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MASSIMO BOTTURA

& FRIENDS

BREAD
IS
GOLD
EXTRAORDINARY MEALS
WITH ORDINARY INGREDIENTS
MASSIMO BOTTURA
& FRIENDS

BREAD
IS
GOLD
EXTRAORDINARY MEALS
WITH ORDINARY INGREDIENTS

2
INTRODUCTION: BREAD IS GOLD 7 VIVIANA VARESE 122 ANDREAS CAMINADA 222 MATT ORLANDO 324

DANIEL HUMM 10 LUCA FANTIN 130 FERRAN & GEORGE BROWN


ALBERT ADRIÀ 234 CANADA COOKING SCHOOL 332

MASSIMO BOTTURA 18 DANIEL PATTERSON 138

PETTER NILSSON 242 VIRGILIO MARTÍNEZ 340

MAURO COLAGRECO 26 MA R K MO R IA RTY 146

CARLO CRACCO 250 Jeremy Charles &


R E N É RE DZEPI 34 GASTROMOTIVA 154 John Winter Russell 348

BASQUE CULINARY CENTER &


Yoshihiro Narisawa 42 Joan Roca 162 JUAN MARI ARZAK 258 MARIO BATALI 356

ENRICO & ROBERTO CEREA 50 ALMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL MICHEL TROISGROS 266 ANA ROS 364

OF ITALIAN CUISINE 170


YANNICK ALLÉNO 58
MSA CULIN A RY A RTS A CA DE MY MORENO CEDRONI 372

ANTONIA KLUGMANN & OF ISTA N BUL 274


GASTÓN ACURIO 66 FABRIZIO MANTOVANI 178 MAURO ULIASSI 380

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ 282


ANDREA BERTON & CHARITY DINNER: GENNARO ESPOSITO 388

DAVIDE OLDANI 74 MATÍAS PERDOMO, JESSICA MURPHY 290

ENRIQUE OLVERA, CARLES MAMPEL,


SARA PAPA & ALBERTO C ALAMANDREI 82 CARLOS GARCÍA & Manuel & Christian Costardi 298 ANTONIO BACHOUR &
RODOLFO GUZMÁN 186 ORIOL BALAGUER 396

ANTONIO, ALBERTO & GIOVANNI SANTINI 90


ALEX ATALA 306

CRISTINA BOWERMAN 198 PINO CUTTAIA 404

UGO ALCIATI 98
CHARITY DINNER:
Alessandro Negrini & ALEX ATALA, ALICE DELCOURT 412

MITSUHARU TSUMURA 106 Fabio Pisani 206 MATT ORLANDO,


NIKO ROMITO &
ALAIN DUCASSE 114 GIU S E PPE PALM IE R I 214 MASSIMO BOTTURA 314 INDEX 420
Daniel Humm I think he was touched to inaugurate mom always used to make was gaz-
the kitchen. He seemed to genuinely pacho, which is the perfect recipe for
There was a layer of dust on everything. appreciate the craftsmanship that went overripe tomatoes and day-old bread.
We had been under renovation for three into the oak tables, each one designed But we were cooking in May and there
months and although we were basically by a different artist, the artwork on were not any overripe tomatoes, so
ready to open when Daniel Humm, the the walls, the original cement tile when we saw the crates of strawberries,
Swiss chef behind Eleven Madison Park floors, and the vaulted tin ceiling in the the decision was made on the spot!”
in New York City, and his team arrived, kitchen. Later he confessed to Lara, The recipes they made are perfect for
what they saw probably shocked them. “You know when Massimo first told me large gatherings because they can be
I was sweeping the floor. My wife, Lara, about it, there were questions if this made ahead of time and then brought
and the project manager, Cristina, were ever could happen, but Massimo is so to temperature at the last minute.
outside removing the plastic from all passionate and when he starts talking Gazpacho, gratin, and bread pudding
the chairs that had just been deliv- you think that it is just talk, but it’s all all make great leftovers, too, because
ered. Seen Lippert, a chef visiting from here, it’s all real, and it’s unbelievable.” they taste even better the next day.
New York, was diligently cleaning the
kitchen counters, stovetops, and sur- We had opened a week early to receive Daniel is not a big talker. He has an
faces that had never been used. We were Daniel and his team. Our guests were ability to listen and synthesize his
still waiting for a few tables to arrive, scheduled to begin coming for dinner thoughts with great economy. At the
but the refrigerator was full. The first the following week. That night, as a end, he told me, “When you look at a lot
delivery of ingredients had come in that substitute, we hosted one hundred hot of famous traditional dishes, they have
morning: lots of strawberries in various and tired high school students from been created out of necessity, right?
stages of maturity; lots of zucchini Modena who were returning from a day And mostly waste, stuff that was left
(courgettes) with spotty signs of aging; at the Expo fairgrounds. Little did they over.” Daniel, with his Swiss precision,
turkey and beef hamburger patties still know a three-Michelin-star chef would had just summed up the project that
in their packages; and a bag of stale be cooking dinner. The group brought we had only just begun.
bread from the bakery across the street. the energy and enthusiasm that we
all needed to relieve the stress of the
Daniel was the first chef to cook at the opening—and they were honored to
Refettorio. It wasn’t my intention to put be the first guests.
that kind of pressure on him because
he is one of the nicest people I know. The meal was seasonal, tasty, and
When I saw him in London only a month unfussy. Both strawberries and cherries
earlier, he mentioned he would be were in season and, like so much
cooking in Milan in May for the James seasonal fruit, were very perishable.
Beard Foundation and I jumped on the In fact, there were large quantities of
opportunity. Actually, we asked a lot of questionable strawberries to clean and
chefs to help us out that summer in the separate for a gazpacho (a perfect
same way: If they were coming to town to substitution as tomatoes weren’t in
visit or cook at Expo (the six-month uni- season yet, and the soup’s pink color
versal exposition in Milan), we invited was a fun surprise). A gratin was a
them to stay an extra day and cook with brilliant solution for the less than
us. Surprisingly, many did, and even perfect condition of the zucchini and
more surprisingly, we found that many meat. An herbed tomato/meat was
chefs who had just prepared a high-end layered with the zucchini like a lasagna,
meal for paying guests, now brought a topped with béchamel and grated
heightened sense of urgency and appre- Parmigiano, and baked. They made
ciation to the project of cooking with us bread pudding for dessert, which is not
in less than perfect circumstances. an Italian recipe. I had never actually
tasted bread pudding until that night,
I was thrilled that Daniel was here, but but over the months to come I would try
I was nervous. I had invited one of the many versions of it. In Italy, we use stale
best chefs in the world to cook in a soup bread in many savory dishes, but very
kitchen with humble, even ugly, ingredi- few sweet ones.
ents, for a group of people who had little
or no idea who he was and probably did Being resourceful in the kitchen by
not even care. I wasn’t sure he knew working with what you have on hand
what he had gotten himself into. When is a skill and it takes practice. Daniel
Daniel arrived, I walked him around, explained, “We went through a lot of
describing every table and object. ideas, very quickly, but one thing my

6 May 28 Daniel Humm 7


8 May 28 Daniel Humm 9
STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO ZUCCHINI AND BEEF GRATIN

Serves 8 Serves 8

11 oz (310 g) stale bread, cut into ¹⁄ -inch (1 cm) cubes 2¼cups (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
³
2 red bell peppers, diced 2 onions, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced
4 English cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced 2¼lb (1 kg) ground (minced) beef, lamb, turkey, or pork
2 garlic cloves, sliced Salt
1¾ lb (800 g) strawberries, halved 1 can (28 oz/795 g) whole peeled tomatoes
²⁄ cup (165 ml) canned tomato juice Leaves from 2 sprigs oregano, chopped
³
¾ cup (175 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more 2 teaspoons dried thyme
for drizzling 7 zucchini (courgettes), cut into slices ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
generous ¹⁄ cup (85 ml) red wine vinegar 7 tablespoons (100 g) butter
³
Salt ¾ cup (100 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
Handful of small basil leaves 4¼ cups (1 liter) milk, warmed
Freshly ground black pepper 3 large eggs

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Line a baking In a large pot, heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil over
sheet with parchment paper. medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until
Arrange 7 oz (200 g) of the bread on the baking sheet and toast tender, about 7 minutes. Add the meat, season with salt,
until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Set the croutons aside. and cook, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about
In a large bowl, toss together the remaining bread, bell 15 minutes. Remove the meat from the pot and set aside.
peppers, cucumbers, garlic, strawberries, tomato juice, olive Drain off any rendered fat. Add the tomatoes, oregano, and
oil, and vinegar. Cover and marinate overnight in the fridge. thyme to the pot and season with salt. Cook over low heat
Transfer the ingredients to a blender and blend until until thick, about 10 minutes. Return the meat to the pan and
smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Season to taste stir to combine. Set the sauce aside.
with salt. In another large pot, heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil
To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Drizzle with olive oil over high heat. Season the zucchini (courgette) slices with
and garnish with the basil, black pepper, and croutons. salt. Working in small batches, add to the pot and sear, cara-
melizing the slices on both sides, about 4 minutes. Add more
P. 15 oil as necessary. Transfer to paper towels to drain any excess
oil. Set aside.
RECIPE NOTES: In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium heat
until foamy but not browned. Slowly add the flour and cook,
whisking constantly, for about 7 minutes. Slowly add the
milk, continuing to whisk until the milk comes to a simmer
and thickens, about 10 minutes. Season to taste
with salt. Strain the béchamel through a fine-mesh sieve.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas Mark 5).
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with a wire whisk. Slowly
whisk 1 cup (200 ml) of the warm béchamel into the eggs,
whisking constantly so as not to cook the eggs. Stir into the
remaining béchamel.
Spread one-sixth of the meat mixture in the bottom of each
of two 9 x 13-inch (23 x 33 cm) baking pans. Make a single
layer of zucchini over the beef. Continue making alternate
layers of beef and zucchini in both pans, finishing with the
zucchini. Cover both pans completely with the béchamel
mixture. Transfer to the oven and bake until bubbling on
the sides and the center of the béchamel is completely set,
about 6 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for at least
10 minutes before serving.

P. 16

RECIPE NOTES:

10 Daniel Humm
BREAD PUDDING WITH RED WINE MAKE THE VANILLA ICE CREAM
CHERRY SAUCE AND VANILLA ICE CREAM
In a medium pot, bring the cream to a simmer over medium
Serves 8 heat. Remove the cream from the heat and scrape in the
vanilla seeds, adding the pods as well. Cover and let steep at
BREAD PUDDING room temperature for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture through
2 tablespoons (30 g) butter a fine-mesh sieve.
scant 2 cups (450 ml) milk In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar
scant 2 cups (450 ml ) heavy (whipping) cream until creamy. Slowly whisk the cream mixture into the egg
2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise mixture, whisking constantly so as not to cook the eggs.
4 eggs Transfer to a medium pot and cook over medium heat,
4 egg yolks (see Note) whisking constantly until the mixture reaches 181°F (83°C).
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (175 g) granulated sugar Whisk in the salt. Strain the mixture again through a fine-
¼ teaspoon salt mesh sieve into a clean bowl and chill over a bowl filled with
2¼ lb (1 kg) stale brioche, diced ice and water.
Transfer to an ice-cream machine and process according
VANILLA ICE CREAM to the manufacturer’s instructions. (If you don’t have an
6¹⁄ cups (1.5 liters) heavy (whipping) cream ice-cream machine, freeze the mixture until hard enough
³
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise to scoop.)
4 egg yolks (see Note)
scant 1 ½ cups (285 g) granulated sugar MAKE THE RED WINE CHERRY SAUCE
½ teaspoon salt
Set up a large bowl of ice and water. In a medium pot,
RED WINE CHERRY SAUCE combine the wine and half of the dried cherries. Bring to a
1½ cups (375 ml) red wine simmer over medium heat and cook to reduce the wine by
4½ oz (125 g) dried cherries one-fourth, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add the
4 tablespoons granulated sugar sugar and cornstarch, and blend. Strain the mixture through
2 teaspoons cornstarch (cornflour) a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot. Bring to a simmer over
medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, for 10 minutes.
MAKE THE BREAD PUDDING Add the remaining cherries and cook for 5 minutes more.
Remove from the heat and let cool.
In a medium pot, combine the milk and cream and bring to
a simmer over medium heat. Remove the milk from the heat TO SERVE
and scrape in the vanilla seeds and add the pods. Cover and
let steep at room temperature for 20 minutes. Serve the warm bread pudding topped with the ice cream and
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Butter two the red wine cherry sauce.
9-inch (22 cm) round cake pans.
In a large bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, Note: Save the egg whites to make Meringues (pages 32 or 387).
and sugar, whisking well to combine. Strain the steamed milk
mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and slowly add it to the RECIPE NOTES:
egg mixture, whisking constantly so as not to cook the eggs.
Whisk in the salt. Divide the diced bread among the prepared
pans and pour the custard over the bread to completely cover.
Top each pan with several nubs of butter. Wrap each pan
tightly with foil.
Transfer the pans to one or more roasting pans and add
water to come halfway up the sides of the pans. Transfer to
the oven and bake the puddings until the custard is set,
45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the foil and bake until the tops
are golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Let stand at room
temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

>>

 RECIPE P. 14 Daniel Humm 13


René Redzepi fruit; and meat, fish, chicken, and René is at his most articulate when he is
dairy close to their expiration dates. moving around the kitchen and talking
I met René Redzepi during the summer We wanted to show the public that at the same time. Our guests were
of 2000 at Ferran Adrià’s restaurant with some imagination chefs could about to arrive and he was checking
elBulli. We were in very different stages turn these ingredients into tasty and on the hamburger buns in the oven,
of our careers. I was five years into my healthy meals. adding greens to each bowl of soup, and
second restaurant and my wife was putting everything in place for the rush
eight months pregnant with our second When I arrived, the kitchen was going of service while he talked about why he
child. René was a kid ready to take at full speed. René and Beau Clugston, was here cooking: “I think everybody
on the world. His mission of putting the Australian-born sous-chef of Noma has a responsibility. You know. So why
Nordic cuisine on the map was still a at the time, had already unloaded the shouldn’t a chef also? If you’re a chef, if
pipe dream. I liked René because he truck and were prepping for dinner. you’re a lawyer, or if you’re the CEO of
wasn’t there stealing secret recipes or Across the kitchen I spotted our mutual a company, it’s the same gesture. But
hunting for techniques like most of friend, food journalist Joanna Savill, I believe it comes naturally for a lot of
the chefs around us. He was there to who had chosen to spend her two-week cooks to want to take care of somebody,
soak up Ferran’s folly and magic. We Italian holiday volunteering in the because that’s what we do every day. You
all worked like dogs and were so tired Refettorio kitchen. She was elbow deep feed them. You feed people.”
that we took catnaps between lunch and in strawberry mush. Her fingers were
dinner leaning against the maritime red, cut, and chafed from going through All of us—the kitchen staff and the
pines in the shade. fifteen blue plastic crates of strawber- volunteers serving the meal—took this
ries. René was burning limes over an dinner very seriously. René and Beau had
After elBulli, René returned to Denmark open flame on the stovetop while a large cooked the night before at the Bulgari
and eventually opened Noma, a restau- pot of broth was simmering. Beau was Hotel for elite guests and we could all
rant that changed the face of Nordic slicing eggplants (aubergines) into see he was dedicating the same amount
gastronomy forever. We reunited in 2009 disks. Alessandra, a pastry chef from of attention to this meal. The food had
in Copenhagen for the first gathering Modena, was shaping the hamburger to be served at the right temperature and
of Cook It Raw, a chef-driven event buns. René gave me a quick rundown plated properly. Most of all, it had to be
focused on sustainability. Success had of the situation while he worked: “This good. There were no excuses.
driven him into the limelight and yet he morning we found a lot of fruit, almost
remained the earnest young man I knew no vegetables, some hamburger patties, After service we were all exhausted,
back then; determined, focused, and some herbs, and two cases of limes. some of us were eating, others were
always looking ahead. We became close It was pointless to come with an idea, cleaning the kitchen, and René and
again and on occasion we conspired because you don’t know what’s going Beau were packing up their things. Just
about organizing something really off to come in. What if you’d decided on before René rolled his suitcases out the
the hook and unexpected, like cooking a ragù and fish came in?” door, he said to me: “Do you know the
for people who didn’t know or care who first memory I have of you, Massimo, is
we were, but I don’t think either one Letting nothing get in the way of flavor, overcooked pasta at elBulli? Somebody
of us ever imagined that someday we René sautéed wilted zucchini (cour- overcooked the pasta and you freaked
would end up cooking in a soup kitchen. gettes), pureed them, and served them out, really freaked out and you threw
with the pasta. He transformed random it into the ocean . . . the pasta! Do you
René had been addressing the issue vegetables into a rich and flavorful remember that? So I guess the pasta
of food waste by installing a policy of burnt lime soup, and a tray of strawber- needs to be cooked right . . . otherwise
“Trash Cooking” at Noma, which meant ries into heavenly ice cream. Working in it gets wasted!”
that virtually nothing edible would be the Refettorio kitchen meant being very
wasted: skins, seeds, guts, etc. were resourceful and looking in every nook
used to make something rather than and cranny for ingredients that could
being thrown away. René explained make the difference. For example, René
that Trash Cooking was used not only found two bags of popcorn kernels in
to address food waste, but also for the pantry and put them on the counter.
innovation: “When we’d run out of Over at the basil counter, there were
ingredients, we started looking at what fifty or more bunches of browned basil
we threw in the trash. And it was a huge to weed through for pesto but we were
creative catalyst for us. An eye-opener.” low on pine nuts. Pesto for two hundred
people requires a lot of pine nuts and
At the Refettorio we were not using food there was only a small package. So René
from the trash can but products that started making popcorn. He blended it
were at high risk of being thrown into with the basil, oil, garlic, and cheese in
the trash. Every morning we received the mixer. And it worked. The rest of the
wilted vegetables; bruised or overripe popcorn was served in place of bread.

14 June 16 René Redzepi 15


16 June 16 René Redzepi 17
BURNT LIME SOUP PASTA WITH POPCORN PESTO

Serves 8 Serves 8

LIME OIL POPCORN PESTO


Grated zest of 1 lime 3 tablespoons corn oil
scant ½ cup (100 ml) grapeseed oil generous 2 tablespoons popcorn kernels
1 garlic clove, minced
VEGETABLE BROTH Leaves from 4 bunches basil, washed and chopped
6 limes Leaves from 1 bunch cilantro (coriander), washed
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil and chopped
3½ oz (100 g) white onions, slivered 1¼ cups (275 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
7 oz (200 g) Jerusalem artichokes, sliced ¹⁄ inch 3½ oz (100 g) pine nuts (see Note)
³
(1 cm) thick Grated zest of 1 lemon, plus more to taste
3½ oz (100 g) carrots, sliced ¹⁄ inch (1 cm) thick Salt and freshly ground black pepper
³
3½ oz (100 g) turnips, sliced 13 inch (1 cm) thick
3½ oz (100 g) celeriac, peeled and sliced ¹⁄ inch PASTA
³
(1 cm) thick 2¼ lb (1 kg) short pasta (such as penne, tortiglioni, or fusili)
3½ oz (100 g) potatoes, peeled and sliced ¹⁄ inch Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
³
(1 cm) thick Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
3½ oz (100 g) apples, sliced ¹⁄ inch (1 cm) thick
³
1 bunch lemon thyme MAKE THE POPCORN PESTO
¼ oz (10 g) dried mushrooms
16 chicory leaves In a medium pot, heat the corn oil over high heat. Just as
16 mustard leaves the oil begins to smoke, add the popcorn and quickly cover
Salt and freshly ground black pepper with a lid. Vigorously shake the pan while the popcorn begins
scant ½ cup (10 g) basil, chopped to pop. Once the popping begins to subside, remove from
scant ½ cup (10 g) cilantro (coriander), chopped the heat and continue shaking for about 1 minute. Once
cool, remove the popcorn and discard any unpopped kernels.
MAKE THE LIME OIL Transfer to a food processor and blend into medium-size
bits. Set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together the lime zest and grapeseed In a blender, combine the garlic, basil, cilantro (coriander),
oil. Set aside. and olive oil and process until smooth. Add the pine nuts and
pulse until lightly crush. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the
MAKE THE VEGETABLE BROTH lemon zest and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the popcorn and gently mix to combine. Set aside.
Char the limes until completely blackened over the open
flame of a stove burner (or under a hot broiler [grill] if you PREPARE THE PASTA
don’t have a gas stove). Let cool, then quarter. Set aside.
In a large pot, heat the grapeseed oil over medium heat. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over
Add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 6 minutes. medium heat. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain
Add the Jerusalem artichokes, carrots, turnips, celeriac, pota- and transfer to the bowl with the popcorn pesto. Gently stir to
toes, and apples and cook until aromatic, about 10 minutes. coat the pasta evenly. Adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper,
Add the lemon thyme, dried mushrooms, and 2 quarts and lemon zest.
(2 liters) water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce To serve, divide the pasta among 8 bowls and garnish with
to a simmer, add the limes, and cook to reduce by half, about a drizzle of olive oil and some Parmigiano.
40 minutes. Add the chicory and mustard leaves and let rest
for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Note: If you don't have pine nuts, add more popcorn.

TO SERVE RECIPE NOTES:

Ladle the soup into 8 bowls. Sprinkle with the basil and
cilantro (coriander) and drizzle with the lime oil.

Note: You can use any root vegetables you have on hand.

P. 39

18 René Redzepi
HAMBURGERS MAKE THE HOMEMADE KETCHUP In a bowl, combine the yeast and 1½ tablespoons of the MAKE THE MACERATED STRAWBERRIES
WITH EGGPLANT AND HOMEMADE KETCHUP sugar. In a medium pot, warm the milk over medium heat
In a pan, heat the grapeseed oil over medium heat. Add the to 77°F (25°C). Pour over the yeast and sugar and whisk until In a large bowl, combine the strawberries and verjus. Using
Serves 8 shallots and garlic and sauté until lightly golden, 5 minutes. small bubbles form. Cover with plastic wrap (clingfilm) and a small sieve, dust the powdered (icing) sugar over the fruit.
Add the vinegar, stirring to release any caramelized bits on let sit for 10 minutes. Remove the plastic wrap and transfer Gently mix, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Adjust the
CRUMBLED HAMBURGERS the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and to a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment. Add sweetness with more sugar and season with salt, if needed.
1½ lb (700 g) ground (minced) beef add the tomato paste (puree), thyme, bay leaves, and 1 cup the flour and 7 of the eggs and mix on low speed for 1 minute. Cover and set aside.
½ cup (30 g) chopped parsley (250 ml) water, stirring to mix thoroughly. Simmer until the Add the remaining 5½ tablespoons sugar and salt and mix
½ cup (30 g) chopped lovage or celery leaves consistency of ketchup, 5 minutes. Remove the thyme stems on medium speed for 10 minutes. Add the butter, one piece MAKE THE STRAWBERRY SORBET
1½ teaspoons sea salt and bay leaves and season to taste with salt. Set aside. at a time, and beat until fully incorporated. Transfer to a large
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper container coated with cooking spray. Cover with plastic wrap In a small bowl, soak the gelatin in cold water until soft,
1¼ teaspoons freshly ground mustard seeds MAKE THE FRIED EGGPLANT and let rise for 8 hours. about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
or mustard powder Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or coat with In a medium pot, combine the strawberries, birch syrup,
2 teaspoons grapeseed oil Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Arrange the egg- cooking spray. Divide the dough into 2-ounce (60 g) portions, sugar, and condensed milk and cook until the strawberries
1½ cups (200 g) all-purpose (plain) flour plants (aubergines) on the lined sheets, sprinkle with salt on shape into balls, and place on the baking sheet. Cover with have softened and released most of their liquid, about
8 eggs, lightly beaten both sides, and let stand for 30 minutes. Transfer to paper plastic wrap and let rise until the buns have doubled in size, 20 minutes. Remove a small amount of the strawberry liquid
7 oz (200 g) stale bread, finely crumbled (3½ cups) towels and press to absorb the excess liquid. 30 to 45 minutes. and transfer to a small bowl. Add the gelatin and stir to dis-
In a large frying pan, heat the grapeseed oil over medium- Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). solve. Return to the strawberry mixture. Using a hand blender
HOMEMADE KETCHUP high heat. Working in batches, add the eggplant without In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg. Apply a thin or food processer, blend until smooth. Pass through a fine-
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil overcrowding the pan and cook until lightly browned, about layer of the whisked egg to the buns, and lightly sprinkle with mesh sieve into a bowl and place in larger bowl filled with ice
2 shallots, finely minced 3 minutes. Turn and brown the other side. Transfer to a tray the sesame seeds. and water to cool.
2 garlic cloves, finely minced lined with paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Transfer to Bake until golden brown and 203°F (95°C) in the center, Transfer the cooled mixture to an ice-cream machine and
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar another tray and drizzle with the balsamic vinegar. Set aside. 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool on wire racks. process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (If you
1 cup (9 oz/250 g) tomato paste (puree) don’t have an ice-cream machine, freeze the mixture until
5 sprigs thyme TO ASSEMBLE hard enough to scoop.)
2 fresh bay leaves STRAWBERRIES WITH BANANA BREAD
Salt Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3). MAKE THE BANANA BREAD
In a large frying pan, heat the grapeseed oil over medium- Serves 8
FRIED EGGPLANT high heat. Working in batches, add the hamburger patties, Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Coat a 5 x
2 lb (800 kg) eggplants (aubergines), cut crosswise reduce the heat to medium, and cook until browned, 5 MACERATED STRAWBERRIES 9-inch (13 x 23 cm) baking pan with cooking spray, line with
in slices ¹⁄ inch (1 cm) thick minutes. Flip and brown on the other side, 5 minutes more. 1 lb 2 oz (500 g) strawberries, quartered parchment paper, and coat the paper with cooking spray.
³
Salt Transfer to a tray lined with paper towels and season with salt. ¹⁄ cup (75 ml) red verjus or raspberry vinegar In a small pot, heat the butter over low heat and stir until
³
2 cups (440 ml) grapeseed oil Meanwhile, place the fried eggplant on a baking sheet and ¾ cups (90 g) powdered (icing) sugar light brown. Set aside.
4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar transfer to the oven to reheat. Salt (optional) In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda
Split the buns horizontally, place on a baking sheet cut (bicarbonate of soda), and salt. Set aside.
FOR ASSEMBLY AND SERVING side up, and toast in the oven for 2 minutes. Spread the STRAWBERRY SORBET In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, for the burgers toasted buns with the melted butter. 1½ gelatin sheets using a hand mixer, mix the bananas and brown sugar on
Salt 1¾ lb (750 g) strawberries, chopped medium-low speed until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time,
8 brioche hamburger buns, homemade (recipe follows) TO SERVE 2 tablespoons birch syrup (or substitute with maple syrup) on medium speed, beating well after each addition. Turn the
or store-bought ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar speed down to low and carefully add the dry ingredients in
7 tablespoons (100 g) butter, melted Place the patties in the buns and top with 3 or 4 pieces of fried 1½ tablespoons condensed milk three additions. Add the butter and mix to combine.
3½ oz (100 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, thickly shaved, eggplant, slathering a small spoonful of the tomato ketchup Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and bake
for serving over each piece. Garnish with thick shavings of Parmigiano. BANANA BREAD until a wooden skewer inserted in the center comes out clean,
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons (150 g) butter 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the pan front to back halfway
MAKE THE CRUMBLED HAMBURGER BRIOCHE BUNS 2¾ cups (380 g) all-purpose (plain) flour through. Let cool in the pans on a wire rack.
2½ teaspoons baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
In a large bowl, mix together the beef, parsley, lovage, salt, Makes 30 buns ½ teaspoons salt TO SERVE
pepper, mustard, and oil. Vigorously fold and beat the meat 5 overripe bananas (see Note)
with the palm of your hand until the mixture becomes more 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons active dried yeast 1¹⁄8 cups (215 g) packed dark brown sugar Divide the macerated strawberries among 8 bowls and
opaque and white, about 5 minutes (the mixture should not be 7 tablespoons granulated sugar 6 eggs garnish with the lemon verbena, pineapple mint, or flower
crumbly). Divide evenly into 8 portions and shape into patties. scant ½ cup (100 ml) milk petals. Top with a scoop of the strawberry sorbet and a slice
Set up 3 shallow bowls: one for the flour, a second for the 5¾ cups (750 g) all-purpose (plain) flour GARNISH of the banana bread.
eggs, and a third for the breadcrumbs. Coat the patties in the 8 eggs Lemon verbena leaves, pineapple mint leaves, or edible
flour, dusting off any excess, then quickly dip into the eggs, 4 teaspoons salt flower petals Note: Save the peels to make Banana Peel Chutney (page 158).
and finally into the breadcrumbs. Transfer to a container, 2 sticks plus 5 tablespoons (300 g) butter, cubed,
cover, and refrigerate until ready to cook. at room temperature >> RECIPE NOTES:
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
>>
>>

20 René Redzepi René Redzepi 21


Alain Ducasse walking into an empty kitchen. Ducasse that you read: Peaks in obesity and
was nowhere to be seen, nor were the hunger and enough wasted food to
How do I introduce you to Alain chefs from our team who had caught an feed a nation. Off the top of his head he
Ducasse? He is a legend in the culinary earlier train to help in the kitchen. quoted Jacques Cousteau, the pioneer
world, like Björn Borg is to tennis; of marine conservation, who said some-
but to me he is much more than that. Suddenly, Emmanuelle Perrier, Alain's thing very true: “People protect and
I was a young, self-taught chef running long-time assistant, waved from the respect what they love.” He continued
a roadside restaurant six miles (ten dining room and said, “They are all in making the parallel, “That is exactly
kilometers) from Modena in the early the walk-in.” what we, chefs, must do: make the ‘no
1990s. I was taking a break from waste’ attitude desirable—a happy and
peeling potatoes sitting in the back It was a sight to behold. Four chefs delicious way of eating.”
courtyard of Trattoria del Campazzo standing hunched over a makeshift
and flipping through a magazine when table (a cardboard box resting on plastic Anyone who has had the pleasure of
I saw a picture of Alain. It wasn’t a crates), rolling meatballs in the cold experiencing a Ducassian meal, today or
food magazine, it was about business, walk-in refrigerator. They had tried to thirty years ago, knows this approach to
lifestyle, and people. It was love at first make the meatballs in the kitchen, but ingredients has always been part of his
sight. This chef was revolutionizing they wouldn’t stick together in the heat. culinary philosophy. Leaves of root veg-
French cuisine and bringing it back to etables or pea pods or even potato skins
its peasant roots with a deep focus on Ducasse had been there at 9 a.m. sharp are used in many recipes. I remember
products, artisans, farmers, and ingre- when the delivery truck arrived and distinctly the fish trimmings that were
dients. He was one of the first farm-to- unloaded his supplies. He took a crate used for stocks. Ducasse reminded
table chefs not cooking in the coun- of goat milk and goat cheese. The only me, “When you use a good product—
tryside or on a farm but in downtown vegetables that day were big bruised and ours are exceptional—the entire
Monte Carlo, at his restaurant Le Louis eggplants (aubergines), which he would product is worth being used.”
XV. I decided then and there that I had puree into a cream. The meat—a combi-
to meet Alain. nation of chicken, veal, and beef—was So often chefs both in restaurants and
mixed with herbs and spices and rolled at home do not look at the whole ingre-
To make a long story short, he came to into the meatballs. And some golden dient, the leaves, the stems, the skins,
visit me. A balsamic vinegar producer barley in the pantry would become a the bones, and the parts that are not
from Modena brought Ducasse to chilled multigrain velouté with goat necessarily on the desirable list but are
Trattoria del Campazzo for lunch to cheese. The dessert made the best of the essential to any tasty kitchen. Ducasse
close a deal with him and that was the only fruit available, rhubarb and straw- seemed to think things were changing
beginning of our beautiful friendship. berries. It was a balanced, flavorful, and and I said, “Our young commis realize
Two months later I sold the trattoria light menu for a hot summer’s eve. that using the entire product is not only
and moved to Monte Carlo to work at challenging, but it enriches the end
Le Louis XV. The rest is history. Later, after the guests had eaten, Lara, result. The same goes for our clients:
Ducasse, and I talked while we had our When they see what is on their plates,
Alain was one of the first chefs that came meal. Ducasse told us stories about and when they taste it, they realize how
to mind when I was dreaming about growing up on a farm in the Southwest good it is. I believe this is the most
this project. I knew that he would be of France and how a life like that leaves effective way of making change.”
curious to work in a kitchen so different an imprint on you forever. He said,
from the Michelin-starred ones he was “Virtually nothing was thrown away or As we were saying goodbye he whispered
used to. We agreed he would cook on lost. Peelings or stale bread, for instance, in my ear, “Massimo, the meal was very,
July 14—which I forgot was my wedding were given to poultry.” This reminded very modest, but we made it with care so
anniversary. When July came around me of my childhood, because (although I’m sure it is in harmony with this place
and Lara asked, “What do you want to we didn’t have chickens), my grand- and its vision. Voilà, simplicity.”
do for our twentieth anniversary?” what mother would gather the crumbs from
could I say? So I replied, “Do you want the table and save them all week to make It was a good anniversary because Lara
to celebrate at Plaza Athénée, Louis XV, the dough for passatelli on Sundays. and I felt like we had something to
or the Refettorio Ambrosiano?” Lara im- It was my favorite meal of the week. celebrate other than our marriage, the
mediately understood that my question restaurant, and our family: We were
was rhetorical. This would be a once in Ducasse went on to talk about his grand- celebrating the future. We had believed
a lifetime anniversary. mother, “When my grandmother was in an impossible dream and it had come
preparing the meals for the family, she true. We both felt we had stumbled onto
All July was hot but I think the four- would ask me to pick four carrots from something that would define the twenty
teenth was the hottest day of the the kitchen garden. I never picked five.” years to come.
summer with temperatures hovering at
104°F (40°C). Lara and I arrived in Milan We talked about the challenges of
in the late afternoon and I remember food waste and the shocking numbers

22 July 14 Alain Ducasse 23


24 July 14 Alain Ducasse 25
CREAM OF MIXED GRAINS MAKE THE GOAT MILK ROYALE
WITH PUFFED RICE AND GOAT MILK ROYALE
In a small bowl, soak the gelatin in cold water until soft,
Serves 8 about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan, heat the goat milk over medium
CREAM OF GRAINS heat. Add the garlic, sage, saffron, cumin, and salt and pepper
1¾ cups (400 g) wheat berries (whole grain) to taste. Simmer until the garlic is soft, about 5 minutes. Pass
1 cup (200 g) pearl barley through a fine-mesh sieve. Add the gelatin sheets and mix
²⁄ cup (150 ml) extra-virgin olive oil until dissolved. Set aside.
³
7 oz (200 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast, chopped
2 small white onions, diced MAKE THE RICE CRACKER
4 tablespoons (60 g) butter
4¼ cups (1 liter) chicken stock Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3).
1 carrot, roughly chopped Thoroughly rinse the rice under cold running water and
8 white button mushrooms, quartered drain. Place the rice in a pot, add 1¼ cups (300 ml) cold water
2 tomatoes, quartered and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the curry
1 bouquet garni (1 sprig thyme, 1 bay leaf, 3 sprigs parsley) powder and stir. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until
all of the water is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a
GOAT MILK ROYALE blender and blend until smooth.
2 gelatin sheets Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread
31⁄ cups (800 ml) goat milk a thin layer of the rice puree on the lined baking sheet. Bake
³
3 garlic cloves until dry and crispy, about 18 minutes. Remove from the
3 sage leaves baking sheet and let cool.
2 saffron pistils
¼ teaspoon ground cumin MAKE THE GARNISH
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Set up a large bowl of ice and water. In a medium pot, bring
RICE CRACKER the vegetable stock to a boil over medium heat. Add the
½ cup (100 g) short-grain rice carrot and cook until firm-tender, about 2 minutes. Scoop
¹⁄8 teaspoon curry powder out the carrot and transfer to the ice bath to cool. Scoop out
and set aside. Repeat the process with the onion. Mix the
GARNISH carrot and the onion with the reserved whole grains. Dress
1²⁄ cups (400 ml) vegetable stock the mixture with a drizzle each of olive oil and balsamic
³
1 carrot, very finely diced vinegar and set aside.
1 medium white onion, very finely diced
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling TO SERVE
Balsamic vinegar, for drizzling
Ladle the soup into chilled bowls. Top with a good spoonful of
MAKE THE CREAM OF GRAINS the garnish, a shard of the puffed rice, and a dollop of the goat
milk royale. Drizzle with olive oil.
Soak the wheat berries (whole grain) and barley in lukewarm
water for 1 hour. Drain and rinse thoroughly with clean water. P. 119
In a medium pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat.
Add the chicken and sear until golden brown on both sides. RECIPE NOTES:
Reduce the heat to low, add the onions, and caramelize gently
until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the butter and,
once it is golden brown, add the soaked grains, stirring until
they abosorb the juice and the oil. Add the chicken stock,
carrot, mushrooms, tomatoes, and bouquet garni. Cover the
pot and cook over low heat until the grains can be crushed
easily, at least 1 hour. Measure out one-fourth of the mixture
for the garnish. Transfer the remaining mixture to a blender
and process until velvety in texture. Refrigerate to chill.

>>

26 Alain Ducasse
SPICED MEATBALLS WITH SMOKED EGGPLANT, MAKE THE MEATBALLS MAKE THE SMOKED EGGPLANT BREAD TART
TOASTED CHICKPEAS, AND EGGPLANT CONDIMENT WITH CARAMELIZED FRUITS
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas Mark 5).
Serves 8 Wrap the garlic bulbs in foil and bake until soft, about Bake the eggplant (aubergines) until the skin is lightly Serves 8
30 minutes. Remove the garlic and remove the cloves. Set burnt, about 15 minutes. Leave the oven on.
MEATBALLS aside. Leave the oven on. Halve the eggplants, scoop out the flesh, and set aside BREAD TART
2 garlic bulbs Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the nutmeg and ras el to drain in a colander. Roughly chop the eggplant skins. 4 egg whites (see Note)
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg hanout. Add the sliced bread and soak in the cream for 1 hour Measure out half and stir into the hummus. Pat the eggplant ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar
2½ teaspoons ras el hanout at room temperature. Squeeze the extra liquid and set aside. flesh dry with paper towels, transfer to a bowl, season with 1 cup (100 g) almond flour (ground almonds)
3½ oz (100 g) stale bread, sliced Run the meats, beef fat, and trimmings through a meat salt and pepper, and stir in the other half of the chopped generous 2 cups (500 ml) milk
1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy (whipping) cream grinder to finely grind. eggplant skins. Refrigerate until cold. 4 eggs
1 lb 12 oz (800 g) mixed meats (such as 14 oz [400 g] beef, In a medium frying pan, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the soy sauce and mix until incorporated. On a sheet 7 oz (200 g) nuts (such as pinenuts or hazelnuts), roughly
7 oz [200 g] chicken, and 7 oz [200 g] veal), cut into Add the mushrooms and cook until golden brown, about of foil, form the mixture into a log ¾ inch (2 cm) in diameter. chopped
chunks (see Note) 5 minutes. Set aside. Remove any air pockets by tightening at the ends. Bake until ²⁄ cup (150 ml) almond milk
³
7 oz (200 g) beef fat and beef trimmings In a large bowl, combine the ground (minced) meat, baked caramelized, about 30 minutes. When cool enough to handle, 10 oz (300 g) stale bread, sliced
5¼ teaspoons (25 g) butter garlic, parsley, radicchio, mushrooms, soaked bread, egg slice crosswise with a sharp knife into 1¼-inch (3 cm) por-
12 white button mushrooms, finely chopped yolks, ginger, a drizzle of olive oil, and black pepper, and mix tions. Set aside on a small tray. CARAMELIZED FRUITS
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped until combined. Correct seasoning with salt and add 4 table- 2¼ lb (1 kg) fruits (such as apple or strawberry), diced
1 medium head radicchio, finely chopped spoons of the dried breadcrumbs. Let rest for at least 2 hours MAKE THE CHICKPEAS scant ½ cup (90 g) granulated sugar
3 egg yolks (see Note) in the fridge before forming 1½-ounce (45 g) meatballs, using 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
6 oz (150 g) fresh ginger, finely chopped the remaining 3 tablespoons dried breadcrumbs to help bind In a medium pot, combine the chickpeas, their canning
Extra-virgin olive oil the meat so it does not stick to your hand. liquid, the olive oil, butter, and half of the ginger and cook MAKE THE BREAD TART
Freshly ground black pepper Coat a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil, arrange the over medium heat until the liquid is reduced by half, about
Salt balls on the sheet, and bake for 15 minutes. Pour the soy 5 minutes. Set aside. In a bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks.
½ cup (50 g) dried breadcrumbs sauce over the meatballs and bake until they form a golden In a large bowl, mix the sugar, almond flour (ground
2 tablespoons soy sauce brown crust, about 15 minutes longer. Set aside, keeping TO SERVE almonds), and milk. Add the eggs, nuts, and almond milk,
them warm. then fold in the egg whites. Soak the bread in this mixture
POPCORN Place 1 tablespoon of the hummus on each plate and top for 1 to 2 hours.
1 tablespoon corn oil MAKE THE POPCORN some smoked eggplant and 4 meatballs. Garnish with the Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Butter a
scant ¼ cup (50 g) popcorn kernels chickpeas, reduced juice, popcorn, and remaining ginger. 7¾ x 10¼-inch (20 x 26 cm) baking dish. Arrange the bread in
In a medium pot, melt the corn oil over high heat. Just as the the dish. Bake until a wooden pick or tip of a knife comes out
HUMMUS oil begins to smoke, add the popcorn and quickly cover with Note: Save the egg whites to make Meringues (pages 32 or dry, about 20 minutes.
generous 1¾ cups (300 g) drained canned chickpeas, a lid. Vigorously shake the pan while the popcorn begins to 387). If you don't have a meat grinder, use ground meat.
skins removed pop. Once the popping begins to subside, remove from the MAKE THE CARAMELIZED FRUITS
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil heat and continue shaking for about 1 minute. Once cool, RECIPE NOTES:
Salt remove the popcorn and discard any unpopped kernels. In a large pot, combine the fruit and sugar. Scrape in the
2½ tablespoons white miso Transfer to a food processor and blend into medium-size bits. vanilla seeds and add the pod. Simmer over low heat,
1 garlic clove Set aside. stirring regularly, until the fruit is soft like a compote,
scant ½ cup (100 ml) lemon juice about 15 minutes. Remove the pod and discard. Let cool.
3½ tablespoons yogurt MAKE THE HUMMUS
TO SERVE
SMOKED EGGPLANT In a food processor, blend the chickpeas with the olive oil
3 eggplants (aubergines) and a pinch of salt. Add the miso and garlic and blend until Place a piece of warm bread tart on the bottom of each plate.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper smooth. Add the lemon juice and yogurt and stir until com- Top with a spoonful of the caramelized fruits.
4 teaspoons soy sauce bined. Set aside.
Note: Save the egg yolks to make Zabaione (page 371) or
CHICKPEAS >> ice cream.
1¼ cups (200 g) canned chickpeas, drained (liquid
reserved) and skins removed RECIPE NOTES:
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
5 teaspoons (20 g) butter
1 tablespoon julienned fresh ginger

>>

28 Alain Ducasse Alain Ducasse 29


Joan Roca why I asked these chefs to come here Fortunately Joan and Anna didn’t
to cook. Not because I wanted or notice. The kids were really cute and ate
Just months earlier, I was hugging expected them to re-create the food everything. Joan and Anna had worked
Joan Roca in London before he and his from their restaurants, not because hard all morning and were very gracious
brothers jumped on stage to claim once we needed fancy meals with siphoned with them. The highlight came with
again the number one position on the foams and sous-vide, but because dessert when the kids were so excited
World’s 50 Best Restaurant list. El Cellar I knew that they possessed the tech- they screamed. Joan’s brother and
de Can Roca located in Girona, Spain, nique, knowledge, and creativity to pastry chef at El Celler de Can Roca,
is run by the three Roca brothers: Joan, see these ingredients from another Jordi Roca, had provided chocolates
Josep, and Jordi. Their passion and hard point of view. The transformation of and a recipe for chocolate ice cream.
work to the development of avant-garde the ingredients was of course physical, The kids may have been too young to
cuisine is recognized all over the world. but it was above all intellectual. Wor- understand that one of the best chefs
king in the kitchen of the Refettorio in the world was making their lunch
There were a lot of Catalan speakers in was like working on a math problem, that day, but it didn’t really mater
the kitchen that day. Joan, his wife, Anna, except that the chefs reasoned with because they were happily covered in
and his sous-chef, Nacho, were making ingredients and proved their theories chocolate ice cream. Later that evening
lunch for a group of kids in addition with recipes. The other difference was when our guests arrived, to my relief,
to dinner for the evening guests. They that these solutions were not mathe- there wasn’t an empty seat in the house.
seemed genuinely moved and excited matical; they were emotional. We served the same menu with the addi-
to be serving a group of schoolchildren tion of an exquisite salmorejo soup and
and decided to make something fun and The lunch project ran in tandem with I couldn’t stop laughing when I saw the
approachable. “The idea,” Joan said, “ the soup kitchen. From the beginning guests as covered in chocolate ice cream
is a quick exercise in creative thinking we invited different school programs as the kids had been earlier that day.
by using what’s available.” and summer camps around the city to
visit the space and eat meals made with
That morning what was available what would have otherwise been thrown
turned out to be a truck full of piadine. away. Lunch always came with a lesson
A piadina is a flat bread from Romagna, and lots of questions: We would show
a cross between a very flat pita and a them a crate of brown bananas and old
flour tortilla. Blue-and-white-striped bread, or the ingredients used that day,
shacks line the Romagnola coast, and would ask them: What is this? And
selling slight variations of piadina then we would tell them how we were
from Ravenna to Rimini. Thirty-one transforming ugly and old food into
miles (fifty kilometers) north or south nice and tasty food. “I think cooking is
of these towns, the shacks disappear in fact a very powerful tool,” Joan said.
but the tradition continues in the “Through the kitchen we can help, but
supermarket version (like the ones that we can also make people think about
arrived in the truck) to prepare at home. what and why they eat, where these
A piadina is cooked like a crêpe on a hot products come from.”
round cast-iron surface and then filled
with cheese, cold cuts, or vegetables— Lunch service meant about ninety
and occasionally even Nutella—and hungry kids racing into the Refettorio
folded over like a half-moon. It is street at twelve p.m. sharp, excited and full
food and something you don’t need a of energy. But on that day, when noon
fork and knife to eat. came around, there were no kids to
be seen. Cristina waited half an hour
Joan looked quizzically at the packaged and then got on the phone to see if
piadina and Cristina quickly explained the bus was lost. She found out that
how they were used customarily. He someone had made a terrible mistake
stood there for half a minute processing and the kids were not coming. She took
the information, and eventually decided me aside and whispered the bad news
to make wraps. in my ear. I started freaking out. I ran
over to the nursery school next door
The piadine were filled with a meat and and begged. I counted thirty little kids
vegetable stew, then rolled up and cut from ages three to six years old with six
at an angle and served with a creamy teachers. They would have to do or
sauce. These were the most elegant and this day would go down as the worst
radical piadina I had ever seen. Looking case of No Show in history.
at this recipe, it became very clear to me

30 July 28 Joan Roca 31


32 July 28 Joan Roca 33
SALMOREJO PARMIGIANO BÉCHAMEL
generous 1 cup (250 ml) milk
Serves 6 to 8 1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain) flour
5¼ teaspoons (25 g) butter
1 slice stale bread, diced, plus 3 oz (90 g) stale bread, ½ teaspoon salt
torn into pieces 3½ oz (100 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
2¼ lb (1 kg) tomatoes, quartered
2½ teaspoons sherry vinegar FOR SERVING
4½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more 8 piadinas or 9½-inch (24 cm) flour tortillas
for drizzling scant ½cup (40 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-
1 garlic clove Reggiano cheese
2 teaspoons salt Rosemary sprigs, for garnish
4 eggs
3½ oz (100 g) prosciutto, sliced paper thin MAKE THE BEEF
15 basil leaves, slivered
Set up a large bowl of ice and water. Bring a medium pot
Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3). Line a baking of water to a boil over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and
sheet with parchment paper. blanch for 10 seconds. Transfer to the ice bath. Peel and scoop
Place the diced bread on the prepared baking sheet the seeds into a bowl; reserve the seeds. Dice the tomato.
and bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Set the In a medium frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil
croutons aside. over medium heat. Add the garlic and onions and sauté until
In a food processor or blender, combine the tomatoes, golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
torn bread, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and salt and process until In the same pan, heat ½ tablespoon of the olive oil over
smooth, about 10 minutes. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve medium heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 1 minute,
into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate to chill. or until golden brown. Add to the garlic and onions.
In a medium pot, combine the eggs with water to cover. In the same pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over
Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for 11 minutes. medium heat. Add the zucchini (courgettes) and sauté until
Drain and when cool enough to handle, peel and finely chop. golden brown, about 3 minutes. Combine with the garlic,
To serve, ladle the chilled soup into bowls and top with the onions, and mushrooms.
prosciutto, chopped eggs, and croutons. Drizzle with olive oil In the same pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the
and garnish with basil leaves. oil over medium heat. Add the beef and sauté until browned,
about 8 minutes. Combine with the zucchini mixture and add
P. 167 the diced tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let
sit for 10 minutes, then drain the juices.

PIADINA WRAPS WITH BEEF MAKE THE PARMIGIANO BÉCHAMEL


AND PARMIGIANO BÉCHAMEL
In a medium pot, warm the milk over medium heat.
Serves 8 In a medium saucepan, toast the flour over low heat,
stirring with a spatula until light brown. Add the butter and
BEEF stir until melted. Add the warm milk, stir, and let simmer for
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) tomatoes 3 minutes. Add the salt. Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh
3½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil sieve into a clean pan. Stir in the Parmigiano and keep the
1 garlic clove, chopped béchamel warm.
¼ lb (120 g) white onions, chopped
8 oz (240 g) white button mushrooms, chopped TO SERVE
7 oz (200 g) zucchini (courgettes), finely diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper Mix the beef mixture with half the béchamel. Fill each
14 oz (400 g) ground (minced) beef (you can also use piadina with 2 spoonfuls of the mixture, then tightly wrap
turkey, chicken, or pork) and cut each in thirds. Place 3 pieces of the piadina wrap on
each dish. Garnish with rosemary and pass the remaining
>> béchamel and the grated Parmigiano at the table.

P. 168

RECIPE NOTES:

34 Joan Roca
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM WITH FRUIT SALAD MAKE THE CHOCOLATE CRISPS

Serves 8 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.


In a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water,
CHOCOLATE SAUCE stir the chocolate until melted. Place a spoonful of the melted
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon heavy (whipping) cream chocolate onto the parchment paper and gently flatten with
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar the back of the spoon to make circular decorations. Repeat
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder to make 8 disks. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and refrigerate
to set.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
7 oz (200 g) dark chocolate (60% cacao), chopped MAKE THE FRUIT SALAD
generous 2¾ cups (680 ml) milk
5 tablespoons heavy (whipping) cream In a medium pot, combine the sugar and 3 tablespoons water,
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder bring to a boil over medium heat, and cook until syrupy,
¹⁄ cup (40 g) whole-milk powder about 8 minutes. Set aside to cool.
³
4½ tablespoons granulated sugar In a medium bowl, combine the apples, pears, orange
juice, and sugar syrup and toss to combine. Cover and refrig-
CHOCOLATE CRISPS erate to chill.
3½ oz (100 g) dark chocolate (70% cacao), coarsely
chopped TO SERVE
1 tablespoon fine dried breadcrumbs, for sprinkling
Place a spoonful of the fruit salad in each bowl and top with
FRUIT SALAD the chocolate ice cream. Drizzle with the chocolate sauce and
4 tablespoons granulated sugar garnish with a chocolate crisp.
1 lb (500 g) apples, diced
1 lb (500 g) pears, diced RECIPE NOTES:
generous 2 cups (500 ml) orange juice

MAKE THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE

In a medium pot, combine the cream, sugar, and scant


²⁄ cup (140 ml) water and bring to boil over medium heat.
³
Cook for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and add
the cocoa. Use a hand blender to blend until smooth. Pass
through fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate
to chill.

MAKE THE CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof medium bowl.


In a medium pot, heat the milk, cream, cocoa, and
1²⁄ cups (390 ml) water and heat to 104°F (40°C). Add the
³
powdered milk and sugar and heat to 185°F (85°C).
Pour the hot milk mixture over the chopped chocolate,
stirring with a spatula. Use a hand blender to blend until
smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, cover,
and refrigerate for 4 hours.
Transfer to an ice-cream machine and process according
to the manufacturer’s instructions. (If you don’t have an
ice-cream machine, freeze the mixture until hard enough
to scoop.)

>>

36  RECIPE P. 166 Joan Roca 37


Mario Battali and I have known each
other for almost twenty years. He was
the one who encouraged me to bottle
my family’s small batch balsamic
vinegar and put it on the market. I did
Today this attitude has become even
more important for Mario at home and
in his restaurants. He speaks often and
adamantly about the problem of food
waste, “Waste is our single largest
It was a big menu and a satisfying one.
Mario had multiplied things before our
eyes: two Panetone became bread
pudding for an army, five chickens
ended up feeding over one hundred
Bread is Gold: Extraordinary Meals
with Ordinary Ingredients tackles the
exactly what he said and for many problem. Waste has to be managed like people, and there was pasta for second
years the Villa Manodori business was a business. We have what I call ‘free and third servings.
what kept Osteria Francescna afloat sources’. Oxygen, water, dirt, sun. But
financially. So I wouldn’t be here if it then we use stuff and we throw it away. Everyone was feeling good that night
weren’t for Mario. It’s the most heinous of crimes.” and no one wanted to leave. One of our
guests had brought a guitar. A couple
For those who know Mario, he is Mario offers solutions to the daily of weeks earlier he had mentioned that

timely subject of food waste. In 2015,


even more multiple than Bill Bruford’s waste that goes on in our home kitch- he was a musician and I told him to play
nickname “Multiple Mario.” He is a one ens “If I’m at home cooking with car- for us sometime. The volunteers took
of the most recognized and respect- rots, I’m not throwing away the greens. off their aprons, the kitchen team sat
ed chefs in the United State, a savvy I’ll transform them into a delicious down, and the musician began playing
businessman—he has opened many pesto or chimichurri. All of my restau- the blues. With the first chord the
restaurant over the past twenty-five rants and EATaly marketplaces have dinning room transformed back into a
years in New York, Los Angeles, Las a huge focus on sustainability, thanks theatre. He was singing in Senagaleese

Massimo Bottura founded Refettorio


Vegas, and abroad—a philanthropist, to our food safety and sustainability with a deep and resonating voice. His
and what many people do not know is director who is always finding a new music filled up the room. I was touched
that he single-handedly put the Italian and improved way to reduce waste.” by the poignancy of this moment. We
kitchen back on the table. He created had been sharing a space with many of
curiosity in the public to seek out good Mario had the menu down in minutes. these men and women and yet I really
Italian food, cook authentic recipes, He knew that there had to be pasta or didn’t know them. I wondered about
and travel to Italy. the southern Italians would complain. the secret talents our other guests din-

Ambrosiano, a soup kitchen


He knew that everyone ate chicken and ning here and quietly returning to the
Mario told a story to an audience a turkey, as opposed to pork or beef. And homeless shelter. When the music was
couple of years ago about growing he wanted to make lots of vegetables over Mario said, “Food brings people
up Italo-Americano in Seattle. He to create that kind of unforgetta- together. Sharing your failures and your
described walking up to his house on ble, Thanksgiving-style feast. There successes with someone leaves you
a cold night and the joy that overcame weren’t any turkeys to stuff, but there connected to the world. So if we can
him when he saw that the kitchen was ground turkey for meatballs and provide that here, that’s a dream.”

dedicated to repurposing ingredients


windows had fogged up; he knew that he made them really big and juicy, the
meant pasta boiling on the stovetop. I next best thing. And if he cut up the five
love this image. It is exactly the feeling chickens into small pieces, maybe no
that we wanted to create for our guests one would notice how few there were.
at the Refettorio: a place where there
was something to look forward to at When I asked him about the menu, he
the end of a long day. I had no doubt said, “Cristina told me that there are

from potato peels to day old bread.


when I invited Mario that he could fifteen people who don’t eat pork. So
prepare a meal that would be tasty and, I’m making vegetable pasta, basically
even more important, welcoming. a tomato sauce with carrots because
there weren’t any onions or garlic—plus
Mario describes growing up in the Batali bread crumbs and a bit of balsamic.
household as, “a No Waste zone.” “Some And I’m taking these potatoes and
of my best memories were the summer cooking them in the sauce. It’s going
afternoons that my brother, sister, and I to make a zuppa di patata and tomato

There, the world’s top chefs shared


hand-picked thousands of blackberries sauce which is a hybrid.” I thought it
from the trees that filled a cul-de-sac sounded like a pretty crazy plate of
near our home in Seattle. After spending pasta – tomato sauce, potatoes, pasta,
five hours gathering more berries than and bread crumbs but I love hybrid
we could count, we headed home to recipes. Zuppa di patata, adding pota-
make fifty-two pies and forty pints of jam toes to rice or pasta, is one of the best
with our mom. All of the pies were stored ways to give body to pasta or soups

their recipes and ideas for addressing


in the two giant freezers we had in our when the pantry is bare, and toasted
garage, and every Sunday, we pulled one breadcrumbs bring flavor and texture
out to enjoy after dinner.” to any dish.

44 Mario Batali Mario Batali 45

these often wasted ingredients. This


cookbook, which presents recipes
for three-course meals created by 45
of the world’s top chefs on site at the
Refettorio, will inspire home cooks
to reinvent humble ingredients in
their own kitchens, maximizing their
potential and minimizing waste.

Mario Batali Mario Batali 47

PENNE WITH RAW TOMATO SAUCE COQ AU VIN WITH TURKEY MEATBALLS 1 tablespoons sugar, or more to taste MAKE THE SWEET AND SOUR ONIONS
AND BAKED FENNEL Pinch of salt
Serves 6 2 tablespoons olive oil Bring 3 l of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the onions, lower to
Serves 6 to 8 Salt to taste a simmer, and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and peel
1 tablespoon kosher salt Pepper to taste the outer layer.
450 g penne COQ AU VIN Meanwhile, in a saucepan, warm the olive oil with the
450 g potatoes, cubed MAKE THE COQ AU VIN bay leaves over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for
500 g ripe tomatoes, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice 170 g pancetta, cut in ½ inch dice 5 minutes, until just browned. Add the vinegar and sugar,
Pinch of sugar 2 k whole chicken (cut into 8 pieces; wings and back Season the chicken with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the raise the heat slightly, and cook, stirring frequently, until the
Maldon or other flaky sea salt reserved for stock) flour to lightly coat. mixture begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Remove and
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Salt In a large Dutch oven, heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil over discard the bay leaves. Gently stir the onions to coat with the
Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving Freshly cracked black pepper medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until browned. syrupy mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste and let
Flour, for dusting Remove and set aside. Add the Chicken in batches and cool. Serve at room temperature.
Bring 3 liters of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil brown, starting skin side down. Remove and set aside. Add
pasta and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about 1⁄2 2 carrots the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and and mushrooms and TO SERVE
cup of the pasta water. 2 celery stalks, cut in small dice sauté until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Season with
Meanwhile, bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in a 5 cipollini onions, trimmed salt and pepper to taste. Add the tomato paste and cook, Serve the coq au vin with the turkey meatballs, braised fennel,
large pot. Add the potatoes and cook until just tender, about 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced stirring, until a dark rust in color. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons and sweet and sour onions.
7 minutes. 250 g cremini or button mushrooms, halved of flour to coat the vegetables and stir. Add the wine and
In a large pot, add the tomatoes and 1⁄4 cup of the 3 tablespoons tomato paste reduce for 1 minute. Add the chicken stock, bouquet garni,
reserved pasta water and bring to a simmer over medi- 1 cup chicken stock chicken, and pancetta and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium
um-high heat. Season with the sugar and salt to taste. Add 2 cups red wine, preferably Cabernet or Merlot heat and simmer, covered for 2 hours, or until the chicken is
the pasta and potatoes, and stir over medium heat until Bouquet garni (6 fresh thyme sprigs and 6 fresh parsley tender and falling apart.
well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta sprigs)
water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Add the oil and stir. MAKE THE TURKEY MEATBALLS
Serve immediately with grated Parmesan on the side. TURKEY MEATBALLS
In a medium bowl, soak the bread in water for 5 minutes.
10 thin slices day-old bread, cut into 1-inch cubes Remove and squeeze out the excess water.
2 pounds ground turkey In a large bowl, combine the turkey, prosciutto, sausage,
4 ounces prosciutto di Parma, cut into 1/8-inch dice bread, eggs, half the parsley, nutmeg, and 80 ml of the olive
8 ounces sweet Italian sausage, casings removed oil and gently mix with hands. Season with salt and pepper.
3 large eggs, lightly beaten Form 3-inch balls and place on a parchment paper lined
112 g freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese baking sheet. Coverwith plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1
50 g freshly grated Parmesan cheese hour to allow the flavors to blend.
80 g flat leaf parsley, finely chopped In a 10- to 12-inch heavy-bottomed sauté pan, heat the
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg remaining olive oil over high heat until almost smoking. Add
100 ml extra-virgin olive oil the meatballs and brown on all sides. Transfer to a paper
Salt towel lined plateto absorb any excess oil and drain off the
Freshly ground black pepper excess oil from the pan. Add the tomato sauce and wine to
300 g canned tomato sauce the pan and bring to a boil. Add the meatballs to the sauce,
120 ml cup dry white wine lower the heat to medium lowand simmer for 30 minutes.
Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with the remaining parsley, and
BAKED FENNEL serve with the pecorino and Parmesan.

1 bulb fennel, cut in 1-inch chunks MAKE THE BAKED FENNEL


3 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
60 ml dry vermouth
Preheat the oven to TK°F (160ºC). Butter a baking dish.
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the fennel and
blanch for until soft, 6 minutes. Immediately transfer to an
ice bath and let cool. Drain and season with salt and pepper.
Binding: Hardback
Format: 290 x 250 mm (11 3/8 x 9 7/8 inches)
100 g bread crumbs In a medium sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium
60 g butter, diced heat. Add the garlic and sauté until soft.
Arrange the fennel in the prepared baking dish. Top
SWEET AND SOUR ONIONS with the sautéed garlic, vermouth, butter, and salt and
pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and bake
20 small red or white onions, root and stem trimmed
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove and let cool
for 10 minutes.
Extent: 424 pp
48 Mario Batali Mario Batali 49

Number of images: 200 col.


Word Count: 100,000
ALMOND JOY BREAD PUDDING ALLA MILANO
WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM

Serves 10
ISBN: 978 0 7148 7536 1
ALMOND JOY BREAD PUDDING

1 panettone, cut into 2-inch cubes (about 7 to 8 cups)


300 g sugar

Phaidon Press Limited


2 teaspoons salt
6 eggs
1 liter milk
500 ml heavy cream
300 g sliced almonds
600 g chocolate, chopped, or chocolate chips
200 g sweetened shredded coconut 

VANILLA ICE CREAM


Regent’s Wharf
400 g heavy cream
100 gr milk
1 vanilla bean, cut and scraped
40 g sugar
All Saints Street
London N1 9PA
2 eggs

MAKE THE ALMOND JOY BREAD PUDDING

Preheat to oven to TK°F (350°F). Line a baking sheet with parch-


ment paper. Grease a 9 x 8-inch (TK x TK cm) pan.
Place the panettone on the prepared baking sheet and
toast in the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden brown.
Remove and let cool. Transfer to the prepared pan.

Phaidon Press Inc.


In a large bowl, combine the eggs, sugar, and salt and
whisk. Add the milk and heavy cream and whisk. Pour over
the toasted bread and let soak for 60 minutes, turning occa-
sionally to absorb, until rehydrated. Sprinkle with the coco-
nut and almonds and bake for 45 minutes, or until golden

65 Bleecker Street
brown and slightly wobbly in the center. Remove and let cool.
Meanwhile, bring a small pot of water to a simmer over
medium heat. Add the chocolate to a heat resistant bowl and
place over the pot. Melt the chocolate, stirring frequently so
that it does not burn. Set aside.

MAKE THE VANILLA ICE CREAM

In a medium pot, warm the milk and heavy cream with the vanilla
New York, NY 10012
bean and seeds over medium heat.
In medium bowl, add the eggs and whisk until creamy.
Slowly add ¼ of the milk mixture, stirring constantly. Transfer
to the pot and bring to 80ºC over low heat. Cook for 10 min-
utes. Remove and let cool. Transfer to an ice cream machine

© 2017 Phaidon Press Limited


and process according the manufacturer’s instructions.
Alternatively, freeze the mixture for 5 hours.

TO SERVE

Place a slice of the bread pudding in the center of each bowl.


Top with a scoop of the vanilla ice cream and drizzle with the
melted chocolate.

50 Mario Batali

phaidon.com

39
Chefs don’t waste food. BREAD IS GOLD reveals the secrets of more than 50 of the world's
best chefs through easy and inspiring recipes for home cooks. Make the most of everyday
ingredients to create delicious dishes in your own kitchen with recipes from top culinary
talents, all of whom took part in legendary Italian chef Massimo Bottura’s groundbreaking
soup kitchen project Refettorio Ambrosiano. BREAD IS GOLD will change the way you think
about—and use—food. Make extraordinary meals with ordinary ingredients—and make
a difference.

WITH MENUS BY:

DANIEL HUMM ANDREAS CAMINADA


MASSIMO BOTTURA FERRAN & ALBERT ADRIÀ
Mauro C olag re co PETTER NILSSON
R ENÉ RE D Z E P I CARLO CRACCO
Yoshihiro Narisawa BASQUE CULINARY CENTER
ENRICO & ROBERTO CEREA & JUAN MARI ARZAK
YANNICK ALLÉNO MICHEL TROISGROS
GASTÓN ACURIO MSA CULIN ARY ART S ACADE MY
ANDREA BERTON & DAVIDE OLDANI OF ISTAN BUL
SARA PAPA & ALBERTO CALAMANDREI ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ
ANTONIO, ALBERTO & GIOVANNI SANTINI JESSICA MURPHY
UGO ALCIATI Manuel & Christian Costardi
MITSUHARU TSUMURA ALEX ATAL A
ALAIN DUCASSE ALEX ATALA, MATT ORLANDO, NIKO
VIVIANA VARESE ROMITO & MASSIMO BOTTURA
LUCA FANTIN MATT ORLANDO
DANIEL PATTERSON GEORGE BROWN CANADA COOKING SCHOOL
MARK MORIARTY VIRGILIO MARTÍNEZ
GASTROMOTIVA Jeremy Charles & John Winter Russell
Joan Roca MARIO BATALI
ALMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF ITALIAN CUISINE ANA ROS
ANTONIA KLUGMANN MORENO CEDRONI
& FABRIZIO MANTOVANI MAURO ULIASSI
MATIAS PERDOMO, ENRIQUE OLVERA, GENNARO ESPOSITO
CARLOS GARCÍA & RODOLFO GUZMÀN CARLES MAMPEL, ANTONIO
CRISTINA BOWERMAN BACHOUR & ORIOL BALAGUER
Alessandro Negrini & Fabio Pissani PINO CUTTAIA
G I US EPPE PA LM IE R I ALICE DELCOURT

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