Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12

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Quaternary Science Reviews

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Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response

to large earthquakes along the northern Sunda trench
Katrin Monecke a, *, Caroline K. Templeton a, Willi Finger b, Brian Houston c, Stefan Luthi d,
Brian G. McAdoo e, Ella Meilianda f, Joep E.A. Storms d, Dirk-Jan Walstra d, g, Razali Amna f,
Neil Hood c, Francis J. Karmanocky III h, Nurjanah f, Ibnu Rusydy f, Sam Unggul Sudrajat i
a
Wellesley College, Wellesley, MA, USA
b
Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation, Zurich, Switzerland
c
University of Pittsburgh, Johnstown, PA, USA
d
Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands
e
Yale-NUS College, Singapore
f
Tsunami and Disaster Mitigation Research Center, Banda Aceh, Indonesia
g
Deltares, Delft, The Netherlands
h
West Virginia University, Morgantown, WV, USA
i
United Nations Development Program, Jakarta, Indonesia

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: The morphology of beach ridge plains along active margins can be used to reconstruct coastal subsidence
Received 2 June 2014 during large megathrust earthquakes. Here we use satellite imagery and automatic level surveys to
Received in revised form reconstruct the build-up of a new beach ridge along a 10 km long stretch of the western Acehnese coast
8 October 2014
after the complete destruction of the beach during the great Sumatra -Andaman earthquake and suc-
Accepted 16 October 2014
cessive tsunami in December 2004. The western Acehnese coast is characterized by ridge and swale
Available online xxx
topography reflecting the long-term progradation of the coastline. Radiocarbon dates obtained from
marshy deposits in between ridges indicate an average progradation rate of 1.3e1.8 m per year over the
Keywords:
Paleoseismology
last 1000 years. As a result of coseismic subsidence of 0.5e1 m and tsunami inundation in 2004, the most
Coastal morphology seaward beach ridge was destroyed and the coastline receded on average 110 m landward representing
Beach ridge plain 65e85 years of average progradation. However, by 2006 a new 22 m wide ridge had formed. In the
December 2004 Sumatra-Andaman following years the coast prograded by an additional 30 m, but has not yet recovered to its pre-December
earthquake 2004 position. In addition to the spatial data, topographic surveys conducted in 2009, 2012 and 2013
2004 Indian Ocean tsunami indicate that the crest of the newly formed beach ridge is 0.8e1.3 m higher than the crests of older beach
Aceh (Indonesia) ridges further inland. The source material for the new ridge is most likely sand transported seaward by
the back flow of the 2004 tsunami and stored on the upper shoreface. In the months and years after the
tsunami, this sediment is reworked by regular coastal processes and transported back to shore, leading to
the reconstruction of a higher beach ridge in equilibrium with the vertical displacement of the coast and
the resulting higher relative sea level. The preservation potential of the newly formed ridge depends on
sediment availability within the coastal system to balance coastal profile adjustments due to rapid
postseismic uplift. In Aceh, the preservation of seismically modified beach ridge morphology seems likely
and another prominent ridge can be found in 640 m distance to the shoreline. It most likely formed in
the aftermath of a previous megathrust earthquake and tsunami about 600 years ago matching sediment
and coral records for this region.
© 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction

Growing coastal communities around the world are increasingly

threatened by extreme events as recently witnessed when Typhoon
* Corresponding author. Hayian hit the Philippines and portions of Southeast Asia in
E-mail address: kmonecke@wellesley.edu (K. Monecke). November 2013 or, when the March 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
0277-3791/© 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
2 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12
struck Eastern Japan and coastal areas throughout the Pacific basin.
Using satellite imagery, detailed ground surveying and sediment
analysis, the immediate impacts on the coastal zone have been well
documented for recent extreme events allowing the quantification
of hydrodynamic parameters and geomorphic change with possible
implications for storm surge forecasting (e.g. Fritz et al., 2007;
Spencer et al., 2014) and tsunami hazard assessment, warning
and preparedness (e.g. Jaffe et al., 2006; Vargas et al., 2011; Tappin
et al., 2012). Only very few studies have focused on the longer term
coastal recovery after extreme events, which is equally important
since coastal planners have to allocate resources and design
appropriate structures for future hazard mitigation. The partial or
complete rebuilding of sandy beaches after large storm events is
site specific and has been observed to take in the order of a few
months depending on inherited hydrologic and sedimentary pa-
rameters (e.g. Wang et al., 2006; Yu et al., 2013). The recovery of
sandy shorelines and establishment of equilibrium after devas-
tating tsunamis might take from a few months up to a few years
(e.g. Choowong et al., 2009; Liew et al., 2010) and can be expected
to be more complex in tectonically active regions experiencing co-
and postseismic land level changes (Meilianda et al., 2010). In order
to prepare coastal communities for future hazards it is critical to
understand the frequency and magnitude of past events. Numerous
studies of deposits in coastal areas have revealed millennia span-
ning records of coseismic land level changes (e.g. Atwater, 1987;
Shennan et al., 2014) and tsunami inundation (e.g. Nanayama
et al., 2003; Cisternas et al., 2005). Latter studies have often been
successful in marshy beach ridge plains where tsunami sand sheets
have been preserved in low-lying depressions (e.g. Pinegina and
Bourgeois, 2001; Jankaew et al., 2008; Atwater et al., 2013). In
this paper we combine spatial imagery analysis and topographic
surveys to quantify the recovery of a beach ridge plain in West
Aceh, Sumatra, Indonesia over a time span of 9 years after the 2004
Indian Ocean tsunami, and determine the effects of large-scale
events on beach ridge morphologies and growth patterns. We
will compare the obtained morphological data to previous paleo-
seismic studies of the coastal sediments in this area (Monecke et al.,
2008) and discuss if beach ridge morphologies are suitable to
reconstruct past earthquake histories.
1.1. The morphology of beach ridge plains
Many parts of the Sumatran coast consist of beach ridge plains,
where shore-parallel sand ridges alternate with marshy swales,
typical for a prograding coastline. Although their geometries look
quite regular, large magnitude earthquakes along the Sunda trench
cause vertical ground displacement and tsunamis of devastating
force which can modify coastlines significantly, as evidenced by the
December 26, 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake and ensuing
Indian Ocean tsunami (Liew et al., 2010). In Aceh, the northernmost
province of Sumatra, Indonesia, a retreat of the coastline of several
tens of meters was observed and can be attributed to coseismic
subsidence, tsunami scouring and sediment redistribution (Jaffe
et al., 2006; Meltzner et al., 2006; Meilianda et al., 2010). More
recent satellite images, however, show that in many places the
shoreline has built rapidly seaward forming a new prominent
beach ridge since the 2004 event (Liew et al., 2010).
The formation of beach ridge coastlines and possible modifica-
tions by large-scale events is still a matter of debate (see Tamura,
2012; for a review). A beach ridge plain is characterized by sets of
sandy ridges separated by low-lying swales that run parallel or
subparallel to the coast for several kilometres. Individual ridges
mark former positions of the shoreline with older ridges located
further inland while new ones build progressively seaward. Pro-
grading coastlines experiencing significant wind transport may
Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
show extensive dune development on top of ridges; such strand-
plains are sometimes identified as dune or foredune ridges (e.g.
Wells and Goff, 2007; Masselink et al., 2011) or might be included
under the term beach ridge plain (e.g. Otvos, 2000; Bristow and
Pucillo, 2006). If aeolian processes are secondary, beach ridge evo-
lution is primarily a result of swash processes under varying wave
energy conditions (Taylor and Stone, 1996). A low shoreface gradient
as well as an abundance of sediment are favourable for progradation
of beach ridges (Taylor and Stone, 1996; Bristow and Pucillo, 2006)
with sediment supply being the most important factor controlling
the spatial and temporal variation in beach ridge development
(Anthony, 1995). Sediment supply to the littoral environment can
increase significantly during extreme climate events (Goy et al.,
2003; Shafer Rogers et al., 2004) or the mobilization of sediment
as a result of earthquake shaking (Wells and Goff, 2007). Geometries
of beach ridge systems have successfully been used to reconstruct
sea and lake level histories on millennial to decadal scales (Tanner,
1995; Thompson and Baedke, 1995; Engels and Roberts, 2005;
Storms and Kroonenberg, 2007). Rates of beach ridge progradation
are commonly determined by optical luminescence dating of sandy
ridge deposits (e.g. Ballarini et al., 2003; Bristow and Pucillo, 2006)
but radiocarbon dating of organic material from within beach ridges
(e.g. Goy et al., 2003) or from inter-ridge swales (e.g. Thompson,
1992) has been used as well.
In a few cases beach ridge patterns have been shown to reveal
earthquake cycles. Bookhagen et al. (2006) interpret a sequence of
uplifted beach berms in South-Central Chile as paleoshorelines that
were progressively exposed during earthquakes along the Nazca-
South America plate interface. Briggs et al. (2008) document a set
of seaward climbing beach berm crests on Nias Island in West
Sumatra, which might respond to slow interseismic subsidence
along this part of the Sunda trench subduction zone. Mobilization
of large amounts of sediments produced during earthquake
shaking is suggested as the driving force for the formation of dune
ridges in New Zealand (Wells and Goff, 2007). A link of beach ridge
formation and earthquake activity is tentatively suggested for a
strandplain in eastern Japan, yet, the complex interplay of seismic,
volcanogenic and climatically-driven processes needs more thor-
ough investigation (Goff and Sugawara, 2014).
1.2. Land level changes during subduction earthquakes
It can be assumed that, in seismically active areas, growth rates
of beach ridge plains are severely affected by coseismic land level
changes, which affect the local sea level and shoreface gradient.
Large subduction earthquakes cause a characteristic pattern of
vertical ground displacement: Uplift up to a few meters occurs
closer to the trench often visible by emergence of offshore islands,
while subsidence dominates in the forearc region causing the
drowning of coastlines (e.g. Plafker, 1972). Significant land level
changes continue after the event and comprise afterslip in the
months following the earthquake, mantle relaxation over decades
after the event and relocking of the fault thereafter (Wang et al.,
2012). The latter two processes are generally opposite in direction
to coseismic slip; areas experiencing coseismic uplift are subsiding
whereas coseismically subsiding areas are uplifted (e.g. Savage and
Plafker, 1991; Natawidjaja et al., 2007; Suito and Freymueller,
2009). Continuous GPS measurements along many active margins
(but not in Aceh), over the past 20 years have allowed the quanti-
fication of co-, post- and interseismic deformation and the devel-
opment of sophisticated earthquake dislocation models that
predict the land level changes in subduction zones over one
earthquake cycle (for a review see Wang et al., 2012). Since the
2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake and ensuing tsunami caused
relative sea level rise along the coastline of West Aceh, in addition
 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12
to nearshore erosion and significant sediment redistribution, we
anticipate that it left a distinct imprint on beach ridge stratigraphy.
2. Regional setting
2.1. Seismotectonic setting
The Sunda trench subduction zone parallels the west coast of
Aceh at a distance of 250e300 km (Fig. 1). Large earthquakes have
been generated along this megathrust including the recent Mw 9.2
December 26, 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake with a rupture
length of 1600 km and slip locally exceeding 20 m (Chlieh et al.,
2007). A combination of satellite image analysis, GPS campaign
data and coral measurements indicate coseismic uplift of up to 2 m
on offshore islands close to the trench and subsidence of 0.5e1 m
along the west coast of Aceh (Fig. 1, Meltzner et al., 2006; Subarya
et al., 2006). Postseismic measurements from a permanent GPS
station (Ujung Muloh, UMLH, in Fig. 1) of the Sumatra GPS Array
(SuGAR) indicate continued horizontal displacement of the west
coast of Aceh but nearly no vertical displacement or slight subsi-
dence in the year following the earthquake, which can be attributed
to afterslip (Shearer and Bürgmann, 2010). Since late 2005 the
coastline experiences uplift of 27 mm/year (processed data from
UMLH station made available by Jeff Freymueller, University of
Alaska, Fairbanks, 2014), probably the result of postseismic mantle
Fig. 1. Northern Sunda Margin and vicinity. Gray patch marks rupture area of
December 2004, Mw ¼ 9.2 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake after Chlieh et al., 2007.
Coseismic land level changes during 2004 earthquake are from satellite image obser-
vations, uplifted corals and GPS campaign data after Subarya et al. (2006). Closest tide
gauge station is located in Meulaboh (Me). Coral observations by Meltzner et al. (2010)
were carried out on Simeulue Island (Si). Triangles mark permanent GPS stations in
Aceh installed in 2005.
Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
3
relaxation. Viscoelastic mantle relaxation models suggest
decreasing rates of postseismic uplift in Aceh over the next few
decades amounting to a total of 50 cm for a period of 60 years after
the Sumatra-Andaman earthquake (Shearer and Bürgmann, 2010).
The historic seismic record of Indonesia revealed no major
earthquake or tsunami affecting the west coast of Aceh for the last
400 years (Newcomb and McCann, 1987; Hamzah et al., 2000). One
exception is the A.D. 1907 earthquake that generated a tsunami
devastating the coastal areas of offshore Simeulue Island (Fig. 1) but
reaching only minimum heights along the Acehnese mainland
(McAdoo et al., 2006). More recent studies of older historical doc-
uments point to tsunami inundation in A.D. 1349 and around A.D.
1000 (Nurjanah, 2013). Geologic evidence of past seismic activity is
recorded in the growth pattern of corals from northern Simeulue
Island (Fig. 1), which lies within the 2004 rupture area (Meltzner
et al., 2010). Here, abrupt coseismic land level changes occurred
during an earthquake cluster between A.D. 1390e1455 with
considerable greater uplift than in 2004. The sediments of a beach
ridge plain 15 km northwest of Meulaboh in West Aceh yielded
evidence of past tsunami inundation through buried sand sheets
deposited soon after A.D. 780e990 and A.D. 1290e1400 (Monecke
et al., 2008). The combined historical and geologic record from
Aceh suggests that the last predecessor of the 2004 Sumatra-
Andaman earthquake and tsunami occurred about 600 years ago,
which has been confirmed along other coastlines in the Indian
Ocean (e.g. Jankaew et al., 2008).
2.2. Geomorphology of West Acehnese coastline
Here, we are revisiting the previously studied beach ridge plain
in West Aceh (Monecke et al., 2008), 15 km northwest of Meulaboh
(Figs. 1 and 2). The study area is part of the Meulaboh Embayment,
an extensive low-lying coastal plain southwest of the Barisan
Mountains, which run the length of Sumatra. The sediments of the
Meulaboh Embayment consist of a few hundred meter thick
sequence of Plio-Pleistocene clastic sedimentary rocks and Qua-
ternary gravels, sands and clays deposited in a fluvial to coastal
environment (Cameron, 1983). Geophysical and borehole data
suggest a large prograding delta complex with cyclic sedimentation
over the last 2.6 Ma with the sediments of the beach ridge plain
forming the top few meters of a larger sand body (Finger, 2007).
The Woyla River (Fig. 2), as well as the Meulaboh River to the
south, are major rivers in this area and carry abundant sediment
from the Barisan Mountains to the coastline. Uplift of the Barisan
Mountains might have started as early as the Miocene and the
presence of river terraces as well as deeply incised river valleys
suggest that uplift continues at present (Cameron, 1983). Even
though we have no direct measurement of sediment yield of the
two rivers, uplift combined with a tropical climate point towards a
large sediment supply to the coastal zone.
The studied beach ridge plain extends approximately 2 km
inland and stretches along the coast for 10 km between the Woyla
River in the Northwest and a raised reef structure that forms a small
peninsula in the Southeast (Fig. 2a). The overall topography of the
study area is low with individual beach ridge crests reaching no
more than 2.5 m height above sea level (Fig. 2b). The ridges run sub-
parallel to the coast, curve towards the raised coral reef structure in
the Southeast, and get wider and less pronounced towards the
Woyla River floodplain in the Northwest (Fig. 2a). Sandy ridges are
separated by swales where peaty marsh deposits accumulate and
can be dissected by artificial or natural shore-normal channels. The
coastal road as well as several houses are located on a higher ridge in
about 640 m distance to the shoreline (Fig. 2). Large parts of the
beach ridge plain are covered by dense swamp vegetation and
inland access is only possible along a few man-made trails.
4 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12

Fig. 2. a) Overview of study area and beach ridge plain north of Meulaboh. Beach ridges run sub-parallel to the shore and can be followed laterally over several kilometers.
Intervening swales are submerged in this April 2005 image due to coseimic subsidence. Tsunami wave heights reached 9e14 m in this area and the limit of tsunami inundation is
marked by the extent of saltwater affected trees showing up in gray. Observed extent of 2004 tsunami deposit and buried sand sheets related to earlier tsunami inundation (Units B
and C) are from Monecke et al. (2008). Photographs were made available by the SIM Center of the Aceh and Nias Rehabilitation and Reconstruction Board (BRR). b) Simplified cross
section of beach ridge plain indicating the long-term seaward progradation of beach ridges based on radiocarbon dating of swale deposits, the presence of outsized ridges and the
observed extent of tsunami sand sheets after Monecke et al. (2008).

Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12 5

The sequence of ridges builds progressively seaward at a rate
that can be estimated from the age of deposits accumulating on the
beach ridge plain. When a new beach ridge starts to form, the area
landward of it becomes protected from wave action and organic-
rich sediment starts to accumulate. The age of the oldest deposit
in a swale can therefore give an estimate of the beach ridge
immediately before it. The oldest deposits in swales in about
1800 m and 950 m distance to the current shore have been dated to
A.D. 780e990 and A.D. 1290e1400, respectively (Fig. 2), thus
indicate average progradation rates of 1.5e1.8 m/year and
1.3e1.6 m/year (Monecke et al., 2008). Even though the deepest
swale sediments might not have been deposited exactly synchro-
nously to the adjacent beach ridge, our ages are consistent and
match progradation rates reported from beach ridge plains else-
where (e.g. Anthony, 1995; Tanner, 1995; Bristow and Pucillo, 2006;
Brooke et al., 2008).
In low-lying areas of the beach ridge plain, the 2004 tsunami
deposited a sand sheet that can be followed up to 1800 m inland
(Fig. 2, Monecke et al., 2008). While a continuous, up to 50 cm thick
sand sheet can be found in swales up to 600 m inland, the deposit
becomes patchy and thins to a few millimeters farther away from
the shoreline. Sediment cores taken from swales between beach
ridges revealed two older sand layers intercalated with peaty
marsh deposits (Unit B and C in Fig. 2, Monecke et al., 2008). In
keeping with the progressive seaward migration of the shoreline,
the older sand layer (Unit C) can be found farther inland than the
younger Unit B. These sand sheets deposited soon after A.D.
780e990 and A.D. 1290e1400, were probably laid down by earlier
tsunamis (Monecke et al., 2008).
2.3. Hydrodynamic setting
The rebuilding of a shoreline after extreme events is largely
dependent on the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (e.g. Yu
et al., 2013). The coastline of West Aceh can be characterized as a
wave dominated environment with the wave climate being
controlled by the East Monsoon from October to March and the
more energetic West Monsoon from April to September. We have
no directly measured wave data, but a wave climate model in-
dicates calmer conditions with a significant wave height (Hs) of
0.95 m during the East Monsoon and greater wave heights reaching
Hs ¼ 1.2 m during the West Monsoon (wave data modelled in 7 m
water depth after de Graaff, 2007). Waves approach the shoreline at
a very low angle from a WNW to ESE direction, resulting in minor
and variable longshore sediment transport. A tide gauge station
installed as part of Indonesia's Tsunami Early Warning System in
nearby Meulaboh (Fig. 1) indicates a microtidal environment with a
semidiurnal tide and a maximum tidal range of 0.5e0.6 m during
spring tides (Scho€ ne et al., 2011; quality-controlled data available
from the University of Hawaii Sea Level Center, UHSLC). The beach
can be classified as intermediate and has an average foreshore slope
of tanb ¼ 0.07. The foreshore and beach environment is composed
of well sorted medium sand and comprises predominantly silicate
grains as well as lesser amounts of heavy minerals. Medium

Fig. 3. Detail of Fig. 2 showing coastal development since 2002 and paths of auto-level surveys in 2009, 2012 and 2013. a) Prior to the 2004 earthquake and tsunami a wide beach is
visible. b) Coseismic subsidence and tsunami inundation cause large coastal retreat in 2004. Note submergence of swales and low-lying areas. Incipient beach formation is visible 4
months after 2004 earthquake. c) Rapid coastal progradation causes the formation of a new wide beach ridge. d) Renewed coastal retreat. Note progressive emergence of swales and
low-lying areas in c) and d) due to postseismic uplift.

Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
6 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12

Table 1
Uncertainties related to topographic surveys and spatial imagery analysis. RMS is Root-Mean-Square error. See text for further explanation.

Topographic surveys

Date of survey Horizontal error Vertical error

Measurement error (m) Instrument error (m) Measurement error (m) Run-up variation (m) RMS error (m)

3/10/2009 5 0.0007 0.1 0.52 0.53

8/31/2012 10 0.002 0.02 0.66 0.66
6/12/2013 15 0.002 0.005 1.45 1.45

Spatial imagery analysis

Source of image Date of image Monsoon Cell size (m) Georeferencing offset (m) Tidal variation (m) Run-up variation (m) RMS error (m)

Pleiades 6/28/2013 SW 0.5 5.5 8 13.2 16.4

WorldView-2 1/31/2011 NE 0.5 3.7 8 13.2 15.9
WorldView-2 04/15/2011 SW 0.5 4 8 13.2 16.0
Quickbird 12/08/2009 NE 0.6 1.4 8 13.2 15.5
Quickbird 12/02/2009 NE 0.6 1.8 8 13.2 15.6
Ikonos 06/26/2006 SW 0.8 3.5 8 13.2 15.8
Aerial Photos (BRR) 04/05/2005 SW 0.3 0 8 13.2 15.4
Quickbird 09/19/2002 SW 0.6 4.5 8 13.2 16.1

resolution bathymetric data indicates an upper shoreface slope of
1/100 with a depth of 5 m being reached in 500 m distance to the
coast (personal communication by Widjo Kongko, Coastal Dynamic
Research Institute, BPPD, Yogyakarta, Indonesia). Further offshore
the slope decreases to 1/200 with 10 m water depth being reached
in about 1500 m distance to the shoreline.
3. Methods
In order to quantify the short-term coastal evolution since the
2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake and Indian Ocean tsunami
and to unravel the large-scale architecture of the beach ridge plain,
we conducted topographic surveys and analysed spatial imagery of
the coastal marshes in West Aceh.
3.1. Topographic surveys
Three topographic surveys were conducted in March 2009,
August 2012 and June 2013 by using an automatic level suitable for
a remote, densely vegetated environment allowing height, distance
and angle readings (Fig. 3). Distances between surveyed points
were cross-checked with a range finder and a handheld GPS and
later evaluated using Geographic Information Systems (GIS) soft-
ware. The surveys in 2012 and 2013 were carried out along tran-
sects running perpendicular from the shoreline up to 700 m inland,
ending behind a prominent beach ridge on top of which the coastal
road and several houses are built (Figs. 2 and 3). In 2009, the survey
extended up to 1800 m inland before dense swamp vegetation
hindered any further progress. While all three transects are located
in the same general area, individual survey points differ from year
to year because of changing vegetation patterns, landuse and
flooding. However, since the beach ridges form a regular shore-
parallel pattern, adjacent shore-normal paths should capture the
same sequence of ridges and swales.
Because of the lack of benchmarks in this area, vertical and
horizontal reference points had to be established, which would
allow comparison of the three surveys. The vertical reference for
individual transects is the high water line (HWL), the furthest
landward extent of the last high tide, which was corrected relative
to the tidal pattern as recorded at the tide gauge station in Meu-
laboh (quality-controlled data available from the University of
Hawaii Sea Level Center, UHSLC). The position of the coastal road
and the deepest spot in the most seaward swale serve as horizontal
reference points.
An error analysis was performed for each transect to account for
instrument errors and measurement errors (Table 1). The largest
vertical error in our topographic surveys results from the inter-
pretation of the high water line. The HWL can be approximated by
markers left by the previous high tide like driftwood or the
boundary between wet and dry sand (e.g. Pajak and Leatherman,
2002; Boak and Turner, 2005). The position of the HWL on the
beach is a result of the tidal elevation as well as wave run-up, the
upward displacement of the shoreline due to wave set-up and
swash (Ruggiero et al., 2001; L. J. Moore et al., 2006). Wave run-up
is largely dependent on beach slope and wave height (Masselink
et al., 2011). Using the relationship of Holman (1986), the
extreme wave run-up R2%, the run-up height exceeded by 2% of all
run-up events, can be determined. Although we do not have
measured wave data for the times of our surveys, we calculated R2%
for the range of slopes we measured in 2009, 2012 and 2013 (0.04,
0.05 and 0.11, respectively) and an average wave height of
Hs ¼ 1.08 m (from modelled wave data from de Graaff, 2007). R2%
varies between 0.52 m and 1.45 m (Table 1), thus indicating that
run-up could have caused significant displacements of HWL and
therefore, of all points on our transects.
3.2. Spatial imagery analysis
Eight georeferenced and orthorectified satellite images and a set
of aerial images covering the time span from 2002 to 2013 were
analysed to quantify horizontal shoreline change along an 18 km
long stretch of the western coast of Aceh (Fig. 4, Table 1). On all
imagery we digitized the wet/dry line, a distinct tonal contrast
between wet and dry sand and a good approximation of the high
water line (Moore, 2000; Pajak and Leatherman, 2002). We then
used the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) developed by the
USGS (Thieler et al., 2009) to quantify coastal retreat or pro-
gradation. A baseline was defined seaward of all shorelines and 375
transects were cast perpendicular to the baseline across all digi-
tized shorelines at 50 m intervals (Fig. 4). Along each transect the
shoreline change between subsequent shorelines was calculated
and averaged over all transects.
Shoreline positioning errors are the result of the resolution of
the images, georeferencing offsets, and the tidal range, since the
time of acquisition of the satellite images is not known and/or the
tidal record is not available for images taken before 2008 (Table 1).
In addition, the variation of run-up contributes to uncertainties in
our analysis as outlined above. The resolution of images is highest

Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
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 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12
Fig. 4. Shoreline change analysis. Shorelines are digitized on satellite images from
September 2002 to June 2013 using the wet/dry line as illustrated for the 2013
shoreline in this 2013 satellite image (violet line). All shorelines were intersected by
transects set perpendicular to a baseline using the Digital Shoreline Analysis System
(DSAS) developed by the USGS (Thieler et al., 2009). The baseline extends for 18 km
along the West Acehnese coast; shoreline change was calculated along 375 transects.
Depicted shorelines show characteristic pattern of coastal evolution in West Aceh since
2002. Note the large retreat following the 2004 earthquake and tsunami (2002 vs.
2005 shore), followed by rapid regrowth until 2011 and a renewed retreat from 2011 to
2013. See text and Table 1 for uncertainties in shoreline position and Table 2 for ab-
solute values of shoreline change.
on a set of aerial photographs with a ground cell resolution of 30 cm
and lowest on 2013 satellite images with a resolution of 80 cm
(Table 1). The original georeferencing was cross-checked by
comparing the position of stable control points identifiable on all
images, such as mosques. All points were within less than ±5.5 m of
each other. The variation of high tide excursions measured over one
month is 0.56 m; assuming an average slope of tanb ¼ 0.07, this
leads to a horizontal shoreline variation of ±8 m. The largest error is
associated with variable run-up (average R2% ¼ 0.92 m) leading to
an error of ±13.2 m in shoreline position. The sum of all errors
(Root-Mean-Square, RMS) of individual shoreline positions is less
than ± 16.4 m (Table 1).
4. Results
4.1. Results of topographic surveys
Topographic survey data from March 2009, August 2012 and
June 2013 are illustrated in Fig. 5. All three transects show the
characteristic alternation of ridges and swales and the overall low
morphology of the beach ridge plain with maximum elevations not
exceeding 1.7 m above the high water mark as surveyed on that day.
Some ridges display a typical asymmetrical shape with a steep
seaward face and a more gently sloping landward face. The most
seaward ridge that formed since the dramatic retreat of the coast in
December 2004 is the most prominent ridge in all three transects. It
is between 106 and 163 m wide with its crest 0.9, 1.5 and 1.7 m
above the respective high water mark in 2009, 2012 and 2013
(Fig. 5). In 170e300 m distance to the shoreline beach ridges are
narrower and distinctly lower with widths ranging from 20 to 40 m
and crest heights 0.8e1.3 m below the crest of the prominent most
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along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
7
seaward ridge. Interspersed swales reach depths of 0.4e1.0 m
relative to adjacent ridge crests. Further inland, between 300 and
640 m distance to the shoreline, the characteristic morphology of
ridges and swales is less pronounced, partly because flooded areas
obstructed a direct line of survey and less data points were
collected here. However, variations in elevation are small and in the
same range as for the sequence of lower ridges described above.
The most landward ridge surveyed by all three transects in 640 m
distance to the coastline is another prominent ridge along which
the coastal road is built (see Fig. 2). This ridge is about 50 m wide
and stands 0.5e0.9 m higher than the set of lower ridges seaward of
it (Fig. 5).
When comparing the three transects it has to be taken into
account that the paths of the three transects are not identical and
that the vertical reference point is poorly constrained due to
varying wave run-up. Nevertheless, the sequence of transects in-
dicates a general trend of relative sea level fall or coastal uplift. This
trend is confirmed by the deepening of nearshore swales that drain
towards the Indian Ocean and thus, respond to relative sea level
changes. The three most seaward swales that were surveyed in
close proximity in the first two years are on average 0.17 m deeper
in August 2012 compared to March 2009 (Fig. 5). Field observations
in 2012 and 2013 revealed significant coastal retreat resulting in the
2013 shoreline being located 44 m landward of the 2009 shore
(Fig. 5).
4.2. Horizontal shoreline change analysis
Fig. 4 and Table 2 summarize the shoreline change in West Aceh
as observed on spatial imagery taken between 2002 and 2013.
Comparison of pre- and post-tsunami imagery (September 2002
versus April 2005) indicate an average coastal retreat of 110 m over
the investigated 18 km long stretch of coastline in the course of the
December 2004 earthquake and tsunami. This is a minimum esti-
mate, since the coast had already started to accrete in places by the
time the spatial imagery was taken in April 2005. The retreat was
largest where natural creeks and drainage channels discharge into
the ocean. The tsunami bored out these river outlets as protective
sand barriers were removed during tsunami inundation (compare
Fig. 3a and b). Following the retreat, the coastline grew back rapidly
at a rate of 18 m per year with an average progradation of 22 m
between April 2005 and June 2006. In this phase, the previously
widened creeks and channel mouths were partially closed again
resulting in the largest progradation rates in these areas. Coastal
growth slowed to 9 m per year from June 2006 to December 2009
resulting in an additional advance of 30 m. Between December
2009 and April 2011 the coastline seemed to have stabilized and
experienced only minor changes (Fig. 3c). At this point the coastline
was still on average 45 m from its pre-tsunami position. Compar-
ison of the 2011 images to our latest set of images from June 2013
reveals a renewed retreat of the coastline of an average 41 m
(Fig. 3d), which closely matches our field observations. The 2013
shoreline is located on average 86 m landward of its pre-December
2004 position.
5. Discussion
5.1. Beach ridge formation following the December 2004
earthquake and tsunami
Coastal development in West Aceh in response to co- and
postseismic land level changes, tsunami inundation and sediment
redistribution following the December 2004 earthquake shows a
characteristic pattern (Fig. 6). Before the earthquake a wide beach
can be identified on satellite images (see Fig. 3a). At this stage, the
8 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12

Fig. 5. Topographic survey data. Transects show alternating ridges and swales with the most seaward ridge that formed since December 2004, being the most prominent one.
Another prominent ridge on which the coastal road is located, occurs in 640 m distance to the shoreline. Later surveys in 2012 and 2013 indicate uplift and incision of swales and
retreat of the coastline. Black symbols mark high water line with error related to varying wave run-up (see Table 1 and text for further explanation). Elevation of transects is
corrected relative to tide gauge data from Meulaboh for the time of survey (quality-controlled tidal record available through the University of Hawaii Sea Level Center, UHSLC). Note
vertical exaggeration.

Table 2
Results of Shoreline Change Analysis using the Digital Shoreline Analysis system typical morphology of ridges and swales is barely visible, since
(DSAS, Thieler et al., 2009). Shoreline change was calculated along 375 transects cast large parts of the beach ridge plain are above sea level including
perpendicular to an 18 km long stretch of the coastline in West Aceh. See Table 1 and depressions and shore-parallel swales (Figs. 3a and 6a). While we
text for uncertainties in shoreline position.
do not have topographic survey data from before the earthquake,
Period Average shoreline Average shoreline Transects we assume that the height of the most seaward beach ridge was in
change (m) change rate (m/yr) used the same range as of beach ridges further inland reflecting a rela-
With Without With Without tively stable sea level during the late interseismic interval preced-
outlets outlets outlets outlets ing the earthquake.
9/19/2002 e 4/5/2005 134 110 n/a n/a 32e371 Coseismic subsidence of 0.5e1 m in December 2004 (Meltzner
4/5/2005 e 6/26/2006 55 22 45 18 19e371 et al., 2006; Subarya et al., 2006) caused large areas of the beach
6/26/2006 e 12/2/2009 27 26 8 8 120e372 ridge plain to be submerged with widespread flooding of shore-
6/26/2006 e 12/8/2009 38 n/a 11 n/a 32e127
parallel swales (Figs. 3b and 6b). Subsidence as well as tsunami
12/2/2009 e 1/31/2011 4 4 3 4 120e314
12/2/2009 e 4/15/2011 1 1 1 1 234e375 inundation and erosion resulted in a nearly complete removal of
12/8/2009 e 1/31/2011 9 n/a 7 n/a 33e127 the most seaward beach ridge and the displacement of the coastline
1/31/2011 e 6/28/2013 36 38 15 16 33e314 up to 200 m inland. The mobilized sediment was redistributed and
4/15/2011 e 6/28/2013 47 47 20 20 234e346 either deposited in low-lying areas of the coastal marshes
9/19/2002 e 6/28/2013 86 87 n/a n/a 32e346
(Monecke et al., 2008) or transported offshore with the backwash

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along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12 9

Fig. 6. Coastal Development Model. a) Most parts of the beach ridge plain are above sea level before the 2004 earthquake and tsunami. Only deepest points of swales are sub-
merged. b) Shortly after the 2004 earthquake and tsunami large areas of the beach ridge plain are submerged as a result of coseismic subsidence. The coastline is displaced more
than 200 m inland. Eroded material is transported onshore and offshore. c) In the months and years after the event a new higher beach ridge forms corresponding to the higher
relative sea level. d) Postseismic uplift causes emergence of coastal area and readjustment of coastal profile in years to decades after the earthquake.

of the tsunami. Modelling of tsunami inundation and sediment
transport along a cross-shore profile measured about 50 km north
of our study area, and comparable in shape to bathymetric data
from West Aceh, indicates highest erosion near the original
shoreline, minor deposition onshore and largest sediment accu-
mulation offshore in 500e1000 m distance to the coast (Apotsos
et al., 2011). These simulations further suggest the formation of a
large bar at the seaward end of the tsunami backwash in about
1000 m distance to the shore and water depths between 10 and
12 m, where the backwash collides with the onrush of the next
wave (Apotsos et al., 2011). This is consistent with bathymetric data
from offshore surveys conducted in the months after the 2004
tsunami (Apotsos et al., 2011; personal communication with Peter
Ruggiero, Oregon State University). Similar coastal profile changes
including offshore sediment transport, beach erosion and the for-
mation of a nearshore bar can be observed after large storm events
(Masselink et al., 2011); however, they will affect a smaller part and
shallower depths of the cross-shore profile.
In the years following the December 2004 earthquake, the
coastline steadily prograded, more rapidly in the first few months
and then at moderate rates until reaching an equilibrium some
time between 2009 and 2011 (Figs. 3c and 6c). While falling short of
its pre-tsunami position by 45 m, a new wide beach ridge had
formed. Relatively quick beach accretion after extreme events has
been observed along the eastern coast of Japan following the 2011
Tohoku-oki tsunami (e.g. Tappin et al., 2012), after the 2004 Indian
Ocean tsunami in Aceh, Indonesia (e.g. Liew et al., 2010; Meilianda
et al., 2010), and in Thailand (Choowong et al., 2009) as well as after
large storms on Hongkong Island, Southern China (Yu et al., 2013)
and Florida, USA (Wang et al., 2006). Beach accretion in these cases
can be attributed to the establishment of regular coastal processes,
when low to moderate energy conditions cause the reworking of
offshore bars, shoreward directed sediment transport and beach
accretion (Masselink et al., 2011). Bathymetric data obtained two
years after the tsunami about 50 km north of our study area at the
same location as discussed above, indicate that the previously
described bar in about 1000 m distance to the shore had been
smoothed out (personal communication with Peter Ruggiero,
Oregon State University). A high energy environment, which is also
prevailing along the western Acehnese coast, seems to be favour-
able for a quick reworking of offshore transported sediment and
beach recovery (Yu et al., 2013).
The newly formed beach ridge in our study area is 0.8e1.3 m
higher than beach ridges further inland (Fig. 5). The height of ridges
and the presence of outsized berms can either be a reflection of
dune development on top of beach ridges or changes in sea level, if
ridges are swash-built and aeolian processes can be excluded
(Tamura, 2012). Coastal dunes usually develop on progradational,
sand-rich coasts with energetic wind conditions (Masselink et al.,
2011). While specially adapted pioneering vegetation colonises
and stabilizes wind-transported sand, dense backbeach vegetation
that is often found in the tropics, hinders the development of
coastal dunes (Masselink et al., 2011). The presence of tall outsized
foredune ridges on strandplains in Australia has been explained by
low rates of progradation that allow more time for aeolian sand
transport from the beach to the foredune and the construction of
higher foredune ridges (Bristow and Pucillo, 2006; Brooke et al.,
2008).
We found that aeolian processes probably only play a minor role
in the construction of ridges in West Aceh. The seaward side of the

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along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
10 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12
beach is essentially bare of vegetation hence, the trapping of
sediment is limited. Further landward large dune development is
hindered in places by dense swamp vegetation. We have experi-
enced strong winds and witnessed aeolian sediment transport
during fieldwork in West Aceh (e.g. in June 2013 during a relatively
powerful West Monsoon), however, we have not observed the long-
term establishment of linear foredune ridges. Our topographic
survey data display little variation in the height of the most
seaward beach ridge from 2009 to 2013 (Fig. 5) thus, confirming
that dune growth on ridges is limited. During an earlier fieldwork in
March 2006, we were able to analyse the internal structure of the
newly forming beach ridge just south of our study area, where a
trench had been cut to excavate sand for the reconstruction efforts
in West Aceh. The outcrop showed 1.4 m of well-stratified sand
with heavy mineral laminations and low angle cross stratification
confirming the prevalence of swash processes in beach ridge for-
mation. In conclusion, the difference in height of 0.8e1.3 m be-
tween the most seaward beach ridge and the sequence of ridges
further inland most likely reflects the higher relative sea level
induced by coseismic subsidence in 2004. Such an interpretation is
supported by the fact that the height difference matches the
amount of coseismic subsidence of 0.5e1.0 m of the northern
Sumatran coastline during the December 2004 earthquake
(Meltzner et al., 2006; Subarya et al., 2006). This observation con-
firms our initial assumption that land level changes associated with
large earthquakes along the Sunda trench leave a distinct imprint
on beach ridge morphology.
While other coastlines have nearly completely recovered to
their pre-2004 position, e.g. in Thailand where no land level
changes occurred (Choowong et al., 2009), the West Acehnese coast
remained 45 m landward from its pre-2004 position. Similar
incomplete coastal recovery after the 2004 tsunami has been
observed in northern Aceh, where only 60% of the sediment
initially lost to the tsunami was restored in the months following
the event (Meilianda et al., 2010). Migration patterns of shorelines
and associated coastal deposition is a function of sediment supply,
eustatic sea-level changes and subsidence (Helland-Hansen and
Hampson, 2009). In Aceh, coseismic subsidence (Meltzner et al.,
2006; Subarya et al., 2006) caused significant changes in relative
sea level resulting in a rapid landward shift of the shoreline. As
described above, sediment returned quickly to the shoreline in the
months following the earthquake, however, it was not sufficient to
fill the excess space created by coseismic subsidence. In addition, it
can be assumed that on- and offshore sediment redistribution in
2004 caused significant sediment shortage within the coastal sys-
tem. The 2004 tsunami mobilized huge quantities of sediment from
the nearshore environment (Apotsos et al., 2011), part of which was
deposited within the coastal marshes as an extensive sand sheet
(Monecke et al., 2008). Post-tsunami bathymetric surveys as well as
numerical modelling of sediment transport under tsunamis further
indicate that large amounts of sediment were moved into depths
greater than 10 m (Apotsos et al., 2011), which are not regularly
affected by wave action, thus remain at least temporarily lost from
the coastal system. The combination of a higher relative sea level
and reduced sediment supply is the most likely cause for the
incomplete recovery of the coastline in West Aceh.
5.2. Preservation potential of seismically modified beach ridge
morphology
Recent topographic survey data from August 2012 and June 2013
as well as satellite images from June 2013 indicate a renewed
retreat of the coastline (Figs. 3 and 5). This poses the question of the
preservation potential of beach ridge morphology altered by
extreme events. Since all of the recent data was obtained during the
Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
more energetic West Monsoon, we cannot exclude that seasonal
high energy conditions have caused the most recent retreat of the
shoreline. However, another factor controlling the coastal migra-
tion pattern is postseismic uplift (Fig. 6d). Permanent GPS mea-
surements in northern Aceh indicate rapid postseismic uplift
starting in late 2005, which has amounted to 22 cm by 2013 (UMLH
station in Fig. 1, processed data made available by Jeff Freymueller,
University of Alaska, Fairbanks, 2014). This trend is visible in our
topographic surveys (Fig. 5) and in satellite images, showing the
drying up of swales and depressions (2005 vs. 2011 and 2013 im-
ages in Fig. 3). Relative sea level fall causes erosion of coastal
sediment, the establishment of a lower depositional profile and
progradation, if sediment can be readily made available (Helland-
Hansen and Hampson, 2009). Storms and Kroonenberg (2007)
observe that different beach ridge systems along the Caspian See
experiencing the same amount of rapid sea level fall respond very
differently. Only where sediment is readily available the coastline is
prograding. At a site in northern Aceh that can be described as a
“sediment-poor” environment, Meilianda et al. (2010) noticed
renewed shoreline erosion starting in 2006 after a brief phase of
accretion immediately following the tsunami. The authors suggest
that the growth pattern of shorelines in Aceh is largely controlled
by the inherited coastal morphology and sediment availibility, thus,
determining if the coastline experiences long-term post-tsunami
erosion or accretion (Meilianda et al., 2010). We suggest that the
observed sediment shortage within the coastal system in West
Aceh following tsunami inundation results not only in an incom-
plete recovery of the shoreline but also in limited availability of
sediment for the adjustment of the cross-shore profile in response
to rapid postseismic relative sea level fall.
Postseismic uplift is predicted to prevail over the next 50 years
and could amount up to an additional 30 cm (Shearer and
Bürgmann, 2010). Uplift rates, however, will most likely decrease
over time as has been observed e.g. for areas that subsided during
the 1964 Alaska earthquake and experienced postseismic uplift
thereafter (Suito and Freymueller, 2009). We expect that
decreasing land level changes will result in stabilization of the
cross-shore profile and establishment of equilibrium conditions on
the West Acehnese coastline within the next few decades. Since
uplift in the Barisan Mountains is ongoing, sediment supply to the
coastal zone will likely be high and replenish the sediment lost
during tsunami inundation. Once equilibrium is established, the
coastline will most likely prograde, as is evident in the long-term
stratigraphy of the beach ridge plain.
An indication of long-term preservation of outsized beach
ridges forming after large subduction earthquakes can be found
within older beach ridges further inland. The coastal road and
houses alongside of it are built in large parts on a prominent ridge
in 640 m distance to the shoreline (see Fig. 2). This ridge has also
been identified in our topographic surveys and is 0.5e0.9 m higher
than beach ridges further seaward (Fig. 5). While road construction
most likely involved some modification of the ridge due to level-
ling, compaction and filling, we suggest that the initial prominent
morphology was crucial for choosing the location of the village and
the path of the coastal road in the first place. We propose that,
similar to the ridge that formed in the aftermath of the 2004
earthquake, this prominent ridge formed in response to coseismic
subsidence of the last predecessor of the 2004 earthquake about
600 years ago. Considering the long-term progradation of the
beach ridge plain, the coastline at that time was probably located
in the vicinity of the prominent ridge in 640 m distance to the
shoreline. Coseismic land level changes during a 2004-like rupture
would have caused subsidence in Aceh and triggered the formation
of an outsized ridge in the aftermath of the earthquake. Based on
coral evidence, Meltzner et al. (2010) suggest that such significant
 K. Monecke et al. / Quaternary Science Reviews xxx (2014) 1e12
land-level changes must have occurred during an earthquake
cluster at the south end of the 2004 Sumatra-Andaman rupture
between A.D. 1390e1455, which would have also affected the
coastline in Aceh. Further evidence comes in form of a sand sheet
found in swales landward of the prominent beach ridge and most
likely deposited during tsunami inundation shortly after A.D.
1290e1400 (Unit B in Fig. 2, Monecke et al., 2008). Since the
thickness of tsunami deposits and thus, their preservation poten-
tial is highest in low-lying areas close to the original shore (e.g. A.
Moore et al., 2006), the sand sheet is most likely linked to the
formation of the prominent ridge immediately before it. An addi-
tional tsunami sand sheet deposited shortly after A.D. 780e990
was found within beach ridges further inland (Unit C in Fig. 2;
Monecke et al., 2008). However, here we don't have clear evidence
of an outsized ridge paired with this tsunami deposit, partly
because survey data was limited in the densely vegetated and
partially flooded inland areas (Fig. 3). Based on preliminary ob-
servations of beach ridge morphologies in eastern Japan, Goff and
Sugawara (2014) have suggested a dominantly seismic origin of
beach ridges on the coastal plain of West Aceh implying the
occurrence of more earthquakes and tsunamis than initially pro-
posed by Monecke et al. (2008). We find that beach ridge forma-
tion in Aceh is primarily triggered by abundant sediment supply to
the coastal zone from an uplifting source area causing the long-
term progradational trend of the shoreline. A seismic origin is
only inferred for outsized beach ridges that are significantly higher
than surrounding ridges and are ideally paired with a tsunami
sand sheet immediately behind them.
6. Conclusions
We quantified morphological changes to a beach ridge plain in
West Aceh in response to coseismic subsidence and postseismic
uplift during and after the December 2004 Sumatra-Andaman
earthquake and ensuing tsunami. Our observations show that
beach ridge morphology is modified by large scale events and that a
wider and more importantly, higher beach ridge forms in response
to coseismic land level changes. The outsized ridge can be pre-
served within the stratigraphic record of beach ridge plains, if
sediment supply is sufficient to counteract coastal profile adjust-
ments due to rapid postseismic uplift in the years to decades
following the event. We suggest that beach ridge morphology along
active margins is useful to analyse episodic land level changes
related to large megathrust earthquakes. In addition, the
morphology of beach ridge plains can give clues to where paleo-
tsunami deposits can be found. Tsunami deposits are usually
thickest and best preserved in low-lying areas in the vicinity of the
original shoreline. The identification of outsized beach ridges of
seismic origin could help to recognize such pre-historic shorelines
behind which tsunami deposits are most likely preserved.
Author contributions
KM, CKT, WF, BGM, EM, RA, NH, FJK, N, IR, and SUS did the
fieldwork. BH, NH, and KM prepared the levelling data. CKT and KM
conducted the shoreline change analysis. KM, CKT, BGM, SL, JEAS
and DJW prepared the manuscript.
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank Jeff Freymueller for providing processed
GPS data; Peter Ruggiero and Widjo Kongko for sharing bathy-
metric data, Carolin Ferwerda for helping with GIS and the Aceh
and Nias Rehabilitation and Reconstruction Board (BRR) for
providing aerial photographs of the study area. We greatly
Please cite this article in press as: Monecke, K., et al., Beach ridge patterns in West Aceh, Indonesia, and their response to large earthquakes
along the northern Sunda trench, Quaternary Science Reviews (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2014.10.014
11
appreciated the constructive reviews of Richard Briggs and an
anonymous reviewer that largely improved this manuscript. We
acknowledge funding from the Asian Studies Center at the Uni-
versity of Pittsburgh and the Mentorship Fund at the University of
Pittsburgh at Johnstown. Wellesley College provided funding
through the Faculty Awards Program and the Brachman Hoffman
Small Grants Program. This study benefitted from a VIDI grant
awarded to J. E. A. Storms through the Dutch Organization for Sci-
entific Research (ALWeNWO, VIDI grant number 864.09.004) and
was supported by the Deltares Research Program “Coastal, Estua-
rine and River Morphodynamics”.
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