (010) 6686 6244. of China’s military campaigns. Hall of Heavenly Kings, and
Open 8am–5pm daily. ∑ jb.mil.cn Main Halls, this Buddhist temple
has a remarkable collection of
k White Tower
Topped by a gilded emblem of small Tibetan Buddhist statues
the People’s Liberation Army, Temple in one of its halls. Another hall
the Military Museum of the has a collection of 18 bronze
Chinese People’s Revolution is luohan (disciples).
Fucheng Men Nei Dajie, Xicheng. Map
devoted to weaponry and
1 A4. q Fucheng Men. Tel (010) 6616
revolutionary heroism. It is close 0211. Open 9:30am–4pm daily. &
to Muxidi, where the People’s l Beijing Zoo
Liberation Army killed scores of Celebrated for its distinctive
civilians in 1989. Visitors are Tibetan-styled, 167-ft (51-m) 137 Xizhi Men Wai Dajie, Haidian. q
greeted by paintings of Mao, white dagoba (stupa or funerary Xizhi Men, then taxi. Tel (010) 6831
Marx, Lenin, and Stalin. The mound) designed by a Nepalese 4411. Open 7:30am–5pm (to 6pm
ground floor exhibits defunct architect, the White Tower spring & summer). & extra to see
F-5 and F-7 jet fighter planes, Temple (Bai Ta Si) dates to 1271, pandas.
z Summer Palace
The sprawling grounds of the Summer Palace (Yihe Yuan)
served the Qing dynasty as an imperial retreat from the
stifling summer confines of the Forbidden City. Despite
existing as an imperial park in earlier dynasties, it was not
until the time of Emperor Qianlong, who reigned from 1736
to 1795, that the Summer Palace assumed its current layout.
The palace is most associated, however, with Cixi, who had it
rebuilt twice: once following its destruction by French and
English troops in 1860, and again in 1902 after it was . Longevity Hill
plundered during the Boxer Rebellion. The Tower of the Fragrance of
the Buddha dominates this
slope covered with impressive
religious buildings.
Marble Boat
Cixi paid for this extravagant
folly with funds meant for the
modernization of the Imperial Navy.
The superstructure of the boat is
made of wood painted white to
look like marble.
Plan of Grounds
The grounds of the Summer
Palace cover 716 acres (290
hectares), with Kunming KEY
Lake lying to the south of
Kunming Lake Longevity Hill. South Lake 1 The Bronze Pavilion, weighing
Island is just off the east 207 tons (188 tonnes), is a detailed
shore and a stroll around the replica of a timber-framed building.
West Lake entire shoreline takes about 2 Boat pier
2 hours.
South
3 Temple of the Sea of Wisdom
Lake
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 107
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Empress Dowager Cixi
Together with Tang-dynasty Empress Wu Practical Information
Zetian (see p63), Cixi is remembered as one 6 miles (10 km) NW of Beijing.
of China’s most powerful women. Having Tel (010) 6288 1144. Open Apr–
borne the Xianfeng emperor’s son as an Oct: 6:30am–6pm, Nov–Mar:
imperial concubine, Cixi later seized power 7am–5pm. & = -
as regent to both the Tongzhi and and ∑ summerpalace-china.com
Guangxu emperors (her son and nephew
Transportation
respectively). Cixi prevented Guangxu q Beigongmen. 4 from Yuyuan
from implementing state reforms and, in
Tan Park, and Exhibition Center near
her alliance with the Boxer Rebellion,
zoo (not in winter or bad weather).
paved the way for the fall of the Qing
Empress Cixi, 1835–1908 Dynasty in 1911.
Hall of Benevolence
. Long Corridor and Longevity
The beams along the length The principal ceremonial
of this 2,388-ft (728-m) hall, this single-eaved
walkway are decorated with building houses the throne
over 14,000 scenic paintings. upon which Cixi sat.
108 BEIJING & THE NORTH
0 kilometers 4
PAILOU
(ARCHWAY) 0 miles 4
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 111
Cedar Columns
Supporting the huge weight
of the roof, the colossal 43-ft (13-
m) nanmu (fragrant cedar)
columns are topped with elaborate
dougong bracket sets.
KEY
The central chamber
1 The Stele Pavilion bears contains three marble
inscriptions dating from the Qing thrones, one for each
dynasty which revered the Ming of the dead.
emperors.
2 Gate of Eminent Favor
3 The Spirit Tower marks the
entrance to the burial chamber. The coffin
chamber held Outer Chamber
4 An earthen mound, surrounded the red lacquer
by a circular rampart, covers the coffins of Wanli and his
stone burial chamber. two wives. Exit (via Spirit Tower)
112 BEIJING & THE NORTH
. Panoramic Views
Because the wall took
advantage of the natural terrain
for defensive purposes,
following the highest points
and clinging to ridges, it now
offers superb panoramic views.
Reconstruction of
the Great Wall
This shows a section
of the wall as built by
the most prolific wall
builders, the Ming
dynasty (1368–1644).
The section at
Badaling, built around
1505, is similar to this
and was restored in
the 1950s and 1980s.
KEY
1 Large, locally quarried rocks defending soldiers to fire down
on their attackers with impunity.
2 Kiln-fired bricks, cemented
with a mortar of lime and 7 Signal beacons were used to
glutinous rice warn of attack by burning dried
wolf dung.
3 Bigger rocks and stones
8 Towers were spaced two
4 Tamped layer of earth and
arrow shots apart to leave no part
rubble
unprotected. . Watchtowers
5 Surface of stone slabs and A Ming addition, these
9 The carriageway is on
bricks served as signal towers,
average (26 ft) 8 m high and
6 Ramparts enabled the (21ft) 7m wide.
forts, living quarters, and
storerooms for provisions.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–63 and pp572–85
BEIJING 113
Multi-Function Wall
The wall enabled speedy communications
via smoke, flares, drums, and bells, as well as
allowing for the rapid transportation of
troops across the country.
TAIYUAN TIANJIN
Bo Hai
Qinghai
Lake
Yellow Sea
LANZHOU
0 kilometers 400
P Mutianyu
56 miles (90 km) North of Beijing, Ruins at Huanghua Cheng clinging to the
Mutianyu town, Huairou county. steep hillside
@ 6 from Xuanwu Men. 916 or
936 from Dongzhimen then taxi or left-hand section is more difficult
minibus. Open summer: 7am–6:30pm to reach. Devoid of guardrails, the
daily; winter: 7:30am–5:30pm. & crumbling masonry at Huanghua
plus chair lifts and slideway.
Cheng can be uneven and fairly
The appeal of Mutianyu lies in treacherous in parts, so be careful.
its dramatic hilly setting and This is the best option for
slightly less intrusive tourist accommodation if you want to
industry. With a series of watch- stay near the Great Wall.
towers along its restored length,
the wall you can see here dates P Simatai
from 1368 and was built upon 68 miles (110 km) NE of Beijing, Miyun
the foundations of the wall built county. @ 980 from Beijing to Miyun
Stall selling tourist paraphernalia at the during the Northern Qi dynasty Gulou, then 51 to Simatai/Wtown. Tel
Great Wall, Badaling (AD 550–77). (010) 8100 9999. Open 9am–5pm
daily. & (closed if windy).
∑ wtown.com
P Badaling P Huanghua Cheng
44 miles (70 km) NW of Beijing. Tel 37 miles (60 km) North of Beijing, The wall at Simatai has been
(010) 6912 1737. @ 1 from Qian Men. Huairou county. @ 916 from Dong- renovated, offering a more
Open 6:30am–6:30pm daily. & zhimen then taxi or minibus. genuine impression of the
=- Open 8am–5pm daily. & original wall, though only the ten
Equipped with guardrails, cable Situated on the same stretch of towers to the east of the town
car, pristine watchtowers, and wall as Mutianyu, Huanghua is an are currently open to the public
tourist facilities, the restored exhilarating section of Ming wall and only with prior reservation
Ming fortification at Badaling is that is far less developed than via the website unless visitors
the most popular section of the other parts of the wall, although buy a combination ticket for the
Great Wall. The reward for it has still been renovated. The town as well. The town has also
coming to Badaling is the great barrier is split into two here been redeveloped as Beijing
breathtaking view of the wall by a large reservoir; most travelers Wtown with historical exhibitions,
winding its way over the hills. To take the right-hand route on the hotels, shops, and restaurants in
fully appreciate this, get away other side of the reservoir, as the its restored streets and courtyards.
from the crowds by walking as
far as you can along the wall
either east or west of the
entrance. The ticket includes
admission to the Great Wall
Museum. The pass at Juyong
Guan is on the way to Badaling
and although restored, it is often
quieter than Badaling. With
unscalable mountains on either
side it is easy to see why this spot
was chosen for defense. There
are also some authentic Buddhist
carvings on a stone platform, or
“cloud terrace,” in the middle of
the pass that date back to the
Yuan dynasty (1279–1368). The restored section of the wall at Badaling, northwest of Beijing
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p558 and pp572–3
BEIJING 115
m Eastern Qing
Tombs
Emperor Yongzheng
The son of the Kangxi emperor and a maidservant, Yongzheng
(r. 1723–35) chose not to be buried at the Eastern Qing Tombs,
but perversely started a necropolis as far away as possible in
the Western Qing Tombs (Yixian county, Hebei province).
Perhaps, racked with guilt, he could not face burial alongside
his father, whose will he had thwarted. For after Kangxi’s death,
Yongzheng seized the throne from his brother (his father’s
chosen successor), and declared himself the legitimate heir,
ruthlessly eliminating any other brothers and uncles who may
have been a threat to his rule. Despite this shaky start,
Yongzheng was an able ruler and a devout Buddhist,
punishing dishonesty among his officials and seeking to
improve the morals and education of his people. Another
possible reason for the switch was that he just wasn’t satisfied
with the Eastern Tombs and chose an area with a better
natural setting. Whatever the reason, those keen on Chinese
tomb architecture will enjoy the peace of the Western Qing
Tombs. Nearby, moved in 1995 to a commercial cemetery, Yongzheng in robes embroidered with symbols
are the remains of Pu Yi, the last emperor of China. of his power
116 BEIJING & THE NORTH
. Tanzhe Temple
show movies (either in English months, there are evening featuring opera and acrobatics
or with subtitles). There is a shows in the marvellous take place at the Laoshe
good cinema at Taikoo Li in Prince Kung’s Mansion (see Teahouse throughout the
Sanlitun. All European and p96) at 7:30pm. Visitors who afternoon and evenings. For
Hollywood films are pirated on are part of tour groups are something more exciting, the
release, and appear in the usually taken to the Liyuan Red Theatre holds a Vegas-
markets as DVDs and VCDs of Theater in the Jianguo Hotel. style Kung Fu show at 7:30pm.
variable quality. Check out the
listings in the English-language
entertainment magazines Traditional Theater Pubs, Bars and Clubs
found in the expat pubs on The city’s numerous teahouses The capital’s bar scene is lively
Sanlitun Lu, as well as in hotels. are excellent venues for the and varied, with a strong focus
The Beijinger has good listings. enjoyment of a variety of on the Nali Patio area of Taikoo
performances such as Li (North Sanlitun Lu), where the
traditional Chinese music, rooftop terrace at Fez is very
Beijing Opera storytelling, Chinese opera, popular with local hipsters on
Traditional performances acrobatics, and martial arts. weekends; and South Sanlitun
of Beijing Opera (jingju) The extraordinary body- Lu, which sits on the opposite
are staged in the splendid bending feats of Chinese side of Gongti Bei Lu to Nali
Zheng Yici Theater, the sole acrobats (zaji) can be seen at Patio, where uber-chic modern
surviving wooden theater in several places in the capital. speakeasy Janes and Hooch
China which was formerly a Popular performances are held serves cool cocktails with jazzy
temple. Shows begin on nightly at the Chaoyang lounge music. The lakes of
most nights at 7:30pm. The Theatre at 5:15 and 7:15pm, Houhai are also home to several
Huguang Guildhall has a and the China Acrobatics bars. One of the first, and still
similarly distinguished setting, Troupe stages performances at considered to be one of the
with daily performances at the Universal Theater every best, the No Name Bar near
6:30pm. During the warmer night at 7:15pm. Shows Hou Hai is well worth a visit.
DIRECTORY
Antiques, Crafts, Department Stores Dajie. Map 4 F3. Open Laoshe Teahouse
and Curios and Shopping Malls 9:30am–5:30pm daily. 3 Qian Men Xi Dajie,
Xuanwu. Map 3 C2.
Beijing Curio City Parkview Green Yashow Clothing
Tel (010) 6303 6830.
21 Dongsanhuan Nan Lu, Fangcaodi Market
Open 9:30am–10:30pm daily.
W of Huawei Bridge, 9 Dongdaqiao Rd, 58 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
Chaoyang district. Chaoyang district. district. National Center for
Open 10am–10pm daily. Performing Arts
Hong Qiao Market Yuanlong Silk
∑ parkviewgreen.com Xi Chang’an Jie.
9 Tiantan Jie, Hong Qiao Lu, Corporation
Tel (010) 6655 0000.
Chaoyang District. Taikoo Li 15 Yongding Men Dong Jie.
∑ chncpa.org
Map 4 E3. Open 9:30am– Sanlitun North Rd, at jnct Map 4 D4.
7pm daily. with Gongti Bei Lu. Red Theatre
Beijing Opera 44 Xingfu Jie, Dongcheng.
Huayi Classical
Carpets and Textiles Map 4 F3.
Furniture Huguang Guildhall
Tel (010) 6714 2473.
89 Xiaodian Dongwei 3 Hufangqiao Lu. Map 3 B3.
Antique Carpets
Lu, Chaoyang district. ∑ huguaangguild Universal Theater
4A6 Gongti Donglu,
Tel (010) 8433 3226. hallopera.com 10 Dong Zhi Men
Chaoyang district.
Nan Dajie. Map 2 F3.
Panjiayuan Market Prince Kung’s Mansion
Beijing Silk Store Tel (010) 6416 9893.
Panjiayuan Lu, Chaoyang 17 Qianhai Xi Jie. Map 1 B3.
5 Zhubaoshi, Qian Men
district. Open 8:30am– ∑ pgm.org.cn
Dajie. Map 3 C2. Pubs, Bars and
6:30pm Mon–Fri, 4:30am–
Open 9am–7:30pm daily. Zheng Yici Theater Clubs
6:30pm Sat & Sun.
220 Qian Men Xiheyan
Liangma Antique Fez
Dajie. Map 3 C2.
Books Market 6/F Nali Patio, Taikoo Li, 81
Tel (010) 8315 1650.
27 Liangmaqiao Lu, Sanlitun North Rd.
Page One ∑ zhengyici.com.cn
Chaoyang district. Tel (010) 5208 6138.
Taikoo Li Sanlitun,
Chaoyang district. Na-Li Traditional Theater Janes and Hooch
∑ pageonegroup.com Sanlitun Beilu, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu.
Chaoyang Theatre
Chaoyang district. Tel (010) 6503 2757.
The Bookworm 36 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu.
Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu. Qian Men Carpet Tel 135 5252 7373. No Name Bar
∑ beijingbook Company ∑ chaoyang 3 Qianhai Dongyan.
worm.com F1, Building 3, 59 Xingfu theatre.com Tel (010) 6401 8541.
120 BEIJING STREET FINDER
Haidian
Dong Cheng
Dian
Xi Men
Cheng
Chongwen
Xuanwu
Tourist information
Scale of Maps 1–4
Hospital
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
BEIJING STREET FINDER 121
DAJIE
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White Tower Temple Palace
Temple Xi Si Xishiku Jade
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DASHIZOU
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(Round City)
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Tianqiao Bus
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the Police Government
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Red Theatre
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Qinian Dian
Chinese Tian Tan
DO N G S IK U A IY U
Temple
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of Heaven
T I A N TAN
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AMUSEMENT PARK
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Gate Gate
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Heavenly Gate
YONGDING MEN DONG JIE
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ZUO'A
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Puhuangyu
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BEIJING & THE NORTH 127
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Historic Sites
2 Beidaihe 7 Yungang Caves pp138–9
3 Shanhaiguan e Qiao Jia Dayuan
4 Tianjin
5 Shijiazhuang
6 Datong
0 Taiyuan Weichang
q Pingyao pp144–5
Lu
an
Fengning
He
1 Chengde pp128–31
2
11
G6
8 Hanging Temple Zhangjiakou Luanping
5
9 Wutai Shan pp140–42 G4 Qinglong
Xuanhua
w Shuanglin Si
Beijing Qinhuangdao
109 Yuxian
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Shanyin Tangshan
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8
10 5
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Laiyuan G2
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Bo Hai
Hu a n
Baoding G4
Jinghai
G3
Xinzhou Dingzhou
r(
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Ri Cangzhou
Yellow
Botou
G5
0 Hengshui
G2 Yangquan
Lishi
Yuci
Fenyang
G4
Xingtai Nangong
G55
Jiexiu Key
Qinxian Weixian
Handan Expressway
G5
G45
Main road
e
Anyang
G5 Railroad
Jincheng Provincial border
Yuncheng Great Wall of China
0 km 100
0 miles 100
A traditional Chinese building illuminated at night For map symbols see back flap
128 BEIJING & THE NORTH
1 Chengde
The mountain resort at Chengde (Bishu Shanzhuang)
was chosen by the Kangxi emperor in 1703 as a means
of eluding the hot summers in the Forbidden City. Set
in a river valley surrounded by mountains, the park was
strategically secure and allowed the hardy Manchu to
engage in hunting and martial sports. The rural setting
Tibetan Buddhist designs to make the
beyond the Great Wall reminded the Manchu rulers of their
Mongol allies feel at home
homelands to the northeast. The eclectic temple design
of the surrounding Eight Outer Temples put visiting
Putuozongcheng Miao
Mongol and tribal chieftains at ease, so the emperor Shuxiang Si
could exploit their allegiances.
Northwest Gate
. Putuozongcheng Miao
Built to resemble the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the
temple is the largest of the Eight Outer Temples BISHU
and has displays of thangkas (Tibetan religious SHANZHUANG
scrolls), Tibetan religious ornaments, and two
scaled-down sandalwood pagodas.
Puning Si
PUYOU SI
Xumiufshou
Zhi Miao
. Puning Si
This temple combines Han Chinese designs
at the front with typical Tibetan structures
at the back. The highlight is the majestic
wooden statue of Guanyin in the main hall
East Gate Anyuan Miao (see pp130–31).
Yongyousi
•
Pagoda
Pule Si
Puren Si
Pule Si
0 meters 800 The most impressive hall in Pule Si, the Temple of
0 yards 800 Universal Joy, is the yellow-tiled twin conical-
roofed hall which has strong echoes of the Temple
of Heaven in Beijing.
Imperial
Palaces
Main Gate
Key
Town area
. Bishu Shanzhuang
The southern section of the resort contains an array of simple
Road but elegant palaces, cool shaded lakes, and waterside pavilions,
best viewed from a rowing boat.
130 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Buddhist Symbols
Guanyin’s hands hold an array of
Buddhist symbolic instruments –
the pure sound of the bell is said
to drive away evil spirits.
. Guanyin
The huge effigy of Guanyin, also known to
Buddhists as Avalokitesvara, is fashioned from
five different types of wood. Viewing galleries
can be climbed for views above ground level.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN, & SHANXI 131
. Mayahana Hall
Called Dacheng Ge in Chinese,
the 122-ft (37-m) high hall
symbolizes the palace of
Buddha on Mount Sumeru, the
center of the Buddhist world.
Puning Si
This illustration shows the Tibetan-
styled rear section of the temple
complex. This part uses several
terraces to emphasize differences
of height and scale, whereas
the traditional Chinese part of the
complex consists of a symmetrical
series of buildings on a single axis.
Stupa (Chorten)
These monuments represent
Buddhas’s physical presence
and traditionally held sacred
relics or even the remains
of revered lamas.
134 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Dabei
3 Confucius Temple Station
AN
HEB
Xizhan Monastery
GSH
ON
Northeast S H IZILI
N
KA
Xibeijiao LI
Ancient Culture
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Street
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Confucius
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Temple Tianhou
DO N G MA LU
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Cathedral D
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Key to Symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp558–9 and pp573–4
136 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Dafo Si
Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Lingxiao Ta
Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily.
P Zhaozhou Bridge
Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily. &
Cangyan Shan
@ from Shijiazhuang. Open 9am–
The graceful stone Zhaozhou Bridge (Zhaozhou Qiao) 5pm daily. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN, & SHANXI 137
7 Yungang Caves
Carved into sandstone cliffs, the caves at Yungang are one
of China’s most celebrated accomplishments of Buddhist
art. The assembly of over 51,000 statues was started by
the Northern Wei dynasty in AD 453 to atone for their
persecution of Buddhism. Hellenistic, Persian, Central Asian,
and Indian influences are evident in the carvings, testifying
to the many influences entering China via the Silk Road.
When the capital moved from Datong to Luoyang, in 494,
work at Yungang all but stopped. The statues are . Exterior of Cave 6
accompanied by English explanations. One third of the The wooden temple facade has
caves are currently closed for renovations. protected the beautifully carved
50-ft (16-m) stone pagoda and
the rest of the sculptures within.
Cave 13 Look for the
Cave 16 Has small figure supporting
finely featured the Buddha’s arm.
carving especially
Buddha’s head.
Detail of Cave 10
Built as a pair along
with Cave 9, this cave
is also divided into two
chambers. The interior is
densely decorated with
colorful bas-reliefs and
statues in niches.
Musicians, Cave 12
This cave is decorated with devotees of music
and dance. The colorful walls provide excellent
evidence for the development and use of
musical instruments in China at the time.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN, & SHANXI 139
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
10 miles (16 km) W of Datong.
Tel (0352) 510 2265, CITS Datong.
Open 8:30am–6pm daily. & 8
9 = - ∑ tour.yungang.org
Transportation
@ 3 from Datong bus station,
26 from the long-distance bus
station, 4 from train station.
View of the central section of the Yungang Caves, Datong
Interior, Cave 3 Pagoda in Cave 2
The Buddhas here have Nearly square in
rounded fleshy faces construction, this cave
and full lips, indicating has a carved square
that they are later pagoda linking ceiling
creations, perhaps Sui and floor. The statues in
dynasty (581–618). the cave have suffered a
little due to exposure to
the weather.
9 Wutai Shan
The monastic village of Taihuai, nestling in the valley
ringed by Wutai Shan’s five mountain peaks (or terraces),
has the largest concentration of temples, as well as most
of Wutai Shan’s hotels and restaurants. Wutai Shan was
the site of over 300 temples during the Qing dynasty,
but many were destroyed. Tsongkhapa, the founder of
the Buddhist Yellow Hat Sect (which has the Dalai Lama
as its head), lived here and the mountains and its shrines
are revered by Lamaist Buddhists. In winter, the roads
are often closed due to snow. Late spring and summer is Luohou Si
the best time to visit, but also the most crowded. Inside this temple is a wooden lotus
flower decorated with eight wooden
petals that, when rotated, open to
reveal carved Buddhist figures.
. Tayuan Si
This temple is dominated by its
distinctive Ming dynasty and
Tibetan-styled Great White Dagoba
(Da Bai Ta), which rises to a height of
164 ft (50 m). The dagoba is topped
with a bronze cap with bells.
KEY
Taihuai
West of the Qingshui River, the village is
thronged by pilgrims, monks, and lamas. Visitors
come for its Buddhist temples and to shop for
religious talismans.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN, & SHANXI 141
. Pusa Ding
To reach Pusa Ding (Bodhisattva Summit), a
temple complex dating from the Ming and
Qing dynasties, there is a climb of 108 steps.
A significant number – it is the number of
beads on a Buddhist rosary.
Qi Fo Si
This temple is not visited as much as the
other more famous temples and as such will
be a quieter spot to take in the scenery. It also
has a white stone pagoda.
Central Peak
Western Peak
Eastern
Peak
Longquan Si 0 km 4
Pailuo Ping
0 miles 2
Jinge Si
Zhenhai Si Key
Nanshan Si
Built-up area
Temple
Peak
Southern Peak
Path
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 143
Chongshan Si
Open 8am–4:30pm daily. &
E Shanxi Provincial Museum
13 Bin He Xilu. Tel (0351) 878 9015.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ old.shanximuseum.com
q Pingyao
Surrounded by one of China’s few intact Ming city walls,
Pingyao’s streets are lined with a wealth of traditional
Chinese buildings, including courtyard houses, temples,
and more than 3,000 historic shops. Pingyao’s treasure . Rishenchang
trove of Ming and Qing architecture is a legacy of the This extensive museum of early
town’s affluent days as a banking center, which ceased banking is the site of China’s first
draft bank, founded in 1824.
when the Qing dynasty defaulted on loans and abdicated,
leaving the banks empty. The transferral of the country’s
West Gate,
finances to Shanghai and Hong Kong turned the city into
train station
a backwater, saving it from development and, ultimately, XI
DA
preserving its character. JIE
ZH
EN
GF
UJ
IE
Southeast Pingyao
The most notable part of the car-free town,
the southeast corner and center of Pingyao
has the largest concentration of sights, South Gate
museums, and heritage architecture. (Ying Xun Men)
Furniture Museum
As well as this rickshaw,
there are rooms in this
typical Qing dynasty
compound that are
furnished as bedrooms,
kitchens, and opium dens.
. City Walls
The 39-ft (12-m) high, crenellated
enclosure dating from 1370 is said
to resemble the outline of a tortoise.
Its head lies at the South Gate, its 0 meters 30
four feet at the East and West Gates, 0 yards 30
and its tail at the North Gate.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–9 and pp573–4
HEBEI, TIANJIN, & SHANXI 145
Practical Information
62 miles (100 km) S of Taiyuan. * 4 miles (6 km) SW of Pingyao. @
40,000. n Zhao Pi Nan Jie 58. Open Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily (to 5pm
daily. & (joint ticket for all sights). in winter). &
Transportation
£ @ City Walls: access at This temple has a long history,
West Gate. dating back 1,500 years to
the Northern Wei, which had its
capital at Datong (see p137). The
. Bell Tower current temple was built during
Rising above Nan Dajie, the Bell the Ming and Qing dynasties
Tower is a charming structure and contains over 2,000
decorated with ornamented eaves. Buddhist statues, some from the
North Gate Song dynasty. The effigies are
(Gonji Men) The Tianjixiang arranged in ten halls around
Museum has a three courtyards. The expertly
small collection of These three adjoining fashioned figures’ expressions
local artifacts. Daoist temples were vary from the sublime through
last rebuilt in 1859, after the comic to the sinister. The
burning down during a
lifelike luohans in the second
DO temple fair.
NG hall each reveal an individual
DA persona and the bodhisattvas in
JIE
the third hall are well worth
seeking out.
CH
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G18
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Tu Laiyang
Zibo Rushan
Linqing Weifang
Boshan
G18
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G45
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G2
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G4
Zaozhuang
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Songxian Shangqiu
Xuchang G30
G55
G40 Zhoukou
Pingdingshan
Luohe G36
Xixia Nanyang
G4 Fuyang
0 0 km 100
Xincai
Tanghe
G4
0 miles 100
Huangchuan
Xinyang
G45
G40
G55
G7
Key
0
Expressway
Yichang Main road
Wuhan
Minor road
Railroad
Provincial border
Longmen Caves – an important and busy tourist attraction For additional map symbols see back flap
148 BEIJING & THE NORTH
A view of the skyline of Jinan, the capital of Shandong from across Daming Lake
Confucius
The teachings of Confucius (551–479 BC), China’s most renowned
philosopher, profoundly influenced the culture of China as well as
other nations, including Japan, Korea, and Vietnam. Born in the state
of Lu during an age of uninterrupted war, Confucius (whose name
was derived from his Chinese name, Kong Fuzi or Master Kong) was
prompted by the suffering around him to develop a practical
philosophy built upon the principle of virtue (ren), in the hope that
rulers would govern in a just manner. Finding no audience among
his native rulers, he communicated his beliefs to a body of disciples
and embarked on a journey in search of a ruler who would apply his
rules of governance. He died unrecognized and never recorded his
philosophy in writing, but his thoughts were compiled by his
followers into a volume called the Analects (Lunyu), and promulgated.
Championed by successive thinkers including Mencius, Confucius’s
philosophy later achieved predominance and formed the basis for
the civil service examination system, a major hurdle to a career in
officialdom right until the 20th century. The philosopher-sage, Confucius
150 BEIJING & THE NORTH
2 Tai Shan
Having played a part in China’s earliest creation myths, Tai Shan
(Peaceful Mountain) has held sway over the Chinese imagination Hou Sui Wu
for millennia. It is ascended year-round by legions of pilgrims and
travelers, making it China’s most sacred and most climbed
mountain. Despite the crowds, a supernatural presence permeates
Tai Shan, best experienced via a slow ascent with plenty of pit stops
at wayside shrines and monuments. Many tourists stay overnight
at hotels on the mountain and watch the sunrise from the cloud- Taohua Yuan
wreathed peak, which is where Tai Shan’s most significant temples
can be found, attracting droves of devout worshipers.
. Yuhuang Miao
Dedicated to the supreme
deity of Daoism, the Jade
Emperor Temple marks the
conclusion of the ascent at
5,070 ft (1,545 m) and
houses a statue of the Jade
Emperor and wall paintings.
Huima Ling
. Shiba Pan
The last and most punishing part of the climb, the steep Path
of Eighteen Bends is visible from Zhong Tian Men (the halfway Longtan
point), and brings weary travelers to Nan Tian Men, the last Shuiku
gate on Tai Shan, but not the summit.
Dazhong Qiao
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Mountain of Emperors
The most exalted of China’s five Daoist mountains, Tai Shan has Practical Information
been an essential imperial climb since the time of Qin Shi Huangdi. Tai’an, 45 miles (70 km) S of Jinan.
Emperors ascended Tai Shan to gain assurance that their heavenly n near train station, (0538) 806
mandate would be maintained; an abortive 6077. & _ Tai Shan Race (Sep).
ascent could signal Heaven’s favor was in Open daily; cable car: 8am–5pm.
question. Several sights have imperial &-
associations: Huima Ling (Horse Turns Transportation
Back Ridge) marks the spot where ~ at Jinan. £ @ 3 from Jinan.
Emperor Zhenzong’s horse refused
to go any farther and the ruler had
to continue by sedan chair. Tai Shan’s Key
importance is further evinced by two Minor road
other notables who clambered up its
Path
slopes: Confucius and Mao Zedong.
Built-up area
Qin Shi Huangdi, first emperor of China
0 meters 800
0 yards 800
. Dai Miao
This temple is the town’s
main attraction and a
natural departure point for
Tai’an climbing the mountain.
The main building, the
Tiankuang Dian, is an
immense yellow-eaved
hall that contains a massive
dimly lit Song dynasty
fresco depicting the
Zhenzong emperor as
the God of Tai Shan.
For additional map symbols see back flap
152 BEIJING & THE NORTH
U
L
N
IA
Jiaozhou X
EN
Bay SH
LU
N
The former Governor’s Residence UA
CH
TA I ' A N L U
LU
SI
N
A
N
U
Local Ferry Y
In 1897, Kaiser Wilhelm took Lu running north is Terminal
Railway Station
over Qingdao after two German Qingdao’s premier Coach Station
Train
missionaries were killed by the shopping street. To the Station
FE
XI
LU
I
IZ TA Number
court was forced to cede the Church, whose twin HO
U L 6 Beach
U
city to Germany for 99 years, but spires preside over an Tuandao
it was returned to China in 1922, atmospheric part of town Bay
after eight years under Japanese filled with steep cobbled Qingdao Bay
occupation. The Japanese took streets and iron balconies.
over the port again between Southeast of the Catholic Huangdao
1938 and 1945. church is the charming
Wandering about at leisure is Lutheran Church, with its
the best way to see Qingdao’s distinctive clock tower and Key to Symbols see back flap
main sights, most of which lie in
the German Concession in the
southwest of town that roughly Chinese Beer
stretches between Tai’an Lu and Tsingtao, which swears by its magic ingredient
Xiaoyu Shan Park. The Germans of mineral water from Lao Shan, is China’s most
built the imposing train station, famous beer (pijiu). Built by homesick Germans in
equipped with a belfry, to mark 1903, the Tsingtao brewery is China’s largest, with
the end of the line they laid to exports to over 40 countries. Once the best (and
the provincial capital of Ji’nan. most expensive) in China, Tsingtao faces stiff local
Reproduced on the label of competition as international breweries invest
Tsingtao beer, the octagonal heavily in joint ventures in what is the fastest
Huilai Pavilion, which hosts craft growing beer market in the world. Vast amounts
of beer are drunk during the town’s Beer Festival
exhibitions, lies at the tip of
in the last two weeks of August. You can visit the
Zhanqiao Pier. The 1,444 ft
brewery (which also has a museum and bar) and
(440 m) pier juts into Qingdao Tsingtao beer can receive free samples.
Bay off the frenetic No. 6 beach.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and pp574–5
SHANDONG & HENAN 153
5 Lutheran Church
AD 500, and paintings from the 15 Jiangsu Lu. Tel (0532) 8286 5970.
Yuan and Ming eras. Visitors can Open 8:30am–5pm daily 5 Sun. Environs: A 25-mile (40-km) bus
stroll down Qingdao’s waterfront ride from Qingdao, the vast
past its many beaches. No. 1 E Qingdao Museum mountainous region of Lao Shan
beach is the longest and busiest, 27 Meiling Lu. Tel (0532) 8889 3336. is a famous retreat with temples,
while farther east, No. 2 beach is Open 9am–5:30pm (to 4:30pm in waterfalls, and hiking trails. The
winter) Tue–Sun. &
area is steeped in Daoist lore and
Passenger Ferry throughout the ages envoys were
Terminal
LU
XI
N JI
ANG
0 meters 800 elixir of life. The Song-era Great
YA
UA
0 yards 800
L I AO N
ING the way up Mount Lao Shan. The
LU
Zhushuishan palace was built by the first Song
Gongyuan
LU
YA N'AN YI LU
Daoist rituals for the dead. From
the palace, paths lead to the sum-
LU
ZHON GSHAN LU
Qingdaoshan
DA
Zhongshan
area was once dotted with Daoist
E LU
Gongyuan
JIANGS
Church
XIAN Lao Shan today. The most famous is the
Xiaoyu LU
GERMAN ENG Song-dynasty Taiqing Temple
G
Shan END LU
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CONCESSION Gongyuan W XI
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Qingdao NA XI AN
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LU
LU
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the Shandong writer Pu Songling
IL
Museum NG
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IX
A
XI
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HA
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LA
DO N
Z H E N G YA N G G U A N L U
Zhanqiao Pier
Luxun
Number temples survive on Lao Shan’s
Huilai Pavilion 1 Beach Number
Gongyuan slopes along with caves, the
N G H A I GU A N L U 3 Beach
S HA
Huiquan Bay
highest and deepest of which is
Number 2
Beach Huashi Lou the Mingxia cave in front of
Taiping Bay Xuanwu Peak. Lao Shan is also
Huiquanjiao
Horn Taipingjiao known for its mineral water, a
Horn
vital ingredient of Tsingtao beer.
Iron Pagoda
Iron Pagoda Park, Beimen Dajie.
Open 7am–7pm daily. &
The 13-story Iron Pagoda (Tie
Ta) rises up just within the Song
dynasty ramparts in the northeast
of the city. This brick pagoda
was built in 1049 and is covered
The ornately decorated Shanshaan Gan Guildhall with brown glazed tiles, which
give the tower its metallic luster
Exploring Kaifeng P Shanshan Gan Guildhall as well as its name. Visitors can
Much of modern Kaifeng lies Xufu Jie, off Shudian Jie. Open no longer climb the pagoda,
within the old city walls. In the 8am–6:30pm daily. & although you can still explore
west of the city is the large and The exuberant Qing-dynasty the beautiful grounds. The
peaceful Baogong Hu (Baogong hall was built by merchants of pagoda is Kaifeng’s best-
Lake). Within walking distance Gansu, Shanxi, and Shaanxi known landmark.
to the south of the lake, the provinces as housing. It sports a
Kaifeng Museum on Yingbin Lu drum and bell tower, as well as
houses three stelae that a spirit wall. The building’s
originally stood outside the old eaves have vivid scenes from
Jewish synagogue. They record merchant life, while the eaves
the history of the city’s Jewish in the main hall are carved with
community. The No. 4 People’s animals, birds, and gold bats
Hospital on Beitu Jie sits on the (symbols of luck).
remains of the synagogue in
the Jewish quarter. All that can Da Xiangguo Si
be seen today is the iron cover 36 Ziyou Lu. @ 5, 9. Tel (0371) 2597
over an old well. Nearby is the 8502. Open 8am–6:30pm daily. &
Kaifeng Jewish History Memorial Yanqing Guan Baogong Hu Dongbei
Center. Outside the city walls, 6 Shengli Jie. Open daily. & ^
miles (10 km) to the north, is the Kaifeng’s most celebrated
Yellow River Viewing Point. From temple is Da Xiangguo Si
the pavilion, there are expansive (Prime Minister’s Temple).
views across the vast silt plain of Originally built in 555, it
the winding river. Adjacent to the was China’s principal temple
pavilion stands an iron statue of an during the Song era, when it
ox, that was originally a charm accommodated 64 halls and a The magnificent Qianshou Guanyin,
to protect the city from floods. huge legion of monks. Swept Da Xiangguo Si
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and pp574–5
SHANDONG & HENAN 157
Yellow River B E I
HUAN
Kaifeng City Center Viewing Point GCHE
NG L
U
Xibei Hu Tieta
2 Da Xiangguo Si Iron Hu
BEIMEN D
Longting Pagoda
3 Iron Pagoda Park
LU
4 Longting Park
HENG
Yangjia
Children’s
5 Fan Pagoda Millennium
D O N G H U A NG C
Xi Hu Themepark
City
EN JIE
Yangjia Panjia
Hu Hu
B E I D AO M
SO N G
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XIMEN D
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0 miles 1 E D ON G
SHU DIA N JIE
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Memorial
D ONG
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Fan
Key to Symbols see back flap Train Pagoda
Station Yuwangtai
Park
158 BEIJING & THE NORTH
9 Anyang
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and pp574–5
SHANDONG & HENAN 159
Key
Early settlement
Flood plain
1 The source of the Yellow River Southern route of river 0 km 1
is high in the Qinghai mountains.
0 miles 1
The descent from the plateau’s
height of 13,000 ft (4,000 m) gives
the river its incredible power. Loess Plateau
Beijing
Bo Hai
Xining
e r
Lanzhou Riv
w
llo
Ye
Yellow
Luoyang Sea
Mother of China Xi’an
Evidence of some of the earliest Huai He
Chinese settlements, dating
back as far as 6000 BC, have Yangzi Nanjing
been discovered beside the
Yellow River, earning it another Shanghai
title – “Mother of China.”
w Longmen Caves
This outstanding collection of religious statuary
was started by the Buddhist Northern Wei rulers
(AD 386–534) – creators of the Yungang Caves
(see pp138–9) – after they moved their capital
from Datong to Luoyang. The ensuing Sui and
Tang dynasties further added to the grottoes,
especially during the rule of Tang dynasty
Empress Wu Zetian, before anti-Buddhist
purges abruptly halted its development. The
tragic number of headless statues as a result View across the Yi River looking onto Fengxian Si
of vandalism and theft creates a solemn mood, and the west bank caves
although today the caves are obviously
well cared for.
. Vairocana Buddha
Over 56 ft (17 m) tall, this colossal
statue’s face was reputedly
modeled after Empress Wu Zetian.
The statue’s enigmatic smile has
earned it the nickname the
“Eastern Mona Lisa.”
Fengxian Si 1
This cave, on the west bank, is
largest of all the caves and dates
back to AD 675.
Ananda
This statue is of Ananda, a
disciple of Sakyamuni, the
founder of Buddhism. A
master of memory, he
compiled the Buddhist sutras.
Smashed Ananda
Some statues were damaged in the
late-Tang dynasty, as Buddhism fell
out of favor. Other figures were
stolen by souvenir-hunters or
attacked by Red Guards during
the Cultural Revolution.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and pp574–5
SHANDONG & HENAN 161
The east bank of the river provides a great vantage point to 0 yards 250
Yi River
Key
Area illustrated
164 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Kung Fu
Chinese martial arts are loosely referred to as gong fu or kung fu in the West. Gong fu
means “skill” and can describe the accomplishments of a calligrapher or pianist, as much
as a martial artist. No one is certain when the fighting arts came to the country, but it is
clear that China has the largest number and most colorful of fighting styles, including
Drunken Boxing and Praying Mantis Fist. Although there is considerable blurring
between them, kung fu divides into internal (neijia) and external (waijia) schools. The
internal schools tend to stress internal power or qi (see pp38–9), using evasion and
softness to lead an attacker off balance, while waijia forms seek to overwhelm an
opponent with physical strength and power. Kung fu employs many weapons, including
the spear, broadsword, pole, and whip and even encompasses training in the use of
everyday objects, such as the fan, umbrella, or stool, as weapons.
Xingyi Quan
(Shape Mind Fist) Bagua Zhang (Eight
is, of the neijia practices, Trigram Palm),
probably the closest to a hard an internal art,
school. Although its strikes incorporates circular
and blocks are linear and movements into all
powerful, relaxation is footwork and strikes.
paramount. The basics Bagua practitioners
of this explosive were traditionally
fighting style are seen by other stylists
simple to learn, but as unpredictable,
tricky to master. elusive, and
ferocious adversaries.
SHAANXI
At the heart of China, bordered by the Yellow River to the east, the
dusty province of Shaanxi has had its lion’s share of splendor. In
1066 BC, the Western Zhou dynasty established its capital at Hao,
near modern-day Xi’an (see pp168–73). It was from here, about 850
years later, that China was unified by its first emperor, Qin Shi Huangdi (see p60). This set the
stage for Xi’an to serve as the seat of political power to successive dynasties including the
Western Han, the Sui, and the Tang, for over a millennium. By the 9th century, Xi’an, known
then as Chang’an, was the largest and wealthiest city in the world, immersed in the riches that
spilled along the Silk Road. At the peak of the Tang era, Xi’an’s population of over a million
people worshiped at as many as 1,000 temples within the confines of a vast city wall.
The city’s treasures are abundant, from the silent army of Terracotta Warriors just northeast
of Xi’an, fashioned to guard the tomb of China’s first emperor, to the impressive Shaanxi
History Museum, with thousands of exhibits ranging from Shang and Zhou bronze vessels to
Tang-era ornaments and funerary items.
Xi’an’s other key sights include the extensive Eight Immortals Temple associated with Daoist
legends, and the two Goose Pagodas with their strong connections to Tang-era Buddhism.
Many visitors also make a trip to the holy mountain of Hua Shan, to the east of Xi’an, for its
stimulating combination of energetic hiking opportunities and quiet sanctity.
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
1 Xi’an
Historic Sites
5
G6
3 Hua Shan
Yulin iv
er
Yellow R
Hengshan
Linfen
Fuxian
Yichuan
Huangling
Key Hancheng
Tongchuan
Heyang
Expressway G5
Sanyuan
National Highway Weinan
Baoji Xianyang G30
Minor road
Railroad G30 Shangzhou
G65
Fengxian
Provincial border G4
G5 0
Great Wall of China Lueyang Shanyang
Shiquan
Hanzhong G70
Zhenba Ankang
Shiyan
Pingli
The granite-peaked Hua Shan, with prayer flags adorning the route For additional map symbols see back flap
168 BEIJING & THE NORTH
1 Xi’an
Capital of modern Shaanxi, Xi’an has served as capital to 11
dynasties over a period of 4,000 years, including the Western
Zhou, Western Han, Qin, Western Wei, Northern Zhou, Sui, and
Tang. The Chinese trace its lineage back even further to the
mythical Yellow Emperor, who made Xianyang his capital
Detail from the Nestorian tablet at
(2200–1700 BC). Xi’an peaked during the Tang dynasty, when the Forest of Stelae Museum
its position at the eastern end of the Silk Road (see pp470–71)
transformed it into a bustling metropolis, luring foreign at the Imperial Academy in
merchants and faiths, including Nestorian Christians, Muslims, Xi’an. The Daqin Nestorian
Zoroastrians, Manicheans, and Buddhists. The city declined later Tablet in the second hall may
be of more interest to visitors.
but has some splendid sights and a thriving tourist economy. The stele is topped with a cross
and was carved in 781 to
commemorate the arrival of
Nestorian Christianity in Xi’an.
The characters at the top of the
stele refer to Rome (or Daqin),
and Nestorian Christianity, the
“Revered Religion.” Branded
heretical for believing in the
separation of Christ’s human
and divine attributes, the first
Nestorians arrived in Xi’an in
AD 635. They thrived in the
city for two centuries before
suddenly vanishing altogether.
Inside the third hall, an
engraved map of Chang’an
A view of the South Gate, Xi’an City Walls reveals the scale of the city at
the height of its glory. The fourth
P Xi’an City Walls E Forest of Stelae (Beilin) hall houses calligraphic rendi-
Open South Gate: 8am–10pm daily, Museum tions of poems by Su Dongpo
other gates: 8am–6pm daily. & - 18 Wenyi Bei Lu. Tel (029) 721 0764. (1037–1101) and other Chinese
Unlike many city walls in China, Open 8am–6pm daily. & poets, and illustrations including
including Beijing’s mighty A short distance east of the etchings of Bodhidarma, the
ramparts – now mostly flattened South Gate, this museum’s Indian founder of Chan (Zen)
– Xi’an’s walls are still intact, seven halls house about 3,000 Buddhism (see pp164–5). Useful
forming a 9-mile (14-km) long stelae – stone pillars carved for reference material for the study
rectangle around the city center. commemorative purposes – the of local history and society
In 1370, during the reign of earliest dating from the Han during the Song, Yuan, Ming,
Hongwu, the first Ming emperor, dynasty. The tablets bearing and Qing eras can be found
these walls were built on the dense reams of classical Chinese preserved in the fifth hall. The
foundations of the Tang imperial may only interest scholars, but museum’s side halls display more
palace, using rammed earth, others are engraved with maps historical and religious artifacts.
quicklime, and glutinous rice and illustrations. The stelae in
extract. The 39-ft (12-m) high the first hall comprise a record
bastions have bases up to 59 ft of the 12 Confucian classics,
(18 m) thick. Visitors can climb including the Book of
the walls at several locations, Songs (Shijing), the
particularly at the steps east of Book of Changes
the South Gate or at the West (Yijing or I Ching), and
Gate, for walks along the busy the Analects (Lunyu).
ramparts. Though striking in These were carved
themselves, the walls are modest on 114 stone tablets
compared to the mighty bastion in 837, upon the
that once encompassed 30 sq orders of the Tang
miles (78 sq km) of Chang’an, Wenzong emperor,
Xi’an’s name during the Tang era. as the standard texts
Bikes can be rented to cycle to eliminate copyist’s The facade of the Forest of Stelae Museum,
around the walls. errors, and were kept once the Temple of Confucius
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and pp574–5
X I ’A N 169
Z I Q I ANG XI L U ZI QI AN G D O NG LU
Xi'an Train
XI LU
X I XI N J I E
6 Small Wild Goose Pagoda The Great Zhonglou Eight
Mosque Immortals
7 Shaanxi History Museum West XI DAJIE DONG DAJIE East
Temple
BAI SHULIN
Station
Yongningmen
TAIYI LU
Goose Pagoda
AN LU
0 km 1
Tiyuchang
1 NAN ERHUAN LU
0 miles
CHANG’
Daxingshan
Si Shaanxi History
Museum
X I AO Z H A I D O N G L U
Xiaozhai
Great Wild
Goose Pagoda
Access to upper
Buddhas gained via Fifth level
narrow staircase.
Octagonal pagodas
Sakyamuni (33 Second level
may have come about
ft/11 m), stored
as a result of Tantric sutras and relics.
Buddhism, which used
a cosmology with eight First level
cardinal points. Base
Yingxian Pagoda
The wooden pagoda at the
Fogong Si, Yingxian, is one of
the finest surviving pagodas.
Built in 1056, the octagonal
building is called the
Sakyamuni Pagoda.
172 BEIJING & THE NORTH
Key to Floorplan
Pre-history
Shang and Zhou dynasties
Qin dynasty
Han dynasty
Northern and Southern dynasties
Tang dynasty
Song to Qing dynasties
Tiger-Shaped Tally
Special exhibitions Inscribed with the archaic script used for Qin official
Non-exhibition space texts, this remarkable bronze artifact was issued to
generals to authorize the mobilization of troops.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and p575
X I ’A N 173
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Tang Sancai Horse
This three-color (sancai) Practical Information
piece is a fine example of the 91 Xiaozhai Donglu. Tel (029)
polychrome earthenware 8521 7140. Open mid-Mar–mid-
pottery that has remained Oct: 8:30am–6pm Tue–Sun; mid-
unsurpassed since Tang times. Nov–mid-Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
- 7 9 ∑ e.sxhm.com
Transportation
@ 5, 6, 8, 19, 521 from train station.
Second floor
Ming Kettle
Among the small number of
Ming artifacts at the museum
is this kettle with gold tracing
in a peacock and peony (a
flower symbolizing wealth
and rank) pattern.
Gallery Guide
The exhibits are arranged in
chronological order, with Shang
First floor and Western Zhou exhibits in
Gallery 1. On the second floor,
Gallery 2 covers the Han, Western
Wei, and Northern Zhou periods,
Golden Monster while Gallery 3 concentrates on
Standing as though poised to the Sui, Tang, Ming, and Qing
charge, this magnificent Han- dynasties. The two wings of the
dynasty ornament has a patterned museum house temporary
body and stylized horns that arch high exhibits that can vary in quality
over the beast’s back and end in a face. and explanation.
174 BEIJING & THE NORTH
2 Terracotta Army
The Terracotta Army (Emperor Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum Site Site Plan
Museum) was discovered in 1974 by peasants digging a well.
Exhibition
The awesome ranks of life-size pottery figures, modeled from Hall
yellow clay, were made to guard the tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi, Pit 2
the despotic ruler who unified China over 2,200 years ago (see Pit 3
p60). Excavations yielded three pits and over 7,000 soldiers,
archers, and horses. Pit 1 contains the infantry; Pit 2 (still
Pit 1
being excavated) is filled with cavalry and soldiers; and Pit 3
(partially unexcavated) seems to be the command center,
with 70 high-ranking officers. Each warrior, originally colored
with pigment and holding a weapon, has an
individually crafted expression.
. Army in Pit 1
The most impressive pit contains over 6,000
warriors, arrayed in battle formation. The rear
of the vault is strewn with smashed heads and
fragments yet to be assembled.
High-Ranking Officer
Dressed commandingly in a long,
two-layered knee-length tunic, this
imposing figure is distinguished
both by his regalia and by
being taller than the pottery
infantry figures he appears
to oversee.
Original Decoration
All of the figures were originally
painted in vivid colors similar to Infantry
this replica. Some retain traces of The pottery warriors were originally equipped
paint, but most of them faded with weapons, including swords, spears, and
after exposure to air. bows and arrows, many of which have rotted.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and p575
X I ’A N 175
Individual Details
The intricacy is astonishing,
especially in the careful
execution of individual
hairstyles on the hand-
sculpted heads. Further
artistry is evident in the
detailed belts, clothing,
and footwear.
The 12-storied pagoda at the Famen Temple, now restored to its former glory
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p559 and p575
SHAANXI 177
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Temple buildings on the island of Putuo Shan, off the east coast of Zhejiang
182 CENTRAL CHINA
A PORTRAIT OF
CENTRAL CHINA
From the modern city of Shanghai to the historic and picturesque canal
towns, Central China encapsulates the essence of the country and its culture.
The region can also be considered the crucible of modern China, as many
of the stirring historical events that shaped the nation took place here in
the early 20th century.
The Yangzi (Chang Jiang), which flows into Shanghai, which actually sits on the
the East China Sea just below Shanghai, is Huangpu River, a small tributary of the
the thread that binds all of Central China Yangzi, is something of an upstart, despite
together. The combination of water and its reputation. A small provincial town
silt has fertilized vast areas, especially until the mid-19th century, it evolved to
around Wuhan, referred to as “China’s become China’s greatest city. Even after
Grain Basket”, or the “Land of Fish and Rice.” the Cultural Revolution it remained the
Despite its tendency to flood, the river has country’s fashion and shopping capital as
for centuries been a vital conduit for well as a great industrial powerhouse. It
China’s trade, crowded with sampans and is, today, one of the most visible symbols
junks, as observed by Marco Polo in the of “new” China’s vitality and dynamism.
13th century, as well as tea clippers in the A comprehensive urban makeover took
19th century and ferries and cruise ships place ahead of Shanghai hosting the 2010
today. The river has also accelerated the World Expo, and the city has positioned
country’s development: without the itself as a world financial center.
Yangzi there would have been no Grand Politically too, Shanghai’s impact has been
Canal and no Shanghai. Now, with the enormous; it was the site of the first meeting
controversial construction of the Three of the Chinese Communist Party and the
Gorges Dam, the river has been used spawning ground for the Cultural Revolution
again to supply the requirements of and the Gang of Four, all of whom had
China’s vast, clamorous population. strong connections with the city.
Rocks: There were two main kinds of rock – the Water: An essential element of life, water could be
eroded limestones from lakes, often used as used in the garden as a mirror and so appear to
sculptures, or the yellow rock piled up to recall increase the size of the garden. Water also serves as
mountains and caves to the mind of the viewer. a contrasting partner and therefore a balance to
The beauty and realism of the rockery usually the hard stone. Finally it is a home for goldfish,
determined the success or failure of the garden. symbols of good fortune.
Interiors of pavilions
were important as the
venues for creativity. A
lot of care was taken to
select an appropriate
and poetic name for
each building.
Plants: Plants were used sparingly and usually for Buildings: An intrinsic part of the garden, these
their symbolic qualities. Thus the lotus is purity, as it pavilions and waterside halls provide a place for
flowers from the mud; bamboo is resolve, it is contemplation and, more importantly, a specific
difficult to break; plum is vigor, as it blooms in viewpoint, as well as shelter from the sun and rain.
winter; the pine is longevity, for it is an evergreen; They could range from open kiosks to multi-story
the imperial peony is wealth. halls and meeting rooms.
Penjing
Dating as far back as the Tang dynasty (618–907), penjing is the
art of creating a miniature landscape in a container. Not
limited to small trees, the artist may use rocks and specially
cultivated plants to portray a scene of natural beauty, as
though it were a landscape painting. As well as being
beautiful, the harmony in these creations is seen
as the spiritual expression of man’s relationship
with nature, the meeting of the temporal with
the omnipresent. Often part of a Chinese
garden will be devoted to the display or
cultivation of this delicate art. The Chinese art of penjing, the forerunner
to Japanese bonsai
186 CENTRAL CHINA
Tofu Casserole Tofu with sea Squirrel Fish A bream is filleted, Sweet and Sour Spare Ribs
cucumbers, ham, prawns, coated with batter, deep-fried, Deep-fried bite-size pork
mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and served with a sweet-and- spare ribs braised in soy, sugar,
and bok choi in a stew pot. sour sauce. and vinegar.
CENTRAL CHINA 189
SHANGHAI
Straddling both banks of the Huangpu River, close to the
mouth of the mighty Yangzi on China’s eastern seaboard,
Shanghai is the nation’s largest and most dynamic city,
with a population of more than 23 million people. It is an
autonomous municipality, and an explosion of economic
and industrial development has made it one of the fastest
growing cities in the world.
By Chinese standards, the development In 1949, the Communists took over and
of Shanghai, which means “above the the city was stripped of its grandeur.
sea,” is a recent phenomenon. In the However, in 1990, the Pudong area across
13th century it became a minor county the river from the Bund was declared a
seat and so it remained until the mid- Special Economic Zone, and a revival
19th century when British commercial started. Investments poured in; flyovers,
ambitions led to war with China. The malls, and hotels sprang up, and shining
ensuing Treaty of Nanking allowed the metal and glass skyscrapers towered
British to trade freely from certain above the Huangpu. This infrastructure
ports, including Shanghai. The city soon boom has skyrocketed into the new
became an outpost of glamor, high living, millennium. Both airports have been
and ultimately decadence. It was divided upgraded, an international cruise port
into “concessions,” where foreign nationals has opened, and new roads, subway
lived in miniature versions of first Britain, lines, hotels, and offices were built for
then France, the US, and Japan. The Bund, the 2010 World Expo. Today, from the
or quay along the Huangpu, is still lined Shanghai Tower, China’s tallest building,
with concession-era buildings, evidence to the latest street fashions, Shanghai is
of a time when Shanghai was the third the best place in the country to get a
largest financial center in the world. feel for the China of the future.
Exploring Shanghai
Of Shanghai’s three main areas, the Old City to the south is typically
Chinese, with alleys, markets, and temples. It is also the site of the Yu Gardens
(Yu Yuan), Shanghai’s finest traditional garden. The former concession areas
comprise the French Concession to the Old City’s west and the British and
American Concessions – collectively known as the International Settlement
– to its north. Here are the Bund – the riverside promenade lined with grand
colonial buildings, including the Fairmont Peace Hotel and the Waldorf Astoria
Hotel – and the city’s two main shopping streets, Nanjing Road and Huaihai
Road. Pudong, Shanghai’s newest district, on the Huangpu’s east bank, has
some of the world’s highest commercial buildings.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Sites Town
& Neighborhoods o Song Jiang
1 The Bund pp192–3
Shops & Markets
5 Pudong
2 Nanjing Road
7 Site of the First National
Congress of the Chinese Area of Natural Beauty Shanghai
Communist Party i She Shan
Train Station
HEN
0 Shanghai Exhibition Center TI ANMU
ROAD
GFE
t Soong Qingling’s Former SHOU
ANG
JIA
NG
CH
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e Jewish Refugee Museum
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Getting Around
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Shanghai. Its network is rapidly expanding, with many JIA N G
UO M
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new lines completed before the 2010 World Expo, and WE ST RO
JIA NG UO
several more under construction (see p620). Taxis are Zhaojiabang Road
convenient, cheap, and plentiful. There are plenty of JI ABANG
ROAD
Z H AO
buses, but these tend to be crowded and slow due to
the traffic congestion, especially during the morning
and evening rush hours. Each bus has its own schedule,
which can be complicated to follow.
For additional map symbols see back flap
SHANGHAI 191
Greater Shanghai
Key
Street-by-Street area: see pp198–9 G2
Expressway Huangdu Hongqiao Pudong
Main road Airport
Pudong
Railroad International
Airport
S20
Qingpu G50
G15
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Zhou
Xinzhuang
Wujing
pu
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192 CENTRAL CHINA
1 The Bund
Some places are forever associated with a single landmark,
and in the case of Shanghai it is surely the Bund. Also known
as Zhongshan East 1 Road, the Bund was at the heart of
the post-1842 concession era, flanked on one side by the
Huangpu River and on the other by the hotels, banks, offices,
and clubs that were the grandiose symbols of Western
commercial power. Most of the old buildings are still in place
and a walk along here can easily absorb a couple of pleasant
hours. The area was redeveloped for the 2010 World Expo.
The Bund, at its peak the third biggest
financial center in the world
. Shanghai Pudong
Development Bank
Built in 1921, it was said
to be the most beautiful
building in Asia. Inside there
are delightful murals.
. Customs House
The entrance hall is
decorated with some
handsome marine mosaics.
KEY
. Views of Pudong
In the evening the Bund throngs with people enjoying the river breeze
and the spectacular lights of Pudong’s modern skyline (see p195).
2 Nanjing Road
4 Shanghai
A view of Shanghai’s Old Racecourse before 1949
Museum
See pp196–7.
Eared Du. In 1990, it acquired the observation deck has views down
status of Special Economic Zone, on the Pearl. Both are surpassed
and became one of the largest by the 1,614-ft (492-m) Shanghai
5 Pudong building sites in the world, sup- World Financial Center, and
posedly festooned with a third the 124-floor, 2,073-ft (632-m)
East bank of Huangpu. q from of the world’s large cranes. The Shanghai Tower Pudong, the
People’s Square to Lujiazui. @ People’s transformation has been remark- second tallest building in the
Square. g Cross-River ferry terminal. able – a forest of skyscrapers has world upon completion in 2014.
grown as investment poured in.
In the mid-20th century, Pudong, The 1,500-ft (457-m) Oriental P Oriental Pearl TV Tower
facing the Bund on the other Pearl TV Tower offers views 1 Century Blvd. Tel (021) 5879 1888.
side of Huangpu, was the city’s across the city from halfway Open 8am–9:30pm daily. &
poorest quarter, a squalid huddle up, and houses the Shanghai
of slums and brothels and also History Museum. Pudong is also E Shanghai History Museum
the home of the notorious the site of the 1,379-ft (421-m) Tel (021) 5879 1888. Open 8am–
gangster Du Yuesheng, or Big- Jinmao Tower, whose 88th-floor 9:30pm. ∑ shmuseum.org
4 Shanghai Museum
With a collection of over 120,000 pieces, the Shanghai
Museum displays some of the best cultural relics from China’s
Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty, a span of over 5,000
years. While the highlights are the bronze ware, ceramics,
calligraphy, and painting, it also has excellent displays of jade,
furniture, coins, and Chinese seals or “chops.” The museum
was established in 1952, and the current building opened in
1995 with a design that recalls some of the exhibits and
symbolizes “a round heaven and a square earth.” Shanghai Museum, reminiscent of a
Shang-dynasty bronze ding pot
Calligraphy
To the Chinese, calligraphy is more than mere Third floor
communication, it is one of the highest art forms.
This cursive script (see p33) was painted by Huai Su
(AD 737) in typically wild movements that
combine delicate and forceful strokes.
Celadon Ware
Celadon’s simple beauty and strength
made it highly desirable. This example
of Longquan ware from the Southern Song
dynasty (1127–1279) elegantly captures
the movement of the coiled dragon.
Second
Key to Floorplan
floor
Bronzes Jade
Sculpture Furniture
Ceramics Coins
Zande Lou ceramics Ethnic minorities gallery
Zande Lou Ceramics is a
privately donated collection
Paintings Temporary exhibitions of 130 pieces and includes
Calligraphy Non-exhibition space some outstanding Qing
Seals imperial items.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp559–60 and pp575–77
SHANGHAI 197
Fourth
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
floor
Practical Information
201 Renmin Avenue, People’s
Square. Tel (021) 6372 3500.
Open 9am–5pm daily (last entry
one hour before closing). 7 8
9=-0
∑ shanghaimuseum.net
Transportation
q People’s Square.
Jade Gallery
Sculpture in jade, the quintessential
Chinese stone, reached its peak in
the Qing dynasty (1644–1911), as
exemplified by this exquisite jade
gu (wine vessel).
Ming & Qing
furniture gallery
. Landscape Paintings
Liangtuxuan is a Chinese painting owes a great
privately donated deal to Daoist philosophy.
collection of paintings Accordingly, Wang Meng’s
and calligraphy. (1308–85) picture Retreat in
the Qingbian Mountain tries to
capture the powerful, almost
animate essence of nature.
. Shang Bronzes
The Seal Gallery displays This jia (wine vessel), a
examples of virtuoso burial gift from the mid-
carving and calligraphy. 15th–13th century BC,
shows great skill and
craftsmanship in its
Back sophisticated animal mask
entrance design or taotie.
Gallery Guide
The calligraphy and
painting exhibits are
changed frequently for their
own protection. As well as
the permanent collections,
the museum often shows
exhibits from other major
museums around the world.
Main entrance
198 CENTRAL CHINA
Yu Gardens Bazaar
Despite being a bit of a tourist
trap, there is plenty of fun to be
had wandering among the stalls
and haggling over prices.
Street Performers
Every now and then
a colorful troupe of
performers appears
bearing young children on
top of poles to entertain
the thronging crowds.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp559–60 and pp575–7
SHANGHAI 199
.Huge Rockery
Reputed to be one of the
best Ming rockeries, it is
surely one of the largest.
The rockery recalls
the peaks, caves, and
gorges of
southern
China.
Garden
entrance Dragon Wall
The white walls in the garden are topped
by an undulating dragon. Note how it
only has four claws and not five like an
imperial dragon, so as not to incur the
emperor’s wrath.
8 Fuxing Park
4 Shanghai Docks
The Shanghainese proudly claim that
nearly a third of all China’s international
trade enters via the perennially busy
Huangpu River.
6 Wusong Fort
The site of a decisive battle
3 Yangpu Bridge against the British in 1842,
Built in 1993, this is one of it consisted of a crescent-
the world’s longest cable- shaped fort with ten
stay bridges – cables are imported cannons.
anchored to each tower.
0 km 1
• Pudong 0 miles 1
Old Shanghai
Until 1842, Shanghai was a minor Chinese river port, worthy of a protective rampart but
otherwise undistinguished. In that year the Chinese government capitulated to Western
demands for trade concessions, resulting in a number of ports along China’s eastern
seaboard, including Shanghai, becoming essentially European outposts. Their key feature
was that of extra-territoriality – foreign residents were answerable only to the laws of their
own country. Thus the Americans, British, and French had their own “concessions” –
exclusive areas within the city with their own police forces and judiciary – a situation that
attracted not only entrepreneurs, but refugees, criminals, and revolutionaries. This mix was
a potent one and Shanghai’s reputation for glamor and excess derives from the politically
combustible period between the two world wars. It all came to an end in the 1940s with
the Japanese invasion and wartime occupation of Shanghai.
The Racecourse,
located in the area of
today’s People’s
The Great World was a Square, was a part of
quintessential Shanghai expatriate life, where,
creation, a mixture of just as in the
freakishness, fashion, sex, numerous clubs and
and theater under one roof, institutions for non-
owned by the gangster Chinese, wealthy
Pockmarked Huang. expats could socialize
as if they were home.
Brightly colored boats alongside the lake pier at Hongkou Park (Lu Xun Park)
e Jewish Refugee
Museum script and the use of spoken At the southwestern edge of
Chinese in literature. Lu Xun’s the city is the fine villa that
Tomb, where his ashes were was the residence of Soong
62 Changyang Rd. q Dalian Road. interred in 1956 on the 20th Qingling, wife of the
Tel (021) 6512 6669. Open 9am– anniversary of his death, is also in revolutionary leader Dr. Sun
5pm daily (last adm 4:30pm). the park. To the right of the Yat-sen. All the Soong siblings –
main park entrance is a three sisters and a brother –
From 1933 to 1941, Memorial Hall dedicated came to wield a lot of influence
Shanghai absorbed to the novelist, where in China. Of the three sisters,
30,000 Jewish visitors can view early Soong Meiling married Chiang
refugees fleeing editions of his work and Kai-shek, the head of the
persecution in Europe. his correspondence with Nationalist Republic of China
This museum is housed various intellectuals from 1928 to 1949; Ailing
in a former synagogue. including George Bernard married H. H. Kung, the director
The focus is on Shaw. Just to the south is of the Bank of China and Soong
photographs and Lu Xun’s Former Resi- Qingling married Sun Yat-sen.
refugees’ stories. Statue, Lu Xun’s Tomb dence, where he spent Her brother, known as T. V.
the final three years of Soong, became Chiang Kai-
his life at a house on shek’s finance minister. Soong
r Lu Xun Park Shanyin Road. Qingling stayed in China once
the Communists took over
P Lu Xun’s Former Residence and became an honorary
2288 Sichuan Bei Rd. q Hongkou. Tel 9 Dalu Xincun, Shanyin Rd. Tel (021) Communist heroine. She lived
(021) 6540 0009. Open 6am–6pm. 5666 2608. Open 9am–4pm Tue– in Shanghai after her husband’s
Sun. & death, initially in the house they
To the north of Suzhou Creek and had shared in the former French
Waibaidu Bridge lies the Japanese Concession (see p200), before
t Soong Qingling’s
section of the former moving to this villa. She died in
International Settlement, which Former Residence Beijing in 1981.
once had a Zen temple, a The house is a charming
Japanese school, and specialist example of a mid-20th-century
Japanese shops. The area’s most 1843 Huaihai Middle Rd. q Hengshan Shanghai villa. It has some
Rd. Tel (021) 6437 6266. Open
interesting spot is Lu Xun Park – wonderful wood paneling and
9am–5:30pm daily. &
a pleasant place to watch the lacquerwork. Her limousines
Chinese taking boat rides, playing
chess, practicing tai ji quan, or
simply relaxing. Originally known
as Hongkou Park, it now has
a name that reflects its strong
associations with the great
Chinese novelist Lu Xun (1881–
1936), who lived nearby. His most
famous work is The True Story of
Ah Q, which lampooned the
Chinese national character. Lu
Xun was also an early proponent
of the baihua or plain speech
movement, which championed
the simplification of the Chinese Soong Qingling’s Former Residence – a charming early 20th-century villa
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp559–60 and pp575–7
SHANGHAI 205
y Xujiahui Catholic
Cathedral
DIRECTORY
Shops and Markets Performing Arts Shanghai Dramatic Bars and
and Music Arts Center Nightclubs
Plaza 353 284 Anfu Rd.
Nanjing East Rd. House of Blues Tel (021) 6473 4567.
Big Bamboo
Tel (021) 6353 5353. & Jazz 132 Nanyang Rd.
∑ china-drama.com
60 Fuzhou Rd. Tel (021) 6256 2265.
Clothes and Tel (021) 6323 2779. Shanghai Grand
Boxing Cat Brewery
Textiles ∑ houseofblues Theater
82 & 519–521 Fuxing Rd.
andjazz.com 300 Renimin Avenue.
Isetan Tel (021) 6431 2091.
Tel (021) 6372 8701.
1038 Nanjing West Rd. JZ Club Constellation
Shanghai Music
Tel (021) 6218 7878. 46 West Fuxing Rd 86 Xinle Rd.
Conservatory
(near Yongfu Rd). Tel (021) 5404 0970.
No. 1 Department Auditorium
Tel (021) 6431 0269.
Store 20 Fenyang Rd. El Coctel
∑ jzclub.cn/en
830 Nanjing Rd Pedestrian Tel (021) 6431 3701. 2/F, 47 Yongfu Rd.
St. Tel (021) 6322 3344. Lyceum Theater ∑ shcnmw.com Tel (021) 6433 6511.
57 Maoming South Rd. Shanghai Oriental The Geisha
W. W. Chan & Sons
Tailor Ltd. Tel (021) 6217 8530. Art Center 390 Shaanxi South Rd.
129-A02 Maoming South Majestic Theater 425 Dingxiang Rd, Pudong. Tel (021) 6403 0244.
Rd. Tel (021) 5404 1469. 66 Jiangning Rd. Tel (021) 6854 1234.
Glamour Bar
Tel (021) 6217 4409. ∑ en.shoac.com.cn
at M on the Bund, 6/F,
Arts and Crafts Yifu Theater 20 Guangdong Rd.
Mercedes-Benz
Duo Yun Gallery Arena 701 Fuzhou Rd. Tel (021) 6329 3751.
422 Nanjing Rd Pedestrian 1200 Expo Avenue. Tel (021) 6351 4668.
Lola
St. Tel (021) 3313 4800. Tel 400 181 6688. Building 4, 570 Yongjia Rd.
∑ mercedes-
Cinemas
Room With a View Tel 138 1692 7970.
479 Nanjing East Rd. benzarena.com Shanghai Film Art Long Bar
Tel (021) 6352 0256. Center Waldorf Astoria Hotel,
Shanghai Center 160 Xinhua Rd. 2 The Bund (Zhongshan
Shanghai Museum 1376 Nanjing West Rd. Tel (021) 6280 6088. Yi Lu).
201 Renmin Dadao. Tel (021) 6279 8600 /
Studio City Tel (021) 6322 9988.
Tel (021) 6372 3500. (021) 6279 8663 (theater).
∑ shanghaicentre.com 10/F, 1038 Nanjing Malone’s
Shanghai Pearl City West Rd. 255 Tongren Rd.
558 Nanjing East Rd. Tel (021) 8537 9075.
Shanghai Circus Tel (021) 6247 2400.
Tel (021) 6322 3911.
World UME International X Bistro
Yu Yuan Bazaar 2266 Gonghe New Rd. Cineplex (Baoshan) Block 33, Sinan Mansions,
269 Fangbang Middle Rd Tel (021) 6652 5468. Nuoya Xintiandi Square, 45 Sinan Rd.
(Shanghai Old Street). ∑ era-shanghai.com/ 318 Mudanjiang Rd.
Tel (021) 6655 9999. era/en Tel (021) 3655 5580.
CENTRAL CHINA 209
The provinces of Jiangsu and Anhui lie to the north and west ANHUI
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities t Tunxi Key
1 Suzhou y Shexian
u Yixian
Expressway
2 Tongli
3 Zhouzhuang Lakes, Reserves & Areas of National Highway
4 Wuxi Natural Beauty Minor road
7 Changzhou
5 Tai Hu Railroad
8 Zhenjiang
6 Yixing County Provincial border
9 Yangzhou
r Jiuhua Shan
0 Nanjing
i Huang Shan pp242–3
q Bozhou
w Hefei
e Wuhu
Ganyu
Lianyungang
G30 Xinyi G30
Guanyun
G2
Xuzhou
G1
G35
Suqian 5
5
G2
Sheyang
Suzhou
Guoyang Huaiyin
Sixian Yancheng
Taihe
Ying Hongze
5
Wuhe Hu
Ye l l o w
G2
H
G15
G36
e
G2
Huainan Rugao
6
Chuzhou
G35
G42 Nantong
G40 G4
G40 0
Jinzhai G5
Lu’an Feixi 01
1 Ma’anshan
G4
2
Chao Hu ) Tai
Tongcheng Jian g G25
Hu
ng Shanghai
ha
(C
zi G50
ng Xuancheng
0 Ya 60
G
G5 Jiaxing
G3 Ningguo
Anqing
Po Hu G56 Hangzhou
G35
25
0 km 100
G
0 miles 100
Jiujiang
Walkway along a rock face in Anhui province For additional map symbols see back flap
210 CENTRAL CHINA
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
32 miles (50 km) NW of Shanghai.
* 6,000,000. n 345 Shiquan
Jie, (0512) 6530 5887.
∑ envisitsz.com
Transportation
£ Suzhou train station.
@ North bus station, Nanmen
Station, Wu Xian station.
4 tours of Grand Canal.
Xuanmiao Guan
94 Guanqian Jie. Tel (0512) 6777 5479.
Open 7:30am–4:45pm daily. &
Mural in the Hall of Literary Gods, Xuanmiao Guan The Daoist Temple of Mystery was
founded during the Jin dynasty
E Museum of Opera and lyrics, masks, and costumes. but, like many Chinese temples,
and Theater Other exhibits include a has been rebuilt many times. The
14 Zhongzhangjia Xiang. Tel (0512) life-size orchestra and vivid Hall of the Three Pure Worshipers
6727 3334. Open 8:30am–4:30pm photographs of dramatists dates to the Song dynasty, and
daily. &∑ kunopera.com.cn and actors. Traditional Suzhou is the largest ancient Daoist hall
Housed in a beautiful Ming Opera, known as kun qu or kun in China. The intricate structure
dynasty theater of latticed ju, is renowned as the oldest of the roof in particular is worth
wood, the Museum of Opera form of Chinese opera, with a scrutiny. Located in Suzhou’s
and Theater (Kunqu Bowuguan) history of about 5,000 years. commercial center, the temple
is a fascinating and highly visual The museum is the venue for was associated with popular
museum. Its display halls are occasional performances, while street entertainment, and
filled with examples of old the adjacent teahouse stages although the musicians and
musical instruments, delicate daily shows of kun-style opera jugglers have gone, it retains
hand-copied books of scores and music. a casual atmosphere.
North
Suzhou City Center Train
Station Bus Station
I LU
Tiger Hill XI HU
1 Beisi Ta
Tourist Boat PIN GQ I LU Humble
2 Suzhou Silk Museum Pier Administrator’s
Garden
3 Suzhou Museum Suzhou E
Suzhou Silk Beisi Ta BEI JI
Museum DONG
4 Humble Administrator’s Museum
PIN GJI AN G
YU A N
JIE
Garden XIBEI
LU
Shizi Lin
RENMIN
LI N LU
Ou Yuan
5 Shizi Lin
LU
6 Ou Yuan DONG
CANG
B A I TA
HI BAI TA XI LU
7 Museum of Opera and DON G ZHO NGS
LIND
LU
PING
ZH ON GJ
JI E
Theater Xuanmiao
UN L
Xi Yuan,
JIAN
LU
DONG
q Silk Embroidery Research GA N JIANG
CH
Yangyuxiang Shuang Ta
FENGHUANG
AN
WUZH
GX
w Wangshi Yuan
U
LU
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JIE
JIE
D AO Q I A N
r Pan Men Scenic Area
SI Q IA
IN LU
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Wangshi
Canglang Yuan
EN L
DONG
Ting
Confucian
U
Temple
LU
DA
0 km 1 ZHUHUI
NAN YUA N LU
LU
XINSHI
0 miles 1 Nan Men
JIE
Bus Station
Pan Men
Scenic Area
LU
NA N ME N
Wu Xian
Bus Station
Key to Symbols see back flap
212 CENTRAL CHINA
KEY
Practical Information
178 Dongbei Jie, Suzhou.
Tel (0512) 6751 0286.
Open 7:30am–5pm daily
& includes the Garden Museum.
- = ∑ en.szzzy.cn
1 Entrance
2 Eastern Garden
3 Garden Museum 0 meters 100
Orange Pavilion
Artificial mountains were
an important element in
Chinese gardens and were
ideal for contemplation.
Entrance to the
central section
Secluded Pavilion of Firmiana
Simplex and Bamboo
The most famous view of the
garden, the “borrowed view”
(see p185) of Beisi Ta, the
Northern Pagoda reflected in
the water, is visible from here.
Imperial Gift
Silk was originally reserved for use by
the imperial household, an example of which
is this gorgeous robe embroidered with the
imperial symbol of the five-clawed dragon.
The imperial yellow symbolizes the earth.
This traditional
pattern suggests
waves and mountains
and therefore the
boundless nature of
the Chinese Empire.
Farming silkworms: the eggs are first kept at 65° F (18° C) rising
to 77° F (25° C), at which point they hatch. The silkworms (actually
caterpillars) are now kept at a constant temperature and fed
mulberry leaves at 30-minute intervals day and night until
fattened, they are ready to enter the cocoon stage.
Meaning of Symbols
Ax is one of
the 12 symbols
of sovereignty
that were reserved for the
emperor. The ax stands for
the power to punish.
Silken saliva: the silkworms’
Goblets are saliva glands secrete a clear Cocoons: when they are ready
a symbol of liquid, that solidifies into silk to pupate, with a figure-of-eight
imperial loyalty. threads as it dries, and a gum motion, they spin their sticky
These sacrificial goblets that sticks these together. secretion into cocoons.
are also symbolic of
ancestor worship.
Making silk: the
Double qi is cocoons are steamed
another of the 12 to kill the pupae and
imperial symbols soaked to soften the
that represents sticky gum and allow
the emperor’s power to judge the silk strands to be
his subjects. separated. Several
strands are woven to
make one silk thread.
Y Canglang Ting
3 Canglang Ting Jie, Renmin Lu. Tel
(0512) 6519 4375. Open 7:30am–5pm
daily (to 4pm mid-Apr–Oct). &
The octagonal Song dynasty twin pagodas, Shuang Ta The Canglang Ting (Dark Blue
Wave Pavilion Garden) – whose
Shuang Ta another pavilion that juts into name is suggestive of a relaxed
22 Dinghui Si Xiang. Open 8am– the pool is known for catching and pragmatic approach to life –
5:30pm daily. & cooling breezes. Look out for is perhaps Suzhou’s oldest
Once part of a temple, these the calligraphy by famous garden, first laid out in 1044 by a
98-ft (30-m) high twin pagodas scholars and poets. scholar, Su Zimei, on the site of
date to the early Song era. an earlier villa. His successor, a
According to an inscription, E Silk Embroidery Research general in the imperial army,
they were first built in AD 982 Institute enlarged it in the 12th century,
by the students Wang Wenhan 272 Jinde Lu. Tel (0512) 6522 2415. and it was rebuilt in the 17th
and his brother in honor of their Open daily. & century. It is known for its
teacher, who helped them pass Housed in the Huan Xiu technique of “borrowing a view,”
the imperial civil service exams. (Surrounded by Beauty) allowing the scenery beyond the
Twin pagodas are commonly Mountain Villa, this institute garden’s confines to play a role in
found in India but are a rarer creates exquisitely fine silk its design. Here, it is achieved by
feature of Chinese temples, embroidery, work that is mainly lowering walls on the north side
where pagodas were largely done by women. In order to of some of the pavilions, allowing
built as single edifices. produce the painting-like effect
of their designs, the women
Y Yi Yuan sometimes work with silk
1265 Renmin Lu. Tel (0512) 6524 9317. strands that are so fine, they are
Open 7:30am–4:30pm daily. & almost invisible. They specialize
The Garden of Happiness is in double-sided embroidery –
one of Suzhou’s newer gardens, for example, a cat with green
dating from the late Qing eyes on one side and blue on
dynasty. It was built by a the other.
government official who utilized
rocks and landscape designs Y Wangshi Yuan
from other abandoned gardens. 11 Kuojia Tou Xiang. Tel (0512) 6529
The garden appears to have 3190. Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily. &
originally covered a larger area; It is said that the Master of the
today its central feature is a Nets Garden was named after
pool encircled by rockeries and one of its owners – a retired
spanned by a zigzag bridge. official who wished to become
The best viewpoint is from the an accomplished fisherman. The Pavilion for Watching the Moon,
Fragrant Lotus Pavilion, while Dating to 1140, it was Wangshi Yuan
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
SUZHOU 217
Hanshan Si
24 Hanshansi Long. Tel (0512) 6723
6213. Open 7am–5:30pm daily. &
Gateway to the Confucian Temple First constructed in the Liang
dynasty, the Cold Mountain
views across water; elsewhere Pingjiang as it was known in Temple was named after a
the southwest hills can be seen. 1229. A star chart dating from Tang-dynasty poet-monk. A
The central feature is a mound 1247 maps the positions of stone rendition of him and his
that is meant to resemble a stars and celestial bodies in the fellow monk, Shi De, is to be
wooded hill. Gardens were ideal heavens. It is one of the earliest seen here. The temple was
places for contemplation and surviving maps of its kind. rebuilt in the 19th century, after
writing poetry, clearly visible in it was destroyed during the
the engravings of verses and Y Tiger Hill Taiping Rebellion. Located close
poems dotting Canglang Ting. 8 Sanmen Nei Lu. Tel (0512) 6723 to the Grand Canal, it was
2305. Open 7:30am–6:30pm daily. & immortalized by the Tang-
Y Liu Yuan and Xi Yuan In the city’s northwest dynasty poet Zhang
Liu Yuan 338 Liuyuan Lu. Tel (0512) is the popular Tiger Ji, who arrived here
6533 7903. Open Apr–Oct: 7:30am– Hill (Huqiu Shan), the by boat and
5:30pm; Nov–Mar: 1:30–4:30pm. & burial place of He Lu, anchored nearby. His
∑ gardenly.com. Xi Yuan Xiyuan Lu. the King of Wu and poem “Anchored at
Tel (0512) 6534 9545. Open 7:30am– founder of Suzhou. Night by the Maple
5:30pm daily. & His spirit is said to Bridge” is inscribed on
Originally a pair, these two be guarded by a a stone stele, and
gardens lie near each other to white tiger who contains the lines that
the west of the old moated area. appeared three days made Hanshan Si
The Liu Yuan (Garden for after his death and Ceremonial urn, famous: “Beyond
Lingering in), was restored in refused to leave. Tiger Hill Suzhou lies Hanshan
1953, and its four scenic areas The main attraction is Temple; at midnight the
are connected by a long corridor. the Song-dynasty leaning clang of the bell reaches the
The Xi Yuan (West Garden) once pagoda (Yunyan Ta or Cloud traveler’s boat.” The bell alluded to
belonged to a devout Buddhist, Rock Pagoda), built in brick, here was subsequently lost, and
and is more temple than garden. which leans more than 7ft (2m) the temple’s current bell was
The Jiechuang Temple, with its from the perpendicular at its presented by Japan in 1905.
tiled roof and red beams, is a fine highest point. Some 10th-century Nearby, a beautiful arched
example of southern-style Buddhist sutras and a record of bridge offers views along the
architecture. Adjoining it is the the year that it was constructed Grand Canal.
Hall of Five Hundred Luohan.
Confucian Temple
613 Renmin Lu. Tel (0512) 6519 4343.
Open 9am–4:30pm daily. &
The original Song dynasty temple
was rebuilt in 1864 after it was
destroyed in the Taiping Rebellion
(see p428). Its main hall, dating
from the Ming dynasty, has
several stone carvings including
China’s oldest surviving city
map, depicting Suzhou, or Incense burners in the grounds of Hanshan Si
218 CENTRAL CHINA
. Pan Men
This gate and attached section of
wall (dating back to 1351) are all
that remains of the city’s ancient
fortifications. It is the only land
and water gate in China.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
SUZHOU 219
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
1 Dong Da Lu, SW corner of the
city. Tel (0512) 6526 0004. Open
8am–5pm daily. & for scenic
area (including Pan Men and Wu
Men Bridge), separate fee for
Ruiguang Pagoda. 9-(
Transportation
@ from the train station, tourist
bus 2 and 5.
. Ruiguang Pagoda
This seven-story, 140-ft (43-m) high
pagoda dates back to the Song
dynasty. It is constructed of brick
with wooden platforms, and has
simple Buddhist carvings at its base.
Y Xihui Park
2 Huihe Lu. Open 5:30am–10pm daily.
Houses fronting canals in Zhouzhuang’s old town &
E Wuxi Museum
2 Tongli 3 Zhouzhuang 71 Huihe Lu. Tel (0510) 8572 7500.
Open 9am–4pm daily.
∑ wxmuseum.com
16 miles (25 km) SE of Suzhou. 50 miles (80 km) W of Shanghai.
* 55,000. @ Suzhou train station. * 32,000. @ from Shanghai,
Tel (0512) 6331 1140. &∑ tongli.net Suzhou. 4 to Tongli. Old Town:
tickets from Quangong Lu. ∑
zhouzhuang.chinadaily.com.cn
A pretty little water town typical
of the region, sometimes called
“Venice of the East,” Tongli gives A small town on the Grand
visitors a good idea of what Canal, which links Suzhou and
Suzhou must have been like in Hangzhou, Zhouzhuang was
its heyday. All its houses open once a flourishing port,
out on to a network of canals specializing in silk, pottery, and
that are spanned by dozens of grain. It attracted scholars and
stone bridges and are busy with officials who built fine bridges
transportation and trading and houses between the Yuan The scenic cable car ride, Xihui Park, Wuxi
boats. Some of its buildings are and Qing eras. The charming Old
open to the public, such as Town can be explored on foot or
Jiayin Hall, the former home of via a boat tour on the canals.
5 Tai Hu
Liu Yazi, an early 20th-century Among the sights are the Ming-
actor renowned for his rather era Hall of Zhang Residence with 3 miles (5 km) SW of Wuxi. q Meiyuan
bizarre collection of gauze 70 rooms, and the Hall of Shen’s Kaiyuan Temple. @ 2, 88, 91, 206.
caps. The other interesting Residence, with 100 rooms
sight is Tuisi Yuan, a classical connected to the main hall. The One of China’s largest lakes, Tai
garden dating from the late Chengxu Temple, located near Hu is famous for its rocks, an
Qing period. the museum, is a Song-dynasty indispensable feature of a
Daoist shrine. traditional garden (see pp184–5).
Y Tuisi Yuan The lake’s northern shores are
Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily. & fringed with scenic spots,
4 Wuxi including Mei Yuan (Plum
Garden), spectacular in spring
25 miles (40 km) NW of Suzhou. when its 4,000 fruit trees blossom.
* 6,400,000. £ @ 4 services Yuantou Zhu (Turtle Head
from Hangzhou & Suzhou. n 13 Promontory) is a favorite with
Jeifang Beilu. Tel (0510) 12301. ∑ the Chinese, with teahouses
en.wuxi.gov.cn and pretty lake views. Nearby,
Sanshan Island is a former
The highlights of a trip to Wuxi bandit’s haunt with temples
are the scenic Tai Hu (Lake Tai), and tall Buddha statues. However,
the Grand Canal, and the lakeside none is as tall as the 289-ft (88-m)
cherry blossoms in spring. Lingshan Buddha on Ma Shan
According to legend, the town peninsula, a short bus ride from
was established 3,500 years ago the other sights. The area also has
as the capital of the Wu Kingdom a handful of lakeside theme parks.
and was a center for the prod-
Sightseeing boats on one of Tongli’s uction of tin. When the mines Y Mei Yuan and Yuantou Zhu
numerous canals ran dry (Wuxi means “without tin”), Open 6am–10pm daily. &
Beijing Tianjin
This map shows the route
of the 1,112-mile (1,900-
Bo Hai km) canal from Beijing to
Hangzhou. Crossing the
Ji’nan iver traditional battlefields
R
w
llo between north and south,
Ye
Sea
Ca
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
224 CENTRAL CHINA
8 Zhenjiang
Calligraphy
Calligraphy raises ordinary Chinese script into a high art form and is traditionally
regarded as highly as painting or poetry as a method of self-expression. The beauty of
calligraphy may seem hard to appreciate for most visitors who do not read Chinese.
Freestyle calligraphy, however, which transforms ordinary characters almost into
figurative and abstract paintings, can easily be appreciated for its artistry. The Chinese
viewer, taught from a young age the basic sequence of strokes, can mentally trace the
characters as they were created by the artists and so experience their spiritual world.
As they are limited to the same eight strokes, the artists’ individual styles – the
variations in stroke weight, angle, and vigor – are easily appreciated. Experts consider
the balance and proportional weight of the strokes, the structure of the character, and
its unity and harmony.
E Yangzhou Museum
Wenchang Xi Lu. Tel (0514) 8522 8018.
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun.
Housed in a newly built
complex on the western side
of Mingyue Lake, Yangzhou
Museum contains some
splendid items, including an
A colorful fruit stall on Dong Guan Jie ancient boat salvaged from
the Grand Canal, and a large
Daming Si collection of unusual
8 Pingshan Tang Lu. Open 8am– king’s living quarters, and the woodblock prints.
5:30pm daily. & fifth level, a coffin on wheels.
Sitting atop a hill, the Temple of The tomb was equipped with Y Ge Yuan
Abundant Light dates to the 5th every imaginable luxury, 10 Yanfu Dong Lu. Open 7:15am–
century AD, but was rebuilt after including a bathroom. 5:45pm daily. &
being destroyed in the Taiping Yangzhou’s most famous
Rebellion (see p428). The central Y Shou Xi Hu garden, Ge Yuan was once
Jian Zhen Hall was erected in 28 Da Hongqiao Lu. Open 7:30am– owned by the painter Shi Tao,
1973 in honor of the monk Jian 6pm daily. & ∑ shouxihu.com and later by a salt merchant.
Zhen, who traveled to Japan in Yangzhou’s most popular sight, Its name derives from the
753. Credited with introducing the Thin West Lake is a slim leaves of its bamboo plants,
many aspects of Chinese culture version of Hangzhou’s famous that resemble the character
to Japan, he is revered by the West Lake (see pp248–9). It “ge” meaning “self.” Its central
Japanese, who funded the winds through a park filled feature is its rockeries, but it
main hall’s construction and with willow trees, pavilions, and also has some fine pavilions.
modeled it on the Tosho-dai
Temple in Nara, Japan. Nearby
is a natural spring with an
adjoining teahouse.
E Hanlingyuan Museum
Xiangbie Lu. Open 8am–5pm. &
The magnificent Western Han
tomb of Liu Xu, ruler of the
Guangling Kingdom, is five
levels deep. Its second air-tight
layer comprises 840 nanmu
(cedar) bricks joined by hooks.
The third level housed the
warehouse, the fourth level the Wuting Qiao (Five Pavilion Bridge), Shou Xi Hu
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
JIANGSU & ANHUI 227
3 Shou Xi Hu
S H IKE FA L U
4 Yangzhou Museum
U
IL
LAO HU SHA N LU
5 Ge Yuan
UY
YO
Shou Xi Hu
9 He Yuan
Shi Kefa
0 Wenchang Ge Memorial G LU
DON
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nal
YA NF U X I L U
GUOQ ING LU
Si Wang Ge Yuan G
Yangzhou
w Shi Ta
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Museum Ting E
JI
5 km (3 miles)
Wenchang Wang Shi
W E N C H A N G D O N G LU
Ge Xiao Yuan
WENCHANG XI LU WENCHANG ZHONG LU
Shi Ta Garden Tomb
HUAIHAI LU
of Puhaddin
WE N HE NA N L U
Xianhe
Mosque
GA N QU A N LU GUA NGL IN G LU
DUJIAN G LU
SUNONG LU
He Yuan
0 km 1 NANTONG XI L U
W EN
N AN T O N G D ON G L U
HU A LU
0 miles 1
LU
NG
YA
N
2 km (1 mile) TO
T O NG YA NG LU
Nanjing East Bus
Station
Key to Symbols see back flap
228 CENTRAL CHINA
Fuzi Miao
Gongyuan Rd. Tel (025) 5237 7008.
Open 9am–10pm daily. &
∑ njfzm.net
The origins of Fuzi Miao (Temple
of Confucius) go back to 1034,
while the current buildings date
Garden and pavilions at the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum to the late 19th century, with later
additions. The temple was the
Exploring Nanjing Ming emperor, Hongwu. Today, seat of Confucian study for more
Although the medieval city walls the renovated halls are filled with than 1,500 years. Its halls feature a
give the impression that Nanjing memorabilia and photographs small exhibition of folk arts. The
is a small city, it is in fact fairly relating to the rebellion, which surrounding streets are flanked
spread out. A lot of ground can overran large parts of China. by houses with long upturned
be covered on foot, but visitors After the rebels claimed Nanjing eaves and whitewashed walls –
will also need to use the city’s as their base, they came very many of which are being restored
local transportation, either the close to toppling the Qing in typical southern style. Nearby,
metro system, the compre- dynasty in Beijing, but were the attractive canal bank has
hensive bus service, or one of the eventually defeated by the Qing plenty of boats that ply the short
reasonably priced taxis. army under Western leadership distance to Zhonghua Gate.
P Zhonghua Gate
See pp230–31.
JIANNIN
IAN
4 Fuzi Miao G R
OA
GB
Jinghai Si D
JIAN
North
5 Chaotian Gong Zhongyang Men Train Station
Bus Station
6 Tianchao Gong & Xu Yuan Dujiang
HUJU BEI R O A
Memorial
7 Meiyuan Xincun
Z
Qixia Si
H
N
O
Z H O N G YA N G L U
G
SH
8 Ming Palace Ruins A
MO FA N M
A ROAD
LO
N
NG
IN
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9 Nanjing Museum X
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Purple
PA
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AD
N R
0 Xuanwu Lake
D
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G G
Xuanwu
O
IN H UNAN ROAD
AD
A
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BEIJING
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r Memorial Hall of the Victims
SH A N G
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National
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in Nanjing Massacre by
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JINXIANG
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GUANGZH U R ZHUJ
J IA N G D
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F E N G CHUAN Xincun
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ROAD
HU J U
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RD
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Station
ROA
HONGWU
0 km
NAN ROAD
1
R OA D
Memorial Hall
AN
IE
0 miles 1
NAN
Lake
Y U D AO J
PA N
A RO
TA I
AD
DA G
LO N G
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D
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JI A NK A G RO
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Taiping Heavenly
Kingdom History Museum Fuzi Miao
CHA Bailuzhou
LU AI
NG
LE R Park
GT
OA
D
FEN
Zhonghua
King of Gate South Train
Key to Symbols see back flap Borneo’s Tomb Station 6 km (4 miles)
Yuhuatal
230 CENTRAL CHINA
Zhonghua Gate
Built under the orders of the first Ming emperor, Hongwu,
from 1368 to 1386, the walls surrounding the capital were the
most extensive in the world at the time. The 40-ft (12-m) high
walls snaked 20 miles (33 km) around the city’s natural
contours. Given that the city was elsewhere protected by river
and mountain, Zhonghua Gate was a key element in Nanjing’s
southern defences. Its walls were cemented by a super-strong
mortar made with glutinous rice. Certainly the emperor’s
show of defense was effective – no enemy attempted to
breach the walls via Zhonghua Gate. Today the gate’s
impressive remains are open to visitors and an interesting
museum has been built into the battlements.
The city wall adjacent to Zhonghua
Gate, Nanjing
. Inner Citadels
Behind the main gate are three courtyards or
citadels. During an attack, enemy forces that
breached the main gate could be trapped in these
courtyards. The cavities in the walls concealed
soldiers waiting in ambush.
Reconstruction of
Zhonghua Gate
The main gate tower sat adjacent
to the top of the wall, with the
citadels protruding into the city.
Today, only the brick walls remain –
none of the gatehouses has
survived.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
. Signed Bricks Zhonghua Rd. Tel (025) 8662
Numerous bricks are stamped 5752. Open 8:30am–9pm daily.
with the name of the kiln &=
where they were fired
Transportation
and even the name of the
@ 16 from city center.
brick-maker himself, together
with the date of manufacture.
Statue of Soldier
Statues wearing replica Ming-
era uniforms are scattered
strategically about the
battlements.
Ramp
The wide ramps, which run
up each side of the gate to
the top of the city wall,
allowed soldiers and horses
quick access to the ramparts.
0 miles 1
Key
Existing wall
Path of destroyed wall
232 CENTRAL CHINA
E Meiyuan Xincun
18–1 Hanfu Rd. Tel (025) 8454 2362.
Open 7:30am–8:30pm daily. &
The former Chinese Communist
Party office was headed in 1946–
7 by Zhou Enlai (see p256), who
lived here during negotiations
with the Kuomintang after the
Japanese surrender. The restored
building houses a museum
commemorating these events.
Square Pavilion with a statue of the legendary maiden Mochou, Mochou Lake Park
234 CENTRAL CHINA
Purple Mountain
Overlooking the city, Zijin Shan, or the Purple Mountain,
is said to take its name from the color of the rocks. It is a
picturesque area of gentle hills shaded by woodland and
bamboo groves, dotted with villas. It also contains several of
the most important points of interest in Nanjing, such as the
Mausoleum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, Ming Xiao Ling, and the Linggu
Temple complex. Seeing everything will take a whole day and,
although there are food stalls around, visitors are advised to
take along a picnic. The energetic can make the long climb to
the summit for splendid views over the city; alternatively you
can take a cable car from outside the eastern wall. Statue of Sun Yat-sen, “Father of Modern
China,” in his mausoleum
Cable Car
Summit
Zixia
Lake
Tomb of Liao
Zhongkai
Purple Mountain Observatory
Alongside more modern equipment, the
observatory houses a display of bronze
instruments that date back to the 15th
century. However, similar pieces were used Botanical
by the Chinese as long as 3,000 years ago. Gardens
Nanjing Plum
City Wall Blossom Hill
Qian
Lake
Key
Road
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
NANJING 235
Museum of
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dr. Sun Yat-sen
Set in a pretty
Practical Information
building, this museum
Jiangsu province, 2 miles (3 km) E of
is often overlooked by
Nanjing. Purple Mountain: Tel (025)
visitors. Four floors of
8444 6111. Open Apr–Nov: 6:30am–
exhibits chronicle Sun
6:30pm daily; Dec–Mar: 7am–6pm
Yat-sen’s life with
daily. & = - Ming Xiao Ling:
paintings,
Open 6:30am–6:30pm daily.
photographs, and
Museum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen: Open
personal effects.
9am–4:30pm daily.
Transportation
@ from the train station. There
is a shuttle service in the park.
Linggu Pagoda
Built in 1929, this 199-ft (61-m)
high pagoda was designed by Henry
Murphy, at the behest of Chiang
Kai-shek, in memory of the
soldiers killed in the
1911 revolution
(see pp68–9).
Guanghua
Pavilion
Traditional Medicine
Medicine in China dates back some 4,000 years and evolved as a result of the search
for the elixir of life, research in which many emperors took a keen interest. Over the
centuries an approach was adopted that would today be called holistic – the importance
of diet, emotional health, and environment was emphasized. Today, treatment is still
founded on the use of herbs, diet, and acupuncture. Daoist philosophy is an integral
ingredient, the most notable aspect being qi (see pp38–9), the vital force of living things.
Qi gives rise to the opposite and interdependent forces of yin and yang, signified in the
universe and body by wet and dry, cold and heat, etc. Unlike Western medicine, where
an outside force, such as bacteria or a virus, is assumed to cause disease, in Chinese
medicine a medical problem is caused by a yin-yang imbalance within the patient. When
yin and yang are out of balance, the flow of qi has been depleted or blocked; Chinese
medical practitioners seek to return the balance.
10th-Century
Channel Chart
Qi flows through channels that Needles from Qing
radiate throughout the body from Dynasty
the vital organs to the extremitites.
This chart clearly illustrates a channel
Channel
that runs from the intestines through
the arm to the finger tips. Applying
pressure to the specified points Modern
will moderate the flow of qi. needles
Acupuncture needles
are inserted just below
the skin at pressure
points, also called men or
gates, along the
channels. Acupuncture
has even proved an
effective anesthetic.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
JIANGSU & ANHUI 239
e Wuhu
Huizhou Architecture
Shexian county is home to the descendants of a group of people who played a key
role in the Chinese economy 400 years ago. Today, the people of southern Anhui
province are mostly farmers, but from the 14th to 17th centuries, their forefathers
were the wealthy merchants of Huizhou, famous the length and breadth of China for
their commercial acumen and integrity. They used their money to build large family
houses, with whitewashed exteriors and beautiful wood interiors. The distinctive
features of these houses are a result of social and environmental factors, and are
attempts to deal with the weather, earthquakes and the risk of attack by bandits.
Many of these houses still remain, sometimes a little run down, but still a testament to
the enterprise of the Huizhou traders.
High windows
made the houses
secure from attack
by bandits.
Fishponds in the
courtyard keep the
house cool and are
decorative.
i Huangshan
Reputed to be the most beautiful mountain range in the country, the
startling, cloud-cloaked peaks of Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) have Taiping
for centuries been celebrated by poets and painters. Although the
main peak is under 6,200 ft (1,900 m), the 70 sheer rock cliffs are
spectacular to hike, and the winding concrete steps are usually very
crowded. Even when shrouded in mist as is the norm, the scenery
of precipitous peaks, bamboo groves, and ancient, twisted pines is
unusually beautiful. Accommodation is available in pretty Wenquan
or nearby Tangkou. Consider spending a night at the top for
spectacular, but not solitary, sunsets and sunrises.
Guangming Ding
(Bright Summit
Peak) 6035 ft
Lianhua Feng
(Lotus Flower
. Feilai Shi Peak) 6145 ft
The “Rock Flown From Afar,” a massive, rectangular boulder
poised at an unlikely angle, overlooks the “Western Sea,” an
endless vista of mountain peaks and cascading clouds.
Western Trail
This path, more physically
demanding than the eastern
route, cuts through splendid
rock formations, along narrow,
and very steep, flights of steps.
Shen Quan
Feng Banshan Si
5340 ft
Key
Path
Ciquan
Road Ge
Wenquan
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p577
JIANGSU & ANHUI 243
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Open daily. Cable car:
8:40am–4pm daily. &
∑ huangshanguide.com
Transportation
125 miles (200 km) S of Hefei.
~ at Tunxi. £ to Tunxi. @ from
Nanjing or Hefei to Tangkou (5 hr);
from Tunxi to Tangkou (1.5 hr); bus
from Hangzhou (4 hr).
View from the Top
The summit with its stunning views takes about 3 hours to explore. Head
to Paiyun Ting, “Cloud Dispelling Pavilion,” at the top of the Taiping cable
car, for the best views of the sunset.
. Shixin Feng
The shard-like “Beginning to Believe” peaks, rising above
woodland and glistening streams, offer one of the most
Tiandu Feng spectacular views at Huangshan. Access is via the Immortals’
(Celestial Capital Peak) Bridge at the eastern end of the summit.
6005 ft
. Aoyu Bei
On the approach to Tiandu Feng, Aoyu Bei (the Carp’s
0 km 0.5
Backbone), is a disconcertingly exposed and narrow 30-ft
Tangkou 0 miles ½ (9-m) arch with sheer drops down both sides.
For additional map symbols see back flap
CENTRAL CHINA 245
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty,
1 Hangzhou Islands & Mountains
2 Shaoxing 4 Putuo Shan pp254–5
3 Ningbo 5 Tiantai Shan
7 Wenzhou 6 Yandang Shan
8 Nanchang 0 Lu Shan pp258–9
9 Jiujiang w Jinggang Shan
q Jingdezhen Shanghai
G25
G50
Huzhou Jiaxing
Wangpan
G3
Yang
G92
G56
G35
5
G2
G60
Ruichang Shangyu
6 Tonglu
G5 Huangshan Shengzhou
5
G1
De’an
Poyang Lanxi Ninghai
Yongxiu Hu g
Jian Jinhua
Qu Tiantai
G3
G70
Leping
G45
Dexing
Xinjian Quzhou
Huangyan
Shangrao Jiangshan Taizhou
Shanggao 15
0 G
g G6
Jin Jian Lishui
Xinyu Yingtan
Yichun
Fuzhou
G3
Pingyang
Nanfeng
Ji’an
5
G3
Taihe
G7
2
Ningdu
Suichuan
G4
Yudu Key
5
Ganzhou Ruijin
Expressway
Nankang
Xinfeng National Highway
Railroad
0 km 100
G45
Xunwu
Provincial border
0 mile 100
Boats on West Lake, Hangzhou, with Leifeng Pagoda in the background For additional map symbols see back flap
246 CENTRAL CHINA
West Bus
HUA
Station RO
CH U
NCH
NG
N GSHA
Qixia Shan UA RO
UG
ENG
SH A
4 Hu Qingyu Tang Museum Huanglong Dong Park
D
XI RD
Fengqi Lu
N BEI ZHON GSHA
QINGCHUN
Baopu Daoist Compound
RO
ROAD
BIN
5 West Lake
AD Longxiangqiao
Yue Fei Mu RO
6 Tea Museum BEI SH AN
Bai
Causeway
AD
RO
X I SH A N R OA
JIEFANG
7 Longjing Village Lake Tours
N ZHON G
IN
ROAD
Jetty
GY
8 Lingyin Si LI N
Impression
Dingan Lu
West Lake
9 Six Harmonies Pagoda Xi Li XINCHENGZHA
N ROAD
Hu Art
D
West Lake
ROAD
Lingyin Si Su Institute
Causeway HEF ANG JIE
Museum of
Xiaoying Chinese Medicine Train Station
Island 800m (900 yards)
AD
ZHO N G HE
NAN ROAD
Tea Museum
RO
W
AN
Huagang
G
Gongyuan OA D
AN R
IN
J ON
S
N
G Lin Biao’s SH GLIN
LO N GR
Former Residence NA OAD
OAD
R
AO
HUP
ELONG RO
MANJU
Longjing
AD
Village
Zoo
0 km 1
Hupaomeng
0 miles 1 Quan Gongyuan D
AR
EV
UL
BO er
Riv
A
GD
Six Harmonies
FUX
IN ng
Pagoda nta
Qia
Key to Symbols see back flap
248 CENTRAL CHINA
West Lake
Long considered one of the scenic wonders of China,
covering over 3 square miles (8 sq km), West Lake (Xi
Hu) is situated at the heart of Hangzhou. Surrounded
by gentle green hills, the lake’s willow-shaded
causeways and fragrant cover of lotus blossoms have
long been an inspiration for artists. Originally the lake
was an inlet off the estuary of the Qiantang River,
becoming a lake when the river began to silt up in . Three Pools Reflecting the Moon
the 4th century. The lake had a tendency to flood, so Three small stone pagodas rise from the
several dykes were built, including the Bai and Su waters near Xiaoying Island. At full moon
Causeways. Hiring a private boat from the eastern candles are placed within and their openings
are covered in paper to create reflections
shore for an afternoon on the water is highly resembling the moon.
recommended, as is a leisurely stroll along the
shady causeways.
XI LI HU
Huagang Garden
This garden is intended as a place for
viewing fish. Designed by a Song-
dynasty eunuch, its pools are filled
with shimmering goldfish in a restful
setting of grasses and trees.
KEY
. Xiaoying Island
1 The Seal Engravers Society is Often called San Tan Yin Yue Island, referring to the three moon-
open in the summer months. reflecting pagodas off its shores, Xiaoying Island consists of four
2 Zhejiang Provincial Museum enclosed pools fringed by pavilions first built in 1611. The zig-
zagging Nine Bend Bridge was built in 1727.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
HANGZHOU 249
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Hangzhou.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum:
25 Gushan Rd. Tel (0571) 8797
1177. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ zhejiangmuseum.com
Transportation
4 regularly from eastern shore
near Hubin Rd. Boats for hire on
Gu Shan Island.
. Su Causeway
The longer of the two causeways takes its name from the Song-
dynasty poet Su Dongpo, who also served as governor. Linked by
six stone bridges, the causeway is a peaceful thoroughfare running
along the lake’s western edge.
XI HU BEI LI HU
Marco Polo
Whether Marco Polo ever visited China is much
disputed. However, according to the book he
dictated to a ghostwriter who embroidered it
substantially, Polo became governor of nearby
Yangzhou for three years during the Yuan dynasty.
He describes Hangzhou as paradise and the finest
city in the world, with fascinating
markets, pleasure boats, and
prostitutes. Hangzhou was
indeed a cosmopolitan city,
ever since the Southern Song
dynasty made it their
capital. The Travels of
Marco Polo, however, may
be based on earlier
journeys by his father and Bai Causeway
uncle, and stories from Named after the 9th-century poet-governor Bai Juyi,
Engraving of Marco Polo, this dyke leads to Gu Shan, an island first landscaped
other merchants.
1254–1324 during the Tang dynasty, and now containing a
teahouse and the provincial museum.
252 CENTRAL CHINA
3 Ningbo
4 Putuo Shan
. Puji Si
Surrounded by beautiful camphor
trees, this extensive temple is located
at the island’s tourist center. The first
temple was built here in the
11th century, although the
current temple is far newer.
. Guanyin Colossus
At the southern tip of the island
a massive 108-ft (33-m) statue of
Guanyin stands near the shore.
A pavilion at its base exhibits a
collection of some 400 statues
representing the goddess in
her numerous incarnations.
Chaoyang
Dong
Bai Bu
Jin sha
Chaoyin
KEY Dong
1 Duobao Pagoda
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 255
Huiji Si
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Close to the top of
Foding Shan, Huiji
Practical Information
Temple, dating back to
50 miles (80 km) east of Ningbo,
1793, stands resplendent
off coast of Zhejiang. n Puji
amid tea bushes and
Temple, (0580) 637 7110. & for
bamboo groves.
island access, plus minimal fees for
separate sights. _ Guanyin Festival
(early Apr, mid-Aug & early Nov).
Transportation
~ at Zhou Shan. g from
Shanghai (fast ferry: 4 hrs; slow
ferry: 14 hrs), Ningbo (fast ferry:
Huo’AI sha 2 ½ hrs; slow ferry: 5 hrs), and
Zhou Shan (30 mins).
Key
Path
Road
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
Gufo
Foding
Dong
S ha n
Qian Bu Sha
Shancai The loveliest of Putuo Shan’s beaches, Qian Bu
Dong Fanyin
Dong Sha (Thousand Step Beach) stretches along the
eastern coast and is separated from Bai Bu Sha
(Hundred Step Beach) by a headland and cave,
Chaoyang Dong, concealing a teahouse.
8 Nanchang Youmin Si
181 Ming De Lu. Tel (0791) 8622 2301.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & Bayi Park:
Founded during the Han era, this provincial capital flourished Open 8am–6pm daily. &
under the Ming dynasty as a center of trade. However, it is This Buddhist temple, founded in
the Liang era in the 6th century,
best remembered as the scene of a significant uprising led by
is one of Jiangxi’s principal shrines.
the Communist leader Zhou Enlai, who took control of the It was damaged during the
city for a few days in 1927. Although Nanchang was soon Cultural Revolution, and has now
recaptured by the Nationalists, the incident started a chain of been restored. One of its three
events that ultimately led to the formation of the People’s halls has a 33-ft (10-m) high
Republic of China. Despite being largely an industrial city, Buddha standing on a lotus. The
temple also houses a Ming-
Nanchang has numerous sights, including a good museum dynasty bronze bell and a cast
and several sites with revolutionary associations. during the Tang era in AD 967.
Just south of the temple is
Bayi Park (August 1st Park),
formerly the site of the imperial
examination halls. It is a pleasant
expanse of water and greenery,
with an enclosed garden known
as Old Man Su’s Vegetable Plot,
after its Song-dynasty owner.
E Revolutionary Museum
380 Zhongshan Lu. @ 2, 7, 18.
Open 8am–5pm daily.
Housed in a striking building that
was once a hotel, the August 1
Uprising Museum was the
headquarters of the Communist
forces led by Zhou Enlai, that
captured the city in 1927. Its
Offering incense sticks in front of the Youmin Si three floors are filled with period
furniture and weaponry.
E Bayi Square Zhu De and Zhou Enlai, who led
Memorial Hall to the Martyrs of the the uprising that briefly captured P Teng Wang Pavilion
Revolution: 399 Bayi Dadao. Tel (0791) the city on August 1 of that year. 7 Yanjiang Lu. Tel (0791) 8670 4772.
8626 2566. Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. Their army, consisting of about Open summer: 7:30am–6pm daily;
The huge, open space of Bayi 30,000 rebels, held the city winter: 8am–5:30pm daily. &
(August 1) Square is surrounded until the Kuomintang forces The impressive Teng Wang
by some impressive, if slightly drove them out. Although the Pavilion was first built in 653,
chilling, examples of Soviet- operation was a failure, it is during the early Tang era and
inspired revolutionary considered a defining moment immortalized by the poet Tang
architecture. At the southern in 20th-century Chinese history, Bo. There have been about 26
end is the Monument to the and celebrated as the day of versions of the pavilion since then
Martyrs, a theatrical sculpture of the birth of the Red Army. – the latest was erected in 1989
revolutionary fervor topped by
a rifle, while the vast Exhibition
Hall is decorated with a glit- Zhou Enlai (1898–1976)
tering red star. Just north of the
square is the Memorial Hall to Zhou Enlai, one of the early members of the
the Martyrs of the Revolution, Chinese Communist Party, became the nation’s
which exhibits archival prime minister in 1949. His pragmatism and
diplomacy helped him survive the constant
photographs of events in China
upheavals of Mao Zedong’s chairmanship. To
between the 1920s and 1940s.
the West, he represented the reasonable and
affable side of the Chinese people, while to his
P Zhu De’s Former
countrymen, he was the only member of the
Residence government to understand their problems.
2 Dong Ming De Lu. Open 8am– He is credited with curbing some of the
5:30pm daily. excesses of the Cultural Revolution. When
This attractive wooden house he died, the outpouring of grief in China was
dates from 1927, when it housed Premier Zhou Enlai in 1973 spontaneous and heartfelt.
the fledgling revolutionaries,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 257
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
312 miles (500 km) SW of Hang-
zhou. * 5,100,000. n 8
Hongcheng Lu, (0791) 8620 0289.
Transport
£ Nanchang West Train Station
(high-speed trains). @ Long
Distance Bus Station, CAAC (buses
to airport). g Ferry Terminal.
Airport
Nanchang City 27 km (16 miles)
Bayi
Center Bridge YA N G M I N G L U
1 Bayi Square
ang
BA
AN LU
Gan Ji
DIESH
D A DAO
Residence Youmin
XIANG
3 Youmin Si
SHEN
Si
Teng Wang
SHAN
4 Revolutionary Museum LU
Zhu De’s
GLI
Pavillion DE Former
NG
5 Teng Wang Pavilion MI Residence
LU
BEI LU
FU HE B
SUPU
6 Provincial Museum
Bayi
LU
7 Shengjin Ta MING
DE LU Gongyuan
EI L
BAYI
SQUARE
U
Provincial ZHO
HA N LU NG LU
Museum ZH O N G S S H AN
Exhibition BEIJING
Revolutionary Hall XI LU
Museum
Z I LU
U RU
ZI L
RU
Long Distance
XIA
Bus Station
NG
BA
SHA
YI
N N
FU
D
A
0 km 1 HE
Train Station
AN
ZH
1 km (0.6 miles)
AO
ON
LU
0 miles 1 FU
G
T
BOU
LU
SHAN
IAN XI LU
A NQ
DA
ZH ROUN
SH AN DA
JIN GG AN G O
Shengjin
Ta
DA
0 Lu Shan
9 Jiujiang
Nengren Si He
KEY jun
ng
Jia
168 Yuliang Nan Lu. Open daily.
& 1 Suspension Bridge
P Xunyang Lou 2 Lu Shan Museum, housed in
908 Binjiang Lu. Open 7am–6pm Mao’s former villa.
daily. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 259
Key
0 meters 500 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Tourist information
0 yards 500 Practical Information
Path
Road Guling, 22 miles (35 km) S of Jiujiang.
Open 6am–6pm daily. & entry
to scenic area and for each site.
8-=0
Transportation
@ from Jiujiang long distance bus
station or train station; minibus
from Jiujiang ferry car park
N LU
D A JI
Ruqin
U
Hu
. Meilu Villa
NL
HEDONG LU
NA
L
N
the former villa of Chiang Kai-shek and one of
A
SH
X
his period of rule.
People’s Hall
The site of the 1959 Central Committee
Congress, during which Peng Dehui
Lulin criticized Mao’s Great Leap Forward, is
Hu
now a museum.
Yuping
Feng
BOTANICAL
GARDENS
Porcelain
Despite Chinese pottery’s long history, it was not until the
Bronze Age (between about 1500 and 400 BC) that special
clays and hotter kilns resulted in a harder, sometimes
glazed stoneware. True porcelain, however, did not appear
until the Sui dynasty (AD 581–618). A far finer type of
ceramic, true porcelain is smooth and polished, and Blue and White Ming porcelain
produces an almost crystalline ring when struck; at its most is seen by some as the epitome
delicate, it is even translucent. Porcelain became popular in of Chinese style. The elegance
of the designs and the depth
Europe during the 16th century, and the Portuguese, and of color are astounding.
later the Dutch and English, set up a lucrative trade
between China and the rest of the world.
Jingdezhen clay is the key to the quality of the As on a production line, each artisan performs a
porcelain and is a mixture of fine white kaolin single task in the porcelain-making process. The clay
and “petuntse” (a crushed feldspar rock). The is centered on a wheel and thrown into a rough
resulting fine powder is washed, strained shape, sculpted into a finer piece with scrapers, and
through silk, and dried. brushed with water to create a smooth surface.
A cobalt blue underglaze may be added before Firing is a crucial stage in making porcelain –
coating with a clear glaze of limestone ash, the fluctuations in temperature can ruin thousands of
finest petuntse, and water. The glaze absorbs pieces in one go. The best porcelain is fired inside
the blue dye and fuses into the original clay to clay “saggars” – cases that protect them from dust
form a hard glassy porcelain. and sudden variations in heat.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 261
Porcelain Timeline
Han
A key development
during this
period was the
art of glazing.
Simple pots
began changing
from everyday
items to works of art. One of Jingdezhen’s many pottery shops
Tang
q Jingdezhen Pottery Factory (Guyao
Technical advances during Cichang) gives demonstrations
the Tang dynasty saw the of the ancient techniques used
production of new types of 108 miles (174 km) NE of Nanchang. in the making of porcelain.
porcelain, most famously * 1,550,000. k £ @ n CITS, 1 The Porcelain Museum (Taoci
the sancai (tri-colored) Zhushan Xi Lu, (0798) 850 5566.
pieces illustrating figures Guan) houses a collection of
from the Silk Road. beautiful porcelain from the
For centuries the ceramic capital Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties,
Song of China, Jingdezhen is still one as well as some of the finer
Beautiful Song porcelain is
of the country’s major porcelain creations produced since the
characterized by simple producers. Although pottery establishment of the PRC in
shapes glazed kilns were operating here as far 1949. The main porcelain
in a single, back as the Han dynasty, it was market is on Jiefang Road.
rich color. the discovery of real porcelain, Porcelain in all shapes and sizes
New shapes during the Five Dynasties era is sold here, from classical-
were devel- (907–79), which period reproductions to
oped, as well as depended on locally garden ornaments and
the cracked glazing found clay rich in sentimental reproduc-
technique. feldspar, that brought tions of dogs and cats.
Yuan Jingdezhen its pre- For a view across the
eminence. During the roofs of town, visitors
Porcelain from the Ming dynasty, its can climb the wooden
Mongol dynasty location near the four-story Longzhu Ge
absorbed foreign
imperial capital of Detail from (Dragon Pearl Pavilion).
influences. Cobalt
blue underglaze was Nanjing increased its museum entrance
importance and it E Ceramic History
introduced, and later
per fected during the became famous for fine porce- Exposition
Ming period. lain with a blue underglaze. Zhonghua Bei Lu. Tel (0798) 822 1390.
Although the quality of the Open 2–5:30pm daily. &
Ming porcelain is lower than in the E Porcelain Museum
past, the main reason for visiting 21 Lianshe Beilu Lu. Tel (0798) 822
The Ming dynasty was the Jingdezhen is still ceramic 8005. Open 8am–5pm daily. &
era of imperial patronage of
production. Visiting a factory or
Jingdezhen and large-scale
exportation to the West. The one of the ancient kiln sites will
kilns flourished and the need to be arranged though
artisans returned to a richer CITS but there are also several
palette of colors and places of interest that can be
pictorial design. visited independently.
The Ceramic History
Qing Exposition (Taoci Lishi Bolanqu)
The latter part of this dynasty is located in a rural setting on
was often characterized by the western edge of town.
overly elaborate design and Displays of items taken from
poor quality, but the early ancient kiln sites around
part of the Jingdezhen and of potters at
Qing saw the work effectively make this
production of museum interactive. It is housed
delicate famille
in an elegant Ming house, a rare
rose porcelain.
survivor among the many that
would once have graced the The wooden Longzhu Ge, with views
town. The adjacent Ancient across Jingdezhen
262 CENTRAL CHINA
$IFOHEV
$)0/(2*/(
( 6 *;) 06
(VJZBOH
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p560 and p578
ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI 263
western Hubei near Yichang is the site of the world’s largest dam,
completed in 2007. The scenic Shennongjia Forest Reserve, home of
the legendary Wild Man, and Wudang Shan, known for its martial arts
school, are spectacular sights worth visiting, although remote and difficult to access.
Hunan’s fertile farmlands lured millions of migrants during the political upheavals in
north China between the 8th and 11th centuries. An important grain producer during
the Ming and Qing dynasties, by the 19th century the population had outgrown the
land, and the ensuing unrest was exploited by the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion
(see p428). The region’s poverty also had a great impact on China’s history in the 20th
century. As the birthplace of Mao Zedong, Hunan’s revolutionary credentials are still one
of its principal attractions, both in Changsha, the capital, and in Mao’s birthplace at Shao
Shan. Other popular sights include Dongting Hu, China’s second-largest lake, in the
northeast, the temples at scenic Heng Shan in the south, and the wonderful mountain
scenery of Wulingyuan in the northwest.
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Historic Sites Nature Reserves & Areas of
1 Changsha 2 Shao Shan Natural Beauty
4 Furongzhen Temples & Holy Mountains 5 Wulingyuan pp270–71
6 Yueyang 0 Shennongjia
3 Heng Shan
7 Wuhan
q Wudang Shan
8 Jingzhou Dam
9 Yichang
Danjiangkou
Shuiku
Shiyan
Laohekou
Zaoyang
Xiangfan
G45
G
Suizhou
70
G55
G4
Anlu Macheng
Jingmen Xiaogan
Jianshi G50 Han
Shu Xishui
i
Zhicheng Huangshi
Enshi Xiantao Liangzi
zi Hu
Xianfeng ng
Ya
G56
Jinshi
Cili Chongyang
Dongting
Hu
G4
Yongshun Changde
Jiang
an Yiyang
Yu G56 Pingjiang
ui
Zi Sh
G45
Jishou Anhua
Xiangtan
Zhuzhou
Huaihua Lianyuan
0 Liling 0 km 100
Shaoyang G6
0 miles 100
Hongjiang Hengyang
G60 2
G7 Leiyang Key
Tongdao Yongzhou
Chenzhou Zixing Expressway
G4
National Highway
Daoxian
Yizhang
Railroad
Guilin
Provincial border
Shaoguan
The hanging restaurant near Three Travelers’ Cave, Yichang For additional map symbols see back flap
266 CENTRAL CHINA
5 Wulingyuan
See pp270–71.
6 Yueyang
Cult of Mao
When he became Chairman in 1949, Mao Zedong was
already a figure of almost mystical stature, having led the
Red Army since 1934. He was an ideologue and whilst his
impatience at the pace of reform led to decisions that often
brought disaster, skillful maneuvering by the party meant
that he remained a heroic figurehead. The Cultural
Revolution (see pp70–71) of 1966–76, was, at the expense of
millions of lives, a calculated attempt to make Mao a deity.
The years after his death saw a diminution of his status, but Mao’s portrayal, not only as a
deity but as a man of the people,
since the 1990s his popularity has revived. Once again Mao
was part of the ambiguity of the
is considered by millions to be weida – Great. cult. Nonetheless, Mao remains at
the center of the image
surrounded by adoring women.
Poster Art
In the 1960s the Chinese
propaganda machine turned
out posters featuring Mao
by the million. He was often
portrayed as a benevolent
avatar, a god come among
the people to transform
their lives.
Since Mao’s
death the
Party has had to
tread a delicate line between
condemnation of his excesses and
praise for his achievements. His
portrait still hangs at the north end of
Tian’an Men Square and his image is
on all Chinese banknotes; perhaps his
posthumous function is as a symbol
of a united China.
Mao Attacked
In 1994 Mao’s private physician, Li Zhisui, wrote The Private
Life of Chairman Mao, in which Mao is portrayed as vain,
cold, and contemptuous of his colleagues and of the
suffering of the Chinese people.
The book was instantly banned by
the Chinese government. At the time
of publication, Li was living in the
United States and so escaped
persecution. The book provides
some surprising insights into Mao’s
Domestic shrines with a figure of Mao to habits and opinions. However, many
whom family members would address critics, even those unsympathetic to
their revolutionary prayers started Mao’s politics, claim that the book is The jacket of Li’s
replacing Daoist and Buddhist shrines simply opportunistic. biography
during the 1960s. Mao shrines are still
seen, although the Party disapproves.
270 CENTRAL CHINA
5 Wulingyuan
Often called Zhangjiajie, this 243-square-mile (391-sq-km)
scenic preserve is a karst landscape (see pp418–19) of
enormous beauty, with rocky pinnacles rising from a coverlet
of dense subtropical vegetation. Wulingyuan covers three
natural reserves – Zhangjiajie, Tianzi Shan, and Suoxi Yu –
and contains well over 500 species of tree, including the
dawn redwood, which was believed to be extinct until it was
re-identified in 1948. It is also a haven for fauna, including
giant salamanders, rhesus monkeys, and a wide variety of
birds. The park is often cloaked in fog, adding atmosphere . Xianren Qiao
but obscuring most views. Summers are excessively humid. The Bridge of the Immortals is a
spectacular, narrow, and unfenced span
of rock over a deep chasm.
TIANZI SHAN
ZHEN
ZHANGJIAJIE
CUN
ZHANGJIAJIE SHI
Kongzhong
Tianyuan
The Heavenly Garden
is an isolated outcrop KEY
covered in a mantle of
green and surrounded 1 Jin Bian Yan, a sandstone peak
by clusters of slender which stands at 1,312 ft (400 m).
pinnacles and 2 Boat trips on Baofeng Hu’s
towering peaks. pristine waters are included in the
price of admission.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp560–61 and pp578–79
HUNAN & HUBEI 271
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
190 miles (305 km) NW of Chang-
sha. Open daily. n 89 Ziwu
Zhong Rd, Zhangjiajie Shi, (0744)
829 8777. & valid for 3 days.
∑ zhangjiajietourism.us
Transportation
~ at Zhangjiajie Shi (Zhangjiajie
City). £ to Zhangjiajie Shi. @
to Zhangjiajie Shi; 1 hour tourist
bus to Zhangjiajie Cun
(Zhangjiajie Village).
8pt
Tianzi Ge
Key
In the northern part of the preserve, the pinnacle of this hill allows
views of a valley forested with dozens of fine, splinter-like tors. Cable car
Numerous underground caverns are found throughout the Path
surrounding area.
Road
Yubi Feng
The limestone
columns of the
Emperor’s Brushes are
featured on Chinese
TIANZI SHAN
NATURE PRESERVE
stamps and resemble
traditional Chinese
calligraphy brushes.
Ga
n
Xi
SUOXI YU NATURE
PRESERVE SUOXIYU CUN
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Exploring Wulingyuan
The main entrance is just past Zhangjiajie Cun.
Follow the left path for a 4-hour walk that includes
Huang Shi Zhai. The right path presents several
options, taking you, eventually, away from the
crowds. Accommodations are available in
Zhangjiajie Cun, as well as Suoxiyu Cun, which . Huanglong Dong
is a good base for exploring the east and north Although garishly illuminated, 7-mile (11-km) Yellow
of the park. Simple inns are scattered throughout Dragon Cave loses none of its impact. Boat tours drift
the reserve. down its subterranean river.
272 CENTRAL CHINA
P Yangzi Bridge
This impressive 361-ft (110-m)
long bridge was built in 1957 by
the Communists. Before its
construction, all road and rail
traffic crossed the river by ferry.
A second bridge was built a
O
short way downriver in 1995.
DA
DA
HE
NS
JIA
Ancestral musical instruments at the Hubei Provincial Museum Hankou Train Station Dazhi Road
2 km (1.2 miles)
Wangjiadun East
E Hubei Provincial Museum and visitors can see his living Hankou Bus
156 Donghu Rd. Tel (027) 8679 4127. quarters, conference room, bomb Qingnian Rd Station Xunlimen
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from the tomb of the Marquis of ∑ cnhhl.com/en Qiaokou Road
SH
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Bridge Han Sh
lacquered coffin, accompanied reconstruction of a 3rd-century ui
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Gui Shan Gongyuan
thousands of bronze, stone, and 1884. According to legend, it was Guqin Tai
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wooden items. Many of these built to honor one of the Daoist Hanyang
Bus Station GU
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explore the scenic area around for fine views across the city. On
Ya n
Dong Hu, with its many the eastern part of the hill is
pavilions and gardens.
Key to Symbols see back flap
P Mao’s Villa
142 Donghu Rd. Tel (027) 6888 1888.
Open 9–11am & 2:30–5:30pm Wuhan City Center
daily. &
This pleasant villa (Mao Zedong 1 Hubei Provincial Museum
Bieshu) was Mao’s hideaway 2 Mao’s Villa
from 1960 to 1974, where he 3 Yellow Crane Pavilion
stayed for long periods during 4 Yangzi Bridge
the first years of the Cultural 5 Gui Shan
Revolution. It is set in the Enormous bronze bell behind the Yellow 6 Guiyuan Si
grounds of the Donghu Hotel, Crane Pavilion 7 Hankou
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp560–61 and pp578–9
HUNAN & HUBEI 273
Changjiang
of a semi-mythical hero It has a few ancient relics
O
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Yangzi Ferry
Terminal Y OU P Hankou
Customs House WUCHANG From 1861, the district of Hankou
SH was the site of the former foreign
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Hubei Provincial
ZH
Museum
Zhongshan Dadao, particularly
Z HONGSHAN RD along Yanjiang Dadao and
Mao’s Villa
Pangxiejia
Jianghan Road. The old Customs
Xiaoguishan
Dong Hu House looking over the river is a
Yellow Crane Hongshan
Pavilion H O N G S H A N ROA D vast Renaissance-style building
Square
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Wuchang
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Train Station
JINGZHOU
0 kilometers 1
0 miles 1
8 Jingzhou
E Jingzhou Museum
134 Jingzhong Lu. Tel (0716) 849
4187. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
KEY
Changsha
Ganzhou
Lianzhou Shaoguan
Qujiang
Yangshan
Lianping
g
Jian
Bei
Yingde
Huaiji G UA N G D O N G
Dongnan Heyuan
Qiuling Xinfengjiang
Shuiku
The active Buddhist temple Nan Putuo Si, Xiamen
Xi
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Wuzhou
Foshan Dongguan
Luoding
Jiangmen Shenzhen
h an Yangchun
Zhongshan Kowloon
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s Zhuhai
Da Hong Kong
Gaozhou
(Xianggang)
Nanning Maoming Macau
Yangjiang (Aomen)
Wuchuan
Suixi Dianbai
Zhanjiang
Leizhou 0 km 150
0 miles 150
Xuwen
Qiongz
hou Haixia
Lingao Haikou
Key
Chengmai
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u Ga Danzhou
gp Wenchang Main road
Ya n
Dongfang
HAINAN Minor road
Changjiang
Qionghai
g Main railroad
u Lin
Other railroad
Lim Wanning
Provincial border
Jiusuo Lingshui
Sanya
Pucheng
Wuyishan
Wenzhou
Songxi
Nanchang Zherong
Jianyang
Shaowu
Jiuf
Fu’an
Fu
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Fuzhou
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Daim Zhangping
Longyan Hui’an Women of the Hui’an minority,
Nan ’an Chongwu
Shanghang Quanzhou
Tong ’an
Jinjiang
Zhangzhou
Xiamen
Meizhou Dabu
Xingning Zhangpu
Longchuan Yunxiao
Fengshun Chaozhou
Jieyang Chenghai
Puning Shantou
Chaoyang
Haifeng
Lufeng FUJIAN
GUANGDONG
& HAINAN
HONG KONG
& MACAU
Getting Around
The main airport hubs are at Hong Kong
and Guangzhou. Hong Kong offers
connections to destinations all over the
world, while Guangzhou has direct flights
to cities throughout China and Asia.
Xiamen, Fuzhou, Sanya, and Haikou also
have airports with several domestic flights.
Trains, some air-conditioned, link much
of the region although routes can be
circuitous. The extensive bus network offers
varying degrees of comfort depending
on the destination. There are frequent
Traffic moving slowly along the bustling Gloucester Road in ferry services, particularly between Hong
Wan Chai, Hong Kong Kong, Macau, and various mainland ports.
For additional map symbols see back flap
284 THE SOUTH
A PORTRAIT OF THE
SOUTH
An enduring maritime tradition has influenced life and culture in the south.
The long coastline along the South China Sea gave the ports of Fujian and
Guangdong easy access to trade routes leading East and West. Trade also
brought the British and Portuguese to the south, ultimately leading to the
colonization of Hong Kong and Macau. Only Hainan Island remained isolated
from the developments that took place across the sea on mainland China.
Guangdong and Fujian are particularly 1400s. Almost a century later, Portuguese
mountainous, and although the mountains vessels ventured up the Pearl River to
are not especially high, they have Guangzhou, an expedition that eventually
isolated the provinces from the political led to the colonization of Macau in 1557.
mainstream of the center and north of The British soon followed, but their
the country. Consequently, the south has nefarious policy of flooding the Chinese
tended to look outwards, across the sea, market with opium led to the two Opium
and over the centuries has been far more Wars (1839–42 and 1856–60), after which
inclined than much of China to deal with China ceded Hong Kong and the tip
foreigners – either by design or default. of the Kowloon Peninsula to Britain.
From the 7th century onwards, Arab Over the centuries, waves of southern
traders introduced Islam to China through Chinese migrated overseas, first to
ports such as Guangzhou (Canton) and Southeast Asia, and later westward as
Quanzhou, and took silk, porcelain, and tea far as North America, as indentured
away with them. It was from these ports labor. Their global presence is one of
that China launched its overseas naval the reasons why visitors consider this
expeditons. The Ming emperors sponsored the most familiar region in China.
the great voyages of Admiral Zheng He, The Cantonese culinary tradition is
a Muslim eunuch, who crossed the Indian distinct and known the world over. The
Ocean from Fuzhou to Africa in the early local cuisine, however, may encompass
Hong Kong Island’s glittering skyline, seen from Kowloon across Victoria Harbour
INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 285
Rice
Rice has long been vital to the Chinese as both a food staple
and a cash crop. So intrinsic to life is the grain that “Chi fan
le ma?” (Have you eaten rice today?) is one of the most
common greetings in China. Rice-growing is thought to
have its origins in southern China around 10,000 BC,
although the flooded-field method that allowed larger
yields and required massive irrigation projects was not
perfected until thousands of years later. Today, rice is grown
throughout much of China and accounts for 30 percent of Rice plants, like most other
cereals, produce dense flower-
the world’s total.
heads, with the grains tightly
packed inside protective husks.
Japonica, a sub-species
of Oryza sativa, is the
most common rice in
China, and is generally
Japonica rice short grained and
slightly sticky. Glutinous
rice, grown in the south-
east, becomes a sticky
mass when cooked. It is
often served wrapped in
bamboo leaves.
Glutinous rice
Rice Products
The Chinese have found many uses for their pervasive staple.
During the Ming dynasty, builders used water in which
glutinous rice had been cooked as mortar mix to strengthen
defensive walls. Rice straw, the leaves of the plant left after
harvest, is pulped to produce a fine white paper, perfect for
paintings and kites. Husks are used as fertilizer, packing
material, or simply fed to animals. Rice is ground to
produce rice flour that can be rolled and pulled to create
a huge range of noodles. Numerous rice wines are sold
in China, some of them quite palatable, including sweet
Shaoxing, made from glutinous rice. Extracting juice from rice to ferment and make
into jiu (wine or spirits)
INTRODUCING THE SOUTH 287
Cultivating Rice
In much of rural China, rice-growing is very
much a hands-on activity, and traditional
methods are still used, especially in hilly country.
The work is labor-intensive, but the two or three
harvests a year that are possible in the south
make the efforts worthwhile.
Rice seedlings
are grown in
special protected
Water buffalo pull plows, harrows, and other beds. After about
agricultural implements. These sturdy animals 40 days they are
thrive in the waterlogged conditions, produce transplanted by
valuable manure, and require less maintenance hand to the
than tractors. paddies.
At harvest time,
the fields are
drained before
the rice plants are
cut either by
hand-held sickle
or by machine.
Chaozhou and
Dongjiang
Chaozhou (also known as
Teochew) is a richer cuisine
than Cantonese. This cuisine
specializes in fresh shellfish and
seafood, so the emphasis is on
buying live animals or fish, be it
at a market or restaurant.
Stocks are flavoured with fish
sauce, hot sauce, or red rice
vinegar. Dongjiang is a more
rustic and salty cooking – soy-
cured bacon and air-dried
sausages are a specialty – and it Fish drying in a shop in Hong Kong
also uses more poultry. This
cooking is also sometimes Hong Kong On the Menu
known as Hakka, meaning Although mainly Chinese,
Seafood with Vegetables A
“guest people,” which refers to Hong Kong is a unique city in
popular dish of prawns, squid,
the immigrants from northern China: as an international port, and scallops stir-fried with
China who settled in the it has been open to outside whatever vegetables are
influences. So, while most of available and noodles.
the restaurants are Cantonese,
“White-Cut” Chicken A whole
you will also find all the
chicken blanched in boiling
regional Chinese cuisines here water or stock, then left to cool
alongside those from other in the liquid under cover for 6–8
Asian countries and Europe. hours. Tender and moist.
A gastromomic supermarket,
Stir-Fried Squid with Black
Hong Kong doesn’t really have Bean Sauce In fact any seafood
a specialty dish although some such as crab, lobster, or prawns
claim that “smelly beancurd” (a may be substituted for the squid.
pungent type of fermented This can also be made with
tofu) fulfils that role. Hong chilies for a more spicy alternative.
Dried vegetable and spices stall Kong is a 24-hour city and, all Eight-Treasure Stuffed
day every day, all the food Beancurd The stuffing is pork
south some time after the places, from the humble street and prawn – vegetarians should
invasion by Mongols in the stands to the luxury stick with the Eight-Treasure
13th century. Later there were banqueting halls, are filled Buddha’s Special (see p186–7).
other large-scale migrations with people eating. The story Steamed Chicken with Dried
overseas, one of the reasons goes that you could visit a Mushrooms Chicken pieces
why most Chinese restaurants different restaurant each day steamed with Chinese
in the West serve only southern for a year and never eat the mushrooms – simple but great.
Chinese (Cantonese) food. same dish twice.
Lobster with Ginger and Oyster Sauce Beef: stir-fried Roast Meats: choice cuts of
Scallions: lobster braised with beef with mushrooms and suckling pig, duck, pork, and
aromatics and served on a bed vegetables, all cut to the same chicken served cold with tasty
of soft noodles. size, in oyster sauce. dipping sauces.
THE SOUTH 291
FUJIAN
The sea and mountains form the essential features of the province
of Fujian. Its major cities thrive as coastal ports, while inland
there is the spectacular, rugged beauty of Wuyi Shan.
Fujian’s historical importance dates back almost as far as the
Warring States period (475–221 BC), when the Yue people,
defeated by the State of Chu (today’s Hubei and Hunan),
migrated southwards to settle in this part of China and
Vietnam. Those who came to what is now Fujian were called Min Yue, later known as the
Min people. Even today the Fujianese are sometimes referred to as Min and the southern
Fujian language as Minnan Hua. The native people who preceded them are thus called the
Ancient Min. Very little survives from this period, apart from the mysterious 3,000-year-old
boat-shaped coffins found lodged high above the river in the Wuyi Mountains. The main
attractions are strung along the busy coastline and include the historic ports of Xiamen
and Quanzhou, as well as Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian, which was a major maritime center
for more than 1,000 years. Other attractions are the historic stone town of Chongwu and
the small island of Meizhou, birthplace of the important Goddess of the Sea. Inland,
Fujian’s hinterland was until recently, wild and unspoiled enough to protect the last South
China tigers, now thought to be extinct. It is also the home of the Hakka people, whose
traditional dwellings can be seen at the rural settlements around Yongding (see p296).
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
Yanshan
1 Xiamen
2 Quanzhou
Pucheng
3 Chongwu
5 Fuzhou
G3
Ningde 5
G1
202
Jiangle Nanping
G7
Mi Luoyuan
0
n
Ji a
ng Lianjiang
Sanming
G72 Matsu Tao
5
G3
G2
Liancheng Yong’an
5
G2 G72 Fuqing
G7
5
G1
6
Shanghang Longyan
Nan’an
5
G7
G2
Ji a n
6 Tong’an
Yongding
g
Jinjiang
Key
Zhangzhou
Chinmen Expressway
324
Tao
National Highway
5
Zhangpu
G1
Railroad
0 km 75 Yunxiao South
0 miles 75 China Sea Disputed border
Dongshan Provincial border
Chenghai Dao
Traditional Fujian tulou (earthen dwellings) in a Hakka village For additional map symbols see back flap
292 THE SOUTH
1 Xiamen
An attractive city with a bustling nautical atmosphere,
Xiamen was known as Amoy in the 19th century. It was first
settled in the Song dynasty (AD 960–1279) but did not
become a significant port until the Ming dynasty. It also
served as an important stronghold against the Manchus
when they invaded in the 17th century. The resistance was led
by the legendary pirate and Ming loyalist Zheng Chenggong, Cannons guard the ramparts
also known as Koxinga, who is commemorated in the city. at Huli Shan Fort
Xiamen became an early treaty port in the 19th century, when
the foreign community established itself on Gulangyu Island. by a German manufacturer in
1891. Almost 46-ft (14-m) long
The city was also declared one of China’s first Special
and weighing 49 tons (50,000 kg),
Economic Zones in the 1980s. it had a firing range of 6 miles
(10 km). Taiwan’s islands are visible
President Richard Nixon. A bullet- from the ramparts – a fascination
scarred rock marks the spot for locals, who were forbidden
where Koxinga killed his cousin. entry to the site until 1984.
2 km (1.2 mile)
3 Wanshi Botanical Garden Airport
10 km (6 miles)
Hubin Nan Lu
4 Overseas Chinese Museum Bus Station
2 km (1.2 mile)
Train Station
3 km (2 miles)
A D
5 Xiamen Seaworld Dongdu Int'l E RO Xiahe Lu Bus Station
Cruise Terminal XIAH 3 km (2 miles)
5km (3 miles)
6 Statue of Koxinga Zhongshan
H U BI N XI L U
Park
7 Shuzhuang Garden AD
RO
8 Gangzaihou Beach
N
N A
ROA D G YUA N A N RO YU
NG O NG
9 Sunlight Rock AD
EN
LU TO
DA
W
Revolutionary
AD
HAN ROAD
Lu
q Yingxiong Shan
IR
AV
Jia
Seaside
HA
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Wanshi
EN
Building
HUYUAN ROA
ZH
Botanical
Sanqiutian Gardens
SIM
ING
R
O O AD
A
NAN R
O'
ICU
D
NE
B I S HAN ROA D
Huxiyan
A
Xiamen
AD
AN RO
TU NN EL
ISLAND Bishan Si
Koxinga
Memorial Hall
G
U S H ENG R
OA
Statue of Overseas
YA
D
Villa
DA
ER
Yingxiong Beach
OA
BR
Shan Xiamen
D
Shuzhuang
ID
Paotai
Key to Symbols see back flap
296 THE SOUTH
Outward-facing
windows are small
and trapezoidal
and only located in
An ancestral hall at the center of
the upper stories
the inner buildings may be used for
for security.
ceremonies such as weddings.
An enchanting view of Nine Bend Creek, with Wuyi Shan in the background
FUJIAN 297
6 Wuyi Shan
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
1 Shantou
2 Chaozhou
3 Shenzhen
4 Guangzhou
6 Foshan
Lianzhou
ng
Hezhou
5 Cuiheng
Bei
Yingde Xingning
5 G7
Temple Huaiji G3 8
Heyuan
G4
G5
Fengkai
Areas of Natural Beauty Wuzhou
Huizhou
7 Zhaoqing G80 G1
5
9 Shaoguan
Haifeng Lufeng
Luoding Jiangmen
Island
207
Wuchuan
Zhanjiang
Leizhou
Gulf of S out h
G15
Xuwen
Tonkin China S e a
Haikou
Lin'gao
8 Key
G9
Danzhou Wenchang Expressway
National Highway
Qionghai
Wuzhi Minor road
Shan City 8 0 km Railroad
G9 100
Lingshui 0 miles 100 Provincial border
Jiusuo
Sanya
Night view of Guangzhou, dominated by the Guangzhou Tower For additional map symbols see back flap
302 THE SOUTH
Kaiyuan Si
32 Kaiyuan Lu. Tel (0768) 222 5571.
Open 6am–5pm daily. &
3 Shenzhen
The dramatic Shipaotai Gongyuan fortress and moat, Shantou
85 miles (135 km) SE of Guangzhou.
* 10,500,000. k £ @ g from
1 Shantou 100,000 people were massacred
Hong Kong and Macau. n Chuanbu
for opposing the Manchu Lu, Luohu, (0755) 8247 7050.
regime. Later, during the 19th
260 miles (420 km) E of Guangzhou. century, terrible famines and Shenzhen was the first town
* 5,300,000. ~ £ @
poverty led to mass emigration. to become a Special Economic
n Jincheng Lu, (0754) 8897 2455.
Today, the remains of the Zone as part of Deng Xiaoping’s
23-ft (7-m) high Ming City economic reforms of the 1980s.
This city was originally a fishing Walls run along the banks of SEZ status transformed this
village, whose strategic location the Han River, defining the tiny village bordering Hong
on the Han Jiang estuary was eastern boundary of the old Kong into a booming metropolis
exploited by foreign traders from city center. Extending up to in a few years. Today, it is an
1858. Known then as Swatow, Huancheng Lu in the west, the important, although rather
it soon became a major center old city is Chaozhou’s most soulless, business center and
for trade. In 1980, it was fascinating quarter, where transportation hub. On its
declared a Special its historic past is visible western outskirts are a host of
Economic Zone and on streets such as theme parks. Splendid China
today it is essentially a Zhongshan Lu and and Window on the World have
modern city. The old Jiadi Xiang, with its scale models of famous monu-
quarter still has a few well-preserved Qing- ments such as the Eiffel Tower
sights of interest such dynasty architecture. and the Great Wall, as well as
as the restored 1879 To the north of Jiadi souvenir shops. The Folk Culture
Tianhou Gong, a Xiang is Kaiyuan Si, Village, a part of Splendid China,
temple with vibrant an active Buddhist displays China’s folk traditions,
carvings. Nearby temple founded in and has paintings, pavilions, and
along Anping Lu are Guangji Men, Chaozhou AD 738, with pretty shows of traditional dances. East
the remains of old courtyards and at Shatoujiao, Citic Minsk World
colonial houses and warehouses. several colorful halls, one of displays a rusting Soviet aircraft
About 2 miles (3.2 km) to the which has a gorgeous vaulted carrier, complete with aircraft.
east of Anping Lu at the water- ceiling. The grand Guangji Men,
front is Shipaotai Gongyuan, a overlooking the Han, has steps Shenzhen Theme Parks
fortified gun emplacement that leading up to a trail along the Splendid China: Shennan Dadao.
was built in the 1870s. top of the wall. Across the river q Hua Qiao Cheng. Open 10am–
is the 10th-century temple 9:30pm daily. & Citic Minsk World:
Tianhou Gong Hanwen Gong Ci, and Open 9:30am–6pm daily. &
Shengping Lu. Tel (0754) 8845 4097.
Open 7am–5:30pm daily.
P Shipaotai Gongyuan
Haibin Lu. Tel (0754) 8854 3120.
Open 7:30am–6pm daily.
2 Chaozhou
Sun Yat-sen
For many, Sun Yat-sen, who planned the overthrow of the last Chinese dynasty and the
establishment of a republic, is the father of modern China. Born in Guangdong in 1866,
he studied medicine and was greatly influenced by the leader of the Taiping Rebellion,
and fellow Cantonese, Hong Xiuquan (see p428). A failed uprising in Canton (Guangzhan)
in 1895 forced him abroad, where he spent 15 years raising money in support of his
cause (in London he was abducted and held in the Chinese legation). Abroad when the
Qing dynasty fell in 1911, he was made president of the new republic in 1912. Power
struggles soon forced him from office. He died in 1925 before he was able to establish an
independent government, with the aim of uniting the country.
Sun Yat-sen
working in the office
of his Guangzhou
headquarters, from
where he strove to
“The World Belongs to All” is a slogan create the circum-
reflecting Sun’s democratic notions: the stances that would
right to vote, the right to recall, and the lead to a democratic
powers of legislation and amendment. and united China.
Chiang Kai-shek
(standing), who, like
Sun, married a Soong
sister (see p204), used
Sun’s theories of Discussing the organization of a new govern-
political tutelage to ment in 1911, before Sun Yat-sen (second from left) Seen here as
justify military became president. He resigned when general Yuan Generalissimo in
dictatorship. Shikai sought to become emperor in 1913, 1922, Sun Yat-sen
plunging China back into civil war. established a military
government in
Guangzhou, the
base of the Nation-
alist Revolution.
E Peasant Movement
Institute
42 Zhongshan Si Lu. q Peasant
Movement Institute. Tel (020) 8333
3936. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
The city’s revolutionary
past is on display in this
former Ming Confucian
temple. In 1924, the building
became a training school for
peasant revolutionaries, who
were taught by leaders such
as Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai
(see p256). The school closed
in 1926 as the relationship
between the Communists and
the KMT soured (see p72).
A variety of foodstuffs, grains, and spices on sale, Qingping Market
Y Nan Yue Palace Gardens
( Qingping Market Chan Buddhism (see p165). Zhongshan Lu. q Gongyuanqian.
Qingping Lu. q Huangsha. Hualin Si has a main hall with Open 11am–2:30pm & 5–10pm daily.
Open daily. 500 images of luohan or arhats This extraordinary site
Just across the road from (those freed from the cycle of contains the excavated
Shamian Island (see pp306–7) is rebirth); one of them, sporting a gardens that surrounded
one of China’s largest and most broad-brimmed hat, is thought the palace of Zhao Tuo, the
famous markets, devoted to all to be the merchant Marco Polo. founder of the ancient Nan
types of produce. On sale are Yue kingdom (see p306). A
medicines, spices, vegetables, Qin general from Hebei
dried seafood, grains, fish, meat, province, he founded an
and live animals, including cats, independent kingdom after
dogs, and endangered species. the fall of the Qin dynasty.
Fortunately, the numbers of The site is covered by a
endangered animals on sale have corrugated roof, and a raised
drastically reduced in recent pathway leads past the main
years. For some visitors, the sights. To the northeast, a
atmosphere is too gory, while for paved lake and an ornamental
others it is exhilaratingly Chinese. stream are clearly visible,
while in the southwestern
Hualin Si corner are the remains of an
Near Changshou Xi Lu. q even older Qin dynasty
Changshou Lu. Tel (020) 8139 6228. shipyard. The site’s small
Open daily. museum exhibits stone slabs,
The city’s liveliest Buddhist pillars, and rooftiles, many of
temple, founded in 526, was which bear the inscription
one of the shrines visited by “Panyu,” which is Guangzhou’s
Bodhidarma, the founder of Devotees lighting incense sticks, Hualin Si original name.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p561 and p579
GUANGZHOU 305
SH
Q
I Z
A
LU
Yuexiu H
ZH
Gongyuan ON
G L
7 Guangxiao Si LU
Park U
RENMIN
A Art Museum
LIUH U Nan Yue
8 Liu Rong Si Tomb East Train Station
5 km (3 miles)
Five Rams
9 Chen Jia Ci Liuhua
Beixim Statue
J I E FA N G
Park Lake
0 Nan Yue Tomb DO
NG
XI FEN
q Orchid Garden and Islamic HU
A
G XI LU Sun Yat-Sen
Memorial Hall
SHENZHEN &
LU HONG KONG,
BEI
Cemetery DONGFE
NG ZHO NG
Lianhuashan Port
LU
w Yuexi Gongyuan Peasant Lianhuashan
LIURONG LU
LU
Guangxiao Port
Chen Jia Ci Movement Institute
Si
e Shamian Island
Liu Rong Si
YUEXIU L U
Gongyuanqian
Chen Clan
Academy Z H O N G SH AN LU Nan Yue Peasant
LO N Ximenkou
Palace Movement
Institute
GJ Gardens
J I E FA N G
IN
ZHO Huaisheng
NG W EN M I N G L U
LU Mosque
HUI
FU XI LU
NAN
Changshou
Lu
HOU LU
RENM
CHANGS
LU
Hualin Si
WENC
N LU
DAXI
IN L U
LU Haizhu Square
IU Sacred
AJ
XI Heart
H
A
N E LU
Church YID L U Haizhu
G LU
G
0 meters 800 IAN Bridge
NJ
YA
Qingping Cultural
0 yards 800 Market Park er
Riv U
Huangsha LIUERSAN LU arl L
Pe N G
JIA
BIN
FOSHAN Xidi
Shamian Island
Renmin
Wharf Key to Symbols see back flap
Bridge
306 THE SOUTH
Chen Jia Ci Less severely classical, their halls of Zhao Tuo. Zhao Tuo, a Qin
Zhongshan Qi Lu. q Chen Clan are generally lower and broader. general from Hebei province,
Academy. Tel (020) 8181 4371. Open Roofs and, as in the case of the was sent here in 214 BC to
8:30am–5:30pm daily. & first hall here, facades, are often control southern China. After
This temple, in the gloriously smothered in fantastic designs the fall of the Qin, Zhao Tuo
colorful southern style, was built and sculpted figures from operas. established the Nan Yue
in 1890 with funds donated by kingdom. Shortly after his
members of the Chen clan. It was P Nan Yue Tomb grandson’s death, the kingdom
to act as a temple of ancestor 867 Jiefang Bei Lu. q Yuexiu Park Tel was reclaimed by the Han kings.
worship and as a school. Though (020) 3618 2920. Open 9am–5:30pm, The tomb contains magnificent
obviously Chinese, these south- last entry 5pm daily. & burial items made of gold and
ern temples are quite different This is the site of the 2,000-year- precious stones, including a jade
from their northern counterparts. old tomb of Zhao Mo, grandson burial suit. Many of the captions
are in English, and a video
recounts the story of the excava-
tion that took place in 1983.
Shamian Island
Christ Church served the
Protestants among the
Leased to the French and British after the Chinese were British community at the
defeated during the Second Opium War (1856–60), this west end of the island.
island is really little more than a sandbank about half a
mile (800 m) long. Before being allowed to settle on
Shamian Island, foreigners had previously been
compelled to remain in their warehouses on
the mainland. Soon after the French settled
SHAMIAN WU JIE
SHAMIAN
American
Consulate
White Swan
Hotel
Y Yuexiu Gongyuan
Jiefang Bei Lu. q Yuexiu Park. Tel (020)
8666 1950. Open 6am–9pm daily.
Spread over 222 acres (90 ha),
Yuexiu Park is one of the largest
municipal parks in China. It is
split into several parts by
Huanshi Zhong Lu and Yingyuan
Lu. The most striking building, Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, Yuexiu Gongyuan
the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall,
is in the southernmost section founded by Five Immortals E Art Museum
off Dongfeng Zhong Lu. Built in riding five rams, who planted 13 Luhu Lu. Tel (020) 8365 9337.
1931 in traditional style with a sheaves of corn to ensure that Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
blue tiled roof, it marks the spot famine would never strike. ∑ gzam.com.cn
where Dr. Sun Yat-sen (see p303) Nearby, the Municipal This contemporary museum
was proclaimed head of the Museum is housed in the exhibits shows by major
Nationalist government in 1923. Zhenhai Lou, a Ming watch- Chinese artists. On permanent
Most of the other sights lie in tower. It has 1,200 exhibits display is an exhibition of the
the middle of the park, including dating from 4000 BC to the works of political cartoonist Liao
the Five Rams Statue – the city present, and includes a Christian Bingxiong, who was criticized in
symbol that commemorates the tract that inspired the Taiping 1958 for his Rightist leanings.
myth that Guangzhou was Rebellion (see p428). No flip-flops allowed.
JIE
JIE
DA JIE
YI
SAN
ER
SHAMIAN
SHAMIAN
DA JIE
SHAMIAN
SHAMIAN
SHAMIAN CUIZHOU
GONGYUAN GONGYUAN
E L E VAT
ED ROADW
AY
Zhu Jiang
7 Zhaoqing
6 Foshan
The grand gateway of Feilai Gusi along the banks of the Bei River
8 Feilai and Feixia located up the hillside, is often was founded in AD 502 and
being refurbished as a result of became renowned for its
regular flooding. There are, connection with Bodhidarma,
52 miles (85 km) NW of Guangzhou. @ however, some impressive the founder of Chan (Zen)
to Qingyuan. Feilai and Feixia Temples: frescoes and hiking paths. Buddhism who meditated here
4 depart daily from Qingyuan’s Wuyi
for 36 years. One of the halls
Dock. Open 8am–5:30pm daily. &
contains a statue of him, said to
9 Shaoguan have been cast from his corpse;
The busy industrial town of another has a statue of a monk
Qingyuan is the access point for 144 miles (230 km) N of Guangzhou.
walking on stilts. The bell tower
two picturesque temples located £@ has a large, 700-year-old bronze
at Feilai and Feixia on the Bei bell cast in the Song dynasty.
River, that can only be reached Shaoguan town has only a About 31 miles (50 km)
by boat. The boats, which handful of sights, such as the northeast of town, Danxia Shan
depart early in the morning and Fengcai Lou, a reconstruction is a 112-sq-mile (290 sq-km) park
return in the afternoon (it’s best of an ancient city gate, and the on the banks of the Jin. It has
to charter them with a group), Dajian Chan Monastery founded rocky outcrops in fascinating
pass fishermen whose in AD 660, but there are three shapes, with trails leading to
cormorants – trained to fish for worthwhile places of interest their summits. A boat or bus
them – sit patiently on the in the vicinity. The Nanhua Si takes visitors farther along the
prows of sampans. The first (Southern China Temple), 16 river to Danxia Shan itself.
temple, Feilai Gusi, was miles (25 km) to the southeast, Meaning “Cinnabar Cloud,” it has
founded about 1,400 years ago red sandstone cliffs, with paths
and is situated on the steep leading past hillside monasteries.
riverbank of a gorge. Steps lead About 11 miles (18 km) south
up from the river to its ornate of Shaoguan is Shizi Yan, a cave
gateway. Its current buildings where the prehistoric remains of
are mainly from the Ming Homo erectus were found. The
dynasty. A short walk through museum displays arrowheads,
the various buildings leads to a pottery, and artifacts from local
modern pavilion, from where there prehistoric sites.
are superb views along the river.
Located a short distance Nanhua Si
farther along the gorge is Feixia Tel (0751) 650 1223.
Gusi comprising two late 19th- Open 7am–6pm daily. &
century Daoist temples, Feixia } Danxia Shan
and Cangxia. Feixia is much Open daily. &
larger than Feilai, and its stone
halls and temples are surrounded Statue of a monk walking on “improbable T Shizi Yan
Open daily. &
by a fine set of walls. Cangxia, stilts,” Nanhua Si
310 THE SOUTH
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
15 miles (25 km) S of Guangdong.
* 8,450,000. n Datong Lu,
(0898) 6675 4379. _ Li People
San Yue San Festival (the 3rd day
of the 3rd lunar month).
Transportation
k £ train–ferry shuttle
from mainland destinations.
g from Beihai, Guangzhou
and Hai’an.
The pristine, palm-fringed beach at Yalong Bay the coast. It is popular for
snorkeling and hiking.
population (see p296). Close of town, with hotels,
by and accessible only by restaurants, and shops. The O Jianfeng Ling Nature
boat, Monkey Island has a area’s best beach is to the east Reserve
sizable colony of Guangxi of town at Yalong Bay, with a 65 miles (115 km) NW of Sanya.
macaques and is a popular 4-mile (7-km) stretch of pristine @ to Dongfang (Basuo) from Sanya,
day trip from Xincun. sand lined with upmarket then local bus and auto-rickshaw.
hotels. The beach at Tianya Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily. &
Sanya and the South Coast Haijiao, 16 miles (25 km) Pleasantly situated in the
175 miles (285 km) S of Haikou. northwest, is known for its mountains, this highland rain
* 680,000. k @ famous rock that appears on forest, with its huge trees, ferns,
Hainan’s main attractions are the old 2-yuan note. The other and vines as well as species of
the tropical beaches near the attraction is Ximao Zhou birds and butterflies, offers great
town of Sanya. The busiest Island, a 2-hour boat ride off walks and hikes.
beach is Dadonghai, just south
Haikou
Xinying
Gusong
Wenchang
Danzhou
Dongjiao
Yelin
Baisha Qionghai
Bawan g Li n g Bo’ao
Dongfang
(Basuo) Qiongzhong
W uzhi Shan
J IA NF E NG L ING
N A T U R E R E S ERV E Wanning
Wuzhi Shan City
Xinglong
J ia n f en g Key
Qizhi
L in g Shan Expressway
0 miles 25
The Portuguese were the first Europeans Kong’s manufacturing industry boomed.
to settle at “A-Ma Gau” or the Bay of A-Ma – It soon grew into a densely packed, high-
the region’s patron goddess – in 1557. rise city built by ambitious colonial
Today, Macau, as it came to be known, is a administrators and millions of Chinese
charming haven of pastel-colored colonial migrants escaping the turmoil
mansions and glitzy casinos, the proceeds convulsing their Communist homeland.
of which, along with tourism, keep this In its final years as a British territory, Hong
tiny region financially afloat. Kong’s status as a major financial center
In the 1800s, China’s attempt to destroy was established. Despite the 1997 Asian
Britain’s lucrative opium trade drove the financial crisis, it retains its sleek
British to blockade Chinese ports and international gloss, its enterprise,
eventually secure Hong Kong as their and its breathtaking visual impact.
own trading enclave in 1841. The area, Standing in Kowloon and gazing at the
hitherto inhabited by farmers and skyscrapers scaling Hong Kong Island’s
fisherfolk, quickly flourished. After World hills, writer Pico Iyer’s description sums it
War II and the four-year Japanese up succinctly: “a dream of Manhattan,
occupation, trade resumed and Hong arising from the South China Sea.”
with the rest of China lie the New Territories, with their Kowloon
Hong Kong
rugged mountains and most of Hong Kong’s modern, high- Macau Island
Sights at a Glance
Historic Sites, Neighborhoods Other Attractions
& Towns
4 Happy Valley Racecourse
1 Central w Star Ferry
2 Wan Chai l Ocean Park
3 Causeway Bay
7 Lan Kwai Fong Shops & Markets
8 The Central-Mid-levels Escalator q Sheung Wan’s Markets
9 Hollywood Road i Temple Street & Jade Markets
e Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront o Bird & Flower Markets Shenzhen Mai
t Nathan Road Bay Po
Islands
f Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail Fairview
k Aberdeen v Lamma Island Park
c Stanley b Cheung Chau Island Lam
Wang Sha Country
m Macau pp332–5 n Lantau Island Po Tsuen
Chau
10
Museums Yuen
9 Long
r Hong Kong Museum of Art
3
Ma
Botanical Gardens Wan
6 The Peak pp318–19
d Sai Kung Town & Peninsula Yam O
Macau 8
Beaches
Chek Lap Kok
g Kadoorie Farm & Botanic International Airport Airport
Garden Discovery
Chek Lap Kok Bay
h Mai Po Marshes 8 Peng Chau
Island
j Maclehose Trail
Tung Chung Lantau North
z Deep Water & Country Park
Lantau
Repulse Bays Island Mui Wo
Getting Around
Hong Kong Island & Kowloon
For Street Finder Maps see pp340–43 The best way to get around Hong Kong’s
central areas is on foot. The efficient MTR
TH
K O W LO O N
SOU
Hung (Mass Transit Railway), which is the city’s
NAT HAN RD
Hom
RD
G
TSIM SHA
CHATHAM
OS
CAN TA D
R
RO
OU
CR OS S HA
RO
ON
HA
RN
SALISBURY East Tsim China (see p620). Buses, trams, and taxis
TE
Sha Tsui
ES
RB OU
cheap by international standards. The
R TU NN EL
Victoria Harbour
SHEUNG Hong
Star Ferry (see p321), shuttles between
WAN RCONN Kong Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, while
D
C
AU NT
H
GHRA
O LLYW
T L
RD (CENTRAL) BAY
D
CE
ROB
I sleek Macau-bound ferries leave from
NT
NS R AL
ADMIRALTY G LO U C E S T E R
ON
RD
R RD QU
WAN CHAI their own terminal just west of the
WONG N
D
EE Y RD
N N S W AY
R D E HONG KONG JO H E N N E S S
0 meters 800 GA PAR K
H
N S T ON R
D inter-island ferry terminal.
AI
C H UN
RD
Shenzhen
Shenzhen
Lo Wu
Sheung Shui
Kwan Tei
9 Sheung Pat Sin Leng Plover Cove
Shui Fanling Country Park Country Park
Fanling Pat Sin
Range Hoi Ha Wan
Plover Marine
Chuen Cove Park
Park Shuen Wan Reservoir Tap Mun Chau
Chek Mun (Grass Island)
Tai Wo San Mun (Tolo-Channel)
Tai Po Tsai Tai Tan
Hoi
Tai Po Tolo Harbour Sai Kung West
Country Park Tai Wan
Market
Tai Mo Shan 9
Country Park Ko Tong Sharp
Peak
University Jacob's Pak Tam
Ladder Au Tai Long Wan
NEW TERRITORIES Pak Tam
Tai Lam Shing Mun Sai Kung East Tai Long
Ma On Shan Chung
Country Country Park Fo Tan
Country Park
Country Park Sai Wan
Park Sha Tin
Sha Tin Tai Mong
Tsuen Wan Tai Wei Tsai High Island
2
Golden 1
Hill
Wu Lei Tau Reservoir
Lion Rock
Country Sharp
5
Country Park
Park Ho Chung Island Kai Sai
Tsing Yi Wo Mei Chau
Kowloon
Tsing Yi Tong
3 Tiu Chung
8 K O W LO O N Tseng Lan Shue Chau
3
Mong
Kok Tseung
Hung 7
Kowloon Hom
Kwan O
Key
East Tsim
Sha Tsui
North Point Tseung Train station
Hong Kong Kwan O Clearwater Bay
Central (Junk Bay) Expressway
Po Toi O
4
Po Toi Island
For additional map symbols see back flap
316 THE SOUTH
3 Causeway Bay
The historic Noonday Gun, fired daily at noon, Causeway Bay
Hong Kong Island. q Causeway Bay.
v Eastbound (to Shau Kei Wan) explains the origins of the way through the evening.
trams. tradition, celebrated in Noel Horse-racing is a passion in
Coward’s song “Mad Dogs Hong Kong; it’s the only
A neon-lit crush of giant and Englishmen.” legal gambling opportunity
department stores, such Most of the land that available to local people. The
as Sogo, and malls like Hysan Causeway Bay stands on is industry is carefully controlled,
Place and Times Square, reclaimed, and the reclamation with only the Hong Kong
and the ever-present crowds work continues today along Jockey Club allowed to run
of shoppers is the first view of the harborside between the betting.
Causeway Bay when emerging Central and Causeway Bay. Formerly a malaria-ridden
from the MTR. East of the marsh, Happy Valley was used
MTR sprawls Victoria Park, for the racecourse as it was the
4 Happy Valley
Hong Kong’s largest public widest stretch of flat land on
park and a serene place to Racecourse Hong Kong Island. The first race
swim, play tennis, or practice was held here in 1845. Today, the
tai ji quan. Close to the harbor, huge stand holds up to 54,000
Hong Kong Island. v Happy Valley.
also known as the typhoon & For race night details, call 1817.
spectators. Racing is open all
shelter, is the Noonday Gun, ∑ hkjc.com/english year except between July and
which has been fired daily September. Happy Valley’s small
since the 1840s and retained The racecourse at Happy Valley Racing Museum details Hong
as a charity fundraising event. crackles with ner vous energy Kong’s racing history.
The enclosure housing the gun during the Wednesday race
opens for half an hour after nights, as tens of thousands of
5 Hong Kong Zoo-
noon, where a small plaque eager gamblers shout their
logical and
Happy Valley Races Botanical Gardens
Hong Kong’s punters are crazy about horse-racing. A single race at
Happy Valley or at Sha Tin in the New Territories, often attracts more Albany Road. Map 2 B4. q Central.
bets than an entire week of racing in Britain, and in 2014, the turnover @ 3B, 12, 12A, 12M. Tel (0852) 2530
reached a record HK$104 billion. The government collects significant 0154. Zoo: Open 6am–7pm daily.
tax revenues from the races, and although revenue has always been Gardens: Open 6am–10pm daily.
lost to illegal betting syndicates, the Hong Kong government still ∑ lcsd.gov.hk
took HK$20 billion in gambling tax revenue in 2014.
Opposite Hong Kong Park, just
across Cotton Tree Drive, lie
the Zoological and Botanical
Gardens, established in 1864. The
gardens house dozens of exotic
animals such as lemurs, orang-
utans,and the world’s largest
collection of buff-cheeked
gibbons, while its aviaries have a
colorful collection of birds.
Hundreds of plants, including
some ancient trees, provide
welcome shade in this oasis of
A thrilling finish at Happy Valley Racecourse quiet. There is also a playground,
some sculptures and fountains.
318 THE SOUTH
6 The Peak
Cooling sea breezes, shaded woodland walks and spectacular
views of the city, harbor, and outlying islands make the Peak
an unmissable Hong Kong experience. Ever since colonial
days, the Peak has been the place to live in the city. Governors
and rich merchants built houses here in the mid-1800s to
escape the worst of the summer heat and humidity. The
Peak’s inhabitants were hauled up the sheer slopes in sedan
chairs and coolies were employed to carry supplies to the
. Peak Circuit
hilltop mansions. When the Peak Tram (actually a funicular This flat 2½-mile (4-km) circuit
railway) was built in 1888, the trip was slashed from an hour’s offers breathtaking views over
slog to a pleasant, if alarmingly steep, 10-minute ride. Despite Victoria Harbour to the north, and
the new accessibility, Chinese were excluded from buying Aberdeen and Lamma Island to
the south.
real estate on the Peak well into modern times. Today,
anyone with the means can acquire these properties –
among the world’s most expensive. LUGARD ROAD
G O V E RN O
R ’ S WA L K
VICTORIA PEAK
GARDEN
HARL
EC
H
RO
AD
Victoria Peak Garden
A steep trudge towards the summit leads to these
well-manicured gardens, which were once part of
the Governor’s Lodge (destroyed after World War II).
Sadly, the summit is fenced off and houses
telephone masts.
POK FU LAM
COUNTRY PARK
POK FU LAM
RESERVOIR
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p561 and pp580–81
HONG KONG 319
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road.
Map 2 A5. Tel (0852) 2849 0668.
∑ thepeak.com.hk
Transportation
v Lower Peak tram terminal,
Garden Road. @ 15c at Central
bus terminal (Pier 7); minibus 1
at Central (Two IFC).
. The View
Equally stunning by day or night, the panorama of harbor activity
and highrises is endlessly fascinating. Clouds and smoggy haze,
however, often obscure the views; early mornings tend to be clearer.
THE PEAK
1,811 ft
(552 m)
D
A
RO
K
A
PE
OLD
AD
Peak Tower
RO
VICTORIA
GAP
AM RESER
UL VO
KF IR R
PO OAD
0 meters 300
0 yards 300
Key
To Victoria Peak Garden
Peak Circuit
.Peak Tram
To Pok Fu Lam Resevoir With one of the best safety records
Old Peak Road to Central in the world, the Peak Tram has been
Peak Tram trundling up the hair-raisingly steep 27°
incline between St. John’s Cathedral and
Victoria Gap for over a century.
3rd-century soldier Kwan the wet markets, while the w Star Ferry
Yu – who were deified by the fruit and vegetable markets
emperors. Their statues can sell a wonderful selection of
be seen at the back of the fruit and typical Chinese fare, Star Ferry Terminals: Central, Wan Chai
main chamber. The temple including fresh, still-steaming and Kowloon. Map 3 D2, 3 F3, 3 E1.
Tel (0852) 2367 7065. &
served as a courthouse and beancurd and rubbery “1,000
∑ starferry.com.hk
community center for the year eggs,” which are not, in
Chinese in the 19th century, fact, that old, but given an
as it sits in the historic heart aged look by the mineral Few activities in Hong Kong
of the Chinese city. earth they are stored in. These can compete with the sheer
places are not to be missed, excitement and romance of
q Sheung Wan’s
although the squeamish may jumping on these old 1960s
want to avoid the meat and ferries that chug ponderously
Markets fish sections. between Kowloon and Hong
Kong Island. They are
by far the best and
Hong Kong Island. Map 2 A2.
q Sheung Wan. cheapest way to view
the city skyline by day
The short stroll from Central’s or night. The main
slick modernity into the western route links the Kowloon
district of Sheung Wan feels like peninsula (just near
entering a different city. the Clock Tower) with
Beneath the scruffy 1950s the Star Ferry Terminal
tenement blocks, the area at Central, but it is also
between Queen’s Road West possible to reach the
and Wing Lok Street teems Convention Centre
with Chinese medicine and and Wan Chai from
dried seafood wholesalers. This Kowloon aboard these
is the world’s largest center jolly green boats.
for the shark’s fin trade, an Touted as Hong Kong
exorbitantly priced delicacy, Island’s most
usually used in soups. The piles dependable sight,
of fins on view explain why the Star Ferry service
the world shark population is was started by Mr.
fast declining. Dorabjee Nowrojee, a
Apart from dried goods, Parsi gentleman, way
fresh produce is available in back in 1898. At that
the many fruit, vegetable, and time, the only people
“wet” markets clustered around allowed on first-class
Gage Street. Live produce, of decks were Europeans,
the feathered, finned or and a collar and tie
webbed kind, is usually sold in Fresh fruit piled high at a market in Sheung Wan were obligatory.
322 THE SOUTH
y Hong Kong
Science Museum
The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is a Kowloon. Map 1 B4. q Tsim Sha Tsui.
popular tourist destination with
some of the ritziest arcades, Also known as the Golden Mile
museums, and hotels in the city. on its lower reaches, Nathan
The Star Ferry (see p321) pier is Road is Kowloon’s main
also located here. East of the transportation artery. Running
pier is the Hong Kong Cultural north through the center of the
Centre, which houses a concert peninsula, it is bright, busy, and
hall and theater. Adjacent to the packed with hotels
Centre is the Space and shops. The term
Museum, ideal for Golden Mile,
children with its however, flatters the
interactive exhibits area – far more
and space theater. glitzier enclaves can
Other attractions be found in Central.
include the Avenue Neon sign, Nonetheless a stroll
of Stars honoring the Nathan Road along Nathan Road is Model of a DNA molecule at the Hong Kong
city’s film greats and an definitely an essential Science Museum
elevated walkway for views of Hong Kong experience. You’ll
the city skyline. find crowds of shoppers and
workers, tangled neon signage, u Hong Kong
r Hong Kong bustling tailoring shops, and the Museum of History
stark contrast between smart
Museum of Art hotels, Cantonese canteens,
and grim tenement blocks, such 100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha
10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Map 1 as the once-notorious Tsui East.q Tsim Sha Tsui. Map 1 C3.
B5. q Tsim Sha Tsui. g Star Ferry. Tel Chungking Mansions, making Tel (0852) 2724 9042. Open 10am–
(0852) 2721 0116. Open 10am–6pm for a chaotic and insightful 6pm Mon, Wed–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat,
Fri–Wed (10am–7pm Sat, Sun and journey. The road’s far northern Sun & public hols. & free Wed.
∑ hk.history.museum
public hols). & free Wed. ∑ hk.art. end offers glimpses of the past.
museum Here, the ramrod-straight
Boundary Street still marks the The pursuit of profit and the
The Museum of Art is renowned line of the 1860 border, the year resulting change of pace in
for its exhibitions of traditional Britain forced China to cede much of Hong Kong has
Chinese watercolors, calligraphy. Kowloon to expand the eroded most of its historical
and exquisite craftware from burgeoning island colony. and cultural heritage. The
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p561 and pp580–81
HONG KONG 323
Wong Tai Sin Temple, one of Hong Kong’s busiest places of worship
326 THE SOUTH
s 10,000 Buddhas
Monastery
Tam Chung Visitor Centre. Maps g Kadoorie Farm (380-ha) park the last refuge
are available here for numerous and Botanic for many species. Apart from
walks, including a worthwhile herons and egrets, otters and
nature trail. Take a taxi or bus 94. Garden the very rare black-faced spoon-
Alternatively, hire a kaido, a bill can be seen. There are
small ferry, from Sai Kung Town Lam Kam Rd, New Territories. £ Tai numerous bird hides for keen
for a tour of the many small Po Market MTR then 64K bus. Tel bird-watchers. Contact HKTB
islands off the peninsula. It is easy (0852) 2483 7200. Open 9:30am–5pm (see p339) for details of guided
to find eager operators near the daily, but check in advance for weekend tours. Nearby, the
jetty, although without speaking irregular closed days. ∑ kfbg.org.hk government-run Hong Kong
Cantonese, travelers will need a Wetland Park explores the area’s
map to point out where they This working organic farm and diverse ecosystems and occupies
would like to go, as most of the wildlife refuge is nestled in the a 150-acre (61-ha) area.
operators don’t speak English. wooded foothills of Hong
Kong’s tallest mountain, 3,140-ft
(957-m) high Tai Mo Shan. It j MacLehose Trail
is a great place to escape the
crowds and modernity of New Territories. Tai Mo Shan: taxi from
downtown, with an easy hike Tsuen Wan MTR. ∑ hiking.gov.hk
to the top. There are terraced
vegetable plots and groves of Strung east–west across the
fruit trees, a small enclosure middle of the New Territories,
of orphaned animals, including this 62-mile (100-km) route
wildcats, deer, and birds of prey, takes in huge, wild, and high
and a walking trail. You will areas from Tuen Mun in the
need a good half-day to see west to the lovely Sai Kung
everything the farm has to offer. Peninsula in the east. The trail
is divided into 10 manageable
stages, and it is possible to
h Mai Po Marshes walk for long stretches without
seeing a soul. One of the most
One of the buildings along the Lung Yeuk New Territories. q Sheung Shui MTR scenic sections takes in Tai Mo
Tau Heritage Trail then 76K bus or taxi. Tel (0852) 2471 Shan, Hong Kong’s highest
6306. 8 on weekends. & Permits: peak with views, on a clear
f Lung Yeuk Tau day, down to the distant city.
deposit and advanced booking
Heritage Trail required. ∑ wwf.org.hk; The far eastern stage is also
∑ wetlandpark.com very beautiful, concluding
at Tai Long Wan’s lovely
Fanling, New Territories. q Fanling Wedged between Hong beaches (see p326). Sturdy
MTR, then 54K minibus. Kong and the urban sprawl shoes, fluids, and maps (from
of Shenzhen, this globally the Government Publications
For a glimpse of pre-colonial important wetland is home Centre) are essential. The
times in rural Hong Kong, to a range of wildife species. record for completing the
spend a couple of hours Pollution has taken its toll entire trail is just under 11
exploring the mile-long Lung elsewhere along the Pearl River hours as part of the annual
Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail near delta, making this 940-acre Oxfam Trailwalker race.
Fanling. This passes five wais
(walled villages) and six tsuens
(villages), mostly built by the
Tangs, one of the five great New
Territory clans. The buildings are
in various states of repair, from
dilapidated ruins to pristine
walled compounds and some
modern houses. Most of these
are still lived in. Among the
best-preserved buildings is
the large Tang Chung Ling
Ancestral Hall, founded in
1525 and still used today by
the Tangs to pay respects to
their ancestors and to hold
celebrations. Tong Kok, a wai,
also has dozens of old houses. A scenic waterway in Mai Po Marshes
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p561 and pp580–81
328 THE SOUTH
k Aberdeen bustle and atmosphere. The The first and most famous of the
boat-filled harbor is the big floating restaurants, it is a massive,
attraction in Aberdeen as it is palatial hulk that is part Las
Hong Kong Island. @ 70 from the center of all activity. Many of Vegas-style casino and part
Central’s Exchange Square bus station. the boats found here are actually Chinese temple, with the
part-time residences for Hong kitchen producing upmarket
Once a quiet fishing village, Kong’s fishermen and their Cantonese classics.
Aberdeen is today the largest families; so much so that the
separate town on Hong Kong district still has the characteristics
Island, with a population of of a traditional fishing village. l Ocean Park
more than 60,000. Named in Tiny sampans dodge among
1845 after the British Colonial the wooden fishing fleet and
Secretary, the Earl of Aberdeen, the large, palatial floating 180 Wong Chuk Hang Road,
the harbor housed Hong Kong’s restaurants. Pushy operators Aberdeen. @ Ocean Park City Bus
629 from Central Star Ferry and
first dockyard, which was built on the waterfront offer tours
Admiralty MTR. Tel (0852) 3923 2323.
in the 1860s. by sampan that take visitors
Open 10am–7pm daily.&
A short bus ride from Central past the fishing boats, the ∑ oceanpark.com.hk
(see p316), the Aberdeen district houseboats, and small harbor-
has a rather unattractive town side shipyards.
center, edged by massive high- Alternatively, for a quicker With the arrival of a mega-
rise apartment blocks, commer- (and free) tour, jump aboard the competitor in the shape of
cial towers, and factories. What shuttles to the floating restaurants Lantau Island’s Disneyland (see
it lacks in aesthetic appeal, moored here, such as the p331), Ocean Park, Hong Kong’s
however, it makes up for in Jumbo Floating Restaurant. first amusement park, has
fought back with several new
attractions. It is much better
than it ever was, gives Disney
a run for its money, and attracts
great crowds of people every
day. There is plenty to do for
adults and children alike, and it’s
easy to spend a day exploring
the eight themed areas of this
pleasant complex. The Waterfront
area is one of the most enjoy-
able sections, with a collection
of Asian animals, including the
theme park’s pride, four giant
pandas. A scenic cable car skirts
The garish Jumbo Floating Restaurant lights up Aberdeen Harbour the edge of Deep Water Bay,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p561 and pp580–81
HONG KONG 329
n Lantau Island
b Cheung Chau
Island
Hong Kong
International
Airport
Discovery Bay
Discovery Bay is a
slightly surreal dormitory
community, where
residents get about in
Tung golf buggies. A jet ferry
Chung connects to Central.
Ngong Ping Mui Wo
Li n Fa Sh an
Po Lin Mui Wo, location of
Monastery the island’s main pier,
Lantau T ai T un g Shan
P ea k
has several restaurants,
Pui O bars, and a beach.
Key
National Highway
Major road
Minor road
Lantau Peak
The only way up this 3,065-ft Railroad
(934-m) high peak is via a
steep path through tea
gardens. It is an ideal spot for
watching the sunrise.
For additional map symbols see back flap
332 THE SOUTH
A.
Macau City Center DE
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.S
EP
Lago Airport
DA R
Taipa,
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A Macau Island
Tower
Coloane Village
0 meters 800
0 yards 800
P Rua da Felicidade
A variety of sweet scents waft
from the Rua da Felicidade, or
“Street of Happiness,” where
tasty and colorful Macanese
biscuits and cakes are baked
and sold. The area once teemed
with brothels, hence its
somewhat ironically bestowed
name. Today, it is a charming,
cobbled street lined with small
eateries, which makes it a good
place for a quick lunch stop.
A scale model of a Chinese junk, Maritime Museum
E Maritime Museum
Largo do Pagode da Barra 1. on which it stood in the Hong Kong’s surrounding
Tel (0853) 2859 5481. 17th century. The chapel to islands on a clear day. However,
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. São Tiago, Portugal’s patron it is not the ideal place for those
& ∑ museumaritimo.gov.mo saint of soldiers, remains to who don’t like heights. Glass-
Small-scale but interesting this day. The structure is more sided elevators rocket visitors
exhibits make this museum a rocky grotto than a smart skywards, and the restaurants
worth a visit for insights into hotel, which only adds to its and viewing galleries at the
the maritime past upon which charm. A natural spring runs top are also partially glass-
Macau’s wealth was built. through the lobby and the bottomed. For the truly
Displays include models of corridors are paved with adventurous, it is possible
Chinese junks, Portuguese flagstones. Its rooms are to don overalls and a harness,
ships and fishing boats, a mock traditionally decorated in and explore parts of the
Hakka village (see p296), a Portuguese style. The hotel tower’s exterior with the
dragon boat, and a small also runs a good restaurant, adventure sports company A.
aquarium. There is also a nice La Paloma. J. Hackett, which runs a
bar on the esplanade outside, number of activities,
open during museum hours. P Macau Tower including bungy trampo-
Largo da Torre de Macau. lining and a dizzying skywalk
P Pousada de São Tiago Tel (0853) 2893 3339. around the tower’s
Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de Open 10am–9pm Mon– The modern Macau outer rim at a height
São Tiago da Barra. Tel (0853) 2837 Fri, 9am–9pm Sat & Sun. Tower of over 764 ft (233 m).
8111. ∑ saotiago.com.mo ∑ macautower.com.mo
Well worth a visit for a drink on The Macau Tower, the P The Barra
the terrace, a night’s stay, or a peninsula’s most visible Located south of Largo de
meal at its restaurant, this tiny attraction, is 1,107 ft (338 m) Senado, Rua Central and Rua P.
but enchanting hotel was once high. The tower provides a great Antonio cut through the Barra
a fortress hewn from the rock view; in fact, visitors can see district, where Macau’s first
European residents settled.
A 40-minute walk through
narrow streets sided with old
colonial buildings will bring
you to the Neo-Classical olive
green front of Teatro Dom
Pedro V dating back to 1873.
Farther down, São Laurenço
is a plain but beautifully
proportioned church set high
off the street. Eventually you
reach tiny Largo do Lilau, a
pretty cobbled square with
a fountain and the restored
Mandarin’s House dating
from 1881. Another 545 yds
(500 m) along, the finely
collonaded Quartel dos
Mouros, once a Muslim
barracks, is now a post office.
Beyond lies the A-Ma Temple,
Avenida da Republica, near the Pousada de São Tiago Macau’s oldest.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p561 and pp580–81
MACAU 335
Macau’s Culture Club. For a clothes and home decor with as David’s Shirts or the
modern take on Chinese style, a luxurious, contemporary twist. renowned Sam’s Tailor, who
the upmarket G.O.D. (Goods of For Europeans who despair of has made elegant outfits for
Desire) chain offers smart inte- finding essentials in their size, an illustrious clientele. For end-
rior goods at reasonable prices. there is always the well-known of-line designer bargains, it’s
British Marks & Spencer chain best to head to the Citygate
of stores. Outlets mall in Tung Chung,
Clothes Party-goers may want home to a collection of brand-
Needless to say, the malls and to sift through the stylish, name outlets.
department stores are the best modern and retro street fashion Hong Kong’s markets
places for clothes. However, offerings at the independent are awash with fake designer
Joyce is also a good destination boutiques around Granville wear, whose quality and cut
for shoppers seeking a large Road and Kimberley Street in are often far inferior to the
range of smart labels under one Kowloon. Legendary for its real thing. If looking for
roof. Great value Gap-style tailors and shirt-makers, Hong authentic labels, it is best to
clothing can be found at one of Kong is still the place to come. avoid the street markets
the many Giordano stores in Take a chance with the stores altogether, and shop only at
town. Shanghai Tang in Central in Tsim Sha Tsui or go for the larger department stores
offers traditional Chinese established names such and boutiques.
DIRECTORY
Markets Pacific Place Mongkok David’s Shirts
88 Queensway. Map 3 D4. Computer Centre Shop 109B, The Galleria, 9
Jade Market Tel (0852) 2844 8988. 8a Nelson St, Mongkok. Queen’s Rd Central.
Kansu and Battery Sts,
Sogo q Mongkok. Map 2 C3.
Yau Ma Tei.
555 Hennessy Rd, Tel (0852) 2384 6823.
Map 1 B1. Tel (0852) 2524 2979.
Causeway Bay.
Open 10am – 3:30pm Star House
daily.
Tel (0852) 2833 8338. Giordano
3 Salisbury Rd. Map 1 A5.
q Causeway Bay. 27 Des Voeux Rd, Central.
Stanley Market
Stanley, Antiques and Chinese Arts and Map 2 C3.
zoo of orphaned native huge open-air market and there huge piles of buns offered,
animals, including muntjac are spectacular harbor fireworks some say, to the unhappy
deer and wild cats. In a similar that rival any display in the spirits of victims of the island’s
vein, but much more central world. The Birthday of Tin Hau, pirate past, and a procession
is the enchanting Edward the Goddess of the Sea, is more of “floating” children, carried
Youde Aviary in Hong Kong low key. Parades and lion aloft on themed floats. The
Park, which is built to resemble dances take place at the larger Dragon Boat Festival in June
a tropical rain forest and has temples, including the one at is marked with a great flourish,
elevated walkways. Joss House Bay in the New making it one of the region’s
Territories, and temples and most exciting events. Other
fishing boats are decorated all traditional festivals celebrated
Traditional Festivals over Hong Kong. The Cheung in Hong Kong include the
One of Hong Kong’s Chau Bun Festival in May is a Hungry Ghost Festival in
grandest annual celebrations fun week-long celebration on mid/late August and the Mid-
is the Chinese New Year (see Cheung Chau Island (see p330). Autumn Festival in late
pp48–9). Victoria Park becomes a It culminates in the eating of September/early October.
DIRECTORY
Hong Kong Nightclubs Hong Kong Sha Tin Racecourse
Tourism Board Convention & Tel (0852) 1817.
Beijing Club Exhibition Centre
(HKTB) 2–8 Wellington St, Central
∑ hkjc.com
1 Expo Drive, Wan
Hong Kong International Map 2 B3
Chai. Map 3 F3. The Venetian
Airport Arrivals Hall. Tel (0852) 2526 8298.
Tel (0852) 2582 8888. Estrada de Baia de N.
Kowloon: Star Ferry ∑ beijingclub.com.hk
∑ hkcec.com Senhora de Esperanca,
Concourse. Map 1 A5.
Dragon-i S/N. Taipa, Macau. Tel
Tel (0852) 2508 1234. Hong Kong Cultural
The Centrium, 60
∑ discoverhongkong. Centre (0853) 2882 8877.
Wyndham St. Map 2 B3.
com 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha ∑ ventianmacao.com
Tel (0852) 3110 1222.
Tsui. Map 1 B5.
∑ dragon-i.com.hk
Bars and Pubs Tel (0852) 2734 2009. Children’s
Volar
∑ lcsd.gov.hk/hkcc Entertainment
Le Boudoir B/F 44 D’Aguilar St,
Basement, 65 Central. Map 2 B3. Ko Shan Theatre Disneyland
Wyndham St, Central. Tel (0852) 2810 1510. 77 Ko Shan Road,
∑ volar.com.hk Penny’s Bay,
Tel (0852) 2530 3870. Hung Hom.
Tel (0852) 2740 9222. Lantau Island.
Drop Music and Arts ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/kst q Disneyland Resort.
Basement, On Lok Venues Tel (0852) 2203 2000.
Mansion, 39–43 Hollywood Macau Cultural
The Fringe Club ∑ hongkong
Rd, Central (entrance
Centre
2 Lower Albert Rd, Central. Av. Xian Xing Hai S/N disneyland.com
on Cochrane St). Map 2 C3.
Nape, Macau. Edward Youde Aviary
Map 3 B3. Tel (0852) 2521 7251.
Tel (0853) 2870 0699.
Tel (0852) 2543 8856. ∑ hkfringeclub.com Hong Kong Park, Cotton
∑ ccm.gov.mo
∑ drophk.com Hong Kong Academy Tree Drive, Central.
of the Performing The Wanch Map 2 C4.
Felix
Arts 54 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai. Tel (0852) 2521 5041.
Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury
1 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai. Map 3 F4.
Rd, Kowloon. Map 1 B4. ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/parks
Map 3 E3. Tel (0852) 2861 1621.
Tel (0852) 2696 6778. ∑ thewanch.hk Kadoorie Farm &
Tel (0852) 2584 8500.
The Globe ∑ hkapa.edu Botanic Garden
Garley Building, 45-53 Gambling Lam Kam Rd, New
Hong Kong Arts
Graham Street, Central. Centre The Canidrome Territories.
Map B3. Tel (0852) 2543 2 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai. Avenida General Castelo Tel (0852) 2483 7200.
1941. ∑ theglobe.com. Map 3 E3.Tel (0852) 2582 Branco, Macau. ∑ kfbg.org.hk
hk 0200.∑ hkac.org.hk Tel (0853) 2833 3399.
Ocean Park
SEVVA Hong Kong Coliseum Happy Valley 180 Wong Chuk
25/F, Prince’s Building, 9 Cheong Wan Rd, Hung Racecourse Hang Rd, Aberdeen.
Chater St, Central. Hom, Kowloon. Happy Valley,
Map 2 C3. £ Hung Hom MTR. Tel (0852) 3923 2323.
Hong Kong Island.
Tel (0852) 2537 1388. Tel (0852) 2355 7234. Tel (0852) 1817. ∑ oceanpark.com.hk
∑ sevva.hk ∑ lcsd.gov.hk/hkc ∑ hkjc.com
340 HONG KONG STREET FINDER
TH
Place of interest
NOR
RD
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Other important building
C
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CR N
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CROSS HARB
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Tourist information
HA
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OUR TU
CON
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CENTR T RD
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Victoria Harbour Temple
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HA
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E X PO DR I V E E AST
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P LAC URGH
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7556m
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Mianning
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Xichang
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5596m
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The Miao village of Xijiang nestled into a terraced valley near Shaxi Yongren
Kaili, Guizhou Eryuan g
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Chuxiong Kunming
Tengchong
YUNNAN
Getting Around Fengqing
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Expressway
Main road
Minor road
Main railroad
Other railroad
International border
Provincial border
Summit
Lanzhou
Zoigê
Dai women selling their produce at a market in Jinghong, Xishuangbanna
Songpan
Pingwu Guangyuan Xi’an
Wanyuan
Jiangyou Bazhong
Maoxian
Mianyang
Nanbu Dazhou Fengjie
Guanxian Deyang
Nanchong Wanzhou Yangzi
Chengdu
Liangping
Suining
Ya ’an Hechuan Wuhan
CHONGQING
Leshan Neijiang SHI Qianjiang SICHUAN &
Emei Shan Chongqing CHONGQING
3099m Zigong
Luzhou Qijiang Youyang
Yibin an
Sh Xiushan
Meigu Chishui ou
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D GUIZHOU
Junlian Fenggang & GUANGXI
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YUNNAN
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Jinping
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Anshun Longsheng Quanzhou
Qinglong Sanjiang
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Guangnan Huangyao
A PORTRAIT OF THE
SOUTHWEST
The southwest’s stunning landscapes, from the impossibly steep limestone
hillocks along the Li River, to the deep gorges cut by the upper reaches of
the Yangzi, make it one of China’s most picturesque regions. The area’s
ethnic diversity, evident in the traditional culture and lifestyles of its
numerous minority communities, also adds to its attraction as an exotic
tourist destination.
The southwest’s isolation has meant that of the Ming and Qing eras, the area that
for much of its past it has forged its own is now Yunnan, Guizhou, and Guangxi was
path. The area roughly covered by today’s ruled as a colonized outpost, dominated
Yunnan has always had closer ties with its by tribal chieftains.
neighbors to the south and east than with During the 1800s, the dispossessed,
China’s traditional dynastic centers. During ground down by merciless warlords and
the period of the Warring States (475–221 extra imperial taxes, revolted in two major
BC), Zhuang Qiao, a Chu general, was uprisings: the Muslim Uprising of 1856
sent here to subdue the tribes, but after (also known as the Du Wenxiu Rebellion),
a long campaign he was impelled to stay, which lasted until 1873 and centered
establishing the Kingdom of Dian at what on Kunming, and the Taiping Rebellion
is now Kunming in around 300 BC. For (which lasted from 1850–64), begun
the next 500 years, the kingdom existed in Guangxi (see p428). Both uprisings
as a loose conglomerate of tribute-paying were brutally suppressed by the Qing
tribal chiefs. and colonizing forces, sending the region
In the 8th century, the Kingdom of into a downward spiral of provincial
Nanzhao emerged in Dali, extending obscurity and abject poverty. The Miao
its territory into Vietnam and Myanmar. minority revolted again in 1870. When
The dynasty grew wealthy on trade along the Communists marched through during
the southern Silk Route, until it was the Long March in 1934, they encountered
conquered by the Yuan Emperor Kublai a population ready for revolution and
Khan in the 13th century. Through much took on many recruits.
Fishing boats on the banks of peaceful Er Hai (Ear Lake) near Dali
INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 349
Magnolia (Magnolia
campbellii), with its showy
pink flowers, is native to the
Himalayas and China. It was
discovered by George Forrest,
a Scottish plant hunter, in 1904
but was not brought into
cultivation until 1924.
Poppy (Meconopsis
integrifolia) grows high in
the mountains of
southwest China at 8,850–
16,7306 ft (2,700–5,100 m),
its foliage protected by soft
silky hairs. First collected by
Wild rhododendrons grow in this region, a renowned botanist E. H.
center of diversity for many plants. Most of the Wilson, the poppy is used
modern hybrid garden forms originate from wild in traditonal medicine.
species introduced from southwest China.
Camellias, of which
Many slipper orchid there are many
species thrive in beautiful garden
the alpine meadows of species, are grown
the Sichuan mountains mainly for their lovely
above 7,800 ft (2,400 m) flowers. Also, more
and Cypripedium than 200 kinds of tea in
tibeticum is one China are based on
of the most Camellia sinensis.
attractive.
INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 351
Famous Plant-Hunters
The beginning of the 20th century saw a number of intrepid botanists and
explorers set out to discover and bring back new and exotic plants from
around the world. Among the most famous were George Forrest (1873–
1932), E. H. Wilson (1876–1930), Joseph Rock (1884–1962), and Frank
Kingdon Ward (1885–1958). Although only one of the early pioneers,
Kingdon Ward achieved renown exploring and collecting botanical
specimens in Yunnan province just before and after World War I, and
also later in Tibet. Among his most celebrated discoveries are several
rhododendron species. In the 1920s he brought back seeds of the beautiful
blue poppy Meconopsis betonicifolia, which inspired the title of the most Frank Kingdon Ward, explorer
famous of his many books: The Land of the Blue Poppy. and collector
352 THE SOUTHWEST
Sichuan
The cuisine of Sichuan has the
reputation of being richly fla-
vored and peppery hot but, in
fact, a lot of Sichuanese dishes
are not hot at all. After all, the
chili is a relatively recent import
from the Americas that was
not widely cultivated here until
“Towards the sky” Small dried
the 19th century. According to Sichuan peppercorns
chilies (very hot) chilies (hot)
Sichuanese chefs, chilies do (aromatic spicy)
not paralyze the tastebuds, but A selection of Sichuan spices
Yunnan
Yunnan’s tropical climate
means the province is a haven
for vegetable-lovers, with an
excellent variety of fresh
produce on offer. Several
products distinguish Yunnan
on the map of gastronomy –
firstly the highly prized pu’er
tea. Dried into bricks, this is
strong and black and often
taken as a medicine. Just as
famous is Yunnan ham, which
rivals the ham from Jinhua in
Zhejiang. Unusually for China, Stall selling zongzi, parcels of sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves
Yunnan is also known for its
milk products, with cheese eaten Guizhou and Guangxi On the Menu
in the area around Dali. Relatively poor provinces,
When the long rainy season Guizhou and Guangxi are Aromatic and Crispy Duck
ends, a profusion of mushrooms Quite different to Peking Duck,
known for their famine cuisine
this is marinated, steamed, and
fills the hills and forests of the especially among the
then deep-fried. A special version
minorities, but despite the – Tea Smoked Duck – is smoked
stories the average visitor will using tea, cypress, and camphor
be hard pressed to find bee wood chips.
grub stir-fries and the like. Twice-Cooked Pork Another
Fiery hotpots are a specialty traditional Sichuan dish that is
of Guizhou, including those extremely popular. The secret is
made with dog, but these that the pork is first boiled, then
can easily be avoided (see stir-fried till tender.
p405). The predominant flavors Steamed Beef in a Basket
are spicy and sour. The Spicy beef coated with ground
province’s most distinguished rice and steamed – served in the
product is Maotai. A strong bamboo steamer basket.
spirit distilled from sorghum Toban Fish A whole fish deep-
Vegetables on sale in a street market and other grains, it is drunk fried then braised with chili,
in Guizhou at formal occasions. garlic, ginger, scallions, soy, sugar,
Guangxi cuisine includes wine, chili bean paste (toban
region, sending the locals out Cantonese-style sweet and jiang), and vinegar.
to collect these delicacies. sour dishes along with more Ants Climbing Trees Minced
Finally, the tropical climate rustic Zhuang minority food. pork with rice vermicelli – the
means that all sorts of exotic Zongzi are also a favorite and minced pork forms the “ants” and
fruits grow here and many the pyramids of sticky rice can the vermicelli the “trees”.
turn up in the area’s dishes. be savory or sweet.
Ma Po Doufu: “pockmarked” Hot and Sour Soup: this dish, Fish-Fragrant Aubergine: “fish-
tofu – a classic dish that when made properly, derives its fragrant” sauces use the same
combines ground meat, tofu, pungency solely from the use of seasonings as traditional
and chilies in a spicy gravy. ground white pepper. fish cookery.
THE SOUTHWEST 355
SICHUAN &
CHONGQING SICHUAN
CHONGQING
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Historic Sites Mountains, Grottoes & Caves
1 Chongqing 7 Sanxingdui Museum 3 Baoding Shan pp362–3
2 Zigong 9 Dafo, Le Shan pp370–71 8 Emei Shan pp368–9
4 Chengdu w Dujiangyan q Qingcheng Shan
0 Huanglong Xi u Luding National Parks & Zoos
r Songpan Temples 5 Panda Breeding Center
o Kangding
6 Baoguang Si e Wanglang Nature Reserve
t Huanglong
y Jiuzhai Gou Tour p376
Zoige i Moxi Xiang and Hailuogou
Ya
Glacier
lo Jiuzhaigou
ng
Jia
Serxu ng
Aba
Pingwu Guangyuan
Sertar
Maniganggo Heishui Wanyuan
G5
31 D
7 a Qu Mianyang Fengjie
Luhuo Lixian Dazhou
Deyang 2
Nanchong G4
Dazhu Wanzhou
Qianning
Batang 318 Ya’an Jianyang G 50
Hechuan
Yajiang Neijiang Qianjiang
Hanyuan 5
G6
G9
Jiulong Youyang
3
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Mianning Yibin
Xiushan
Zhaojue
Xichang
G85
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gz
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Ya
Dechang Key
Zhaotong
G5
Expressway
Panzhihua Huili
National Highway
Dali Minor road
Railroad
Provincial border
Chuxiong 0 km 200
International border
0 miles 200
The colorful mineral pools of Huanglong, Sichuan For additional map symbols see back flap
356 THE SOUTHWEST
1 Chongqing
Believed to have been founded as the capital of the shadowy
State of Ba in 1000 BC, this port is situated on a peninsula at
the junction of the Yangzi and Jialing Rivers. Also known as
Shan Cheng (Mountain City), due to the hills covering the
peninsula, it is one of the Yangzi valley’s “three furnaces”
owing to its stifling summer humidity, made even worse by
pollution. The main reason to visit Chongqing, a lively, rapidly
modernizing city with few historic sights, is to catch a Yangzi
ferry downstream through the Three Gorges (see pp358–60). The Liberation Monument (Jiefangbei) in
downtown Chongqing
In 1997, Chongqing became the administrative center of the
new city-province of Chongqing Shi, which stretches 311 E Three Gorges Museum
miles (500 km) east to Hubei. 236 Renmin Lu. q Zengjiayan.
Open 9am–5pm daily. 8 9
Luohan Si This museum, also known as
7 Luohansi Jie. q Xiaoshenzi Chongqing Museum, houses a
Open 8am–6pm daily. & superb collection of Eastern
This Qing-style temple is famed Han tomb relics (AD 25–220)
for its hall crowded with luohan from sites around Sichuan.
(those freed from the cycle of Peculiar to the region are 20-in
rebirth). The Indian Buddhist (50-cm) long mausoleum bricks,
pantheon has just 18 luohan, illustrated with figures depicting
but the Chinese have added religious and secular themes. A
hundreds of their own, including recurrent image is that of the
View of the interior of the Three Buddhist figures, folk heroes, and dragon-bodied sun god, Rishen,
Gorges Museum even Daoists. The hall has 524 associated with Fuxi, legendary
life-size statues; some sit ancestor of the Chinese. The
P Chaotian Men serenely, while others have highlight is a frieze of soldiers
q Xiaoshenzi and a 10-min walk. grotesque faces. The most easily and chariots passing a nobleman
Chaotian Men (Gate Facing identifiable figure is Ji Gong, a being entertained. Upstairs is a
Heaven) is Chongqing’s wharf comic peasant hero near the exit. display of Ba-era boat coffins.
district right at the tip of the
peninsula, where cruise boats P Liberation Monument P Great Hall of the People
line the muddy banks, readying q Linjiangmen. 173 Renmin Lu. q Zengjiayan.
themselves for their journey Situated in the heart of down- Open 8:30am–5pm daily.
into eastern China. A viewing town Chongqing, the Liberation This 213-ft (65-m) high rotunda,
platform overlooking the river Monument is a plain-looking seating 4,200 people, was built in
junction was constructed in clock tower commemorating 1954 as a conference hall to
2000, and offers splendid views the Communists’ defeat of commemorate Chongqing’s
on a windy day, though often Kuomintang forces in 1949. important war-time role. Inspired
visibility is impaired by the heavy It is surrounded by a busy by Beijing’s Temple of Heaven
fogs caused by intense pollution. shopping district. (see pp102–3), it is now a part of
The extravagant Great Hall of the People, now part of the Renmin Hotel
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp581–82
CHONGQING 357
the Renmin Hotel and is used for Communist leader Zhou Enlai VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
concerts. Its striking exterior, with and his wife, Deng Yingchao.
three tiers of red-pillared eaves Chairman Mao briefly visited Practical Information
beneath a blue canopied roof, Hongyan Cun (Red Crag Village) 200 miles (330 km) SE of
stands out from the modern after Japan surrendered in 1945, Chengdu. * 9,700,000.
highrises that are encircling it. to attend the US-sponsored n 19/F, 177 Bayi Lu, near
talks with the Kuomintang Liberation Monument, (023)
E Stilwell Museum forces led by Chiang Kai-shek. 6382 1162.
63 Jialing Xin Lu, Liziba. q Fotugyan. The buildings now house a Transportation
Open 9am–5pm daily. & ^ collection of sparsely captioned k Jiangbei airport. £
This is the former home of wartime photographs. More @ Caiyuanba bus station,
General Stilwell (1883–1946), appealing is the hilly parkland CAAC (to airport). g Chaotian
who was based here between surrounding the site. Men docks.
1942 and 1944 as Commander
of the US forces and Chiang Kai- P Ciqi Kou
shek’s Chief of Staff. The 1930s 9 miles (14 km) W of Chongqing. Porcelain is no longer made
building has period furnishings, q Ciqikou here, but Ciqi Kou is now
with informative displays on Founded 1,700 years ago on the popular with modern and
“Vinegar Joe’s” (the General’s banks of Jialing Jiang, Ciqi Kou traditional painters.
nickname) career. Opposite this (Porcelain Port) was a famous
museum is the small Flying porcelain production center
Tigers museum, with maps and during the Ming era, and is
photographs of the Tomahawk something of a museum piece.
fighter planes of the American Its riverfront lanes, preserved in
volunteer pilots. their original flagstoned state,
are flanked by old timber,
P Hongyan Cun adobe, and split-stone buildings
52 Hongyan Cun. 6 miles (10 km) with carved stonework, latticed
W of Chongqing. q Xietaizi. windows, and gray-tiled roofs.
Open 8:30am–5pm daily. Teahouses are everywhere, and
This group of whitewashed there are about 100 to choose
buildings was the base of the from. A couple of traditional
Nationalist-Communist “United ones overlook the river and
Front” government during World occasionally host opera
War II. Among the prominent shows. Busy markets sell food Visitors at a colorful and bustling market
people based here were the and local arts and crafts. in Ciqi Kou
Jiangbei Airport
Chaotian
21 km (13 miles) Men
Zengjiayan Daxigou
BIN JIAN G LU
Jialing
NXI LU
N G SH A N S I L U
HO
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IN L U B E IQ U
S HA A
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XINH
Three Gorges LU
of the People NG
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Niujiaotuo Museum LIN
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Liberation
C HA
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. Shibao Zhai
This outstanding monastery (see
p360) sits on an island, with Lanruo
Dian (Orchid Palace) built into the
cliff above.
Wulingzhen
Key
CHONGQING
Provincial border
Zhongxian ZI
G
N
YA
Chongqing
Fengdu
Fuling
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chongqing to Yichang or Wuhan.
n 19/F, 177 Bayi Lu, Chongqing,
(023) 6382 1162 (Chongqing
CITS). & excursions extra.
∑ yzcruises.com
0 km 30
0 miles 30
Dan
cliffs of Longmen Xia and troupes
ing
of wild monkeys.
He
Guandukou
XIL
ING
XIA
HUBEI
Yichang
. Qutang Xia
The first and shortest of the stunning
Three Gorges, the once violent waters
of Qutang Gorge were described by
the Tang poet Li Bai as “a thousand Wuhan
seas poured into a single cup.”
Carvings of Dazu
Combining elements from Confucianism, Daoism, and
Indian Tantric Buddhism, the carvings at Baoding Shan,
Dazu are a unique example of the harmonious synthesis
of these philosophies and religions. Though most are
religious in theme, the carvings vary greatly in style.
A few are naturalistic depictions of daily life, but most of
them are monumental and even surreal, with fanged
guardian gods and serene Buddhas at the point of
enlightenment surrounded by cartoon-like details of
3 Wheel of Transmigration
Buddhist parables. The main colors used are reds, A giant, toothy demon holds a
blues, and greens. segmented disc depicting the
possible states of reincarnation, from
Buddha-hood down to animals
and ghosts.
p Buddhist Hell
Buddha and
u Filial Duty A Confucian theme of bodhisattvas gaze
honoring parents for the sacrifices down at drunken
they make for their children sinners, while
illustrates the flexible nature of animal-headed
Chinese belief at this predominantly demons mutilate
Buddhist site. others on Knife
Mountain and in
Knee-Chopping Hall.
E Sichuan Museum
251 Hanhua Nan Lu. @ 58 from
Renmin Pk. Tel (028) 6552 1555. Open
9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ scmuseum.cn
A trove of ethnographic and
cultural artifacts on three levels,
this museum’s lower floor is full
of animated Han dynasty pottery
models of musicians, court A striking moon gate at Wuhou Ci
Bus Station
2 Yong Ling Museum 6km (3.6 miles) Fu
Riv
3 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage er
R EN M IN
LU
SH
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5 km (3 miles)
UA
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5 Renmin Park
Y IH
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Museum NG IA DA
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7 Sichuan Museum
LU
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0 km Bridge J I A NG
1 Wuhou Ci ZHONG LU
A JIE Xinnanmen
I D
1 HO U C Jinjiang Hotel Bus Station
0 miles WU
Shuangliu Airport
16 km (10 miles)
7 Sanxingdui
Museum
Giant Pandas
The famously rare giant panda occurs only in China, and, due to its lack of close
genetic relatives, is considered a “living fossil.” The wild panda population of around
1,600 is increasing, though with perhaps only another 340 in zoos worldwide, they
remain seriously endangered. There is added concern following the 2008 Sichuan
earthquake, which seriously affected the panda population and habitat. Pandas feed
primarily on bamboo. They have developed large molars for grinding up the stalks,
but are not well adapted to digesting them and so spend almost all their waking hours
eating. Bamboo flowers and dies off simultaneously over huge areas, periodically
depriving giant pandas of their food source. In the past, they could travel to other
regions to find more bamboo to eat, but now their habitat has been carved up by
development. Some 49 reserves are dedicated to panda preservation in China,
including the Wanglang reserve in north Sichuan (see p375).
8 Emei Shan
Rising to 10,167 ft (3,099 m), Emei Shan has been
considered holy by both Daoists and Buddhists since
the Eastern Han dynasty. Many of the temples nestled
on the mountain’s lush slopes are dedicated to the
Bodhisattva of Universal Benevolence, Puxian, who is
said to have ascended the mountain during the 6th
century atop a six-tusked elephant. Emei Shan is also
a storehouse of botanic diversity, with over 3,200
plant species found on the mountain – 10 percent of
China’s total. Many can be seen in monastery gardens,
including the white-petaled handkerchief tree; the
ginkgo, long thought to be extinct in the wild; and the
straight-trunked nanmu, a favored wood for temple . The Summit
pillars. The most visible of Emei’s animals are the Emei’s three main peaks are the
crests of an undulating ridge, with
aggressive monkeys, who pester hikers for handouts – a sheer drop of over 3,000 ft (1,000
keep food packed away. m) on the front face.
Hikers
Hawkers hoist sedan chairs for those
who have had enough of walking.
To cut down some of the trekking,
take a bus from Baoguo to the cable
car leading to Wannian Si, or, easiest
of all, to the cable car going all the
way to the summit at Jieyin Dian.
Hong Chun
Ping
Baoguo Si
One of the most important temples
on Emei, Baoguo Si contains a
massive bronze bell. Cast during the
Ming dynasty, it is rung with a large Chunyang
swinging tree trunk and is said to be Dian
audible for 10 miles (16 km).
Leiyin Si
Fuhu Si
He
ei
Em
Baoguo
KEY
Emei Town
1 Xixiang Chi (Elephant Bathing
Pool) is at the spot where Puxian
is said to have stopped to wash
his elephant.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp581–2
SICHUAN & CHONGQING 369
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Wanfo Ding
10,167 ft Practical Information
96 miles (160 km) SW of Cheng-
du. n near Baoguo Si, (0833) 552
Qianfo Ding 0444. Open daily. &
9,990 ft
Transportation
£ to Emei town. @ from Cheng-
Jin Ding
10,095 ft du Xin Nan Men bus station or Le
Shan to Emei town or Baoguo;
Emei town to Baoguo (20 min).
Jin Ding Si
The terrace in front of this temple is a favorite
spot for watching the sunrise, cloud seas, Key
and other atmospheric phenomena.
Path
Road
Jieyin Dian
. Wannian Si
The oldest surviving building
on Emei dates to 1611 and
houses a famed golden
Xianfeng Si statue of Puxian.
0 km 3
0 miles 3
. Qingyin Ge
Reached over a pair of arched bridges,
the Pure Music Pavilion is set in lowland
forest at the junction of two streams. The
nearby temple is the most romantic
place to spend a night on Emei Shan.
For additional map symbols see back flap
370 THE SOUTHWEST
9 Dafo, Le Shan
The enormous 230-ft (71-m) high Dafo (Great Buddha)
is carved into the red sandstone face of Lingyun Hill
overlooking the treacherous confluence of the Min, Dadu,
and Qingyi Rivers below. In AD 713 a monk, Haitong, decided
to safeguard passing boats by creating a protective icon in
the cliffs – though he was also practical enough to realize Jiazhou Huayuan
that the resultant rubble would fill in the shoals. By the time This museum, located in a pretty
temple, gives a full account of
Dafo was completed, other temples had been built around Dafo’s history and construction,
it and on the adjacent Wuyou Hill. In 1996 the Buddha was with interesting models.
included by UNESCO on the list of World Heritage Sites.
KEY
. Buddha’s Feet
At his huge 26-ft (8-m) feet you can really
appreciate one of the world’s biggest Buddhas.
His other statistics are equally impressive: each
ear droops 23 ft (7 m), his shoulders span 92 ft
(28 m), while his nose measures 18 ft (5.6m).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp581–2
SICHUAN & CHONGQING 371
When Haitong’s idea was accepted, funds were raised Practical Information
by public subscription and regional government Le Shan, 96 miles (154 km) SW of
contributions from the salt revenue (see p361). The Chengdu. Tel (0833) 230 2296.
monk lived in a cave behind Dafo’s head and Open May–Sep: 7:30am–7:30pm;
when a local official threatened to blind Haitong Oct–Apr: 8am–6pm. & 8
unless he could take a cut of the funds, the
monk gouged his own eyes out to prove his Transportation
@ from Chengdu Xinnanmen
sincerity. However, the project was only
completed in AD 803 after his death, and after bus station to Le Shan, then bus 3
Wei Gao, the regional governor, donated his to Dafo. 4 from Le Shan to
own salary to finish off the legs and feet. Wuyou Si, then walk to Dafo.
. Haoshang Bridge
This elegant, part-
covered structure is
built in an “antique”
style and links the
Great Buddha with
outlying temples on Dafo or Great Buddha, best seen from a river boat,
the adjacent hills. hired from Le Shan
374 THE SOUTHWEST
Qingcheng Shan’s ornate front gateway, with sharply upturned eaves w Dujiangyan
0 Huanglong Xi Zhenjiang Si is mostly
closed to the public, but 37 miles (60 km) NW of Chengdu.
£ from Chengdu. @ from Chadianzi
does have a pleasant, relaxed
31 miles (50 km) SW of Chengdu. @ bus station, Chengdu. Tel (028) 8728
riverfront teahouse.
from Chengdu Xinnanmen bus station. 3890. Open 8am–6pm daily. & for
Irrigation Scheme Area.
q Qingcheng Shan
Consisting of just seven narrow
lanes on a quiet riverbank sur- The sprawling town of
rounded by fields, the delight- 43 miles (70 km) NW of Chengdu. £ Dujiangyan is primarily known
fully dated village of Huanglong from Chengdu. @ to Dujiangyan for the Dujiangyan Irrigation
Xi served as one of the sets in then taxi. Tel (028) 8728 8159. Open Scheme, built in 256 BC by the
8am–6pm daily. &
the martial-arts romance Sichuanese governor Li Bing. He
Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. organized the building of an
Most of its timber-framed, stone As its name “Green Wall Mountain” artificial island to tame and
buildings date from the Qing suggests, this renowned Daoist divide the flood-prone Min
dynasty. Of its three temples, retreat is beautifully forested. Its Jiang into two channels that
Gulong Si is the largest, with a two separate sections are dotted could be regulated and tapped
few slightly shabby halls and a with Daoist temples linked by to provide a steady flow for crop
low entrance guarded by two stone paths, ideal for rambling. irrigation. Li Bing’s project is still
stone lions, above which is a The front face is reached from fully functional and was made a
theater stage used during the main entrance in town, while UNESCO World Heritage Site in
temple fairs. At the other end of the wilder rear face, with steeper 2000, but it was affected by the
the village, Nanwu Chaoxi Si is a gradients and narrower paths, construction of Zipingpu Dam,
tiny nunnery with a painted lies 9 miles (15 km) farther west. 5 miles (9 km) north. During the
stone carving of the dragon Jianfu Gong, outside the 2008 Sichuan earthquake, the
spirit Nanwu in human form, entrance, is the best-preserved dam cracked causing extensive
with red hair and a mustache. shrine. The main temple on the damage to the town. Some
1 Zharu Temple
This small temple, its Saigon
interior adorned with Jiuzhai Gou
bright murals, is home
to a growing population
of Tibetan lamas.
3 Nuorilang Falls
Jiuzhai Gou’s most renowned
cataract is best seen in full flood in
late spring, when the water foams
wildly in multiple ribbons over its
stony outcrops.
4 Pearl-Beach Falls
Water tumbles down a calci-
2 Shuzheng Zhai fied slope, spraying pearl-like
A Tibetan stockaded village, drops on its rocky ridges.
replete with Buddhist shrines
and water-powered mills, sits 5 Primeval Forest
halfway along a string of deep An atmospheric coniferous
blue pools and reed beds. forest at the far end of the
reserve is far from crowds.
0 kilometers 4
0 miles 4
Key
Tour route
Other road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp581–2
SICHUAN & CHONGQING 377
The debris-laden Hailuo Gou Glacier descending the southeastern slopes of Gongga Shan
YUNNAN
Located along China’s southwest frontier, Yunnan offers an unmatched
diversity of landscapes, climate, and people. The Tibetan highland
frames its northwestern fringes; tropical rainforests and volcanic
plains lie to its south. In the center are plains and hills, crisscrossed
by some of Asia’s great rivers – the Yangzi, Salween, and Mekong.
The seat of the pastoral Dian Kingdom founded in the 3rd
century BC, Yunnan was for centuries an isolated frontier region that
resisted Han influences and upheld local identities. Even today, the province is
home to a third of China’s ethnic minorities and has much in common with neighboring
Myanmar, Laos, and Vietnam. The province’s capital, Kunming, is one of the more relaxed cities
in China; nearby are the astonishing rock formations of the Stone Forest (Shi Lin). Several
minority villages dot the tropical forests of Xishuangbanna, while in the north, Dali is home to
the indigenous Bai people. Farther north is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lijiang, capital
of the Naxi Kingdom, with cobbled streets and distinctive architecture. Tiger Leaping Gorge,
an impressive, steep-sided ravine, offers superb, accessible two-day hikes.
Kunming is well connected to the rest of China, but the bulk of the province has only
limited train services. Bus travel is necessary to access most of Yunnan.
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty, 0 km 100
g zi
ong
Daguan
an
Y
G8
21
Zhenxiong
4
Zhaotong
30
8
Jianchuan Panzhihua
Huize Anshun
Yongren Dongchuan
Eryuan Er Hai
G60
G85
Dayao Wuding
G5
Qujing
Baoshan Nanhua
326
Weishan G56
Chuxiong Shizong
0
32
Luxi Fengqing
Mile
4
Yuxi Guangnan
Yu
21
G80
a
nJ
Wanding 1
51
ian
Lincang 8 G80
G Kaiyuan
g
Pu'er Jinping
ko
National Highway
ng
214
Minor road
Railroad
21
VIETNAM
3
The striking limestone pillars of the Stone Forest For additional map symbols see back flap
380 THE SOUTHWEST
Yuantong Si
30 Yuantong Jie. Tel (0871) 6519 3762.
Open 9am–5:30pm daily. &
At the foot of Yuantong Hill lies
Yunnan’s largest Buddhist com-
plex, a popular pilgrimage spot.
Renovated and rebuilt many
times, it has an imposing Ming
gateway, while a bridge over the
central pond crosses through a
Qing-era pavilion. Enshrined here
is a 6-ft (3-m) golden statue of
Maitreya Buddha. Behind the
pavilion, the Ming-dynasty Great
Hall of the Buddha has two
wooden dragons on its main pil-
lars, referring to a legend that the
temple was built to pacify a Pavilions on the fish-filled waters of Cui Hu Gongyuan
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3
YUNNAN 381
6 Zhenqing Guan
BEI L
Cui Hu D
YUANTO O
Gongyuan NG JIE N
G
CUIHU
7 City Museum
QINGNIAN L
LU
BEIJING LU
LU
N
Western A
Bus Station U N
CUIH
10 km (6 miles) East Bus Station
WUCHENG LU 10 km (6 miles)
ZHENGY I L U
LU
D
RENMIN DONG
O
CHAN GCHUN
N
G
LU
FE
Kunming
N
JINBI LU Zhenqing T UO D
Guan ON
G L
iver
U
S H U L I N J IE
CHUNCHENG LU
gR
City
DONGSI JIE
lon
Museum LU
Pan
Xi Si Ta N
NA
Dong NG
BEIJING
Si Ta E
CH
AN
0 meters HU
800
LU
0 yards 800
} Lake Dian and the Goddess of Compassion. It is well temples, halls, and pavilions,
Western Hills known for its garden of camellias which formerly served as
@ from Kunming. Tel (0871) 6842 and magnolias, and excellent a summer palace for a
7475. Open 8:30am–5pm daily. views. A cable car runs directly 14th-century Mongolian prince.
Haigeng Park: & from here to the Dragon Gate Just half a mile away is the
The 25-mile (40-km) long Lake ticket office, but it is also possible Dragon Gate Grotto, a set of
Dian (Dian Chi), just south of to walk up. The path leads past chambers, steps, and tunnels
Kunming, is surrounded by fertile Sanqing Si, a complex of excavated from the mountain.
farmland. Plying the waters of The mammoth construction
the elongated lake are fanchuan, task, which involved swinging
traditional junks with bamboo from ropes and hacking at the
masts and square canvas sails, rock with chisels, was begun by
once used for fishing. Daguan the late 18th-century monk Wu
Pavilion on the north shore Laiqing, and took 70 years to
makes a pleasant spot for a complete. Worth exploring along
stroll, while a few miles south is the way are niches with several
Haigeng Park, with green fantastic statues, including those
willows and eucalyptuses, of Guanyin and the Gods of
offering good views of the lake. Study and Virtue. A cable car
The most rewarding way to runs from near Sanqing Si to the
see the lake is from the Western summit at Grand Dragon Gate,
Hills (Xi Shan), about 10 miles a balcony perched at 8,200 ft
(16 km) southwest of Kunming. A picturesque pavilion with a pond (2,500 m), from where there are
The undulating contours of the and garden, Taihua Si fine views over Lake Dian.
“Sleeping Beauty Hills” are said
to resemble a reclining woman
with tresses flowing into the lake. The Burma Road
The path leading to the summit For 1,500 years, the southern Silk Route ran through Yunnan, across
holds a treasury of temples. Burma, and into India, traversing thick jungle and bandit-ridden
Visitors can either climb up or mountains. In the 1930s, the Chinese government, driven west by
take a minibus. The first temple, a the invading Japanese, reopened
mile (2 km) from the entrance, is the route to use as a supply line
Huating Si. Designed originally as into China from Burma. The 684-
a country retreat for Gao Zhishen, mile (1,100-km) road was built by
who ruled Kunming in the 11th 300,000 laborers, with primitive
century, it has been rebuilt several tools, and connected Kunming
times. The attractive gardens, with the railhead at Lashio in
dotted with stupas and ponds, British Burma. After the beginning
of World War II, it became a
contain interesting figures,
strategic lifeline for the Allied
including the four fierce-looking
troops, bringing in food, arms,
Guardians of the Directions, the and medical supplies. Provisions
gilded, blue-haired Buddhas, and arrived by rail from Rangoon, and
a set of 500 arhat. were then trucked to China on
From Huating Si, a steep, this route. After the Japanese
winding road leads deep into occupied Lashio in 1942, another
the forest for 1 mile (2 km) to road, built under the command of
Taihua Si, established by Xuan US General Stilwell (see p357),
Jian, a wandering Chan (Zen) linked Ledo in India to the Burma The Burma Road in the 1930s, snaking
Buddhist monk in 1306, and Road at Bhamo. through the hills
dedicated to Guanyin, the
384 THE SOUTHWEST
The Sani
The area around Shi Lin is home to
the Sani, one of the many subgroups
of the Yi minority. Spread throughout
the southwest, the Yi have their own
written language, with six dialects,
and numerous tracts on medicine,
2 Ode to Plum Blossom history, and the genealogy of ruling
Many of the rocks are cut with families. Much of Yi society was
calligraphy, including one of feudal well into the 20th century,
Mao Zedong’s most loved and some groups still practice
poems, executed in his elegant shamanism. The Sani are known
flowing script. for their embroidery, widely
available at Shi Lin, and many
local Sani work at the forest as A Sani tour guide, posing
tour guides and dancers. at Shi Lin
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3
YUNNAN 385
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
60 miles (100 km) E of Kunming.
Tel (0871) 771 9006.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & =
8 _ Torch Festival (end of the
6th lunar month).
Transportation
£ from Kunming. @ from
Kunming’s East bus station.
4 . Jianfeng Chi
This ornamental pool is ringed by Sharp edge
jagged ridges. A narrow walkway runs or karren
from here across the top of the forest.
Lion
Pond
Entrance
Key
Path
Road
Shop 0 meters 500
The Dai
In China, the Dai people live in the lush lands of Xishuangbanna. Once spread as far
north as the Yangzi Valley, the Dai were driven south during the 13th century by Mongol
expansion, and are now found throughout Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, and Vietnam.
The Dai in all of these countries share a similar culture, following Theravada Buddhism
rather than Mahayana, the Buddhist school practiced in much of the rest of China, and
speaking their own language with its own script. Known as skillful farmers, the Dai
have always flourished in fertile river basins, growing rice, sugar cane, rubber trees, and
bananas. Dai cuisine is well worth trying, with sweet flavors and unusual ingredients not
found elsewhere in China. Rice is steamed inside bamboo or pineapple, and exotic
specialties include ant eggs and fried moss.
Dai women
traditionally wear a
sarong or long skirt, a
bodice, and a jacket.
Hair is tied up, fixed
with a comb, and
often ornamented
with flowers. Gold-
Traditional Dai homes are made of bamboo capped teeth are
and raised on stilts, with the livestock penned considered attractive
underneath and generations of the same and married women
family living above. The well outside will likely wear silver bands on
have a shrine over it, water being sacred to their wrists.
Dai culture.
Xishuangbanna, feels a part of Southeast Asia. The region Y Wangtianshu Aerial Walkway
is home to China’s last snippets of primeval rain forest, as 19 miles (30 km) N of Mengla. Tel (0691)
817 5911. Open 8:30am–6pm daily. &
well as a huge diversity of flora and fauna, including a third ∑ ynskytree.com
of China’s bird species. A third of the population is Dai
(see p389); another third is made up of the numerous other
minorities. Most of the population lives in small villages
and the area’s appeal lies in the opportunity to hop West to Myanmar
between towns, explore the countryside by bike, and Western Xishuangbanna is less
trek through the jungle. developed than the east, with
rougher roads and sketchier
transportation. The many
as bamboo and ancient cycad fascinating villages inhabited
groves. If stopping over, there is entirely by minorities, however,
an excellent resort nearby. make the rigors of travel
Leaving the gardens behind, worthwhile.
the road to Mengla travels Sprawling Menghai is
through a tract of thick tropical unremarkable, but useful as a
jungle, the largest of base for exploring villages and
Xishuangbanna’s five wildlife the countryside by bike. It’s
reserves, which gives way to renowned for its pu’er tea and
rubber plantations. Mengla hosts a lively daily market.
itself is a rather drab and The monastery at Jingzhen is
unattractive town. known for its busu, an octagonal
A short taxi ride north of pavilion for delivering sermons.
Mengla, the Wangtianshu The main temple has beautiful
Aerial Walkway, a chain of decorative wall paintings. A bit
slender bridges 130 feet (40 m) farther on at Mengzhe, the
Pillar-like palm trees at Menglun’s up in the tree canopy, allows for hilltop Manlei Si is a bizarre-
Botanic Gardens unrivaled views of the jungle looking, frilly octagon built in
below. It’s another 9 miles (15 the 18th century, which holds
km) to the Yao minority village an important collection of sutras
East to Laos of Yaoqu. There’s a hostel, and written on palm fiber. Xiding, an
This route travels through culti- from here it is possible to trek attractive Aini village, holds a
vated flat lands and highland into remote regions – you are large Thursday market.
forest to the Laotian border, advised to hire a guide. Gelanghe is dominated by
which you can cross, provided Shangyong is the last village the Aini, whose women wear
you have the required visa. before the Laos border elaborate silver headdresses. A
The small settlement of crossing at Mohan and though sub-group, the Ake, who wear
Manting, a few miles east not really worthy of a trip in their long hair in braids, live in a
of Ganlanba (see p388) is full of itself, it’s interesting as a center settlement just north of town
traditional wooden Dai houses. for Xishuangbanna’s Miao on the way to the lake.
The town’s Fo Si and Dadu Ta population (see pp412–13). Heading south towards the
are excellent reconstructions of
12th-century temples destroyed
in the Cultural Revolution.
About 25 miles (40 km) to
the east lies Menglun, a dusty
couple of streets beside the
Luosuo Jiang. The superb
Botanic Gardens, across a
suspension bridge on the
opposite bank, were set up to
research medicinal uses of local
plants. With over 3,000 different
species, there’s plenty to see,
even for the not-so-botanically
minded, including the celebrated
Dragons’ Blood Trees whose sap
is used to heal wounds, as well Life of the Buddha wall paintings, Jingzhen monastic complex
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3
YUNNAN 391
0 km 30
0 miles 30
Sanchahe
N a tu re
M
R e se rv e
ek
o ng
Jinghong os
Lu
Menghai Gasa
ang
Manting
Ji a
Manguanghan
Mengla
Manpo
M YA N M A R
Key
East to Laos
West to Myanmar LAOS
Shangyong
Damenglong to Bulang Shan
International border
392 THE SOUTHWEST
San Ta
1 mile (2 km) NW of Dali. Tel (0872) 266
6346. Open 7am–6:30pm daily. &
The distinctive San Ta (Three
Pagodas) that symbolize Dali
stand within the monastery
of Chongwen Si, which was
destroyed during the Qing
Looking north over the city’s rooftops from Nancheng Men dynasty and rebuilt in 2005.
A 20-minute walk or short bus
Exploring Dali Dali Museum, once signaled the ride north of town, the pagodas
Dali’s old town center, just 1½ close of the city gates each are best visited early. The
miles (4 km) across, can be evening. Farther north along 16-tiered, square-based
explored in a single morning. It Fuxing Lu, the square outside Qianxun Ta is the tallest of the
takes about half an hour to walk the library is a popular venue for three at 230 ft (70 m), and is also
from the South Gate to the a game of cards or dominoes. the oldest, dating to around
North Gate across town. There is Still farther is the quiet Yu’er AD 800. Each tier is embellished
plenty to interest visitors, from Park, full of fruit trees and with fine marble figures.
small souvenir shops to tea- ponds, while tucked away in Buddhist relics including sutras
houses and traditional masseurs. the streets to its north is (scriptures), copper mirrors, and
Crowds of shoppers and farmers Dali’s Catholic church, with gold ornaments were found
also arrive here for the daily extravagant flying eaves. during a renovation in 1979,
vegetable market on Renmin Lu.
The best vantage point is at the
top of Nancheng Men (South
Gate), from where there are
views to Er Hai and Cang Shan.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
210 miles (350 km) W of
Kunming. * 500,000. n 49
Cangshan Lu, (0872) 219 5635.
_ Spring Fair (15th day of the
3rd lunar month – April or May).
Transportation
~ Xiaguan airport, 18 miles
(30 km) from Dali. £ to Xiaguan,
then 30 mins by bus to Dali. @
Caicun Haidong
San Ta
C
a
Si Dao
Xiadui
g
Yinsuo
Zhonghe Dao
Guanyin Tang
Feng
S
h
Xi Ma Tan
a
Gantong Xiaguan
Airport
n
Si
Foding Er Hai Park
Key Feng
Xiaguan
(Dali New City) Kunming
Hiking trail
Cable car A bustling market at one of the many towns
Baoshan
Temple around Dali
Lincang
394 THE SOUTHWEST
P Heshun
Tel (0875) 515 8998. Open 24 hr
daily. &
} Dakong and Heikong Shan
Open daily. &
} Rehai
Tel (0875) 586 8899. Open
A historic bridge in the Shaxi Valley
8:30am–6:30pm daily. &
Shaxi, Shibao Shan is a wooded Y Laifeng Shan Park
Open 8am–7pm daily. &
hillside that offers pleasant walks. 8 Ruili
Tucked among the pine trees is
a series of caves with carvings Environs: The sights out of
dating from the Nanzhao town are best visited on a tour, 115 miles (185 km) SW of
Kingdom (see opposite). which can be arranged by any Tengchong. ~ from Kunming. @
large hotel in Tengchong.
Heshun, 2 miles (4 km) west of Ruili, on the Myanmar border, is
7 Tengchong town, was founded in the Ming in every way a frontier town –
dynasty and is still as pretty as slightly exotic, with a touch of
a postcard despite its growing the illicit. Although much
150 miles (250 km) W of Dali.
popularity with visitors. Funds Burmese heroin passes through
~@
from thousands of former here, and gambling and
A thriving settlement during residents now living abroad prostitution are rife, the town
the Han era, Tengchong have kept the traditional should not necessarily be
prospered from the southern courtyard houses, ornate avoided as the presence of
Silk Road trade. Today a remote pavilions, and gardens in an Burmese traders and Dai and
backwater, it has preserved excellent state of repair. One Jingpo minorities makes it one
more of its traditional wooden of the finest buildings is the of the most intriguing places in
architecture than nearby wooden library, which was southwest China. An interesting
Baoshan. Set amid jungle, built in 1928. jade and gem market lies in the
volcanoes, and hot springs, As a result of its fragile fault- north of town, parallel to
Tengchong is also a major seis- lines, the entire region is dotted Nanmao Jie. The town really
mic zone, and has experienced with volcanoes, dry lava beds, comes to life at night, when
70 earthquakes since records geysers, and hot springs. The gambling and food stalls are set
began in the 16th century. most impressive of the 100-odd up in the back streets.
Tengchong’s destructive small volcanoes lie 12 miles Numerous hotels advertise
earthquakes have left the town (20 km) north of town. Dakong tours into Myanmar, often to
bereft of historic buildings, Shan is 820-ft (250-m) high, and watch transvestite shows, but
although a lone gate tower beside it is the smaller Heikong the frontier is closed to all
survives at the eastern end of Shan, only 262 ft (80 m) high, foreign visitors except those
Fengshan Lu. Along western but over 328 ft (100 m) deep. being met by Burmese officials
Guanghua Lu is the main Just 7 miles (12 km) southwest for a pre-arranged tour.
market, held every morning.
Tengchong’s most renowned
product – Burmese jade – is
traded in a large market at the
northern edge of town.
Burmese traders, distinctive in
their sarongs and sandals, can
be seen around town. Be
cautious of their goods unless
you are an expert. Just west of
town, Laifeng Shan Park is a
pine forest criss-crossed with
paths. Near the top of the hill,
Laifeng Monastery is now a
museum and holds exhibits
on local history. Lush Tengchong countryside, with hills in the background
396 THE SOUTHWEST
9 Street-by-Street: Lijiang
Set in a picturesque valley with a stunning mountain
backdrop, Lijiang’s Old Town, Dayan, is a labyrinth of cobbled
alleys lined with wooden houses, cafés, and the workshops of
traditional craftsmen. Home to the Naxi people, Dayan is one
of the most pleasant urban scenes in China. Lijiang came to
international attention in 1996 when an earthquake killed
over 300 people and devastated the city. Money poured into
Dayan’s relatively sensitive reconstruction, and numerous A typical narrow street in the center of
hotels as well as an airport were built. Lijiang has been a the Old Town
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.
Heilong Tan
Gongyuan
D
O
N
G
D
A
JI
E
YU
Water Wheels
H
E
Nightly
XI
performances of
NH
Academy.
JI
E
Kegong Fang
This distinctive tower is the center
of celebrations during the Sanduo
Festival, which honors the Naxi’s
protector deity, Sanduo.
Joseph Rock
An eccentric Austrian botanist, Joseph Rock lived in Lijiang between
1922 and 1949. He gathered over 80,000 plant specimens, pioneered
the use of photography in the field,
and wrote reports for National
Geographic. He was a defender of
Naxi culture and compiled the first
dictionary of the language. His
expedition entourage was huge, Key
and included cooks, hundreds of
mercenaries, and servants to carry Suggested route
such dubious necessities as his
gramophone, gold dinner service,
and collapsible bathtub.
0 meters 100
Joseph Rock (right) with the
0 yards 100
Prince of Choni, 1925
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and p583
LIJIANG 397
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
315 miles (525 km) NW of
Kunming. * 1,210,000. _
Bangbang Festival (15th day of
1st lunar month); Sanduo Festival
(8th day of 2nd lunar month. n
Lijiang Tourism, Xianggelila
Dadao, Lifang Plaza, (0888) 512
3432. & to Dayan.
Transportation
~ Lijiang Sanyi airport. @ £
View of the rooftops of Dayan from Wangu Lou
. Mishi Xiang
With a canal bubbling beside it, this is one of
Dayan’s most charming streets. Locals stop for
a drink from the well here, outside the Blue
Page Vegetarian restaurant.
GU
AN
GY
I J
IE
. Sifang Jie
Though it’s always busy with tourists, Market
Yu He runs south Square is still the heart of Lijiang. Naxi
from Heilong Tan gather here to play cards and chat. Local
(Black Dragon Pool), men who enjoy falconry often display their
Mu Fu north of Dayan. hawks. Morning is the best time to visit.
Wangu Lou
398 THE SOUTHWEST
The Naxi
The Naxi minority, numbering about 326,000, live in Sichuan and Yunnan, with
Lijiang as their spiritual capital. Descended from Tibetan nomads, the Naxi society
is matrilineal, though local rulers were always male. There are strong matriarchal
influences throughout Naxi society and in particular in the Naxi language. For example,
nouns become superlative when the word “female” is added and diminutive with the
addition of “male.” A “female stone,” therefore, is a boulder; a “male stone” a pebble. The
script, called Dongba, consists of about 1,400 pictograms and is the only hieroglyphic
writing system still in use. The Naxi religion, also called Dongba, is polytheistic and
mixes elements of Daoism and Tibetan Lamaism with older animist beliefs. The main Naxi
deity is Sanduo, a protector war god depicted in white, carrying a white spear and riding
a white horse. He is celebrated each year with the sacrifice of a goat and, of course,
much singing and dancing.
Naxi society’s
matriarchal nature
results in the women
controlling businesses,
but also doing most of
the work. Inheritance
passes through the
female line to the eldest
daughter. Naxi men are
expected to while away
their time as gardeners
or musicians.
The 24 Bends
When coming from
Qiaotou, the 24 Bends are
the toughest part of the
trail and consist of rather
more than 24 grueling
switchbacks. Some hire
horses at Nuoyu for this
part of the trip.
ng
Jia
h a
Ji ns
Yongsheng
Qiaotou
(Hutiaoxia Zhen)
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
50 miles (80 km) NW of Lijiang.
& for access to the gorge, and
ferry crossing.
Transportation
@ from Lijiang to either Daju or
Qiaotou; last bus from Daju to
Lijiang at 1:30pm.
Daju q Zhongdian
As a result, the area saw little development, and many indigenous GUANGXI
groups, especially the Miao and Dong, have retained their traditional
customs, including several well-known festivals. Guangxi is also home to
the Zhuang, China’s largest ethnic minority, and officially became the
Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in 1958.
Still among China’s least-developed regions, Guizhou and Guangxi do have a
few sights that are well-visited by tourists and easily accessible. The city of Guilin
in eastern Guangxi is famous for the Li River cruise, which passes through an astonishing
karst landscape and ends at the small town of Yangshuo. Kaili, a convenient base for
exploring Miao villages, is becoming more accessible and popular with tourists.
For determined travelers with time on their hands, long bus journeys are rewarded
with the beautiful Detian Falls surrounded by karst hills, stunning scenery near the
Vietnamese border, the wooden Dong villages around Zhaoxing, and the calm
waters of bird sanctuary Cao Hai.
Sights at a Glance
Waterfalls, Caves & Areas of
Villages, Towns & Cities u Guiping Natural Beauty
1 Guiyang i Nanning
3 Longgong Dong
2 Anshun p Pingxiang
4 Huangguoshu Falls
8 Miao Villages s Beihai
5 Zhijin Dong
9 Zunyi
6 Weining and Cao Hai
q Guilin
7 Xingyi and Maling Canyon
e Longsheng
0 Chishui
r Sanjiang Tongzi
6
w Yangshuo
32
Xishui Yinjiang
t Zhaoxing
Fenggang o Zuo Jiang
y Huangyao g
a Detian Falls
an
Ji Tongren
Jinsha u
Bijie W
Zhenyuan
G75
Dafang
0
G6
Liupanshui 0
Liping
G6
Duyun
Rongjiang
G75
G76
Panxian Quanzhou
Qinglong Dushan
Luodian
Anlong Rongshui Yongfu
G72
Nandan Fuchuan
Ho n
Luzhai Hezhou
Hechi
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G7
Liuzhou
i He
G7
0 km 100 8
G65
Bose a ng Wuzhou
Binyang
Key Pingguo Guigang
Jingxi
Rongxian
Expressway G80
Fusui
National Highway Yulin
Minor road Lingshan
G7
G15
5
Railroad Qinzhou
Fangcheng Maoming
Provincial border Hepu
G75
International border
Zhanjiang
Zhuang girl walking through rice fields For additional map symbols see back flap
404 THE SOUTHWEST
1 Guiyang
Founded during the Han dynasty, Guiyang remained a minor
provincial center until it became the capital of Guizhou in
the early 20th century. The city is situated in a valley along
the little Nanming River, protected from the unlucky northern
direction by high hills. Guiyang means “Precious Sun,” which
reflects the general Chinese opinion of the province’s
damp climate. An easy-going place, Guiyang is a steadily
modernizing city surrounded by parklands, with a couple
of historic relics dotted among its tower blocks. The Huaxi
District to its south includes rural parks, a few villages
Jiaxiu Lou and the arched Fuyu Qiao over
inhabited by the Bouyei minority (see p406), and a well-
Nanming River
preserved Ming-era town.
Fushui Nan Lu is another
temple, whose main attraction
is the excellent vegetarian res-
taurant out front, which uses
generous quantities of chilies
to spice up the tofu, vegetable,
and gluten dishes. Just off
Wenchang Bei Lu, Wenchang
Ge features an elegant three-
story tower with flared and
pointed eaves built between
1609 and 1669. It was originally
part of the east city wall.
E Provincial Museum
168 Beijing Lu. Tel (0851) 8682 2762.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Traditional temple buildings in Cuiwei Yuan The second floor of this dusty
building houses an interesting
P Jiaxiu Lou and Cuiwei Qianming Si, Jue Yuan collection of local finds, though
Yuan and Wenchang Ge there are few captions. The
2 Cuiwei Xian Nanming Lu. Tel (0851) City center, N of the river. pride of the collection are a 3-ft
8550 3811. Open 8am–8pm daily. Open daily. & (1-m) high Han-era bronze
The small Jiaxiu Lou pavilion A few examples of Guiyang’s horse and chariot, and some
was constructed in 1598 on a classic architecture survive glazed clay figurines from a
tortoise-shaped rock jutting out around the city center. The Ming tomb near Zunyi.
over Nanming River. It was built most interesting is Qianming Ethnological displays include
as an inspirational meeting place Si, located on Yangming Lu on silverware, batiks, and
for scholars studying for the the north bank of the river. Its embroideries from Guizhou’s
imperial civil service exams. The main point of interest is the many minorities. A shiny new
pavilion is now a teahouse street market outside, selling museum complex is under
decorated with antique poetry bonsai trees, pets, fishing gear, construction opposite Guiyang’s
scrolls. Its upper floor offers views and Cultural Revolution convention center, northeast of
of Guiyang’s modern downtown memorabilia. Jue Yuan on the city center.
district. The 95-ft (29-m) high,
three-storied wooden tower is
connected to the riverbank by
the arched Fuyu Qiao (Floating
Jade Bridge). On the bridge’s
southern side, adjacent to Jiaxiu
Lou, Cuiwei Yuan garden was
originally part of a temple
dedicated to Guanyin,the
Buddhist Goddess of
Compassion. Founded around
1500, all that remains today are
late Qing-era buildings. Vermilion-red joss sticks and trinkets on sale outside Qianming Si
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and p583
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 405
NG
IJI
BAOSHAN BEI L U
Museum
5 Wenchang Ge
6 Provincial Museum
RUIJIN
LU
Z AO S H A N
QIANLING XI
FUS H U I
LU
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LU
YA N
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LU LU
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FU S H U
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Cuiwei Yuan
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Pet Market Jiaxiu
0 meters 800 Lou
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0 yards 800 East Bus Station
LU
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JIE
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LU
Huaxi
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LU
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Train
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Station
SH
406 THE SOUTHWEST
Anshun Batik
Several ethnic groups across southwestern China have been
traditionally involved in creating batik. For almost 1,000 years, the
Bouyei around Anshun have been using batik as a background
to embroidery on clothing, and since the establishment of a
factory in Anshun in the 1950s, have come to monopolize the
indigenous textile market. The designs, which were originally
of abstract plants and animals, are drawn with wax on cloth.
The cloth is then dyed in indigo before being boiled to remove
all traces of the wax, leaving the pattern in white on a blue
background. The earlier monochromatic batiks have now given
way to multi-colored, mass-produced designs, which include
stylized representations of zodiac animals, scenes from Bouyei
A strikingly designed, contemporary batik, filled legends, and mythical creatures. Today, Anshun’s batik is in great
out in red and orange demand across China.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and p583
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 407
5 Zhijin Dong
7 Xingyi and
Maling Canyon
Chinese Cranes
The lakes and marshes of China are vital to the survival of eight of the world’s 15 species
of crane, many of which are highly endangered. Most breed in northern China, in
particular at Zhalong Nature Reserve in Heilongjiang province. All are migratory, but
several species – including the tropical sarus and China’s sole endemic variety, the black-
necked crane – occur only in the central and southwestern parts of the country. Aside
from being naturally elegant birds, cranes have spectacular mating “dances,” where they
energetically leap and flap around to attract their lifelong partners. As a result of this
display, the crane is a Chinese symbol of fidelity and longevity. The Daoist God of
Longevity, Shou Lao, is often depicted riding a crane.
Courting cranes pair for life. They cement the bond with
elaborate courtship displays, during which the couple
loop necks, toss their heads back, throw around twigs
and pebbles, and leap high into the air,
parachuting down with wings spread. The crane is a symbol of good fortune,
wisdom, and the quest for spiritual
improvement, as well as fidelity –
so it is often seen on official and
imperial clothing.
embroidery once made and worn by unmarried girls. These Miao Communities of Asia
are displayed at the many Miao social festivals, where mass
Miao population
dancing is featured.
Embroidery is an
This jacket is typical
integral Miao skill,
of dark geometric
and girls learn it
Gejia pieces. It is heavily
from an early age.
embroidered and
They create elaborate
incorporates batik work
panels for sewing on to
of abstract buffalo and
their clothes. Although
plant motifs.
the custom is dying,
it was believed,
the finer
the design,
the better a
girl’s marriage
prospects.
Elaborate silverwork,
including Miao silverwork ranges
headpieces, breast- from simple earrings to
plates, and necklaces, twisted, weighty necklace
are collected by
families of Hei Miao
chains and fantastic
girls from the time headpieces with bells,
they are born. horns, and animal
figurines.
Traditional long
pleated skirt
E Minorities Museum
5 Guangchang Lu. Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun.
Western Route
Frequent buses ply the route
from Kaili to Shibing; change
here for connections to
Zhenyuan. There are some basic
accommodations in Chong’an
and hotels in Shibing.
Pleasantly rural Matang is
home to the majority of Gejia,
a Miao sub-group. The road
passes close by, but you’ll
need to hire a taxi from Kaili A battery of old stone water-powered mills, Chong’an
if you don’t want to walk the
last 2 miles (3 km). About to experience crowds bargaining features the ruins of a Ming-
6 miles (10 km) west of for everything from ducklings dynasty temple and a handful
Matang, Xianglu Shan to home-made spirits. Right of paved hiking trails.
(4,265 feet/1,300 m) on the roadside, Feiyun
is where Zhang Xiumei, Dong is a curious Zhenyuan
one of the leaders of Daoist shrine founded 75 miles (125 km) NE of Kaili. £
the Miao Rebellion, in 1443, whose few n 93 Xinglong Jie, (0855) 572 5366..
was defeated by moss-covered halls An old garrison town, Zhenyuan
government (one contains a is squeezed by flanking cliffs into
troops in 1872. museum of Miao two long streets either side of
An annual Hill- artifacts) are built Wuyang He. In the old town on
Climbing Festival is held right into a natural the north bank, Qing-dynasty
here in his honor. arrangement of grottoes buildings with wavy eaves and
The riverside town and vegetation. From ornate stonework have been
of Chong’an uses its Shibing, a modern place on restored. East of the old town, a
old core of wooden Miao woman
the south bank of Wuyang stone Ming-dynasty bridge leads
shops for a lively He, it is possible to hike to Qinglong Dong. The temple
with baby
market, somewhere up Yuntai Shan, which complex is built into the over-
hanging cliffs, where water
seeps onto shrines dedicated
Yuntai Shan to Buddhist, Daoist, and
Zhenyuan
Confucian deities. It’s also
ng H e
Wu ya Shibing possible to cruise a stretch of
Feiyun
the Wuyang He west of
e
near Taijiang
sh
Chong'an
ng
i
Q Feb/Mar Lusheng Festivals
across region
Taijiang
Apr/May Sisters’ Meal, Taijiang
Matang
& Shidong
Xianglu Fanpai Jun/Jul Dragon-boat Races
Shan
Kaili
at many riverside villages
and towns
Xijiang Jul/Aug Hill-Climbing Festival
Langde at Xianglu Shan
Aug/Sep New Rice Tasting
Lei Festival in villages around Kaili
Shan Leigong Shan
and Lei Shan; Lusheng Festival,
Key
Chong’an
Langde and Xijiang Oct/Nov Lusheng Festival and
Eastern route horse races, Yongxi, near
Western route Zhenyuan
Railroad 0 km 20 Dec Miao New Year, Xijiang
and villages around Kaili
Temple 0 miles 20
416 THE SOUTHWEST
0 Chishui
Steps leading up to the Monument to the Red Army Martyrs, Zunyi
150 miles (250 km) NW of Zunyi. @
9 Zunyi leader and severed ties with the
Russians, a vital step that helped On the banks of Chishui He
the CCP defeat the Nationalists in northwestern Guizhou on
150 km N of Guiyang. ~ £ @
and eventually emerge as China’s the Sichuan border, Chishui is
The largest city in northern ruling party. Zunyi Conference encircled by sandstone hills.
Guizhou, Zunyi is encircled by a Museum, contains the original The subtropical forests covering
gray mass of cement factories gray brick conference hall (now these hills are divided into nature
and bustling transportation closed to the public) and a reserves, reached by minibus
terminals that conceal a quiet collection of old photographs. from town. The finest is Shizhang
and clean older Further on, revolutionary Dong, 23 miles (37 km) south
quarter, southwest sites line the streets of town, with a 236-ft (72-m)
of Fenghuang behind the museum, waterfall. Some 10 miles (16 km)
Shan. The city including the southwest, Sidong Gou is a
holds a special former Red Army valley whose red-silted river gives
place in the history Political Chishui its name, “Red Water.”
of the Chinese Department – It runs over four waterfalls and
Communist Party housed in a French through a forest thick with
(CCP). In January Carved detail, Monument to the Catholic church – bamboo. Locals harvest the edible
1935, Zunyi was Red Army Martyrs on Yangliu Jie, bamboo shoots, and the mature
invaded by the Red and the Zunyi stems are split and woven into
Army during the Long March Folklore Museum on Hongjun matting. The region is also
(see p262). Having suffered major Jie. Across the river, in famous for its baijiu, an alcoholic
defeats at the hands of the Fenghuang Shan Park, the drink produced in Maotai,
Nationalists, Communist leaders Monument to the Red Army 50 miles (80 km) southeast
including Mao, Zhou Enlai, and Martyrs commemorates the in Xishui county (see p571).
Otto Braun, the Soviet advisor, heroes of the Long March.
convened the Zunyi Conference. } Nature Reserves
During the three-day meeting, P Conference Museum @ minibus from Chishui.
Mao emerged as the party 80 Ziyin Lu. Open 9am–5pm daily. Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Bamboo
A fast-growing, long-lived type of grass found throughout central and southern China,
bamboo is put to a huge array of uses. The culms (stems) are turned into pipes, hats,
furniture, mats, and cooking utensils, while the shoots of certain varieties are cooked
and eaten. The body of the plant is a rhizome (a horizontal, underground stem) that,
according to type, clumps or runs, putting out regularly spaced shoots that can grow up
to 2 ft (60 cm) per day until they reach full height. Plants might flower only every few
decades, or even just once per century, after which they die back. Bamboo has become
part of the religion, philosophy, and culture of the Chinese: it represents Confucian
values of devotion and righteousness; the segments on its straight stem symbolize the
steps along the straight path to enlightenment; and its strength, grace, and longevity
have made it the subject of a great many poems and paintings.
Karst
Huge areas of China’s southwest comprise visually spectacular
landscapes featuring karst – weathered limestone formations.
In China, limestone has been created from fossilized prehistoric
sea-floor sediments, brought to the surface by geological
upheavals. The exposed alkaline limestone is then eroded by
the natural acidity of rainwater. Above ground, this creates any-
thing from closely packed “stone forests,” poking a few meters
skyward, to the huge conical hills covering half of Guizhou, Stone forests, such as Shi Lin
and the tall, elegant pinnacles around Guilin. Underground, outside Kunming (see pp384–5),
percolating water and subterranean rivers carve out long, are karst formations created by
the retreating waters of ancient
interlinked caverns, hung with oddly shaped rock formations. seas, and wind and rain erosion.
Karst Formation
Southwest China’s thick and
fractured pure limestone has
led to a dramatically eroded
landscape. The warm, wet
climate speeds up the
weathering of limestone
by acid rainwater and
chemicals in rotting plants.
Karst
Landscape
This cut-away artwork
2 Peaks develop from the land
shows an idealized
left after erosion by the streams.
The cave system gets larger as karst landscape, with all
fast-moving subsurface streams the features shown together. Karst
bore through the limestone, and topographies usually have a thick
the water table drops. layer of cave-riddled limestone, and then,
depending on the area’s geology and the age of
the formation, a few of the features shown here.
The Li River
(see pp422–3)
cuts through an
3 Much of the limestone has impressive variety
eroded past the caves down to of karst hills. Cruises
a layer of shale. Limestone peaks start in Guilin with
remain, many fractured with fenglin, which
small, waterless caves. gradually give way
to dense fengcong.
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 419
A losing stream
runs along the surface Caves that open out into large halls
and then disappears filled with stunning limestone
underground, joining formations are found throughout
the subterranean karst areas. Minerals deposited by
drainage system. losing streams and water drainage
create the strange shapes.
Sinkhole caving in
to join cave system
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
235 miles (378 km) NE of
Nanning. * 800,000. n 11
Binjiang Lu, (0773) 288 6393.
Transportation
k Liangjiang International
Airport. £ Guilin Train Station.
@ Guilin bus station, CAAC
(buses to airport), Minibus station
(to Yangshuo).
1 Rong Hu
BE
2 Shan Hu
NG
3 Xiangbi Shan
HUANCHE
Fubo
4 Qixing Gongyuan City Shan
Walls
5 Jingjiang Prince’s Palace
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LU
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Guilin Train
Station
Minibuses to
Yangshuo
CAAC
Liangjiang Airport
Key to Symbols see back flap 28 km (17 miles) SHANGHAI LU
YANGSHUO
WUZHOU Li River Ferry Docks
422 THE SOUTHWEST
Li River Cruise
The cruise along the Li River (Li Jiang) from Guilin south to
Yangshuo passes through landscape that seems lifted straight
out of a Chinese scroll painting. The shallow river weaves
between sheer-sided, 980-ft (300-m) karst peaks, all
weathered into intriguing shapes and interspersed with the
villages and bamboo groves so typical of southern China’s
rural areas. People here still travel the river on low bamboo
rafts, often using trained cormorants to catch fish (see p424).
Cruises take about 6 hours and usually include a buffet lunch.
Foreign visitors sail in boats with English-speaking guides,
although this costs more.
Bamboo rafts, for navigating the river
during winter’s low waters
Zhu Jiang
Dock
GUILIN
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and p583
GUILIN 423
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Guilin to Yangshuo 52 miles
(85 km), 6 hrs. n 11 Binjiang Lu,
Guilin, (0773) 288 6393 (CITS for
booking). &
Transportation
@ to starting point and from
Yangshuo provided.
. Penholder Peak
Just past Yangdi and
facing Writing-Brush
Mountain, this sharp,
vertical outcrop does
indeed resemble a
traditional Chinese
penholder. This
section of hills is the
beginning of the
most spectacular
mountain ranges.
Caoping
. Scenery at Xingping
Xingping, an old, wooden town
and ferry port, marks the start of a
spectacular 12-mile (20-km) stretch
of scenery. Pick of the peaks are Five
Yangdi Fingers Hill and swirly patterned
Xingping
Snail Hill.
Key
Minor road
Built-up area
YANGSHUO
w Yangshuo
built in a simple, late Qing- the main road south of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
dynasty style, with wing-like town. Close by, Longtan
horsehead gables protecting its Village has several unrestored Practical Information
doorway. Located nearby, the old buildings, with white- 44 miles (70 km) S of Guilin.
Black Buddha, Assembled washed brick walls, wooden * 60,000. n 8th Fl, 362
Dragons, and New Water Caves doors, and tiled roofs Zhongshan Zhong Lu, Da
are a series of underground supporting intricate “flying Shijie. For rock climbing: visit
Insight Adventures, 53 Xianqian
caverns discovered in the eaves” drawn out into points.
Jie, (0773) 881 1033.
1990s. Lit up with colored
lights, these cool, damp caves Transportation
are far smaller than the P Fuli Village @ from Guilin. 8 tours and
other well-known caves 5 miles (8 km) E of Yangshuo. boat trips available.
in the region, and the @ or cycle.
temple and caves are 4(
becoming popular The pretty village of for livestock, seasonal fruit,
with tourists. Fuli is a quiet rural plastic buckets, wooden pipes,
center except when it all kinds of vegetables, and
Pomelos on sale hosts a busy produce bamboo fans – a famous local
} Yueliang Shan at a market market on dates ending product. To the north is
4 miles (7 km) S of Yangshuo. in 1, 4, or 7. One of the Donglang Shan, a narrow hill
@ or cycle. Open 7am–6:30pm best in the region, it is visited by often paired with Yangshuo’s
daily. & throngs of villagers who bargain Xilang Shan in local legends.
The distinctive crescent-
shaped arch that pierces
Yueliang Shan (Moon Hill) has
made it the most famous of
Yangshuo’s peaks. Stone steps,
steep in places, lead to the
base of the arch, a half-hour
climb through bamboo thickets
and bushes. The view of the
Li River valley from the far side
of the arch is magnificent,
with fields laid out below,
encircling the jagged karst
pinnacles. The best time to
visit is during the summer
rains, when the fields are
bright green. If traveling by
bicycle, visitors should take The pretty countryside surrounding Assembled Dragons Cave, Yangshuo
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426 THE SOUTHWEST
Dong Architecture
The Dong, who dwell in forested hill country where stone is of poor
quality, make efficient use of timber. Nails are avoided, and even the
largest structures are skillfully pegged together. As incomes rise in the
region, there’s been a resurgence of traditional building with villages
competing with one another to sponsor the construction of
bridges and towers. Drum towers are usually square-based,
with multiple octagonal eaves. Originally they served as
watchtowers and rallying places for the village, many with
adjoining theater stages for use during festivals. Elaborate,
covered wind-and-rain bridges are also places for villagers
to meet, and are believed to ward off inauspicious energy.
Traditional drum tower in one of Chengyang’s
pretty rural hamlets
Environs: The most accessible t Zhaoxing although they have been rebuilt
Dong villages lie 11 miles since, they are charmingly well-
(18 km) north of Sanjiang at worn and impressively intricate.
Chengyang, a group of hamlets 75 miles (120 km) NW of Sanjiang. The bridges and theaters are
on the far side of the Linxi @ from Sanjiang. embellished with mirror frag-
He, accessible by bus or taxi ments and detailed moldings.
from Sanjiang. Connecting One of the most attractive The Dong community here
Chengyang to the main road Dong villages, sprinkled with still makes and wears traditional
are over 100 bridges. One of the fish ponds and bisected by dark-blue clothing, which is
most exquisite is a fengyu qiao, a a stream, Zhaoxing sits in a hand-beaten with wooden
wind-and-rain bridge, dating wide, flat valley and is famed mallets until soft, and then
from 1916. The 256-ft (78-m) throughout China for its varnished with egg white to
long bridge, built from pegged impressive collection of ward off mosquitoes.
cedar – no nails are said to have traditional architecture (although Numerous muddy tracks lead
been used – took 12 years to there are a few modern through the surrounding rice
complete. The roof is especially buildings found on its outskirts). terraces. One trail leads 4 miles
elaborate, with five raised The town is divided into five (7 km) uphill to the small village
pavilions, each built in a sections, each inhabited by a of Tang’an, packed with
different regional style. These different clan, and each wooden buildings. Jitang,
beautifully built bridges not possessing its own drum tower, 2 miles (3 km) southwest of
only served a practical function, theater, and wind-and-rain Zhaoxing, is also worth the
but acted as shrines to river bridge. The original structures steep climb. It has some old
spirits as well. Most of the altars were destroyed during the drum towers that survived the
have now been moved to the Cultural Revolution, and vandalism of the early 1970s.
riverbank, as the incense is
considered a fire hazard.
Basic accommodations are
available for visitors interested
in exploring the ethnic villages
and surrounding countryside.
Each hamlet in Chengyang
houses a small drum tower,
while the surrounding fields
are irrigated by bamboo pipes
fed by huge, spindly water-
wheels, also made from
plaited bamboo.
The highland market town of
Dudong lies 2 hours by bus
north of Sanjiang, on a separate
road past numerous Dong
villages. Situated near the
Hunanese border, it provides
basic accommodations for
visitors. A cobbled walking track
leads uphill to Gaoding, a cluster
of six drum towers and 100-or-so
dark-roofed wooden houses. A cluster of Dong wooden houses, Zhaoxing
428 THE SOUTHWEST
y Huangyao
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p583
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 429
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p583
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 431
and the railhead for the crossing not possess the sheer force of plaster work, at least one
into Vietnam. Visitors require a Niagara, but is more gently former church, and several
valid visa to enter Vietnam at beautiful, falling in stages, and colonnaded shopfronts.
the border crossing, Youyi Guan surrounded by an emerald karst About 3 miles (5 km)
(Friendship Pass), another landscape of jagged hills and south of the center along
9 miles (15 km) away. The plowed fields. It is possible to Sichuan Lu is the Beihai
current border was demarcated swim in the broad pool beneath International Passenger Port,
as early as the Ming era, and a the falls, and to take a bamboo which also serves as a working
good stretch of the original 33-ft raft into the spray near its base. fishing port.
(10-m) stone wall still stands, Remember that a border runs Beihai’s other attraction,
along with a restored watch- through the center of the river – Yin Tan (Silver Beach), lies
tower and gateway under do not stray too far across. A 6 miles (10 km) south of town,
which visitors pass. The tower’s road running along the top of but it does not compare with
second floor houses a diorama the falls leads to a stone tablet the lovely beaches of Hainan.
of the area and offers views into from the 1950s that marks out Located about 20 miles
Vietnam. An early 20th-century the border. (32 km) offshore from Beihai,
European-style building on the volcanic Weizhou Island
Chinese side was built by the offers attractive beaches amid
French when they controlled
s Beihai groves of banana trees. It also
this region, known then as Indo- has a Gothic church built by
China. For those crossing into 135 miles (215 km) S of Nanning. ~ French churchmen in 1882.
Vietnam, the rail line for Hanoi £ @ g to Hainan Island.
resumes 3 miles (5 km) away on
the far side at Dong Dang. A tropical port city of about
400,000 people, Beihai is one
of the departure points for
a Detian Falls ferries to Hainan Island (see
pp310–11). Many of the city’s
125 miles (200 km) W of Nanning. @ residents are ethnic Chinese
via Daxin to Shuolong, then minibus from Vietnam, whose expulsion
from Shuolong to falls, 10 miles (16 from that country in the late
km). & 1970s sparked a brief attempt
by China to invade its neighbor.
A spectacular set of broad Established over 2,000 years
cataracts dividing China from ago, the city prospered during
Vietnam, Detian is the second the Han era, when it was a busy
largest transnational waterfall in port. The old Colonial Quarter,
the world, after Niagara Falls on on the northern seafront along
the US-Canada border. The two Zhuhai Lu, is a mile-long (1½-
attractions, however, have little km)stretch of narrow lanes Facade of an old colonial church on
else in common. Detian does and disintegrating 1920s Weizhou Island
THE
NORTHEAST
Mohe
(Xilinji)
Mongols, and Jurchen (Manchu), the latter ruling China for over uli
Yileh
250 years. Today, the region’s three provinces of Liaoning, Jilin,
and Heilongjiang form China’s industrial heartland, although the
many lakes, mountains, and rugged borderlands offer scenic
getaways. In Liaoning, Shenyang’s palaces are testament to its
great Manchu past, while Dalian is a fast-moving city with
architectural marvels. The city of Jilin, once the capital of
Manchukuo (1933–45), the puppet state installed by the
Japanese, has stunning winter landscapes. Changchun, the Nenjiang
capital of Jilin province, has a thriving automobile industry,
while Heilongjiang is famed for its Harbin Ice Festival. WU DA
LIAN CHI
Keshan
Gannan Fuyu
Qiqihar
Mingshui
ZHALONG NATURE
RESERVE Taikang
Nen Daqing
Tailai Jiang Anda
Zhenlai Zhaodong
Da’an
Zhaoyuan
Taonan
Qianguo
Tongyu Fuyu
Dehui
The ornate paifang or gateway to the rugged scenery of Bingyu Valley Nong’an
(Bingyu Gou), Liaoning Changling
CHANGCHUN
Gongzhuling
Yitong
Siping
Sights at a Glance Liaoyuan
1 Shenyang
2 Jinzhou Panshi
Chifeng Kaiyuan
Zhangwu
3 Dandong Meihekou
He
4 Bingyu Valley Liao
Beipiao Fuxin SHENYANG
5 Dalian Chaoyang
Beining Fushun Tonghua
6 Changchun
7 Jilin Lingyuan LIAONING Liaoyang
8 Changbai Shan pp454–5 JINZHOU
Benxi Ji’an
9 Harbin Jianchang Anshan
Huludao
0 Mudanjiang Jingpo Hu
a lu
Haicheng Kuandian
Yingkou Y
q Zhalong Nature Reserve Suizhong
Liaodong Gaizhou Fengcheng
w Wu Da Lian Chi and the Wan
DANDONG
River Border Beijing
BINGYU VALLEY
Changxing Dao
Zhuanghe
Xizhong Dao Pulandian
Wan Changshan
i an
and Jinxian Qundao
Pul
DALIAN
Huma
Heihe
Xunke
Am
Sunwu ur
( He
ilon Offering incense at the Buddhist Jile Si, Harbin
He
gJ
ia
Zhan
ng
Jiayin
)
(Chaoyang)
Bei’an g)
an
g Ji
ilon
r (He
u
Yichun
Am
Luobei
Tongjiang Key
Hailun Hegang
a Jiang
Songhu Fujin Expressway
Huachuan Raohe Main road
Suihua Jiamusi Minor road
Shuangyashan
HEILONGJIANG Main railroad
n
Yilan Baoqing a
Bayan Huanan Sh Other railroad
Tonghe
Hulan n d a Hulin International border
Boli Wa
HARBIN Qitaihe Provincial border
g
Acheng Mishan
Mudan Jian
Jixi Summit
Shangzhi
Linkou
ng
Muling
Wuchang
Li
Mudanjiang
e
Shulan
y
Dongjing o Suifenhe
La 0 km 150
JINGPO HU Dongning
Jiaohe 0 miles 150
JILIN
Dunhua Wangqing
JILIN Pan L
in g
Antu
Huadian
Yanji Hunchun
Getting There
Fusong Erdaobaihe
The major cities – Shenyang,
Baishan CHANGBAI SHAN Dalian, Changchun, Harbin, and
Jilin – are connected to Beijing
Linjiang by air and rail. There are express
buses from Beijing to Shenyang,
Dalian, and Changchun. Regular
trains and buses also ply within
the region. A few flights operate
between the major cities,
including Harbin and Dalian. In
winter, popular destinations such
as Jilin and Harbin are relatively
easy to reach, while remoter
areas such as Jingpo Hu and
Changbai Shan are more difficult
to access. Within cities, taxis are
The icy blue waters of the volcanic Tian Chi – Heaven’s Lake – in Changbai Shan the best option.
436 THE NORTHEAST
A PORTRAIT OF THE
NORTHEAST
Sandwiched between Russia, Korea, and Inner Mongolia, the three
northeastern provinces constitute China’s easternmost extent. Even though
the prevalent culture is Han Chinese, the northeast’s geography, history, and
extended external boundaries have shaped a distinct regional identity. The
region’s attractions range from the bustling sprawl of its big cities to the rugged
and sublime terrain beyond, and the cultural mix of its border towns.
It is hard to categorize the northeast from 1644 until 1912. Shenyang, Liaoning’s
(Dongbei) – it enjoys hot summers but present capital, became the Manchu
glacial winters, and although heavy capital in 1625, and the site of the Imperial
industry and socialist planning blight Palace. Here they perfected their Eight
some cityscapes, others sport elegant Banner system of color-coded hereditary
pockets of colonial architecture. While social and administrative divisions
parts of the region have been reveling in (see pp438–9). Taking advantage of the
China’s economic boom, others have overthrow of the Ming dynasty in 1644,
suffered from chronic unemployment. they moved their capital to the Forbidden
Encompassing the three provinces of City in Beijing. Even today, the region’s
Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang, the Manchu population take great pride
northeast was a latecomer to the Chinese in their heritage and still adhere to the
empire and is sometimes considered as Eight Banners.
little more than an appendix to the rest of In more recent times, the northeast
the country. As part of former Manchuria, attracted the attentions of Russia and
however, it was the cradle of the Japan, both of which have helped shape
magnificent civilization that ruled China the region’s destiny. At the end of the
Trans-Siberian Railway
The term Trans-Siberian Railway refers to three services:
the Trans-Siberian, the Trans-Mongolian, and the Trans-
Manchurian. In 1891 Russia decided to join the extremities
of its empire by rail. A short cut through Manchuria was
negotiated with China and the line was completed in 1903.
War with Japan forced the Russians to cede the railroad to
them in 1905 and build a new line skirting Manchuria – the
Trans-Siberian route was finished in 1916. The Trans-Mongolian
route was added in the 1940s and 50s. In an era of jet travel, Conductor and train on the
this epic week-long journey is an experience not to be missed. Trans-Siberian Railway
Trans-Manchurian Railway
The Vostok makes the 6-day trip once a week from
Beijing through Shanhaiguan and Harbin, before
The Trans-
heading through the spectacular Manchurian plain,
Mongolian is
the huge expanse of Russia, and back.
probably the most
interesting route of
the three: it goes
through China –
past the Great Wall
and Datong, site of
the Yungang Caves;
via Mongolia and its
grasslands; and
finally through the
expanse of Russia.
However, it also
requires three visas.
HEILONGJIANG
JILIN
LIAONING
The region was once part of erstwhile restaurants, while strong Korean
Manchuria, and the lavish palace of the influences color Dandong town, situated
Manchu kings at Shenyang in the heart along the North Korean border. Also
of Liaoning stands testament to their straddling the border is the rugged,
might. On Liaoning’s balmier southern spectacular Changbai Shan Reserve,
coast, Dalian features scenic coastal which abounds in lush, jagged peaks
drives and fine, sandy beaches. With the and hiking opportunities. Its volcanic
only ice-free port in the area, it was lake, Tian Chi, is China’s deepest,
coveted by both Japan and Russia, rumored to be home to a mysterious
and occupied continuously by one or aquatic beast.
the other between 1895 and 1955. Other natural attractions include
Japan’s imperialist stamp also survives Liaoning’s Bingyu Valley with its towering
in Jilin’s capital, Changchun, from where rock formations, Heilongjiang’s volcanic
China’s last emperor, Pu Yi, ruled the lakes – Wu Da Lian Chi and Jingpo Hu –
Japanese state of Manchukuo as a mere and the huge bird sanctuary at Zhalong
puppet. In Heilongjiang, the city of Nature Reserve, whose marshy expanse
Harbin has heavy Russian overtones, supports hundreds of species of birds
clearly evident in its buildings and during the summer breeding season.
P Mao Statue
Zhongshan Square.
The statue of Mao Zedong
situated in Zhongshan Square
in downtown Shenyang stands
as a reminder of a vanished era.
Mao statues tower over public
squares across China, including
such far-flung outposts as Lijiang
(see pp396–8) in Yunnan and
Kashgar (see pp514–15) in Xinjiang,
but this example is perhaps the
most histrionic, depicting Mao’s
giant monolithic figure as a
superman in an overcoat.
A throng of visitors outside the Dazheng Hall, Imperial Palace North Pagoda
27 Beita Jie. Tel (024) 8662 5665.
P Imperial Palace palace is divided into three Open 9–11:30am, 2–4:30pm. &
171 Shenyang Lu. Tel (024) 2484 3001. sections. The dominating feature Built between 1643 and 1645,
Open summer: 8:30am–5:30pm, of the central section is the Bei Ta is the only one of four
winter: 9am–4:30pm. & ^ interiors. Chongzheng Hall, from where temples and pagodas situated
∑ en.sypm.org.cn Abahai oversaw political affairs on the city boundaries in a
Second only in scale to the and received envoys from decent state of repair. The
Forbidden City in Beijing, the vassal lands and border surviving features of
Imperial Palace, also called territories. In the court- the original pagoda
Shenyang Gugong, is Shen- yard behind the hall, the are the Great Hall and
yang’s premier historical sight, Qingning Palace is Falun Temple.
situated in what was the center where the emperor and
of the old city. Its construction his concubines resided. E 18 September
began in 1625, during the reign The Phoenix Tower, the Museum
of Nurhachi (1559–1626), leader tallest structure in the 46 Wanghua Nanjie. Tel
of the Manchus. In 1644, imperial grounds can (024) 8832 0918. Open 9am–
Manchu troops breached the be found here too. 4pm Tue–Sun. ^
Great Wall at Shanhaiguan (see In the western The Jiuyiba Lishi
p134) and swarmed into China section, the Wensu Bowuguan com-
to establish the Qing dynasty. Pavilion formerly memorates the
Serving as the imperial housed one of Wei Tuo Buddha, North occupation of
residence of both Nurhachi and seven copies of the Pagoda Shenyang on
his son and heir Abahai, the 36,078-volume Siku September 18, 1931
palace is composed of 300 Quanshu (Complete Library of the by Japanese troops. Its exhibits
rooms. While its features reflect Four Treasures), an encyclopedic make up the most comprehen-
a pronounced Manchu and collection of Chinese literature sive chronicle of the Japanese
Mongol influence, the palace compiled in the Qing era, of aggression in Manchuria. Like
was obviously an attempt to which only four sets survive. The other museums with a similar
emulate its Ming counterpart, Dazheng Hall is the central theme, some of the displays can
the Forbidden City, Beijing. The feature of the eastern section, be rather gruesome.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4
LIAONING, JILIN & HEILONGJIANG 445
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
440 miles (700 km) NE of Beijing.
* 5,000,000. n Bldg A, 290
Shigu Dalu, (024) 2295 8888.
Transportation
k Shenyang Airport. £ South
train station or North train station.
@ South bus station (provincial
trains), Express bus station (national
trains), CAAC (buses to airport).
2 Mao Statue
BEIL ING JIE
3 North Pagoda
4 18 September Museum Beiling Park
18 September
5 North Tomb Pagoda of Museum
Buddhist Ashes LU
Zhongyiyaodaxue CHO NGSH AN DON G
G LU North
CHO NGSH AN ZHON
E
JI
Pagoda
HUANGHE JIE
U
H
G
N
Qishanlu A
W
North
Shenyang Beizhan
Station
LU Express
N
HA Bus Station
IZ
BE
Jinrongzhongxin
Shifuguangchang
East Tomb
SHIFU DA LU SHIFU DA LU
IE
XI ZHONG JIE
IJ
G SH A
EN
0 miles 1 ZH O N
SH
LU Imperial
CHAOYA NG JIE
Liaoning XI Palace
DA
ve r
N
CAAC
D A JI
Nan-
Na
NA
NW Taiyuanjie Shichang
E
U
LU
LU
E I LU
G
Qingniangongyuan
ANW
PIN
South Bus S H IS
Station Airport
HE
The Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao, that once connected China with North Korea
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp583–4
LIAONING, JILIN & HEILONGJIANG 447
coast, Xinghai Square was built the perennial ice-free waters. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to commemorate the return of Known as Port Arthur, it was the
Hong Kong to China in 1997. chief naval base for the Chinese Practical Information
Beiyang fleet from the mid- 180 miles (300 km) S of Shenyang.
Y Donghai Park 19th century, and was seized * 3,400,000. _ Locust Flower
Binhai Bei Lu. Tel (0411) 8273 1569. by the Japanese during the Festival (Spring). n 9 Jie Fang
Open 6am–9pm daily. Sino-Japanese War (1894–5). Road, (0411) 836 91165.
P Japanese-Russian Prison
139 Xiangyong Jie. @ 2, 3, 5
Tel. (0411) 8661 0675/6. Open
9am–3:30pm daily (until 3pm in
A cruise liner docked near Xinghai Square winter). 8
4 Renmin Square
5 Donghai Park
Airport
4 km (3 miles) Dalian Bay
H
U
A
BE
LU
Xianglujiao
I
S H U G A NG LU Tianjin Je IN
LU CH
AN Yellow Sea
NM GJ
RE IA NG
Dalian Bus ZHONGSHAN LU
Station SQUARE BI N HA
Dalian Train I
CH
CHA LU
NG JI A N G Station
AO J I E
U
L
YA
LU
AN
NG
GSH
M a lan ZH ON O N G NAN LU
ZH
RENMIN Labor Donghai
SQUARE Park Park
X I ’AN LU
JIE
FA
DO
NG
Bangchuidao
NG
LU
B E I LU Scenic Area
BIN
Sun Asia
Ocean World
HA L U
LU
JI EFA
CH Y I N G
N
UN
G
B I N H AI LU
AN LU
SH Xinghai BI N H
Beach
G
AI L Tiger Beach
O LU
N
U
ZH Heishijiao Fujiazhuang Yanwoling Scenic Area
Bus Station Scenic Area Park
LUSHUN
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4
452 THE NORTHEAST
} Zhuque Shan
Taxi from Jilin train station. Open daily.
& Ski gear available.
} Songhua Lake
@ from train station to lake, then taxi
The delicate frost that covers Jilin’s trees each year to ski resorts.
454 THE NORTHEAST
8 Changbai Shan
BEIHE Tianweng
Feng
Longmen
. Changbai Waterfall Feng
Tian Chi releases huge quantities of water
(the mountains are capped with snow
between October and June) creating this
dramatic 225-ft (68-m) high waterfall near Jinping
the volcanic crater. Feng
Ginseng
The root of the ginseng (Panax ginseng)
plant has been valued in China for
thousands of years for its healing and
rejuvenating properties. Native to Korea
and northeast China, ginseng is a slow- 0 kilometers 1
growing herbaceous perennial that is
0 miles 1
widely farmed (although wild specimens
are most highly prized). Ginseng from
northeast China is especially esteemed and The root and leaves of the
was once protected under imperial edict to Key
ginseng plant
prevent overharvesting. Its efficacy does not International border
develop until the plant is around six years of age.
Path
Premium-quality wild ginseng is very expensive costing
US$150–450 per gram. However, buyer beware; the market
is awash with fake produce.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4
LIAONING, JILIN & HEILONGJIANG 455
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
16 miles (25 km) S of Baihe;
350 miles (560 km) E of Jilin. n
(0432) 6243 5683. Open Jun–Sep
(snowbound the rest of the year).
Last bus back to Baihe 4pm. &
8 from Jilin (CITS). 0 -
Transportation
~ @ or £ to Baihe, then bus
or taxi.
NORTH
KOREA
Bai Yun
Feng
B E IM
LU JIE
TA I G U
U
L
ng
Park
6 Sun Island Park YOUYI
JI N G
Zhaolin
So
U
YO
G AO
ZHO NG YA
G JI
JIN Jile Si
8 Jile Si
DA JIE
Y I JI
GW
E
Jiuzhan EI
Church of
E
JIE
I
ZH
AN
QINYANG Y IM
A
D
SQUARE
G
JIH O NG JIE
N
JIE
O
D
G UO
JIE
Train FE Children’s
N
G
Station D
AN
Park
AN
HO O
U
NY
NG LU & Railway
JU
XI
Provincial N
LU
Airport Museum
22 km (13 miles) Huayen
E
JI
PINGFANG Bus
Si
I
ZH
ZH
Station JIE
ON
G
A
AN
ID
GS
CH
X
HA
EN
W
N
0 km 1
LU
Dragonfly fossils
like this reveal even
the delicate tracery
of the insect’s
wings. This amazing
detail was retained
thanks to a thin dusting
of fine volcanic ash that was
followed by a thick layer of mud,
preventing oxidation and rapid decay.
S h
Yengisar Q
Ta k l a m a k a n S h a m o
Sa
ai Da Qaidam
riko
da
Yarkand Qiemo n
t u
m Delingha
A l
Mang'ai Pe
l Range
Kargilik nd
i
Hotan Dulan
n
S h a
Golmud
K u n l u n Burhan Bud
ai Shan
Shigatse
QINGHAI
Dogai ng
To
Coring tia
n
He
Wenquan
Yushu
Getting Around
There are airports in the major
towns and cities, while the rail
network is confined to trunk
routes linking major centers.
Independent travelers will
need to use local bus services,
which are comprehensive but
crowded and uncomfortable.
Because of the distances
involved, visitors are likely to
focus on one area at a time –
the Silk Road or the Mongolian
Buddha sculpture at Bingling Si, Gansu, still retaining some of its original color grasslands, for example.
Jiayuguan Fort, the farthest outpost safeguarding the civilized world of the Ming dynasty
INTRODUCING INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD 465
ing
Ergun
an L
Manzhouli
ng'
Hulun Haila’er
Zalantun
Nur
Xi
Da
The Yellow River at Shapotou, an oasis at the edge of the encroaching desert Ulanhot
Hulingol
Bayan Ul Tongliao
Xilinhot
Linxi
Erenhot
Chifeng
INNER Baochang
Jinzhou
MONGOLIA
Dalain Hob Baotou
Linhe Hohhot Beijing
e
Huang H
an Dongsheng
Sh Datong 0 km 300
rai Wuhai
b
Ya 0 miles 300
Jinchang Yinchuan
Zhangye
Zhongwei
Wuwei
NINGXIA
a GANSU
Qinghai
Hu Lanzhou
Xining Guyuan
Linxia Pingliang
A’n Luomen
y êm Langmusi
aq Tianshui
ên Xi’an
Sha
n
Longnan
INNER MONGOLIA
& NINGXIA
XINJIANG
GANSU
& QINGHAI
A PORTRAIT OF
INNER MONGOLIA &
THE SILK ROAD
This vast region, comprising Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, Gansu, Qinghai, and
Xinjiang, covers a significant proportion of the total area of China. Although
sparsely populated, the area’s appeal lies in its magnificent landscape, the
distinctive lifestyles of its indigenous peoples, and its Silk Road past. This
fabled trade route’s legacies are visible everywhere, from historic sights to the
Islamic religion.
Bordering the Mongolian Republic and However, historic cultural identities have
Russia to the north, the Central Asian been retained, and this, together with the
states to the west, and the Indian region’s distinctive geography, means that
subcontinent to the south, this region Inner Mongolia and the northwest have
is now indissolubly attached to China a different character to most of China.
as a result of vigorously pursued Chinese Because of this, these three areas –
hegemony. Today, although the local Ningxia, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia –
population is largely Han, they have are not officially provinces but so-called
little in common with the area’s Autonomous Regions, where the Hui,
indigenous peoples. Only the eastern Uighur, and Mongolian peoples theoreti-
portion of Gansu seems naturally to cally have a measure of self-government.
form part of China proper. Gansu to the In practice, any autonomy is superficial,
west of Lanzhou and the other provinces though local languages are spoken and
are at best indifferent to, and at worst in religions practiced resonably freely.
uneasy thrall to the government in Beijing, Although the communities are united
which has often ruled with callous by their ethnic minority status, the region
disregard for local sentiments. For the is by no means a cohesive entity. For
Chinese, there still lingers a historic example, the Mongolians and Uighur
suspicion of the “barbarians” living beyond are only connected by the fact of their
the frontier marked by the course of the inclusion within the political borders of
Great Wall. China. Mongolia’s grasslands are inhabited
Tied down
skillfully to
withstand fierce
winds, the outer
and inner skins The frame comes apart for easy trans-
are made of portation. The wooden poles (orange like
canvas, with an the sun) are called uni; between ten and
insulating layer fifteen of them support each of the khanas,
of felt between. or sections of wall.
INTRODUCING INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD 469
Colorful banners
are carried by riders
at the competitive
Nadaam Festival.
Mongolian wrestling, a favorite event
at the Nadaam Festival along with
equestrianism and archery, has no
weight classes and no time limits. The
winner is the one who throws or trips
his opponent in such a way that some
part of his body touches the ground.
Desertification
Leather saddles have Hardy Mongolian The incursion of dry soil into fertile lands,
replaced the less comfortable pony desertification is caused by overworking the
traditional wooden version. soil and inappropriate irrigation, a major
problem in China. In Inner Mongolia, it is
severely affecting the traditional way of life,
as it destroys grazing pastures. Poor farmers
swarm to the area to harvest facai or “get rich”
grasses, removing the
topsoil’s anchoring root-
structure. Mongols have
been encouraged to
abandon the pastoral life
and settle as farmers and
so increase the pressures
on the land.
Inside is warm and comfortable. A stove sits in
the center of the ger, while the back is reserved Once-rich grassland reduced
for the family altar and is the place for elders and to infertile sand
honored guests.
470 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
Detail from the Catalan Map This cross is evidence of Nestorianism in China
Made in the 14th century for Charles V of France, around the 8th century AD. Other religions to
this map gives an indication of the extent of make it to China include Islam, Judaism, and
geographical knowledge as it stood during the Manicheanism, a Babylonian religion based on
later Middle Ages. The inclusion of China was the opposing principles of Light and Darkness.
helped by Marco Polo’s account.
INNER MONGOLIA
& NINGXIA
INNER
MONGOLIA
This area comprises two autonomous regions, Inner Mongolia,
stretching across northern China in an enormous arc, and
NINGXIA
Ningxia, China’s smallest province after the island of Hainan. The
region’s main attractions are its great landscapes and the unique
cultures of its minority people.
Much of Inner Mongolia consists of rolling grasslands dotted with the traditional tents
(gers or yurts) of the nomadic Mongols. The capital of Hohhot is the most convenient place
to join a tour and experience their traditional way of life, while the more adventurous can
head north to the towns of Xilinhot and Haila’er, where vast tracts of untouched wilderness
lie waiting to be explored. The historic Mongolian homeland was made up of the
independent Republic of Mongolia, Inner Mongolia (now in China), and parts of Siberia.
Bordering Inner Mongolia to the south, Ningxia was first established in 1928. In the 1950s,
it became part of Gansu, and in 1958 was designated an autonomous region for the
indigenous Hui (see p479). Living in pockets throughout China, the Muslim Hui descended
from Arab Silk Road traders, but are now largely assimilated with the Han culture. Despite
some industrialization, Ningxia is a largely undeveloped region with a smattering of
interesting sights. At the foot of the scenic Helan mountains near the capital of Yinchuan
stand the crumbling tombs of the Western Xia dynasty. The Xumi Shan Caves near Guyuan
are another key sight, with a wealth of Buddhist carvings.
Nur
8 Yinchuan 4 Xilinhot Zalantun
q Zhongwei
Yirshi
111
Xi Ujimqin Qi
Abag Qi Tongliao
5
Erenhot
G4
207
Habirag Chifeng
Ejin Qi Huade
Wuyuan Jining
Bayan Mod
G6
Wuhai Horinger
Key
G18
Otog Qi Expressway
G2 National Highway
0 5
G6 Minor road
Zhongning
Railroad
G7
0
International border
Longde Provincial border
0 km 250
Great Wall
0 miles 250
Yurts in the Xilamuren grassland, Inner Mongolia For additional map symbols see back flap
474 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
1 Hohhot
Da Zhao
Da Nan Jie. Tel (0471) 630 3154.
Open 8am–6:30pm daily. & Wusutu Zhao, Hohhot’s Mongolian-style temple
The largest Buddhist temple in
the city, the Da Zhao is located Wu Ta Si carved into its walls, each differing
in a narrow alley just west of Da 48 Wutasi Qian Jie. Tel (0471) 597 slightly from the others. Inside is a
Nan Jie. Similar in style and 2640. Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily rare Mongolian cosmological
layout to the Xilitu Zhao, it was (until 5pm in winter). & map carved onto a large
originally built in 1579, and Just south of Qingcheng stone that
renovated during the 1990s. The Park, amid the remains of illustrates a zodiac
shrine was dedicated to the the old city, the Indian- and the positions
Qing Emperor Kangxi in the late style Wu Ta Si (Five of numerous stars.
17th century, and murals in the Pagodas Temple) is
main hall commemorate his visit. one of Hohhot’s most Wusutu Zhao
An astounding 10-ft (3-m) silver attractive buildings. It 7 miles (12 km) NW
Sakyamuni Buddha is among was constructed in of Hohhot. Open
the temple’s many treasures. 1727 as part of Guardian, Wusutu Zhao 8am–6pm daily. &
Da Zhao also boasts an another temple that Founded in 1606, the
extensive collection of musical has now disappeared. The predominantly Mongolian-style
instruments and dragon distinctive five pagodas Wusutu Zhao includes some
sculptures, and is the venue surmount a solid-looking base Chinese and Tibetan features.
for Buddhist festivals held that contains a smallish temple Inside the monastery there are
through the year. with 1,563 images of the Buddha Ming-dynasty murals on display
as well as some intricate
woodcarvings with imperial
dragon motifs. The name
“wusutu” means “near
to water” in Mongolian. The
nearby grasslands and Daqing
mountains make pleasant day-
trips from town.
Bai Ta
9 miles (15km) east of Hohhot
The open grasslands, traditional home to nomadic Mongols Open dawn–dusk daily.
Bai Ta (White Pagoda) is a seven-
The Grasslands storied, octagonal structure. It
Mongolia’s history is linked to its grasslands, and for many people, the
was first built in the 10th century
classic image of the Mongolian landscape is unbroken grassy steppe to house Buddhist scriptures
spreading to the horizon. The steppe provides fodder for the horses dating from the Liao dynasty (see
and sheep that support the Mongolians’ nomadic lifestyle. The three p64). Over 180ft (55m) high, and
grassland areas accessible from Hohhot are Xilamuren, 50 miles made of wood and brick, it has
(80 km) north; Huitengxile, 75 miles (120 km) northeast; and some striking carvings inspired
Gegentela, 93 miles (150 km) north. The easiest way to explore them by Chinese mythology and
is by taking a tour that includes a stay in a village of traditional tents nature, including coiled dragons,
(gers), where visitors attend a banquet and watch Mongolian sports. flowers, and birds. A winding
Though obviously stage-managed, they do show something of staircase leads to the top, from
Mongolian culture. One can also travel independently by hiring a where there are panoramic
horse, or negotiating an overnight stay in a ger belonging to a local. views. Bai Ta is best reached by
taking a taxi from town.
476 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
3 Dongsheng
Genghis Khan
Born in 1162 to the head of the Kiyat-Borjigen tribe, Genghis Khan (or Chinggis Khan)
was given the name Temujin. A born fighter, as a teenager he killed his half-brother and
in 1206 he was proclaimed Genghis Khan (meaning universal king). He unified Mongolia’s
warring fiefdoms into a huge army of up to 200,000 warriors that invaded China and
much of Asia, and eventually created one of the greatest land empires in history. The
secret of his success was the skilful use of cavalry and the toughness of the Mongolians,
who could survive on very little. Their dietary needs were met either from their horses or
from the countryside. Genghis died in 1227, before the capture of Peking, after falling
from his horse. In fact it was after his death that the Mongol armies made most of their
conquests, but it was thanks to his organization and determination in the first place.
Mongol Empire
The empire of Genghis Khan’s successors at its greatest extent The Mongolian
shown on a modern map bow’s unique shape
gave it a better range Lance for
than standard bows.
close-quarters fighting
8 Yinchuan
Practical Information
50 miles (85 km) S of
Set in the desert near the town of Qingtongxia Zhen, the
Yinchuan. Tel (0953) 301 2868.
108 Dagobas stand in 12 gleaming rows, spread out Open 8am–6:30pm daily. &
in a perfect triangular formation overlooking the Yellow
Transportation
River. A Buddhist monument, it is not clear exactly what £ or @ from Yinchuan to
their purpose is. Traditionally it has been thought that they Qingtongxia Zhen, minibus or taxi.
were placed here during the Yuan Dynasty (1279–1368)
but there may be some link to the Western Xia Empire. Parasol protects The highest
The number 108 is significant in Chinese numerology: from evil reality
there are 108 prayer beads in a Buddhist rosary – and the
same number of possible sins or worries.
Sometimes hollow
– used to store relics
Base represents
. Hillside Location the earth
Impressive as the dagobas are, a good reason . The Dagobas
for visiting them is to get out in the peaceful Like the Indian stupa, the
surrounding hills and do a bit of walking. dagoba is a deeply symbolic
Here you can find quiet temples at the top icon. In early Buddhist art,
of some testing steps as well as flowing Buddha was never shown in
calligraphy carved into the rockfaces. human form, instead a stupa
became his symbol.
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Mountains, Caves & Lakes Monasteries & Temples
3 Langmusi 1 Maiji Shan pp484–5 4 Xiahe
5 Linxia 2 Luomen r Ta’er Si pp504–5
6 Lanzhou 7 Bingling Si
Key
8 Pingliang y Mengda Tian Chi
9 Wuwei u Qinghai Hu Expressway
0 Zhangye National Highway
w Dunhuang
Minor road
e Tongren
t Xining Railroad
i Golmud Provincial border
Historic Site Great Wall of Cwhina
q Jiayuguan Fort pp496–7
Gongpoquan
G30 0 km 200
Anxi
Jiuquan
0 miles 200
Yumen Gaotai
Lenghuzhen
215
Shandan
Minqin
Changweiliang
Youshashan
Mang'ai 315 Obo
Da Qaidam Tianjun
G30
Tianzhu Huanxian
Delingha Jingyuan
5
21
Boluntay
Dulan Gonghe Dingxi
109
Huashixia Longxi Jingchuan
Wudaoliang
Henan G30
214
Nangqên
The steep stairway up the side of Maiji Shan, Gansu For additional map symbols see back flap
484 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
1 Maiji Shan
The site of one of China’s most important groups of
Buddhist carvings, 465-ft (142-m) high Maiji Shan
(Corn Rick Mountain) was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 2014. It is likely that the first sculptures
were made around the end of the 4th century AD, and
work continued up to the Qing dynasty. It provides an
invaluable insight into the development of Chinese
Buddhist artistic style. Almost 200 caves survive and are Maiji Shan, said to resemble a
reached by a series of precipitous stairways. However, corn rick or haystack from afar
many of the best caves are closed and the gloomy
interiors have to be viewed through grilles, so bring
a flashlight.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p584
GANSU & QINGHAI 485
. Gallery Views
There are excellent views
across the countryside from
the network of walkways on
the cliff face of Maiji Shan. If
time allows, a hike around the
arboretum at the foot of the
cliff is recommended.
486 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
4 Xiahe
Practical Information
The most important center of the Yellow Hat Sect (Gelugpa) Xiahe 175 miles (280 km) SW of
outside Tibet, the Labrang Monastery (Labuleng Si) attracts Lanzhou. Tel (0941) 712 1095.
Open 8am–noon, 2–6pm daily.
thousands of Tibetan pilgrims each year. As a result of the & 8 required for the main
Cultural Revolution the monastery was closed until 1980 and temple. _ Monlam Festival
the number of monks reduced from 4,000 to about 1,500. Set (see p50).
in an auspicious location with mountains to the north and the Transportation
Daxia River to the south, the impressive monastery buildings @ Linxia, Lanzhou, or Tongren.
are joined by a haphazard maze of alleyways that makes it a
fascinating place to wander around.
was, and still is, a way for
the largely illiterate Tibetan
18 Buddha temples, people to pray.
offices for the Living Within the prayer wheels
Buddha, and many stands the Gongtang Pagoda,
hundreds of residences south of the main road. At nearly
for the monks. The 100-ft (31-m) high it comprises
monastery is also an five levels topped with a gold-
academic institution and colored stupa containing
holds an assortment of thousands of sutras and Buddha
around 60,000 sutras and statues. You can climb up to
specialized books. The the upper level and get an
large halls are colleges oustanding view over the
for the monks to monastery and town. Parts of
study a variety of Labrang can only be
degrees such as visited as a member of a
mathematics, tour group, although
astronomy, much of the monastery
medicine, and can be freely explored.
other more There are a couple of
esoteric subjects. tours in English each day.
Main prayer hall, Labrang Monastery The Grand Visitors should be
Sutra Hall is the sensitive to the religious
Exploring the Labrang grandest of the nature of the site.
Monastery buildings and Xiahe is also famous for
This monastery was founded in can hold up to 4,000 its Monlam festival. Seen
1709 during the forty-eighth monks. It is an by thousands who have
year of the reign of the Qing impressive sight to Senior Yellow come from all over the
Kangxi emperor by a local monk, see the monks chanting Hat monk country, a huge thangka
E’ang Zongzhe. He became the outside the hall each of Buddha is unfurled and
first generation Living Buddha, morning as they wait to go in sanctified on a screen to the
or Jiemuyang, who ranks third and pray. Labrang has a south of the Daxia River. There
in the Tibetan hierarchy after multitude of prayer wheels set follow several days of festivities,
the Dalai and Panchen Lamas. in a long line that encircles the including processions, musical
The monastery’s buildings came monastery. Spinning these performances, and dances.
through the Cultural Revolution
relatively unscathed, but in 1985
a fire seriously damaged the
Grand Sutra Hall, which has
subsequently been fully
restored. Today the sprawling
monastery complex dominates
the town. If it weren’t for the ring
of prayer wheels that encircle
the monastery, it would be
difficult to see where the town
ends and the monastery starts.
The monastery is built in
a typical Tibetan style and
consists of six grand halls for
the study of scriptures or sutras, View over the monastery with the gleaming Gongtang Pagoda to the left
488 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
6 Lanzhou
ZHO
modern town of Linxia has a D
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along the Silk Road. The town is
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still a good place to break the
A
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E Gansu Provincial Museum worth a visit for this alone. Also VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
3 Xijin Xi Lu. Tel (0931) 233 9712. worth seeing are the bronze
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. chariots, with horses and Practical Information
This museum is set in an old attendants, from a tomb in the 425 miles (680 km) W of Xi’an.
Soviet-style building west same area, as well as a fine * 2,180,000. n Lanzhou CITS,
of town. The ground floor collection of Yangshao 10/F, Tourism Building, Nongmin
has a natural history pottery dating from the Xiang, (0931) 881 3222.
section with a mammoth late Neolithic period. Transportation
skeleton found in the Other relics include Silk ~ Lanzhou Zhongchuan airport,
Yellow River in 1973. Road carvings, wooden 42 miles (70 km) N of city. £
Captioned in English, the spills, statuary, and Lanzhou train station. @ CAAC
history section upstairs is writing tablets. In the (buses to airport), East bus
best known for the striking garden, a mock tomb station, Main bus station, West
2,000-year-old bronze recreates burials in bus station.
Flying Horse statue at
Flying Horse, with its hoof Lanzhou’s train station the Jiayuguan area
resting on the back of a in the late 3rd and
swallow, that was discovered in early 4th centuries. A large exhibit Y Wuquan Shan Gongyuan
an Eastern Han tomb in Wuwei. commemorates the Long March. Tel (0931) 824 3247.
Open 7am–8pm daily.
Also set in the south of town,
La
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70 kkm (4242 m
miles)
miile
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les) Wuquan Shan Gongyuan (Five
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(Hua traditional garden, with its
ver
Ye l l o w R i NA N B I NH
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A D
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DONG ROAD
BI N H E and myriad pavilions. The hill is
PING LIANG R
NAN
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said to be the place where the
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RO
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Han General Huo Qubing
Lan
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haan
an quartered his cavalry as he
Gon
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an
Key to Symbols see back flap mounted an expedition to the
northwest. According to one
legend, he cut at the rocks until
E Baiyi Si and City Museum Y Lan Shan Gongyuan the water he needed for his
110 Qingyang Dong Lu. Open 9am– Tel (0931) 877 5011. Open 8:30am– horses and men gushed forth.
5:30pm daily. 5pm daily. Of the several temples on the
Baiyi Si, with its temple South of the city, Lan Shan site, Chongqing Si dates back
and accompanying stupa, Gongyuan (Lan Shan Park) to 1372, and houses an iron bell
was built during can be reached by cast in 1202. Despite its venerable
the Ming dynasty chairlift from Wuquan origins, modern materials like
(1368–1644) and Shan Gongyuan. The concrete have been used
now houses 20-minute ride to the several times in restoring the
Lanzhou’s small top is a pleasant way temple, and it is now an artistic
City Museum Ornamental door knob, Rui to escape the summer blend of Soviet and traditional
Qingyang Lu. The Yuan Si, Wuquan Shan heat. It is a great spot Chinese design. Another one
small temple’s to watch the sunsets of the oldest buildings in the
unusual location, dwarfed by the and the city lights at night. park, the Ming-dynasty Jingang
department stores of Lanzhou’s There are an amusement park Palace houses an impressive
main shopping district, makes it and several eateries. A trail leads 16-ft (5-m) bronze Buddha,
appear strikingly out of place, and to Wuquan Shan Gongyuan. reputedly cast in 1370.
490 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
The enormous seated Buddha carved into a cliff, Cave 172, Bingling Si 8 Pingliang
7 Bingling Si bodhisattvas that are among
the oldest and best preserved 195 miles (325 km) E of Lanzhou. £
in China, though an additional
56 miles (90 km) SW of Lanzhou. @ to fee is required to access the Hidden in the hills in a
Liujia Xia Reservoir, then boat to caves. cave. Most of the other caves mountainous region near
Tel (0930) 887 9070. Open Apr–Oct, were completed during the the Gansu–Ningxia border is
when the water level in reservoir is
Tang era. The most impressive the sleepy town of Pingliang.
high. & 8 from Lanzhou.
cave, No. 172, has an 89-ft Surrounded by beautiful peaks,
The magnificent group of (27-m) high seated statue some of which rise to heights
Buddhist caves at Bingling of Maitreya (the of 6,890 ft (2,100 m), it
Si (Bright Spirit Temple) is one Future Buddha). remains one of the least-
of the most intriguing sights Work on the sculp- visited parts of the
in Gansu. Buddhism arrived in tures continued long province and is mostly
China along the Silk Road, and after the Silk Road used as a convenient
these caves are among the had lost its impor- base for exploring
earliest significant Buddhist tance, and there Kongtong Shan,
monuments in the country. are examples of Carved stele, Kongtong a Daoist monastery,
Carved into sheer cliffs, the work from the Song, Shan, Pingliang 6 miles (10 km) west
caves stretch for about a mile Ming, and Qing of town. Perched
(1.6 km) along a 196-ft (60-m) dynasties. The paintings reached dramatically on a clifftop of the
high gorge. Isolated by the their height during the Song same name, the monastery sits
waters of the Liujiaxia Reservoir and Ming dynasties, although above a glittering lake and a
on the Yellow River, the splendid there are some older and few other temples scattered
sculptures and paintings were comparatively cruder paintings across the landscape. The
saved from damage during the dating back to the Tang period. surrounding area is excellent
Cultural Revolution, and remain Getting to the caves can be for taking long walks across
in surprisingly good condition. slightly uncertain, as access the lush green hills.
Known as the Thousand Buddha
Caves, there are, in fact only 183
of them, of which 149 can be
more appropriately described
as niches.
The caves were created about
1,600 years ago during the
Northern Wei and Western Jin
dynasties. It is believed that the
artists hung down the cliffs on
ropes and chiseled out
sculptures from the rock-face.
The style of work is similar to
the Buddhist caves at Datong
and Luoyang. Most of the caves
contain rock-cut statues, clay
sculptures, and colorful frescoes.
One of the earliest caves, No.
169, dates to AD 420 and
contains a Buddha and two Kongtong Shan’s lush north peak, Pingliang
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and pp584–5
GANSU & QINGHAI 491
9 Wuwei
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and pp584–5
496 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
q Jiayuguan Fort
At the western extremity of the Great Wall stands the
Jiayuguan Fort, dominating the stony plain that separates
two mountain ranges. Built of tamped earth in 1372, in the
distinctive, embattled Ming-dynasty style, it was dubbed the
“Impregnable Defile Under Heaven.” It was of enormous
strategic importance as it controlled the only military and
trade link between China and the deserts of Central Asia.
The frontier lay some way farther west, but for the Chinese
Jiayuguan was the last outpost of civilization, beyond which Detail Inside Tower
lay barbarian country, a place of perdition, fit only for exiled As shown by these wooden
officials and banished criminals. doors, the interiors of the
towers were beautifully
painted in typical Ming style.
Trap Court
This was used to lure the enemy
into a place from where they
could be attacked from above.
It also served as a holding bay
for caravans.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and pp584–5
GANSU & QINGHAI 497
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
. Guanghua Men 3 miles (5 km) W of Jiayuguan.
Rising 56 ft (17 m) above the Tel (0937) 639 6058. Open July–
fortress walls, the gate tower Oct: 8am–5pm daily; Nov–Jun:
was originally completed 9am–5pm daily. & includes
in 1506, although like entry to the Great Wall Museum.
the others it has been
extensively renovated.
Guandi Temple
This provided spiritual
nourishment for the troops.
The temple would have
offered a mixture of
Buddhist, Daoist, and
Confucian ceremonies.
Old Theater
This was a later Qing-dynasty addition to
the fort and was used for entertaining the
troops stationed both at the fort and at
garrisons along the Great Wall.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p584
DUNHUANG 499
i Golmud
u Qinghai Hu
r Ta’er Si
Nestled into a hillside, this walled temple complex,
also known as Kumbum Monastery, is one of the most
important Tibetan Buddhist sites in China. Tsongkhapa,
founder of the Gelugpa sect (see p526), was born here in
1357, and the first temple was built in his honor in 1577.
The monastery was closed for a period under Communist
. Great Golden Roof Hall
rule, although the buildings were afforded protection This temple was built at the spot
during the Cultural Revolution, and reopened in 1979. where Tsongkhapa was born and
A major restoration project has been undertaken since a tree is said to have grown with
an earthquake rocked the complex in 1990. Ta’er Si is an image of the Buddha on each
leaf. It contains a silver stupa
easily accessible from Xining, and so is popular holding his image.
with both tourists and pilgrims.
Pilgrim
Turning
a hand-held
prayer wheel and
fingering prayer beads,
the devout walk clockwise
around the perimeter of
the complex.
KEY
1 Grand Kitchen
2 Prayer Hall
3 Dinkejing Hall . Great Hall of Meditation
4 Nine Room Hall This evocative chamber,
where up to 2,000 monks
5 Visitors who climb these
could gather to chant sutras,
steps are rewarded with views
is hung with silken thangkas.
across the valley.
The flat roof rests on grand
6 Dafangzhang Hall pillars, each wrapped in
an exquisite carpet.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and pp584–5
GANSU & QINGHAI 505
Chorten
A towering chorten of 46 ft (13 m) marks
the monastery’s entrance. The square
base symbolizes earth, the dome water,
the steps fire, and the parasol wind, all
of which is topped by a crown
representing the ethereal sphere.
Prayer Hall
This time-worn temple is still used for
religious tutelage. The external murals
are new, however, and show a mix
of Chinese and Tibetan influences.
INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD 507
XINJIANG
Although technically an autonomous region, Xinjiang is the
largest of China’s provinces and shares borders with eight
countries. This isolated region is largely desert and grassland
fringed by some of the highest mountains in the world.
Two thousand years ago a string of oasis towns were established along the Silk Road that
skirted the northern and southern edges of the scorching Taklamakan Desert. Trade attracted
merchants from India and Europe, and Xinjiang became the meeting point of East and West, with
Christian churches and Buddhist temples. At the end of the Tang era, Turkic tribes repeatedly
overran the region, and by the 15th century Islam was established as the main religion. In the
18th century, the Chinese took control of what was then Kashgaria and despite several revolts,
have maintained their rule ever since. Almost 50 percent of the population is comprised of ethnic
minorities and in 1955, in deference to the large Uighur population, the area became the
Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, with its capital at Ürümqi. Today, highlights of a visit
include the Tian Shan range and the rich pastures around Tian Chi (Heaven Lake) outside Ürümqi,
and Silk Road towns such as Turpan and Kashgar, shaded by grapevines and set against a
backdrop of desert and mountain. It is also possible to travel southwest over the Karakoram
mountains into Pakistan, or west into Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan over high mountain passes.
Sights at a Glance
Key
Towns & Cities Lakes, Mountains & Areas of
Natural Beauty Expressway
1 Turpan
2 Ürümqi 3 Tian Chi National Highway
5 Ghost City 4 Altay Minor road
8 Kuqa 6 Sayram Lake Railroad
9 Kashgar 7 Yining & Ili Valley
International border
q Yengisar 0 Karakoram Highway
w Yarkand Provincial border
e Kargilik Disputed border
r Hotan
Kanas
Burqin
Fuyun
Tacheng 0 km 200
7
21
0 miles 200
216
Urho
Toli
Karamay Shaqiuhe
Shihezi
Fukang
Usu Mori Barkol
G30
Yiwu
Zhaosu Narat K
a idu Xiaocaohu Hami Yandun
He
Baicheng 314 Kümüx Xingxingxia
Korla
Luntai
Akqi
G3
Aksu Kum
He Tikanlik
0
m
Tari Kuduk
Baykurt Yumen
Argan
21
DESERT
8
KLA MAKAN
Markit T A Ruoqiang
Xorkol
217
315
314
Qiemo 31
5
Taxkorgan Pishan
Qira
Akmeqit Minfeng
21
9
Xaidulla Golmud
Pulu
Dahongliutan
The beautiful Tian Chi, surrounded by mountains For additional map symbols see back flap
508 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
The ruined city of Jiaohe set against a backdrop of hills on a steep plateau
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
XINJIANG 509
P Bezeklik Caves
31 miles (50 km) E of town. @
minibus from town. Tel (0995) 868
9116. Open 8am–9pm daily (mid-
Oct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). & 8
Picturesquely situated in a
desert gorge high above the
Sengim River, the Bezeklik Caves
once formed part of a Buddhist
monastery between the 6th and The Bezeklik Caves situated in a spectacular river gorge
510 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROAD
2 Ürümqi
Islam in China
Islam probably came to Xinjiang via the Silk Road in the 9th century, some 200 years
after Arab sailors had landed in southern China. By the Ming dynasty, Muslims had
flourished and become fully integrated into Han society without losing their dress and
dietary customs. Despite hostile regimes and upheavals, there is now a significant
Muslim population of about 13 million. These comprise the Xinjiang nationalities –
Uighur, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Tatars, and Uzbeks of the northwest – and the large
contingent of Chinese-speaking Hui, scattered around the country. It is generally
accepted that all Muslims in China are Sunni of the Hanafi School, which is one of four
schools of Islamic law. It is considered the oldest and most liberal school and is
traditionally tolerant of differences within Muslim communities.
Mosques in
China retain
most traditional
Islamic features,
but the pagodas
and upturned
eaves are clear
signs of Chinese
architectural
influences.
6 Sayram Lake
Woman tending her sheep in a flower-covered meadow on the shores of Sayram Lake
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
XINJIANG 513
P Old Town
Areas to E and W of Id Kah Mosque.
On either side of Id Kah Square
is the sprawling old town area
with its bazaars. Split into
different sections, each
specializes in particular items
such as hats, musical
Farmers waiting to trade livestock at market, Kashgar instruments, carpets, and
hardware. The main attractions
( Sunday Market U Id Kah Mosque are the locally produced
Near Ayziret Lu. Open daily. Livestock Id Kah Square. Tel (0998) 282 3235. Kashgar kilims (carpets) and
market: Pamir Dadao. Open Sun. Open 9am–4pm Sat–Thu, 9am–1pm colorful Central Asian hats.
One of China’s most famous Fri (closed during services). & Part of the area is a network
weekly markets, the Sunday The largest mosque in Xinjiang, of alleyways, with local
Market lies in the northeast and one of the largest in China, teahouses and tiny restaurants
suburbs, just beyond the river. Id Kah Mosque (Aitiga’er selling flatbreads, noodles, lamb
Despite now being split into Qingzhen Si) was probably stews, and kabobs. A 10-ft (3-m)
two markets – the livestock founded in 1738, although it section of the old city walls can
market is held in the far north- possibly stands on the site of a be seen at the end
west of the town – thousands smaller mosque from the 15th of Seman Lu, east of the
of traders flood in from all century. Built in the Central mosque, and on Yunmulakxia
directions on horseback, in Asian style and altered over Lu, southwest of the mosque.
donkey-drawn carts, on
foot, and in every form of
motorized vehicle. In the
crush, stallholders sell
blankets, garish fabrics,
carpets, and fruit. However,
the main attraction is the
bustling livestock market.
Here horses are road-tested
at a gallop and small herds
of sheep are kept in order
while waiting to be sold.
It is a dusty, noisy, and
photogenic place, which
comes to life at dawn, and
lasts into the evening. The Id Kah Mosque, with Kashgar city and the Pamirs on the horizon
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
KASHGAR 515
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
920 miles (1,473 km) SW of
Ürümqi. * 350,000. n Old
Road Tours, Seman Hotel, (0998)
220 4012 ( Sun.
Transportation
k £ @ International bus
station, Long-Distance bus
station, CAAC (buses to airport).
Ruins of
Kashgar City Center Shipton’s Arch
Ha Noi
International
AW
Bus Station
5 Aba Khoja
AG
LU
Mausoleum
LU
Tu m
an LU
T
I
RE
J I E FA NG B E
He
ZI
AY
TA
TU
UH U Z LU
MA
N
LU
Sunday
LU
Market
X IA
LU
AN
SEM
AK
10 km (6 miles) east
Mosque TOWN
NM
NG LU
RENMIN DO
YU
LU
N XI Long-Distance
RENMI Renmin
Bus Station
Gongyuan Tomb Sayyid
TIAN NAN L U
10km (7 miles)
Tomb of Yusuf
0 km 1 Haji Hajup
KE ZI D
UW EI
LU
LU
0 mile 1
JIE
FA
NG
NA
N
. Geometric Decorations
Floral and geometric patterns
are common in Islamic art
because creating images of
animate objects was considered
to be in God’s realm (flowers were
considered inanimate).
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Just over 2 miles (4 km) NE of
Old Town center.
Mausoleum: Open 9:30am–8pm
daily. & Mosque: Open daily
(prayer day Fri). &
Transportation
@ from People’s Square. Also
possible to cycle or walk.
Minaret decoration
Each of the windows is screened
in a different geometric pattern.
The surrounds are adorned with
graceful arabesques while the
turret is topped with an inverted
lotus dome, scalloped edges,
and finial.
Truck passing a checkpoint on the Karakoram Highway, with the Pamir Mountains in the background
0 Karakoram cross into Pakistan. The highway knives for Uighur men, who
Highway took nearly 20 years to build. The carry them as traditional
journey along it is fairly arduous, accoutrements. Knives of all
and although traveling conditions shapes and sizes are sold in
SW from Kashgar into Pakistan. @ are improving, it is best to carry dozens of shops. While most of
warm clothing, food, and drink the knives produced are factory-
Once a spur of the Silk Road, the for the trip, which takes about made, traditional knife-making
Karakoram Highway (Zhongba four days. skills are still practiced by
Gonglu) was the only route over artisans in the center of town.
the Karakoram Mountains to and Using basic tools, the workers
from India. During the 1970s and q Yengisar at the Yengisar Country Small
1980s, a road was built across the Knife Factory produce exquisite
mountains following the old designs fashioned from fine
caravan route, to link China and 37 miles (60 km) S of Kashgar. @ woods, their handles inlaid with
Pakistan. The 808-mile (1,300-km) silver or horn. It is sometimes
route from Kashgar to Islamabad The small, sleepy town of possible to visit the factory, even
in Pakistan, which stretches across Yengisar, on the southern arm though a big board outside
the Pamir Mountains winding of the Silk Road, is renowned for bears a “No Entrance” sign. The
between peaks reaching its locally produced knives. For knives, which make attractive
26,250 ft (8,000 m), is one of awe- centuries, the town has been gifts, require special arrange-
inspiring beauty. Camels and yaks, manufacturing hand-crafted ments to be taken home.
tended by Tajik herdsmen, graze
in the highland pastures. Lakes
with mirror-like surfaces, such as
Lake Karakul, reflect the majesty
of the mountains, while the
remains of the occasional
caravanserai stand crumbling at
the side of the road.
The last town in China is
Tashkurgan, a bleak outpost with
the remains of an ancient fort.
Beyond it is the 15,750-ft (4,800-
m) high Khunjerab Pass, the
gateway to Pakistan. The Pakistan
border post lies just beyond at
Sost. Visitors should note that the
border is closed in winter, and
that visas are required – typically
issued in your home country – to Polished knives displayed at a stall in the Sunday Market, Yengisar
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
XINJIANG 519
Tibet at a Glance
Bordered on three sides by some of the world’s highest
mountain ranges – the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and
the Kunlun – Tibet has remained in relative isolation.
Sheltered first by its inaccessibility and then, in the age of
air travel, by Chinese occupation, the “Roof of the World”
is now open to foreign visitors. Its one major city, Lhasa,
retains its spiritual core: the Jokhang; the venerable
palace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala; and great
monasteries such as Drepung and Sera. Wherever you go,
Tibet offers panoramic vistas of high-altitude desert Thangka hanging on a door at the Jokhang
fringed by peaks, but the turquoise depths of Lake Temple, Lhasa
Namtso and the sky-scraping peaks of Mount Everest are
particularly worth visiting.
Muztag Feng
6973m
H o h
X i l S h a n
Gozha Co
Bairab Co Rola Co
Kashgar
Orba Co
Dogai
Lumajangdong Co
Coring
Rutog
Lugu
Gomo
Nganglong Kangri
6596m
Gar
Gegyai
Qagcaka XIZANG ZIZHIQU
Sên
ggê
Za Oma (TIBET)
Gar Xincun
ngbo
Gerze Zhaxi Co
Ga
rZ
Cozhe
a
ang
La Ngangla
ng Bogcan Siling Co
n Ringco g Zangbo Nyima
bo
qê
Za
n
ng
bo
g
d Lunggar Coqen
Tangra
Yumco
Gyaring Co
Barga i
La’nga
Co
s ê Ngangze
Zhari Namco Co Xainza
Burang
S h Kangmar
H Paryang a n
i
m Zhongba Lungsang
a Dogx
ung Zangbo
SHIGATSE
l a Saga
Ngamring
Sights at a Glance y a Lhatse Bainang
Towns & Cities s Tingri
SAKYA
Xixabangma Feng
1 Lhasa 8027m MONASTERY
Zhangmu
5 Gyantse
THE NEPAL EVEREST BASE CAMP
9 The Nepal Border BORDER Mt Everest
8848m Yadong
Areas of Natural Beauty Key
Yamdrok Lake, the largest lake in south Tibet, seen from the Kamba-la Pass
INTRODUCING TIBET 523
Potala Palace seen from the rooftop of the Jokhang, Lhasa’s holiest temple
0 km 150
0 miles 150
Golmud
Ta n Tanggula Shankou
g g u 6070m
l a Garze
S h a n
Amdo
Xagquka Baqên
Jomda
Dengqen
Baingoin Biru
Riwoqe Qamdo
Nagqu Gonjo
Banbar Me
NAMTSO ko
Soila ng
LAKE Lhorong Kangding
N ya i n q ê n t a n g l h a S h
(L
a
an
n
ca
e Markam
Jia
Namjagbarwa Feng
gd
Maizhokunggar Nyingchi 7756m u
Rawu a
n
SAMYE MONASTERY S
Mainling
h
Gyaca Nangxian
n
GYANTSE Yamdrok
Lake Hkakabo Razi
Lhunze 5885m
Kangmar
Kula Kangri
7554m Cona
Chomo Lhari Kangto
7102m
7314m
Getting There
Visitors mostly arrive mostly by air from Chengdu, the
capital of Sichuan, or Kathmandu, Nepal. An overland
route also connects Kathmandu and Lhasa, but while
individual travelers can leave, only tour groups may enter
this way. The bus route from Golmud in Qinghai has
been superseded by a high-speed railway line, and most
people take the train to Lhasa from Xining or Chengdu.
No independent travel is allowed for foreigners in Tibet.
The best option is to arrange a tour with an agency in
Lhasa, that will also handle permits.
524 TIBET
A PORTRAIT OF TIBET
Tibet’s reputation as a land of exotic mystery is due to centuries of geographic
isolation and a unique theocratic culture, based on Buddhism but influenced by
an older shamanistic faith called Bon. In 1950, China marched into Tibet and
annexed the country. Despite this upheaval, the traditional culture and values
of the Tibetans remain strong and continue to lure and enchant visitors.
Since the introduction of Buddhism in the the religion re-emerged later, the kingdom
7th century, the religion has permeated disintegrated into several principalities.
all aspects of Tibetan life, with monasteries In the 13th century, Tibet submitted to
acting as palaces, administrative centers, and the Mongols, and in 1247 the Mongols
schools. Ruled by priests, Tibet was feudal appointed the head lama of Sakya
in outlook and resisted all modernization. Monastery as Tibet’s ruler. Subsequently,
The country thus entered the 20th century Tsongkhapa (1357–1419) established the
without an army, lay education, or roads, Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect. His disciples
and with few technologies more became the Dalai Lamas, rulers of Tibet for
sophisticated than the prayer wheel. 500 years. Each new Dalai Lama is seen as a
Buddhism was introduced in Tibet reincarnation of the previous one. In
by Songsten Gampo (AD 608–50). A 1950, the Chinese took advantage of a
remarkable ruler who also unified the tenuous claim to the territory and invaded.
country, Songsten Gampo was converted In the uprising that followed in 1959, the
to Buddhism by his Chinese and Nepalese 14th Dalai Lama (b. 1935) fled to India, where
wives. The next religious king, Trisong he still heads the Tibetan Government-in-
Detsen (742–803), consolidated the Exile. By 1970, more than a million Tibetans
Buddhist faith, inviting the Indian teacher had died either directly at the hands of the
Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) to Tibet Chinese or through famine caused by
and founding Samye Monastery. A revival incompetent agricultural policies. Tibet’s
of the native Bon religion in the 8th century cultural heritage was razed, and thousands
led to Buddhist persecution, and though of monasteries were destroyed.
Tibetan Buddhism
The Mahayana school of Buddhism, which emphasizes
compassion and self-sacrifice, came to Tibet from India
in the 7th century. As it spread it took on many aspects
of the native, shamanistic Bon religion, incorporating Bon
rituals and deities. Like most Buddhists, Tibetans believe
in reincarnation – consecutive lives that are better or worse
Chortens hold the ashes of
depending on the karma, or merit, accrued in the previous spiritual teachers. The square
life. For many Tibetans, Buddhism suffuses daily life so base symbolizes Earth;
completely that the concept of a religion separate from the pinnacle crown
represents the
day to day occurences is completely foreign – there is
ethereal sphere.
no word for religion in Tibetan.
Jampelyang
(Manjushri)
Buddhist Deities
represents Jowo Sakyamuni:
knowledge and the historical Buddha
learning. He raises Jampa (the Maitreya):
a sword of the future Buddha
discriminating Dipamkara (Marmedze):
wisdom in his the past Buddha
right hand. Guru Rinpoche (Padmasam-
bhava): earthly manifestation
of Buddha who spread
Dharmapalas, defenders of the law, Buddhism throughout Tibet
fight against the enemies of Buddhism. Chenresig (Avalokitesvara):
Originally demons, they were tamed multi-armed bodhisattva of
by Guru Rinpoche, who bound them compassion
to the faith. Mahakala, one of the most Drolma (Tara): female aspect
common dharmapalas, is a wrathful of compassion
manifestation of Chenresig.
528 TIBET
Nomadic Life
The Chang Tang, a high plateau covering almost 70 percent
of Tibet, is home to about a quarter of Tibetans, many of
whom are nomads (or drokba), as the harsh, arid climate
precludes farming. Their existence has barely been touched
by modern life, and they still herd sheep, goats, and dzo (a
cross between a yak and a domesticated cow), as they have
for centuries. The animals are adapted to high altitude,
having larger lungs and more hemoglobin than lowland
animals. Despite being perfectly adapted to the climate, Dried yogurt is thought to
protect the skin from the sun,
the nomads’ way of life is under threat as the Chinese
but men don’t use it at all;
government pushes them to resettle in permanent camps. women smear it on with a
tuft of wool as a cosmetic.
TIBET
The enormous Tibetan plateau stretches across
an awesome 463,323 sq miles (1,200,000 sq km).
Its northern expanse is the Chang Tang, a vast,
uninhabited, high-altitude desert, dotted with
enormous brackish lakes. Nearly all the main sights
and cities, as well as half of Tibet’s population of 2.8 million
people, are concentrated in the less harsh southern region.
The fertile valley created by the Yarlung the Salween, and the Mekong. Eastern
Tsangpo river is bordered by the Tibet, also known as Chamdo, is one
Himalayas along Tibet’s southern of the few regions of Tibet where it
boundary. A mere 14 million years rains frequently – the mountains of the
old, the Himalayas are the youngest southeast are cloaked in mysterious,
mountains on earth, and also the highest, unexplored forests.
with over 70 peaks reaching elevations The wide, open spaces of northern and
of 23,000 ft (7,000 m) or over, including western Tibet are home to nomads who
Mount Everest, the world’s highest at live a hardy pastoral existence. These
29,029 ft (8,848 m). The spectacle of these wilderness areas are slowly shrinking as a
snow-clad peaks is perhaps what led to result of the encroaching industrial world.
Tibet being called the “Land of Snows.” In However, despite rapid development and
reality, at an average altitude of over more than 50 years of Chinese occupation,
13,000 ft (4,000 m), the thin air intensifies Tibet still clings strongly to its cultural
the sunshine making acclimatization heritage, most visible in the revitalized
and sunscreen essential. monasteries. Tourism, too, is a growing
Tibet’s eastern reaches are riddled industry as more areas are opening up,
with gorges carved out by three of allowing visitors tantalizing glimpses of a
China’s rivers – the mighty Yangzi, once-forbidden world.
Main prayer hall at Ganden Monastery, the first Gelugpa monastery in Tibet
Namtso Lake, a popular tourist destination
532 TIBET
0 yards 500
K
Nechung Monastery BEIJIN
G
G ZHO
NG
N
ROAD
LI
MINZU NAN ROAD
NO R BULINGKA
DA
BEI ROAD
I RO
DEJ
Norbulingka
O AD
A R
NO R B U L I N G K
Tibet
Museum
Main Bus
Lhasa Airport Station
93 km (60 miles) JINZHU ZHONG ROAD
Railway Station
4 km (2.5 miles)
Strikingly colored mural at the Lukhang Temple Kyi Chu
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 560,000. n Tibet CITS,
1 Minzu Bei Lu, (0891) 683 4938.
∑ tibetcits.com
Transportation
k Lhasa Gonggar Airport,
40 miles (65 km) from Lhasa.
£ Lhasa Station.
@ Main bus station, CAAC
(buses to airport).
AD Lukhang
Chi Ling Park
RO palace, the Kelsang Potrang,
A D Potala
Ramoche
I
BEI D U A N
RO
O
KA
ROAD
NG
Palhalupuk
DUOSEN’GE NAN RD
People’s
Park Summer Palace), just north of here,
YU TUO ROAD
BARKHOR
Jokhang which was built for the present
Temple
SQUARE Dalai Lama in 1954. Its audience
Ganden chamber holds murals depicting
Monastery
Ani events from Tibetan history, from
LINGKUO DONG ROAD
G
UN
M SH
T RO
R
K HO
B AR
. Jokhang Temple
The magnificent Jokhang, Tibet’s most
important religious structure, sits at the
heart of the Barkhor, and is the structure
around which the rest of Lhasa developed.
Key
Kora (holy route)
Prayer flags
Two poles laden with flags
stand outside the Jokhang.
Vertical flagpoles originated Incense burner
in the Amdo region (see Juniper bushes are
p483), and represent battle burnt in the four stone
flags that have become incense burners, or
signs of peace. sangkang, which mark
the route of the kora.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
LHASA 535
Tromzikhang
This 18th-century building once
housed government officials such
as the Ambans, representatives of
the Qing emperor. Now a housing
complex, all but the front was
destroyed in the 1980s.
The Jamkhang is a
15th-century building
housing a two-story
image of the Maitreya.
The Nangmano
complex is home
to 22 families.
G
JAN
BA
RK
H
O
. Meru Nyingba
R
Labrang Nyingba
was once home
O
Lama and
NG
Tsongkhapa
at different
HU
S times.
M
R TRO
0 meters
HO
50
0 yards 50
RK
BA
BARKHOR
Barkhor Street
This ancient street surrounds the
Jokhang Temple and is popular with
tourists and pilgrims, who can be seen
spinning prayer wheels and chanting
throughout the day.
536 TIBET
Jokhang Temple
The constant bustle, gaudy paraphernalia of worship,
flickering butter lamps, and wreaths of heady incense
make the Jokhang Temple one of Tibet’s most memorable
experiences. The Jokhang was founded in AD 639 to house an
image of the Buddha brought as dowry by the Nepali Princess
Bhrikuti on her marriage to King Songtsen Gampo. Its location
was chosen by another wife of the king, the Chinese consort
Princess Wencheng. She declared that a giant female demon
slumbered beneath the site and a temple must be built over
her heart to subdue her. After the king’s death, Wencheng’s Prostrating pilgrim
The Jokhang is Tibet’s
own dowry image of Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from the
most venerated site.
Ramoche (see p532) to the Jokhang, where it was thought Pilgrims bow and
to be safer from invading forces. pray on the
flagstones just
outside the
temple doors.
Courtyard
This open courtyard, or dukhang,
is the focus for ceremonies during
festivals. The long altar holding
hundreds of butter lamps marks
the entrance to the interior.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
The Barkhor, Lhasa. Tel (0891) 633
6858. Open 7–11:30am (pilgrims),
11:30am–5:30pm (tourists) daily.
Visit from left to right clockwise.
& _ Monlam, during the first
lunar month.
. Chapel of Chenresig
A large statue of Chenresig,
the bodhisattva of compassion,
dominates this room. The doors
and frames, crafted by Nepalis
in the 7th century, are
among the few remains
of the original temple.
Prayer Wheels
Pilgrims spin the
wheels on a route . Inner Sanctum
that surrounds the This houses some of the Jokhang’s most important statues,
inner chapel called including images of Guru Rinpoche, the Jampa, and a
the Nangkor, one of thousand-armed Chenresig. The chapels lining the walls
the three sacred are visited clockwise, and there’s a line for the holiest,
circuits of Lhasa. with monks at hand to enforce crowd discipline.
538 TIBET
Potala Palace
Built on Lhasa’s highest point, Marpo Ri, the Potala
Palace is the greatest monumental structure in Tibet.
Thirteen stories high, with over a thousand rooms, it
was once the residence of Tibet’s chief monk and
leader, the Dalai Lama, and therefore the center for
both spiritual and temporal power. These days, after
the present Dalai Lama’s escape to India in 1959, it is a
vast museum, serving as a reminder of Tibet’s rich and
devoutly religious culture, although major political . Golden Roofs
events and religious ceremonies are still held here. Seeming to float above the palace,
The first palace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631, the gilded roofs (actually copper)
and this was merged into the larger building that cover funerary chapels dedicated
to previous Dalai Lamas.
stands today. There are two main sections – the White
Palace, built in 1645 under orders from the 5th Dalai
Lama, and the Red Palace, completed in 1693.
KEY
6 Eastern Courtyard
. 3D Mandala
7 School of Religious Officials This intricate mandala
8 Defensive Eastern Bastion of a palace, covered in
precious metals and jewels,
9 Thangka Storehouse embodies aspects of the
path to enlightenment.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
LHASA 539
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Beijing Zhong Road, Lhasa. Tel
(0891) 683 4362. Open 8:30am–
5pm daily. & Book in advance.
Tickets are timed, so be sure not
to miss your spot. ^ interior. 8
Not suitable for those who find
stairs a problem, best tackled
once acclimatized to the altitude.
White Palace
The entrance to the
main building has a
triple stairway – the
middle set of stairs is
for the sole use of
the Dalai Lama.
Western Hall
Located on the first floor of the Red Palace,
the largest hall inside the Potala contains
the holy throne of the 6th Dalai Lama.
540 TIBET
Ganden Monastery
28 miles (45 km) E of Lhasa.
Open 9am–4pm daily. &
The farthest-flung of Lhasa’s
monasteries, Ganden is probably
the one most worth visiting,
with its scenic setting high on
the Gokpori Ridge. A guide and
a driver are required, but if travel
restrictions ease, traveling on a
local minibus full of excited
Monks engaged in group debates at Sera Monastery pilgrims is a more interesting
option. Minibuses depart from
costume, would go into a trance striking building in the complex the west side of the Barkhor.
before making his pronounce- is the Tsogchen located farthest The monastery was founded
ments, concluding the session up the hill. It features wall- in 1410 by Tsongkhapa, and
in a dead faint. Tibet’s last Oracle length thangkas, a throne its main building, the
fled to India in 1959, and now that was used by the 13th Serdung Lhakhang, has
the monastery has only a few Dalai Lama, and images as its centerpiece a
caretaker monks. Nechung’s of him and of Sakya huge gold and silver
decor is startling as the courtyard Yeshe, the founder of chorten (stupa or
outside is filled with gory Sera monastery. At funerary mound)
paintings and demon torturers. the top of the path with Tsongkhapa’s
Within the chapels, leering stands the open-air remains. However,
sculptures of skulls loom out of debating courtyard. the buildings are
Rock painting,
the gloom. The airy Audience The monks assemble not its main appeal.
Sera Monastery
Chamber on the second floor is here for debates and Its highlight is the
a welcome respite. Here, the their ritualized gestures – kora, which takes an hour to
Dalai Lama used to consult the clapping hands and stamping walk. The circuit offers fine views
Oracle. The roof-level chapel is when a point is made – are of the landscape and a chorten
dedicated to Padmasambhava, fascinating to watch. The Sera or two that pilgrims (and visitors
the Tantric Buddha, also known kora, or pilgrim circuit that if they wish) must hop around
as Guru Rinpoche. heads west from the main on one leg.
Sera Monastery
2 miles (4 km) N of Lhasa.
Open 9am–5pm daily. &
Founded in 1419 by disciples
of the Gelugpa order, Sera
Monastery was famous for its
warrior monks, the Dob-dob.
Once home to 5,000 monks,
today there are less than one-
tenth that number, although
the energetic renovation
suggests that this may improve.
Activity centers around its
three colleges, visited in a
clockwise circuit. Turn left from
the main path to reach the first
college, Sera Me, that was used
for instruction in Buddhist
basics. Sera Ngagpa, a little
farther up the hill, was for
Tantric studies, and Sera Je, next
to it, was for teaching visiting
monks. Each building has a
dimly lit main hall and chapels
toward the back that are full of
sculptures. The largest and most A domestic yak on the steep hills surrounding Ganden Monastery
544 TIBET
2 Samye Monastery
With its ordered design, wealth of religious treasures, and
stunning location, Samye makes a deep impression on visitors.
Tibet’s first monastery, Samye was founded in the 8th century
during Trisong Detsen’s reign, with the input of the great
Buddhist teacher Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinese scholars,
invited to Samye to translate Buddhist scriptures into Tibetan,
argued over the interpretation of doctrine, and so Trisong . Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel
Samye’s most revered chapel
Detsen held a public debate to decide which form of centers on an image of
Buddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indian school won Sakyamuni at age 38. He is
out and Chinese religious influence gradually waned. Today flanked by two protector deities
and ten bodhisattvas.
the monastery has a well-worn and eclectic feel, having been
influenced by numerous sects over the years.
. Chenresig Chapel
This chapel centers on a
stunning statue of
Chenresig, with an eye
painstakingly painted on
each of its thousand hands.
Main entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
546 TIBET
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p563 and p585
TIBET 547
housing the Kumbum and the local Buddhist sects to use; its
Pelkor Chode Monastery. Assembly Hall has two thrones,
The Kumbum, constructed one for the Dalai Lama and one
around 1440, is a six-story and for the Sakya Lama (see p550).
115-ft (35-m) high chorten, The main chapel has a statue
honeycombed with chapels. It of Sakyamuni, the Historical
is built in an architectural style Buddha, and some impressive
unique to Tibet and this is the wooden roof decorations. At
finest extant example. A clock- the top, the Shalyekhang
wise route leads up past chapels Chapel has some fine mandalas
full of statuary and decorated (see p540).
Highly decorated doorway to the main with 14th-century murals – On the way to Gyantse, it is
chapel, Kumbum, Gyantse kumbum means “a hundred worth taking a detour to see
thousand images.” On the sixth beautiful Yamdrok Lake, one
floor, painted pairs of eyes, of the four holy Tibetan lakes.
5 Gyantse signifying the all-seeing eyes of
Buddha, look out in each of the + Dzong
158 miles (255 km) SW of Lhasa. cardinal directions. The staircase Open 9:30am–6pm daily. &
@ must be organized by a travel in the eastern chapel leads into Kumbum and Pelkor Chode
agency. the chorten’s dome with views Monastery
from the top. Built 20 years after Open 9am–7pm daily.
An attractive, if dusty, small town, Kumbum, the Pelkor Chode (chapel is occasionally closed
Gyantse is the sixth largest town Monastery was designed for all noon–3pm). &
in Tibet, famous for its carpets and
usually visited en route to Nepal
(see p551). Often called “Heroic
City,” it was originally capital of
a 14th-century kingdom, and
the remnants of its old Dzong,
or fort, watch over the town.
Heavily bombarded during the
British invasion in 1904, when
it was captured at great loss of
life to the Tibetans, it is today a
dramatic ruin with a small
museum. Here, Chinese
propaganda describes the
“heroic battle fought to defend
the Chinese motherland,”
although at that time China had
no authority over Tibet. The
Dzong offers good views from
its roof. About 650 ft (200 m)
northwest is a compound Kumbum, Gyantse, a three-dimensional mandala
548 TIBET
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
172 miles (278 km) W of Lhasa.
* 120,000. @ Arrange travel to
Shigatse through a travel agency
in Lhasa. _ Tashilunpo: 2nd
week of 5th lunar month.
Minibus
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OF THE PANCHEN
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GYANTSE
Key to Symbols see back flap
550 TIBET
Everest Base Camp, with magnificent views of the world’s highest mountain
Makalu, and Gyachung. Most densely wooded; the change town has a gaudy vibrance.
people try to arrive at this pass of scenery is startling after the Border formalities to get
either to see the sun rise or set desert landscape of the high, into Nepal are fairly cursory.
over the Himalayas. arid plateau. It is only another The Nepalese immigration
The rarefied air at this altitude 20 miles (33 km) to the border post, 6 miles (10 km) farther
(17,000 ft/5,150 m) makes any town of Zhangmu, which is down at Kodari, will issue a
strenuous activity impossible, relatively low and oxygen-rich single-entry visa, though
however, so unless visitors are at 7,200 ft (2,200 m). Although visitors have to pay in US
properly acclimatized, it is best to much of Zhangmu consists of dollars and provide a
go back to the Friendship slightly dilapidated shacks, passport photo. From here,
Highway and carry on to the town perched above one another on it is a 4-hour trip
of Shegar to spend the night. the mountainside, this frontier to Kathmandu.
WHERE TO STAY
An abundance of accommodation options are but if you have not done so, do not panic,
available in China for most of the year. Four- unless you are traveling during one of the high
and five-star hotels, increasingly run by either seasons – the first week of May and October,
major international chains or expanding and Chinese New Year (Spring Festival).
Chinese hotel companies, are plentiful in Although you may want to book some of your
major cities and tourist destinations. In other stay (the first few nights, for example, to ease
cities and towns, there are many mid-range your arrival), it is perfectly feasible to turn up
hotels and budget options to choose from. at your hotel of choice, bargain cheerfully, and
Ideally, rooms should be booked in advance, book yourself a room at a sizable discount.
Costs
Harbor views from Upper House in Hong Kong (see p561) The prices quoted by major
international hotels do not
Choosing a Hotel their rates down drastically, include service charges or local
The newest hotels are usually especially if the room in question bed taxes, although the latter
the best, as most owners seem would otherwise go empty. are rarely levied. Many Chinese-
to resist carrying out repairs Discounts of 10 to 20 percent run upper-end hotels have
unless they are absolutely are standard, 30 to 40 percent begun to levy service charges of
necessary. New hotels are very common, and 50 percent between 5 and 15 percent.
constantly springing up in not unusual. Try for larger Foreign visitors should check
various parts of the country in discounts, especially in locations their bills carefully before paying.
the hope of benefiting from the with seasonal demand. Note that minibar contents are
growth in domestic tourism. Booking online in advance via as overpriced in China as
Some are one-off operations sites such as ctrip.com, elong. anywhere else. Costs for phone
started by private businesses, com, or hostelworld.com is calls from even modest hotels
but most belong to Chinese another good way to obtain are usually computer-monitored,
chains building pan-China a bargain. This is also true of and a service charge will be
hotel portfolios. Hotels run most foreign-run hotels. added on top of the actual cost
by the police, banks, tobacco The introduction of double of the call. Most Chinese-run
companies, post offices, and beds of various sizes in Chinese- and many foreign-owned hotels
other businesses are aspiring run hotels (rather than the in China offer free Wi-Fi. Check
to compete with long-standing standard twin single beds) has before booking, and if the hotel
establishments run by local led to some confusion. Older you choose charges for Internet
governments. Any hotel with hotels and a few newer ones use, pick somewhere down the
a decent website or the word do indeed have regular “single street that doesn’t.
“business“ in the title is likely
to be relatively new and offer
good services.
Booking a Hotel
In China, the real price of a hotel
room is what the customer is
willing to pay. Locals always
ask for a discount, and you
should too. The days of official
surcharges for non-Chinese
customers are long gone.
Although many hotels still
quote higher prices to foreign
visitors, they are amenable to
hard bargaining and will bring Traditionally designed courtyard at The Linden Centre in Dali (see p562)
556 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Seasonal Demand
While rooms are readily
available in China for most of
the year, the busiest travel periods
are during the week-long national
holidays, principally around the
Chinese New Year (January or
February), May 1 (Labor Day),
and October 1 (National Day).
Unlike the West, very few people
in China have discretionary
holidays, so almost everyone in
the country seems to be traveling
at the same time. This is particu-
larly true of the Chinese New Richly furnished lobby at the Cachet Boutique hotel in Shanghai
Year (also known as the Spring
Festival), when accommodation General Observations Though it is simpler to arrange
is almost impossible to find. and Precautions transport services through your
The exact dates are not fixed Check-out time is usually noon, hotel, be aware that this might
far in advance, but as soon as but visitors can pay half the cost more than it would if you
they are declared transport and nightly rate to keep the room found a taxi on your own. It can
accommodation costs shoot up. until 6pm. Chinese regulations be better to simply walk onto
Spring and fall, with their require all non-residents to be the street and flag down a
milder temperatures and lower out of hotel rooms by 11pm, but passing vehicle, though taxis
humidity, are more popular this is widely ignored. Although hovering near the doors of
seasons for traveling than foreign-exchange facilities are hotels in popular tourist
summer or winter, which are usually open seven days a week destinations should be
both extreme. In summer, some at most of the better hotels, approached with caution.
of the cooler destinations within these facilities can be used When surveying hotels,
reasonable reach of large cities only by registered guests. travelers must remember
– such as the island of Putuo Many hotels, including some that the pictures they see
Shan, served by short flights establishments with foreign on brochures and websites
and ferries from Shanghai – can management, advertise facilities almost always date to the time
be very crowded and expensive such as nightclubs, hair and of opening, and are unlikely to
during weekends, but very beauty salons, and karaoke represent the current condition
cheap during the week. Other bars, but these are often fronts of the rooms. You should also
events that affect transport for prostitution. Be wary of not be swayed by the promise
costs and room availability are unexpected telephone calls of saunas, fitness centers,
the festivals of ethnic minorities, to your room offering anmo, swimming pools, or Jacuzzis,
particularly in the southwest, or massage. It is best to especially in Chinese-run
and trade events such as the disconnect your phone if you hotels in remote areas, as the
biannual fair in Guangzhou. wish to avoid being solicited. presence of these in brochures
does not indicate that they
are still working or fit for use.
Most importantly, the rates
mentioned are not fixed.
Facilities for Children
and the Disabled
Children are welcome
everywhere in China, although
special facilities for them in
hotels are rare. Most hotels
allow children under 12 years
to stay with their parents free
of charge. Most hotels will
also add an extra bed for an
older child for a nominal (and
usually negotiable) fee. Groups
of four, including two children
over 12, can sometimes share
a room, though parents may
be required to pay for two
The imposing facade of Shangri-La Hotel in Xian (see p559) rooms. However, many older,
W H E R E TO S TAY 557
Chinese-run hotels have three- service charge on top of your options for visitors to choose
and four-bed rooms that are bill in any case. Some Chinese from, from Art Deco gems in
ideal for families. hotels have started to add Shanghai to one of China’s first
In general, China is not an these charges as well. hotels to cater to foreigners in
easy destination for the disabled. Harbin. Those who enjoy the
Only the newest and best inter- flexibility of a self-catered stay
national hotels make any serious Recommended Hotels should look for properties in
effort to provide wheelchair The hotels on pages 558–63 the apartment category. China
access or fully adapted rooms. cover a huge variety of accom- has many budget options
Most places have standard modation options from simple where rooms are neat and clean
suites with inconveniently hostels and budget hotels to and there are also numerous
placed light switches, although historic establishments and hostels where guests can stay in
some have wider bathroom luxury retreats. They are listed communal dormitories. Hotels
doors to allow wheelchairs. by price within each area. Luxury that fall under the Business
However, most hotels have hotels number among the most category feature amenities from
elevators, so booking a ground- upscale options in town, with Wi-Fi and business centers to
floor room is not necessary. high standards of rooms and meeting rooms with audio and
service par for the course. visual technology.
China’s boutique hotel Finally, hotels featured as DK
Tipping industry is booming of late, Choice are special establishments
As tipping is not very common and this category can include that are highly recommended
in China, hotel staff don’t usually everything from slick and trendy for an exceptional quality,
expect to be tipped. The operations in a city, to rural be it a great spa, beautifully
international hotels will be homestays with just a few designed rooms, or an
charging you a 5 to 15 percent rooms. There are many historic ecologically sustainable outlook.
Classy interiors at the luxurious Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund hotel in Shanghai (see p560)
DIRECTORY
Hotel Chains Kempinski Shangri-La Home Inns and
Tel 1-800 426 3135 (US). Tel 1-866 565 5050 (US). Motel 168
Accor
Tel 020 7198 8405 (UK). Tel 0800 028 3337 (UK). Tel 400 820 3333.
Tel 1-800 221 4542 (US).
∑ kempinski.com ∑ shangri-la.com ∑ homeinns.com
Tel 0871 663 0624 (UK).
∑ accorhotels.com Starwood Jinjiang Inn
Marriott
Hilton (Sheraton, W, Westin) Tel 400 820 9999.
Tel 1-888 236 2427 (US).
Tel 1-800 445 8667 (US). Tel 1-800 80 1855 (US). ∑ jinjianginns.com
Tel 0800 1927 1927 (UK).
Tel 08705 909 090 (UK). Tel 020 3564 6335 (UK).
∑ marriott.com Booking a Hotel
∑ hilton.com ∑ starwood.com
Ritz-Carlton Useful websites:
Hyatt Budget Hotels
Tel 1-800 233 1234 (US). Tel 1-800 542 8680 (US). ∑ ctrip.com
Tel 0845 888 1234 (UK). Tel 0800 234 000 (UK). Green Tree Inns ∑ elong.com
∑ hyatt.com ∑ ritzcarlton.com ∑ 998.com ∑ hostelworld.com
558 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
China World Summit Wing ¥¥¥ Price Guide
Beijing Luxury Map 4 F1 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
1 Jianguomenwai Ave, Chaoyang
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Downtown Backpackers ¥ district
Hostel Map 2 D3 Tel (010) 6505 2299 ¥ under ¥400
∑ shangri-la.com ¥¥ ¥400 to ¥1,000
85 Nanluoguxiang, Chaoyang district
¥¥¥ over ¥1,000
Tel (010) 8400 2429 Rooms high up in the China
∑ backpackingchina.com World Trade Center have ultra-
Cheerful place close to the city’s modern interiors and great views.
most funky hutong (alleyway). Hebei, Tianjin
Great for visitors on a tight budget. Hotel de Cour SL ¥¥¥ & Shanxi
Boutique Map 2 E5
YoYo Hotel ¥ 70 Yanyue Hutong, Dongcheng district BEIDAIHE: Beidaihe Hotel ¥
Budget Tel (010) 6523 9598 Rooms with a view
10F Middle Section of Sanlitun, ∑ hotelcotecourbj.com 316 Lianfeng Rd
Chaoyang district Elegant rooms combine modern Tel (0335) 4680 555
Tel (010) 6417 3388 amenities with antique surrounds. A large hotel with great ocean
∑ yoyohotel.cn views. There are few English-
Located in one of the city’s popular Hotel Eclat ¥¥¥ speakers here, so be prepared to
nightspots, this boutique hotel Luxury use a phrase book.
offers stylish, good-value rooms. 9 Dongdaqiao Jie, Chaoyang district
Tel (010) 8561 2888 CHENGDE: Mountain
∑ eclathotels.com/beijing Villa Hotel ¥
DK Choice This slightly offbeat luxury hotel Budget
Duge Courtyard Boutique boasts a superb art collection. 11 Lizhengmen
Hotel ¥¥ Tel (0314) 209 5511
Luxury Map 2 D3 The Opposite House ¥¥¥ Clean, basic rooms in a well-
26 Qianyuanensi Hutong, Boutique known hotel at a great location,
Nanluoguxiang, 1 Taikoo Li Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang opposite the main entrance to
Dongcheng district district the Mountain Resort.
Tel (010) 6445 7463 Tel (010) 6417 6688
∑ dugecourtyard.com ∑ theoppositehouse.com DATONG: Garden Hotel ¥
This luxurious hideaway was Arty hotel, club, and restaurant Business
part-created by jeweler and with an impressive green 59 Danan St
interior designer Jehanne de glass exterior. Tel (0352) 5865 888
Biolley – no surprise given the ∑ datonghotels.com
hotel‘s gem-like color scheme. Park Hyatt ¥¥¥ Well located and geared for
Each one of the six rooms is Luxury foreigners, this hotel wins
unique, and the burnished-gold 2 Jianguomenwai St, Chaoyang district plaudits for service. It also
decorated Imperial Suite will Tel (010) 8567 1234 runs a number of tours to
make guests feel like royalty. ∑ beijing.park.hyatt.com nearby attractions.
Rooms at this 63-story hotel boast
marble baths. Superlative service. TAIYUAN: Chateau Star
The Red Capital Residence ¥¥ River Taiyuan ¥¥
Boutique Map 2 E4 The Peninsula Beijing ¥¥¥ Luxury
9 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng district Luxury Map 2 E5 2 Xinghe West Rd
Tel (010) 8403 5308 8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing Tel (0351) 7698 866
∑ redcapitalresidencebeijing.com Tel (010) 8516 2888 ∑ chateaustarriver.com
An exotic five-room guesthouse ∑ beijing.peninsula.com Beautiful hotel with a pool. Non-
decked with antique furniture and Beijing‘s grand dame of style and Chinese speakers may struggle to
Communist Party memorabilia. service, with a highly rated spa. make themselves understood.
The Schoolhouse ¥¥
Boutique
12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou district
Tel (010) 6162 6506
∑ theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com
Stay at the eco-resort or hire a
well-appointed village home with
amazing views of the Great Wall.
NANJING: InterContinental
Nanjing ¥¥¥ DK Choice
Luxury HANGZHOU: Amanfayun ¥¥¥
1 Zhongyang Lu Luxury
Tel (025) 8353 8888 22 Fayun Jie, Xi Hu Jie
∑ ichotelsgroup.com Tel (0571) 8732 9999
This hotel towers over the city ∑ amanresorts.com
center. Two great restaurants. Amanfayun is a quiet, ultra-
expensive resort for the rich
SUZHOU: Hotel Soul Suzhou ¥¥ and famous, hidden in a
Boutique picturesque valley amid the
27–33 Qiaosikong Xiang verdant natural beauty of
Tel (0512) 6777 0777 the tea gardens.
∑ hotelsoul.com.cn/en
Eye-catching trendy decor and a
Suzhou-style rooftop garden. NANCHANG: Grand Skylight
International Hotel Nanchang ¥
Business
Sophisticated interiors of the deluxe DK Choice 1 Ganjiangbei Lu
Amanfayun in Hangzhou SUZHOU: Pinjiangfu Tel (0791) 8206 6666
Suzhou Hotel ¥¥ ∑ grandskylight-intl.com
Les Suites Orient ¥¥¥ Boutique A quiet hotel with helpful staff,
Boutique 60 Bai Ta Dong Lu business facilities, and good food.
1 Jinling Dong Lu Tel (0512) 6770 6688
Tel (021) 6320 0088 ∑ pingjiangpalace.com WENZHOU: Shangri-La
∑ lessuitesorient.com This charming retreat set in a Wenzhou ¥¥
This smart hotel fuses Art Deco traditional courtyard is Luxury
design with traditional Oriental surrounded by centuries-old 1 Xiangyuan Lu
style. Iconic views over the river. Suzhou gardens. Rooms are Tel (0577) 8998 8888
lovingly furnished with smart, ∑ shangri-la.com/wenzhou/
Waldorf Astoria Shanghai contemporary interiors. shangrila
on the Bund ¥¥¥ The city’s best hotel, situated in a
Luxury skyscraper and renowned for its
2 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Lu SUZHOU: Shangri-La excellent service levels. Free Wi-Fi.
Tel (021) 6322 9988 Hotel Suzhou ¥¥¥
∑ waldorfastoria3.hilton.com Luxury
This multi-award-winning hotel 168 Tayuan Lu
offers flawless service and vistas Tel (0512) 6808 0168 Hunan & Hubei
across the skyline. ∑ shangri-la.com/suzhou/shangrila
Impeccable service and huge, CHANGSHA: Dolton Hotel ¥¥
Waterhouse at South Bund ¥¥¥ well-appointed rooms. Business
Historic 159 Shaoshan Bei Lu
3 Maojiayuan Rd, Huangpu TUNXI: Huangshan Tel (0731) 8416 8888
district Tunxi Lodge ¥¥ ∑ doltonhotel.com
Tel (021) 6080 2988 Boutique This hotel features a business
∑ waterhouseshanghai.com 15 & 17 Lao Jie center plus an on-site health club.
A 1930s warehouse converted Tel (0559) 258 0388
into a swanky boutique hotel ∑ the-silk-road.com
with designer furniture. Traditionally styled rooms on Old DK Choice
Street, close to shops and cafés. CHANGSHA: Wyndham
The Westin Bund Center ¥¥¥ Grand Plaza Royale
Luxury Furongguo Changsha ¥¥¥
88 Henan Zhong Lu, Huangpu Luxury
district Zhejiang & Jiangxi 106 Furong Zhong Lu
Tel (021) 6335 1888 Tel (0731) 8868 8888
∑ westin.com/shanghai HANGZHOU: West Lake ∑ wyndham.com
Attractive hotel with a distinctive Youth Hostel ¥ Though a little way out of town,
roof, Vegas-style light effects, Hostel this lavish hotel lives up to its
and rooms with floor-to-ceiling 62–3 Nan Shan Lu five-star rating. The lobby is
windows – most with views. Tel (0571) 8702 7027 truly majestic and the rooms
∑ westlakehostel.com well appointed. Some guests
Located on the banks of the lake, say the breakfast buffet is the
near Leifeng Pagoda. Bright and best in China.
Jiangsu & Anhui spacious dorms and rooms.
NANJING: Orange Hotel ¥ HANGZHOU: Xihu State WUHAN: Jinjiang Inn Wuhan ¥
Budget Guesthouse ¥¥ Budget
224 Zhong Lu Boutique Jiangtan Pedestrian St,
Tel (025) 8698 8971 18 Yang Gong Causeway 2 Dongting Lu
∑ orangehotel.com.cn Tel (0571) 8797 9889 Tel (027) 8277 6600
Great-value accommodation in ∑ xihustateguest.hotel.com.tw/eng ∑ jinjiang.com
the city center, within walking A guesthouse with efficient staff, Excellent-value hotel in a superb
distance of many attractions. stunning grounds, and lake views. location. Helpful staff, too.
Key to Price Guide see p 558
W H E R E TO S TAY 561
WUHAN: Pathfinder
DK Choice
International Youth Hostel ¥ Hong Kong & Macau
Hostel XIAMEN: Seaview Resort ¥¥
368 Zhongshan Lu Luxury HONG KONG: Hullet House ¥¥¥
Tel (027) 8884 4092 3999 Huandao Nan Lu Historic Map 1 A3
∑ yhachina.com Tel (0592) 502 3333 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Hip hostel with a pleasant ∑ xmseaview.com Tel (0852) 3988 0000
terrace and mixed dorms. Top-class resort located just ∑ hulletthouse.com
Chinese-style bathrooms. outside the city center. Rooms Housed in a stunning colonial
come with baths the size of hot building, this hotel features
WUHAN: Marco Polo tubs, and many have private uniquely decorated suites, all
Hotel Wuhan ¥¥¥ pools or gardens. Dine at one with private balconies.
Business of the lovely restaurants dotted
159 Yanjiang Dajie around the stunning gardens. HONG KONG: J Plus
Tel (027) 8277 8888 Attentive staff. Book ahead. Boutique Hotel ¥¥¥
∑ marcopolohotels.com Boutique
This riverfront property with 1–5 Irving St, Causeway Bay
large, airy rooms is a good Tel (0852) 3196 9000
choice for corporate travelers. ∑ jplushongkong.com
Guangdong & Designed by Philippe Starck, with
Hainan quirky rooms. Rates include
breakfast and evening cocktails.
Fujian GUANGZHOU: Journey House
Youth Hostel ¥
FUZHOU: Best Western Hostel DK Choice
Fuzhou Fortune Hotel ¥¥ 27F Building 1 Jiayiyuan, HONG KONG: Upper
Business 435 Tianhe Bei Lu House ¥¥¥
220 Hualin Lu Tel (020) 3880 4573 Boutique Map 3 D4
Tel (0591) 8819 9999 Clean, good-value hostel with Pacific Place, 88 Queensway
∑ bestwestern.com kitchen. Shared bathrooms. Tel (0852) 2918 1838
A well-appointed hotel offering ∑ upperhouse.com
spacious rooms with free Wi-Fi. GUANGZHOU: The Ritz-Carlton A stylish haven from one of Asia‘s
Complimentary breakfast. Guangzhou ¥¥¥ trendiest designers, Andre Fu.
Luxury Enjoy fabulous city views from
FUZHOU: Howard Johnson 3 Xing'an Lu, Pearl River New City the luxurious apartment-like
Riverfront Plaza Fuzhou ¥¥ Tel (020) 3813 6688 studios, which come with
Business ∑ ritzcarlton.com espresso machines and iPods.
6 Jiangbin Dong Dajie Plush opulence and impeccable
Tel (0591) 8862 9999 service; home to one of the city’s
∑ hojochina.com top restaurants, Lai Heen. HONG KONG: W Hong Kong ¥¥¥
Business-oriented hotel with Luxury Map 1 A3
large, well-maintained rooms. 1 Austin Rd West, Kowloon
Facilities include pool, spa, DK Choice Tel (0852) 3717 2222
and gym. HAINAN: Banyan ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Tree Sanya ¥¥¥ The W has the island’s best pool.
FUZHOU: Shangri-La Hotel ¥¥ Luxury Stylish rooms with superb views.
Luxury Luhuitou Bay, 6 Luling Lu
9 Xinquan Nan Lu Tel (0852) 8860 9988 MACAU: Pousada de Mong-Ha ¥¥
Tel (0591) 8798 8888 ∑ banyantree.com Boutique
∑ shangri-la.com Forty-nine pool villas are Colina de Mong-Ha
A comfortable hotel with an old- scattered around a sculpted Tel (0853) 2851 5222
fashioned feel and one of the tropical lagoon on Hainan ∑ ift.edu.mo
best Korean restaurants in town. Island. The hotel offers very Rooms are decorated in traditional
high standards of service. Portugeuese style at this quiet inn.
XIAMEN: Remy’s
Garden Hotel ¥
Boutique SHENZHEN: Zen Guest House ¥
65 Kangtai Lu, Gulangyu Island Guesthouse
Tel (0592) 5944 5994 75 Dawei Cun, Dongchong
Unusual, snug place offering one- Tel (0755) 3070 7874
and two-bedroom apartments, ∑ zen-guesthouse.com
some with terraces, on Gulangyu Located close to the beach.
Island. Book in advance. Simple rooms and a rooftop patio.
Street Food
Types of Restaurant As China smartened up for
Whether you are looking to eat in the splendor of an imperial the Beijing Olympics and the
pavilion in Beijing, a chic Shanghai café, or a busy Sichuan Shanghai Expo, street vendors
teahouse, you will find a restaurant boom taking place in were sometimes forced to
play hide-and-seek with the
China. Freed from state control, entrepreneurs are thinking
authorities. Yet their portable
up tempting new ways to indulge in the country’s favorite stalls form a vital part of the
pastime. You never have to walk far to find restaurants in everyday life of China, selling
China and when you do, do not let first appearances put you cheap and popular foods
off – in contrast to the delicacy of the food, many gourmet such as breakfasts of dough
restaurants boast simple decor and harsh lighting. Look sticks (youtiao) and beancurd
(doujiang), or snacks like
instead for happy crowds of diners and a different concept scallion pancakes (jianbing),
of “atmosphere.” In Chinese eyes, the more lively and noisy sweet potatoes (fanshu)
(renao) a restaurant is, the better. roasted in old oil drums,
deep-fried beancurd cubes
(zhadoufu), and local fruits.
A reliable way to locate
delicious street food is to
stroll through a night market
(yeshi), a culinary and visual
feast where clouds of steam
escape from bamboo steamers
and the sky glows red from the
flames of oil drum stoves. The
sizzle of cooking and clamor of
vendors shouting for business
should stir your appetite, and
if deep-fried scorpions or
Typical restaurant – busy and noisy with a utilitarian decor cicadas on skewers prove too
exotic, be assured that plenty
Open All Hours Hotel Food of other foods will take your
Early to bed, early to rise If you are tired and hungry, and fancy. If the food is hot and
was the pattern of Chinese staying at one of China’s more freshly cooked for you, hygiene
lives until the 1990s, leaving expensive hotels, then room problems are rare. The market
some foreign visitors caught service can provide comfort off Wangfujing Dajie (see p100),
out when planning mealtimes. with imitations of Western food. in Beijing, is the most famous,
While Chinese stomachs still But try to make it downstairs, but track down night markets
demand food earlier than their as most hotels offer a range of wherever you go, to enjoy the
Western counterparts, social cuisines within the premises. local delicacies and specialties.
and professional hours are In the main cities,
diversifying. You can breakfast some of the best
on the street by 6am, but all restaurants are located
hotels should serve breakfast in hotels, and you can
until 10am or later. Lunch is sample some excellent
typically from 11:30am until upscale Chinese
2:30pm, after which some cuisine. Contrary
restaurants shut until the to opinion, hotel
evening shift starts around restaurants do
5pm. In the evening, closing not always serve
times can be very late, while overpriced, deliberately
some places never shut. bland Chinese food to
Booking is rare except for the appease foreign
most popular and high-end palates. However, home
establishments. Usually you to one of the world’s
can simply turn up; if the top cuisines, China has
restaurant is full, you may have a lot to offer. The more
to wait until a table comes free intrepid diner who
or have a drink at the bar. makes a few forays out-
Sometimes the owner will come side the comfort of
to your rescue by setting up a four-star hotel restaur-
makeshift table in the corner, ants will be sure to reap Dunhuang night market – food stalls for shoppers
or even out in the backyard. handsome dividends. buying spices, silks, and carpets
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 567
Invited to Dinner
A formal meal often takes place
How to Hold Chopsticks
in a private room and usually 1) Place the first chopstick in the crook
begins with a toast. The host of your thumb and forefinger. Support
serves his guest with the it with the little and ring fingers,
choicest morsels, and then and keep it there with the
everyone is permitted to help base of the thumb.
themselves. Serving chopsticks 2) Hold the second
or spoons may be provided; if chopstick like a
not, simply use your own pair. pencil, between
middle and index Third finger acting Thumb and first
Confucius said that it was as a rest for the finger controlling
fingers, anchored
uncivilized to have knives on lower stick the top stick
by the pad of your
the table, but if you are really thumb. 3) When
struggling, most restaurants picking up food, keep the lower stick stationary and the tips even.
will readily provide you with As the index finger moves up and down, only the upper stick
knives and forks. should move, using the thumb as an axis.
The host almost always orders
more dishes than necessary.
While it is polite to try every- suck greasy fingers, or use them before your host, who will rise
thing, don’t feel it is necessary to pick bones out of your and indicate that the dinner has
to finish it all. mouth – spit bones or shell ended and ask if you’ve had
onto the table, into the saucer enough. The answer is “yes.”
that was under your bowl, The person who invited you
Good Neighbors or into a napkin. usually shoulders the full weight
It is courteous Toothpicks are of the bill, so accept graciously.
to keep your ubiquitous, but Offering to pay is fine, even
neighbors’ tea do cover the polite; insisting too hard
cups filled. To action with suggests that you doubt
thank an attentive your free the host’s ability to pay.
neighbor, tap your hand. And The capitalist habit of tipping
first two fingers Crabs – difficult to eat don’t be shy about was wiped out after Mao’s
together on the with chopsticks shouting for Communist Party took over.
table. This tradition attention. Eating Politically acceptable today, it
dates back to the Qing Emperor alone is very strange to the is still rare, as is “going Dutch.”
Qianlong, who liked to tour the Chinese way of thinking. Eating Prices are fixed and written
country in disguise. Once, at a in a group – sharing the dishes down in most restaurants, and
teahouse, he took his turn to and the experience – greatly on bills, although there is the
pour the tea. His companions, increases the enjoyment. occasional story of restaurants
who should have been pressing overcharging foreigners.
their foreheads to the floor, There is no service charge
maintained his disguise by The End of the Meal except in the more upmarket
tapping their fingers in a mini- A platter of fresh fruit and and expensive restaurants, which
kowtow. If you don’t want your steaming hot towels signal are also the only places likely to
cup refilled, don’t empty it. the end of the meal is coming. accept international credit cards.
Just as you should await the
start of a meal, do not stand up
Dos and Don’ts The Business of Banquets
The Chinese are fairly relaxed The business banquet is the
about table manners. Slurping apex of the Chinese dining
shows appreciation, enables experience, and almost all
better appreciation of flavor, and significant deals are clinched at
sucks in air to prevent burning the banquet table. In addition to
the mouth. Holding your bowl the above, further rules apply:
up to your mouth, to shovel rice arrive 15 minutes early; if you are
in, is another practical solution. applauded as you come into the
You may happily reach across room, applaud back; reply to the
your neighbors, but do not welcome toast with your own
spear food with your chopsticks, short speech and toast; avoid
and do not stand them upright sensitive subjects; show respect
in a bowl of rice either, as it looks to your elders and superiors by
like an offering to the dead. ensuring that the rim of your
If you have finished with the glass is lower than theirs when
chopsticks lay them flat on the An old lady demonstrates the perfect clinking glasses, and drain your
table or on a rest. You shouldn’t noodle technique drink in one swift movement.
570 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
What to Drink
Tea, of course is the most popular drink in China. There are
countless arguments for drinking the infusion of the bush
Camellia sinensis, and just as many legends about its origin
(see p299). While tea is the most popular drink, there is a wide
range of others for the visitor. Beer is popular with meals but
wine is also drunk in many upmarket restaurants. Chinese
spirits can range from the extremely pleasant to the almost
dangerous. Likewise, approach “health tonics” like snake wine
with caution – as if the reptilian “sediment” in the bottle isn’t Tea plantation in the Fujian hills,
enough, they can be fiercely alcoholic. south China
Coffee
As café Tea and Coffee Drink
culture Those who want a
enters China, coffee fashionable coffee drink,
drinking is becoming but cannot do without their
fashionable among the daily shot of tea, can try this
middle classes. A Starbucks blend of tea and coffee.
can be found in practically
every major city in China.
Soft Drinks
Even as a cold drink, tea is dominant; iced
tea is very popular, especially with the young.
Besides the usual array of fruit juices, there is
pomegranate juice in Xinjiang, hawthorn juice
in Beijing, and lychee and sugar cane juice
down south. As well as the global drink brands,
there are local challengers like Tianfu Cola, and
the energy drink Jianlibao, made with honey.
As China overcomes its dairy aversion, milk and
yogurt drinks multiply, as well as soyabean Sugar cane
(doujiang) and Hainan’s famous coconut milk. juice Iced green tea Coconut milk drink
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 571
Beer
Europeans first introduced beer to
China in the early 20th century; in
the 21st, China has taken over
as the world’s biggest brewer,
so you are never far from a very
acceptable light lager, and even
a darker brew. Each city usually
has its own local brewery.
Wine
Although grape seeds traveled the
Silk Road, China has historically
preferred grain alcohol. Now the
Tsingtao beer Yanjing beer quality is rapidly improving, and red
wine is almost exclusively consumed
– it is considered good for the
heart, and a lucky color too. Great Wall Dragon Seal
Spirits
For millennia the Chinese have been distilling
grains into baijiu or “white spirits” ranging from
strong to deadly. They are classified into three
Rice Wine
types: the qingxiang, or light bouquet, group Despite being called “wine,” some care is required
includes Fenjiu from Shanxi; Guizhou’s famous as this can vary in strength from a mild 15–16%
Maotai is a classic jiangxiang, soy bouquet; alcohol, to the double- or triple-fermented wines
while nongxiang, strong bouquet, is at up to 38% ABV. Good rice wine is best drunk
championed by Sichuan giant Wuliangye. warm and goes well with cold starters.
Drinking Culture
Teahouses are enjoying a bit of a revival in China,
as appreciation of tea culture recovers after years of
proletarian austerity. While cha (tea) stimulates quiet
contemplation, jiu (alcohol) lubricates noisy celebrations.
Despite reveling in the drunkenness of their poets such
as Li Bai (see p34), the Chinese have not been as badly
affected by alcoholism as many other societies. Public
drunkenness is frowned upon – except maybe in the
ever more popular karaoke bars. Traditionally, only soup
was drunk with meals, but this is changing, especially
when eating with foreigners. “Gan bei!” or “dry the cup” is
the clarion call to toasting bouts and drinking games.
Beware the legendary capacity of the northeast Chinese, Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong – home to the
and don’t drink alone or on an empty stomach. most popular bars and restaurants in the city
572 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
Temple Restaurant
Beijing ¥¥¥
International Map 2 D4
23 Shatan Houjie
Tel (010) 8400 2232
This restaurant is located in a
building within the walls of a
600-year-old temple complex,
most recently used as a factory
producing TVs. All the dishes
are good, though the classic
Chinese cuisine – try the veal
chop and sweet-and-sour carrot
purée – is exceptional. The wine
list is considered Beijing’s best.
Diners can order from both
Minimalist decor at the Temple Restaurant Beijing à la carte and set menus.
DK Choice
QINGDAO: Shang Palace ¥¥¥
Regional
1st Floor, Shangri-La Hotel,
9 Xiang Gang Zhong Lu
Tel (0532) 8388 3838
A glamorous, upscale
establishment located in one of
Qingdao’s finest hotels, Shang
Palace serves beautifully
prepared classic regional fare
such as char siu porkk (BBQ pork).
However, the chef is not afraid to
innovate and the menu features
braised pork ribs with pine nuts
in red wine sauce. The staff are
dressed in traditional attire.
Opulent furnishings at the renowned Shang Palace, Qingdao
Peruvian-style rotisserie-cooked
DK Choice chicken. Food to take away and
Shaanxi XI’AN: Tong Sheng Xiang delivery are also available.
Restaurant ¥¥
XI’AN: Defachang Restaurant ¥ Regional Din Tai Fung ¥
Regional Bell and Drum Tower Square Taiwanese
Anban Jie Tel (029) 8721 8711 2/F House 6, South Block, Xintiandi,
Tel (029) 8727 3853 Simple and unassuming, but Lane 123, Xinye Lu
One of Xi’an’s most famous a great local favorite for its Tel (021) 6385 8378
restaurants. Diners have a choice outstanding yangrou pao mo. Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese
of 100 different items that can be This well-seasoned and hearty chain that serves unforgettable
ordered from a picture menu. lamb soup, served in a bowl xiaolongbao (steamed bun)
with crumbled unleavened dumplings and other tasty
XI’AN: Delhi Darbar Xi’an ¥ bread, has been consistently steamed snacks. There is a
Indian warming hearts in the area for children’s play area, and the staff
3 Datang Tongyifang, Yanta Xilu over a century now. Definitely are friendly and helpful.
Guests looking to get a break worth trying.
from local cuisine should come Element Fresh ¥
to this long-standing Indian International
restaurant that serves good Shanghai Centre, 1376 Nanjing
curries and naan bread. Xi Lu
Frequented by expats. Shanghai Tel (021) 6279 8682
This casual place is one of
XI’AN: First Noodle Under Blue Frog Bar & Grill ¥ several branches across
the Sun ¥ American Shanghai. It serves good
Regional 131 Tianyueqiao Lu Western options, such as
Hanguang Nan Lu Tel (021) 3368 6117 salads, sandwiches, and
Tel (029) 8728 6088 This well-run bar and pasta dishes. It is particularly
This vibrant restaurant restaurant serves classic popular for weekend brunch,
specializing in noodles is located American fare. The burgers are when it gets quite crowded.
near Xi’an’s famous Great Goose a specialty, and there is a happy
Pagoda, and it is popular with hour every day with half-price Farine ¥
both tourists and locals. drinks and food. Café
1 F, Ferguson Lane, 378 Wukang Lu,
XI’AN: Huimin Jie ¥ Bohemia Cafe and Bar ¥ Xuhui district
Regional Café Tel (021) 6433 5798
Huimin Jie 42, Lane 248, Taikang Lu This café/boulangerie is a great
Xi’an’s Muslim Street is a lively Tel (021) 6415 0065 place to try artisanal breads and
destination thanks to its bustling Located on a trendy, pastries. Discerning customers
market stalls and street vendors pedestrianized street, this flock here to buy loaves and
selling roujiamo (Chinese burgers popular, cozy café has both enjoy a croque monsieur (grilled
in pitta bread) and a variety of indoor and outdoor seating. ham and cheese sandwich).
other snacks. Order coffee and a panini and
watch the world go by. Hang Yuen Hin ¥
XI’AN: Tang Dynasty Music Dim Sum
and Dance Show ¥ Brasa Chicken ¥ 290–292 Wanping Lu
Regional International Tel (021) 6472 9778
165 Wenyi Lu 450 Taixing Lu, near Xinzha Rd In a verdant park setting, this is
Tel (029) 8822 1873 Tel (021) 6277 8166 one of Shanghai’s best dim sum
This is a great place for visitors to A no-frills, laid-back kind of restaurants. It serves tasty crab
enjoy reasonable buffet food place, where the menu is dishes and egg tarts, and offers
while watching the cultural distinctly meat-oriented. One a 50 percent lunch discount on
performances held every night. of the highlights is the delicious dim sum on weekdays.
For more information on types of restaurant see pp566–7
576 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
8 ½ Otto e Mezzo
Bombana ¥¥¥
Italian
6th Floor, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu
Tel (021) 6087 2890
Expensive Italian restaurant with
a slinky bar near the Bund. The
seasonal à la carte menu features
dishes such as fresh poached
Normandy blue lobster. There is
also a tasting menu worth trying
The ultra-fancy bar at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Shanghai on special occasions.
Key to Price Guide see p572
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 577
NANJING: Nanjing Da
Pai Dang, Deji Plaza ¥
Regional
18 Zhongshan Lu, near Xinjiekou Metro
Tel (025) 8472 2777
Traditional Nanjing food in fun
and kitschy surroundings. There
is usually a line of university
students outside. Trendy and plush seating at Jade on 36 in Shanghai
For more information on types of restaurant see pp566–7
578 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Fujian
FUZHOU: Ez Café ¥¥
International
Shangri-La Hotel, 9 Xin Quan Nan Lu
Tel (0591) 8798 8566
Visit at lunch for the well-stocked
international buffet, and at
dinner for the excellent sampling
of both Asian and European
dishes. Good desserts, too.
FUZHOU: Xinjinyue
Restaurant ¥¥
Seafood
438 Guangda Lu
Tel (0591) 2830 5777
The city’s fanciest restaurant
offers delicious seafood, such as
sashimi and Fujianese delicacies. Informal dining space at Ez Café in Fuzhou
For more information on types of restaurant see pp566–7
580 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
SHENZHEN: Benjia
Korean Restaurant ¥
Korean
8 Baishi Lu
Tel (0755) 8654 1158
Spread over two floors, Benjia
is always packed with Korean
expats enjoying mouthwatering
BBQ pork and beef with pickled
kimchi on the side.
LANZHOU: Wu Mu Le ¥
Regional Xinjiang Tibet
2168 Beibinhe Xi Lu
Closed eves KASHGAR: Orda ¥ LHASA: Guangming
Be prepared to wait at this Middle Eastern Gangqiongtian Tea House ¥
popular draw to try the city’s 169 Renmin Dong Lu Teahouse
most famous and tastiest This authentic Xinjiang Danjielin Lu
noodles and beef dishes. restaurant serves spicy kabobs Tel (0891) 6885 357
accompanied by cooling bowls A local favorite known for serving
LANZHOU: Zhong Hua ¥ of yogurt. The Uighur waiting Tibetan sweet tea and noodles.
Regional staff are quite friendly.
765 Nanchang Lu
Tel (0931) 8880 555 KASHGAR: Altun Orda ¥¥ DK Choice
The flagship establishment of a Middle Eastern LHASA: Lhasa Namaste
well-known local chain of Muslim Renmin Xi Lu Restaurant ¥
restaurants. Be sure to try the Tel (0998) 2583 555 International
succulent roast mutton, which Altun Orda is a very high-end 2/F, 30 Yutuo Lu
is best eaten using your fingers and luxuriously furbished Tel (0891) 6324 669
instead of cutlery. Xinjiang restaurant. The excellent This friendly place offers Indian,
pilaf is highly recommended. The European, Chinese, Tibetan, and
XINING: Qinghai Tu Huoguo ¥ staff speak some basic English. Nepali dishes, as well as burgers,
Regional ice creams, and cakes. A great
Intersection of Xiaoxin Jie and TURPAN: Best Food Burger ¥ place to meet travelers.
Yinma Jie American
Qinghai-style hotpot is the Dashizi, Laocheng Xi Lu
perfect dish for the long winter, Fans of American-style fast food LHASA: Zonglianzangsu
and the one served here is truly can head to Best Food Burger, Vegetarian Restaurant ¥
memorable. Beware of the spicy safe in the knowledge that the Vegetarian
variety, though, as it is quite hot. menu here features nothing 2/F, 7 Barkhor Square
other than burgers and fries. Tel (0891) 6325 058
XINING: Shalihai Food City ¥ Overlooking the Jokhang Temple,
Regional ÜRÜMQI: Huo Yan Shan ¥ this restaurant serves tasty dishes
4 Bei Dajie Regional featuring local ingredients such as
Tel (0971) 8234 444 2/F, 1 Mingyuan Xi Lu Tibetan mushrooms and walnuts.
This popular local chain Tel (0991) 4562 888
specializes in mutton dishes. An all-you-can-eat self-service SHIGATSE: Third Eye Restaurant ¥
Try the stewed mutton in rice hotpot place with live local music Regional
wine and deep fried diced performances during lunch Zhufeng Lu
potatoes. No English is spoken and dinner. Diners may have Tel (0892) 883 8898
here, so guests might have to to share a table. A mix of well-executed dishes from
do some pointing. Tibet and Nepal. Try the thukpa
ÜRÜMQI: Miraj ¥ (noodle soup) or the tasty curries.
XINING: Yi Xin ¥ Regional
Regional 31, 2nd Alley, Shengli Lu SHIGATSE: Wordo Kitchen ¥
5 Baiyu Xiang, near junction with Tel (0991) 2885 522 Regional
Dong Dajie Do not miss this gorgeously 8 Zhade Dong Lu
Tel (0971) 8179 336 and exotically decorated Uighur Tel (0892) 8823 994
One of the best local Muslim restaurant. Miraj is one of Gorgeous decor and friendly staff
restaurants, with a reputation Ürümqi’s premier fine-dining await here. The food is traditional
for cleanliness and good-quality venues, serving spicy and tasty yet wholesome; try the roasted
cuisine. Try the la mian noodles. lamb kabobs. leg of lamb.
For more information on types of restaurant see pp566–7
586 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Antiques
Unless you’re an expert, buying
antiques in China is a rather
A busy street in Zhaoqing, Guangdong risky proposition. Many Chinese
cities have flourishing antiques
International Stores Markets markets, but most of the items
The consumer revolution in The best way to experience on sale will undoubtedly be
China has led to the influx of China’s diversity and its fake. However, as long as you
upmarket brand stores, many ethnic cultures is to visit don’t mistake them for the real
shopping plazas, and fashion the bustling local markets, thing, it is fun to browse and
boutiques in every city, especially in rural areas. bargain for cheap replicas. The
especially Beijing and Held on specific days state-run antique shops, like
Shanghai. Brands from Gucci of the week, these are the Friendship
and Prada to Gap, Zara, and locally known as Stores, are in decline
Apple can now be found in ganji, which means – and never had any
the leading retail cities of “going to market,” bargains anyway.
Shanghai and Beijing, as well as or ganjie, mean- Shops in the foyers
the many malls in other ing “going to of art galleries and
Chinese cities. the street.” museums also sell
As in most developed Traditionally, Selling carpets at a market in works of art such as
countries, there is heavy people from the Linxia, Gansu scroll paintings,
emphasis on high-end items surrounding calligraphy, and
such as electrical goods, countryside came into town attractive silk scarves. In China,
designer fashion, perfumes, on market days to buy or sell objects dating to 1795 or
jewelry, and watches, while their farm produce. earlier may not be legally
large stores, such as Carrefour, Nowadays, however, rural exported, so make sure any
Marks & Spencer, IKEA, and markets are expanding their antiques (of a later date) that
Walmart, offer foods, souvenirs, scope, and it is not uncommon you purchase carry a red wax
and household goods at to see stalls selling a range of seal permitting export. Always
reasonable prices. household items from keep the receipts as they may
toothbrushes to woks and be required at Customs.
Shopping Malls
As in all fast-emerging Asian
nations, mall shopping is a
favored urban leisure pursuit. In
most Chinese cities, glassy
retail plazas dominate the
downtown areas. They are
usually built to a similar design
and house a mix of upmarket
brands, coffee shops, fast food
outlets, and local eateries, with
a giant supermarket in the
basement. In the central
business districts of the largest
cities, upscale shopping malls
are attached to luxury hotels.
While the malls multiply,
China’s department store
heritage is fast diminishing. A souvenir shop in Qingcheng Shan park near Chengdu
588 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Base of ink
stone
Writing brushes
should have a defined
tip and firm fur bristles.
Ink sticks made of soot are
ground down and mixed
with water on an ink stone.
Silk
Woven from the strands that make up a silkworm’s
cocoon, silk is also a Chinese invention (see pp214–15).
Clothes made of silk, such as ladies’ cheongsams,
are widely available, but be aware that silk sold in
markets is likely to be rayon. Beautiful embroidery
on silk is also available.
Silk-covered
cushions
Jade, a semiprecious
stone, is associated
Silk embroidered coasters with immortality. These
pendants are green,
Silk bags but the lustrous gem
Other Traditional Handicrafts can also be gray or brown.
Occasionally created by skilled craftsmen but
often mass produced, Chinese handicrafts are
almost always highly intricate and of vibrant
color. The variety of goods on offer is staggering,
from delicate miniature glass bottles to the bold
graphics of Communist memorabilia.
ENTERTAINMENT
The Chinese work hard, but they also take counterparts, including contemporary films
their leisure seriously, and have a range of and music concerts. Karaoke is hugely popular,
traditional and modern entertainment. The and most towns and cities have numerous
vast tradition of performing arts reflects bars, where visitors can sing along to popular
China’s rich cultural heritage, and includes Chinese and Western songs, accompanied by
Chinese opera, theater, shadow puppetry, the latest videos. The Internet has opened
and the circus. Many types of dance and up new avenues for online entertainment,
music derive from ethnic cultures, adding with many people carrying smartphones,
to the diversity of entertainment. China’s tablets, and laptops. Casino gambling is only
increasing Westernization has meant that permitted in the specially administered
young people in particular enjoy the same region of Macau, and horse-racing is popular
leisure activities as their Western in Hong Kong (see p338).
Traditional Forms
of Theater
Beijing Opera (jingju) is a world-
famous traditional art form
unique to China (see pp80–81). It
is highly stylized and characters
wear elaborate costumes with
special makeup and masks.
Performances usually take
Passing the time with a game of xiangqi on the sidewalks of Xi’an place on a simple stage with
few props.
Games vertical and ten horizontal lines. The Chinese circus has a
Playing games in public parks The board game Go (weiqi) worldwide reputation for its
is an age-old Chinese custom, dates back more than 4,000 highly trained gymnasts who
and though visitors may feel too years. Also known as encircle- perform breathtaking routines
inhibited to challenge locals to ment chess, it involves two that showcase their unnerving
a game, they are great fun to opposing sides, each with flexibility. Displays of balance
watch. Some Chinese games a set of circular stones, often involve household props,
date back thousands of years. struggling for territory. such as brooms, plates, and
The most well-known game is chairs, with one of the most
mahjong, which uses plastic
tiles, originally made of bamboo Spectator Sports
or ivory. The rules are similar to The most popular sports
rummy, with players trying to at schools and colleges are
create identical, or consecutively basketball, badminton, and
numbered, sets. More advanced table tennis (ping pong),
versions of the game have and the Chinese excel
special tiles representing the internationally in the latter
four winds, four dragons, two. Soccer is also played
seasons, and flowers. When a and followed with
game is in full swing, the quick enthusiasm. The top
movements of the participants European clubs have a
make the tiles click and clatter – strong fan base in China,
a popular translation of and Chinese soccer players
mahjong is “chattering sparrows.” are now being recruited by
Chinese checkers (xiangqi) is them. Fitness centers and
another popular game. Here, gyms are becoming
there are two opposing sets of increasingly popular in
round counters. The board is cities. Traditional martial Actors in a Beijing Opera, performing in
divided into squares by nine arts such as tai ji quan are opulent costumes
E N T E R TA I N M E N T 591
SPORTS AND
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
As the Olympic host for 2008, Beijing was the rock-climbing and more. Courses in martial arts
showpiece city for a nation that celebrates can be found in most tourist centers, or head to
sporting heroes with the fervor once reserved the hallowed halls of the Shaolin Temple to find
for political icons – soccer and basketball have a master. Organized tours ply the major sights
become big spectator sports. The spending of the country, but for a really memorable
power and leisure interests of China’s booming experience book a trip that has a fascinating
middle classes translate into more sporting focus, whether photography, whitewater
choices for visitors too – there’s skiing, golf, rafting, costume, or horse-trekking.
Traversing the sand dunes of Mingsha Shan by camel, near Dunhuang, Gansu
capital, enjoy Beidaihe, long the bane of all organized trips Tibetan monasteries in
the Communist Party’s summer in China. These detours (from western Sichuan and through
retreat, or the seashores of which your guide may be the dense jungle and rural
the lovely city of Qingdao. earning a commission) can cut hamlets of Xishuangbanna.
sightseeing time short and will The Bespoke Travel Company
become increasingly boring. is an excellent resource for
Downhill Skiing There’s a wide choice of tours, excursions, and guided
The best natural snow and ski tour companies to travel with. walks in and around Beijing and
resorts lie in Heilongjiang and Abercrombie & Kent is an Shanghai. They also arrange
Jilin provinces. Yabuli, about established international group hotel and car bookings and
100 miles (160 km) from Harbin, that has provided well-organized restaurant reservations.
is one of the most established trips for decades. Steppes
resorts, and Club Med has Travel, which is particularly
opened its first winter sports strong on the Silk Routes and Train-Spotting
resort there. There are also several Tibet, provides suggested With its extensive rail network,
upscale ski resorts at Changbai itineraries that it is happy to China has been a favorite
Shan. In the Beijing suburbs there tailor for private tours, as well as destination of train lovers
are at least 10 slopes, mostly with several expert-led itineraries for for years, particularly as it
man-made snow, and Shanghai groups. Tibetan Connections is continued to run steam
has one of the world’s largest run by Tibetans and offers a locomotives well after other
indoor facilities. Large feet may good range of adventurous nations discontinued their use.
cause problems with equipment tours across China’s ethnically Several lines–often private
rentals, and watch your back – Tibetan regions. Myths and railroads in industrial areas–still
complete novices abound. Mountains has some well use steam, and their services are
thought-out itineraries that increasingly popular with
cover Yunnan and Tibet, and domestic and international
Choosing a Tour an interesting range of festival- visitors. China now has a
A multitude of tour companies focused trips. Wild China national super-high-speed rail
ferry groups of tourists through organizes tours nationwide, network, which has revolution-
the top sights of China. If you are including trips to remote ized rail travel (see pp616–17).
thinking of booking a
tour, do your research
carefully; it is
essential to find one
that suits you well.
Beyond the obvious
essentials of types
of accommodation,
transportation, the
size of the group, and
the itinerary, be sure
to ask about the
tipping policy, which
can sometimes add a
sizable unexpected
cost to your trip. Also
query the frequency
of shopping stops, Boarding a traditional raft kept afloat by inflated sheep stomachs, Yellow River
594 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
of kung fu practitioners
at daybreak in the nation’s
parks, particularly if your
interest is tai ji quan.
If you want to fight with
more than your bare hands,
paintballing is growing in
popularity – try the listings
magazines in the large cities.
For those who really need to
let off steam, anti-aircraft guns
and AK-47s are available for
renting at the firing range
en route from Beijing to the
Great Wall at Badaling.
Martial Arts
China attracts thousands of
martial arts enthusiasts hoping
to find the roots of their practice.
Many head for famous Shaolin
Temple in Henan (see p164),
where Bodhidarma is said to
have first taught the monks exer-
cises that developed into shaolin A class of soon-to-be kung fu masters, Shaolin Temple, Henan
S P O R T S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 595
DIRECTORY
Sports Downhill Skiing Myths and Mountains Cycle Tours
976 Tee Court, Incline
Basketball Club Med
Village, Nevada, Bike China
∑ nbachina.com 160 miles (260 km) from
USA 89451.
Harbin airport. Adventures
Formula One Tel 1-800 670 6984.
∑ f1-shanghai.com ∑ clubmed.com ∑ mythsand 6 Yi Guan Miao Fang
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
China is going through an explosion in both cities the tourist infrastructure, including
international and domestic tourism. While transportation, hotels, and restaurants, is
there have been gradual improvements in on a par with international standards. The
the quality of tourist services, some of the remoter areas, however, provide fairly basic
remoter sights can still be difficult to reach accommodations and may not be equipped
independently, and most accessible sights to cater to the needs of the international
get very crowded, especially during the tourist. Communication also poses
summer season. Due to the absence of a difficulties, as English is not spoken widely
nationwide non-profit network of tourist and its usage is generally restricted to major
information centers, visitors often have to cities, tour groups, four- and five-star hotels,
rely on hotels for guidance. In the larger and restaurants catering to tourists.
Annoyances
The Chinese habit of staring,
especially in smaller towns and
rural areas, can be a little
annoying. However, the intent
is rarely hostile. Staring was
common even in Beijing until the
1990s, and although it is rare in
cities today, it helps to remember
that China was closed to foreign
nationals until the early 1980s.
Another annoyance that
visitors face in smaller towns are
the constant calls of “Hellooo!”
or laowai (“foreigner”). It is best
to either ignore them or smile, Bric-a-brac to be haggled over on display at a street market in Tianjin
as saying hello often results in
bursts of laughter. In large carriages. The Chinese are Tipping
cities, people often strike up very generous when it comes Tipping is rare in China – there
conversation to practice their to offering cigarettes, so is no obligation to leave a tip
English. Sometimes, art students remember to be equally (xiaofei) and people don’t
try and coerce you into visiting generous in return. They also usually expect one. Some
over-priced art galleries, which enjoy drinking alcohol, and smarter restaurants, especially
you should firmly decline to do. there is no taboo against in Hong Kong, Macau, and the
Although line-ups are moderate intoxication. main Chinese cities, include a
beginning to replace the The usual accompaniment service charge on the bill.
usual mêlée at ticket offices, during a meal is beer (pijiu),
be prepared for a lot of or white spirit (baijiu).
pushing and shoving. People in cities are Begging
Since the outbreak of increasingly drinking China’s imbalanced economic
SARS in 2002 (see p606), wine, and it is available progress and huge population
public health in most large of rural poor have resulted in
organizations have supermarkets. If large numbers of beggars all
made considerable someone raises a toast over the country, especially in
efforts to curb the habit to you (ganbei!), it is cities. Foreign visitors naturally
of spitting. It is still good form for you attract their attention, and
widespread, however, A spirit consumed at to toast the person groups of children are often
especially in rural business banquets back at a later stage. sent by their parents to extract
areas. Spitting is money. The best strategy is to
common on buses and trains, ignore them and walk away.
and it is not considered rude to Bargaining
spit in mid-conversation, so do As a foreign national in China, it
not take offense. is essential to bargain (jiangjia).
You may often be overcharged –
sometimes by large amounts –
Smoking and Alcohol in markets and anywhere
Smoking is now banned in else where prices are not indi-
public places in China, such cated. In some restaurants,
as restaurants, hotels, train the English menu has more
stations and theaters. However, expensive rates than the Chinese
as the world’s largest producer one. You may be able to bargain
and consumer of cigarettes to reduce your hotel room rate,
(xiangyan), these rules are especially during the low season.
difficult to enforce in China. When bargaining, there is no
Despite the appearance of need to be aggressive. Instead,
no-smoking zones, many firmly state your price – which
people choose to ignore them, should never be unrealistic – and
and towns and cities remain walk away if the vendor doesn’t
shrouded in a haze of cigarette agree. Shopkeepers will often
smoke. Many business owners agree to the price once they
resent banning their customers realize they’re losing a potential
from smoking on their premises. sale. The prices in large shops and
Smoking is also banned on government emporia (guoying A beggar in Lhasa with colorful
domestic flights and in train shangdian) are usually fixed. Buddhist regalia
604 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
In an Emergency International SOS, Shanghai Ireland
Tel Police 110. Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Parkway Health, 3 Ritan Dong Lu.
Tel Fire 119. Building, 16 Xin Yuan Li, 203/4 West Retail Plaza, Tel (010) 8531 6200.
Tel Ambulance 120. Chaoyang. Clinic appts: Shanghai Center, 1376
United Kingdom
Tel (010) 6462 9112. Nanjing West Road.
11 Guanghua Lu.
Hospital and ∑ internationalsos.com Tel (021) 6445 5999.
Tel (010) 5192 4000.
Medical Facilities ∑ parkwayhealth.cn
Guangzhou USA
Beijing Can-Am International Embassies in 55 Anjia Lou Lu.
Hong Kong International Medical Center, 5th floor, Beijing Tel (010) 8531 4000.
Medical Clinic, Garden Tower, Garden
Hotel, 368 Huanshi Dong Australia Travel Health
9th floor,
Lu. Tel (020) 8386 6988. 21 Dongzhimen
Office Tower,
∑ canamhealth Wai Dajie. MASTA
Hong Kong Macau
care.com Tel (010) 5140 4111. Tel (0330) 100 4200.
Center, Swissotel,
∑ masta-travel-
2 Chaoyang Men Hong Kong Canada
health.com
Bei Dajie. Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 19 Dongzhimen
Tel (010) 6553 2288. 30 Gascoigne Rd, Yau Ma Wai Dajie. MD Travel Health
∑ hkclinic.com Tei. Tel (0852) 3506 8888. Tel (010) 5139 4000. ∑ mdtravelhealth.com
606 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
may even want to bring your long period and likely to come
own disposable syringe for the into contact with animals. Do
doctor to use. Any procedure not have this vaccine, unless
using needles, such as tattooing advised by your doctor.
or ear-piercing, is best avoided.
Insect-Borne Diseases
Water-Borne Diseases Mosquitos are rife during
Visitors must be on their guard the summer in China. In
against dysentery. Bacillary the southern part of the
dysentery is accompanied country, mosquitos can carry a
by severe stomach pains, number of diseases. If you are
A food stall with a tempting but vomiting, and fever, whereas visiting an area with a high risk
risky display amoebic dysentery has similar of malaria, take preventive anti-
symptoms but takes longer to malarial drugs before, during,
avoid birds at outdoor markets, manifest. Vaccination against and after your trip. Contact
and eat only poultry and Hepatitis A is advisable before MASTA (Medical Advisory
eggs that have been leaving home, especially if Services for Travellers Abroad)
thoroughly cooked. you plan to visit rural areas. and check the MD Travel
In 2009, China underwent Other water-borne diseases, Health website (see p605)
a mass vaccination such as cholera and for information on malaria
program against swine typhoid, can also be medication. Dengue fever
flu (H1N1) for at-risk prevented with vaccines. and Japanese B encephalitis
individuals (such as Schistosomiasis (bilharzia), are also carried by mosquitos.
young children and a disease caused by a To guard against mosquito
pregnant women). The water-borne parasitic bites, apply mosquito repellent
World Health Organisation worm found in south and wear clothes that cover
(WHO) provides up-to- and central China, can as much of your arms and
date information on be avoided by not legs as possible.
serious diseases. If you swimming in fresh water.
develop symptoms of Bottled Drink bottled mineral
pneumonia or flu after mineral water water at all times, and
Altitude Sickness
your trip, see your avoid ice cubes. A lack of sufficient oxygen at
physician immediately. altitudes higher than 8,000 ft
(2,500 m) can cause attacks of
Rabies Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Sexually Transmitted and The deadly rabies virus is spread – severe headaches, dizziness,
Other Infectious Diseases via the bite of an infected and loss of appetite. If these
After years of denial, animal. If you are bitten, clean symptoms persist beyond 48
Chinese authorities have the bite with an antiseptic hours, you must descend to a
begun to publicly admit to the solution and seek medical help lower altitude immediately and
alarming spread of HIV – the at once. Treatment involves a seek medical help. To avoid
virus that causes Acquired course of injections. A rabies altitude sickness ascend slowly,
Immune Deficiency Syndrome vaccine is only necessary if you drink plenty of fluids, and avoid
(AIDS) – via unprotected sex, are visiting high-risk areas for a alcohol and sedatives.
drug use, and infected blood
banks. Nonetheless, consider-
able ignorance about the
disease and its prevention
still exists in rural areas, and
most prostitutes working in
the cities are from rural China.
Long-term visitors to China are
screened for HIV infection.
Hepatitis B, also transmitted
through contact with infected
blood, is spread through sexual
contact, unsterilized needles,
tattoos, and shaves from road-
side barbers. However, it can
be prevented with a vaccine.
When visiting a clinic, ensure
that the doctor opens a new
syringe in front of you. You Trekking at high altitudes on Chomolungma (Mount Everest)
608 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Changing Money
Banking and Local Currency Chinese currency is not widely
China provides a wide range of banking facilities and money available internationally,
exchange services, which are available in large cities, interna- though, increasingly, it can
tional airports, major banks, and top-end hotels. Always be exchanged in Asian airports
and banks in major Asian cities,
keep some cash to hand for transportation, restaurants, and as well as Hong Kong and
purchases, as traveler’s checks and credit cards cannot Macau. Within China, you can
be used everywhere, especially in rural areas. ATMs that exchange currency at banks
accept international cards are easy to find in all major cities. and international airports
Foreign banks like HSBC and Standard Chartered are and most decent hotels will
change money for guests.
expanding their branch networks in major Chinese cities.
Most major currencies are
accepted. All exchange
operations are linked to the
Banks and Banking Hours card issuer’s website for Bank of China, so rates vary
The Bank of China has the most locations that do. In cities, ATMs little between them. Keep
extensive network in the are located in banks, shopping exchange receipts so that you
country. Several other major malls, five-star hotels and air- can re-convert any surplus
banks operate nationwide, ports. Some ATMs also dispense renminbi before leaving China.
including the Industrial and cash against credit cards. Cash The Chinese “black market” for
Commercial Bank of China withdrawn from ATMs is subject exchanging foreign currency
(ICBC), the China Construction to the same exchange rate as offers only marginally better
Bank, and China Merchants credit cards, and there may be rates than banks. Dealing with
Bank. Banks are normally open a limit to how much you can the shady characters involved is
9am–4:30pm or 5pm Monday withdraw per day, so check with not worth the hassle or risk, and
to Friday, but there are your bank for more information. you may end up with
variations between places, counterfeit renminbi.
and some banks are open Hong Kong dollars are con-
on Saturdays. All banks remain vertible and available outside
closed for the first three days the country. They are accepted
of the Chinese New Year, with in Macau and most southern
reduced hours during other Special Economic Zones.
Chinese holidays.
Credit Cards
ATMs Credit cards are widely accepted
ATMs that accept foreign cards in upscale restaurants, hotels,
are common in all major cities and high-street stores, but
of mainland China, plus Hong always check before attempting
Kong and Macau, so can be to make a purchase that your
relied upon for easy access to foreign card is accepted. The
cash. In more remote areas of accepted cards are MasterCard,
China, not all ATMs may accept Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Visa, Japan Credit Bureau (JCB),
international cards; visit your Corporation (HSBC) ATMs Diners Club, and American
DIRECTORY
Bank of China Shanghai Shanghai Shanghai
39/F, Bank of China Tower, HSBC Tower, Citibank Tower, 33
Beijing 200 Yincheng Zhong Lu, 8 Century Avenue, Huayuan Shiqiao Lu,
2 Chaoyang Men Nei Pudong, 200120. Pudong, 200120.
Pudong, 200120.
Dajie. 1 Fuxing Men Nei 24-Hr ATMs American Express
Hong Kong
Dajie, 100818. Shanghai Center,
1 Garden Road, Central Beijing
∑ boc.cn 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu.
24–28 Carnarvon Road, Room 2101, China World
24-Hr ATMs Tsim Sha Tsui. Tower One, China World
Citibank Trade Center, 1 Jianguo
Arrivals Hall, Capital Men Wai Dajie, 100004.
Airport. Corner of HSBC Beijing ∑ americanexpress.
1/F Tower 1, com.cn
Sundongan Plaza, Beijing Bright Chang
Wangfujing Dajie. 1/F, Fortune Financial An Building, 7 Shanghai
Corner of Oriental Plaza, Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Jianguomennei Dajie. Room 206, Retail Plaza,
1 Dongchang’an Jie. Zhong Lu. ∑ hsbc.com.cn ∑ citibank.com.cn Shanghai Center, 200040.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 609
Express. Air tickets can be and even then, they will do 10 almost worthless fen. In
bought by credit card from the so reluctantly, as the process colloquial Chinese, jiao is called
Civil Aviation Administration is complicated. Avoid bringing mao, and yuan is kuai. The most
of China (CAAC) offices, but traveler’s checks if at all possible. common coins include 1 yuan,
train tickets have to be paid Keep the proof of purchase 5 jiao, and 1 jiao, while the bills
for in cash. Cash advances slips and a record of the serial in circulation are 1, 2, and 5 jiao,
can be made on credit cards numbers in case of loss or theft. and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100
at the Bank of China. Hold on to encashment slips, yuan. There are also some fen
so you can convert spare coins and notes, but this tiny
renminbi to another currency denomination is rarely accepted.
Traveler’s Checks before leaving the country. Try not to acquire too many
Traveler’s checks are safer to damaged notes, as they may be
carry than cash and offer a difficult to get rid of. Counter-
better exchange rate, but you Currency feiting is widespread, and shop-
will have to pay a commission. China’s currency is called yuan keepers regularly scrutinize large
In addition, they are very hard renminbi, literally “people’s denominations. Hong Kong
to exchange; indeed, only the money”. One yuan divides dollars divide into 100 cents, and
Bank of China will change them, into 10 jiao, which divides into Macanese patacas into 100 avos.
Banknotes
The more recently minted bills have Mao Zedong
on one side and a well-known heritage sight on
the other. The older bills depict the traditional
dress of various ethnic minorities.
1-yuan note
5-yuan note
10-yuan note
20-yuan note
50-yuan note
100-yuan note
Coins
Chinese coins are not widely
circulated. There is a 1 yuan coin,
some jiao denominations, as
well as tiny and lightweight fen. 5 jiao 1 jiao 1 yuan
610 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
China Post
Tel 11185.
∑ ems.com.cn
∑ chinapost.com.cn
DHL Worldwide Express
Tel 800 810 8000 (toll free
nationwide). ∑ dhl.com
Federal Express
Tel 800 988 1888 (toll free
nationwide). ∑ fedex.com.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most visitors to China arrive by air, though especially for sleeping berths – can be rare
overland routes exist with train links to neigh- during the holiday periods. The intercity
boring Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and high-speed rail network is extensive, and
Vietnam, and a bus link to Pakistan. It is also often a good substitute for flying. Bus
possible to arrive by sea; there are regular travel is improving, with buses covering
ferries from Japan and South Korea. Traveling the entire country, including a number
within the country – even to remote areas – of “luxury” buses that offer reasonable
is possible by air, train, road, and, on a comfort. Renting a car is not advised;
few routes, by boat. China has a huge, rapidly the paperwork required to obtain a
expanding rail network, although tickets – Chinese driving licence is extensive.
Air Fares
Air fares vary according to the
airline and the season. The peak
season for international flights
to China is between June and
September, when prices are
highest. Reasonably priced tickets
are also hard to find during the
holidays: Chinese New Year and
State-of-the-art terminal at Beijing Airport the first week of October. While
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 613
Beijing Capital Airport (010) 96158 16 miles (25 km) northeast 40 mins (taxi)
Hongqiao Airport
(021) 5114 6655 12 miles (19 km) west 30 mins (taxi)
(Shanghai)
Pudong Airport (Shanghai) (021) 6834 5328 28 miles (45 km) east 45 mins (taxi)
Macau International Airport (0853) 2886 1111 3 miles (5 km) northwest 15 mins (taxi)
614 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
journey time. Also, always domestic flights is usually departing from. Business class
allow time for unforeseen ¥50, and is paid at the time tickets cost 25 percent more
delays en route. In many large of purchasing the ticket. than economy, while first class
cities and towns, you can reach tickets cost 60 percent more.
the airport or travel from the Children over the age of 12 are
airport into town on a CAAC Tickets, Reservations, charged adult fares, while there
bus, which departs from and and Cancellations are special discounted fares for
arrives at the CAAC office in Each domestic airline has younger children and infants.
town. In larger cities, such as a booking office in most cities, If you wish to return or
Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong as well as a reservation counter change your air ticket, you
Kong, dedicated bus at each airport. can get a refund as long as
and train services Tickets can be you cancel at least 24 hours
run from town to booked through before departure, and return
the airport. Hong ticket offices, travel your ticket to the same agent
Kong, Shanghai and agents, online via who sold it to you. Even if you
Beijing airports all www.ctrip.com and miss your flight, you are entitled
have express train www.elong.com, or to a refund of 50 percent of the
links to the city. the travel desks of full fare. You may be asked to
Shanghai’s some of the buy travel insurance from your
Hongqiao better hotels – ticketing agent. However, it is
and Pudong you should not generally not worthwhile, as
Airports are be charged a the claim amount is very low.
connected to booking fee.
the city’s metro Travel agents
system (line 2). tend to offer DIRECTORY
For faster travel Road signs to the airport, Hong Kong the best
to and from discounts. CAAC Offices
downtown, the high-speed Credit cards are accepted by
∑ caac.gov.cn
Maglev train connects with many travel agents and CAAC
Longyang Road metro station offices. Visitors are required to Beijing
(also line 2), near the Pudong show their passports when Tel (010) 8778 6114.
commercial/residential centre. purchasing tickets. There is Shanghai
Taxis wait for passengers generally no shortage of tickets Tel (021) 6835 7207.
outside the arrivals hall. Make unless you are flying between
sure you head for the taxi rank Hong Kong and a mainland China Eastern Airlines
and avoid the numerous touts destination, except in the run
∑ en.ceair.com
who will try to direct you up to and during the Chinese
Tel (010) 95530
towards their own car. Insist New Year, and the week-long
(nationwide hotline).
on the driver using the meter. holiday period after October 1,
Drivers rarely speak English so when it is advisable to book China Southern
have your destination written well ahead. Airlines
in Chinese characters or keep A combined international
∑ csair.com
the phone number of your and domestic timetable is
Tel (010) 95539
accommodation on hand published by CAAC in both
(nationwide hotline).
so the driver can call for English and Chinese. These
directions. If you have publications can be bought at Dragonair
booked accommodation, most airline offices and CAAC
check whether your hotel outlets. Individual airlines also ∑ dragonair.com
offers transport to and from print their own timetables, Hong Kong
the airport. available at booking offices Tel (0852) 3193 3888.
throughout the country. Flight
schedules are revised in April Shanghai
Check-In and October each year. Tel 400 888 6628
(nationwide in mainland China).
For most domestic flights, Ticket prices are calculated
the check-in time is at according to a one-way fare, Hainan Airlines
least an hour and a half and a return-ticket is simply
before departure, although double the single fare. Tel 0898 950712.
very few passengers arrive Discounts on official fares ∑ global.hnair.com
that early. Make sure all your are the norm, so it is best to
Sichuan Airlines
bags are tagged, and do not check with travel agents for
pack sharp objects, such as good deals. You are likely to Tel 4008 300 999.
scissors, tweezers, nail files, or get a better deal on a flight if ∑ scal.com.cn
knitting needles, in your hand you buy your ticket from an
luggage. The airport tax for agent in the city you are
616 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Fares vary slightly from city bikes are a good way to traverse
to city, the most expensive the city, but you may find the
being Beijing and Shanghai, traffic intimidating. Hangzhou
but taxis generally offer both has the best bike hire system,
good value and convenience. with dozens of kiosks to hire
In many cities, different official public bicycles from.
models of cars will have Make sure that any bike you
different rates. Tipping the rent has a lock. Handy bike
driver is not necessary. stands are found in big cities
Taxis can also be hired for and have an attendant to watch
the day – a convenient way the bikes for a nominal fee.
to see sights just out of town.
Agree on a price beforehand,
and make sure your driver is Road Names
clear on the extent of your Main streets, avenues, and
Bicycles in Beijing – the traditional way to itinerary. In Tibet, you may find thoroughfares are often divided
get around the city that hiring a jeep and driver is into different sections based
the only way to get to some on the four cardinal points.
routes and destinations are sights. It is customary to pay For example, Zhongshan Lu
listed in Chinese only. Hong for the driver’s lunch. (Zhongshan Road) may be
Kong has the most comfortable In smaller towns, motorcycle divided into Zhongshan Xi Lu
and easy to use bus system, rickshaws (sanlun motuoche) (West Road) and Zhongshan
although traffic can be as bad and bicycle rickshaws (sanlun Dong Lu (East Road). Similarly,
here as anywhere else. Hong che) are a convenient and you may also see Zhongshan
Kong also has an old tram line entertaining way to get Bei Lu (North Road) and
that runs from Kennedy Town around town. Do not take Zhongshan Nan Lu (South
to Causeway Bay on Hong Kong these in major cities – they Road). Apart from lu (road),
Island. Dalian has a few trams cost about the same as a taxi other key words are jie (street),
as well. Maps of bus and and frequently target and hutong and xiang (lane or
tram routes are widely tourists for historic alleyway). Road names
available, substantial in large cities such as Beijing
especially rip-offs. may also display the Pinyin
in and In some translation, but in smaller towns
around A city taxi in Beijing small towns, and remote destinations, only
train stations. they are the only Chinese is used. The use of
form of transport. Agree on the Pinyin is being phased out and
fare before climbing aboard. in many large cities signage
Taxis Motorcycle taxis are a very will be in Chinese script
The best way to get about quick way to cover longer and English only.
in cities that don’t have subway distances, although
systems is by taxi (chuzu qiche). they are really only
Taxis are found in large numbers practical if you are
in all Chinese cities – often traveling alone with
congregating near train stations little luggage. Insist
– and can be hailed easily in the on the driver
street. Guests staying at hotels providing you
can also ask the reception desk with a helmet.
to summon a taxi. When
arriving at airports, avoid the
touts who immediately Cycling
surround you, and head instead Hiring a bicycle is
to the taxi rank outside where one of the best ways
you are less likely to be over- to explore towns and
charged. Also, make sure the their environs. Bike
driver uses the meter (biao) or lanes are common
negotiate a flat rate in advance. (although not always
Taxis rarely have rear seat belts respected by drivers)
(anquan dai), so sit in front if and roadside repair
you are traveling alone. Few stalls are everywhere.
taxi drivers speak English, In Beijing, the bicycle
so it is advisable to have your is a major mode of
destination written down in transport. With its
Chinese, which the staff at your spread-out sights
hotel will gladly do for you. and flat terrain, Taxis and buses on a busy street in the center of Macau
622 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Amherst, Lord 69 Arts and crafts (cont.)
main entries. Amoy see Xiamen Miao people 412–13
Amur River 478 modern arts 46–7
5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three An Lushan, General 63 porcelain 260–61
Gorges Dam) 275 An Lushan rebellion 63, 64 silk 214–15
16 Kingdoms 59, 61 Ancestral Hall (Huangyao) 428 traditional arts 44–5
18 September Museum (Shenyang) Ancient Observatory (Beijing) 100– What to Buy in China 589
444 101 see also Craft shops
24 Bends (Tiger Leaping Gorge) 400 Ancient Pottery Factory Arts venues
108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 481 (Jingdezhen) 261 Beijing 119
10,000 Buddhas Monastery (Hong Andi emperor 58 Hong Kong and Macau 338, 339
Kong) 326 Anhui province 183, 208, 209 Shanghai 206–7
food and drink 187 Ashoka 176
A hotels 560 Astana Graves 509
A-Ma Temple (Macau) 334 Huizhou architecture 241 Astrology 49
Aba grasslands 349 map 209 Astronomy, Ancient Observatory
Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) 17, restaurants 577 (Beijing) 100–101
516–17 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) 533 ATMs (Automated Teller Machines)
Abahai 68, 438, 444 Animals 586, 608
tomb 445 astrology 49 Autumn 52–3
Abdur Rahman 495 bites 607 Avian influenza 606–7
Aberdeen 328 see also Wildlife; Zoos Ayurbarwada 58
Aberdeen, Earl of 328 Anjue Lamasery (Kangding) 377
Abu Waqas 305, 307 Annoyances 603 B
Acrobats 119 Anping Lu (Shantou) 302 Ba culture
Acupressure 38 Anshun 406 Chengdu 364
Acupuncture 238 batik 406 Chongqing 356
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) 607 Antique shops 587 Sanxingdui Museum 366
Admission charges 600 Beijing 118, 119 tombs 358
Afghanistan 495 customs information 599 Back Lake (Summer Palace, Beijing)
Agriculture Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 108
desertification 469 Shanghai 206, 207 Badaguan (Qingdao) 153
inventions 42 Anyang 78, 147, 158 Badaling 12, 114
rice 286–7 Aoyu Bei (Huang Shan) 243 Baggage allowances 613
tea plantations 299 Aquariums Bai Causeway (Hangzhou) 249
Ai Weiwei, Dropping a Han Dynasty Beijing Zoo 105 Bai Juyi 34, 249
Urn 46 Sun Asia Ocean World (Dalian) Bai Long Dong (Wudalianchi) 460
Aidi emperor (Tang dynasty) 58 450–51 Bai people 30, 349, 379
Aidi emperor (Western Han Archeology Dali 392
dynasty) 58 Peking Man site 117 hanging coffins 360
AIDS 607 Race for the Silk Road Oases 499 Nanzhao Kingdom 394
Aini people 388, 390, 391 Architecture 40–41 Bai Ta (Anshun) 406
Air pollution 24, 606 Beijing’s courtyard houses 97 Bai Ta (Fuzhou) 298
Air travel 612–15 Dong architecture 427 Bai Ta (Hohhot) 475
advance booking 598 earthen dwellings of Yongding Baidicheng 358
domestic 614–15 290, 296 Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 228
international 612–13 Huizhou architecture 241 Baima Si (Luoyang) 158
Ake people 390 pagodas 171 Baima Ta (Dunhuang) 498
Alcohol 603 Army Day 52 Baisha 14, 398
Alexander the Great 471, 495 Arrow Tower (Jian Lou, Beijing) 88, 90 Baishui Tai 401
Alligators 239 Arrow Towers (Forbidden City) 95 Baisikou Shuang Ta 480
Altay 512 Arrow War (1856-58) 69 Baisui Gong (Jiuhua Shan) 240
Altitude sickness 607 Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 Baita Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou)
Altunluq Mosque (Yarkand) 519 Arts and crafts 488
Alvares, Jorge 333 bamboo 417 Baiyi Si (Lanzhou) 489
Amannisahan, tomb 519 calligraphy 225 Baiyu Hill (Lushun) 451
Ambulances 605 cave paintings of Dunhuang 500– Ballet 47
Amdo 483 501 Bamboo 27, 417
American Express 608–9 jade 519 Bangchuidao Scenic Area 443, 450
Amethyst 224 lacquerware 298 Bank of China (Hong Kong) 316
GENERAL INDEX 623
Bank of China (Shanghai) 193 Beihai 431, 592 Bicycles 594, 621
Banking 608–9 Beijing 79, 84–125 Big Buddha (Lantau Island) 13, 331
Banknotes 609 airport 613, 615 Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang
Banla Village 388 CITS 599 Shan) 253
Banquets 568–9 city walls 90 Bijia Shan 446
Banruo Temple (Changchun) 452 climate 55 Bilian Feng (Yangshuo) 424
Baoding Shan (Dazu) 363 courtyard houses 97 Bingling Si 464, 490
carvings of Dazu 362–3 embassies 605 Bingyu Valley 434, 443, 447
Baofeng Hu (Wulingyuan) 270 entertainment 118–19 Binyang San Dong (Longmen
Baoguang Si 366 Forbidden City 12, 40, 92–5, Caves) 161
Baoguo Si (Emei Shan) 368 438–9 Bird flu 606–7
Baoguo Si (Ningbo) 252 hospitals 605 Birds
Baopu Daoist Compound hotels 558 Bird and Flower Market (Kunming)
(Hangzhou) 246 map 86–7 380
Baoshan 395 in Ming dynasty 67 Bird Island (Qinghai Hu) 503
Baoshu Ta (Hangzhou) 246 Ming Tombs: Chang Ling 110–11 Bird Market (Hong Kong) 323
Baotou 476 Olympic Games 592 Cao Hai 408
“Barbarians” 78 restaurants 572–3 cormorant fishing 424
Bargaining 586, 603 shopping 118–19 cranes 409
Barkhor (Lhasa), street-by-street Street Finder 120–25 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong Kong)
map 534–5 subway 620 339
The Barra (Macau) 13, 334 Summer Palace 12, 106–8 Mai Po Marshes 327
Bars 591 Temple of Heaven 12, 102–3 specialist holidays 595
Beijing 119 Tian’an Men Square street-by- Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Island)
Hong Kong 338, 339 street 88–9 293
Shanghai 207 travel 87 Zhalong Nature Reserve 437, 458
Basketball 592, 595 Two Days in Beijing 10, 12 see also Wildlife
Batik, Anshun 406 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 Birthday of Tin Hau (Hong Kong)
Bayi Park (Nanchang) 256 Beijing Natural History Museum 339
Bayi Square (Nanchang) 256 101 Bishan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Baykal, Lake 441 Beijing and the North 74–177 Bishu Shanzhuang (Chengde)
Bazaar (Turpan) 508 food and drink 82–3 129
Bazi Qiao (Shaoxing) 252 Great Wall of China 112–14 Bita Hai 401
Beaches 592–3 Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 126–45 Bixia Ci (Tai Shan) 150
Beidaihe 134 hotels 558–9 Biyun Temple (Beijing) 109
Dalian 450 map 76–7 Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang) 398
Deep Water and Repulse Bays 329 Portrait of Beijing and the North Black Dragon Pool (Lu Shan) 259
Gangzaihou Beach (Gulangyu 78–9 Black Tiger Spring (Jinan) 148
Island) 293 restaurants 572–5 Bo Gu 263
Hainan Island 311 Shaanxi 166–77 Bo Hai (Bo Sea) 78
Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 Shandong and Henan 146–65 Bo Ya 273
Qingdao 153 travel 76 Boats
Sai Kung Peninsula Beaches (Hong Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 ferries 619
Kong) 326–7 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall Grand Canal 223
Stanley 329 90–91 Li River cruise 422–3
Weihai 155 Beijing Zoo 105 Yangzi cruise 358–9, 360
Yantai 154 Beishan Park (Jilin) 453 Bodhidarma
Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 210 Baoguang Si 366
Beamless Hall (Nanjing) 235, 236 Beiyue Si (Yulong) 398 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an)
Beer Bell Tower (Beijing) 98 168
Tsingtao 147, 152 Bell Tower (Nanjing) 232–3 Guangzhou 304, 305
What to Drink 571 Bell Tower (Pingyao) 145 Shaoguan 309
Begging 603 Bell Tower (Wuwei) 494 Shaolin Boxing 164, 165
Bei Hai Park (Beijing) 74–5, 84, 96 Bell Tower (Xi’an) 169 Body language 602
Bei River 460 Bendiwan 400 Bon religion 524, 526
Bei Shan 363 Bertolucci, Bernardo 452 Book shops, Beijing 118, 119
Beidaihe 134, 593 Bethune, Norman 136 Borjijit, Empress 445
hotels 558 Bezeklik Caves 499, 509 Botanic Gardens (Menglun) 390
restaurants 573 Bhrikuti, Princess 532, 536 Boutiques 587
Beigu Shan (Zhenjiang) 224 Bicycle rickshaws 621 Bouyei people 405, 406
624 GENERAL INDEX
Cloud Dispelling Gate (Summer Courtyard houses, Beijing 97 Dalai Lamas 524, 525
Palace, Beijing) 108 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 Be Hai Park (Beijing) 96
Cloud Dispelling Hall (Summer Coward, Noel 317 exile in India 524
Palace, Beijing) 108 Craft shops Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540
Clubs Beijing 118, 119 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532
Beijing 119 Hong Kong and Macau 336–7 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533
Hong Kong 338, 339 Shanghai 206, 207 Pelkor Chode Monastery (Gyantse)
Shanghai 207 Crafts see Arts and crafts 547
Coasts, landscape, and wildlife Cranes (birds) 409 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 538–9
26–9 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 Samye Monastery 545
Coins 609 Credit cards 586, 608–9 Takten Migyur Podrang (Lhasa)
Cold weather 606 Crescent Moon Lake 466 533
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor 478 Crime 604 Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse)
Communications 610–11 Cruises 619 548–9
Communist Party 23–4, 72 Li River cruise 403, 422–3 Tibetan Oracle 540–41
cult of Mao 268–9 Yangzi cruise 358–9, 360 Yellow Hat Sect 140
Cultural Revolution 70–71 Crystal Palace (Wudalianchi) 460 Dali 10, 14, 348, 349, 379, 392–4
festivals 50, 52 Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) 14, hotels 562
Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 380 map 393
357 Cui Jian 47 pagodas 171, 392–3
Jinggang Shan 263 Cuiheng 308 restaurants 582
and literature 34, 35 Cuiwei Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Dali Museum (Dali) 392
Long March 72, 262–3, 377 Cultural Revolution 70–71, 72, 73 Dali Sutra Pillar (Kunming) 381
Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs and the arts 46 Dalian 437, 443, 450–51
(Shanghai) 205 Chuandixia 117 CITS 599
People’s Republic of China cult of Mao 268–9 hotels 562
founded 72–3 and literature 35 map 451
Shanghai 182 and religion 36 restaurants 583–4
Site of the First National Congress Shanghai 182 Daluo 391
of the Chinese Communist Party in Tibet 525 Damenglong 391
(Shanghai) 200 Culture 25 Daming Hu (Jinan) 148
Zunyi Conference 416 Currency 608–9 Daming Si (Yangzhou) 226
Computer shops, Hong Kong and currency exchange 608 Dance, traditional 591
Macau 336, 337 duty-free allowances 599 Dandong 437, 443, 446–7
Conference Site (Zunyi) 416 Customs see etiquette Danxia Shan 309
Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 217 Customs House (Shanghai) 192 Daode Guan (Zhangye) 494
Confucianism 36, 57 Customs House (Wuhan) 273 Daoguang emperor 59
Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 228 Customs information 599 Daoism 36, 37, 57
Han dynasty 60 Cycling 594, 595, 621 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99
literature 34 Cynical Realism school 46 Eight Immortals 155
Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an)
227 D 167, 170
Confucius 34, 36, 60, 147, 149, 568, Da Hua Miao people 408, 412 Empress of Heaven 155
569 Da Wang Feng 298 Han dynasty 60, 61
birthplace 79, 148–9 Da Xiangguo Si (Kaifeng) 156 Heng Shan 267
Confucius’ s Birthday 52 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Hua Shan 177
Tai Shan 151 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 135 literature 34
and the Yijing 39 Dacang Langmu Gansu Gompa qi 38
Confucius Forest (Qufu) 149 (Langmusi) 486 Qingcheng Shan 374
Confucius Mansion (Qufu) 148–9 Dadonghai 311 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364
Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 Dadu River 262, 377 Song Shan 164
Confucius Temple (Jilin) 453 Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 15, 370–73 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279
Confucius Temple (Qufu) 149 Dafo Si (Shijiazhuang) 136 Tai Shan 150–51
Confucius Temple (Tianjin) 135 Dafo Si (Zhangye) 494 traditional Chinese gardens 184
Consulates 599 Dagobas, 108 (Ningxia) 481 traditional medicine 238
Convention & Exhibition Centre Daguan Pavilion (Lake Dian) 383 White Clouds Temple (Beijing)
(Hong Kong) 316–17 Dai Miao (Tai Shan) 151 104–5
Conversion charts 601 Dai people 30, 347, 389 Wudang Shan 278
Corban Festival 53 Dai Minority Park 388 Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 211
Cormorant fishing 424 Xishuangbanna 389, 390, 391 Datong 127, 137
County Magistrates Residence Daizong emperor 58 hotels 558
(Pingyao) 144 Dakong Shan 395 restaurants 573–4
Courier services 611 Dalai Hu 478 Daur people 460
GENERAL INDEX 627
Garden Tomb of Puhaddin Great Purity Palace (Lao Shan) 153 Guilin 10, 14, 349, 403, 419, 420–21
(Yangzhou) 227 Great Wall of China 2–3, 12, 21, 60, hotels 562
Gardens see Parks and gardens 78, 112–14 Li River cruise 422–3
Gasa 391 Hexi Corridor 483 map 421
Gate of Divine Prowess (Forbidden Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) 447 restaurants 583
City) 95 Jiayuguan Fort 10, 462–3, 496–7 Guiping 428–9
Gate of Heavenly Purity (Forbidden map 113 Guiyang 404–5
City) 40, 94 in Ming dynasty 67, 112–13 map 405
Gate of Supreme Harmony Shanhaiguan 134 restaurants 583
(Forbidden City) 92 Xuanbi Changcheng 494 Guiyuan Si (Wuhan) 273
Gay and lesbian travelers 604–5 Great Wall Museum (Dandong) 447 Guizhou province 348, 349, 403
Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 226 Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan) 16, food and drink 353
Geija Miao people 412, 413, 415 494 hotels 562
Gelanghe 390 Great Wall Museum (Shanhaiguan) map 403
Gelugpa sect see Yellow Hat Sect 134 restaurants 583
Genden Drup 548 Great Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 16, Gulangyu Island 292–3
Genghis Khan 58, 66, 467, 468–9, 477 167, 170, 491 map 293
and Beijing 85 Green Gang 200 Gulong Si (Huanglong Xi) 374
Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum Greeting people 602 Gulou (Yinchuan) 479
(Dongsheng) 476, 477 Grünwedel, Albert 509 Gulou (Zhangye) 494
Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) Gu Hua 267 Gunpowder 43, 64
474 Gu Nan Men (Guilin) 420 Gunzhong Pass 480
Geology, karst 418–19 Gu Shan 298 Guo Xi 226
George III, King of England 439 Guan Yu, General 35, 158, 274 Guoqing Si (Tiantai Shan) 253
German Concession (Qingdao) 152 Guang Wudi emperor 58, 60 Guqin Tai (Wuhan) 273
Gers (yurts) 468–9, 472 Guangdong province 284, 301 Gusong Qiao (Songpan) 375
Ghost City (Xinjiang) 512 hotels 561 Guyuan 473, 480
Ginseng 454 map 301 Gyantse 495, 525, 547
Glacier, Hailou Gou 377 restaurants 579–80
Glossary 654–5 Guanghan Dong 407 H
Gobi Desert 79, 476 Guangji Men (Chaozhou) 302 Ha Noi Ruins (Kashgar) 515
Golden Mile (Hong Kong) 322 Guangji Si (Wuhu) 239 Hai Rui 310
Golden Water (Forbidden City) 92 Guangxi province 348, 349, 403 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 479
Golf 592, 595 food and drink 353 Haidong 394
Golmud 483, 503 hotels 562 Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383
Gong Li 145 map 403 Haikou (Hainan Island) 301, 310
Gongdi emperor 59 restaurants 583 Haila’er 473, 478
Gongga Shan 377 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan Hailou Gou Glacier 377
Gongqing Forest Park (Shanghai) 10, 14 Hainan Coconut Festival 50
201 Guangxiao Si (Guangzhou) 305 Hainan Ferry Port 431
Gongtang Pagoda 487 Guangxu emperor 59, 69, 452 Hainan Island 301, 310–11, 592
Gongyi 164 Beijing Opera 80 hotels 561
Good luck 48–9 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 map 301, 311
Government shops 586 Summer Palace (Beijing) 108 restaurants 579–80
Governor’s Residence (Qingdao) Xi’an 170 Hairy Crab Season 53
152 Guangxu emperor (Beijing) 107 Haitong 371
Grand Canal 223, 224, 226 Guangzhou (Canton) 285, 301, Hakka people 285, 291
map 223 304–7, 596–7 earthen dwellings of Yongding
Grand Dragon Gate (Western Hills) CITS 599 290, 296
383 food and drink 288 Xincun 311
Grape Valley (Turpan) 509 hospitals 605 Hall of Attractive Scenery (Suzhou)
Grapes 510 hotels 561 218
Grasslands, Inner Mongolia 28, 472, map 305 Hall of Benevolence and Longevity
475 restaurants 579 (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107,
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Guangzhou Tower 300 108
“Great Game” 495, 547 Guangzong emperor 59 Hall of Distant Fragrance (Suzhou)
Great Hall of the People (Beijing) 88 Guanlin (Luoyang) 158 213
Great Hall of the People Guanyin 491 Hall of Four Auspicious Merits
(Chongqing) 356–7 Guanyin Colossus (Putuo Shan) (Suzhou) 219
Great Leap Forward 72, 73 254 Hall of Happiness and Longevity
Great Mosque (Hohhot) 474 Guanyin Tang (Dali) 393 (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108
Great Mosque (Kuqa) 513 Gui Shan (Wuhan) 273 Hall of Imperial Peace (Forbidden
Great Mosque (Xi’an) 16, 79, 169 Guia Fort and Lighthouse (Macau) 332 City) 94
630 GENERAL INDEX
Hall of Jade Ripples (Summer Heikong Shan 395 Hong Kong Museum of History
Palace, Beijing) 108 Heilong Jiang 460 322–3
Hall of Mental Cultivation Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) 398 Hong Kong Science Museum 322
(Forbidden City) 95 Heilongjiang province 436, 443 Hong Kong Wetland Park 327
Hall of Middle Harmony (Forbidden hotels 562–3 Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical
City) 93 restaurants 583–4 Gardens 13, 317
Hall of Supreme Harmony skiing 593 Hong Men Gong (Tai Shan) 151
(Forbidden City) 93 Helan Shan 473, 480 Hong Qiao Market (Beijing) 12
Hall of Union (Forbidden City) 94 Henan province 78, 147 Hong Shan Park (Ürümqi) 510
Han Chinese 30 hotels 559 Hong Xiuquan 229, 303, 428, 429
Han dynasty 58, 60–61 map 147 Hongcun 240
porcelain 261 restaurants 574–5 Hongfu Si (Guiyang) 405
Han Jiang estuary 302 Henan Provincial Museum Hongqiao Airport (Shanghai) 613
Han Xiangzi 37 (Zhengzhou) 158 Hongwu emperor 58, 66, 237
Hanafi School, Islam 511 Heng River 137 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 236
Hanging Palace (Cangyan Shan) 136 Heng Shan 137, 265, 267 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232
Hanging Temple (Heng Shan) 127, Hepatitis 607 Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History
137 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong) 326 Museum (Nanjing) 228
Hangzhou 13, 183, 245, 246–51 Heshun 96, 395 tomb 234, 236
food and drink 186 Hetian Regional Museum (Hotan) 519 Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227
hotels 560 Hexi Corridor 483 Winning Chess Pavilion (Nanjing)
map 247 Hezhen people 461 233
restaurants 578 Himalayas 355, 531 Xi’an 168
West Lake 244, 248–51 Everest base camp 525, 550–51 Zhonghua Gate (Nanjing) 230
Hani people 30, 388 Historical Buddha 104, 176, 457, Hongxi emperor 58
Hankou (Wuhan) 273 486, 533, 547 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357
Hanlingyuan Museum (Yangzhou) History 56–73 Hongzhi emperor 58, 260
226 History of the Emperors of China (silk Horses
Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217 painting) 8–9 Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong
Hanwen Gong Ci (Chaozhou) 302 HIV 607 Kong) 317, 338, 339
Hao 167 Hmong people see Miao people horse-racing 52
Haoshang Bridge (Le Shan) 371 Ho, Dr. (Daoist physician) 398 horse-trekking 595
Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong Hohhot 473, 474–5 Mongolian horsemanship 468–9
Kong) 317, 338, 339 hotels 563 Hospitality 602
Harbin 436, 437, 443, 448–9, 456–7 restaurants 584 Hospitals 605
climate 55 Holidays, public 53, 556, 600 Hotan 519
hotels 562–3 Hollywood Road (Hong Kong) 13, 320 Hotels 554–63
map 457 Homosexuality 604–5 advance booking 598
restaurants 584 Hong Kong 178–9, 280–81, 312–31 air-conditioning 606
Harbin Northern Forest Zoo airport 613, 615 bargaining 603
(Harbin) 457 climate 55 Beijing and the North 558–9
Hardoon, Silas 202 entertainment 338–9 booking 555
He Lu, King of Wu 217 film industry 47 Central China 559–61
He Xiangning, tomb of 236 food and drink 289 children in 556–7
He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 history 284, 313 choosing 555
Health 605–7 hospitals 605 costs 555
diseases 606–7 hotels 561 disabled travelers 557
immunization 599, 607 map 314–15 general observations and
stomach upsets and diarrhea 606 the Peak 13, 318–19 precautions 556
Heat 606 public transport 620, 621 hotel chains 554, 557
Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion see restaurants 580–81 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Road
Taiping Rebellion returned to China 73 563
Hebei province 78, 79, 127 shopping 336–7 Northeast China 562–3
hotels 558–9 Street Finder 340–43 restaurants 566
map 127 travel 315 seasonal demand 556
restaurants 573–4 Two Days in Hong Kong 10, 13 security 604
Hebei Provincial Museum visas and passports 598 smoking in 603
(Shijiazhuang) 136 Hong Kong Arts Centre 338 South China 561
Hedi emperor 58, 61 Hong Kong Arts Festival 50 Southwest China 562
Hedin, Sven 499 Hong Kong Cultural Centre 322 Tibet 563
Hefei 239 Hong Kong Disneyland 331, 338, 339 tipping in 557
Hei Ta 391 Hong Kong Life Saving Society 329 Houses
Heihe 460 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322 Beijing’s courtyard houses 97
GENERAL INDEX 631
Houses (cont.) Huli Shan Paotai (Xiamen) 292 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot)
Dai people 389 Hulunbuir grasslands 478 474
Dong architecture 427 Humble Administrator’s Garden Inner Mongolia province 472–81
earthen dwellings of Yongding (Suzhou) 212–13 hotels 563
290, 296 Humidity 606 map 473
Huizhou architecture 241 Hunan First Normal College restaurants 584
HSBC (Hong Kong & Shanghai (Changsha) 266 Insect-borne diseases 607
Banking Corporation), Hunan province 183, 265 Insurance 599, 605
Headquarters (Hong Kong) 39, 316 hotels 560–61 International Fashion Festival 52
Hu Jintao 73 map 265 International Labor Day 51
Hu Qingyu Tang Museum of restaurants 578–9 International Women’s Day 50
Chinese Medicine (Hangzhou) 246 Hunan Provincial Museum Internet access 610
Hu Xueyan 246 (Changsha) 266 Inventions 42–3
Hua Shan 79, 166, 167, 177, 430 Hundred Flowers Movement 73 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 156
Huacheng Si (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Hungry Ghost Festival (Hong Kong) Islam see Muslims and Islam
Huading Peak (Tiantai Shan) 253 339 Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou)
Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 248 Huo Qubing, General 489 306–7
Huai River 209 Huoshao Shan (Wudalianchi) 460 Itineraries
Huai Su 196 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) 447 Two Days in Beijing 10, 12
Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) 305 Huxingting Teahouse (Shanghai) 199 Two Days in Hong Kong 10, 13
Huaiyang cuisine 187 Huxiyan (Xiamen) 292 Two Days in Shanghai 10, 12–13
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Hygiene 605 Two Weeks on the Silk Road 10,
Huandi emperor 58 Hypothermia 606 16–17
Huang Gongwang 45 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan
Huang Shan 209, 242–3 I 10, 14
Huang Shi Zhai (Wulingyuan) 270 Ice sculpture 448–9, 456, 460 A Week in Sichuan and
Huangguoshu Falls 407 Ice and Snow Festival (Harbin) Chongqing 11, 15
Huanghua Cheng 114 448–9 Iyer, Pico 313
Huanglong 354, 375 Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 17, 514
Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan) 271 Ikparhan 516 J
Huanglong Dong Park (Hangzhou) Ili Valley 513 Jade 519
246 Immunization 599, 607 Jade Belt Bridge (Summer Palace,
Huanglong Xi 11, 15, 346, 374 Imperial Gardens (Forbidden City) Beijing) 108
Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 94 Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai) 202
Huangpu River 12, 182, 189, 190, Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 438, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain 386–
201 444 7, 398, 400
Huangyao 428 Imperial Zenith Hall (Forbidden Jade Market (Hong Kong) 323, 336,
Huashi Lou (Qingdao) 153 City) 95 337
Huating Si (Western Hills) 383 Impression West Lake (Hangzhou) Jamyang Choje 540
Huaxi district (Guiyang) 405 246 Japan, occupation of Manchuria 72,
Huayan Si (Datong) 137 Incense Burner Peak (Beijing) 109 437, 443
Hubei province 183, 265 Influenza 606–7 Japanese Germ Warfare
hotels 560–61 Inner Court (Forbidden City) 94 Experimental Base (Harbin) 437,
map 265 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Road 457
restaurants 578–9 462–519 Japanese-Russian Prison (Lushun) 451
Hubei Provincial Museum (Wuhan) food and drink 83 Jar Hill Observation Platform (Three
272 Gansu and Qinghai 482–505 Gorges Dam) 275
Huguo Lu (Dali) 392 Genghis Khan 477 Jardine Matheson 203
Hui Li 247 grasslands 28, 475 Jesuits
Hui Neng 305 hotels 563 astronomy 100
Hui people 31, 466, 473 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia 472– Manchu dynasty 439
Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 81 Ming dynasty 67
food and drink 83 Jiayuguan Fort 462–3, 496–7 Qing dynasty 68
Islam 511 Maiji Shan 16, 484–5 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau) 332
Weining 408 maps 464–5, 473 Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109
Hui’an people 283, 285, 297 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 Jet Li 165
Huidi emperor 58 Portrait of Inner Mongolia and the Jewelry shops, Hong Kong and
Hui’e, legend of 255 Silk Road 466–7 Macau 336, 337
Huihe 164 restaurants 584–5 Jewish Refugee Museum (Shanghai)
Huiji Si (Putuo Shan) 255 Silk Road 470–71 204
Huizhou architecture 241 The Spread of Buddhism 491 Jews, in Kaifeng 156, 157
Huizong emperor 59, 65 Trans Mongolian Railway 441 Jiajing emperor 58
Hukeng 296 Xinjiang 506–19 Jialing River 356
632 GENERAL INDEX
Jian Lou (Arrow Tower, Beijing) 88, 90 Jinjiang Hotel (Shanghai) 200 Kegong Fang (Lijiang) 396
Jian Zhen 226 Jinmao Tower (Shanghai) 12, 195 Kelsang Potrang (Lhasa) 533
Jianfeng Chi (Stone Forest) 385 Jinsha Museum (Chengdu) 365 Khaishan 58
Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311 Jinsuo Dao 394 Khampa people 377
Jianfu Gong (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Jintian 428, 429 Khi Vehdu 202
Jiang Qing 71 Jinzhou 446 Khoshila 58
Jiang Zemin 73, 227 Jitang 427 Khunjerab Pass 518
Jiangsu province 183, 209 Jiuhua Shan 180, 209, 240 King of Borneo’s Tomb (Nanjing) 237
hotels 560 Jiujiang 258 Kipling, Rudyard 495
map 209 Jiulong Bi (Datong) 137 Kite-flying 591
restaurants 577 Jiuzhai Gou 15, 355 festivals 50
Jiangxi province 245 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Kizil 513
hotels 560 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 522, 525, Knives, Yengisar Country Small Knife
map 245 534, 536–7 Factory 518
Nanchang Uprising 183 Jue Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Kodari 551
restaurants 578 Jumbo Floating Restaurant Kong family 149
Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 (Aberdeen) 328 Kongtong Shan 490
Jianshan Si (Yangshuo) 424–5 Jungle 29 Kongzhong Tianyuan (Wulingyuan)
Jianwen emperor 58 Southwest China 351 270
Jiao Shan 134, 224 Wangtianshu Aerial Walkway Korea 443, 446–7
Jiaohe Ruins (Turpan) 10, 17, 508 (Mengla) 390 Kotnis, Dwarkanath 136
Jiaqing emperor 59 Xishuangbanna 390, 391 Kowloon 284, 312, 313
Jiaxiu Lou (Guiyang) 404 Junshan Dao 267 map 315
Jiayin Hall (Tongli) 222 Justinian, Emperor 214 see also Hong Kong
Jiayuguan 16, 483, 494 Juyong Guan 114 Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) 292,
Jiayuguan Fort 10, 16, 462–3, 293
496–7 K Koxinga Memorial Hall (Gulang Yu)
Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370 Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden 293
Jile Si (Harbin) 435, 457 327, 338–9 Kublai Khan 58, 66, 348, 394, 398,
Jilin 453 Kaifeng 78, 147, 156–7, 159 469
Jilin province 436, 443 map 157 Beijing 79, 90, 96
hotels 562–3 Kaili 403, 414 and Chinese cuisine 82
restaurants 583–4 Kaishu calligraphy 33 Dongxiang people 488
skiing 593 Kaiyuan Si (Chaozhou) 302 Sakya Monastery 550
Jimei School Village (Xiamen) 292 Kaiyuan Si (Quanzhou) 297 Xanadu 478
Jin Bian Yan (Wulingyuan) 270 Kanas Lake Nature Reserve 512 Kuixing Tower (Pingyao) 145
Jin Dian (Kunming) 382 Kang Mei Yuan Chao Zhanzheng Kumarajiva 498, 513
Jin Ding Si (Emei Shan) 369 (Dandong) 447 Kumbum (Gyantse) 525, 547
Jin dynasty 58, 64, 65 Kangding 377 Kumbum Monastery see Ta’er Si
Jin Qiaojue 240 Kangxi emperor 59, 68, 128, 438 Kundulun (Baotou) 476
Jin Qu Xi 294–5, 298 Baoguang Si 366 Kung, H. H. 193, 204
Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224 Chengde 128 Kung, Prince, Prince Kung’s Mansion
Jinan 148 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 (Beijing) 12, 96, 119
hotels 559 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Kung Fu 164, 165, 594
restaurants 574 Forbidden City 95 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279
Jinci Si (Taiyuan) 143 Marco Polo Bridge 116 Kunming 10, 14, 379, 380–83
Jindian Gong (Wudang Shan) 278 Karakoram Highway 518 climate 54
Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Karakoram Mountains 507 hotels 562
Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Karaoke 591 map 381
Jingang Palace (Lanzhou) 489 Kargilik 519 Muslim Uprising 348
Jingdezhen 183, 245, 261 Karma Phuntso Namgyel 548 restaurants 583
Jingdi emperor 58 Karmapa (Black Hats) order 546 Kunming Lake 85
Jinggang Shan 245, 263 Karst 418–19 Kuomintang (KMT) 72
Long March 263 Yangshuo 424, 425 and the Long March 262
Jinghong 347, 388 Karst Caves (Yixing county) 224 Kuqa 10, 17, 513
Jingjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin) Kashgar 10, 17, 507, 514–17 Kwan Yu 321
421 Aba Khoja Mausoleum 516–17 Kyrgyz people 511
Jingpo Hu 437, 443, 458 hotels 563 Kyrgyzstan 507
Jingtai emperor 58 map 515
Jingzhen 390 restaurants 585 L
Jingzhou 274 Kashgaria 495, 507, 513, 514 Labor Park (Dalian) 450
Jingzong emperor 58 Kazakhs 30, 510, 511 Labrang Monastery 16, 467, 483,
Jinhua Cha Gardens (Nanning) 429 Kazakhstan 507 486, 487
GENERAL INDEX 633
Labrang Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 Lhasa (cont.) Long Lake (Jiuzhai Gou) 376
Lacquerware 298 Potala Palace 523, 525, 538–9 Long March 72, 183, 262–3, 348
Laifeng Monastery (Tengchong) restaurants 585 Luding Chain Bridge 377
395 Li Bai 34, 62, 64 Zunyi Conference 416
Laifeng Shan Park (Tengchong) 395 Qutang Gorge 359 Longevity Hill (Summer Palace,
Lama Temple (Beijing) 79, 98–9 tomb of 239 Beijing) 106, 108
Lamaism 140 Li Bing 374 Longgong Dong 406–7
Wudang Zhao 476 Li Cang, Marquis of Dai 266 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs
Lamma Fisherfolk’s Village (Lamma Li Chun 136 (Shanghai) 205
Island) 330 Li Guangxiu 382 Longhua Temple (Shanghai) 205
Lamma Island 13, 330 Li people 31, 285, 301, 310 Longji Titian 426
Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong) 320 Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall (Jinan) Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 246
Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 148 Longmen Caves 79, 146, 147, 160–63
Lan Ting (Shaoxing) 252 Li River 348, 349 Longqing emperor 58
The Landmark (Hong Kong) 316 at Guilin 420 Longquan Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Landscape 26–9 karst landscape 418 Longrui Nature Preserve 430
karst 418–19 Li River cruise 14, 403, 422–3 Longshan culture 57
Lang Mei Xian Ci (Wudang Shan) 278 Li Xiu-cheng 210 Longsheng 14, 426
Langde 414 Li Zhisui 269 Longtan Village 425
Langmusi 486 Lianfeng-shan Park (Beidaihe) 134 Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157
Language and script 24–5, 32–3, Liao Bingxiong 307 Longwu Si (Tongren) 502
600 Liao dynasty 58, 64 Longzhu Ge (Jingdezhen) 261
Cantonese 285 Liao Zhongkai, tomb 236 Lord Bao Memorial Hall (Hefei) 239
phrase book 656–60 Liaoning province 436, 443, 444 Lotus Flower Cave (Longmen Caves)
Zhuang people 430 hotels 562–3 161
Lantau Island 13, 330–31 restaurants 583–4 Lovers’ Festival 52
map 330–31 Liberation Monument (Chonqing) Lowland landscape and wildlife 29
Lantau Peak 331 356 Lu, Y. C. 236
Lantern Festival 50 Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247 Lu Shan 245, 258–9
Lanzhou 16, 466, 483, 488–9 Lijiang 10, 14, 349, 379, 396–8, 399 Long March 262
hotels 563 hotels 562 Lu Su, tomb of 273
map 488–9 restaurants 583 Lu Xun 35, 204
restaurants 585 street-by-street map 396–7 Former Residence (Shanghai)
Lao Hei Shan (Wudalianchi) 460 Limestone, karst 418–19 204
Lao Long Tou 134 Lin Biao 71 Former Residence (Shaoxing) 252
Lao Shan 153 Lin Mo 155 tomb (Shanhai) 204
Laojun Ge (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Lin Zexu 298 Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204
Laojun Yan (Quanzhou) 297 Lin Zexu Memorial Hall (Fuzhou) 298 Lu Yu 299
Laos 379, 390 Lingdi emperor 58 Luck and prosperity 48–9
Laozi 36, 37 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235, 236 Ludi Yan (Guilin) 421
Laojun Yan (Quanzhou) 297 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 236 Luding 377
Luoyang 158 Lingshui 310 Luding Chain Bridge 262, 377
Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364 Lingyin Si (Hangzhou) 247 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532
Largo do Lilau (Macau) 334 Lingyun Ting (Zhenjiang) 224 Lunar calendar 50, 601
Largo do Senado (Macau) 13, 333 Linxia 488 Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail (Hong
Later Jin dynasty 68 Lishu calligraphy 33 Kong) 327
Le Coq, Albert von 499, 509 Literature 34–5 Luo Yue people 430
Le Shan 355 customs information 599 Luohan Hall (Baoguang Si) 366
Dafo 11, 15, 349, 370–73 Little, Edward 258 Luohan Si (Chongqing) 356
Lee, Bruce 165, 308 Little Red Book (Mao Zedong) 268 Luohou Si (Wutai Shan) 140
Legalism 57, 60 “Little eats” 567 Luomen 486
Lei Shan 414 Liu Bei, tomb 365 Luoshi Ta (Wuwei) 494
Leigong Shan 414 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Luoyang 78, 147, 158
Leitai Si (Wuwei) 494 Liu Shaoqi 71 hotels 559
Lenin, V. I. 105 Liu Xu, tomb 226 restaurants 574
Lesbian travelers 604–5 Liu Yazi 222 Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) 158
Lhasa 503, 525, 532–41 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Lushun 437, 451
The Barkhor street-by-street 534–5 Liubiju (Beijing) 91 Lutheran Church (Qingdao) 152
climate 54 Liugong Island 155
exploring around Lhasa 540–41 Liulichang (Beijing) 91 M
hotels 563 Lizong emperor 59 Macartney, Lord 68, 69, 439
Jokhang Temple 525, 534, 536–7 Long Corridor (Summer Palace, Macau 13, 332–5
map 532–3 Beijing) 107, 108 airport 613
634 GENERAL INDEX
Motorcycle taxis 621 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Mountaineering 594–5 Dali Museum (Dali) 392 Military Museum of the Chinese
Mountains Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 People’s Revolution (Beijing) 105
Cangyan Shan 136 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage Minorities Museum (Kaili) 414
Changbai Shan 454–5 (Chengdu) 364 MOCA Shanghai 194, 195
Emei Shan 355, 368–9 Dunhuang City Museum Municipal Museum (Guangzhou)
Fenghuang Shan 447 (Dunhuang) 498 307
Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 509 Folklore Museum (Zunyi) 416 Museum of the 1895 Sino-
Helan Shan 480 Forest of Stelae (Beilin) Museum Japanese War (Weihai) 155
Heng Shan 137, 267 (Xi’an) 168 Museum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen
Hua Shan 79, 166, 167, 177 Former Residence of Zhou Enlai (Nanjing) 235, 236
Huang Shan 209, 242–3 (Shanghai) 200 Museum of Naxi Culture (Lijiang)
Jinggang Shan 245, 263 Fujian Museum (Fuzhou) 298 398
Jiuhua Shan 180, 209, 240 Furniture Museum (Pingyao) 144 Museum of Opera and Theater
Karakoram Mountains 507, 518 Gansu Provincial Museum (Suzhou) 211
landscape and wildlife 26 (Lanzhou) 16, 489 Museum to Commemorate Aiding
Lao Shan 153 Great Wall Museum (Dandong) 447 Korea & Resisting America
Lu Shan 258–9 Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan) 494 (Dandong) 447
Maiji Shan 484–5 Great Wall Museum (Shanhaiguan) Museum of Yin Ruins (Anyang) 158
Ming Shan 358 16, 134 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232
Pamir Mountains 495, 514, 518 Hanlingyuan Museum (Yangzhou) National Art Museum of China
The Peak (Hong Kong) 318–19 226 (Beijing) 100
Purple Mountain (Nanjing) 234–7 Hebei Provincial Museum National Museum of China
Putuo Shan 245, 254–5 (Shijiazhuang) 136 (Beijing) 89, 90
Qilian Shan 494 Henan Provincial Museum Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Shan
Qixia Shan 246 (Zhengzhou) 158 City) 310
Song Shan 147, 164 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong) 326 Ningxia Provincial Museum
Southwest China 350 Hetian Regional Museum (Hotan) (Yinchuan) 479
Tai Mo Shan 327 519 Overseas Chinese Museum
Tai Shan 78, 79, 147, 150–51 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322 (Xiamen) 292
Tian Shan 507 Hong Kong Museum of History Palace Museum (Forbidden City,
Tiantai Shan 253 322–3 Beijing) 92–5
Wudang Shan 265, 278 Hong Kong Science Museum 322 Peasant Movement Institute
Wulingyuan 270–71 Hu Qingyu Tang Museum of (Guangzhou) 304
Wutai Shan 127, 140–42 Chinese Medicine (Hangzhou) 246 Porcelain Museum (Jingdezhen)
Wuyi Shan 291, 294–5, 298 Hubei Provincial Museum 261
Wuzhi Shan 310 (Wuhan) 272 Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing) 224
Yandang Shan 245, 253 Hunan Provincial Museum Provincial Museum (Guiyang) 404
Yulong Xue Shan 398 (Changsha) 266 Provincial Museum (Harbin) 456
Zhuque Shan 453 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) Provincial Museum (Hefei) 239
Moxi Xiang 377 474 Provincial Museum (Kunming) 380
Mu Fu (Lijiang) 398 Jewish Refugee Museum Provincial Museum (Nanchang) 257
Mudan River 458 (Shanghai) 204 Provincial Museum (Nanning) 429
Mudanjiang 458 Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370 Provincial Museum (Wuwei) 494
Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 194 Jingzhou Museum 274 Qingdao Museum 152–3
Mui Wo 331 Jinsha Museum (Chengdu) 365 Quanzhou Maritime Museum 297
Mukden see Shenyang Lu Xun’s Former Residence Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101
Murphy, Henry 235 (Shanghai) 204 Revolutionary Museum
Murray House (Stanley) 329 Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) (Nanchang) 256
Museums and galleries 158 Rishenchang (Pingyao) 144
admission charges 600 Macau Museum (Macau) 13, 332 Sanxingdui Museum 11, 15, 366
18 September Museum Mao Zedong Memorial Museum Shaanxi History Museum (Xi’an)
(Shenyang) 444 (Shao Shan) 266 16, 167, 172–3
Ancient Observatory (Beijing) Mao’s Family House (Shao Shan) 266 Shandong Provincial Museum
100–101 Maritime Museum (Macau) 334 (Jinan) 148
Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 Meiyuan Xincun (Nanjing) 232 Shanghai Art Museum 194, 195
Beijing Natural History Museum 101 Memorial Hall to the Martyrs of Shanghai History Museum 195
Capital Museum (Beijing) 101 the Revolution (Nanchang) 256 Shanghai Museum 12–13, 189,
Ceramic History Exposition Memorial Hall of the Victoms in 196–7, 206, 207
(Jingdezhen) 261 Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Shanxi Provincial Museum
China House Museum (Tianjin) 135 Invaders (Nanjing) 237 (Taiyuan) 143
City Museum (Kunming) 381 Meteorite Shower Museum (Jilin) Sichuan Museum (Chengdu)
City Museum (Lanzhou) 489 453 365
GENERAL INDEX 637
Museums and galleries (cont.) Muslims and Islam (cont.) Nationalist Party see Kuomintang
Site of the First National Congress Muslim Uprising (1856) 348 (KMT)
of the Chinese Communist Party in Xinjiang 507 Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Shan
(Shanghai) 200 see also Mosques City) 310
Soong Qingling’s Former Mutianyu 114 Nature reserves
Residence (Shanghai) 204–5 Muzong emperor 58 Changbai Shan Reserve 443, 454–5
Stilwell Museum (Chongqing) 357 Myanmar 379, 390–91, 395 Chishui 416
Sun Yat-sen Memorial Residence Everest Base Camp 550
(Shanghai) 13, 200 N Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311
Sun Yat-sen’s Residence (Cuiheng) Nadaam Fair 52, 469 Kanas Lake Nature Reserve 512
308 Nagpu Horse Race Festival 52 Longrui Nature Preserve 430
Suzhou Museum (Suzhou) 210 Namtso Lake 525, 530, 546–7 Mengda Nature Reserve 503
Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) 210 Nan Putuo Si (Xiamen) 282, 292 Shennongjia Forest Reserve 183,
Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Nan Yue Palace Gardens 265, 278
Museum (Nanjing) 228 (Guangzhou) 304 Wanglang Nature Reserve 355, 375
Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) 306 Wulingyuan 270–71
Three Gorges Museum Nanchan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Zhalong Nature Reserve 409, 437,
(Chongqing) 356 Nanchang 245, 256–7 443, 458
Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao) 145 hotels 560 Naxi kingdom 379
Tibet Museum (Lhasa) 533 map 257 Naxi people 30, 349, 399
Tujia Museum (Furongzhen) 267 restaurants 578 Lijiang 398
Turpan Museum (Turpan) 508 Nanchang Uprising (1927) 183 Nechung Monastery (Lhasa) 540–41
Wang Shi Xiao Yuan (Yangzhou) Nanguan Mosque (Linxia) 488 Nengren Si (Jiujiang) 258
227 Nanguan Mosque (Yinchuan) 479 Neolithic period 57, 78
Wen Miao (Wuwei) 494 Nanhua Si (Shaoguan) 309 Nepal border 550, 551
Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Nanjing 183, 209, 228–37 Nestorian Christianity 168, 471, 509
Wuxi Museum (Wuxi) 222 food and drink 186 New Territories 327
Xi’an Museum 170 hotels 560 New Year
Xianyang City Museum (Xianyang) map 229 Chinese 48, 53
176 Purple Mountain 234–7 Tibetan 50
Xinjiang Provincial Museum restaurants 577 Western 53
(Ürümqi) 17, 510 Taiping Rebellion 428 Newspapers 611
Yan’an Revolutionary Museum Treaty of 69, 189 Ngong Ping (Lantau Island) 330–31
(Yan’an) 177 Zhonghua Gate 230–31 Night Market (Beijing) 100
Yangzhou Museum (Yangzhou) 226 Nanjing Massacre (1937) 233 Nightclubs
Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Memorial (Purple Mountain) 237 Beijing 119
Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) 364 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232 Hong Kong 338, 339
Zhenjiang Museum (Zhenjiang) 224 Nanjing Road (Shanghai) 12, 194 Shanghai 207
Zigong Salt Museum (Zigong) 361 Nanjing Yangzi River Bridge Nine Dragon Screen (Bei Hai Park) 96
Music 46 (Nanjing) 233 Nine Dragon Screen (Forbidden
Beijing Opera 80–81, 119 Nanking see Nanjing City) 95
discos and karaoke 591 Nanking Road (Shanghai) 203 Nine Horse Fresco Hill 422
Dongson drums 429, 430 Nanmao Jie (Riuli) 395 Ningbo 245, 252
festivals 53 Nanning 429 Ningxia province 466, 467, 473
Hong Kong and Macau 338, 339 hotels 562 hotels 563
musical instruments 81, 429 Nanping 240 map 473
rock and pop music 591 Nanshan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 restaurants 584
Shanghai 206, 207 Nanwu Chaoxi Si (Huanglong Xi) 374 Ningxia Provincial Museum
Sichuan opera 366 Nanyan Gong (Wudang Shan) 278 (Yinchuan) 479
traditional music 591 Nanyue 267 Ningzong emperor 59
Muslims and Islam 511 Nanyue Damiao (Heng Shan) 267 Nixon, Richard 73, 292
Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) Nanzhao Kingdom 348, 380, 394 No. 1 Department Store (Shanghai)
516–17 Nathan Road (Hong Kong) 322, 336 206, 207
Arab traders 284 National Art Museum of China Nomads 528–9
Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 (Beijing) 100 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9
food and drink 83 National Center for Performing Arts Tibet 525
Garden Tomb of Puhaddin (Beijing) 118, 119 Noonday Gun (Hong Kong) 317
(Yangzhou) 227 National Day 53, 303 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533
Great Mosque (Xi’an) 169 National Museum of China (Beijing) North Korea 443, 446–7
Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) 89, 90 North Pagoda (Shenyang) 444
305 National Olympic Stadium (Beijing) North Tomb (Shenyang) 445
Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) 117 Northeast China 432–61
306–7 National Theater (Beijing) 47 Changbai Shan 454–5
638 GENERAL INDEX
Parks and gardens (cont.) Parks and gardens (cont.) Ping An 14, 426
Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383 Wuquan Shan Gongyuan Pingdi emperor 58
He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 (Lanzhou) 489 Pingliang 490
Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) 398 Xi Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Pingxiang 430–31
Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Pingyao 41, 127, 144–5
Gardens 13, 317 Xiaoyaijin Park (Hefei) 239 restaurants 574
Hong Shan Park (Ürümqi) 510 Xihui Park (Wuxi) 222 Pinyin script 33, 600
Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 248 Xinglong Tropical Botanical Plants 26–9
Huanglong Dong Park Gardens 310 bamboo 417
(Hangzhou) 246 Xu Yuan (Nanjing) 229 ginseng 454
Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 Xuanwu Lake (Nanjing) 232 plant hunters 351
Humble Administrator’s Garden Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 Southwest China 350–51
(Suzhou) 212–13 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 see also Parks and gardens
Imperial Gardens (Forbidden City) Yu Gardens and Bazaar (Shanghai) Plum Blossom Hill (Purple
94 12, 198–9 Mountain) 236
Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of Perfect Plum Monastery (Zhaoqing) 308
Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224 Brightness, Beijing) 109, 439 Po Lin Monastery (Lantau Island)
Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307 330–1
Jinhua Cha Gardens (Nanning) 429 Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154 “Pockmarked Huang” 200, 203
Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237 Poetry, Tang 34
327, 338–9 Zhaolin Park (Harbin) 456 Pok Fu Lam Reservoir (Hong Kong)
Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 Passports 598–9 318
Lianfeng-shan Park (Beidaihe) 134 security 604 Police 604, 605
Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Past Buddha 527 Politics 23–4
Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157 Pavilion Bridge (West Lake, Pollution 24, 606
Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204 Hangzhou) 250–51 Polo, Marco 66, 249, 471
Manting Park (Jinghong) 388 Pavilion of a Thousand Autumns in Fuzhou 298
Martyrs’ Park (Changsha) 266 (Forbidden City) 94 in Hangzhou 246
Mei Yuan (Tai Hu) 222 The Peak (Hong Kong) 13, 318–19 Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304
Nan Yue Palace Gardens Peak Tower (Hong Kong) 319 Marco Polo Bridge 116
(Guangzhou) 304 Peak Tram (Hong Kong) 319 Yangzi River 182
Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 Pearl River 284, 301 Pop music 591
Old Racecourse (Shanghai) 195, 203 Mai Po Marshes 327 Porcelain see Ceramics
Orchid Garden (Guangzhou) Pearl-Beach Falls 376 Port Arthur see Lushun
306–7 Peasant Movement Institute Portugal
Ou Yuan (Suzhou) 210 (Guangzhou) 304 food and drink in Macau 335
Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) Pei, I.M. 210, 316 and Macau 284, 313, 332
218–19 Peking Man site 117 Postal services 610–11
People’s Park (Shanghai) 12, 194 Pelkor Chode Monastery (Gyantse) Poste restante 610–11
Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) 405 547 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 523, 525,
Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420 Pelliot, Paul 499 538–9
Renmin Park (Chengdu) 364 Peng Dehui 259 Pottery see Ceramics
Renmin Park (Nanning) 429 Penglai Ge 155 Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing)
Shamian Park (Shamian Island) 306 Penholder Peak (Li River) 423 224
Shizi Lin (Suzhou) 210 Penjing 185 Pousada São Tiago (Macau) 334
Shou Xi Hu (Yangzhou) 226 Peoples of China 30–31 Poyang Hu 245
Shuzhuang Garden (Gulangyu see also Ethnic minorities Praia Grande (Macau) 333
Island) 293 People’s Hall (Lu Shan) 259 Precious Clouds Pavilion (Summer
Stalin Park (Harbin) 456 People’s Liberation Army (PLA), Palace, Beijing) 108
Summer Palace (Beijing) 106–8 Cultural Revolution 70, 71 Prescription Cave (Longmen Caves)
Sun Island Park (Harbin) 456 People’s Park and Square (Shanghai) 161
Tiger Hill (Suzhou) 217 12, 194 Prescription drugs 605
Tropical Botanical Gardens Period of Disunity 59 Prince Kung’s Mansion (Beijing) 12,
(Xishuangbanna) 350 Permits 599 96, 119
Tropical Flower and Plant Garden Personal security 604–5 Printing 43
(Jinghong) 388 Phagpa 550 Prosperity 48–9
Tuisi Yuan (Tongli) 222 Pharmacies 605 Provincial museums see Museums
Victoria Park (Hong Kong) 317 Philosophy 36–7 and galleries
Victoria Peak Garden (Hong Kong) qi 38–9 Pu Songling 153
318 Photography 601 Pu Yi, Emperor 59, 69, 72, 452
Wangshi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 etiquette 602 abdication 95
Wanshi Botanical Garden (Xiamen) Phrase book 656–60 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109
292 Pileguo 394 and Manchukuo 437, 443, 452
640 GENERAL INDEX
Pu Yi, Emperor (cont.) Qiji Futu Pagoda (Harbin) 457 Rail travel (cont.)
Puppet Emperor’s Palace Qilian Shan 494 airport links 615
(Changchun) 437, 452 Qin dynasty 59, 60 Golmud to Lhasa 503, 525
tomb 115 Qin Shi Huangdi emperor 59, 60, tours 593
Public holidays 53, 556, 600 151, 167 train spotting 593
Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599, 604 and Confucius 149 Trans-Siberian Railway 440–41
Public toilets 605 Great Wall of China 112 Railway Station (Lushun) 451
Pubs Heng Shan 137 Rainforest 390
Beijing 119 Penglai 155 Ramoche (Lhasa) 532
Hong Kong 338, 339 Terracotta Army 60, 78, 167, 174–5 Red Army
Pudong (Shanghai) 21, 182, 189, tomb 175 cult of Mao 268
193, 195 Qing dynasty 59, 68–9 Long March 72, 262, 377
Puhaddin, Garden Tomb of Beijing 79, 85 Nanchang Uprising 183
Puhaddin (Yangzhou) 227 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Red Army Political Department
Puji Si (Putuo Shan) 254 literature 34, 35 (Zunyi) 416
Pule Si (Chengde) 129 Manchu dynasty 438–9 Red Basin 355
Puning Si (Chengde) 40, 129, 130–31 porcelain 261 Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101
Puntsok Palace 550 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106 Red Guard 70
Puppet Emperor’s Palace Taiping Rebellion 228 Red Palace (Lhasa) 538, 539
(Changchun) 437, 452 Qing Ming Festival 50 Red Turbans 66
Puppet theater 591 Qing Teng Shu Wu (Shaoxing) 252 Reform Movement 69
Purple Mountain (Nanjing) 234–7 Qingcheng Shan 374 Rehai 395
Pusa Ding (Wutai Shan) 141 Qingdao 79, 147, 152–3, 593 Religion 25, 36–7
Putonghua (Chinese language) 32 hotels 559 festivals 50
Putonghua (Chinese language) map 152–3 see also Buddhism; Christianity;
600 restaurants 574–5 Muslims and Islam
Putuo Shan 181, 245, 254–5 Qingdao International Beer Festival 52 Renmin Park (Chengdu) 364
Putuozongcheng Miao (Chengde) Qingdao Museum (Qingdao) Renmin Park (Nanning) 429
128 152–3 Renmin Square (Dalian) 450
Puzhao Si (Tai Shan) 150 Qinghai Hu 465, 467, 483, 503 Renzong emperor 59
Qinghai province 466, 467, 483 Repulse Bay 329
Q hotels 563 Resonant Sand Gorge 476
Qi 38–9 map 483 Responsible tourism 595
traditional medicine 238 restaurants 584–5 Restaurants 564–85
Qi Fo Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Qingjing Mosque (Quanzhou) 297 air-conditioning 606
Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 Qingning Palace (Shenyang) 444 bargaining 603
Qian Ling (Xi’an) 176 Qingping Market (Guangzhou) 304 Beijing and the North 572–5
Qian Men (Beijing) 12, 88, 90 Qingshan (Baotou) 476 Central China 575–9
Qiang people 377 Qingyang 405 customs and etiquette 568–9
Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) 405 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 349, 364 ethnic food 567
Qianlong emperor 59, 68, 128, 438, Qingyin Ge (Emei Shan) 369 etiquette 602
439 Qingyuan 309 fast food 567
Baoguang Si 366 Qingyuan Shan 297 in hotels 566
Beijing Opera 80 Qinian Dian (Beijing) 102 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Road
Chengde 129 Qinzong emperor 59, 65 584–5
Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Qiongzhong 310 Northeast China 583–4
food customs and etiquette 569 Qiongzhu Si (Kunming) 382 opening hours 566
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Qixia Shan (Hangzhou) 246 service charges 603
Marco Polo Bridge 116 Qixia Si (Nanjing) 237 smoking in 603
Prince Kung’s Mansion (Beijing) Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420 Southern China 579–81
96 Qixing Yan 308 Southwest China 581–3
Puning Si (Chengde) 130 Qu Yuan 51 themed restaurants 567
Summer Palace (Beijing) 106 Quanzhou 291, 297 Tibet 585
and Xiangfei 516 Quanzhou Maritime Museum 297 tipping in 569
Yangzhou 226 Quartel dos Mouros (Macau) 334 types of 566–7
Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109, 439 Qufu 79, 148–9 vegetarian food 567
Qianming Si (Guiyang) 404 Qutang Xia 359 Western restaurants 567
Qiantang River 248 see also Food and drink
Qianxun Ta (Dali) 392 R Restrooms 605
Qiao Guifa 145 Rabies 607 Retreat in the Qingbian Mountain
Qiao Jia Dayuan 145 Radio 611 (Wang Meng) 197
Qidan people 64 Rail travel 616–17 Revolutionary Museum (Nanchang)
Qigong 38 advance booking 598 256
GENERAL INDEX 641
Tang dynasty 58, 62–4, 78–9, 167 Temples (cont.) Three Gorges 11, 15, 276–7, 349,
Buddhism 491 Ramoche (Lhasa) 532 355, 358–9
poetry 34 Shaolin Temple 147, 164, 165 Three Gorges Dam 15, 73, 182,
porcelain 261 Shuanglin Si 145 265, 274–5, 358–60
Tangkou 242 Ta’er Si 504–5 Three Gorges Museum
Tangyue 240 Tai Shan 150–51 (Chongqing) 356
Tanzhe Temple 116 Tanzhe Temple 116 Yangzi cruise 349, 358–9, 360
Tao Qian 37 Temple of Heaven (Beijing) 12, 76, Three Lanes and Seven Alleys
Tara Chapel (Lhasa) 540 102–3 (Fuzhou) 298
Tashi Dor 547 White Clouds Temple (Beijing) Three Pools Reflecting the Moon
Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) 104–5 (Hangzhou) 248
548–9 White Tower Temple (Beijing) Tian Chi 17, 435, 443, 454, 455, 506,
Tashkurgan 518 105 507, 510
Tatars 511 Wong Tai Sin Temple (Hong Kong) Tian Shan 467, 507
Taxes, air travel 613 323 Tian Tan (Temple of Heaven, Beijing)
Taxis Wutai Shan 140–42 76, 102–3
airport 613, 615 Xilitu Zhao (Hohhot) 474–5 Tian’an Men (Beijing), street-by-
in cities 621 see also individual towns and cities street map 89
Tayuan Si (Wutai Shan) 140 Temur Oljeitu 58 Tian’an Men Square (Beijing) 12
Tea 285, 299 Ten Kingdoms 58, 64 street-by-street map 88–9
Guiping 428 Ten Thousand Buddha Cave suppression of democracy
Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 246 (Longmen Caves) 161 movement 73
Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Teng Wang Pavilion (Nanchang) Tianchao Gong (Nanjing) 229
What to Drink 570 256–7 Tianhou (Empress of Heaven) 155
Teachers’ Day 52 Tengchong 395 Tianhou Gong (Shantou) 302
Teahouses, Beijing 119 Tengger Desert 480 Tianhou Temple (Tianjin) 135
Teatro Dom Pedro V (Macau) 334 Tennis 592, 595 Tianjin 79, 135
Telephones 610 Terrace for Watching the Sunrise food and drink 83
dialing codes 611 (Heng Shan) 267 hotels 559
Television 611 Terracotta Army 10, 16, 60, 78, 167, map 135
Temple Street Market (Hong Kong) 174–5 restaurants 574
13, 323, 336, 337 Textiles Tianjin Eye 135
Temples Beijing shops 118, 119 Tianjin province 127
admission charges 600 Shanghai shops 206, 207 hotels 558–9
etiquette 602 silk 214–15 map 127
A-Ma Temple (Macau) 334 Silk Embroidery Research Institute restaurants 573–4
Baoguang Si 366 (Suzhou) 216 Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao) 145
Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 217 Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) 210 Tianlong Shan Grottoes (Taiyuan)
Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 What to Buy in China 589 143
Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Thangkas 540 Tianlong Tiankeng 360
Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 Theater 47 Tianning Si (Changzhou) 224
Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an) Beijing 118, 119 Tianqi emperor 58
167, 170 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 Tiansheng Sanqiao 360
Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 Hong Kong and Macau 338, 339 Tianshi Dong (Qingcheng Shan) 374
Feilai Gusi 309 Museum of Opera and Theater Tianshui 467
Feixia Gusi 309 (Suzhou) 211 Tianshun emperor 58
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 shadow plays and puppet theater Tiantai Buddhist sect 253
Hanging Temple 127, 137 591 Tiantai Shan 253, 406
Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217 Shanghai 206, 207 Tiantai Zhengding (Jiuhua Shan) 240
Heng Shan temples 267 traditional theater 119, 590–91 Tianxing 407
Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai) Theft 604 Tianya Haijiao 311
202 Theme parks Tianye Ge (Ningbo) 252
Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Disneyland (Hong Kong) 331, 338, Tianyou Shan 298
Jiuhua Shan 240 339 Tianzhu Peak (Wudang Shan) 278
Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 522, 534, Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 328–9 Tianzi Ge (Wulingyuan) 271
536–7 Shenzhen 302 Tibet 520–51
Lama Temple (Beijing) 98–9 Themed restaurants 567 British invasion 547
Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, Third Moon Fair 51 customs information 599
236 Thousand Buddha Caves (Kizil) 17, frontier 377, 503
Lukhang (Lhasa) 532 513 “The Great Game” 495, 547
Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) 13, Thousand Buddha Cliffs (Nanjing) 237 hotels 563
313, 320–21 Thousand Buddha Mountain (Jinan) landscape and wildlife 26
Puning Si (Chengde) 129, 130–31 148 Lhasa 532–41
GENERAL INDEX 645
Yan’an Revolutionary Museum Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) Sect (cont.) Yongle emperor (cont.)
(Yan’an) 177 Longwu Si (Tongren) 502 Nanjing 229
Yandang Shan 183, 245, 253 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 541 Yongquan Si (Fuzhou) 298
Yang Can Mu 416 Ta’er Si 504 Yongzheng emperor 59, 68, 115,
Yang Guan 498 Wudang Zhao 476 128
Yang Guifei 63 Wutai Shan 140 Forbidden City 95
Yang Jian 61 Yellow River 78, 159, 177 Youguo Si (Wutai Shan) 142
Yang Zengxin 510 at Baotou 476 Youmin Si (Nanchang) 256
Yangdi 422 at Jinan 148 Younghusband, Colonel Francis 495,
Yangdi emperor 59, 61, 223 at Kaifeng 156 547
Yangpu Bridge (Shanghai) 201 at Lanzhou 488 Youth Day 51
Yangshao culture 57 at Yinchuan 479 Youth hostels 554
Yangshuo 10, 14, 349, 403, 410–11, at Zhongwei 480 Youyi Guan 431
423, 424–5 Grand Canal 223 Yu Gardens and Bazaar (Shanghai)
hotels 562 in Inner Mongolia 465, 467 12, 198–9
Li River cruise 422 in Lanzhou 483 Yu the Great 252
map 425 Mengda Tian Chi 503 Yu Ling (Shaoxing) 252
restaurants 583 in Shaanxi province 167 Yu Men Guan 498
rock climbing 594 in Shandong and Henan 147 Yu River 428
Yangshuo Gongyuan 424 in Shanxi province 127 Yuan Douguang 381
Yangzhou 209, 226–7 Yellow River Scenic Area Yuan dynasty 66
map 227 (Zhengzhou) 158 Yuan Empire 58, 66, 85
restaurants 577 Yellow Sea 437, 443 horse-riding skills 468
Yangzhou Museum 226 Yen Li Pen 61 porcelain 261
Yangzi Bridge (Wuhan) 272 Yengisar 518 Yuan Shikai, General 69, 303
Yangzi River 15, 180, 182 Yesun Temur 58 Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Anyang) 158
at Chongqing 356 Yi, Marquis of 272 Yuandi emperor 58
at Nanjing 228, 233 Yi De, Prince, tomb of 176 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of Perfect
at Shanghai 201 Yi people 384, 408 Brightness, Beijing) 109, 439
at Yueyang 267 Yi Yin 564 Yuantong Si (Kunming) 380
delta 226 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Yuantou Zhu (Tai Hu) 222
Grand Canal 223 Yichang 15, 264, 265, 274 Yubi Feng (Wulingyuan) 271
in Hunan and Hubei 265 Yijing (Book of Changes) 39 Yue Fei Mu (Hangzhou) 246
in Jiangsu 209 Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Yue people 291
in Southwest China 346 Yin and Yang 38-9 Yuecheng Hu 374
Three Gorges 11, 15, 276–7, 349, food and drink 564–5 Yueliang Shan (Yangshuo) 425
355, 358–9 Forbidden City 93 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307
Three Gorges Dam 182, 274–5, traditional medicine 238 Yueya Quan (Dunhuang) 498
358–60 Yinchuan 473, 479 Yueyang 267
in Tibet 531 hotels 563 Yueyang Tower (Yueyang) 267
Tiger Leaping Gorge 400–401 restaurants 584 Yufeng Si 398
Yangzi cruise 349, 358–9, 360 Ying, Prince of Chu 60 Yuhuang Ge (Yinchuan) 479
in Yunnan 379 Yingxian Pagoda 171 Yuhuang Miao (Tai Shan) 150
Yanqing Guan (Kaifeng) 156 Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Island) Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154
Yantai 154 293 Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237
Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Yingzong emperor 59 Yulong Xue Shan 10, 14, 398
Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 Yining 512–13 Yunfeng Ba Zhai 406
Yao people 390, 426 Yip Man 308 Yung Shue Wan 330
Yao Wenyuan 71 Yixian 209, 240
Yaoqu 390 Yixing county 224 Yungang Caves 76, 127, 137, 138–9
Yarkand 519 Yizhou Pavilion (Changzhou) 224 Yunnan province 348, 349, 378–401
Yarlung Tsangpo River 531 Yizong emperor 58 Dai people 389
Yehenala 445 Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) 364 flowers 350
Yellow Cloth Shoal (Li River) 422 Yong River 252 food and drink 353
Yellow Crane Pavilion (Wuhan) 40, Yongan Si (Beijing) 96 hotels 562
272 Yongding 291 maps 379
Yellow Emperor 168 earthen dwellings of Yongding Naxi people 399
Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) Sect 524, 290, 296 restaurants 582–3
526 Yongding River 116 Stone Forest 384–5
Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) Yongle emperor 58, 67, 79 Tiger Leaping Gorge 379, 400–401
540 Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan
Labrang Monastery 487 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 96 10, 14
Lama Temple (Beijing) 98 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 110, 111 Yusup Hazi Hajup 515
GENERAL INDEX 649
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Digital Media Team
people whose contributions have made the preparation Nishi Bhasin, Manjari Rathi Hooda, Pramod Pant,
of this book possible. Mahesh Singh
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652 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 653
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Glossary
Architecture sanxian three-stringed lute Special Economic Zone (SEZ)
cheng city; also means city wall sheng modern instrument based on areas, such as Shenzhen, set aside
chorten or stupa, a Buddhist the lusheng with 17 to 37 pipes in the 1980s for a capitalist test of
tower containing sacred objects suona double-reeded wind a freer economy and to attract
dian pavilion instrument, similar to an oboe foreign investment
dougong elaborate bracket taotie pattern on Shang bronze; triad a secret society, especially one
attaching column to beam possibly representing a mythical involved in organized crime
ge storied pavilion man-eating beast
gompa Tibetan monastery xiao bamboo flute Natural Features
gong palace; usually denotes a xun rounded clay wind instrument chi lake or pool
Daoist temple zheng many-stringed zither dao island
gulou drum tower dong cave
hutong alleyway History and Politics feng peak
ling tomb cadre Communist party bureaucrat gongyuan park
lou storied building canton a small territory where gou gully
men city gate foreign traders were required to hai sea
miao temple, usually Confucian reside during 18th and 19th centuries haitan beach
mu tomb Communist Party ruling party in he river
nanmu cedar with much-valued China since 1949 hu lake
straight trunk used for columns concession an area of land ceded jiang river
paifang ornamental gateway to a foreign government karst limestone landscape with
pailou ornamental gateway Cultural Revolution radical irregular peaks, underground streams,
qiao bridge attempt to socialize China’s culture, caves, and sinkholes (see pp418–19)
si temple, usually Buddhist 1966–76 (see pp70–71) pubu waterfall
siheyuan courtyard house Gang of Four high-profile group shan mountain
Spirit Tower pavilion at entrance to responsible for some of the Cultural shui water
an imperial tomb Revolution’s worst excesses (see p71) shuiku reservoir
Spirit Way straight road leading to Great Leap Forward Mao’s tan pool
an imperial tomb and lined with disastrous policy to force the xi stream
guardian statues collectivism of agriculture (1958–60), xia gorge
stele free-standing stone slab or resulting in widespread famine
pillar engraved with text Kuomintang (KMT) founded by Religion and Philosophy
stupa a Buddhist tower containing Sun Yat-sen; fought the Communists A-Ma Macau’s Goddess of the Sea; see
sacred objects for 25 years under Chiang Kai-shek; Tianhou
ta pagoda moved to Taiwan where it is still a Amitabha Buddha Buddha of
tang hall major party boundless light
yuan garden Legalism fascistic political philo- Analects (Lunyu) major work
zhonglou bell tower sophy dominant during the Qin compiled by Confucius’s followers of
dynasty based on the idea that man his sayings
Culture is undisciplined and must be arhat or luohan; one of the
celadon pottery with greenish glaze controlled through fear Buddha’s 18 disciples
cloisonné enameling, in which the Little Red Book Mao’s sayings Avalokitesvara bodhisattva of
enamel is raised and separated by compiled by Lin Biao, head of the compassion
fine pieces of wire PLA, in 1966 as a treatise for Red bagua eight trigrams ranged
erhu two-stringed fiddle Guards and the PLA around a yin-yang symbol; a
huaju spoken theater Long March epic tactical retreat of codification of qi (see pp36–7)
jingju Beijing Opera the Communist Party from Nation- Bodhidarma Indian monk who
lacquer wood glazed with sap from alist forces in 1935 (see p262) traveled to China in the 6th century
the lac tree which is carved before Nationalist Party the Kuomintang and started the Chan (Zen) sect of
completely dry (see p298) People’s Liberation Army (PLA) Buddhism
lusheng bamboo instrument with Communist military forces bodhisattva Buddhist deities who
numerous pipes Red Guard unruly movement have postponed nirvana to help
model opera operas based on a approved by Mao during the others
proletarian heroic model, promoted Cultural Revolution to weed out Bon indigenous animistic faith of
by Mao’s wife Jiang Qing during the counter-revolutionaries and destroy Tibet (see p526)
Cultural Revolution evidence of the past Buddha the awakened one,
pipa lute-like instrument soviet regional Communist base, originally the Indian Gautama
porcelain translucent ceramic ware e.g. Jiangxi Soviet Buddha; in Chinese and Tibetan
made from clay containing kaolin Special Administrative Region schools the Buddha has numerous
and feldspar, and fired at high (SAR) regions, such as Hong Kong forms (see pp36, 491, 526–7)
temperatures (see p260) and Macau, provided with a high Buddhism religion based on the
sancai tri-glazed pottery, prevalent degree of autonomy and a capitalist teachings of the 6th-century BC
during Tang dynasty economy Indian teacher Gautama Buddha
GLOSSARY 655
Phrase Book
The Chinese language belongs to the Sino- in vertical columns from top right to bottom
Tibetan family of languages and uses characters left, however the Western style is widely used.
which are ideographic – a symbol is used to There are several romanization systems; the
represent an idea or an object. Mandarin Pinyin system used here is the official system in
Chinese, known as Putonghua in mainland mainland China. This phrase book gives the
China, is fairly straightforward as each character English word or phrase, followed by the Chinese
is monosyllabic. Traditionally, Chinese is written script, then the Pinyin for pronunciation.
In an Emergency
Guidelines for Pronunciation
Help! Qing bangmang
Pronounce vowels as in these English Stop! Ting zhu
words: Call a doctor! Jiao yisheng
Call an ambulance! Jiao jiuhuche
a as in “father” Call the police! Jiao jiingcha
Fire! Huo
e as in “lurch” Where is the Yiyuan/jingcha
i as in “see” hospital/police fenju zai nali ?
station?
o as in “solid”
u as in “pooh” Communication Essentials
ü as the French u or German ü (place your Hello Nihao
Goodbye Zaijian
lips to say oo and try to say ee) Yes/no shi/bushi
Most of the consonants are pronounced as in … not … bushi
I’m from… Wo shi … ren
English. As a rough guide, pronounce the I understand Wo mingbai
following consonants as in these English words: I don’t know Wo bu zhidao
Thank you Xiexie ni
c as ts in “hats”
Thank you very Duo xie
q as ch in “cheat” much
Thanks (casual) Xiexie
x as sh in “sheet” You’re welcome Bu yong xie
No, thank you Bu, xiexie ni
z as ds in “heads” Please (offering) Qing
zh as j in “Joe” Please (asking) Qing wen
I don’t understand Wo Bu mingbai
Mandarin Chinese is a tonal language with four Do you speak Ni hui jiang
tones, represented in Pinyin by one of the English? yingyu ma?
I can’t speak Wo buhui jiang
following marks ˉ ´ ˘ ` above each vowel – the Chinese hanyu
symbol shows whether the tone is flat, rising, Please speak more Qing jiang man
falling and rising, or falling. The Chinese slowly yidian
characters do not convey this information: tones Sorry/Excuse me! Baoqian/duibuqi
Could you help Ni neng bang zhu
are learnt when the character is learnt. Teaching me please? (not wo ma?
tones is beyond the scope of this small emergency)
phrasebook, but a language course book with a
cassette or CD will help those who wish to take Useful Phrases
the language further. My name is …. Wo jiao …
How do you do, Ni hao, hen
Dialects pleased to meet gaoxing jiandao
you ni
There are many Chinese dialects in use. It is hard How are you? Ni hao ma?
to guess exactly how many, but they can be Good morning Zaoshang hao
roughly classified into one of seven large groups Good afternoon/ Xiawu hao/
(Mandarin, Cantonese, Hakka, Hui etc.), each good day Ni hao
Good evening Wanshang hao
group containing a large number of more minor Good night Wan an
dialects. Although all these dialects are quite Goodbye Zaijian
different – Cantonese uses six tones instead of Take care Bao zhong
four – Mandarin or Putonghua, which is mainly Keep well (casual) Zhuyi shenti
The same to you Ni yeshi
based on the Beijing dialect, is the official What is (this)? (zhe) shi shenme?
language. Despite these differences all Chinese How do you Ni zenyang yong
people are more or less able to use the same use this? zhege dongxi?
Could I possibly Neng buneng qing
formal written language so they can understand have …? (very ni gei wo …
each other’s writing, if not each other’s speech. polite)
Is there … here? Zhe’r you … ma?
Phrase book 657
taxi chuzuche
Sightseeing ticket piao
Where is …? … zai nali? ticket office shoupiao chu
How do I get to …? Wo zenme dao …? timetable shikebiao
Is it far? Yuan bu yuan?
art gallery meishu guan Trains
reservations desk dingpiao tai
bridge qiao What is the fare Qu … de piaojia
city chengshi to …? shi duoshao?
city center shi zhongxin When does the Qu … de huoche
free entry mianfei ruchang train for … leave? shenme shihou
gardens huayuan kai?
hot spring wen quan How long does it Qu … yao duoshao
tourist information lüyou xinxi chu take to get to …? shijian?
office A ticket to …, Mai yizhang qu …
island dao please de piao
monastery siyuan Do I have to Wo yao buyao
mountain shan change? huanche?
museum bowuguan I’d like to reserve Wo xiang yuding
palace gongdian a seat, please yige zuowei
park gongyuan Which platform Qu … de huoche
port gangkou for the train to …? zai nage zhantai?
river jiang, he Which station is Zhe shi shenme
ruins feixu this? chezhan?
shopping area gouwu qu Is this the right Zhe huoche shi
shrine shendian train for …? bushi qu …?
street jie train station huoche zhan
temple si/miao express train zhida kuaiche
tour, travel lüxing fast train kuai che
town zhen ordinary train putong lieche
village cun line xianlu
province/county sheng/xian local train difang lieche
zoo dongwuyuan platform zhantai
north bei reserved seat yuding zuowei
south nan subway ditie
east dong train huoche
west xi unreserved seat wei yuding de
left/right zuo/you zuowei
straight ahead yizhi xiangqian hard seat yingzuo
between zai … zhijian soft seat ruanzuo
near/far jin/yuan hard sleeper yingwo
up/down shang/xia soft sleeper ruanwo
new xin upgrade ticket shengji chepiao
old/former jiu
upper/lower genggao/gengdi Accommodations
middle/inner zhongjian
in zai … li Do you have any Nimen you meiyou
in front of zai … qianmian vacancies? kong fang jian?
I have a Wo you yuding de
reservation fangjian
Getting around I’d like a room Wo xiang yao yige
with a bathroom you weishengjian
airport jichang de taojian
bicycle zixingche What is the charge Mei wan de shoufei
rickshaw renliche per night? shi duoshao?
I want to rent Wo xiang zu Are the taxes Jiage you meiyou
a bicycle yiliang zixingche. included in the baokuo shui?
Ordinary bus gonggong qiche price?
Express bus tekuai gonggong Can I leave my Wo keyi ba xingli
qiche luggage here for fang zai zheli
Minibus mianbaoche a little while? yihui ‘er ma?
Main bus station gonggong qiche Can I have a look Wo keyi kan yi
zong zhan at the room? kan fangjian ma?
Which bus goes Nayilu gonggong air-conditioning Kongtiao
to …? qiche dao … qu? bath xizao
When is the Xiayiliang gonggong check-out tui fang
next bus? qiche shi deposit dingjin
shenme shihou? double bed shuangren chuang
Please tell me Qing gaosu wo zai hair drier chuifeng ji
where to get off? nali xia che. hot (boiled) water re (kai) shui
car xiaoqiche hotel (upscale) fangdian
ferry duchuan hotel (downscale) lüguan
ferry dock du kou hostel zhaodaisuo
baggage room xingli shi room fangjian
motorcycle motuoche economy room jingji fang
one-way ticket dancheng piao key yaoshi
return ticket wangfan piao front desk qiantai
phrase book 659
Drinks 21 ershi yi
22 ershi er
beer pijiu 30 sanshi
black tea hong cha 40 sishi
coffee (hot) (re) kafei 100 yi bai
black bu jia niunai 101 yi bai ling yi
coffee with milk jia niunai 200 er bai
filter guolü 300 san bai
cappuccino kapuqinuo kafei 400 si bai
cola kele 500 wu bai
green tea lü cha 600 liu bai
iced coffee bing kafei 700 qi bai
lemon tea ningmeng cha 800 ba bai
milk niunai 900 jiu bai
mineral water kuang quanshui 1,000 yi qian
orange juice cheng zhi 1,001 yi qian ling yi
soya drink (milk) dou jiang 2,000 liang qian
tea (Western-style) cha (xi shi) 10,000 yi wan
tea with milk jia niunai de cha 20,000 liang wan
water shui 100,000 shi wan
whiskey weishiji 1,000,000 yi bai wan
wine putaojiu 123,456 shier wan san qian
yoghurt drink suannai yinliao si bai wushi liu
Health Time
I don’t feel well Wo ganjue bu Monday xingqiyi
shufu Tuesday xingqi’er
I have a pain in … Wo … teng. Wednesday xingqisan
I’m allergic to … Wo dui … guomin Thursday xingqisi
acetaminophen purexitong Friday xingqiwu
(paracetamol) Saturday xingqiliu
aspirin asipilin Sunday xingqitian
asthma xiaochuan January yiyue
cold ganmao February eryue
condom biyuntao March sanyue
cough kesou April siyue
dentist yayi May wuyue
diabetes tangniaobing June liuyue
diarrhea fuxie July qiyue
doctor yisheng August bayue
fever fashao September jiuyue
flu liugan October shiyue
headache touteng November shiyiyue
hospital yiyuan December shi’eryue
medicine yaopin Spring chun
mosquito coil wenxiang Summer xia
mosquito netting wenzhang fall/autumn qiu
traditional chuantong winter dong
Chinese medicine zhongyi noon zhongwu
pharmacy yaodian midnight wuye
prescription chufang today jintian
sanitary pads weishengjin yesterday zuotian
stomach ache weitong tomorrow mingtian
tissues zhijin this morning jintian shangwu
toothache yateng this afternoon jintian xiawu
this evening jintian wanshang
for the whole day yi zheng tian
Numbers
(continuous)
0 ling every day mei tian
1 yi month yue
2 er hour xiaoshi
3 san time/hour shijian
4 si (duration)
5 wu minute fenzhong
6 liu this year jin nian
7 qi last year qu nian
8 ba next year ming nian
9 jiu one year yi nian
10 shi late wan
11 shiyi early zao
12 shier soon henkuai
20 ershi now xianzai