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2010
REPORT EXCERPT
R e po r t b y
T h e 1 9 9 0 s wa s a b o u t t h e m a rc h towa rd s m a n u fa c-
t u r i n g q u a l i t y a s t h e tex t i l e i n d u st r y wo r ld w i d e
ra c e d to a d o pt l e a n m a n u fa c t u r i n g a n d I S O d r i ve n
q u a l i t y p ra c t i c e s . T h e 2 0 0 0 s we re a b o u t e n s u r i n g
et h i ca l s o u rc i n g a n d l a b o u r p ra c t i c e s . T h e co m i n g
d e ca d e i s go i n g to b e a b o u t s u sta i n a b i l i t y a n d o pt i-
m a l l y u s i n g n at u ra l re s o u rc e s to ge n e rate va l u e i n
t h e tex t i l e s u p p l y c h a i n . T h i s re p o r t p rev i ews a c t i v-
i t i e s a l re a d y u n d e r way t h at a re h a r b i n ge rs o f t h i s
co m i n g m ove m e nt .
S u ppo r t e d b y
3
Co n t e n t
02 P r e fa c E
06 C r e ati n g S u sta i n a b l e S u pp ly C h a i n s i n t h e T e x ti l e I n d u st r Y
10 I n Fo c u s : A c ti v it y S n a ps h ot o f T e x ti l e B r a n d s a n d R e ta i l e r s
18 Adidas
20 GA P, I n C
22 H&M
24 I K EA
26 L e v i S t r a u ss & Co .
28 M a r ks & S p e n c e R
30 Nik e
32 O tto
33 Carrefour
34 Wa l m a r t
37 Co n ti n e n ta l C l ot h i n G
40 B r a n d s a n d r e ta i l e r s w i t h s u p p ly - c h a i n i n i t i at i v e s i n p l a n n i n g
41 P h i l l i p s - Va n H e u s e n
42 T h e T im b e r l a n d Compa n Y
43 I n d it e x
44 G r u po Co r to f i e l
44 P r im a r k
45 J o h n L e wis Pa r t n e r s h ip
46 Li n d e x
47 Tesco
50 S ta n d a r d s a n d C e r ti f i c atio n s
51 S ta n d a r d s f o r r e po r ti n g a n d c a pt u r i n g e missio n s b y c ompa n i e s
51 I S O 14000
52 GHG P r oto c o l
53 GR I R e po r ti n g F r a m e wo r k
54 PA S 2050
55 P r o d u c t S ta n d a r d s a n d c e r ti f i c atio n s
57 G l o b a l O r g a n i c T e x t i l e S ta n d a r d ( GOTS ) C e r t i f i c at i o n
58 B l u e si g n
60 I n d u st r y I n iti ati v e s
61 B S R W o r ki n g G r o u ps
62 O u t d oo r I n d u st r y Asso c i atio n
64 M a d e-By
64 T e x CU T S
65 B e tt e r Cotto n I n iti ati v e
66 P r e d i c tio n s a n d P l a n n i n g A h e a d
68 G l oss a r y a n d R e so u r c e s
69 D ata so u r c e s f o r t h e r e po r t
69 R e so u r c e s
5
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“ F O O D, C L O T H I N G , S H E LT E R ”
...
6
For centuries, these three have defined our basic human needs
across all cultures around the globe.
As the textile supply chain has evolved to meet changing price and
quality demands from the global marketplace, so has the sophistica-
tion of buyers in tracking their suppliers. In the mid-1990s, buyers
added a new dimension to their requirements, and began making de-
mands regarding health, safety and labour conditions. Global manu-
facturing centres have increasingly had to respond not only to local
requirements but also to global ones.
This report also touches upon initiatives that companies have already
started to engage in to improve raw materials in the supply chain,
such as the Better Cotton Initiative and the Organic Exchange. In ad-
dition, the report discusses other initiatives where buyers are coming
together to form a unified voice, including the Outdoor Industry As-
sociation, and working groups assembled by the Business for Social
Responsibility (BSR).
While much of the current work being done to increase the sustain-
ability of the global textile supply chain is still in its early stages or
being applied regionally, in the next 24-36 months these initiatives
will become mainstream globally.
The message for the supply chain should be clear: make no mistake,
sustainability is the next wave in the ever-changing landscape of tex-
tile manufacturing.
9
The goods of the textile sector are such an intrinsic part of our ev-
eryday lives that we take them for granted. The clothes we wear,
cushions we sit on, bed sheets we sleep in, carpets we walk on –
textiles surround us so completely, that the only other comparable
global human needs are food and shelter.
This report profiles 18 such firms building plans for offshore sustain-
ability and how they are looking to create a competitive edge for
themselves.
R&D work on sustainability for some of the firms has been done in
their corporate responsibility groups and now is being entered into
the mainstream (Nike, Adidas), while in other cases firms have made
it a centerpiece of their new strategy (M&S, Walmart) and still in
some other cases internal EHS initiatives are evolving further to focus
on sustainability (PvH, IndiTex).
The signaling for manufacturers is quite clear: become aware and get
started on this new path!
The Carbon Footprint is de-
how does one begin to measure sustainability that makes veloped on basis of the PAS
2050 guideline. Tesco, Conti-
sense to buyers?
nental Clothing, Levi Strauss
In this report we have compared a few standards and certifications & Co. are amongst those
that have been testing some
underway that ought to be on the radar of every supplier. While most
products with the Carbon
of the standards are still in the adoption phase, the underlying data Label.
requirements for most of them are quite similar. The section titled
Standards and certifications on Page 50 summarizes a few key stan-
dards and initiatives.
13
Snapshot of Firms with Supply Chain Sustaina
Brand Standards and What are they doing on reporting for
Frameworks being suppliers + initiatives relevant for
used suppliers
IKEA • Own tool: e-Wheel • Internal “IKEA Goes Renewable” is now extend-
for assessing environ- ing to suppliers to cut CO2 emissions
mental impact • Implementing new quality standards to reduce
textile weight
Otto Group Proprietary toolbox con- Climate Protection Strategy being rolled out
taining over 70 custom-
ised measures
Walmart • Sustainability Index • CDP supply chain leadership collaboration
• GOTS Certification for • Supplier Energy Efficiency Programme
organic textiles • Walmart online resources for supplier
sustainability
• Expanding supplier assessment internationally in
2010
14
ability Activities for the Textile Sector
S tat e d g o a l s a n d tim e l i n e Parameters for Supply Chain
Sustainable
Emmisions
Materials
Logistics
Carbon
Energy
Waste
As per the strategy 2008-2010, Adidas has identified
three primary sustainability areas as being core to their
business: aaaa
• Embedding environmental sustainability across the
business.
• Effectively managing business risks and social compli-
ance in the supply chain.
• Extending engagement internally and externally.
The Group has stated its commitment to reducing energy
consumption by 20% per square meter of sales area by
2020 (compared with 2004 levels). aa a
By 2010:
• Complete first phase of an environmental footprint as-
sessment across select owned and operated locations.
aaaa
• Complete the implementation of the denim clean wa-
ter programme.
• Have LEED accredited designers at Gap, BR and old
Navy Brands.
• Develop quantifiable environmental goals based on
data from the environment footprint assessment.
• Introduce new supply chain waste management
initiatives.
Since 2005, H&M has set a clear goal to reduce their car-
bon footprint 10% by 2009 compared to a 2004 baseline
year. In 2008, H&M listed Key Focus Areas for the envi-
ronment including reducing CO2 emissions, promoting
aaa
environmentally responsible cotton growing, and paying
increased attention to water impacts throughout their
product life cycle.
Reducing CO2 emissions, and also increasing their share of
renewable energy.
aaaa
aaa a
Reducing 20 million tonnes of CO2eq from its supply chain
(not only textiles) by 2015
aaaaa
15
SnaPShOT Of fIrMS WITh SuPPly chaIn SuSTaIna
brand STandardS and WhaT are They dOIng On rePOrTIng fOr
fraMeWOrKS beIng SuPPlIerS + InITIaTIveS relevanT fOr
uSed SuPPlIerS
LEVI STRAUSS • GHG Protocol • Finalizing methodology for analyzing water foot-
print of supply chain partners, to be deployed in
• Global Effluent 2010.
Guidelines (GEG) for
wastewater • Information management system being rolled-
out to suppliers to collect and track energy use
data.
• Extending its Global Effluent Guidelines (GEG) to
second-tier suppliers of bulk fabric and sundry
items.
• Extended its Greenhouse Gas Inventory to all of
owned and operated locations worldwide
• DEFRA GHG Guide- • M&S Supplier Exchange for sharing best
lines/ PAS 2050 practices
MARKS AND SPENCER
• GRI G3 • Cotton Sourcing Strategy in 2010
• Internal programme: • Aim to have 20 million clothing garments that
Plan A use Fairtrade Cotton by the conclusion of Plan A
• Working with suppliers to improve logistics
efficiency
• Looking to promote PAS to suppliers as the
preferred method for calculating product carbon
footprints
• Material Analysis • Nike Water Programme
Tool (MAT) to evalu-
NIKE ate lifecycle impacts • Will require all its apparel to meet the Consid-
(Nike internal tool) ered Standards by 2015
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abIlITy acTIvITIeS fOr The TexTIle SecTOr
STaTed gOalS and TIMelIne ParaMeTerS fOr SuPPly chaIn
Sustainable
emmisions
Materials
logistics
carbon
energy
Waste
Current goals are mainly for Scope 1 and Scope 2 and the
company is collecting data on its supply chain to define its
goals. aaaaa
a aa
17
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and Planning ahead
18
The evidence pointing to a new wave of sustainability is quite clear.
The analogy that we will offer again is that of quality and the move-
ment towards ISO 9000 in the early 1990s. By the mid-1990s the
entire industry knew about the savings possible from quality and by
end of the 1990s one had to be ISO 9000 certified to be in business.
• By the end of 2011 all major textile brands and retailers will
have announced initiatives that plan for working with a more
sustainable supply chain. Most of the firms are already imple-
menting measures within their own facilities and it is a matter
of months before they look to their supply chain which is where
the majority of the environmental footprint exists. We expect
the movement to move beyond the early adopters and into the
mainstream between 2012 and 2015.
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