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Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami

Vol. 11, No. 1 (2017) 1740005 (19 pages)
c World Scientific Publishing Company
DOI: 10.1142/S179343111740005X
Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004

Indian Ocean Tsunami on Coastal Morphological
by 180.251.1.143 on 09/04/18. Re-use and distribution is strictly not permitted, except for Open Access articles.
Changes Around the Ulee Lheue Bay

of Aceh, Indonesia
J. Earthquake and Tsunami 2017.11. Downloaded from www.worldscientific.com
Syamsidik∗,†,§ , Tursina∗,‡,¶ , Asrita Meutia∗,‡, , Musa Al’ala∗,‡,∗∗ ,

Mirza Fahmi∗,‡,†† and Ella Meilianda∗,†,‡‡
∗Tsunami Computation and Visualization Laboratory
Tsunami and Disaster Mitigation Research Center (TDMRC)
Syiah Kuala University, Jl. Prof. Ibrahim Hasan, Gampong Pie
Banda Aceh 23233, Indonesia
†Civil Engineering Department
Syiah Kuala University, Jl. Syeh Abdurrauf

No. 7, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia
‡Civil Engineering Master Program
Syiah Kuala University, Jl. Syeh Abdurrauf

No. 7, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia
§syamsidik@tdmrc.org
¶tursina@tdmrc.org
asritameutia@gmail.com
∗∗musa@tdmrc.org
††mrzfahmi@tdmrc.org
‡‡ella.meilianda@tdmrc.org
Accepted 29 September 2016

Published 11 November 2016
Wave forces during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami have caused morphological deforma-
tions of some coastal areas in Aceh, Indonesia. The sediment transport process during
the tsunami wave propagation around near shore areas is a challenging numerical prob-
lem. To observe the coastal morphological changes after the Indian Ocean tsunami,
this study numerically simulates the coastline changes, sedimentation and erosion areas,
and seabed profiles changes around the Ulee Lheue Bay of Aceh, which was severely
damaged by the tsunami. Two-dimensional horizontal areas were simulated by Cornell
Multi-grid Coupled Tsunami (COMCOT) and Delft3D. Data of the nearshore area were
collected from previous measurements acquired by the Indonesian Navy. According to
the results, sediment in the sea area was deposited approximately 2.5 km from the initial
coastline, at the northern part of one small island occupying the Ulee Lheue Bay. This
island reduced the energy of the tsunami waves during the backwash process, dumping
a significant amount of eroded sediment near the coastline area.
Keywords: COMCOT; Delft3D; coastline; sedimentation; tsunami.
§ Corresponding author.
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1. Introduction
The coastal morphological changes under tsunami waves, especially the changes in
seabed profiles, have interested tsunami researchers in recent decades. The runup
process of tsunami waves around the nearshore area is fully nonlinear. The inter-
action between waves and the bathymetry/topography around the nearshore area
requires a better understanding than is currently possessed. This understanding
is expected to be gained through numerical forward modeling rather than inverse
simulation [Sugawara et al., 2014]. Physical laboratory tests can contribute to this
knowledge, provided that we overcome the dimension effects of the sediment grain
sizes. Unfortunately, the noncohesiveness of the sediment transported by tsunami
waves is difficult to maintain in a laboratory-scale test [Apotsos et al., 2011b].
Therefore, numerical simulations remain the best option for investigating large
coastal morphological changes. However, most of the tsunami modeling packages are
not designed for simultaneous simulations of sediment transport and tsunami wave
propagation from its source to the nearshore area. The complexity of estimating
the impacts has motivated several studies involving both numerical simulations and
field measurements [Li et al., 2012a, 2012b; Li and Huang, 2013]. By understand-
ing the tsunami characteristics through runup, inundation, and sediment (deposit
and erosion), we can reconstruct historical tsunamis and their characteristics from
paleo-tsunami deposits [Jaffe and Gelfenbaum, 2007].
Although the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami has entered its second-decade com-
memoration, few studies have revealed the tsunami impacts on the coastal profiles
around Aceh and Nias of Indonesia. To investigate these impacts, we should better
understand the sediment transport mechanism during tsunami wave propagation
around coastal areas. Large shear stresses generated by the tsunami waves can
transport vast and massive seabed features such as corals and boulders. Erosion
is among the immediate impacts that act over several hundred meters [Syamsidik
et al., 2014]. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami severely eroded the Ulee Lheue Bay
of Aceh and (according to reports) completely destroyed the coastal land barriers
around this area [Hidayat et al., 2014]. Deposition of sediment around the nearshore
area was reported by Li and Huang [2013] and Li et al. [2014], who investigated the
inland sediment deposition locations around Lhok Nga (Aceh) after the 2004 Indian
Ocean tsunami. The impacts of the 2004 tsunami on the coastal morphological
changes around Aceh have been studied by several research groups. However, most
of these studies examined the tsunami deposits in inland parts of the affected area
[Apotsos et al., 2011a]. Furthermore, erosion/deposition process around shoreface
and investigation of the cross-profile changes due to the 2004 tsunami in this area
are significantly few. These motivate this research in order to obtain a better under-
standing on sediment transport process generated by tsunami waves.
This paper investigates the coastal morphological changes induced by tsunami
waves by locating the sedimentation and erosion areas and observing the changes in
the coastline and seabed profiles. The study focuses on the Ulee Lheue Bay, which is
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Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami
situated close to Banda Aceh, the largest city in Aceh affected by the tsunami, but
which has been neglected in previous studies. Through numerical simulations, the
study observes the immediate impacts of the tsunami on the coastal morphology of
the bay. The results are compared against available seabed profiles that have not
been revealed in other studies. The data were collected by government institutions
for their internal uses, but have not been previously published. The presentation
of these data and the study results will enrich our understanding of the sediment
transport process around Aceh during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.
2. Study Area
The Ulee Lheue Bay is located on the western coast of Banda Aceh, and was severely
damaged and eroded by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The Ulee Lheue Bay has
one headland at the western part of the bay, named Ujong Pancu, consisting of cliffs
and steep coastal slopes. The study area is presented in Fig. 1. One small island
(Tuan Island) is situated approximately 2 km from the Ulee Lheue coastline. This
small island is believed to have been inundated by the 2004 tsunami. Before the
tsunami, the study area was dominated by fish ponds and paddy fields and featured
a significant mangrove population. According to pre-tsunami bathymetry data, the
average slope of this coastal area was approximately 1:150, which is considered
Fig. 1. (Color online) The Ulee Lheue Bay as the study area marked in a red square box.
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rather mild. The bed sediments consist of fine and coarse–fine sands. A small portion
of the area at the northern part of Tuan Island was populated by corals. The
Ulee Lheue Bay area is relatively protected from severe wave conditions generated
around the Andaman Sea. Therefore, before the 2004 tsunami, no coastal erosion
had been reported at this site, and hard structures for coastal protection had not
been installed. Approximately 2 km from the coastal land in the landward direction,
there is a mountainous area whose foothills later halted the runup of the 2004
tsunami waves.
3. Methods
This study was implemented in two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) numerical simu-

lations, mimicking the sediment transport process causing severe coastal morpho-
logical changes around the Ulee Lheue Bay.
3.1. Fault mechanism

The tsunami waves around the rupture area of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami
were generated by a multi-fault model proposed by Romano, 2009. The waveforms
around each of the nine faults were calculated by combining Masinha’s and Smylie’s
theories with Okada’s analytical solutions for fault-induced waveforms [Masinha and
Smylie, 1971; Okada, 1985]. The calculated fault area is a finite rectangular rupture
area [Wells and Coppersmith, 1994]. Syamsidik et al. [2015] validated this model
and identified the nine segments of rupture area using a transect line of sea water
elevation changes due to the tsunami around the Andaman Sea captured by the
Jason 1 satellite approximately 2 h after the first earthquake [Gower, 2005]. Under
this scenario, the initial waves around the sources are presented in Fig. 2. Negative
waves were observed in the eastern part of the source.
3.2. Numerical simulations

Numerical simulations were performed using two models: the Cornell Multi-grid
Coupled Tsunami (COMCOT) model, which generates the hydrodynamic condi-
tions during the tsunami wave propagation, and Delft3D, for simulating the sed-
iment transport process, which later produced morphological changes around the
simulation domain. Delft3D was applied at the innermost layer of the simulation.
The Delft3D applies nonlinear shallow water equations (SWEs) that are suitable
for nearshore process. There are a number of studies revealed that the complexity of
onshore dynamics, at some extent, could be demonstrated by Delft3D (see Apotsos
et al. [2011a] and Robke et al. [2016]).
The linear SWEs in COMCOT are given by

∂η 1 ∂P ∂ ∂h
+ + (cos ϕQ) = − , (1)
∂t R cos ϕ ∂ψ ∂ψ ∂t
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Fig. 2. Initial waveforms around the rupture area as simulated by COMCOT, using multi-fault
scenario proposed by Romano [2009].
∂P gh ∂η
+ − fQ = 0, (2)
∂t R cos ϕ ∂ψ
∂Q gh ∂η
+ + fP = 0. (3)
∂t R ∂ψ
The nonlinear SWEs in COMCOT, which include the friction factors, are given by

∂η 1 ∂P ∂ ∂h
+ + (cos ϕQ) = − , (4)
∂t R cos ϕ ∂ψ ∂ψ ∂t
2
∂P 1 ∂ P 1 ∂ PQ gH ∂η
+ + + − fQ + Fx = 0, (5)
∂t R cos ϕ ∂ψ H R ∂ϕ H R cos ϕ ∂ψ
2
∂Q 1 ∂ PQ 1 ∂ P gH ∂η
+ + + − fP + Fy = 0, (6)
∂t R cos ϕ ∂ψ H R ∂ϕ H R ∂ϕ
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where
H = η + h, (7)
f = 2Ω sin ϕ, (8)
gn 2
Fx = 7/3 P P 2 + Q2 , (9)
H
gn2
Fy = 7/3 Q P 2 + Q2 , (10)
H
η
P = udz = u(h + η) = uH, (11)
−h

η
Q= vdz = v(h + η) = vH. (12)
−h
Here, g is the gravitational acceleration, f is the Coriolis coefficient, and P and

Q are the discharge fluxes at the x-axis (west–east flux) and y-axis (north–south),
respectively. The latitude and longitude are represented by ϕ and ψ, respectively,
and R is the Earth’s radius. H and η are the height and water elevation, respectively,
H is the total depth, and Ω is the Earth’s rotational speed (7292 × 10−5 rad/s);
Fx and Fy are the x and y components of the friction force, respectively, u and v
are the corresponding velocity components, and n is the Manning coefficient. The
equations were discretized by the leap-frog scheme in the finite difference method.
Details of the COMCOT model development were released in 2004 and 2009 [Wang
and dan Liu, 2006; Wang, 2009].
In this study, the COMCOT model was applied to five simulation layers, as
shown in Fig. 3. Details of the simulation grids and layers in COMCOT can be
seen in Table 1. The first layer (Layer 1) covers the whole rupture area around the
Indian Ocean, the Andaman Sea, and the western part of the Ulee Lheue Bay. The
innermost layer (Layer 5) covers only the Ulee Lheue Bay, located in the west part
of Banda Aceh.
Layers 1–4 were simulated in spherical coordinates, meanwhile Layer 5 was sim-
ulated in Cartesian coordinate system. The bathymetry data for the first four layers
were generated from a 2 min arc of the GEBCO data. The bathymetry data in Layer
5 were digitized from DISHIDROS of the Indonesian Navy and measured before
the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The Manning coefficients of the land and water
parts were set to 0.030 and 0.013, respectively. In the innermost layer (Layer 5), the
Manning coefficients and median grain sizes were varied in the Delft3D simulations.
The Manning coefficients followed the pre-tsunami land use units in the study area,
which were digitized from IKONOS data. The grain size data were derived from
previous measurements conducted by the Water Resources Management Unit of
Syiah Kuala University.
The morphological change around the nearshore area of the Ulee Lheue Bay was
simulated in Layer 5. Here, the waveforms generated by COMCOT under the open
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Fig. 3. Layers in COMCOT numerical simulation domain.
boundary condition of the layer were input to Delft3D, a popular tool for simulating
sediment transport processes during tsunamis [Al’ala et al., 2015; Gelfenbaum and
Jaffe, 2003; Apotsos et al., 2011c]. As the simulation area is sufficiently small,
the Delft3D simulation in Layer 5 was also implemented in Cartesian coordinates.
Delft3D models are the morphological dynamics in its MOR module [Deltares,
2009]. The initial erodible sediment in the domain was set to 5 m of the sediment
thickness. Grid size in Delft3D simulation was set to 6 m × 6 m and time interval
was set to 0.01 min.
The sediment transport equations employed in Delft3D were derived from van
Rijn [Li and Huang, 2013] and are stated below:
(ū−ūcr )2.4 d50 D∗−0.6

qs = 0.012ū , (13)
((s − 1)gd50 )1.2
2.4 1.2
ū − ūcr d50
qb = 0.005ūh . (14)
((s − 1)gd50 )0.5 h
Here, D50 is the median grain size (m), D90 is 1.5D50 , and D∗ is the dimensionless
diameter, given by D∗ = [ vg2 ]1/3 D50 .
The quantity ūcr is the critical velocity, where

0.1 12h
ūcr = 0.19(D50 ) log , for 0.0001 m ≤ D50 < 0.0005 m, (15)
3D90

0.6 12h
ūcr = 8.50(D50 ) log , for 0.0005 m ≤ D50 < 0.002 m, (16)
3D90
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Table 1. Details of grid of layers in COMCOT simulations.
Variables Layer 1 Layer 2 Layer 3 Layer 4 Layer 5

Number of grid nx = 777 nx = 595 nx = 537 nx = 213 nx = 184
ny = 898 ny = 715 ny = 519 ny = 210 ny = 188
Latitude (◦ ) 0.02083–14.971 4.016664–8.974998 5.255553–6.694442 5.501849–5.695368 5.535–5.58
Longitude (◦ ) 88.03750–100.9708 92.01666–97.97500 94.50555–95.99445 95.15185–95.34814 95.235–95.28
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Grid size (m) 1 min = 1851 m 0.5 min = 928 m 0.167 min = 309.33 m 0.056 min = 103.11 m 0.014 min = 25.78 m
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Parent grid None 1 2 3 4
Time step (s) 1 1 1 1 1
Coordinate system Spherical Spherical Spherical Spherical Cartesian
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SWE type Linear Linear Linear Nonlinear Nonlinear

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Fig. 4. Distribution of manning coefficients in Delft3D simulation.
and ū is the depth-averaged velocity, h is the depth (m), v is the velocity in the y
direction, qb is the bed-load sediment transport, and qs is the suspended sediment
transport. The critical condition of the sediment transport is determined by com-
paring the bed shear stress (τ = ρCd ū) generated by the hydraulic condition to the
critical bed shear stress (τ = ρCd ūcr ), where Cd is the drag coefficient of the bed
materials. A full documentation of sediment transport equations applied in Delft3D
can be read from van Rijn and Walstra [2004].
Figure 4 maps the Manning coefficients based on the land use units. These Man-
ning coefficients were adopted from Li et al. [2012b]. The land use types around the
Ulee Lheue Bay before the 2004 tsunami are also shown. The area was dominated
by ponds around the backside of the beach. Paddy fields also existed before the
tsunami. Forest was located at the mountainside of the study area.
3.3. Simulated observation points and cross-sections

To depict the time series and spatial changes in the coastal morphology and water
elevations induced by the tsunami wave forces, we selected some observation points
over four cross-sections (Fig. 5). Based on witness accounts and other watermarks,
the Embassy of Japan in Indonesia and the Umi Abasiah Foundation constructed
85 tsunami poles to mark the water heights around Banda Aceh [Iemura et al.,
2008]. One of these poles is located in the study area and was selected as obser-
vation point 2 in the present study. At this pole, the tsunami wave height in 2004
was approximately 10.0 m above ground level. This tsunami pole information also
provides validation data for tsunami modeling.
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Fig. 5. Locations of the numerical observation points and cross-sections.
The cross-sections monitored the seabed profile changes during the tsunami.
Cross-section 1 is located close to Tuan Island and its average slope (approximately
1:125) is the steepest among the designated cross-sections. The slopes of cross-
sections 2, 3, and 4 are approximately 1:150, 1:200, and 1:140, respectively. The
seabed profile changes were plotted at the same coordinates. One easily tracked
fixed point is the road structure, which crosses the study area in the west–east
direction. The road position and initial coastline provide references for quantifying
the changes in the seabed profiles induced by the tsunami waves.
4. Results
4.1. Inundation area and water elevation
On December 26, 2004, 15 min after the 9.1 Mw earthquake, at 07:59 am local time,
the sea water around the study area started to recede. Approximately 30 min after
the earthquake, the inundation by tsunami waves began and continued over the next
60 min. Figure 6 shows the process of the inundation area around the study site.
The limit of the inundation area was compared with the damage extent around the
Ulee Lheue Bay captured in IKONOS images collected three days after the tsunami
(on December 29, 2004). As shown in Fig. 7, the numerical results strongly agree
with the actual data provided by the IKONOS image.
The simulated wave height at the tsunami pole was approximately 10.0 m, con-
sistent with the tsunami pole data. The ground elevation around the pole was
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(a) t = 15 min (b) t = 30 min
(c) t = 42 min (d) t = 60 min

Fig. 6. Tsunami runup process at the Ulee Lheue Bay of Banda Aceh based on the numerical
simulation.
approximately +5 m from the mean sea level (MSL). During the tsunami wave
runup, the water rose to approximately 10 m above ground level (Fig. 8). The
tsunami wave height was lower than that in the eastern part of Banda Aceh, because
of the several small islands dotted around this area [Wang and Liu, 2007]. Being in
the leeward direction of the tsunami waves, these islands (including Tuan Island)
shielded the western part of the simulation domain.
4.2. Sedimentation and erosion

The sedimentation processes accompanying the tsunami waves were situated at the
limits of the inundation area and at the northern part of Tuan Island. Figure 9
maps the cumulative sedimentation and erosion thickness after 60 min of tsunami
simulation by Delft3D. Most of the erosion occurred in the eastern part of the
study area, where there were no significant barriers to tsunami wave propagation
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Fig. 7. (Color online) Limit of the inundation area based on the numerical simulation (blue-solid
line) and based on IKONOS image (red-solid line).
Fig. 8. Water elevation at observation points. OBS 2 shows the wave heights around this area
were about 10 m from the ground level.
(in contrast to the western part of the domain). The sedimentation around the
northern part of Tuan Island occurred during the down-rush of the tsunami waves,
whereas sedimentation around the inland area accompanied the up-rush. Both the
inland and sea parts of the domain were eroded during the up-rush and down-
rush processes. The shear stresses declined sharply at the inundation limits; conse-
quently, the transported sediment settled around those areas. The coastline changes
around the study area caused by the tsunami waves and the measured post-tsunami
coastline changes for comparison are shown in Fig. 9. The simulated results fairly
conform to the measured coastline.
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Fig. 9. Simulated cumulative sedimentation and erosion thickness around the Ulee Lheue Bay due
to the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. A solid-black line in the figure represents the initial coastline
before the tsunami.
4.3. Coastal profile changes

The changes of coastline after the 2004 tsunami based on numerical simulation
were compared to the actual coastline digitized from the IKONOS image, as can be
seen in Fig. 1. The impacts of the tsunami waves on the coastal bed profiles were
obtained at the cross-sectional areas and are plotted in Fig. 11. The positions of
each cross-section are referred in Fig. 5. No bed-profile data were acquired immedi-
ately after the tsunami. The earliest post-tsunami data of the coastal bed profiles
in this area were obtained in 2006 by the Public Works Department of Aceh. For
comparison with the simulated results, the 2006 data were plotted at the same
cross-sections. The seabed profiles were extensively altered in the offshore region.
Figure 11(a) plots the changes at cross-section 1, where the leeward of Tuan Island
was relatively smaller than that in other areas of the simulation domain. Erosion
occurred approximately 1250 m from the road (approximately 1 km from the initial
coastline). The eroded material was deposited at 2 km from the coastline in the
seaward direction, at the northern part of Tuan Island. Land depositions appeared
in cross-sections 2, 3, and 4. Offshore erosion appeared at 2–2.5 km from the ini-
tial coastline. Meanwhile, marine depositions were found only in cross-section 1,
which is close to Tuan Island. Other cross-sections showed no significant deposition
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Fig. 10. (Color online) Coastline changes around the Ulee Lheue Bay due to the 2004 Indian
Ocean tsunami. The red-solid line represents coastline after the tsunami based on IKONOS image
and the blue-solid line represents simulated coastline change produced by Delft3D.
process during the tsunami. Bathymetry data collected in 2006 (pink dotted circles
in Fig. 11) indicate that between the tsunami and 2006, the seabed profiles were
further changed by another series of deposition processes. These additional changes
appear in all cross-sections shown in Fig. 11.
5. Discussion
Both down-rush and up-rush processes altered the coastal morphology of the Ulee
Lheue Bay during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. Perpendicular to the wave direc-
tion, the erosion processes were significantly reduced by a small island. On the other
hand, during the down-rush process, the flowing water deposited a large amount of
sediment at the northern part of Tuan Island. Similarly, in a previous study, sed-
iments deposited by tsunamis were inferred around areas of long duration, where
current vortices are generated and strong down-rush flows do not occur. Peninsulas
are obvious examples [Kihara et al., 2012]. In the present study, such an area was
the headland of Ujong Pancu, occupying the western part of the Ulee Lheue Bay.
Land use types also influence the inland wave forces. Large amounts of sediment
were deposited on settlements and forest. The tsunami wave forces were reduced
by the steep slope (foothill) at the farther inland part of the simulation. At this
foothill, where the land suddenly became more precipitous, the saturated sediment
accumulated and suspended in the water column was deposited [Gusman et al.,
2012]. Gusman et al. [2012] also found that erosion occurs around slope breaks
near the coastline. In slope break areas, the spatial flow can accelerate sufficiently
to erode the beach.
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As evidenced in the seabed profiles, the 2004 tsunami eroded the farther off-
shore area (approximately 2.5 km from the initial coastline). This indicates that
(unlike normal wind-driven waves) the tsunami waves generated sufficient shear
stress to erode the seabed at 10 m depth. The 2006 bathymetry data reveal that
the eroded seabed profiles have gradually recovered. The nearshore process driv-
ing this recovery requires further investigation. The present simulation results are
(a) Cross-section 1
(b) Cross-section 2
Fig. 11. (Color online) Simulated seabed profiles changes due to the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami
around the Ulee Lheue Bay (colored lines) and seabed profiles measured in 2006 (pink-solid circles).
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(c) Cross-section 3
(d) Cross-section 4
Fig. 11. (Continued).
difficult to verify because bathymetry data immediately after the 2004 tsunami
are unavailable. The earliest available data for comparison were acquired in 2006.
Furthermore, a benchmark model for tsunami-driven sediment transport has not
been developed [Apotsos et al., 2011b]. Recently, a benchmark model based on two
case studies, an ancient tsunami in Mutnaya Bay of Kamchatka and a relatively
recent (1998) tsunami in Papua New Guinea, was attempted by Huntington et al.
[2007]. However, as emphasized by the authors, their benchmark tsunami-induced
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sediment transport model needs validating in further experiments and applications

to other tsunami cases.
6. Conclusions
This paper investigated the impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami on the coastal
morphological changes in Indonesia’s Ulee Lheue Bay (Banda Aceh). The tsunami
wave propagation and its accompanying sediment transport processes were numer-
ically simulated in COMCOT and Delft3D, respectively. A small island located in

the bay significantly reduced the tsunami wave forces, later reducing the erosion at
the beach perpendicular to the tsunami wave. Later, the down-rush process of the
tsunami waves deposited a large amount of sediment in the northern area of the
small island. Inland sediment deposition was found around the limits of the inunda-
tion area, where the energy of the waves was suddenly reduced. The simulations also
successfully mimicked the tsunami inundation area. The coastline changes induced
by the tsunami were fairly matched to actual data (IKONOS image). In future
work, the sediment transport simulations will be trialed on the coastal morphology
recovery around the Ulee Lheue Bay, as revealed by the 2006 bathymetry data.
Acknowledgments
Authors are thankful to Partnerships Enhanced Engagement in Research (PEER)
promoted by USAID and National Academy of Sciences (NAS) by granting a
research grant in Cycle 3 Sponsor Grant Award Number: AID-OAAA-A-11-00012
and Sub Grant Number PGA-2000004893 with research project title: Tsunami
Waves Impacts on Coastal Morphological Changes Based on Sediment Transport
Simulations. Authors are also grateful for supports and contribution from Profes-
sor Philip L.-F. Liu of Cornell University as our research collaborator for PEER
USAID. His advices and time for discussion of this research are highly appreci-
ated. Our appreciation also goes to Teuku M. Rasyif, who supervised our junior
researchers for tsunami modeling.
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Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004

Changes Around the Ulee Lheue Bay

Syamsidik∗,†,§ , Tursina∗,‡,¶ , Asrita Meutia∗,‡, , Musa Al’ala∗,‡,∗∗ ,

Syiah Kuala University, Jl. Syeh Abdurrauf

Syiah Kuala University, Jl. Syeh Abdurrauf

Accepted 29 September 2016

Keywords: COMCOT; Delft3D; coastline; sedimentation; tsunami.

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

This study was implemented in two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) numerical simu-

3.1. Fault mechanism

3.2. Numerical simulations

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Here, g is the gravitational acceleration, f is the Coriolis coeﬃcient, and P and

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Fig. 3. Layers in COMCOT numerical simulation domain.

(ū−ūcr )2.4 d50 D∗−0.6

Table 1. Details of grid of layers in COMCOT simulations.

Variables Layer 1 Layer 2 Layer 3 Layer 4 Layer 5

SWE type Linear Linear Linear Nonlinear Nonlinear

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Fig. 4. Distribution of manning coeﬃcients in Delft3D simulation.

3.3. Simulated observation points and cross-sections

Fig. 5. Locations of the numerical observation points and cross-sections.

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

(a) t = 15 min (b) t = 30 min

(c) t = 42 min (d) t = 60 min

4.2. Sedimentation and erosion

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

4.3. Coastal profile changes

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

sediment transport model needs validating in further experiments and applications

ically simulated in COMCOT and Delft3D, respectively. A small island located in

Deltares [2009] User Manual Delft3D-FLOW : Simulation of Multi-Dimensional Hydrody-

Nga, Banda Aceh, Indonesia,” Earth Planets Space 64, 817–827.

Numerical Simulations of Impacts of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami

Romano, F. [2009] The Rupture Process of Recent Tsunamigenic Earthquake by Geophys-

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