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CAROLINA

BREW SCENE Fall 2018

OUR SALUTE TO
VETERAN-OWNED
CRAFT BREWERIES

Red,White
&Brew
300 YEARS: 1718-2018 we salute you pick your six

OCRACOKE veteran-owned ales from


CELEBRATES breweries beyond
BLACKBEARD across N.C. the crypt
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UPTOWN | 255 W Martin Luther King Jr Blvd | 704.371.4725
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2 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 3
BREWS
& ‘QUE
Just a hop, skip
& jump away -
Visit Goldsboro, NC

We’re home to historic ‘cue


with many of our BBQ joints
listed on the Historic BBQ Trail.
And if that wasn’t enough, our
growing number of tap houses
and craft beer rooms will leave
you wanting more.

Come taste for yourself!

visitgoldsboronc.com | 866.440.2245

4 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Issue no. 7 • Carolina Brew Scene ingredients

7 Editor’s Draft
Carolina Brew Scene salutes our veterans
8 GOLDSBORO BREW WORKS
What’s Brewing?
Air Force buddies take a chance to provide a local gathering spot
12 BRUTOPIA
A pair of homebrewers seize an opportunity to fill a void
16

20

WELL-TRAVELED BEER
Bar and bottle shop looks to keep expanding offerings
BLACKBEARD AT 300
Outer Banks establishments mark infamous pirate’s death
16
24 GAME DAY: N.C. STATE
Tailgaters relish in tradition as other fans gather at nearby brewpubs
34 FAINTING GOAT BREWING
Growing demand leads to expansion for Fuquay-Varina brewery
36 Veteran Owned Breweries
Where to find them all across North Carolina
40

43

RAILHOUSE BREWING
Brewery with statewide reputation has deep roots in a military community
TOP OF THE HILL
Chapel Hill institution builds on past history of success
40
46 PICK YOUR SIX
Ales from the Crypt matches brews to famous Carolina ghost stories
50 NC BEER GUYS
What’s old is new again in North Carolina’s brewing industry
52 HOMEBREW GUYS
How to launch a homebrewing project on a limited budget
54 BREW’S VIEWS: JOHN TRUMP

58

60
Large beer companies betting that consumers won’t pay attention
BLANCO LABELS
Pressure-sensitive labels sell themselves to Virginia brewing company
BITES & BREWS
8
Beer is always an easy and welcome addition to any recipe
62 DIRTBAG ALES
Small start with close-knit group leads to expanding business
63 Challenge of the Coin
Longtime tradition holds special meaning for members of the military
64 BRIGHT LIGHT BREWING Co.
Collaboration, community at heart of Fayetteville brewing operation
66 QUICKTRIGGER BREWING
Brewing hobby presents new avenue for Ahoskie family business
68 STOUTWHISPERER

70

A look at the darker side of craft brew offerings
TIGHT LINES
Brewery seeks to reflect history and culture of Crystal Coast
24
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 5
Orig inality
in every sip
and bite
Vanvisa and Vansana Nolintha have
poured their beliefs and passions into
Brewery Bhavana. Their newest gathering
place blends inspired dim sum with craft
beer, flowers and well-curated books
in a space that celebrates creativity. It’s
the kind of establishment you’d only find
in Raleigh, where talked-about chefs
and some of the country’s most original
restaurants are thriving.

Learn more at visitRaleigh.com/original.

6 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Carolina Brew Scene Editor’s Draft
Staff, Credits, & Contributions
Publisher

Our Salute to
Kyle Stephens
Editor
Gene Metrick
Content & Photography
Corey Davis
Veterans
Lewis Smith
Dave Tollefsen
Glenn Cutler
who brew
Lindell John Kay
Alan Campbell
Don Rowell Welcome to a special edition of Carolina Brew
Paul McDermott Scene.
Karen A. Mann As we have traversed the state over the past few
Nicole Boucher
John Trump years to bring you the latest news and developments
Corey Burton in the craft brewing industry, we noticed a trend
Jenny White — that more than a fair share of the emerging
Patrick Mason
Samuel Evers and expanding craft beer entrepreneurs in North
Jessie H. Nunery Carolina have been coming from the ranks of the
Dana W. Todd U.S. military.
Moddri Armstrong
James “Brad” Mitchell Both active-duty personnel and veterans have
been turning their personal passion for craft
Advertising brewing into successful business enterprises.
Bryan Wilson
Lewis Smith Often starting out small, many of them have seen
what was once a hobby blossom into a full-time
Design & Layout venture. And they have enjoyed success as they
Becky Wetherington
have continued to push ahead, persevere and
Contact flourish in their endeavors.
bwilson@rmtelegram.com But that’s only one part of the story.
lsmith@rmtelegram.com
Whether it’s providing a welcoming gathering
carolinabrewscene.com place for veterans or those currently serving in
the ranks, collaborating with other brewers for
On The Covers the benefit of all or supporting their communities
in a myriad of charitable undertakings, their
dedication to service to the common good
continues.
That’s not surprising.
It’s what they’ve always done during their
service to our country and continue to do for
their communities — building bonds, forging
ties, reaching out, giving back and taking care of
their own.
It’s in their nature. It’s what they do.
Photo by Steve Coad for John Hodge of Here are some of their stories.
NC State Athletics Well Travelled Beer
Photo by Alan Campbell
Carolina Brew Scene is a publication of the Rocky Mount
Telegram and Adams Publishing Group. Contents may not be
Gene Metrick
reproduced without the consent of the publisher. Editor

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 7


The bottle shop at Goldsboro Brew Works.

Goldsboro Brew Works


Story by Corey Davis
Photos by Alan Campbell

W hile stationed at Seymour


Johnson Air Force Base in
Goldsboro, Zak Fein and
Fein and Clark, who were both
F-15 aircraft mechanics at Seymour
Johnson, opened Goldsboro Brew
community was because the DUI
rate was terrible around here at one
point,” Fein said. “A lot of guys drove
Carson Clark quickly found out there Works: Taproom & Bottle Shop in to Raleigh, Wilson, Wilmington or
were limited options when it came to 2016 shortly after both decided during anywhere to get something to drink,
trying to find a place to relax and have the spring of that year to leave the Air and then they would try to drive back.
a drink. Force. We wanted to open a place for people
“There was nowhere at all around “Another one of our driving forces like us to not have to do that.”
here to get a good beer,” Fein said. of opening up something in the While starting any business is a risk,
Fein said he and Clark started Fein acknowledged it was even more of
experimenting making beer and a gamble since they were on active duty
brewing in his garage during their free in the military.
time. They believed for the longest “There was a lot of risk because there
time that the only way they could get had been some people that tried to start
good beer in the area was to make it craft breweries in the past in (Wayne)
themselves. Once Fein and Clark came county and fail completely and it never
to that conclusion, they started the worked out,” Fein said. “Also, it was
process of finding a place where they a huge risk because we got out of the
could open their own taproom. military, which was the absolute most
8 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

stable career we could have, to start the Fein & CLARKE our goal,” he said.
most absolute unstable career. Most According to the NC Craft Brewers
businesses fail in the first two years.” believed for Guild, North Carolina boasts the
Fein and Clark said their taproom largest number of craft breweries in the
sells a variety of craft beers. Fein said the longest South, with more than 260 breweries
Goldsboro Brew Works has 22 beers and brewpubs. The craft brew scene in
that it keeps constantly cold in bottles, time that the Eastern North Carolina has grown over
30 beers that are constantly rotated on the years.
tap and about 250 beers in the bottle only way they Fein said a lot of that has been
shop. spurred by the fact the industry is
Goldsboro Brew Works has been could get good saturated and because there are so many
converted from a homebrew supply breweries and pubs in big metropolitan
store with a fenced-in back patio to beer in the area areas like Raleigh and Asheville has
a taproom, bottle shop and barcade pushed people wanting to go into the
featuring ping pong ball machines, skee was to make it industry to look at other locations.
ball and other classic arcade games. It’s “The next thing you do is go
open seven days a week and has live
music every weekend.
themselves. out further and instead of going to
Asheville and starting that same dream
“We’ve gotten a great response,” he Clark said the next step is to start a that four other breweries started before
said. “We got regulars and we meet craft brewery but acknowledged they’re you, why not provide that service to
new people everyday. We’re constantly a little while off from making that the people that live around us now?”
getting Facebook likes, and we put happen. he said. “You can save yourself so much
billboards out there on U.S. 70 Bypass. “We’re still taking our time, and it money. Here, I’m a big fish in a very
People are seeing it and popping in on comes down to finances because it’s a small pond. In Asheville, I would have
their way to the beach.” very expensive endeavor — but that’s been the tiniest fish there.”

1) A mug of New England IPA at Goldsboro Brew Works.


2) Goldsboro Brew Works co-owner Carson Clark, right, talks
with Michael Krapcha, left, at the taproom and bottle shop in
downtown Goldsboro.
3) Will Pfau plays pinball in the game room at Goldsboro Brew 3
Works.
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 9
JOIN THE TEAM
We are always accepting new skaters, referees, and Non-Skating Officials (NSOs).
Don’t know anything about derby? No problem!
We will get you started and teach you everything you need to know.
To get involved, please contact info@capefearrollergirls.com.

For more information on the Cape Fear Roller Girls, visit us on Facebook or at www.capefearrollergirls.com

10 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Let's meet for a Beer
at the North Carolina State Fair!

Explore NC craft beer, cider, and wine


OPEN DAILY OCT 11-21    
HERITAGE CIRCLE    GATE 8
FACEBOOK.COM/OURSTATEPUBLICHOUSE

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 11


Brutopia
By Corey Davis

W hen a homebrew supply store


closed in the New Bern area,
a couple of guys with full-time jobs who
Club, had been brewing his own beer for
15 years.
As avid homebrewers, Dryden and
supply store.
“There is money to be made in home
brewery supply stores, but the turnover
were part of a well-established homebrew Conway said they saw a way of getting is pretty quick and it depends on how
club thought it was important to fill that into the craft brewery industry after a many people you have in your area,”
void by providing a destination for locals local family-owned homebrew shop Dryden said. “After doing the research
to drink craft beer. closed down, which opened the door for and talking to people that run homebrew
Tim Dryden and Bryan Conway something else to come into the area. shops, we found that you’ve got to have
opened Brutopia Beer Company in “Once that local homebrew shop some other sources of income or money
February 2016. Dryden, who spent 22 left because the family had to move to to help support it. We determined the best
years in the U.S. Marine Corps, works California, it left a hole in the area — so thing for us to do was to put in a bottle
full time on aircraft at the Fleet Readiness the only place to go really was online to shop in with the homebrew store, and that
Center East at the Marine Corps Air purchase anything,” Dryden said. “There evolved into a taproom and bottle shop.”
Station in Cherry Point. were no local stores where you could go An addition to the business, the owners
Dryden’s business partner, Conway, has in and get what you need, so opening a started brewing their own beer in February.
spent more than 20 years as a corrections homebrew shop was kind of a dream and Popular beers at Brutopia include New
officer for the state Department of Public more or less our vision originally.” England-style India Pale Ale and James
Safety’s Carteret Correctional Center in However, Dryden and Conway found City India Pale Ale. Brutopia also has 20
Newport. Dryden started brewing beer that having a homebrew shop wasn’t going to 25 additional beers that are made on a
in his home about five years ago and is an to be sustainable after talking to people rotating basis to avoid having one specific
active member of the Alcohol Through with experience in the craft brewery beer on tap. The changing menu allows
Fermentation (ATF) Homebrew Club, industry. Instead of just being a home customers to order something different.
which is where the men met. Conway, brewery supply store, Brutopia opened Brutopia is in the process of expanding
who is president of the ATF Homebrew as a bottle shop, taproom and homebrew operations by putting in a much
12 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

larger system that will allow it to start Dryden said downturn like we saw the last two years.”
distributing kegs in restaurants and other Dryden said Brutopia has tried to
places around the area, Dryden explained. Brutopia has embody an atmosphere similar to the
“We are all about bettering and building tried to embody popular TV show “Cheers” — knowing
the community and not just making all their regular customers when they
money,” Dryden said. “When it comes an atmosphere come into Brutopia.
down to it, when I sell you a craft beer, I
want you to understand, like wine, there similar to the When it opened two years ago,
Brutopia was a challenge to get off the
is so much more you can do with beer popular TV show
than just making it yellow and foaming ground with both men having day jobs,
it. When you drink most domestic beers, “Cheers” - knowing and there were no employees hired for the
they’re a little bland — and craft beer can all their regular first six months. But doing the leg work
be paired with so many things. helped the owners become more in tune
“Once you get them to try it and get customers when with the community.
them out of their comfort zone, you “We used to see some of the businesses
usually win them over.”
they come into
around town — you never knew who
Brutopia is located at 1201 U.S. 70 in Brutopia. the owners were and you only talked to
New Bern, 35 to 40 minutes away from
communities around us and most of them the bartenders,” Dryden said. “We made
the beach. But Dryden said their revenue
season is in the winter rather than the are boat owners and they love to sit on the it pretty apparent up front that we were
summer. water and on the beach. We also catch always going to be here in some form or
“It has turned out to be completely them going to and from the beach. With fashion because we wanted the community
opposite,” Dryden said. “It seemed odd, the release of our beers this year, business to know there is someone here that has a
but that how it works. We’ve got a lot of has been great. We haven’t seen that vested interest in the business.”

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 13


14 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
First impressions are made in 1/10th
second... We buy with our eyes.
Lasting impressions are made with quality and service.
Every week Blanco meets its commitments of millions of labels to manufacturers
depending on them. At Blanco we believe service is as important as quality.
We select our customers so that we can be a perfect fit. We are small enough for
their business to matter and large enough to make sure their job gets done.
“Blanco does what they say they will do. Blanco delivers.” Joe and Wendy
Hallock, Co-Owners and Founders, Chaos Mountain Brewing.

www.blancolabels.com/beer
1876 Apperson Drive, Salem, VA 24153
888-325-2626
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 15
A variety of beer and mead at Well Travelled Beer in Goldsboro.

Well Traveled Beer


Story by Lindell John Kay
Photos by Alan Campbell

N orth Carolina's first craft


beer shop can be found in
downtown Goldsboro.
atmosphere, Sam Hodge said.
"We have a very inviting bar," Hodge
said. "People come to our bar to meet
grab an extra six pack while out-of-state
can share a tasting of the beer with other
patrons.
Well Travelled Beer, a bar and bottle people." It's just another example of how WTB
shop, has everything from a growing Hodge said they're still looking to do patrons are a community, Hodge said.
assortment of craft beer, wine, sake everything better. Well Travelled Beer offers a $99 annual
and soda. Anything and everything for "We want more live music, more membership that allows drinkers to taste
someone who enjoys a little adventure in original local music," Hodge said. "We're more of what the world is brewing.
their glass. looking at a gaming night and other Each month, the owners hand pick
Located at 201 S. Center St., the shop events. We don't want to do the same tasty beers from North Carolina, the
is locally owned and operated by veteran things everyone else is doing." United States and around the world.
John Hodge and his brother Sam. They're off to a great start with their Styles of beers change but the owners
Along with its mass assortment popular Bottle Share. The bar can't sell promise it's well worth the price of the
of beers, what sets WTB apart from any beer from outside the state unless it's trip to Well Travelled Beer.
other establishments is its easygoing through a distributor. But patrons who Whenever limited beers come in,
16 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

members get first choice. Well Travelled Beer co-owner John


"It's a common occurrence that we Hodge pours a beer at the bar and
can only get 12 or 24 bottles of a given bottle shop in Goldsboro.
beer and we want to make sure our
members are covered," the owners said.
Members also get all WTB
merchandise at cost.
An annual membership makes a great
gift for a beer drinking friend or loved
one. The membership is perfect for folks
who like to explore, taste what's out
there and can't make up their minds.
Members get a new beer to try each
month. The beers come in six packs, four
packs, bombers or otherwise, depending
on the manufacturer.
"We have the best selection at the
best price," Hodge said.
Named for the brothers' love of
travelling and trying new beers — WTB
occupies a historical building constructed
in the 1870s. In its heyday, the building
housed a fine dining restaurant. The
site has also been home to several other
businesses, including a corner grocery
and an appliance store.

Well Travelled Beer at 201 S. Center St. in Goldsboro.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 17


18 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Local Brews
Local Grooves..
Good Moods
AS WELL AS OUR LIMITED RELEASE

Sour
enjoy your favorite
SOURS AND OTHER INCREDIBLE BOTTLED
In the beautiful THE
setting of
SOURS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
clean beer 7211 Market Street, Wilmington, NC BARN
www.BroomtailCraftBrewery.com/Sour-Barn
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 19
Northbound on Market: Turn left at the traffic light on Middle Sound Loop, then make your 1st right on Lendire Rd.
We have overflow parking behind our building or make a right onto Market St to access our front lot.
Ocracoke
celebrates
Blackbeard at 300
By Lindell John Kay

Trivia night question: What is The 2018 Blackbeard’s Pirate Blackbeard was killed off Springer’s
1718? Jamboree will be held Oct. 25-28. Point. The brewery’s logo is a variation
It's the year Blackbeard died and The event marks Blackbeard’s historic on Blackbeard’s signature flag, said
it's the name of a new brewery on last battle, fought off the shores of owner Jacqui Kalna.
Ocracoke Island. Ocracoke. A great bottle shop and taproom,
The Outer Banks island is Open for about a year, 1718 has a also on the island, is Zillie's, at 538
celebrating the 300th anniversary of great location at 1129 Irvin Garrish Back Road in Ocracoke, which offers
Blackbeard and 1718 Brewing Co. is Highway. an incredible selection of wines,
right in the middle of the pirate party. The brewery is named for the year micro brews and beers from around

20 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


the world. Zillie's is named after Barzilla celebration is highlighted by a live re-
In 2005, the owners of a small gift O'Neal, who lived on Back Road at enactment battle complete with ships
shop began selling specialty foods the turn of the 20th Century. and cannon fire.
and when that went well, craft beer The Blackbeard festival will allow
Brigand’s Bazaar, a popular vendor
and wines were introduced. Zillie’s is participants to travel back in time
fair, will set up shop in on the Wahab
widely regarded as one of the first mix and get a glimpse of the pirate life of
and match craft beer bottle shops in the 18th century with re-enactments, Estate Lawn in the heart of the party.
the country. The Back Road location magic shows music performances, The bazaar will have gift vendors with
was established in 2008. encampments and vendors. The crafts, pottery, jewelry and more.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 21


Dickinson Avenue Public House Christy’s euro Pub Jarvis street Bottle shop
703 Dickinson Ave 301 s. Jarvis st 211 s. Jarvis st
252.689.6388 252.758.2774 252.364.2840
daphousenc.com christyseuropub.com jarvisstreetbottleshop.com

TuesDAys $7 DAily sPeCiAls DAily sPeCiAls


$1 off Drafts TuesDAys TuesDAys
WeDnesDAys open Mic 20% off Wine
Half Price Beer Flights $7 PB&J (PBr and Jameson’s WeDnesDAys
Whiskey shot) 10% off Bombers
THursDAys
Half Price Wine Bottles THursDAys THursDAys
$5 Moscow & Kentucky Mule $1 off Growler Fill ups
oysTer HAPPy Hour
5:30 to 7pm Tuesday-Friday sATurDAys FriDAys
$4 sangria $.75 Domestic Cans
sunDAys sATurDAys
live Music $.50 off Craft singles
sunDAys
22 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018 $2 off Domestic 12 Packs
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 23
GAME DAY

Fans flock to nearby brewpubs


Story by Patrick Mason • Photos by Moddri Armstrong & Anthony “Brad” Mitchell

R ed and white, the colors of


choice for those out and about
on Hillsborough Street and
Glenwood Avenue in Raleigh were
many to come, as September beckons
cooler weather, seasonal beers and the
reason for so many early mornings and
long nights — football season.
swept up in the mania on Sept. 1.
Blythe, originally from pro-sports
town Atlanta, hopped on the college
fandom train and now follows all three
inescapable. For those wearing red shirts, hats Triangle schools and their sports teams.
It was as if a special occasion nudged with ‘Wolfpack’ stitched across the But with Duke playing the Friday
everyone to coordinate the sea of red top or just plain love watching their before and North Carolina across the
that flowed from one noisy watering local team, the start of football season country at California, N.C. State stole
hole to the next. beckons new hope. Just ask Daniel the stage as the only show in town on
It was college game day, the first of Blythe, a Raleigh transplant who was that Saturday.
continued on page 26
24 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Tailgaters continue fall tradition
Story by Samuel Evers • Photos by Moddri Armstrong & Anthony “Brad” Mitchell

T here aren’t many things that can


hypnotize tens of thousands of
people into waking up at the crack
of dawn, dressing in unison with the
Raleigh are again filled with red-
splotched Wolfpack fans, their coolers,
their grills and their red tents for much-
needed shade.
Of course, there’s another thing that
motivates people to participate in such
an activity.
The fact remains: Beer makes the
same color-themed shirts and sitting They line the outside of Carter- tailgate.
together in 95-degree weather for four Finley Stadium, creating a buzz of corn Even in craft brew-crazy North
hours. hole and hopes for a new season. That Carolina, though, the Coors Lights,
But football is certainly one of them. was the case on Sept. 1 for N.C. State’s Miller Lights, Bud Lights and so on
And it’s football season in ACC season-opener against James Madison were winning out as the drink of choice
country, which means Saturdays in University. on this particular early-season and early-
continued on page 27
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 25
continued from page 24
He watched the game from his at the many local bars and breweries “Either way,” he said. “It’s always a
apartment but raced to his favorite that dot the surrounding area of good time to go through the swings
hangout in the fourth quarter to be Carter-Finley Stadium. with people who all want the same
part of the celebration. All he needed When N.C. State needed a late thing — drink a good beer and watch
was the Wolfpack to hang on to keep field-length drive to put away a pesky
the good vibes going. James Madison team to escape with a win.”
“There’s something about football a season-opening win, the bar scene The last stop on a journey of
that brings all kinds together like reflected the victory. hangouts that could have taken days
no other sport does,” Blythe said, “Everyone’s in a better mood when to properly see it all was a popular spot
standing in front of Raleigh Beer your team wins,” said Devin Thomas, called The Players’ Retreat. A little off
Garden. “Basically you can yell at the who sipped on one of the rotating beers the beaten path from the stadium, the
TV, have a couple drinks, and fit right on tap from Wicked Weed Brewing at
PR offers a large menu and plenty of
in.” Backyard Bistro. “I normally watch
Raleigh Beer Garden boasts more the games here, but I had tickets to the beer on tap.
than 350 beers on tap, and the opener so I went in. You won’t find the rowdy football
multiple levels, as well as a spacious “It didn’t take long for me to find swarm that rolls through like a tornado
outdoor space, means it’s a welcoming my way here, though.” on game day, but instead will find a
place for sports fans with taste buds of Backyard Bistro is just down the long-lost haven from a different time
all kinds. street from the stadium, and is a where socializing and soaking up the
And as the Wolfpack clamored for popular hangout for Wolfpack fans.
solid footing in its season opener, the Thomas said the atmosphere was a company you keep is paramount.
stadium emptied as the game wore on, mix of excitement and doubters who Still, football fans dotted the lounge,
mostly due to the unrelenting heat. couldn’t fathom the thought of their cold drinks in hand, reveling in a new
Many of those fans followed the game team losing in Week 1. season with unlimited possibilities.

26 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


continued from page 25
morning Saturday, which preceded a woke up “at right about the crack of after was the best part. After you win,
noon kickoff for the Wolfpack. dawn,” Taylor said. Then they loaded everyone wants to celebrate. We even
But there were some glimmers the car and took the two-and-a-half snuck out to tailgate at halftime.”
of the industry that’s taken over the hour drive to Raleigh. They’ve done A few hundred feet away from those
state. Take Wolfpack fan and frequent that for almost every home game since two, a more high-key pregame was
tailgater Brett Moseley. In her college they moved. going on with a group of about a dozen
days, which ended with graduation in What keeps them coming back? current college students.
2013, she might have gone with the There’s the pregame, the game and the They were all for the Wolfpack.
quantity over quality approach; a light post game. Most went the light beer route. One
beer in one hand, and, perhaps, a light “I mean, it’s everything about the was holding an IPA from a local craft
beer in the other. experience of college football,” Taylor brewery.
Nowadays, it’s more simple: A few said. “The tailgate is obviously fun, In that regard, Jonathan Avery, a
craft beers before the game. This time, but it also gets you ready for the actual junior at N.C. State, was willing to be
the choice was a summer-friendly beer game. Seeing friends out in the parking different.
from a brewery in Virginia. lot, that gets you kind of pumped up. “’I’m a beer hipster,” he said. “I gotta
“We don’t go nearly as hard as we Once you get in there, you’re ready keep it classy.”
did in college, but we load up on a to go for the national anthem, the
select few,” she said. “But then again, fireworks, the kickoff.”
we weren’t very good back then. Now One night sticks out to both of
there’s more reason to enjoy the game.” them. It was a Thursday last season,
She and her husband, Taylor and the Wolfpack were playing host
Moseley, both 2013 graduates of to Louisville. Both took off work and
N.C. State, now work and live in made the trip. N.C. State won, and so
Richmond. That hasn’t stopped them did the tailgaters.
from watching the Wolfpack at Carter- “We beat them and it was the best
Finley. feeling in the world,” Brett said. “The
For the James Madison game, they stadium was going crazy. The tailgate

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 27


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28 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
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Open Daily
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Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 33


Fainting Goat
By Jenny White

N ews Alert: There are no


goats present at Fainting
Goat Brewing Company and Taproom
fainting goat’ and it just stuck,”
Reichert said.
Reichert and his business partner,
The expansion comes as high
demand for its flagship beers — Der
Hoof Hefeweizen, Brewquay DIPA
in Fuquay Varina’s downtown historic MaryAnn Durborrow, opened the and Butthead Brown Ale — has caused
district. Fuquay-Varina brewery in 2015, and the Fainting Goat Brewing Company
There could be some fainting. it’s been going strong ever since. to outgrow its current 2,500-square-
The brewery gets its name from In fact, Fainting Goat Brewing foot brewery and taproom.
owner Tim Reichert. In addition to Company is expanding. The company Reichert says the company
being a veteran, master brewer and recently announced it has purchased experienced rapid growth and success
having a great sense of humor, Reichert an 8,000-square-foot building in since opening in 2015, and the Fuquay
suffers from something called Laughter downtown Benson and will relocate location has reached its brewing
Induced Syncope, which — you and expand its brewing space to the capacity of 300 barrels per year. The
guessed it — causes one to faint when Benson location and open a second new brewery location will output about
laughing. taproom. The Fuquay-Varina space 1,000 barrels per year.
“My friends nicknamed me ‘the will remain open as a taproom. The newest Fainting Goat brewery

34 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

property will be located at the


corner of West Parrish Drive and
South Railroad Street in the former
Crossroads Church in Benson. It
will feature a tap room, patio and a
two-vessel, 10-barrel brewhouse. The
company’s current two-barrel brewing
system will be moved to Benson to
serve as a pilot system and used to
produce limited release, small-batch
beers.
Reichert says the company will
continue its green operations.
“All our spent grain is picked up by
a local cattle farmer to be used as feed,
and we have a 100-gallon cold liquor
tank housed in our walk-in cooler.
This tank cut our chilling water usage
by two-thirds, and we recycle hot
water generated by chilling wort to
clean equipment and fermenters,” he
said.
Construction on the first phase of
the new location began in September,
with brewing operations expected to
begin near the end of 2018.
Reichert says both taprooms will
have about 8-10 varieties on tap on a
daily basis.
“Though the brewery is moving, we
really wanted to continue being part
of the Fuquay-Varina community.
We’ve got a core group of customers
and friends that is steadily growing as
more people check us out. We don’t
offer Wi-Fi in our taproom and really
concentrate on building relationships,
getting to know one another and
promoting interacting with each
other, rather than via a phone,”
Reichert said.
“We’re a gathering place — with
really good beer,” he added.
The Fuquay-Varina location is open
Wednesday through Sunday. Check
their website at faintinggoatbeer.com
for times, what’s on tap and upcoming
events.
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 35
Veteran Owned Breweries

Frog Level Brewing Company Boondocks Brewing Tap Room Aviator Brewing Company
56 Commerce St, & Restaurant 209 Technology Park Ln,
Waynesville, NC 28786 108 S Jefferson Ave,
Fuquay Varina, NC 27526
BearWaters Brewing Company West Jefferson, NC 28694
101 Park St, Canton, NC 28716 Sugar Creek Brewing Company Fainting Goat Brewing Company
Hickory Nut Gorge Brewery 215 Southside Dr, Charlotte, NC 28217 330 S Main St,
461 Main St, Chimney Rock, NC 28720 Tobacco Wood Brewing Company
Fuquay Varina, NC 27526
Mica Town Brewing Company 117 Wall St, Oxford, NC 27565
25 Brown Dr, Marion, NC 28752 Barrel Culture Brewing and Blending Railhouse Brewery
4913 S Alston Ave, Durham, NC 27713 105 E South St, Aberdeen, NC 28315
36 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

Carolina Brew Scene is grateful to the NC


Beer Guys for providing us with the data to
create this map. Please visit ncbeerguys.com
to view all of their NC Beer maps.

Southern Pines Brewing Company Salty Turtle Beer Company Bills Front Porch
565 Air Tool Dr Suite E, Southern 103 Triton Ln, Surf City, NC 28445 4238 Market St, Wilmington, NC 28403
Pines, NC 28387 3rd Rock Brewing Company Waterline Brewing Co.
Dirtbag Ales Brewery & Taproom 134-B Industrial Park Dr, 721 Surry St, Wilmington, NC 28401
3623 Legion Rd, Hope Mills, NC 28348 Trenton, NC 28585 Check Six Brewing Co.
BrÜtopia 5130 Southport-Supply Rd SE,
Mug Shotz Cafe &
1201 US-70, New Bern, NC 28560 Southport, NC 28461
Quick Trigger Brewing Co.
Shortway Brewing Company 217 Brew Works
118 W Main St, Ahoskie, NC 27910
230 Chatham St, Newport, NC 28570 217 South St S, Wilson, NC 27893
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 37
NEW LOOK

113-B Goldsboro St., Wilson NC


@carolinabrewery (252) 991-7211

38 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


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Craft beer on tap • Beers Brewed with tropical fruits or Kona
coffee Beans • wines By the glass • rotating
A dream come true on guest taps from wilmington Breweries,
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Elm Street Rocky Mount NC 5850 Ocean Highway W.
Ocean Isle BeacH, nc

910.579.2739
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hours: closed monday,
tues-thur 12pm-7pm,
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• Strategic location off I-85 between Raleigh
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Among the distinctive properties currently available:

Visit HendersonBrew.com for more details, or call:


Dennis Jarvis, II • Director
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Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 39


Railhouse Brewery
By Jessie H. Nunery

E ven if beer lovers haven’t


made it down U.S. 1 into
the Moore County city of Aberdeen,
decades in the printing industry and
was a guest brewer in Ohio before
joining the veteran-owned staff at
advance for an active or retired
military member.
Fort Bragg is a 45-minute drive
chances are they’ve had a taste of the Railhouse. from Aberdeen, so the opportunity
town. Founders Brian Evitts (Navy) to put its roots in a military
Railhouse Brewery, which opened and Mike Ratkowski (Army), along community is something Railhouse
in 2010 as the first of its kind in with co-owners Jeremy Reynolds is proud to do.
Moore County, is distributed in all (National Guard) and Scott Birdsell “Being in the Sandhills area, there
100 counties throughout the state, (Army) have combined to make a is a military contingent that has
meaning its famous Brown Ale and visit to Railhouse one that can be retired to live here or is on active
Pale Ale are drinkable no matter appreciated from a military and duty,” said Fifield, who retired
where one lives. civilian perspective. from the Army after 24 years of
“We have people tell us over and There is a wall that honors fallen service. “That’s a fair amount of our
over that our Brown Ale is our best soldiers and plenty of flags, giving community, but we also try to make
ale,” Railhouse Head Cellerman the downtown Aberdeen location it all-inclusive and set up the best
Jason Hull said. “We’re proud of it, “a very Americana feel,” said Head product we can regardless of where
and when we hear those kinds of Brewmaster Dan Fifield, who is people are from.”
things, it means a lot.” accompanied by assistant brewer The beers tell the story.
Hull is sort of the outsider of Dave Robinson, also an Army vet. There is a Knight’s Golden Ale
what is a unique crew at Railhouse There is a long-standing tradition served in the summer which gives
Brewery. He spent more than two where patrons can buy a beer in reverence in name to Army parachute

40 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

There is a Knight’s Golden Ale


served in the summer which gives
reverence in name to Army parachute
team, the “Golden Knights.”
team, the “Golden Knights.” Everything is brewed on site.
KA-BAR, the name of its heralded Railhouse keeps its doors
Brown Ale, refers to the fighting open to the community, having
knife used in World War II by the recently participated in a teacher
U.S. Marines Corps. Railhouse uses appreciation day.
KA-BAR tap handles made from the Live bands play every Saturday,
knife’s factory in upstate New York. and the brewery holds large events
Railhouse also serves a Mastiff for July 4th and its birthday
Oatmeal Stout, an FCA IPA, the celebration in December.
popular Pineland Pale Ale (which It all makes for a laid-back
Fifield said was refined and tweaked atmosphere.
many times), and the EK Imperial “It’s a close-knit community,”
Red Ale. Hull said.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 41


Grab your official PassPork then hit the trail
to experience award-winning craft beer and
legendary Eastern NC BBQ. Collect your
stamps to earn some sweet trail swag!

42 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Top of the Hill
when you are drinking heavy AVB beers.”
TOPO gives a nod to UNC with its
popular Kenan Lager (4.2 AVB, $4.50, 10
oz.), the Belgian-style Old Well White (6.0
AVB, $4.50, 10 oz.) and the Ram’s Head
IPA (6.9 AVB, $5, 10 oz.)
The fall 2018 Session Series beer features
“Bees get Degrees,” which is a honey ale
(5.0 ABV, $4.50, 10 oz.).
Caracci, who is originally from
Pennsylvania before saying he “dumb-luck”
stumbled into his current position, said that
TOPO continues to kick around the idea
of introducing hazy and milkshake IPAs to
keep up with the latest crazes.
They recently introduced an American
stout that had not been on the menu.
Overall, TOPO goes through 1,500-
2,200 barrels of beer per year and even has
By Jessie H. Nunery had a cask beer program for the past six

A
years where unfiltered beers are served at
s far as locations go, Top of the heavy 9 percent AVB-type beers, this isn’t cellar temperatures.
Hill Restaurant and Brewery sets the place. Caracci said it is an acquired taste, but it
a standard. Freshmen and sophomores don’t drink often is a hit with UNC professors.
Not only does Top of the Hill sit in those, so at TOPO, you’ll find craft beer TOPO tries to hit everyone’s taste buds,
the most prime of locations on Chapel on the more affordable, less gut-filling end and the plan is to continue not only its
Hill’s famed Franklin Street, but it also is of the spectrum than you might in other relevancy by location, but by glass.
an essential gathering spot for students, locales. “We want to keep our signature beers but
faculty and staff at the University of North “Most of our clientele are students who also expand to something different to drink
Carolina. are 21-22 years old,” Caracci said. “We want and different to brew,” Caracci said. “We are
With that type of clientele visiting the them to have 3-4 beers, and you can’t do that certainly university-forward.”
restaurant on a daily basis — especially
on fall football Saturdays and big home
basketball games throughout the winter —
Top of the Hill has been able to maintain
relevancy.
It began brewing beer in 1996 and
is the eighth oldest brewery in the state.
Despite the current climate of breweries
opening shops and distributing beer, Top of
the Hill — known to locals at TOPO —
only distributes to one location in nearby
Carrboro.
If you want their good beer, you’ll just
have to deal with grabbing a glass and
taking it to their famed rooftop overlooking
Chapel Hill.
“That’s the biggest draw,” Top of the Hill
Brewmaster Aaron Caracci said. “On a nice
day, you can’t beat it.”
The beer is excellent, too, and if you want
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 43
Check Six
Brewing
Company
5130 Southport Supply Rd
Southport NC
910-477-9280
checksixbeer.com
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44 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


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980.277.4010
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Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 45
Part II: Brews from beyond the Grave
by Lewis Smith

If you grew up in North Carolina during a certain era, your elementary school library was probably full of books of North
Carolina ghost stories written by Nancy Roberts, which provided evocative sketches of North Carolina’s supernatural history.
It’s just the kind of thing for impressionable 6-year-olds to be reading, because in those days before things like “parental
supervision,” tales of grisly death and spectral wanderings weren’t gonna cause that much harm to an impressionable child’s
mind, right?
Struck by a sudden burst of nostalgia and looking for another hook for a Halloween article, we here at BrewScene decided
to pair six ghostly tales with six goodly ales and see if a little magic couldn’t be made.
So gather round the fire and hand us that flashlight — it’s time to get spooky.

The Story: The Beer: Beam Me Up


Virginia Dare, (Skull Camp Brewing, Elkin)
the White Doe
If you’ve spent five minutes in If any of you think that I might know what I’m doing,
North Carolina, I hope you tried the consider this: I spent 25 minutes trying to work out
barbecue. If you spent ten minutes why a Scotch ale would be called “beam me up.” I
here, you’ve probably heard about the did get there in the end, but it was a
Lost Colony, our famous legend involving little embarrassing it took so long.
disappearing colonists, culture clashes This was my first Skull Camp
with the First Nations and tree beer, and it’s pretty great. A
vandalism on lovely Roanoke Island. sweet initial taste yields to
One of the many explanations proffered a sugary, sweet finish. It’s
for what became of these vanished souls eminently drinkable and the
posits that the first child born to this sweet flavor is balanced
colony, Virginia Dare, was cursed by enough that it doesn’t
a sorcerer named Chico and turned overstay its welcome
into a white doe, who was then It’s a perfect middle of the
hunted by two guys with magic road beer for when you
arrowheads and then turned want something a little
into scuppernong grapes — heavier than the norm but
because sure, that’s how don’t want to go too far to
all of that works. the dark side. A very solid
beer, indeed.
The Story: The Rum Keg Girl The Beer: Ephemere
From the town of Beaufort comes a story that (Unibroue, Quebec, Canada)
Edgar Allan Poe is probably kicking himself that
he didn’t think of. It’s a tale of the family Sloo who From the great white north comes a
sailed to North Carolina to start a new life. Just great white ale. A very light but flavorful
after they settled in however, combination of wheat and
the family sailed back to apples, it has a very
England, promising to return pleasant flavor and
to Beaufort no matter what. interestingly enough,
On the way back, one that doesn’t veer
unfortunately, the daughter fell into being a cider.
ill and passed away. Not wanting to bury her at A sharp, tart, apple taste gives
sea because of his promise to return her to North way to a sweet finish. It’s very
Carolina, the father sealed her up in a keg of light all around and not at all
rum to preserve her body for the voyage home. bitter and would be ideal for
Not wanting to unseal the barrel and transfer the a time when you want
body to a casket, she was buried something pleasant
in Beaufort — still in the keg, but and sweet, without
home at last. an extremely
It’s said that on the right kind of intrusive flavor to
night, her ghost runs and plays it.
among the headstones of the An interesting
cemetery and scatters offerings style of beer I’ll
left at her tomb all over the have to try to
headstones. Because that’s explore more
what kids do, whatever side of in the
of the veil they happen to future.
be on.

The Story: Blackbeard's Ghost The Beer: III Rye Tripel (Neuse
If you remember last issue's Pick Your Six you will
River Brewing Co, Raleigh)
recall we had some fond words for North Carolina's This one felt like an event (it's
most infamous pirate, Edward Teach, aka the first beer I had with a wired
Blackbeard. cork opener) and boy, was it ever.
After his last stand, wherein his entire
Neuse River Brewing took an already
crew was captured and killed, Blackbeard
was shot five times, stabbed 20 times, impressively strong Rye Tripel and
then beheaded (just in case he was a aged it for six months in rum barrels
Highlander) The victorious ship hung from Raleigh Rum Co.
his head from their bowsprit, because To give you an idea of what that's
we were centuries away from Xbox like, imagine someone rigged up a hot
achievements. rod with a solid rocket booster and
His headless body was drove it right into your head. Yes my
dumped at sea, and people, this is pretty darn strong —
it is said his ghost 11 percent ABV — and it's pretty
wanders around amazing. A light initial taste yields to
Teach's Hole in
the rum flavor and when it hits, it hits
Ocracoke, calling
for his head. How very hard indeed.
it does this without Despite that, though, it doesn't feel
a larynx is one as heavy as, say, a Russian Imperial
of those logical stout, so it's easy to sip, though it will
thingies that pack quite a wallop. Quite an amazing
legends tend find and well worth a pour, assuming
to brush past you don't have any plans for the rest of
in the story- the day.
telling.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 47


The Beer: Papaver
(Brewery Bhavana, Raleigh)
From the hot new brewery in
Raleigh comes this interesting
beer, a sumptuous Cabernet
barrel-aged Flanders Red.
It’s amazingly tart all the
way through (as anything
with black cherry and red
currants is liable to be), but
it has an intriguing finish,
with a few complex flavors
The Story: Dromgoole Rock lingering on the palate.
This beer was really
The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill is known for intriguing, in that it
many things, and if a die-hard Duke fan was writing this article, seemed to become a more
we wouldn't be able to print any of them. But besides storied
rewarding experience the
college basketball rivalries, there's also this legend that takes
place near Piney Point, near Gimgoul Castle: longer I drank it. It tempts
Peter Dromgoole (UNC-Chapek Hill Winner For Most Metal the palate to explore the
Name of All Time, 1831) loved a girl from town called Fannie different tastes present.
and fought a duel with another student over her (this is before Also, if you have a friend
we settled these by shooting a beer bong, like gentleman do) who’s into wine but might
Peter lost (or, to be more accurate, died) and, as dueling was be a bit beer-curious, this
strongly frowned upon in those days — colleges have always is an ideal middle ground,
been down on murder, funnily enough — was hastily buried as it’s not too heavy on the
under a rock rolled over a freshly-dug grave. Because out of beer side, nor too rich as a
sight, out of mind, right? wine.
That worked about as well as you imagine it would — Peter's
This was my first Bhavana
absence was hastily noticed, not least by Fannie, who died
soon after, stricken with grief. It's said that one can still see beer, and they certainly
their shadows lingering close to the still blood-stained rock live up to the hype. I quite
today. recommend it.

The Story: The Maco Light

It's said that not all heroes wear capes.


It's rather hard to if you don't have a neck.
Signal man Joe Baldwin was having a nap
in the caboose of a train when it suddenly
detached from the other cars, heading for
another engine down the line. Desperate to
avoid a crash, Joe stood on the platform,
waving his lantern.
Joe was decapitated by the crashing train
and his head was launched into the nearby
swamp. For more than a century, people
walking the tracks at night claimed that you
could see Joe waving his lantern alongside
the train tracks, searching for his missing
head.
In 1977, the tracks were pulled up, and the
light disappeared.

48 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


The Story: The Hoofprints At Bath The Beer: Devil’s Tramping
Ground Tripel
We close out our macabre half-dozen with a tale of drunken hubris
(Aviator Brewing,
from the town of Bath. Jesse Elliot enjoyed drinking, racing his horse
(often while drunk) and boasting about how he never lost a race (again, Fuquay-Varina)
often when drunk)
One day Jesse is challenged to a race by a man in black, who is totally I know the Devil’s Tramping Ground is in Siler
not the Devil. Devlin McNotsatan rode a big black horse with burning City, but the description of both phenomena
red eyes, probably called Symbolism, or maybe Comeuppance. was too close not to match this one to the
Jesse's horse stopped dead in his tracks mid-race and reared up on story.
its hind legs, causing Jesse to lawn dart right into a tree, killing him This is a mighty tripel for sure, and it wastes
instantly. The man in black apparently dragged Jesse's soul to hell soon no time getting right the heck on top. A very
after, having achieved rich initial taste hits hard and soon yields to a
his recommended daily syrupy-sweet finish, which is very drinkable.
allowance of irony. I suppose that’s part the devil’s bargain in
The hoof prints where drinking it though, as
Jesse's horse stopped it’s so sweet that
dead are said to be you can down it
permanently etched very fast and
into the earth at Bath, not realize it’s
and that nothing grows 9 percent ABV.
where the horse stood. And you will
As for Jesse, while (eventually)
he was condemned feel that. Boy
to an eternity in Hell, howdy, will you
he would later be ever.
retroactively awarded It’s a very
the first Darwin Award impressive
when the internet was beer, and well
invented, 183 years worth trying.
later.

The Beer: Off With Her Red


(Fortnight Brewing, Cary)

Fortnight does a great job with And there you have it:
contrasting flavors in ways that are A spectral sextet of som-
intriguing and surprisingly precise, and
this beguiling raspberry sour ale is no
ber stories and sublime
exception. A tart initial taste gives way suds. If you were looking
to a dry and very sweet finish. for some old guy to be
It'd be easy to go overboard with thwarted by some ston-
the sourness (it's got raspberries in ers in a van and their
it after all) but there's a balancing of dog, well, I don’t know
the tartness of the raspberry and the
dryness that makes for a pleasant mix.
what to tell you. But as
Sours aren't usually my main thing, but to the rest of you — grab
I found this an eminently drinkable beer a pint. In fact, grab two.
— flavorful, but not too bitter or tart. It's You never know when
a light and refreshing beer, ideal for a the ghosts might turn
high-humidity late summer night. up…

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 49


Small is the New Big (Again)
By Glenn Cutler and Dave Tollefsen

A round us, we're seeing


the first signs of summer
easing its way into fall.
It brings to mind how
so much of the world is cyclical.
Beer is no exception to this — styles
open a brewery here back in the mid-
80s, he encountered a few logistical
snags preventing him from attaining his
dream. Working with state politicians,
he pushed legislation allowing
microbreweries to sell their own beer
started just a few years after “Pop the
Cap” was passed in 2005. WOO HOO!
Breweries can brew beer up to 15
percent!
The growth of breweries spurred the
growth of bottle shops and growler-
come and go, only to come back around on site. The 90s saw a few breweries filling stations that focused on only craft
again. The whole experience of beer in open and close around the state. The beer. Only a few breweries in the state
North Carolina has seemed to follow a competition at this point was the had their product available for shelves.
circuitous path, and by seeing where it's acceptance of craft beer against the long The pace of growth in beer varieties,
been, we might just get a peek at where held staple of “Big Beer” plus the price volume brewed and the sheer number
it's going. difference of buying local. Additionally, of operating breweries meant that
The very first brewery in North there was a hard cap of 6 percent ABV competition grew ever fiercer. Shelves
Carolina opened in 1774, called Single the brewers had to observe, limiting had to be rearranged or increased to
Brother’s Brewery and Distillery on offered styles. The session and wild handle all this new product. Tap space
Old Shallowford Road in Salem (didn’t beers you see now weren’t on the radar now became a premium; even with 16
even have the “Winston-” yet). Growth back then. Availability of local beer taps, the amount of product available
was relatively sedate for the next few was mostly limited to the breweries meant a hard choice for the store owners
hundred years, with Prohibition all but themselves. The passion was to grow but on who to carry — and who gets left
annihilating North Carolina beer. there was a lot to overcome. out. This was fantastic for the store
When Uli Bennewitz wanted to The exponential growth of breweries owners to have so much selection, but

50 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


not so great for breweries trying to sell quality and creativity are in place. It’s push their biggest return — their own
their beer. the amount of product now available draft sales. Why fight for shelf and tap
Enter canning with its improved that may have a saturation issue. space while taking a hit on margins
quality, availability and the growth of when they can keep most of it right
mobile canning. Breweries of all sizes at the brewery? Granted, that means
were able to can and get their product
Best way to
building up traffic in their taproom to
on more shelves. Bottle shops filled with support the make up for sales not elsewhere. Staying
a great selection of craft beer - so much small, however, grows their profits and
so that it’s almost sensory overload when breweries -
eventually the whole business.
browsing the shelves. explore the state This smaller-is-better trend is
Of course, with any type of product expressing itself in the newest offerings
that gains so much popularity, the larger and visit them.
coming around the bend. More
stores want to get in on the action too. Breweries are and more of the new openings are
Supermarkets started carrying local
destinations well nanobreweries producing only a barrel
product, with some even offering beer
or two a batch. Restaurants are getting
on tap. Craft beer EVERYWHERE! Isn’t
that the dream? For the consumer, yes —
worth the visit in on the act, brewing their own lines of
but behind the scenes it’s competition. and you get to see house beers only available within their
As more breweries open and are able walls.
to can their beer and distribute, there the wonders of Best way to support the breweries
— explore the state and visit them.
is the potential for it to get ugly. You North Carolina Breweries are destinations well worth
know how it goes — “Human sacrifice,
dogs and cats living together ... mass along the way. the visit and you get to see the wonders
hysteria!” Maybe not quite that, but you of North Carolina along the way.
get the picture. This is not to say there’s Now there’s a new thought going Where do you see the industry going
an oversaturation issue with breweries. around: hyperlocalization. Breweries next? Let us know on Twitter and
We believe there’s plenty of room for a limit their distribution, sell their own Facebook at @ncbeerguys or via e-mail
brewery on every corner — as long as bottles and cans in-house and really ncbeerguys@gmail.com.

October 20th
Journey of Hope Ride for Breast Cancer
November 24th
26th annual ride to the Kennedy
Children’s Home
Line-up begins at 10 a.m, departure at 12 noon.

$15.00 donation
Due to the wide range of ages of the residents, cash or gift certificates are welcomed.
Donations and gifts will be presented at the Kennedy Home. There will be 50/50,
Door Prizes, and lunch. First 1000 registrations will receive a commemorative chip.
FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL (252) 633-4060

http://www.harley-davidsonnewbern.com
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 51
Homebrew Guys

“Build It and You Shall Brew”


By Don Rowell and Paul McDermott

S ometimes we have a tendency


to put the cart before the horse
or argue which came first, the
chicken or the egg. (Chicken!) We’ve
you need to acquire is a fermenter, a
siphon, bottling bucket, bottles, caps
and bottle capper. All of this can be
purchased as a kit for under $75. Once
and out of most peoples budget. It
seems as if companies come out
with new gadgets everyday to make
homebrewing easier.
written several articles on how to brew, you have your equipment starter kit Like we said earlier, when we started
what to brew, bottling issues, but and ingredients kit, your ready to go! off, we were penny poor and built a
nothing in-depth on what you need to (On how to brew, see Homebrewing lot of things ourselves. We were “old
get started other than an ingredients 101 in the Summer 2017 Issue). As school” and brewed “old school”. For
kit. In this issue we’ll discuss some mentioned before, homebrewers tend the most part we still do. We’re still
equipment you may need to brew from to grow their brewery over time to using the same direct-fired mashtun
bare bones to “wow!” and from deep absorb the costs of new equipment. If and boil kettle we’ve been using for the
pockets to penny poor. you have the cash up front, there are all last 10 years. Of course we’ve added
Don’t be intimidated about getting kinds of nice equipment on the market. vessels, pumps, quick connects, etc. over
into homebrewing because you think Complete systems with electronic the years. Building your brewhouse or
you can’t afford it. There’s nothing controllers, heating elements, pumps, upgrading your brewhouse to a larger
further from the truth. When we started temperature-controlled fermenters, size can be done cheaper than you may
brewing, we were penny poor to say you name it. They even have systems think if you put your head to it and do
the least. So listen to us, we’re speaking out there that are an all-grain all in it over time.
from experience. To get started, you one brew system and fermenter. That’s We’ll use our personal journey into
probably already have the majority of right, only one vessel! Some of these homebrewing to give examples of how
the equipment you need right at home. systems are so nice they will almost
You’ll need a decent size cooking pot, brew by themselves. Of course a lot of
stove, stirring spoon and funnel. All these systems cost thousands of dollars

52 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


you can build your brewery or expand Our system is do all the things we have done. Keep
to a larger size on the cheap. We started in mind these upgrades took place over
with a turkey fryer kit doing 5-gallon nothing fancy, 10 years so the cost remained relatively
extract batches. These kits are perfect low and each vessel we did ourselves.
because they come with a burner and nothing shiny and There are may things you can buy for
stainless steel pot typically big enough pristine, but we homebrewing to make your life easier,
to make 5-gallon batches. Another but there are just as many things you
great benefit is that these kits are fairly take pride in the can do yourself to keep the costs down.
inexpensive. Now keep in mind that Spend the money where you need to
this is not a duel purpose vessel. No fact that we built and put a little thinking, paired with
turkey frying in this pot, brewing only! it ourselves and a little elbow grease to the things you
Then we wanted to go to 10 gallons can do yourself. Our system is nothing
and found a damaged 15.5-gallon it has rewarded fancy, nothing shiny and pristine, but
commercial keg. We didn’t have the we take pride in the fact that we built
ability to cut and drill the keg, nor the us with a many a it ourselves and it has rewarded us with
money to pay a machine shop to do a many a fine beer! Having to build
it. So, we found a local guy in town
fifIne beer! our brewhouse was a big part of our
to do what we needed and paid him cheep ice coolers and converted them homebrew journey. It taught us a lot
in trade with homebrew. We then put into a mashtun and hot liquor tank in about brewing, how to think outside
the ball valve fittings on ourselves and order to move into all-grain brewing. the box and most importantly about
voilà; we had a 10-gallon brewhouse We eventually found more damaged ourselves. We wouldn’t have changed a
for little money. We used (and still us) commercial kegs and upgraded to all thing! Til’ next time…happy brewing,
the same burner that came with the stainless steel vessels and a propane happy holidays and may your dreams
turkey fryer kit with the new converted burner for each vessel. You can find a be filled with the “Complete Joy of
kettle. Then we bought a couple of lot of how to videos online to help you Homebrewing”.
Cheers!

Open Located at the


7 days a week! Rocky Mount Mills

Locally owned and operated! We carry a variety of craft beer and cider from all over, featuring a local North
Carolina section. Come build your own 6 pack or grab a bottle of wine today! Be sure to try one of our 11 rotating
taps, house wine or cider. Find us on Facebook at Goat Island Bottle Shop or give us a call at 252-545-6521

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 53


Brew’s Views

What’s craft beer, really?


By John Trump

W hat’s craft beer, really?


Is it made
distributed locally? Or is so-called
and
incentivize their products go down
like a swig of bad ghost pepper stout.
“I think what they've decided to do
“stealth” craft, mass produced and long ago was, they can't be sexier than
distributed internationally? our brand, but what they can do is
It’s becoming increasingly tougher capitalize on the convenience of their
for consumers to discern between distribution networks, their incredible
the two. Beer labels are vague and amount of advertising dollars and all
nonspecific in regard to who really the other stuff,” Todd Ford says. “So,
makes the beer — unlike labels on they can buy craft breweries ... and
spirits, in which the word “distilled” actually become owners in the craft
offers insight into where it’s made; beer industry, if not organically then
or wine, which lists on the label the directly by purchasing. And then
region where the grapes were grown. they can take those brands, which
For the uninformed beer consumer, seven years, and I can't tell you who have a good following in the craft
it’s largely a guessing game. makes these beers a lot of times. I beer industry, and turn them into
That said, consumers ultimately can't keep up with it. If you look at international brands, brands that help
decide what beer to buy. The large the back of the label, you're not going the bottom line in Brazil and Belgium
brewers are right when they say to find anything that clears up the and other places, even though they're
more brands mean more choice. True mud. I think that's the point. … The not sold there.”
competition means a marketplace free large breweries have taken the ability Craft beer guilds and associations
and open to all without restriction. to muddy the field, and they've used are inventing ways to differentiate their
It’s tough to disagree. But it’s it to their advantage." products. The Brewers Association,
important to pay attention. The stealth market isn’t new. for example, has come up with a seal
Big beer companies aren’t As I wrote last year, big brewers — an upside down bottle symbolizing
transparent, nor are they required to are gulping down craft brewers to how craft brewers have turned the
be. get in the game, an apparent effort to industry, well, “upside down.” Brewers
It’s not easy for even the most offset waning sales for mass-produced in Charlotte will soon adorn their
zealous lover of beer to stay on top of adjuncts. products with a red cap reading “CLT
things, but, as drinkers who care about As the Charlotte Business Journal Certified Beer,” the Carolina Business
beer — and about craft — we should says in a recent story, five beer makers Journal reported.
try. Then, all things now considered, own more than 50 percent of the These initiatives are worth noting,
we can choose — whether that choice worldwide market, and those brands, and they may well help the craft
is NoDa’s Hop Drop n’ Roll or Goose obviously, dominate supermarket brewers.
IPA, now made by Anheuser-Busch shelf space. Incentive programs from But, again, it’s the buyers who
InBev. big brewers, who award distributors will decide what beer to buy and
"That's always the case, right?” says who place and sell large percentages from where, and there are myriad
Todd Ford who, along with his wife, of a client’s product, further tilt the options. Many grocery stores have
Suzie, founded NoDa Brewing Co. in proverbial field. decent selections, and some stores are
Charlotte. “It ultimately falls on the Ford and his fellow craft brewers exceptional in that regard. But — and
consumer to do their research and do don’t necessarily debate the quality of beer geeks already know this — people
their homework, and what the big beer produced by the big guys, or how new to beer should get to know their
companies are counting on ... is that those brewers make the beer. neighborhoods, to seek out niche
they won't. Yet sometimes the big brewers’ retailers, bottle shops and tap houses.
“I'm in the industry, been there for ability to promote, market and To visit their local breweries.

54 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Ford doesn’t fault everything. Does it change
brewers who sell to
large corporations and
the beer? No, the beer's
probably the only thing
START YOUR SATURDAY
conglomerates. Why not
capitalize on that interest?
it doesn't change, at least
initially. … But ultimately
WITH A BANG!
Why not take advantage of
a free market that rewards
what changes the day they
sign on the line is they MOTHER EARTH BREWING
entrepreneurship
innovation?
and aren't independent.
"I think there are a vast
IRONCLAD 5K & HALF MARATHON
When, that is, lawmakers majority of people who
allow it.
Ford and NoDa are part
are, like, ‘Hey, I care where
my money goes. I'd like to
CANNON START
of an ongoing lawsuit filed
against the state seeking
spend it locally ... especially
if (a product is) just as good
@ 7:30AM
to end enforcement of the
if not better than what I SIGN UP AT IRONCLADRACES.ORG
state’s distribution cap —

SATURDAY, OCT. 20, 2018


now at 25,000 barrels per would get from a big box
year — and franchise laws store that sells things by
on breweries. the pallet load versus by
"I support anybody that the case. ... I would like to
makes a decision on how to know who makes this and
run their business,” Ford where that money's going.
says. In that case, I think we're
He offers a caveat for going to win. …”
brewers who sell to a bigger John Trump is author of
concern. “Still & Barrel: Craft Spirits
"If you do make that in the Old North State.” He
decision, it does change lives in Cary.

COME SHOW YOUR SUPPORT


FOR EASTERN NC BUSINESSES
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 55
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Come check out our ever-growing
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56 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


THE CENTER OF IT ALL

Rocky Mount, N.C.


has a lot to offer:
• A 143-acre Sports Complex featuring
volleyball, basketball and baseball
courts, walking trail, disc golf
and more.

• The multipurpose Rocky Mount


Event Center, a premier
destination for athletes, families,
and concert goers.

• Imperial Centre for the Arts and


Sciences with an Arts Center,
Children’s Museum and Science
Center, community performing
arts theatre and an Arts
Education Building.

• A host of regional events, like


Juneteenth and the Eastern
Carolina BBQ Throw Down.

For all that Rocky Mount has to offer, visit


www.rockymountnc.gov.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 57


Parkway Brewing
Converts
Labeling Process

By Dana W. Todd

With the frenzy of craft brewery grand Brewing Company, which has been in “I used cut and stack my entire
openings coming to a close, the ever-evolving business since 2012. “Now there are 230.” career, and I have had my feet wet
industry is showing signs of maturation. As one of the “seasoned” players since 1982 when I joined the bottled
Although it is still growing, there is in Virginia, as least as far as the craft water industry,” says Parkway Brewing’s
some deceleration as brewery closings brewing industry goes, Parkway Brewing packaging manager, Paul DeLuise. “So
increased over the last two years, according is maturing in its processes. Earlier this I was against switching to PSLs at first.”
to the annual State of the Craft Brewing year, the company decided to change over After further internal discussion,
Industry presentation at the 2017 Craft its labeling production process, including however, DeLuise changed his mind and
Brewers Conference & BrewExpo the type of labels it uses on about 25 decided PSLs were the right labeling choice
America. The craft breweries that remain different brews it produces annually. for Parkway Brewing’s current situation.
are maturing in their production processes, Since the company’s inception, it has “There was no learning curve with
marketing, and customer service — the used traditional cut and stack labels on its PSLs,” he says, “but we did discuss keeping
way an emerging company becomes a bottles. Some in the company felt it was room on the line for a glue machine (for
well-established company in any market. time to explore making a change to pressure- cut and stack labels). We threw it out
“When I began working in the industry, sensitive labels (PSLs) to take advantage because we ultimately didn’t need it.”
there were about a dozen breweries in of expanded marketing capabilities and Parkway Brewing chose Blanco, a label
Virginia,” says General Manager and perhaps cost-saving benefits. Others were and labeling equipment supplier just a
Brewmaster Mike Pensinger of Parkway not as quick to jump on the bandwagon. couple of miles down the road in Salem,

58 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Virginia, to supply materials, equipment
and service for the changeover. Both
DeLuise and Pensinger said choosing
a reputable supplier was the most
important consideration when changing
the labeling process and materials.
“Blanco is our customer, too, and
Parkway Brewing likes to buy local
when possible,” says Pensinger. “Plus,
Blanco set up our existing labels for
free, helped us finance a lower price
on our new labeling equipment, and is
right down the road if we need service.”
Although there are benefits to both
types of labels, ultimately Parkway
Brewing felt PSL’s benefits outweighed
cut and stack labels for its particular
needs. There were four main reasons
pressure-sensitive labels became the label-
of-choice for the expanding brewery.
• Creative and Design Flexibility: “I appreciate the fact I can just stop the mentioned, Blanco and Parkway Brewing
While Parkway Brewing was required equipment and go home, without waiting are practically neighbors and have forged a
to buy at least 30,000 cut and stack for cleanup to be done,” DeLuise says. good working relationship. As a dealer of
labels at a time, PSLs have a smaller • Intuitive Machinery: There is no Pack Leader labeling equipment, Blanco
minimum order quantity, which allows learning curve using PSLs and machinery provided affordable financing for Parkway
the brewery to produce short runs of a few such as Pack Leader’s PL-501 fully Brewing to complete the changeover that
thousand bottles of each specialty brew. automated labeler, according to DeLuise. it could not otherwise have managed.
“We buy enough labels to reduce costs “The whole process is easier with PSLs “We are not trying to make a huge profit
and save money in the long run and and PSL applicators,” says Kurt Webber on labeling equipment,” says Webber,
then divide up those labels to package a of Blanco. “Changeover times are faster, who deals in PSL labeling equipment
variety of different brands. With shorter which is a big plus for shorter runs. PSL simply so his customers can trust Blanco
runs, we are able to individually print equipment is very simple to operate and labels will work well with the equipment.
and number specialty brews and be not overly mechanical so it doesn’t require Blanco also provides service and parts,
more creative in the type of labeling the amount of maintenance and expensive so Parkway Brewing feels secure that any
materials we choose,” says Pensinger.
part changes that cut and stack labelers do.” needs will receive immediate attention.
According to Avery Dennison, the
• Sense of Community: As previously Although it is only a few months
manufacturer who makes the label material
used by Blanco and Parkway Brewing, since the changeover, DeLuise says
PSLs are perfect for “creating look-at-me Parkway Brewing is embarking on a
labels with eye-catching color, standout project it would not otherwise have been
imagery, unique shapes, and surprising able to do with its old cut and stack
textures.” The company explains further equipment — produce labels for cans.
that pressure-sensitive labeling makes it According to Avery Dennison, cans are
easier for smaller beer brands to compete on being increasingly used instead of bottles
the shelf with specialty printing techniques because of the efficiency of the packaging
likes foiling, embossing and varnishing. process and a larger surface area available
• Lower Labor Cost: Although the for printing branding messages and logos.
per piece price of a pressure-sensitive “We will be able to run the
label is slightly more expensive than the can right through the equipment
alternative, DeLuise says one reason PSLs and add the label,” DeLuise says.
are less expensive in the long run is the lower The new-found flexibility of PSLs
labor and consumable costs associated means the creativity door is now wide
with these labels. They do not need glue to open for Parkway Brewing, which has
adhere to bottles, which saves a minimum always hired local artists to create its
of one to two hours of manpower per day. labels. Now the artists will have even more
Cut and stack labelers have to be cleaned freedom for ingenuity and inspiration.
mid-stream and at the end of each day Dana W. Todd is a professional writer and
to remove glue residue, a maintenance public relations consultant who writes for
service that is not needed for PSL labelers. news outlets and publishers nationwide.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 59


Bites & Brews

the secret to
Perfect
Pairings
By Nicole Boucher

I’ve got a secret about cooking with beer.


A big one.
And I’m going to share it with you my beer-infused adventure ... and that’s favorite craft beer. The result will be an
right now: You don’t need a recipe. OK. You don’t always need a plan — impressive richness and depth of flavor,
I mean, sure, you probably need a sometimes the best dishes are made like your soup’s been simmering on the
recipe if you’re going to cook something purely by accident. stove all day, even if you just threw it in
from scratch. But what if you decide to All you need is a recipe that requires the pot 30 minutes ago.
rustle something up that doesn’t include liquid. Just about anywhere you add Want to make a box cake mix taste
your favorite brew? liquid, you can add craft beer instead! richer and more chocolaty? Replace all
Easy: Add it! For example, let’s say you have a of the water with a nice dark, chocolaty
As a boozy baker at Twist & Stout favorite soup and one of the ingredients is stout. How about those powdered sauces
Cakery in Wilmington, I’ve been three cups of chicken stock. While you’ll and gravies in pouches on the spice
experimenting with beer in both sweet still want to add some chicken stock aisle? Want to kick those up a notch or
and savory creations for years. I had no because stock adds a ton of flavor, you twelve? Use craft beer instead of water.
idea what I was doing when I began can replace half of the stock with your Steaming vegetables or seafood? Why
60 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
not beer-steam them instead? Ever make 1. Let’s do this! I know, I know gravy happens. Take that saucepan
your own meat marinade? Beer really it looks like a lot of steps, but each off the heat and set aside. Now’s
shines here. Not only does it pack quite step is easy. Seriously, you got this probably a good time to preheat that
a punch in the flavor department, but it — promise! Now, grab 6-8 medium oven to 350*F Or don’t. Up to you.
also tenderizes the meat at the same time. white potatoes. Wash and peel ‘em 7. Potato time! Once they’re fork
Now begs the question: What kind (or leave skins on, if you prefer).
of beer do you use? The rule for cooking tender, drain the water. Return ‘em
Cut into large chunks and add to
with wine is: Never cook with a wine pot with well-salted water. Cook on to pot and add butter, salt and heavy
you wouldn’t drink. Same goes for beer. high 20-25 minutes until potatoes cream. Whip on high with electric
Make sure you’re using a craft beer you are fork tender. mixer. Add more heavy cream if
enjoy drinking because you will taste it. 2. Meanwhile, heat both a large needed to get to the consistency you
If you’re making — let’s say — a cheese and medium skillet on stove to prefer, but don’t make potato soup
soup, then any of your favorite ales or medium-high. While they’re coming — that’s a whole different recipe.
pilsners will incorporate seamlessly into up to temp, get a huge bowl and mix 8. FINALLY TIME TO
the new beer cheese soup recipe you just beef, Worcestershire sauce and all ASSEMBLE! Grab your finest
came up with on the fly. five spices together well with your
casserole dish. I prefer one of those
Can you use a stout instead? hands — get in there and get dirty!
Absolutely! 3. Fine, fine, now you can wash taller, thicker 5 quart casseroles —
It will change the flavor of the soup, your filthy meat hands. Then dice ideally with a late 70s or early 80s
but you can use whatever agrees with that onion, mince that garlic (or just design in shades of orange and brown.
your palate. There are no rules about buy the jar of pre-minced garlic if Spray some buttery Pam all around
which beer goes with which recipe. And you’re not a big mincer). the inside of that sucker. Add the
the best part? 4. Add a couple turns of olive meat/veggie mixture. Slowly pour
After your “exbeeriment,” you get to oil to large heated skillet, then add thickened stout gravy all through the
feast on all your beer-based bites and onions. Once they’re all sweaty, add meat mixture until it’s covered. You
wash them down with the remainder of garlic. Swoosh everything around
don’t want there to be more gravy
your favorite brew! the pan occasionally until they’re
Now go get your hands on some beer heading towards caramelized. Add than meat, but you want the meat to
and figure out how to incorporate it into frozen peas, carrots, and corn. Cook take a comfortable stout gravy bath.
your next meal for one tasty culinary until unfrozen and starting to get If there’s extra gravy, just set that
journey. brown edges here and there, about aside and drink it with a straw later.
Need a little help getting started? I got 8-10 minutes. (It’s cool, I won’t tell anyone). Now
you. 5. While that’s a-workin,’ add the carefully add the mashed potatoes
Here’s one of my favorite chilly day beef mixture to preheated medium one spoonful at a time, trying not
fall recipes that will warm you from the skillet. Use a wooden spoon and to disturb the stout gravy meat
inside out: break up any big chunks. Keep bath. Spread those potatoes out
swooshing occasionally until meat
Shepherd’s Pie with Stout Gravy across the meat and gravy evenly,
is browned. Drain the fat, then add
• 1.5 lb. 80/20 ground beef creating a potato peak here and
• 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce the meat to the veggie mixture. Mix
• 1 tsp. smoked paprika well, then take off heat and set aside. there if you wanna be fancy pants.
• 1 tsp. onion salt 6.Grab a small saucepan, those 9. Pop that casserole into preheated
• 1 tbsp. Montreal Steak seasoning two packets o’ gravy, and 16 oz. oven (or turn the oven on to 350*F
• salt, as needed
• pepper, as needed of your favorite stout. Make gravy if you rebelled against my earlier
• 6-8 medium white potatoes (about according to directions EXCEPT advice) and bake for 25-30 minutes
2.5 lbs.), cut into chunks instead of adding water, use the until the stout gravy is starting to
• 1 stick o’ butter stout. And if my math is correct,
• 1/4 c.+ heavy cream bubble up the sides and the potatoes
• olive oil you probably bought two 12 oz.
are starting to brown. (If you like
• 1 large onion, diced bottles or cans of your favorite
• 4 tsp. minced garlic stout, so that leaves 8 oz. left to more brown on top, you can put it
• 1 small bag frozen carrots ‘n peas sip. Did you really think I would go under the broiler for 3-5 minutes.)
• 1/2 small bag frozen corn 10. Serve to your impressed family
• 2 pkts. McCormick Brown Gravy through this whole recipe without
• 16 oz. of your favorite stout suggesting you drink beer? Never! and friends with your favorite stout.
• Pam While sipping away, whisk well until Enjoy!

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 61


Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

Dirtbag Ales
A small but growing community is
brewing in a small warehouse in
Hope Mills.
Nearly every night of the week, the
his fellow soldiers, Eric and Batch, brewed
new beers in their spare time. After so
many people praised the beer, they decided
to strike out and start Dirtbag Ales. Tito
too much for that tentative setup. That is
when they found the warehouse behind a
mechanic shop and a gas station in Hope
Mills.
parking lot of Dirtbag Ales is full with a made the leap. He signed out of the Army Using a CEED (Center for Economic,
close-knit group that flocks to the site for on a Friday and was selling his draft beer Empowerment and Development)
yoga classes, home-brewing classes, artist on Monday. loan from the Fayetteville Economic
galleries and a relaxing evening for the At first, they contract-brewed out of Development Council, they set up shop.
whole family. Railhouse Brewery in Aberdeen. It did
Originally, the taproom was a small affair
The variety of beer choices is noticeable not take long for the demand to grow
and the rest of the space was dedicated to
and delicious. Porters, a Saison/Farmhouse the 15-barrel system.
ale, IPA-Belgian, Marzen and the Brown Shortly after word got out, they needed
ale made with Wet Hops, Three staples
a larger taproom. Knocking down a wall
and then a rotating selection of seasonal
and building a bar opened up the brewing
selections are on tap, and their colorful
space to patrons. The brewing stops in
names are written in chalk above the bar.
Tito, the brewmaster and mastermind the early afternoon and the space is re-
behind Dirtbag Ales, guides a quick tour purposed from brewery to taproom. All
through his facility. The local community the tables and stools are rolled out and the
inspires much of what they do. The brewing supplies are pushed away.
hops for the WHale were procured by a Amid the tumult of an average night,
local farmer. The horticulturalist from Tito explains his philosophy: “Starts with
the nearby Cape Fear Botanical Garden an idea of fun flavors and then discover
brought the rosemary to add to Tito’s how to make it happen,” he says while
collection of unique ingredients. Most of delivering a final blow to his opponents.
his creations came from experiments in his Tito is a self-professed foodie.
garage and copious amounts of reading. “Make great food, great beer and hang
While serving in the military, Tito and out with the people you love,” he says.

62 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Challenge of the Coin:
A Pocketful of Tradition

By Cory Burton

Many members of the military — both A second story claims the tradition 2. All people respond by pulling out a
former and current — enjoy going out started in Vietnam, when an Army coin in the same manner.
and enjoying a pint of their favorite brew infantry-run bar was trying to figure out 3. If you are unable to respond to the
with fellow co-workers, especially after a a way to keep non-infantry from coming challenge, you buy a round of drinks for
hard shift. in to buy drinks — so they devised an the person who initiated the challenge, as
Imagine the scenario: You’re in group ingenious “challenge,” so to speak. Bullets, well as the rest of the group.
of, let’s say, 10. Who pays the first round? spent or not, were plentiful in the wake of 4. If all are able to respond, the initiator
Well, that’s when a pocket-sized a firefight and were ready proof you were of the challenge buys the round.
tradition comes into play. And it all begins an infantryman. 5. Failure to buy a round is considered
with two words — “Coin Check!” At that This soon got out of hand, as a despicable crime and requires that you
point, a service member better have the other proof like enemy grenades and turn in your coin to the issuing agency.
most important piece of metal in their unexploded ordinance were being offered 6. Coin checks can be done ANY
pocket. A challenge coin. as proof. Then a coin was created with the TIME, ANY PLACE.
The tradition of today’s modern infantry’s unit insignia on it. Thus a “coin 7. There are no exceptions to the rules.
challenge coin first began around World check” was done from that point on. If It does not matter if you are in uniform
War I. According to one legend, an officer you had the coin, you were good. or in regular clothes. At the time of the
in the U.S. Army Air Corps (forerunner So, what are the rules to follow when challenge, you’re permitted one step and
of the U.S. Air Force) had a coin created a “coin check” is issued? Here is what you an arm’s reach to locate your coin. Still
that he kept in a leather pouch around need to know: can’t find it? Sorry!
his neck. This was a wise precaution, as it 1. A “Coin Check” involves a challenge The most important thing about
turned out. and a response. The challenge is initiated challenge coins, other than deciding
His plane was shot down and he was by a person pulling out a challenge coin, who buys the drinks, is that A COIN
captured by a German patrol, who took holding it in the air and then verbally IS A COIN — meaning if you were
all of his identification, except for the coin announcing a coin check. Another way to given a coin, it’s in recognition of an
in the pouch. The officer then escaped initiate a coin check is to tap the coin on accomplishment. A coin is also given to
capture and made his way to a French a table or bar, so the noise of the coin can promote esprit de corps among battalions,
outpost. The commander of the outpost be heard. Also, if you accidentally drop fleets, squadrons and units across all the
thought the officer was an enemy, until a challenge coin, the sound of the coin branches of the military.
the officer showed his coin, which bore being dropped initiates a challenge. (This It’s a tradition that will always have a
the officer’s unit insignia, making him an is considered a penalty for not properly special meaning to all military. Currently
ally. caring for your coin. Don’t be that person!) serving, retired or veteran.
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 63
Bright Light Brewing
By Carolina Brew Scene Staff

I f you find yourself in downtown


Fayetteville, knocking on a
random warehouse door in the
a story about all of them.
“No one stands alone in this
town,” he says. The line-up on the
with the beer. One of the co-founders
of Bright Light worked with Dirtbag
Ales, another veteran-owned brewery
middle of the afternoon, you will tap tonight proves it. A collaboration in the area. The third partner and his
learn that Bright Light Brewing brew with Mash House is one that wife designed the original taproom
Company is closed. draws a lot of attention. Called the for the same brewery.
They do not open until 4 p.m. on “Lighthouse Stout,” it is deceptive All of the Bright Light Brewing
a Wednesday, but Eddie Ketchum and delicious. owners are veterans and their desire
invites me to come in and sit on the “We like to make beer that makes to give back is evident and motivates
couch while he gets the place ready for you think about it,” Eddie says as he a lot of their activities. In April,
the evening. He is a friendly, averaged- serves a glass of the Lighthouse, an they hosted The Lone Survivor
build veteran who has an immaculate amber colored beer, and assures me Foundation, which “restores,
emerald green Harley Davidson. it is a stout. Next he gives me a taster empowers and renews hope for our
Eddie loves his community. From the with a chocolatey opaque hue and wounded service members and their
space he occupies to the neighboring tells me it is a Red. families through health, wellness and
companies down the street, Eddie has The collaborations do not stop therapeutic support.”

64 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

No one stands alone. The music events and new brews.


community of patrons seems Local business owners drop
more like good friends than in to support the guys who
customers. The brewery support them. Veterans and
started under a bright light active-duty personnel spend
in one of the owner’s garages a good amount of time with
and it still has the real-feel of their family enjoying Bright
a garage door and concrete Light’s “Gateway IPA - The
floors — industrial and 60 Watt IPA.”
homey at the same time. “We have our staples, but
“You can’t hurt anything we try to get truly broad
around here,” Eddie says with our experiments. We
while leaning on the bar like to make beer that makes
made with 200-year-old you think about it,” Eddie
Heart-Pine. explains as he serves a lightly
Beyond the homely, garage colored amber beer and calls
look, the community gathers it a stout. This collaboration
for that family environment. with the Mash House is
“From your first steps to deceptive. Then Eddie puts
your 21st birthday, we got a chocolate opaque beer on
you,” Eddie says. the bar and calls it an Irish
The families that gather Red.
here nearly every night are The whole Bright Light
all following the BLBC Brewing experience is
Facebook page for updates unique — American, full
with food truck schedules, and welcoming.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 65


Quick Trigger
By Karen A. Mann

L ou and Brenda Velazquez


have long been business
innovators in Ahoskie.
For 15 years, they have owned the
Trigger Brewing in September 2017,
they’ve achieved another first: The
town’s first brewery.
“Mug Shotz has been a local
at a local prison — while perfecting
his hobby. After Lou won two blue
ribbons at the N.C. State Fair for his
bourbon-infused ale and lemongrass
town’s only coffee bar, located in a meeting place for a lot of people wheat beers, the family decided it
beautifully renovated former hotel here,” says Lou, who began home was time to make the hobby into an
in the tiny historic downtown area. brewing eight years ago. “It was only actual profession.
Mug Shotz was Hertford County’s fitting for us to complement the cafe “This is very much a family
first non-smoking restaurant, and with the brewery.” business,” Lou says. “Everybody’s
the first to offer all healthy options A physician’s assistant by trade, involved, from my mother, father-
on the menu. Even the health Lou settled in Ahoskie with Brenda in-law, kids and their spouses. We
department recognized the cafe for and their three daughters after welcome folks in like we welcome
its offerings. retiring from the Coast Guard. He them into our home.”
Now, with the opening of Quick continued to work — and still works The walls of the cafe are adorned

66 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018


Carolina Brew Scene Military Issue

with posters representing the various the town would be to a brewery. On


places the Velazquez family lived On the FIRST night the first night they opened, a few
while in the service and pictures customers became angry that they
of family, including the brewery’s they opened, a few
couldn’t get a Bud Light or a Coors.
namesake, a black lab named Trigger, customers became
who passed away after a bout of liver But Brenda says they’ve eventually
disease. angry that they won those customers over.
“Anyone who has ever had an “They’ll tell us what they like,
animal has had one or two that were couldn’t get a Bud and we’ll give them four beers in a
close to their hearts and who they Light or a Coors. flight,” she says. “Nine times out of
would never forget. For us that was ten, they’ll come up and they’ll get
Trigger, who found no stranger in But Brenda says the All Time Low (a low alcohol,
whomever he met,” Lou says.
Located in the back of the cafe, they’ve eventually low IBU hefeweizen) or the pilsner.
the brew-making operation currently They’re coming back.”
won those
includes a 1.5 barrel set up with Other popular beers are the Portly
three fermentors and a brite tank. customers over. Chocolate Lab, a chocolate porter
While Brenda holds down the cafe made from chocolate grain with
business, Lou — along with a brew logo, which includes a likeness of
chocolate nibs from Guyana, and
team that includes daughter Kerstyn Trigger himself. All of the brewery’s
beers are kegged. the Travesty, an unfermented New
and son-in-law Angel Genao —
handles beer production. Daughter They went with the nano brewery England IPA so named because of
Kelly designed the Quick Trigger because they weren't sure how open its unexpectedly deep, cloudy color.
Brenda says the Travesty is their most
popular beer to sell in a growler.
They are currently working with a
local retail peanut company to make
their first bottle-produced beer:
A peanut butter chocolate stout
infused in bourbon barrels.
Business is booming to the point
that the family is in the process of
increasing fermentation capacity,
and they are already pondering a
move to a larger location.
“I think we’re happy,” Brenda
says. “If we do anything, we’ll move
the business to a larger facility where
we can have outdoor seating and
people can bring their pets.”
Quick Trigger Brewing Company
https://www.facebook.com/
quicktriggerbrewing/
118 W. Main Street
Ahoskie, N.C., 27910
(252) 332-6844
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 67
Brew’s Views

The Stout Whisperer

Welcome to the wonderful


world of Stouts!
My Instagram/Twitter nom-de- Now one word to the readers ... I’ll
plume is the Stoutwhisperer. Why? be mentioning specific breweries and
Because that’s all I drink. Stouts and the Stouts. If I don’t mention your favorite
occasional Porter. In fact, the only time Stout, that doesn’t mean I don’t like
I drink a beer that I can see through is it ... it may very well be that I haven’t
once a year during the summertime, had the good fortune of tasting your
when I perform my annual cleansing favorite dark beverage. One wonderful
of my palate with an IPA — usually thing about Stouts is that there are
a Pliny the Elder or Heady Topper. more Stouts than days and something
Everything else is a Stout ... and what new is always rolling off of a line that is
a wonderful world it is! Come along
with me as I write about all things deserving of our attention.
Stout! One prime example is from The
Since this is the Carolina Brew Dreamcatcher’s Brewery in Waxhaw,
Scene, I’ll probably keep most of my just outside of Charlotte. To be honest,
columns about local North Carolina I had never heard of Waxhaw until I saw
Stouts. To be honest, that’s a large an Instagram post of Dreamcatcher’s
enough world to keep me busy on a and their Stout called “Wail of the
full-time basis. From the mountains Baen SIdhe.” Mrs. Stoutwhisperer and
to the beaches and places in between, I took a drive out to Waxhaw to visit
we are so fortunate to have a host their taproom (a renovated firehouse
of Stoutstanding brewers in North — love the place!) and to pick up a
Carolina. couple of bottles of Wail. Turns out this
Personally, my tastes are varied and is a great Stout! This is but one example
depend on my mood. I like to have of what I’m sure are numerous stories
my taste buds challenged so I tend to of local North Carolina breweries and
gravitate toward Stouts that are thick their brewmasters turning out some
and viscous. I appreciate the creativity quality Stouts.
of using different adjuncts but I also In future columns, I’ll touch on
realize how difficult it is to dial in various Stout topics — new releases,
a perfect straight down the middle
Imperial Stout. The impacts of barrel top North Carolina Stouts, popular
aging are also one of my interests, not adjuncts, bottles vs. cans, and I’ll also
only bourbon, but also rum, wine and want to hear from you. Let me know
even grappe (and whatever will be what you want me to cover in the world
next). Since Stouts tend to gravitate of Stouts and I’ll be glad to oblige. Drop
toward higher alcohol content, I tend me a note at rick@stoutwhisperer.com
to have only one a day, savor it as it and let me know you saw my column
warms, and appreciate the flavors as in Carolina Brew Scene.
they present themselves (or run away Remember, every season is Stout
and hide). season!
68 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
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Tarboro Brewing Company
DOWNTOWN GOLDSBORO
526 N Main St, Tarboro STREET,
STREET, DOWNTOWN
DOWNTOWN GOLDSBORO
GOLDSBORO
252.563.6522
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weeka week
Rocky Mount Mills Campus
5PM - 9PM Wednesday-Thursday
1121 Falls Road, Rocky Mount 5 PM - 10 PM Friday
Wednesday-Friday: 5:00 - 10 p.m.
dsborobrewworks.com
www.goldsborobrewworks.com
www.goldsborobrewworks.com
11 AM - 11 PM Saturday
Saturday: 12 - 10 p.m.
12 PM - 6 PM Sunday
Sunday: 12 - 6 p.m.

Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 69


Tight Lines
By Karen A. Mann

If it hadn’t been for a fateful offshore fishing tournament that takes place in
fishing trip, Russell Lewis’ downtown Morehead City every June.
Morehead City brewery and restaurant One brew that’s very near and dear
might have been called Carteret to Lewis’ heart is the Shellfish Warning
Brewing. Double Black IPA, a big, strong
Instead, the first mate on the boat chocolatey IPA that’s brewed with local
uttered a phrase that fishermen use to oysters. At 10.5 percent alcohol, it’s a
wish each other good luck: Tight lines. brew to savor slowly before moving on
“It’s kind of like saying ‘break a leg’ to something lighter. Lewis minored in
in show business,” Lewis says. “When I marine science at UNC-Chapel Hill, and
hear him say that, I was just like, (snaps continues to be involved in mariculture
fingers) ‘That’s it!’” and aquaculture issues. Through his
Thus, Tight Lines was born. nonprofit, Pints for Purpose, Lewis
At the time, he was still conceptualizing helps donate to the Crystal Coast
the business and hadn’t even purchased Oyster Festival, which benefits the N.C.
the Arendell Street location, which was Shellfish Growers Association.
long home to Rapscallions Restaurant. “Oysters are something that is super
The restaurant was developed while important to me,” he says.”Wild caught
Lewis waited on the proper permits oysters, their stocks are dwindling in
and construction of the brewing facility. the state. If you look at places like New
Working with his grandfather, who is England or Maryland or Chesapeake,
a general contractor, Lewis did a total the oyster farming communities there
remake of the restaurant’s dining room are massive. So we’re not only trying
and upstairs area. The area that now to raise the prominence of North
houses the five-barrel brewing system Carolina farmed oysters but also grow
had been a smoking area. A wide, the industry.”
comfortable bar faces a row of big- As for beer No. 10, Lewis and his team
screen TVs, all showing various sports. are thinking about potential recipes in
The goal, Lewis says, was to “create a honor of the 300th anniversary of the
space where people would come to eat, death of Blackbeard, the infamous pirate
drink a few beers and definitely watch who called Beaufort home, and whose
a game.” ship, The Queen Anne’s Revenge, was
“It’s ironic because I rarely do that.” recently discovered in Beaufort Inlet.
With the help of Seibel Institute- Lewis also owns a restaurant named
trained brewer Jeff Brungard, Tight Queen Anne’s Revenge in Beaufort.
Lines began brewing on May 1, 2017, be a cool way to tell that story through Right now, Queen Anne’s Revenge is
and now has nine brews on tap. With the production of our beer.” the only other place to find Tight Lines’
each beer, the brewery tries to tell a Tight Lines’ brews include Lookout beers.
story about the history and culture Pale Ale, a honey citrus brew that’s “Something I’ve learned is to move
of the Crystal Coast area. A native of slowly and only take things as you’re
dedicated to the keepers of the Cape
Beaufort, Lewis is a descendant of the ready,” he says. “I wanted to make sure
original Ca’e Bankers who formed a Lookout Lighthouse, who lived on the our beers were ready, wanted to make
now-abandoned whaling community island with their families and made sure sure we didn’t put the cart before the
on Shackleford Banks and looked to the the light never went out. There’s also the proverbial horse. This brand and the
sea for their livelihoods. Big Rock Double IPA, dedicated to an creation are extremely important to me
“This area is so rich in tradition and offshore site known for attracting big — I want to make sure that when we’re
legacy,” he says. “We thought it would game fish and the world-famous bill ready, it’s right.”
70 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018
Fall 2018 | Carolina Brew Scene | 71
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72 | Carolina Brew Scene | Fall 2018

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