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Product Testing Protocols:

Apparel

Issued September 6, 2016


Revised May 25, 2017
Sampling Requirements
Fabric and Pre-Production Testing (Required by Bluestem)
One pre-production garment made in the production fabric, trim, and hardware. Measurement specifications
must be issued along with the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below.

One yard or meter of production fabric in each additional colorway

Fabric testing is to be completed before fabric is cut for production. VENDOR CANNOT GO INTO
PRODUCTION UNTIL BOTH TESTING AND FIT SAMPLES HAVE BEEN APPROVED
If additional samples are required for flammability testing, two yards of production fabric in each colorway
should be submitted (these fabrics include raised fiber surfaces such as cotton flannel, corduroy, velvet, and
velveteen). Other fabrications may also apply.
Warehouse Testing (Monitored by Bluestem Brands only, not required for vendors)

One sample in any color from the production goods. Measurement specifications must be issued along with
the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below.

Sample Sizes

Draper’s and Damon’s, Norm Thompson Appleseeds and Wintersilks: Women’s size 8 or Small

Sahalie: Women’s size 10 or Medium

Haband, Bedford Fair, or Old Pueblo Traders: Women’s size 12 or Medium

Blair: Women’s size 14 or Medium

All Brands Men’s Tops: Size 44 or L

All Brands Men’s Bottoms: Size 38 or L

All Brands Men’s Sportcoats: Size 44 or L

All Brands Mens Dress shirts submit size 17 1/2 X 34

All Brands: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 1 of any color.

All Brands Bras and Intimates: Submit size 36B for bras and size 7 for women’s underwear. Men’s
underwear submit size 38.

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 2 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications
Description Method Guidance Requirement
LABELING
16 CFR Part 423,
Care Labeling ASTM D 3136, Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
ASTM D 5489
Test one color per
fabrication (one solid &
one heather) Required
Fiber Composition AATCC 20/20A for Customs No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends
classification and FTC
labeling. All Fabric Lots
to be tested.
16 CFR Part 300,
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 303,
/or CBP regulation
16 CFR Part 134
Manufacturer's 16 CFR Part 300, Must include a label identifying the manufacturer's name, registered
Identification 16 CFR Part 303 trademark or registered identification number, as applicable
FLAMMABILITY
Apparel
16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 - Flammability rating or Exemption Disclosure
Flammability
Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION / WORKMANSHIP
No major defects such as stains, holes, slub yarns, missed stitches, or other
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990
defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even color within a sample and between samples
Seams should be neat, no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be
Construction /
Visual Evaluation straight and uniform in size. Threads should be properly trimmed. Product
Workmanship
should be free of defects that affect end use and appearance.
General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken
Appearance after
Visual Evaluation stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or
Laundering
other changes that affect the appearance.
COLORFASTNESS
Fabrication Colors Dry Wet
All Fiber Contents All colors except
4.0 3.0
except below pastels and white
Denim, tie dye, dip
dye, pigment prints,
raised fiber All Colors 3.0 2.0
surfaces and pile
Colorfastness to AATCC 8, fabrics
All colors
Crocking AATCC 116 Prints Dark colorways
(deep green, dark
**Plain surface
navy, burgundy, 3.0 2.5
fabric
maroon, purple,
brown, black, red)
Dark indigo denim
Denim (washed), black 3.0 1.5
denim
Exceptions:
Denims, sulfur
Home dyes, tie dyes,
Use "Tide" detergent to Swimwear:
Laundering: dip dyes,
wash. Three (3) Dark,
Hand Wash 1 pigment prints,
Colorfastness to AATCC washes for machine and Color Change neon/
Cycle, Machine raised fiber
Washing and/or 135/150/158, (1) hand wash. One (1) fluorescent
Wash 3 Cycles surfaces, pile
Commercial Dry AATCC TS-006, wash for dry cleaning. colors
except as noted fabrics, dark
Cleaning AATCC R-003 Leather is to be colorways
"Professionally Dry (see** above)
Cleaned" Color Change 4.0 3.5 3.0
Color Staining 3.5 3.0 3.0
Self Staining 4.5 4.5 4.5
Colorfastness to
AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0
Chlorine Bleach

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 3 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications
Description Method Guidance Requirement
Colorfastness to
Non-Chlorine AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0
Bleach
Colorfastness to Outerwear: Swimwear: Neon Swimwear:
AATCC 16
Light 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 10 AFU Grade 2.0
COLORFASTNESS SWIMWEAR ONLY
Chlorinated Pool
AATCC 162 Shade Change 4.0
Water
Shade Change 4.0
Sea Water AATCC 106
Staining 3.0
Colorfastness to Color Change 4.0
AATCC 15 All colors except white
Perspiration Staining 3.0

Woven Garments by Fabrication


Description Method Guidance Requirement
FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%)
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%)
PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (minimum) (Excludes Hats, Gloves, and Scarves)
Woven All Fibers and Fabrications except Denim and Pile Fabrics
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<2.5 oz/sqyd 20 15
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 30 20
4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 40 30
>7.3 oz/sqyd 50 35
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<2.5 oz/sqyd 1.5 1.0
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 2.0 1.5
4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 2.2 2.0
>7.3 oz/sqyd 3.0 2.5
Weight Seam lbf
< 4.3 oz/sq yd 20 min
Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683
> 4.3 oz/sq yd 25 min
Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4"
DENIM (all values are minimums)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 60 35
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 8.0 - 9.8 oz/sqyd 80 45
9.9 - 11.9 oz/sqyd 90 55
> 12.0 oz/sqyd 100 75
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 3.0 2.0
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 8.0 - 9.8 oz/yd 3.5 2.5
9.9 - 11.9 oz/yd 4.0 3.5
> 12.0 oz/yd 5.0 4.0
Weight Seam lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min
Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683
> 8.0 oz/sqyd 30 min
Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4"
DISTRESSED DENIM (all values are minimums)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 50 35
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 8.0 - 9.8 oz/sq yd 55 40
9.9 - 11.9 oz/sq yd 70 50
> 12.0 oz/sqyd 80 60

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 4 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Woven Garments by Fabrication
Description Method Guidance Requirement
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 3.5 2.5
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 8.0 - 9.8 oz/yd 4.5 3.2
9.9 - 11.9 oz/yd 5.5 3.5
> 12.0 oz/yd 6.5 4.0
Weight Seam lbf
<8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min
Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683
> 8.0 oz/sqyd 25 min
Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4"
WOVEN PILE FABRICS AND COTTON FLANNEL
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<2.5 oz/sqyd 20 12
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 28 20
4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 32 24
>7.3 oz/sqyd 40 32
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf
<2.5 oz/sqyd 1.5 1.5
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 2 2
4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 2.5 2.5
>7.3 oz/sqyd 2.5 2.5
Weight Seam lbf
<4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min
Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683
> 4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min
Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/8"
Skewing AATCC 179 3.0% Maximum
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE
Dimensional Stability (3 Home Laundering Dry Clean
machine wash cycles, 1 hand
wash, 1 dryclean) Length Width Length Width
100% Cotton, CVC -3% -3% -2% -2%
Cotton/Spandex Blends -4% -4% -2% -2%
AATCC 135/150/158,
Man Made Cellulosic Fibers AATCC TS-006, -3% -3% -2% -2%
Man Made Synthetic Fibers AATCC R-003 -3% -3% -2% -2%
Wool, Cashmere, Angora, or
-4% -4% -3% -3%
other animal hair blends
AATCC 135/150/158,
Dimensional Stability: Growth AATCC TS-006, +1% +1% +1% +1%
AATCC R-003

Knit Garments by Fabrication


Description Method Guidance Requirement
FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION

As specified in Product Specification or


Fabric Weight - Weft and Warp Knits ASTM D 3776
Purchase Order (+/- 5%)

PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (MINIMUM)


< 100 gr/m2 or <3.0 oz/sq yard = 35 psi -
Weft Knits
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 ≥100 gr/m2 or ≥3.0 oz/sq yard = 45 psi -
Weft Knits
30psi - Warp Knits

Skewing AATCC 179 4.0% Maximum

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 5 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Knit Garments by Fabrication
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WEFT KNIT
AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean)
Fancy Knits,
Jersey, Thermal /
Pique, Pointelle, Fake Fur, Fleece, French
Fiber Content Double Rib Knits Waffle
Interlock Bird's Eye, Terry, Velour
Knit Apparel
Jaquard
100% Cotton, CVC or predominately
Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Length 7%,
Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute, Length 5%, Width 5%
Width 5% Width 5% Width 7% Width 5% Width 7%
Spandex Blends

Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%,
Length 5%, Width 5%
Olefin, CVS Width 5% Width 5% Width 5% Width 5% Width 5%

Home Home Home Home Home


Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Home Laundering:
Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Width 5%
Wool, Cashmere, Angora, Silk, Width 5% Width 5% Width 7% Width 5% Width 7%
Rayon, Lyocell, CVL, CVRayon
Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning:
Drycleaning:
Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%,
Length 3%, Width 3%
Width 3% Width 3% Width 3% Width 3% Width 3%

Dimensional Stability: Growth, Weft AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC


Length 2%, Width 2%
Knits TS-006, AATCC R-003
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WARP KNIT
AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean)

Home Laundering: Drycleaning:


Plain Knits, Lace, Net, Mesh
Length 5%, Width 5% Length 2%, Width 2%

AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC


Dimensional Stability: Growth, Warp Length 2%, Width 2%
TS-006, AATCC R-003

Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents


Description Method Guidance Requirement
FABRIC QUALITY/CONSTRUCTION
As specified in Product Specification or
Fabric Weight (Lbs per Dozen) ASTM D 3776
Purchase Order (+/- 5%)
As specified in Product Specification or
Thread Count ASTM D3887
Purchase Order (+/- 5%)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - All Fiber Contents
(3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean)
Dimensional Stability: Home AATCC 135/150, Length Width
Laundering AATCC TS-006 -5% -5%
Dimensional Stability: Dry AATCC 158, Length Width
Cleaning AATCC R-003 -3% -3%
AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC Length Width
Dimensional Stability: Growth
TS-006, AATCC R-003 +2% +2%
Skewing AATCC 179 4.0% Maximum

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 6 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims
Description Method Guidance Requirement
Required by FTC if claimed Criteria Wrinkle Resistance Wrinkle Free
Wrinkle Resistance AATCC 124 / All Colors Tested after in Advertising. Fabric Smoothness 4.0 4.0
/ Durable Press 143 5 Launderings Test required for each fabric Seam Smoothness 3.5 4.0
lot purchased? Crease Resistant 3.5 4.0
Fabrication Grade
Snag Resistance ASTM D3939 CVC 3.0
CVS 2.0
Abrasion For corduroy fabric
ASTM D4685 Face: 3.0; Back: 4.0
Resistance only
Stretch and ASTM D2594 / Knit: 95% Min.; Woven: 85% Min.
Recovery D3107
Top Stop Strength Chain Crosswise Bottom Stop
Pull Tab Strength (min.)
(min.) Strength (min.) Strength (min.)
Lab should quote the Size 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10
Zipper Strength ASTM D2061 zipper size in the Brass/Nickel 20 / 25 / 30 / 40 / 60 10 / 15 / 15 / 30 / 30 50 / 75 / 120 / 150 / 150 7 / 10 / 10 / 20 / 30
report for reference Aluminum 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 60 10 / 15 / 15 / 20 / 20 50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100 7 / 10 / 10 / 15 / 20
Plastic/Nylon 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 40 15 / 15 / 20 / 30 / 30 50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100 8 / 10 / 15 / 15 / 20
CEF 15 / 15 / 30 / 50 / 50 10 / 10 / 20 / 40 / 60 50 / 50 / 100 / 150 / 200 7 / 8 / 15 / 40 / 60
Button Attachment ASTM F963 15 lbs @ 10 seconds Min 30 psi.
Snap & Fabric
ASTM D4846 Snap only Snap and unsnap action: 2-8 lbs.; Snap strength: 15 lbs. Min.
Strength
Eyelet only, Using
Eyelet Pull ASTM D1683
Tensile Testing Minimum 15 lbs.
Strength Modified
Machine, CRE
Composition Fed. Std. 148a, Feather and down Required for Federal Fish
Analysis Method 2 only and Wildlife Commission
Required for Federal Fish
Fed. Std. 148a, Feather and down
Oxygen number and Wildlife Commission Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating
Method 4 only
and FTC
Required by FTC if claimed Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70 (ISO2) - When Water Repellency claimed in
Water Repellency AATCC 22 All colors
in Advertising Advertising
All colors. For Condition Height of Water Time Water Absorption
Required by FTC if claimed
Customs Duty
in Advertising. Required by Rain
Water Resistance - Classification. All
AATCC 35 Customs if lower outerwear Shower Not more than 1.0
Rain test fabric lots tested. 2 feet 2 minutes
duty claimed. All Fabric Lots gram
Test Original and after
to be tested. Storm
5 Home Launderings.
Garment/Fabric Type Color Type Hour Grade
Light/Med 10 hours 4.0
Silk/swimwear Dark 20 hours 4.0
Colorfastness to
AATCC 16 All Colors Fluorescent 10 hours 2.0
Light
Leather All Colors 10 hours 4.0
Suede All Colors 20 hours 3.0
All Other Garments All Colors 20 hours 4.0

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 7 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims
Description Method Guidance Requirement
Color Change 4.0
Colorfastness to All colors, except
AATCC 107 Color Staining 3.0
Water pastels and white
Self-Staining 4.5
Colorfastness to
All colors, except Color Change 4.0
Chlorinated Pool AATCC 162
pastels and white Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0
Water
Color Change 4.0
Colorfastness to All colors, except Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0
AATCC 106
Sea Water pastels and white Color Staining 3.0
Self-Staining 4.5
Soil Release AATCC 130 All Colors Required by FTC if claimed 4.0 Minimum after 5 home launderings
in Advertising, All Fabric
Oil Repellency AATCC 118 For stain repellent Lots to be Tested. Original 5.0; After 5 home launderings 4.0
pH Value AATCC 81 White colors & denim pH 5.0 - 7.0
Formaldehyde AATCC 112 All colors Max. 75 ppm
EPA Required by CPSC, All For PU, PVC or likewise coated
Lead Content All colors Meet Federal requirements according to the end use of the fabrics.
3050B/3051 Fabric Lots to be Tested. fabrics.
AATCC 197 Required by FTC if claimed Vertical Wicking Knit: 8cm after 30 min, Woven: 5cm after 30 min
Wicking All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Horizontal wicking - water absorption rate:
ASTM D5802 Lots to be Tested. Horizontal Wicking
Knit: minimum 0.035g/second Woven: minimum 0.02 g/second
Required by FTC if claimed
Anti-bacterial AATCC 147 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Original No Growth
Lots to be Tested.
Required by FTC if claimed
Knit: ≥ 160 cfm
Air Permeability ASTM D737 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Original
Woven: ≥ 20 cfm
Lots to be Tested.
Required by FTC if claimed 1. Fabric classification: Moisture Management
Moisture Liquid Moisture
AATCC 195 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric 2. One way transport capability: Grade 3.5
management Management
Lots to be Tested. 3. Overall moisture management capability (OMMC): Grade 3.5

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 8 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17
Summary of Revisions
DATE: DESCRIPTION OF REVISION:
September 20, 2016 Added to Sampling Requirements: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 2 of
each color.
October 7, 2016 Added to Sampling Requirements: Haband requirements
March 30, 2017 Change to protocol to include fabric testing and pre-production testing
requirements

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel


Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 9 of 9
Revised: 5-25-17