D’source 1

Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details
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Design Resource Introduction

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making The Chettinadu saree was derived from the place where it was created. Chettinadu is a small town in Sivaganga
by district of Tamil Nadu. The traditional saree from Chettinadu is called Kandangi and it is basically made of cotton.
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr. The saree is woven in different vibrant hues and the artisans used cotton as fabric. The Chettinadu sarees are
designed by incorporating checks/ stripes of vivid colours. The traditional sarees are made in mustard, brick red,
Susanth C. S.
earthly reds, oranges, chromes and brown colours. Checks and Temple borders are the traditional patterns of
NID, Bengaluru
Kandangi saree.

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/in-
troduction

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details
The traditional and handmade Kandangi sari. Women working with winding machine.
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Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/in-
troduction

The overview of loom. Kandangi sarees are woven by incorporating checks of

1. Introduction vibrant hues.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

Women weaving at work place. The eye catching vibrant colors used in the warp.
D’source 4
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/in-
troduction

Work environment at working place. The ethnic pallu design.

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The details of a traditional design. The overview of loom and its setting.
D’source 5
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Design Resource Tools and Raw Materials

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making Tools used in weaving are:
by • Winding machine
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr. • Loom
• Shuttle
Susanth C. S.
• Bobbin
NID, Bengaluru
Raw Materials used for making Kandangi Saree are:
• Cotton yarns
• Colors/ dyes
• Ash
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/
tools-and-raw-materials

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The cotton fabric is used to make sarees.

D’source 6
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/
tools-and-raw-materials

1. Introduction Winding machine with wood charkas used for spinning. The cylindrical wooden frame which is a ‘warping ma-
chine’ used to process the warp.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The spools with cotton thread wounded on it. The cotton is wounded on charka machine.
D’source 7
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/
tools-and-raw-materials

Hand cranking ‘charka machine’ to form spindles. Fly shuttle which is used while weaving to form weft.
1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The traditional wooden jacquard which enables The complete view of loom.
design for the saree borders.
D’source 8
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/
tools-and-raw-materials

The basic ash powder is used to attach the strands of cotton from
1. Introduction warp to loom.

2. Tools and Raw Materials

3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The basic ash powder is used to attach the strands of cotton from
warp to loom.
D’source 9
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Design Resource Making Process

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making The process of weaving starts with making warp and weft. The cotton yarn is bought by the weavers and dyed in
by desired colors either at home or it is send to dyers operating locally.
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Spinning:
Susanth C. S.
Cotton yarns are placed on winding machine for spinning. Sometimes the process is also carried out manually.
NID, Bengaluru
The yarn is collected on spools.
Warping:
The spools are further taken for making warp on a warping machine. Huge wooden machines are used to make
warps.
Winding weft: Weft yarn is wound on a plastic cylinder from the hank. The weft yarn is wound as the weaving
Source: progresses. This is done mostly at home by family members who have got time for it.
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak- Piecing:
ing-process Piecing is a process where the existing ends on the reed-heald setup is joined with the ends from the new warp
but twisting. This pre-weaving process is undertaken by older women in the family.
Weaving:
1. Introduction Finally the loom is loaded with warp and then the weaving starts. While weaving artisans manually mend the
broken warp. The woven saree is wrapped on the wooden frame at regular intervals. Artisans pass/ use different
2. Tools and Raw Materials colors of contrasting threads while weaving to create designs.
3. Making Process Finishing:
4. Products After the saree is made it is taken out from the loom and folded and packed to be sold in market.
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The colored cotton is ready for spinning.

D’source 10
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Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

The cotton bundles are arranged on winding Breakages are checked and joined while spinning.
1. Introduction machine to spin.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The cotton spools are ready to be taken out These spools are used to prepare warp using warping
from the machine. machine.
D’source 11
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

Each strand of thread is taken and wounded into Cotton is arranged on the charka to spin the
1. Introduction warp. cotton into spools.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The closer perspective of spinning. The cotton spindles are ready to be used in weft pro-
cess. Initially the warp is loaded into the loom.
D’source 12
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

Joining each strand of cotton from the warp to the The joined warp is loaded into the loom to start
1. Introduction loom. weaving process.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

Weaver has to check for the entangles and breakages in The process of weaving and joining the threads goes on
the warp. regularly.
D’source 13
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

Inserting the spindle into fly shuttle. Fly shuttle is inserted into the loom to process weft.
1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

Weaver pulling rope to move shuttle between the The woven saree is wounded on the wooden frame at
threads of the warp. regular intervals to continue weaving.
D’source 14
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

Different contrast threads are directly passed If the weaver finds any mistake, he usually goes back to
1. Introduction through the warp to form design while weaving. undo and then redo it to continue weaving.
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The loom is placed in such a way that natural light from a window will come from the weaver’s side.
D’source 15
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource
Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/mak-
ing-process

1. Introduction The traditional Kandangi sari is ready for the market.

2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

The beautiful handmade ethnic sari with stunning border is ready to

wear.
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Design Resource Products

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making Some examples of the Kandangi Saree are given below:
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/
products

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials A traditional cotton Kandangi Saree. A traditional and handmade Kandangi Saree.
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details

Details of a traditional design with stunning border. Details of the beautiful ethnic kandangi saree design.
D’source 17
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Design Resource Video

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru

Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/vid-
eo

1. Introduction
2. Tools and Raw Materials
3. Making Process
4. Products
5. Video
6. Contact Details
Kandangi Saree Weaving
D’source 18
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Design Resource Contact Details

Kandangi Saree
The Craft of Chettinadu Saree Making
This documentation was done by Professor Bibhudutta
by
Baral, Mr. J. Antony William and Mr. Susanth C. S. at NID,
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. Antony William and Mr.
Bengaluru.
Susanth C. S.
NID, Bengaluru You can get in touch with Professor Bibhudutta Baral at
bibhudutta[at]nid.edu.

You could write to the following address regarding sug-

gestions and clarifications:
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/kandangi-saree/con- Helpdesk Details:
tact-details Co-ordinator
Project e-kalpa
R & D Campus
1. Introduction National Institute of Design
#12 HMT Link Road, Off Tumkur Road
2. Tools and Raw Materials Bengaluru 560 022
3. Making Process India.
4. Products
Phone: +91 80 2357 9054
5. Video Fax: +91 80 23373086
6. Contact Details Email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com