1.

Roll up the strips if you skip the crosscut step, and keep peeling the strip
back. Keep in mind, though, that these rolls will be heavy. If you are installing
a large bed, consider renting a sod cutter. These steel-bladed, plowlike tools
are more efficient than spades for large jobs, and they come in human- and
gas-powered models.
Inspect your new bed’s subsoil (and the underside of the sod if it will be
reused). Once the sod is gone, look for and destroy potential pests, such as
the larvae of May/June beetles. Remove any rocks, remaining clumps of
grass, and sizable roots.
One drawback to sod removal is the significant loss of organic material,
which greatly contributes to the health of plants. It must be restored as
compost, as aged manure, or in some other form. Usually, topsoil must also
be replaced. Some of it may be shaken out of the sod that was removed, but
you will probably need more, especially if you need to raise the level of the
bed.
Pros: Permits immediate planting; avoids use of chemicals and loud power
tools
Cons: Is labor intensive; exposes subsoil to weed seeds by eliminating
vegetative cover; removes organic matter
Tip: Sharpen your tools before using them, and minimize muscle and joint
strain by using ergonomically designed tools or tools of appropriate length and
grip.
2. Till
Tilling lets a machine do most of the work, some of which is churning up thousands of
dormant weed seeds.
Photo/Illustration: Stephanie Fagan
Breaking up sod with a tiller requires some muscle, but most of the work is
done by the tiller’s engine. Small tillers can usually handle previously worked
gardens, but breaking up wellestablished sod requires a heavier, reartine unit
and may require more than one pass. After tilling the bed, remove and shake
the soil from any remaining clumps of grass.

One advantage of tilling is that the original organic matter is retained in the
garden as the sod is turned under. You can add organic matter by forking or
shoveling compost, manure, grass clippings, or leaf mold onto the sod before
tilling.
A tilled bed can be planted immediately, but the process brings to the
surface weed seeds that may germinate and cause problems later. You may
also wind up inadvertently propagating some weeds like quack grass, which
can send up new shoots from the small pieces of its chopped-up rhizome.
Canada thistle does the same thing with its severed lateral roots. If you keep
the soil moist and delay planting by a couple of weeks, you can pull, hoe, or
otherwise dispatch these weeds as they emerge.
Pros: Retains organic matter; is quicker and easier than digging; permits
immediate planting
Cons: Is difficult on rocky sites and in wet or clay soils; turns up weed seeds;
propagates certain weeds
Tip: Large tillers can be hard to maneuver. You will likely need to carve the
edge of your new bed with a spade or edger, especially if the border is curved.
3. Smother

Several layers of newspaper will block light, causing the grass to die. A few months
later, the soil will be ready for planting.
Perhaps the easiest way to eliminate grass is to smother it using plastic,
newspaper, or cardboard. Depending on the time of year and material used,
this can take several months.

Stretch light-excluding plastic over the lawn.

With the edges securely anchored, the temperature under the plastic will
increase dramatically. The high temperatures and lack of light will eventually
kill the grass, although they can also destroy beneficial organisms. Plastic can
be covered for aesthetic purposes, but it isn’t biodegradable and should
eventually be removed.
Lay cardboard or newspaper over the grass as a better alternative. Cover
these biodegradable materials with grass clippings, leaf mold, mulch, or
compost to hold the layers in place, keep in moisture, and add organic matter.
Lay down six to eight sheets of newspaper; use paper printed with black-and-
white ink only, as colored ink may contain heavy metals. Newspaper and
cardboard do not increase temperature as much as plastic, but they eliminate
light, causing chlorophyll to break down. Once this happens, photosynthesis
stops and the smothered plants die.
You can plant right away if you’re using cardboard or newspaper. Just plug
mature plants into holes that you have punched through the paper to the
underlying soil.
Pros: Does not require the physical effort of removing or turning under sod;
leaves original organic matter in place; does not disrupt soil structure
Cons: Delays planting up to several months; may kill beneficial organisms if
using plastic
Tip: Lay down newspaper layers during the summer, and wet them to help
keep them in place. The following spring, the grass should be dead and much
of the organic matter you’ve added will have been incorporated into the soil by
earthworms and other organisms.
4. Apply herbicides

Herbicides kill grass quickly, but it’s often unclear what else they do in the soil.
Photo/Illustration: Melissa Lucas
Some herbicides affect all plants, but others kill only grass, so choose wisely.
I favor the other three methods, perhaps because I can see immediately any
damage I cause (slicing through an earthworm with a spade, for example).
Too often in our dealings with nature, unanticipated effects of chemical use
have been discovered only later.

Choose an appropriate product, and carefully follow the directions on the

label if you decide to use herbicides to kill your grass. Be sure to buy a
product designed to kill grasses (not one specific to broad-leaved plants), and
check the expiration date.
Don’t apply herbicides when rain is expected or they may wash off plants
and into the soil and nearby waterways. Also, avoid applying on windy days to
prevent drift onto nearby plantings. Wear protective clothing, such as gloves,
long sleeves, long pants, and a mask when applying herbicides.
Well-established turf may require more than one application. It takes
several days for effective absorption of herbicides. Grass and weed seeds in
the soil will not be affected and may germinate later. This option may be
reasonable if you have appropriate equipment and follow safety instructions
and application recommendations carefully.
Pros: Is relatively simple and quick for gardeners experienced in herbicide
use; makes it easier to remove or turn grass
Cons: Risks injuring or killing nearby plants; can result in environmental
contamination, personal injury, or harm to beneficial organisms when used
 improperly
Tip: Follow label directions carefully, including those for product storage and
disposal. Use only products specifically formulated for the types of plants you
want to kill.
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