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Buchs
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
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Optimizing Formulating
Preservative Making Emotional HD
Design Cosmetic Makeup
Connections
RNA to Activate
Epigenetic
Skin Care
CT1803_Cover_fcx.indd 1 2/16/18 11:43 AM
otanical
®
Extracts
Are What We Do!
Bio-Botanica Inc.
R TM
8 [podcast] Microbiome
DIGITAL
Interactions, Part I
with G. Hillebrand, Ph.D., and M. Kendall
80 Ad Index
32
22
Market Intelligence
9 Technology Launches
14 Consumer Perspective:
The ‘Skin’ Crowd
Emerging Trends for Technology in Skin Care
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
Research
22 A New Code for Skin Care, Part III:
RNA Activation—The Flipside to RNA Interference
52
by P. Lawrence, Ph.D., and J. Ceccoli
22 Author Commentary:
DIGITAL
Epigenetics in Cosmetics
with P. Lawrence, Ph.D.
Testing
32 Intersecting the Senses
Synesthesia to Connect Cosmetics with Emotion
by M. Guzman Alonso and J. Jiménez
ISELUX
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EDITORIAL
64
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
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Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
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Partner & President Janet Ludwig
32 Author Commentary: Controller Linda Getner
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Synesthesia in Cosmetics Director of Events Maria Prior
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Executive Assistant Maria Romero
64 From the Vault: Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
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Formaldehyde-donor Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.
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Consumers demand purity in products and presentation: TRANSPARENCY is the eye-catcher of pure care.
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A heat-protection mist allows high-temperature styling and completes the hair care line.
Breakthrough Beauty
What do you consider to be a groundbreaking trend in beauty? Blue light protection, the
microbiome and anti-pollution may be on your hot list; however, customizable products are
also a clear winner, as a recent NPD blog post1 explains. Driving the need for bespoke beauty,
of course, is the consumer.
The blog continues with three additional drivers for 2018: products that align with
consumer values, i.e., the environment, community, animal rights, etc.; luxury products as the
new norm, including personalized experiences; and experiential retail, which likely includes
some form of digital interaction. One thing these drivers have in common is they have a
direct, emotional impact on consumers.
The idea of appealing to consumer emotions is not novel. However, serious breakthroughs
are happening in the ways researchers can tap into and leverage emotional responses via
beauty products. In fact, according to MarketsandMarkets, the emotion detection and
recognition market is expected to grow from US $6.72 billion in 2016 to $36.07 billion by
2021—an impressive CAGR of 39.9%.2
For cosmetic developers, this means new ways of digging deeply into what their products
ultimately aim to achieve: emotional effects on consumers. This could mean
synergistic sensory experiences, personalized levels of efficacy or
even the minimization of undesired ingredients.
This issue encompasses these breakthrough notions in some of the
latest, most advanced thinking in cosmetic product development. It
also aims to engage your senses—if you’re reading this in print, check
out the digital edition for interactive extras including podcasts and a
unique audio experience on Page 36. We hope we’ve appealed to your
scientific excitement.
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. C&T: Can gut microbes affect skin health and
Johnson & Johnson
appearance?
Ron Sharpe
Amway
GH: I think, in general, we know quite a bit about
the microbiome composition. Less is known about
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D. the role the microbiome plays in skin health. We
Consultant know it plays a role in certain diseases such as atopic
dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea and acne. Our interest
David C. Steinberg was more in healthy skin.
Steinberg & Associates
We launched a massive study in 2015
Peter Tsolis where we measured the skin condition of
The Estée Lauder Companies almost 500 men and women, ages 9–78, Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D.
looking at all kinds of different attributes. Technology Strategist,
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson
We discovered some interesting things Amway Beauty
about the microbiome and appearance-
Claudie Willemin related features. For example, two
L’Oréal Corynebacterium were identified that were
co-exclusive; i.e., only one was
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.
Coty, Inc. present before the age of ~40, Want More?
after which only the other was For more insight from Greg Hillebrand or others,
present. In addition, the “older” log onto www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Corynebacterium was related to
blotchy, red skin.
Mibelle Biochemistry combats hormonally induced skin aging LipoTrue created peptide blend Anargy (proposed INCI:
with monk’s pepper berries. Densorphin (INCI: Maltodextrin Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-2 (and) Nicotiana
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Vitex Agnus-Castus Fruit Extract), Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-9 (and)
stimulates the activities of β-endorphin—the body’s own Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-86),
happy molecule—and DHEA, the precursor for female to help nourish, protect and detoxify hair roots.
estrogen and male testosterone. Additionally, the active helps to reactivate the hair growth
www.mibellebiochemistry.com cycle for redensifying and strengthening hair benefits.
www.lipotrue.com
1. Ocea Defence
1
Biosil Technologies, Inc.
www.biosiltech.com
Ocea Defence (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Laminaria
Ochroleuca Extract (and) Tocopherol) is an oily extract of Laminaria
ochroleuca extract in caprylic/capric triglycerides and supplemented
with tocopherols. This marine solution for stimulating and protecting
skin immunity improves cutaneous comfort of fragile and vulnerable
skin, preventing premature aging and reducing UV-induced erythema.
2. SensAmone P5
Mibelle Group Biochemistry
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
SensAmone P5 (INCI: Pentapeptide-59 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
(and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Phenethyl Alcohol
2 3
(and) Ethyl Hexylglycerin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water (aqua))
is a biomimetic peptide based on a component of sea anemone
venom, designed to inhibit the pain receptor present in skin. This
receptor is overreactive in sensitive skin, leading to itching and
stinging. SensAmone P5 inhibits pain receptor activation and reduces
sensitivity for more resistant skin.
3. ChiaProtect
MMP, Inc.
www.mmpinc.com
ChiaProtect (INCI: Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil) is a cold pressured extra
virgin botanical oil extracted from Salvia hispanica seeds, loaded
with high levels of phyto-nutrients, antioxidants and vitamins. Its
properties include: maintaining a calming and anti-redness effect,
reducing inflammation, providing hydration, restoring the skin barrier
and having anti-aging due to its anti-free radical capacity.
4
4. Azeclair
Corum Inc.
www.corum.com.tw
Azeclair (INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) is an effective azelaic
acid derivative that imparts a sebum normalizing effect and provides
inflammatory protection against pollutants. Recent studies show
this ingredient can inhibit various inflammatory factors such as
interleukin-8 and matrix metalloproteinase or MMP-1, which are
induced by urban dust PM2.5 and diesel particulate matter. Azeclair
also acts as an oil control agent to normalize sebum production and
brighten the skin.
5 6. Izayoi
Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd.
www.ichimaru.co.jp/english
Izayoi (INCI: Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract) is a sun care active that
acts via a newly identified inflammation pathway—keratinocytes
damaged by UVB release denatured U1RNA—which is one damage-
associated molecular pattern (DAMP). The surrounding non-damaged
keratinocytes recognize such DAMPs and respond by initiating
inflammatory reactions leading to signs of skin aging, such as
wrinkles, age spots or pigmentation. Izayoi inhibits the inflammation
cytokines induced by DAMPs.
7. Agascalm
Provital Group
www.provitalgroup.com
6
Agascalm (INCI: Propanediol (and) Glycerin (and) Agastache Mexicana
Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) neutralizes negative effects caused by
psychological stress such as skin inflammation and redness. It is a
natural active from the plant Agastache mexicana traditionally used
against “frightful and shocking” situations. An in vivo study of the
7
ingredient showed a clear improvement in skin tone and radiance, in
addition to reduced skin redness.
8. Hyalurosmooth
BASF
8 www.basf.com
Hyalurosmooth (INCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide) helps
to re-energize stressed skin. This ingredient is a botanical alternative
to hyaluronic acid that provides skin rejuvenation properties. In vivo,
it shows improvement in skin radiance and long-lasting hydration
while in vitro, it moderates the stress mediator cortisol and stimulates
collagen and hyaluronic acid.
9. Cropure Grapeseed
Croda Inc.
9
www.crodapersonalcare.com
Cropure Grapeseed (INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil) enhances
the stability and esthetics of formulations with a nutrient-packed
natural oil obtained from grape seeds through Croda’s proprietary
refining technology for absolute purity. This ingredient features
oxidation stability and is used in a range of personal care products
including cleansers, body care, conditioners and sun protection.
11. Sirtalice
Lipotrue SL
10 11
www.lipotrue.com
Sirtalice (INCI: Bacillus Ferment) is an active marine ingredient
derived via biotechnology. It helps to recharge skin energy and
induce skin protein synthesis, improving strength and contraction.
The ingredient stimulates the synthesis of proteins involved in
mitochondrial respiration and energy production. It also induces key
proteins for focal adhesions and cell interactions.
KEY POINTS
• As skin care becomes more scientific,
consumers are making it a point to
better understand their products.
Consumer Connection
C
Virtual Apps Educate and Sell
onsumers are finding importance in their
skin care routines, leading them to pay more
attention to the science behind their products.
Certain brands and technologies that customize
consumer experiences are fostering not only
consumer trust, but their business as well.
English rose-petal complexion, a peach glow or image used to diagnose and recommend skin care
the perfectly even, plump, glossy and reflective routines via a smart phone. The apps serve as a
“glass” surface desired in Asia. tool to educate consumers but primarily drive
Raconteur1 recently reported on a growing revenue for the retailer or brand. If their bench-
new breed of these consumers that are savvy mark libraries are large and relevant, brands can
and informed by social media and the Internet. shift the average audience’s understanding of their
They are demanding more regarding product own skin; however, such benchmarks can also
efficacy and the purchasing experience, and are trigger insecurities and highlight flaws of which
listening to hand-picked influencers. Even so, the consumer was originally unaware.
skin type and skin concern diagnoses are still Also, recommendations are based on the claims
inadequate. supplied by the product manufacturer, whether
Enter: virtual try-on apps. These self-quan- substantiated or not, and do not take product com-
tifying apps have stepped in to capture a facial binations into consideration. Generally, the aim
of such apps is simple—to maximize consumer cea and sun damage, and to discuss the benefits
product spend. of different molecular weights of hyaluronic
acid, efficacy of actives in different concentra-
Science in Demand tions, and their safe combinations. As such,
Until recently, consumers were interested shifts in advertising reflect the new interest in
in the benefits—not the minutiae—of active active ingredients.
ingredients. However, the new group of “skin-
tellectuals” includes shrewd, intelligent and Access to Experts
affluent women who take their skin seriously. Many skin care products are now sold
They approach skin care in the same way they online; brands to benefit from the afore-
think about diet and exercise, and look for mentioned following of savvy consumers
solutions to a problem—beyond the hype of are science-based, doctor-led brands, such
any brand. These consumers are seeking active as Dr. Barbara Sturm, Dr. Dennis Gross,
ingredients at concentrations that deliver true 111SKIN, Zelens, Murad, SkinCeuticals, etc.
efficacy. According to the journalists and beauty In an overcrowded market with high levels
bloggers these women follow on Instagram of distrust, the selling point is credibility and
and YouTube, they are not interested in packag- human interaction.
ing or fantasy-like advertisements. Reportedly, customers still trust the name
The rise of this specific market segment has and face of a doctor for their advanced skin
allowed for a change in communication that care needs. The founders of these brands are
focuses on scientific detail. Members of this influencers, creators and, first and foremost,
group do their research prior to approaching clinicians. Their customers are also their
the counter, and want their retail experience to patients—working with them daily in the clinics
encourage hands-on engagement with the prod- enables them to understand skin care concerns
ucts including play, testing, experimentation well and use the direct consumer insight and
and staff expertise. They use their familiarity expertise to develop credible, efficacious prod-
with medical skin disease terminology to look ucts. Additionally, these founders are present
for solutions to barrier dysfunction, acne, rosa- on social media, guaranteeing a conversation
Sustainable Shea
Performance without compromise
Today’s consumers want innovative, high-performance products created with natural, sustainable and ethically
sourced ingredients. When choosing AAK’s technologically advanced shea-based emollients for your formulations, you
do more than just excel at meeting these challenges. You also make a positive difference to the social, environmental
and economic development of the communities that depend on shea for their livelihood.
Shea is renowned for its anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and skin barrier strengthening properties and has come a long way
from a simple butter. AAK leads the way in developing shea-based ingredients for the beauty industry and opening up new
opportunities for both the cosmetic formulator and the estimated 16 million women in West Africa who rely on shea for an
income. Increasing demand from cosmetic manufacturers is helping to build a bigger, better shea industry and halt rural-urban
migration. Generating more earnings to empower the shea-collecting women, improving local livelihoods and securing
supplies for the future. A win-win situation all round.
Creating value and sustainability through direct sourcing. Streamlined supply chains give local women more negotiating
power, a higher income and greater independence. The AAK direct sourcing programme was introduced in Burkina Faso in
2009 and has recently been extended to Ghana. Based on fair trade principles, including access to pre-financing, education
and logistical support, the programme involves over 115,000 women and continues to grow.
Working with AAK has helped me become independent. We as women are stronger now and work together for the
community.” Kamboule Kibekoun
Sustainability is about empowering people, enabling prosperity and protecting the planet.
Our commitment to conserving energy and natural resources extends across the supply chain. Our Swedish manufacturing site
has been awarded an EcoVadis Gold ranking and initiatives include establishing Life Cycle Assessments to ensure that total
C02 emissions do not exceed the carbon absorbing capacity of the trees in Africa. We believe that by advancing innovations
in cosmetic formulations, changing perceptions of what is possible with shea technology and increasing demand from
consumers, we can make natural beauty a force for good.
Contact:
aakpersonalcare.com
lipid@aak.com
At AAK we have pioneered new techniques to optimise the physical and sen-
sory characteristics of shea and allow increased functional use across the full
spectrum of cosmetic applications. From solid and semi-solid forms offering
high temperature stability, low odour and improved colour, to liquid versions
that eliminate crystallisation and enable clear, sprayable formulations.
Immersive Experiences
Nowadays, wellness is a marker of luxury and
lifestyle choices, and the digital tide is even shift-
ing this culture. Web-based platforms such as
Well+Good2—with 8 million unique monthly visitors,
1.2 million followers on social media, and 800,000
email subscribers—have come to appreciate that
young, affluent women prefer a curated approach to
their experiences. For example, younger spa con-
sumers (under 35) want an expert experience during
vacation, not just a luxury five-star resort spa. In
fact, Well + Good reported that clientele are follow-
ing their favorite fitness and well-being instructors
to one-off retreats instead of booking into famous
spas.3 In response, retreats have been developed that
limit the number of attendees to create intimate,
immersive experiences.
While the Internet has essentially replaced travel
magazines, and luxury spa photography no longer
dominates the social media conversation, digital
images of wellness are unable to supersede real-life
experiences. Indeed, online wellness interpretations
tend to lack the connections consumers make with
like-minded and passionate people. Thus, whilst
there is growing popularity in mass wellness, spa
and fitness to offset the stresses of modern society,
the expertise and experience of a clinician will
remain valued within exclusive and niche market
segments; the appreciation of a doctor as a “walking
placebo” or the rapport between patient and thera-
pist cannot be underestimated.
In conclusion, technology such as smart phones
can benefit our decision-making process and
enhance our product experiences but not replace
them. For instance, apps can offer little more than
“coaching”—e.g., they cannot recommend products
to prevent or diagnose a skin condition—otherwise
they cross a regulatory boundary warranting an
expert’s diagnosis. They may also offer reassurance,
such as in cases of acne, rosacea and eczema, but
they must developed responsibly, so as not to cause
unnecessary alarm, and based on scientific data.
References
All web sites accessed on Jan. 30, 2018.
1. raconteur.net/lifestyle/skincare-is-now-a-serious-business
2. wellandgood.com/
3. fastcompany.com/40504343/
travelers-are-abandoning-spas-to-join-fitfluencer-retreats
feel visible The skin feel of cosmetic formulations is one of the main factors
influencing whether or not consumers will buy a product. Evonik
enables the development of skin care products with targeted sensory
properties. With the new interactive tool “Sensory Kaleidoscope”,
our clients can select their preferred emulsifiers from our portfolio.
This helps them turn current sensory trends directly into new prod
ucts, making the process simpler, more objective, and interactive.
evonik.com/personal-care
KEY POINTS
• As the scientific knowledge of RNAi has
expanded, a completely opposite process of
RNA activation (RNAa) has been discovered.
A New Code
Part III: RNA Activation—
The Flipside to RNA Interference
Paul Lawrence, Ph.D., and Joseph Ceccoli
Biocogent, LLC, Stony Brook, NY
Editor’s note: Per the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, cosmetics are articles intended to beautify appearance and should not alter the structure or function of the
human body; those that do are considered drugs. The concepts presented here blur this line, although they reflect major advances in recent skin care science.
Reproduction in English or any other language of
22This third and final installment in our three-part series describes RNA activation—the reverse of RNA interference (RNAi). Part I explored the general utility of RNAi
| www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
technologies; technologies
Part II briefly reviewed the delivery of RNAi
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
into skin. Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
© 2018 Allured Business Media.
opposite process of RNA activation (RNAa) the miRISC complex in the cell cytoplasm (see
also has been discovered. Here, small ncRNAs Figure 1). These small ncRNAs originate from
can promote gene expression rather than exogenous (saRNA/agRNA) or endogenous
ablating it, thus providing another approach (siRNA/miRNA) sources.
to treating skin conditions with nucleic The “passenger strand” dissociates from
acid-based therapeutics.6–8 the complex and is discarded, while the “guide
strand” stays complexed with Ago2. The guide
RNAa Mechanisms strand/Ago2-miRISC complex before entering
One of the first reports of small ncRNAs that the nucleus via Importin 8 (IPO8),15 which then
included what appeared to be the activation proceeds to interact with the genomic DNA
or augmentation of gene expression was in through one of two possible mechanisms, or
2006, where Li et al. described small double- interacts with mRNA transcripts.
stranded RNA molecules that coordinated with With respect to genomic DNA, the guide
the Argonaute 2 (Ago2) protein to induce gene strand RNA will anneal directly to comple-
activation.9, 10 Multiple studies found that small mentary sequences in the promoters of specific
artificial RNAs (saRNAs) or small anti-genome genes or anneal to a complementary nascent
RNAs (agRNAs) were able to positively affect RNA strand already bound to a promoter
the expression of multiple genes, including sequence (see Figure 2). Several studies
but not limited to: E-cadherin, p21, OCT4 and have suggested that the preferred promoter
KLF4.9, 11–13 The contrasting features of RNAi sequences revolve around the core promoter
versus RNAa were concisely outlined in a area of genes known as the TATA box, though
review article, which described the two pro- others have shown that sequences outside of
cesses as the “yin and yang of the RNAome.”8 the TATA box, but still proximal to the promoter
Interestingly, the kinetics of RNAi versus region, can also serve as target sites.16
RNAa are distinct; relatively speaking, RNAi The annealing of the RNA/Ago2 complex
is rapid and short-lived whereas RNAa takes has been proposed to epigenetically stimulate
longer to induce but has prolonged effects.14 In gene expression with the recruitment of various
vast contrast with RNAi, small double-stranded chromatin remodeling factors (see Figure 3),
RNA molecules of approximately 22 base pairs though much of the process is still unknown
in length interact with the Ago2 component of and requires further research. The epigenetic
component of the RNAa process likely accounts
for the delayed onset and prolonged gene
expression, and appears to be specific to the
target genes, as research groups have impli-
The RNA-based therapeutics market is
cated histone acetylation levels for increased
projected to reach $1.2 billion by 2020,
gene expression for some genes, and histone
expanding at a CAGR of 28.4% from 2014.
methylation for others.17, 18
A recent report has proposed that once in
the nucleus and bound to a particular promoter
Source: Allied Market Research site, RNA/Ago2 catalyzes the assembly of a
RNA-induced transcriptional activation (RITA)
complex consisting of at least RNA/Ago2, RNA
A. RNA/Ago2 bind directly to the promoter region of genomic DNA and recruit RNA polymerase II and other factors to
stimulate transcription.
B. RNA/Ago2 bind to an RNA transcript tethered to genomic DNA to recruit RNA polymerase II and other transcription
stimulatory factors.
C. RNA/Ago2 bind the 5' UTR of a messenger RNA to enhance translation.
D. RNA/Ago2 bind the 3' UTR of a messenger RNA to enhance translation.
Ago2 = Argonaute 2; RNA Pol II = RNA polymerase II; UTR = untranslated region; TSS = transcription start site
Figure 2. Mechanisms by which nuclear small RNA associated RISC complexes can
promote gene expression
HDAC = histone de-acetylase; PRMT = protein methyl transferase; sRNA = small RNA; Ago2 = Argonaute 2; RNA Pol II = RNA
polymerase II
RNAs are becoming the key to unlocking new classes of nucleic acid-based treatments for the skin.
promoter sequence of the tyrosinase gene for 4. X Yi et al, MITF-siRNA formulation is a safe and effective
therapy for human melasma, Mol Ther 19 362-371 (2011)
increased expression could be used as a tanning
5. P Zhang, J Chen, T Li and YY Zhu, Use of small RNA as
agent. Another example is collagen, a protein anti-aging cosmeceuticals, J Cosmet Sci 64 455-468
that diminishes with age and contributes to the (2013)
maintenance of taut, healthy skin; an saRNA 6. D Guo, L Barry, SS Lin, V Huang and LC Li, RNAa in action:
directed to the collagen promoter intended for From the exception to the norm, RNA Biol 11 1221-1225
(2014)
augmented gene expression would have definite
7. V Huang et al, RNAa is conserved in mammalian cells,
cosmetic applications. PLoS One 5 e8848 (2010)
Moreover, RNAa exhibits extremely potent 8. PN Pushparaj, JJ Aarthi, SD Kumar and J Manikandan,
and long-lasting effects, likely due to its induc- RNAi and RNAa—The the yin and yang of RNAome,
tion of epigenetic modifications of targeted Bioinformation 2 235-237 (2008)
genes. Once the specific epigenetic modifica- 9. LC Li et al, Small dsRNAs induce transcriptional activation
in human cells, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 103 17337-17342
tions have been elucidated and the mechanisms (2006)
by which RNAa stimulates them, additional 10. K Garber, Genetics. Small RNAs reveal an activating side,
routes of treatment for skin conditions will Science 314 741-742 (2006)
likely be developed. In conclusion, the “yin and 11. C Wang, Q Ge, Z Chen, J Hu, F Li and Z Ye, Promoter-
yang” of small non-coding RNAs are becoming associated endogenous and exogenous small RNAs
suppress human bladder cancer cell metastasis by
the key to unlocking new classes of nucleic activating p21 (CIP1/WAF1) expression, Tumour Biol 37
acid-based treatments for the skin. 6589-6598 (2016)
® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries
©2017, Ashland PHC18-108
12. J Wang et al, Identification of small activating RNAs that 20. RF Place, LC Li, D Pookot, EJ Noonan and R Dahiya,
enhance endogenous OCT4 expression in human mesen- MicroRNA-373 induces expression of genes with comple-
chymal stem cells, Stem Cells Dev 24 345-353 (2015) mentary promoter sequences, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 105
13. J Wang et al, Inducing gene expression by targeting 1608-1613 (2008)
promoter sequences using small activating RNAs, J Biol 21. CL Jopling, M Yi, AM Lancaster, SM Lemon and P Sarnow,
Methods 2 (2015) Modulation of hepatitis C virus RNA abundance by a liver-
14. V Portnoy, V Huang, RF Place and LC Li, Small RNA and specific MicroRNA, Science 309 1577-1581 (2005)
transcriptional upregulation, Wiley Interdiscip Rev RNA 2 22. UA Orom, FC Nielsen and AH Lund, MicroRNA-10a binds
748-760 (2011) the 5'UTR of ribosomal protein mRNAs and enhances their
15. Y Wei, L Li, D Wang, CY Zhang and K Zen, Importin 8 translation, Mol Cell 30 460-471 (2008)
regulates the transport of mature microRNAs into the cell 23. HL Janssen, S Kauppinen and MR Hodges, HCV infection
nucleus, J Biol Chem 289 10270-10275 (2014) and miravirsen, N Engl J Med 369 878 (2013)
16. Y Zhang et al, Cellular microRNAs up-regulate transcription 24. HL Janssen et al, Treatment of HCV infection by targeting
via interaction with promoter TATA-box motifs, RNA 20 microRNA, N Engl J Med 368 1685-1694 (2013)
1878-1889 (2014) 25. Z Chen, RF Place, ZJ Jia, D Pookot, R Dahiya and LC Li,
17. BA Janowski, ST Younger, DB Hardy, R Ram, KE Huffman Antitumor effect of dsRNA-induced p21(WAF1/CIP1) gene
and DR Corey, Activating gene expression in mammalian activation in human bladder cancer cells, Mol Cancer Ther 7
cells with promoter-targeted duplex RNAs, Nat Chem Biol 3 698-703 (2008)
166-173 (2007) 26. J Wei et al, p21WAF1/CIP1 gene transcriptional activation
18. K Yang et al, Promoter-targeted double-stranded small exerts cell growth inhibition and enhances chemosensitivity
RNAs activate PAWR gene expression in human cancer to cisplatin in lung carcinoma cell, BMC Cancer 10 632
cells, Int J Biochem Cell Biol 45 1338-1346 (2013) (2010)
19. V Portnoy et al, saRNA-guided Ago2 targets the RITA 27. K Yang et al, Up-regulation of p21WAF1/Cip1 by saRNA
complex to promoters to stimulate transcription, Cell Res 26 induces G1-phase arrest and apoptosis in T24 human blad-
320-335 (2016) der cancer cells, Cancer Lett 265 206-214 (2008)
Skin troubles
Reduced moisture content of skin
Lowered ability to recover the
skin s barrier function
318-1, Asagi, Motosu-shi, Gifu 501-0475 JAPAN Phone: +81(0) 58 320-1032 FAX: +81(0) 58 320-1039
e-Mail : info@ichimaru.co.jp Official Website : www.ichimaru.co.jp/english
KEY POINTS
• Synesthesia presents a great opportunity for
innovative concepts in the cosmetics field.
Intersecting
the Senses Synesthesia to Connect
Cosmetics with Emotion
For example:
• Soft as a summer whistle;
• And when he came out of the water and approached,
I felt the warmth of his eyes, the scent of his words,
the saltiness of his caresses, the sound of her beauty,
the brightness of his embrace...
• In suspended sound colors, eyes hear, ears look…
• Francisco de Quevedo's: I listen to the dead with the
eyes; and
• Joan Manuel Serrat's: Your name tastes like grass.
Synesthetic experiences demonstrate three ing memory” awakenings smell kit, designed
primary characteristics: they are provoked by for Alzheimer’s and dementia patients to help
a stimulus, they are conscious perceptions and them practice their memory.8 And also debuting
they are automatic.2 They are an important last year was the olfactory clock designed by
trend emerging in sectors such as food, bever- Patrick Palcic using perfume to tell time.9
ages and of course, cosmetics. Some published studies of synesthesia
For example, in 2016, studies were pub- have been based on Charles Spence's theory
lished showing how a given choice for music of multisensory integration (see Figure 1).10
can improve the taste of meals.3 In Europe, This states that when sensory stimuli are mixed
the Hotel Café Royal opened its Green Bar, properly, there is an effect of super-additivity,
in which the cocktails served are inspired by whereby the final stimulus is perceived syner-
and taste like some of the most representative gistically via the mammalian superior colliculus
notes of fine perfumes.4 Another bar, Bart’s, brain structure—i.e., the source of multisensory
recently opened in London featuring a “mood cells, in comparison with how stimuli are
menu,” whereby the cocktails are mixed with perceived individually.11
specific olfactory notes to improve the con- As stated, synesthesia is understood as the
sumer’s mood.5 And recently, scientists from perception of an experience achieved by stimuli
the University of Oxford found that the taste of not normally associated with that experience.2
chocolate can be altered in conjunction with Recent studies indicate it is a neurological
changes in music or sound; thus, the auditory phenomenon but its causes are not entirely
sense influences the taste and feel perception of clear.12 In fact, a particularly interesting com-
the taste buds.6 ponent of synesthesia that has been identified
In personal, home and health care, in 2016, from a neurophenomenological point of view
the first "beauty bar" of Latin America, "We is the emotional force exhibited by synesthetic
Love Nails," was launched in Bogotá, where experiences. Thus, the emotional component
clients could sample beverages and experience of synesthesia has been reconsidered from a
new concepts in nail care. Also, Apple Inc. neuroscientific perspective.13
launched a candle scented like a MAC computer Without a doubt, synesthesia presents a
upon opening the box for the first time.7 In great opportunity for innovative concepts in
2017, a fragrance company launched the “scent- the cosmetics field. Considering this potential
to intersect and amplify sensorial experiences,
a study was undertaken to develop a product
design model based on synesthetic evaluations
of tactile, audio, scent and taste stimuli, and
The rise of the "experience economy" is supported by neuroscience techniques (implicit)
currently one of the most important global and explicit evaluations. For the described
trends in marketing. Now, more than ever, studies, specific motivations were considered
consumers desire immersive entertainment. (see Table 1).
a
Tobii EyeCore
Implicit Explicit
Aspects evaluated How to evaluate Aspects evaluated How to evaluate
Qualitative and
Color, odor, flavor, texture
EEG, functional magnetic quantitative tests;
Frustration, and sound; efficacy and
resonance imaging home-use test;
meditation/relaxation, performance, e.g., "Soap
(fMRI), eye tracking, focus group; efficacy
excitement/like, should smell clean and
facial expression, electro tests with bio-
interest good," or "Soap should
dermal activity engineering
produce enough foam."
equipment
the panelists for ratings on moisturization and cone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and)
softness, during which one of four different dimethiconol dispersion;
musical arrangements was played (see sche- • Formula B: 30% petrolatum dispersion;
matic in Figure 2).
This was repeated with the same formula • Formula C: hydrogel formulation in liquid
but different music. Subjects were unaware format; and
they were experiencing the same formulas and • Formula D: an acrylic emulsion.
rating them again for hydration and softness
Sample sounds: Regarding the music com-
properties. This process was repeated for
positions, Table 2 shows characteristics of the
all four musical arrangements and product
“Four Seasons” compositions by Antonio Viv-
samples so in total, participants experienced
aldi in 1723.14 This music was chosen because
4 × 4 = 16 formulas/musical arrangement
it is programmatic and evokes different ideas
combinations.
and images for each season of the year. Each
Sample formulas: The evaluated formulas
has a varied tempo (shown below), sound and
included the following.
interpretation, ranging from acute to severe, to
• Formula A: 30% cyclopentasiloxane (and) allow for well-differentiated sounds associated
dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethi- with different mental states.
Season Characteristics
Winter
Allegro non molto: Snow falls; the storm is unleashed.
Largo: The rain falls and you can hear the drops hitting the tiles of the houses.
Allegro: Now we walk on the ice. The step is insecure; there are slips but the
ice is breaking. The thaw begins, the music is agitated and everything is moving
Autumn
Allegro: The peasants sing and dance; the harvest has been good.
Adagio: The calm is absolute. Everyone is sleeping.
Allegro: Now Vivaldi evokes hunting scenes: shotguns, dogs, the beast that flees
and finally dies, harassed by all.
Summer
Allegro non molto: The heat produces fatigue; breathing is slow and deep.
Adagio: Follow the stupor, and the flies are impertinent.
Presto: Vivaldi describes a storm and the rapid scales evoke the force of the
wind and the violence of the storm.
Spring
Allegro: Awaking the spring, one hears the song of the birds, the murmur of the
fountains, the storm.
Largo e pianissimo: Tranquility, whispering of the plants, barking dogs; the
shepherd sleeps
Allegro: A country dance (Sicilian) is heard and the bass strings imitate the foot
pedal note of the hurdy-gurdy.
• Spring I: relates to joy, 120-128 (fast pace); In contrast, a third pair included an image of
a desert with the printed word hydration. For
• Summer III: expresses tension and force,
this discordant match, only 18% of panelists
168-200 (very fast pace);
focused on the image; the larger majority
• Autumn II: presents calmness, 66-76 (mod- focused on the word (see Table 3).
erate pace); and This served as the criteria to evaluate and
• Winter I: signifies contemplation, 40-60 interpret touching-hearing eye-tracking tests.
(slow pace). More specifically, as panelists experienced
tactile, visual and taste stimuli, if their eyes
Touching-hearing focused more on the image representing
Synesthesia Calibration the desired trait, the more concordant their
experience and therefore, the greater the
To calibrate the synesthetic experience of
synesthetic effect.
panelists, a figure/ratio test was first performed.
This comprised tracking the eye movements
Results:
of panelists as they experienced pairs of visual
stimuli and considered whether each was Touching-hearing Relation
concordant or discordant.15 The resulting shape Following the calibration step, the sample
of their recorded saccade patterns—i.e., rapid formulas were presented with music and the
movements of the eyes between fixation points, same visual stimuli as described, and panelists
provided insight on the subjective levels of evaluated the formulas in terms of perceived
perceived agreement or disagreement between hydration and softness. Figure 3 shows the
the stimuli, which helped to classify their calibration and assessment process; Table 4
synesthetic response. shows results of the synesthetic responses
For example, the first pair of visual stimuli of panelists based on eye-tracking; Table 5
included an image of a waterfall and the printed provides a comparison between these implicit
word hydration. The second pair included an responses and explicit panelist ratings.
image of cotton balls and the printed word soft- It was interesting to see music change the
ness. For these two concordant pairs, 82% of perceptions of hydration and softness. Specifi-
panelists tended to focus more on the images. cally, the silicone dispersion gave the softest
CT1803_Research_Jimenez_fcx.indd 39
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
% Panelist concordance
% Panelist concordance
Hydrogel Acrylic emulsion
% Panelist concordance
% Panelist concordance
2/15/18 2:55 PM
Intersecting the Senses
CT1803_Research_Jimenez_fcx.indd 41
Citrus Spicy Floral
* *
* * *
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
2/15/18 2:55 PM
Intersecting the Senses
'Liking' for the floral note significantly increased with all four music selections.
they also simultaneously rated it for fragrance • Stage 3. Evaluation of fragrances while
intensity and liking/pleasure on a scale of 1 to listening to autumn.
10, from lowest to highest. • Stage 4. Evaluation of fragrances while
The process was divided into five stages, listening to summer.
whereby the panelists randomly and blindly
evaluated the same fragrances but while listen- • Stage 5. Evaluation of fragrances while
ing to different music—the same four seasons listening to winter.
arrangements noted above. This protocol,
shown in Figure 5, comprised:
Rating Results:
• Stage 1. Evaluation of fragrances without
Smelling-hearing Relation
Table 6 shows the panelist ratings for fra-
music.
grance perceptions, which indicated the citrus
• Stage 2. Evaluation of fragrances while and woody notes showed no significant change
listening to spring. in intensity or liking when paired with any
Figure 7. Example analysis of 'liking' during synesthetic evaluation of EEG; the panelist smelled the
fragrance while listening to the music.
musical arrangements. In contrast, liking for For example, Figure 7 shows how frustra-
the floral note significantly increased (p < 0.05) tion and interest curves change during the
with all four music selections; its perceived synesthetic experience. These changes are
intensity was not impacted by music. A sig- quantified to evaluate the liking of a fragrance
nificant increase (p < 0.05) in spicy note liking while the panelist is listening to music.
was observed with the autumn music selection; The olfactory notes showing the greatest
however, significant increases for both intensity variation in perception when paired with
and liking resulted from pairings with the sum- different music arrangements were: spicy,
mer and winter music. floral and Perfume 1 (floral). Those demon-
Perfume 1 demonstrated significant strating the least amount of change due to
improvements (p < 0.05) in intensity only musical influence were: citrus, woody and
when coupled with summer and winter music. Perfume 2 (citrus). Under the conditions of
Finally, for Perfume 2, the perception of this study, these results identify a trend for
liking significantly improved (p < 0.05) when greater sensitivity with floral fragrances than
paired with autumn, summer and winter citrus fragrances.
music selections. Table 7 shows a comparison between
extrinsic ratings and intrinsic EEG results for
EEG Results: the overall smelling-hearing evaluation.
Smelling-hearing Relation
The results from the EEG measurements
Tasting-touching
in this study are presented in Figure 6. For all Synesthesia Calibration
fragrances, changes in brain activity in terms of For the tasting-touching tests, as par-
liking were noted with the addition of music, in ticipants experienced stimuli, the same eye
comparison with the initial evaluation without tracking devicea coupled to software was again
music. This technique identifies and measures used to record their responses. Before testing
the strength of micro-electric fields generated began, the synesthetic experiences of the panel-
by coherent activity between thousands of ists were again calibrated similarly to described
neurons. Therefore, detection of brain electri- above using a figure/ratio test,13 to find agree-
cal signals favors the description of behavioral ment/disagreement based on the shape of
changes such as reactions to visual, audio, panelists’ saccade patterns (see Figure 8).
sensory or emotional stimuli, such as frustra- For the tasting-touching evaluation, how-
tion and interest, in mere in milliseconds. ever, some changes were
implemented. First, an
image of a lime or chocolate
paired with the words acid
(acido) or sweet (dulce) was
shown to the panelists,
to create concordant and
discordant responses. Fol-
lowing these flavor-related
pairings, panelists viewed an
image of cotton balls always
paired with the concordant
word softness (suave) as they
simultaneously tasted the
chocolate or acid gum and
experiences the different
textures on their skin.
This synesthesia calibra-
tion of the taste-touch panel
provided an interesting
Figure 8. Calibration for tasting-touching relation response pattern. Similar
to before, concordance
between the lime or chocolate image with the majority of panelist eye traffic focused on the
appropriate word acid (acido) or sweet (dulce) discordant word.
was once again reflected in the panelists’ eyes For the tactile portion, as expected, after
focusing on the images; this was true for 94% panelists viewed concordant taste-related
of the panelists (see Figure 9). Also similar to pairs, as they viewed the image of cotton balls
before, where discordance was felt between the with the concordant word softness (suave) and
flavor-related images and printed words, the simultaneously experienced the taste and tactile
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A statistically significant difference in the softness rating for petrolatum was observed as panelists tasted sweet chocolate.
stimuli, their eyes were drawn to the cotton ball repeated for all four formulas. The objective was
image. However, after viewing discordant pairs, to determine how the perceived sensation of
seeing the image of cotton balls with the same softness and hydration were modified in relation
concordant word softness (suave) drew eye to the taste stimuli. Figure 10 shows the process.
traffic toward the word softness rather than the
image of the cotton ball. Rating Results:
This served as the criterion to evaluate and Tasting-touching
interpret the tasting-touching eye-tracking tests, Figures 11 and 12 provide a comparison of
described next. Specifically, as panelists experi- the ratings for hydration and softness, respec-
enced a product, if they were more focused on tively. A statistically significant difference (p <
the image of cotton balls than the word softness 0.05) was observed in the softness rating for
(suave), this indicated the formula texture pro- the petrolatum dispersion when tasting the
vided a perceived softness. If panelists focused sweet chocolate.
more attention on the word softness (suave)
than the image of cotton balls, this indicated Eye-tracking Results:
discordance and the formula did not provide a Tasting-touching
good perception of softness.
Figure 13 presents a summary of the tactile
results obtained for the evaluation of the four
Tasting-touching products as panelists experienced different
Relation Protocol flavors. Here, while tasting acidic flavor, panelist
The panelists then felt one of the four responses showed the tactile experience of the
formulas previously described while tasting emulsion was the most concordant with softness
an acidic gum or sweet chocolate and viewing (suave); therefore, it was the most synesthetic
the image of cotton balls and the word softness sample to the acid sensation. While tasting the
(suave). They evaluated the formulas once again sweet flavor, panelist responses indicated the
for both hydration and softness properties tactile experience of the petrolatum dispersion
using a perception questionnaire. was the most concordant with softness (suave).
Unaware to panelists, the same formula Therefore, it was the most synesthetic sample to
was used while the flavor was varied; this was the sweet sensation.
This advertisement is published in a magazine distributed in various countries all over the world and so may contain
statements not applicable to your country. Marketers of finished products containing Vitachelox ® are responsible for
e n s u r i n g c o m pliance with all applicable la w s a n d re g u l a t i o n s o f c o u n t r i e s w h e re t h e f i n i s h e d p ro d uc t will b e so ld .
KEY POINTS
• High definition images capture minute details
on the face, thus allowing imperfections to be
more noticeable.
Formulating Forum
Zooming in on
HD Cosmetics
Soft Focus Effects
Maintains Regulates
Hydration Controls Pigmentation
Inflammation
Hyaluronidase Tyrosinase &
inhibitor COX & LOX Peroxidase inhibitor
modulator
Clinical: Significant reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, under eye dark circles and
yellowish skin tone due to the reversal of glycation and improvement in elasticity & firmness.
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These high definition images capture 4. Flexibility: The product should create an
pictures that are at least three to four times elastic film, able to adapt to the changing shape
sharper than the old format. Indeed, they reveal of the skin. Overly matte formulations can lead
details of any imperfection in the subject’s skin to a dry or flaky skin appearance.
or the applied makeup layer. When the govern- 5. Brows: It also is important to not to
ment replaced the traditional analog signal with forget the brows, since they are “as individual as
a digital one, professional makeup artists were fingerprints.” As such, each step in the treat-
presented with a challenge. Newly enhanced ment of HD brows is “completely bespoke from
evidence of fine details led to the judgement of the personal consultation and shape design to
their professional capability to make clients look tailoring and the aftercare process.”4
good on the HD screen.
In this age where “selfie fever” is growing, The Oil Phase
beauty-loving consumers are chasing the HD Oil and fatty ingredients provide body to
look using different approaches (apps, tutorials, emulsion formulae, e.g., foundation, mascara,
etc.) and new, efficient makeup products. The etc., and structure anhydrous products such
five key rules of these makeup products are as lipstick. They restore skin lipids, wet the
explained below.1–3 pigments, develop colors and allow their easy
1. Moisturization: Skin must be well distribution over the skin. Moreover, they give
moisturized. water resistance to the applied film and long-
2. Coverage: Covering power must be high lasting effects.
while maintaining a natural look with the In pigmented formulae, the most important
capacity to improve the skin’s appearance. property required is homogeneous color spread-
3. No shine: Skin must appear radiant not
shiny with the use of the right highlighters to
avoid enhancing imperfections.
properties describes something more than just network structure.8 Research on this elastic
“stabilizing the emulsion.” characteristic has led to a significant number of
Another aim of polymer producers is to patent applications.9
extend their functionality so as to solve the In contrast, the recently developed bis-
problem of pigment wetting. Frequently, there octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol
are incompatibilities between water-soluble copolymer is able to not only to improve the
thickening polymers and certain pigments. For long-lasting capacity of the film, but also the
example, polyacrylic acids lose their thickening wetting of both inorganic and organic pigments,
ability when combined with zinc oxide pig- leading to stable pigment suspensions with
ments. This is because the zinc cations on the very high pigment loads. An example mascara
surface of zinc oxide pigments interact with the formula (see Formula 1) containing the poly-
carboxylic acid groups (anion) of the polymers, mer at 1.00–2.00% reportedly defines the lashes
which can easily form aggregates.6, 7 and shows increased lengthening and curling
In relation, the properties of the hydro- effects; fluid foundations show higher coverage
phobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose effects using the same amount of pigments
(HHM-HEC, INCI: Sodium Stearoxy PG- (not shown).10
Hydroxy-ethylcellulose Sulfonate) are quite Silicone polymers also can offer the right
noteworthy. Interestingly, HHM-HEC forms performance. One of the most frequently cited
a hydrogel by self-association of the alkyl ingredients is a crosspolymer derived from the
chains in water, where, at a concentration combination of a dimethicone chain and a vinyl
range above 0.6%, it is able to form an elastic dimethicone. Used alone or in combination
with fillers such as silica and/or beeswax or aim of the formulator has been to choose pig-
stearyl dimethicone wax, it imparts a smooth ments that are both compatible with a formula’s
skin appearance and soft focus benefits when external phase and whose levels can be reliably
incorporated into a foundation formulation (see scaled up to consistently produce the desired
Formula 2). color.11 Initially, standard coatings were made
based on alumina and stearic acid. Since then,
Pigments and Pearls different coating possibilities such as silicone,
In the 1980s, the appearance of coated pig- silicone polymers, cellulose, lecithin and amino
ments was revolutionary news. Since then, the acids have become available.
Specific to HD color, innovative pigments pigments are often used to disguise fine lines
developed from the deposition of titanium and wrinkles in products such as foundations.
dioxide at variable thicknesses and/or iron oxide According to Shiseido, a spherical pearl agent
on mica or synthetic mica provide one of the with a two-layer structure—consisting of a
best solutions. These options improve the color spherical powder of uniform particle size at
reproducibility of the finished product, enhance the core surrounded by a layer of pearl par-
the natural look with the correct covering ticles—can allow the pigment to both disguise
capacity, and provide a luminous effect for high the wrinkles and create a vivid shine.12 Interest-
face definition. ingly, much like their soft focus effects, the line
A plate-shaped pigment may be selected to between the chemistries in this latest generation
achieve maximum shine due to the light reflec- of pigments vs. pearling ingredients is blurring.
tion capability of the particle; however, such
pigments can also emphasize the brightness Soft Focus
difference of uneven surfaces, making lines and Soft focus components are crucial in anti-
wrinkles more noticeable. In contrast, spherical wrinkle/anti-imperfection products. As many
Finished Effects
The textures of foundations, similar to those of
a primer or BB Cream, are clearly visible under HD
conditions. Consequently, these formulas do not
contain pearling ingredients, which as stated, can
impart shiny properties and an oily appearance,
HD makeup is meant to
cover imperfections while
maintaining a natural texture.
emphasizing small wrinkles and skin irregulari- promise between coverage, comfort and finish
ties. Further, powder products should be applied while keeping the natural look of the skin.
carefully to avoid a chalky or floury appear- To counteract dark spots, redness and dark
ance. The airbrush makeup method is now circles, or to dampen undesirable undertones of
widely used, especially in the cinema industry, the skin, fillers are a perfect option, as they are
because it gives a natural, clean and clear look capable of balancing discoloration and giving
to the face. freshness to the appearance.18 These ingredients,
Natural skin radiance, whether white, brown called interference pigments, do not give a pearl
or yellow, is universally desired. As such, HD finish. They are extremely fine and, conse-
makeup should leave a light and smooth film quently, opaque. They do not contribute to the
with a skin-like finish. Not too matte or dewy, visual appearance of the finished product, but
the layer should aim to mimic the skin texture they affect the color after application.18 Accord-
and be invisible; in other words, a perfect com- ing to the laws of physics and the rules of color
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
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KEY POINTS
• Designing formulations with maximum
preservation efficacy using minimum
preservative quantities is vital for several
reasons, outlined here.
T
Jun Usukura, Mandom Corp., Osaka, Japan
Masaki Ookawa, Ookawa Research Labo., Kanagawa, Japan
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Cosmetics & Toiletries
© 2018 Allured Business Media. ® | 65
Products used in-bath are easily contaminated by water, which may reduce preservative efficacy.
Attributes include:
• Useful in various products due to
its water solubility; Attributes include:
• Effective at wide pH ranges; • Effective under acidic conditions and at neutral pH;
• Less effective than parabens, • Often used for mascara and eyeliners due to low adsorp-
especially for mold; tion to film-forming materials and brushes;
• Volatile material, exercise • Effects are reduced by complex formation with cat-
caution; and ionic components; and
• Carries some odor. • May cause discoloration due to reaction with metal salts.
Acid-based Preservatives
Attributes include:
• Effective under acidic conditions
but weakened at neutral pH ranges
since the undissociated form is
active (see Figure 2); and
• Effective pH range differs accord-
ing to product type.
Attributes include:
• Effective under acidic condi-
tions and loses effectiveness at
neutral pH;
• Effects are reduced by Figure 2. Ratio of undissociated acid-type
complex formation with
cationic components;
preservatives; example calculation of main acid
preservatives
• Often used for relatively
acidic shampoos.
Chlorphenesin
Attributes include:
Attributes include:
• Effective under acid conditions and less
effective than benzoic acid at neutral pH; • Used for water-based products, powders and
solid products—e.g., makeup powders and
• Effects are reduced by complex formation
eye shadows—due to broad-spectrum anti-
with cationic components;
bacterial activity, similar to paraben; and
• Used as a stratum corneum softener and
• Adsorption to nylon and other fabrics is less
for acne control; and
than paraben.
• Legally permitted upper limits of acids and
salts differ in some countries. MIT/Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Quaternary Ammonium Salts Mixture
Attributes include:
Attributes include:
• Effective at wide pH ranges;
• Highly effective at low concentrations (on
• Strong effects at low concentrations; benzal- the order of just a few ppm);
konium chloride is effective at < 100 ppm;
• Mainly utilized for in-bath formulations
• Effects are reduced when combined with having the potential for water immersion
anions due to cationic properties; and during use;
Alcohol Compounds
Ethanol, Isopropyl Alcohol
Attributes include:
• High versatility with aqueous products due
Attributes include: to its relatively high water solubility;
• Considered low risk (ISO 29621)16 at ≥ 20%; • Effective against various microorganisms at
a wide pH range;
• Surfactants increase its effects;
• Peculiar smell can be unpleasant; and
• Bacterial resistance does not readily
develop; and • Categorized as a preservative in the EU.
Diol Compounds
1,2-Pentanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
(1,2-Octanediol)
Attributes include:
• Act as moisturizers with antimicrobial effects;
• Often used for paraben-free and preservative-free product claims since legally, they
are not preservatives;
• Longer chain diols have stronger effects than shorter chains; e.g., caprylyl glycol is effec-
tive at < 1% and 1,2-pentanediol is generally used at 1–5%; and
• Esther oils reduce the effects of caprylyl glycol due to its low aqueous solubility.
Attributes include:
• Combinations of preservatives with high percentages of these glycols have synergistic
effects and can reduce the amount of preservatives required (see Figure 3);15 and
• Can prevent the development of resistant bacteria.
Organised by:
#incosGlobal
in hot and humid environmental conditions. the diversity of the preservative palette.
Once again, close attention should be paid to This activity by researchers may appear
potential microbial growth caused by moisture defensive in nature, but it will work offensively
uptake by low-Aw products. and proactively toward a more successful
future. How? This offensive defense strategy
Summary will help to maintain the preservative and
Preservative systems depend on the preservative booster palette.
formulation design; therefore, the efficacies
of individual formulations differ. The various References
points described here must be considered, or 1. https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/documents/17203/attach-
the formulation efficacy will not meet expecta- ments/1/translations/en/renditions/native (Accessed Feb 2,
tions. Failure to apply this knowledge will 2018)
cause the excessive use of preservatives, lead- 2. R Urwin, K Warburton, M Carder, S Turner, R Agius and SM
Wilkinson, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazo-
ing to the utilization of maximum quantities; linone contact allergy: An occupational perspective, Contact
which as described, is an undesired scenario. Dermatitis 72(6) 381-386 (2015) doi: 10.1111/cod.12379
It is critical for researchers to acquire this 3. MD Lundov, C Zachariae and JD Johansen, Methy-
fundamental knowledge and these technical lisothiazolinone contact allergy and dose-response
relationships, Contact Dermatitis 64(6) 330-336 (2011) doi:
skills. Applying this knowledge will enhance 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2011.01901.x
the efficacy of the accumulated data and the 4. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=uriserv:
proficiency of each manufacturer, and thereby OJ.L_.2016.198.01.0010.01.ENG&toc=OJ:L:2016:198:TOC
ensure safe and effective formulas. Therefore, (Accessed Aug 1, 2017)
the cooperation of formulators and microbi- 5. ES Abrutyn, Optimizing formula preservation, Cosm & Toil
125(3) 22-28 (2010)
ologists is essential. This will elevate the level
6. SP Denyer and RM Baird, Antimicrobial preservatives and
of preservative system design and maintain their properties, Guide to Microbiological Control in Pharma-
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Boca Raton, FL USA 324-344 (2006)
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http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
KEY POINTS
• Cosmetic marketing and education has turned
to digital platforms, as opposed to traditional
beauty counters.
• Global ingredient and marketing trends are opening
the door for the new wave of cosmetic leaders.
Changing Face
of Cosmetics
Global Trends Push Personal Care Back to Basics
Karen Yarussi-King
Global Regulatory Associates, Inc.,
Raleigh, N.C. USA
both positive and negative changes, depending cosmetics. To drive consumers to their stores,
on where you work within the industry. The Sephora used technology to personalize the
continued harmonization of the global cosmetic purchasing experience while Ulta offered hair
industry facilitated by technology will be the salons to modernize the old department store
real stimulus for future innovation. sales model because consumers still wanted
to see, smell and feel the products. However,
The Way We Buy Cosmetics once consumers found products they liked, they
For years, consumers went to the depart- could purchase more of those products on the
ment stores to have a beauty advisor analyze Internet or with mobile apps. At the same time,
their skin or to receive a makeover. It was a TV retailers such as QVC and HSN offered an
personalized face-to-face service that drove automated replenishment option, providing
women to stroll through the dozens of beauty convenience while ensuring sales for brands.
counters until enticed to sit down, be pampered Around 2010, subscription services such
and buy product. Competition in department as Birchbox and Ipsy changed the purchasing
stores was fierce, as there was not much differ- landscape again, and probably forever. Sub-
ence between the color cosmetic, fragrance and scription services targeted those consumers
skin care product offerings, so customer loyalty that wanted to try products without having to
was key. In response, beauty brands used go to the mall. This opened the door to direct-
gifts with purchase, beauty advisor-customer to-consumer marketing of products, a less
relationships and seasonal palettes to market expensive route of entry for new brands. This
their products. became another launchpad for indie brands to
In the late 1990s, specialty retailers, led enter the market and the almost-certain demise
by Sephora, appeared in malls with a new of brick and mortar shopping.
one-stop, self-serve, try-before-you-buy model Ironically, the much-desired, personalized
dedicated to selling only cosmetics, fragrances shopping experience appears to have been
and skin care but with the addition of toiletries, replaced by the impersonal nature of the
hair care and later, beauty tools. Initially, only Internet and smartphone apps as the future of
Generation X and Millennials, with limited how we are buying cosmetics. Now, consumers
time and money, embraced this new model can buy products from all over the world with
while many baby boomers continued to shop just one click, and without any human contact.
at department stores. Specialty retailers had In place of traditional marketing, consumer
an allure: the ability to play with and compare e-commerce behavior is being monitored. The
hundreds of products in a no-pressure atmo- information collected is allowing many brands
sphere, since the beauty advisors were not paid to look for ways to both customize product
by any one brand. As a result, smaller, “hipper” offerings and personalize the online shopping
brands launched and found success in specialty experience. This area will continue to grow in
retailers without the costs associated with the future with increased global competition,
paying for beauty advisors or counters, as in the creating a new cosmetic landscape with a level
department store model. playing field where traditional brands will need
The rise of additional specialty retailers to either acquire indie brands or find alternative
such as Ulta and e-commerce drove specialty ways to remain relevant. The infusion of smart
retailers to find more creative ways to market digital technology will be key.
product safety. As an extreme example, arsenic, to stay, Kline & Company has reported that the
while natural, is clearly not safe; therefore, the global natural personal care market was worth
safety profiles of many natural ingredients are $30 billion in 2013 and has grown at a double-
being studied. Conversely, phenoxyethanol is digit pace since 2008. By 2018, the natural
synthetic and, after many studies, is considered personal care market is expected to grow to $46
to be safe. Even natural essential oils cannot billion globally. The demand for halal-certified
escape scrutiny, as seen in the regulation of products is likely to follow suit.
fragrance allergens. Predicted Winners: Natural Brands
Anti-pollution products will no doubt be the Predicted Losers: Brands that do not
next big thing as people struggle globally with embrace global trends
the impact of various types of environmental
pollution on their health. Intuitive beauty Types of Products We Want
brands will focus on targeted product offerings Back in the department store days, if you
that counteract the impact of specific, regional were under 30 years old, beauty advisors
pollutants in response to customization and recommended a three-step skin care routine
natural trends. Traditional ingredients from consisting of cleanser, toner and moisturizer to
places such as China, Africa and India are slow down the signs of aging, followed by basic
showing up in products as consumers embrace makeup. If you were over 30 years old, the skin
natural, old world remedies for eczema, rosa- care routine was more focused on moistur-
cea, acne and other skin conditions exasperated izing to minimize the appearance of aging, and
by pollution. Scientific studies on natural ingre- included a multi-step makeup routine to hide
dients are providing breakthroughs in product facial imperfections.
performance for natural-based products. The Internet brought us new global beauty
If there was any doubt that this trend is here trends that made us think differently about skin
the trick is government recognition of these ethnicities to brands that allow for color prod-
actives to make relevant claims. ucts to be personalized to match a wider variety
Color cosmetics have perhaps been impacted of skin tones. Another area for growth will be
the most by social media and the no-makeup, efficacious all- or mostly-natural color cosmetics.
natural beauty craze. Twitter, Facebook, Snapchat South America has brought an awareness to
and Instagram have given rise to highlighters, a gap in hair care offerings that is being filled
illuminators, makeup primers and contouring by indie brands in other parts of the world.
products. Amateur makeup artists and beauty Hair care innovations will also be the result of
influencers are abundant on YouTube, teaching science-based ingredients with innovative styling
us new ways to use these products to take the tools and new product categories. The United
perfect selfie—essentially 21st century beauty States is most certainly a leader in this space.
advisors. They are also redefining classic looks Predicted Winners: Indie brands
with a more modern twist. The cosmetic indus- Predicted Losers: Brands that do not
try has always had celebrity endorsements, but embrace global trends
this trend has turned YouTube video stars around
the world into mainstream celebrities hired by Where to Go From Here?
brands to help design and promote their prod- One thing is certain: the electronically savvy
ucts. One of the most important recent beauty beauty brand owners will be the driving force
innovations in color was the advent of gel nail behind the future of our industry. Industry
polish, a response to consumer needs. growth will be driven by innovations resulting
Multicultural beauty is predicted to be the from the marriage of science-based natural
source of future growth in this category. Cus- ingredients with novel concepts produced by
tomization will help to drive consumers of all nimble indie brands responding to consumer-
defined needs. We will again see the competition
of old but on the Internet instead of in the
department stores, and with multiple points
Empowering
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