Stone wash

Stone wash
Stone washing of denim fabric gives
"Used" or "Vintage" look on the
garments.
This is due to the varying degree of
abrasion in the garment.
The traditional stone washing of denim
garments normally carried out with
pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and
desirable look.
The pumice stones having oval and round
shape with a rough surface, work as an
abradant in washing cycle.
The variations in shape, composition,
hardness and porosity gives different
washing effect in the denim fabric.
 Stone wash Process Seq.
During washing, these stones
scrap off dye particles from the
surface of the yarn of the denim
fabric which shows a faded,
worn out and brilliance effect
in the denim fabric.

Due to ring dyeing of denim

fabric and heavy abrasion
during stone washing, the
fading is more apparent but
less uniform.

Stone washing makes the denim

garments more supple so that it
fits comfortably.
 Pumice Stones

Pumice is a natural volcanic stone used for stone washing

garments. It is crystallized with substantive pores.
Pumice is mostly used for stone washing due to its durability to
chemicals treatment, it's strength and light weight.
 Stone wash Process
In order to get the desired washed effect, the stone should be of
proper hardness, shape, and size.
For heavy weight denim fabric large and hard stones are suitable
and smaller and softer stones are suitable for light weight denim.

Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1

The degree of colour fading during stone washing depends on
several factors, such as, garment to stone ratio, washing time, size
of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments.

The washing time may varies from 60 - 120 min. Stones may be
reused until they disintegrate completely.
 Limitations of Stone wash
Stones may cause wear and tear of the fabric and may damage to
washing machine due to abrasion of the stone.
It may also create the problem of environmental disposition of
waste of the grit produced by the stones.
Increase the labor cost to remove stone dusts from finished
garments.
The denim garments is required to washed several times for
complete removal of the stones.
The process may cause back staining and re-deposition.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets in the denim garments as well as the
drum of the washing machine get abraded which substantially
reduces the quality of the garment and the life of the equipment.
 Synthetic Stones
In order to find an alternate to pumice stone synthetic stones have
been introduced.
These synthetic stones are produced from abrasive material such
as silicate, plastic, rubber or Portland cement.
The advantages of synthetic stones in stone washing are:
The major problem faced by using the pumice stone has been
overcome.
Synthetic stones are more durable than pumice stone and can be
repeatedly used from 50-300 cycle.
The washing effect may be manageably reproducible.
They cause less damage to machines and garments.
 Perlite – An alternative to Pumice
Perlite stonewash is a new stonewashing process.

Perlite is a naturally occurring silicon rock, contains 2-6% of

water content in it.

Due to this reasons, when heated at a particular temperature,

perlite expanded 4 to 20 times of its initial volume.

These properties of perlite make it suitable for stonewashing

process.

Perlite offers less damage to washing machine than pumice

stones.

It gives better supple and softer finish to denim garments.

Acid wash
 Acid Wash
Acid wash on denim jeans is becoming very popular due to its
significant contrasts and attractive appearance in color.
Acid wash can be carried on Indigo & Sulphur base fabric
garments.
Acid wash is a chemical wash on denim which stripped the top
layer of color and make a white surface while the color remained
in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look.
This wash is being carried out by pre soaking stones in bleach and
then followed by neutralization.
Acid wash of denim garment normally carried out by tumbling
the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution which
contains sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or potassium
permanganate (3 to 6%).
This cause localized bleaching which produce non uniform sharp
blue/white contrast.
 Acid Wash Garments

In this wash addition of water is not required. The color

contrast can be increased by optical brightening treatment.
Acid Wash – Process Sequence
Acid Wash – Limitations & Remedies
Limitations of acid wash:

Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow after

wet processing.

The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete

neutralization, washing or rinsing.

Remedy:

Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with

addition of ethelene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid as chelating agent.

Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone wash, but

came with added dangers, expenses, and pollution.
Enzyme wash
&
Bio Polishing
 Enzyme wash

In order to minimize the adverse effect

of stone-washing, the denim garments
is washed with enzymes.

The enzyme breaks the surface

cellulose fibers of the denim fabric and
removes during washing.

During enzyme washing certain

amount of indigo dye and cellulose
fibers from the surface of the fabric are
removed.
 Enzymes
Enzymes are proteins, found in all living organisms, plants,
as well as animals and microorganism.

All organisms produce a wide range of enzymes.

Enzyme washing is ecologically friendly due to the natural

origins of enzymes.

Enzymes basically catalyse specific chemical reactions and

are known as 'bio-catalysts'.

Enzymes act on living cells and can be work at atmospheric

pressure and in mild temp and pH.
Enzymes Lock & Key
 Enzymes Lock & Key
The basic mechanism of enzyme reaction consists of binding of the
substrate to the active site on the enzyme which causes changes in
the distribution of electrons in the chemical bonds of the substrate.
This ultimately causes the reactions which lead to the formation of
products.
The products are removed from the enzyme surface which
regenerates the enzyme for another reaction cycle.
The active site of enzyme has a unique geometric shape which is
complementary to the geometric shape of a substrate molecule.
Due to this reasons enzymes specifically react with only one or a
very few similar compounds.
Enzymes are highly specific and the specific action of an enzyme
with a single substrate can be explained by the "lock-key theory".
 Enzymes Reactions
Enzyme molecule has formed a complex with the substrate to
catalyse a reaction.

The binding sites of the enzyme recognize the corresponding

domain of the substrate.

After proper orientation of the molecules, the reactive site of the

enzyme molecules have access to the appropriate part of the
substrate molecule.

When the reaction is over, the product formed quickly detach

from the complex.

The model of enzyme substrate elementary reactions is explained

by the Michaelis-Menten mechanism.
 Enzymes Reactions

Michaelis-Menten
mechanism.

The basis of the Michaelis-Menten mechanism of enzyme action. Only a

fragment of the large enzyme molecule E is shown
 Enzymes Reactions
The enzymes used in bio-stoning are "cellulases."

Cellulase acts mainly on the surface of the fiber, but it leaves the
inner intact.

Cellulase removed by partially hydrolyzing the surface of the indigo

dyed fiber of denim fabric.

Cellulases are blends of selective enzymes that break down cellulose

into glucose.

Cellulase enzyme can be classified according to pH range in which

they are more effective, such as acid, neutral and alkaline stable
cellulases.

The first two types are commonly used.

 Enzymes Reactions
Acid Cellulase : pH range of 4.5 - 5.5 , temp. 50 C.
Neutral cellulose : pH 6 - 7.0, temp. 55 C.
Neutral cellulase is preferred to acid cellulase due to little or no
back staining, less loss of strength and weight.
Acid cellulase are lower in costs and shorter enzyme cycle time as
compared to neutral cellulase.
Cellulases are used under biological conditions of temperature 40 -
60 C and pH.
Cellulase enzymes are used in stone washing process. So, less stones
are required and causes less damage to the machinery and fabrics.
Cellulase treatment on fabric reduce fuzz and pills, increased
smoothness, softness, luster and brightness, improve fabric handle
and drapeability and increase the wash down effects.
 Advantages of Enzymes
• Cellulase is economical and environmentally friendly as
compared to stone washing using pumice stones.

• The percentage of fabric damages has been reduced with

cellulase treatment.

• The enzymatic treatment of denim fabric ensures the same

result by consuming less water and time, resulting less waste
and damage to machines.

• The pollution, quality variability, and imperfections also

reduced in enzymatic treatment.

• The enzymes can be recycled.

 Advantages of Enzymes
•The productivity of washing is increased due to the space
formerly taken up by the pumice stones in the washing
machines can now be filled with more jeans.

•The time consumption for removing stone fragments from the

denim garments has been eliminated in cellulase treatment.

•The duration or number of rinse washing after enzymes

treatment is less than pumice stone-washing.

•A small quantity of enzyme can replace several kilograms of

pumice stones during washing, which ultimately leads to less
damage to garment, machine and less pumice dust.

•Washed garment with soft handle and better appearance is

achieved in cellulase treatment.
 Disadvantages of Enzymes
Cellulase treatment of denim fabric having some
disadvantages.

There may be chances of back-staining in cellulase

treatment.

In order to remove the back stating, the garments are

rigorously washed.

This is added usage of water for the washing.

 Bio Wash/Polishing
The appearance of natural cellulosic material, such as cotton can
be improved though an enzymatic treatment.
This is known as Bio-Polishing. The bio-polishing treatment
remove the fuzz and pilling from the fabric surface and gives the
fabric a softer and smoother handle, and superior colour
brightness and glossier appearance.
In Bio-polishing process cellulase enzyme which is a protein
which has a specific catalytic action upon the 1,4-b-glucosidic
bonds of cellulose.
The cellulase enzyme molecule is too large to penetrate the
interior of a cotton fiber.
Hence it only act on the surface 1,4-b-glucosidic bonds. Cellulase
is a complex multi-enzymatic system and it acts on cellulose in
two different
 Mechanism of Bio Polishing
Endocellulases hydrolyze the
cellulose by converting it from
crystalline cellulose to
amorphous cellulose.

The b-1,4 link inside of the

cellulose polymer is cut
randomly.

Extremities of the polymer is cut

by Exocellulases.

Cellobiohydrolases exocellulases
detach two units of glucose
leaving cellobiose.
 Bio Polishing Process Conditions

Bio-polishing can be carried out on cotton as well as viscose,

jute, flax, ramie etc. It can be applied at any wet processing
stage or in other processes.

Typical process conditions is as below:

Enzyme : 0.5% to 2.0% OWF

pH : 5 to 5.5
Temperature : 50 to 550C
Time : 30 to 60 min
 Enzyme Wash Bio Wash/Polishing
Here we use cellulase enzymes Here we use cellulase enzymes
which attack and weaken cellulose which attack and weaken cellulose
(cotton). (cotton).

Enzymes weaken the surface The removal of protruding fibres

fibres, which are then (Hairiness) will take place.
mechanically torn off during
processing taking with them Enzymes weaken and break the
indigo. hairs from the fabric surface.

The need mechanical action to No colour fading is formed.

work, often to improve the rate of
abrasion they are used with No abrasion process is required.
stones.
Bath process and not applied with
Fading due to removal of colour stones.
with the fibres due to mechanical
abrasion takes place. Surface will be smoothened.
Sand Blasting
 Sand Blasting
This process refers to a physical
process which creates localized
abrasion or colour change on the
denim similar to the effect seen on
well used jeans.

Sand blasting technique is based on

blasting an abrasive material in
granular, powdered or other form
through a nozzle at very high speed
and pressure onto specific areas of
the garment surface to be treated to
give the desired distressed/
abraded/used look.
 Sand Blasting
It is purely mechanical process, not
using any chemicals.

If required stone wash can be made

and then sand blasting can be
proceeded for different effect.

It is a water free process therefore

no drying required.

Variety of distressed or abraded

looks possible.

Any number of designs could be

created by special techniques.
 Sand Blasting Methods
Microsanding
There are 3 ways for this technique:

 Sandblasting
 Machine sanding
 Hand sanding or hand brushing

Used in various ways:

 Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)
 On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing,
sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated')
 Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect.
This process is isolated now a days due to health hazards & buyers do not like the
results of sandblast because its covers the characteristics of fabric. This process
being done by using different kind of sand blown to garments with air pressure to
rub out the color.
 Ozone and
Laser Fading
 Ozone Fading

In this technique of denim

washing, the garment is bleached
with ozone dissolved in water in
a washing machine. However
this technique can also be
carried out in a closed chamber
by using ozone gas. The
advantages of this methods are:

- There is minimum loss of

strength
- It is a simple method
and environmentally friendly.
The ozonized water after
laundering can easily be
deozonized by UV
radiation.
 Ozone Fading

OZONE FADING

- By using this technique, the garment can be bleached.

- Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine
with ozone dissolved in water.
- Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using
ozone gas in closed chamber.
- In the presence of UV light, there is an interaction between
the hydrocarbons, oxides of nitrogen and oxygen that causes
release of ozone.
- Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow due to ozone
reaction.
 Ozone Fading
Ozone induced yellowing is a major problem on denims.

This is due to the sun's UV radiation.

The increased concentration of NOx and SOx gases due to

pollution can potentially react with ozone and reduce its
concentration tremendously in the ozone layer.

As a result a portion of the sun's UV radiation reaches to the

earth's surface and generates ozone gas from the atmospheric
oxygen.

Ozone (O3) being a very strong oxidizing agent decomposes

indigo dye in the following manner.
 Ozone Fading

Based on molecular weight calculation

One gram of ozone could destroy 10.9 gram of indigo dye.

The ozone induced oxidation of indigo produces certain

compounds which are 'isatin, anthranillic acid, and the
complex of the two products.' which is yellow in colour.

This is the reason of yellowing due to ozone fading.

The factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments:

•Position of the dyestuff in the fibre
•Absorption and diffusion of moisture in to the fibre
•Humidity
•Protective chemicals on the fibre
•Ozone concentration;
 Factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments

Position of dyestuff in the fibre:

The yellowing due to ozone is directly proportional to the amount of
back staining generated in the wash process. Back staining is the re-
deposition of indigo dye released during various wash process. Re-
deposited dye has more loose sites for oxidation resulting in the
yellowing of denim garments, the use of anti re-deposition chemicals
in the de-size and abrasion baths can prevent the re-deposition of
the released dye by suspending the dye particles in the bath and not
allowing the re-deposition to happen.
Absorption and diffusion of moisture in to the fibre:
The increase in humidity accelerates ozone fading of indigo dye stuff
as high humidity give rise to a surface water film that increases the
ozone absorption rate. This is due to the increased surface
concentration and also the increased rate of diffusion in the fibre.
Fibres swell after the absorption of moisture and the swollen fibres
are always in a more receptive condition. So the problem of ozone
fading will be more prominent in high humidity regions
Factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments

Humidity:
High humidity raises the absorption rate since the fibre is more
receptive due to swelling. With 0.2 ppm of ozone level, the time to fail
(2.5 rating on AATCC -scale) increases substantially as the relative
humidity increases. At the RH of 80, the time to fail would be 34 hours
and this would fall in to 16 hours at RH 85.

Protective chemicals on the fibre:

The conventional oxidants such as Sodium Bisulfite, Ethylene Diamine
Derivatives etc, will provide only short term protection against ozone
fading. This type of anti oxidants undergo very rapid chemical
de-composition and do not provide the protection required when the
garments are stored for extended periods of time in high ozone
concentration.
Selected amine based softeners can provide the protection for ozone
fading. Since the softeners are applied substantially in large quantities
as compared to anti oxidants, they can provide protection for an
extended period of time.
Factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments

The usage rate of anti-ozone softeners are highly depened on the

activity of the product. The rate at which the cationic softener
exhausts on the cellulose is related to the pH of the softener bath.
Anti-ozonates are solubilized by lowering the pH of the product.
Once in solution an increase in pH reduces the solubility of the
softener and the exhaust rate increases significantly. As the pH of
the bath reach certain point (pH - 8 or above), the softener
exhausts so rapidly that it plates out on the surface of the fabric.
The excess softener on the surface has a clammy, tacky feel and
will yellow severely when dried. For optimum exhaustion of this
product on to the garment, the temperature should be kept in
between 45 - 5 5°C and pH in between 6 to 6.5.
Usage of anti-ozone softener to prevent the ozone fading in indigo
denim is not the complete solution. Thorough study for the
reason for yellowing must be done before going for any remedial
measures - for the complete control.
Factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments

The other reasons of denim garment yellowing:

This is the yellow discoloration thattextiles can develop

during processing, use or storage. Since this yellow
discoloration, which appears on the fabric on low intensity,
it can be visible only on white and pastel shades. Dark
shades are also affected, as colour becomes dull. There are
many reasons for this yellowing.
•Yellowing due to softeners;
•Use of fluorescent whitening compounds;
•Phenolic yellowing;
 Factors influenced in the yellowing of indigo dyed garments

Yellowing due to softeners;

Cationic and silicone softeners are commonly used to impart a good handle to
the fabric. Both these softeners generally contain primary, secondary and
tertiary amines and some times amides also. All these groups contain
Hydrogen atom attached to Nitrogen atom. The former is susceptible to
substitution and can be replaced by chlorine and form chloramines.
Chloramines being yellow in colour impart yellowness to the fabric. Most of
the commercial detergents contain carriers of chlorine bleaches. So each
domestic wash the fabric tends to yellow more. Also the amines and amides
are nitrogen-based groups can very well oxidized to nitrogen oxides if the
finished fabric is over heated. Even during the normal drying of the garment/
fabric these groups can be oxidized and can produce different oxides of
nitrogen. Nitrogen oxides are brownish in colour and at very low
concentrations they seem yellow.
Use of fluorescent whitening compounds;
Fluorescent whitening agents are used to improve the whiteness of fabrics,
these fluorescent whitening agents absorbs the UV light and emit it in a visible
region. This emitted light is blue white in colour and mask the yellow colour
of the material.
 Laser Fading

Laser marking/Spray painting is a computer controlled

technique through which different patterns or designs, such
pictures, images, lines, text etc., can be developed on denim
garments.

It is also called spray painting in denims. In this technique

chemicals or pigments is sprayed on the fabric in order to
get different pattern on the garments. This is followed by
curing of the garment.
Laser Fading
 Laser Fading - Advantages

The advantages of the systems is:

•It is a water free process. Hence it is an It is an ecological and

economical process. There is zero effluent discharge

•As this process in computer controlled, the chances of human

error is negligible.

•This system having excellent reproducibility and higher

productivity.

•The machine requires less maintenance and cleaning.

•Consuming less time.

•This technique having no adverse effect on fabric strength.

 Over-Dyed / Tinted Denim
Over-dyeing / tinting of denim is an additional dyeing treatment
which is normally carried out on jeans after sewn.
This add another tone of color to the jeans.
Normally denim garments is over-dyed with yellowish dye for
appearing dirty look.
Tinted / over-dyed denim garments shows a used / vintage & muddy
look to the garments.
Tinting of denim garment normally carried out after the stone wash
process.
During tinting, a little amount of tint or color is added to the
garment in order to change the hue/cast/tone of indigo shade.
However, when the quantity of tint color increases, it cover up
indigo.
 Over-Dyed / Tinted Denim

There are various types of dyes used for over-dyeing / tinting

purpose, such as:
-Direct Dyes
-Reactive Dyes
-Pigment Dyes
-Sulphur Dyes

Tinting process normally taken 5 to 15 minutes.

This is followed by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.
Tinting of denim garment normally carried out after stone wash
process.
However this process consumes more water and chemical.
 Over-Dyed / Tinted Denim

An alternative methods has been developed, in which novel

colour based enzymes have been used.

This process allows tinting and stone washing to be carried

out in a single bath.

The advantages of the new technique are:

Consumes less water, energy and takes less process time to

achieve tinted look.

No extra chemical used in this process.

Chances of patches or unevenness in the garment is almost

nil.
Stretch Denim
 Stretch Denim

Stretch denim is made by combining elastan fiber with cotton.

Spandex and Lycra are two of the most commonly used elastics.
This is what gives the denim its stretch.

Spandex was first created in 1959 by Joseph Shivers, a chemist.

The elastic was immediately incorporated in the fashion industry,
and in the 1970s it was combined with denim. Today, every jeans
manufacturer has its own version of stretch denim.

Stretch denim jeans have the ability to conform to your body's

shape each time you put them on. With most denim, it takes time
to "wear in" a pair of jeans so they fit perfectly. The elastan fiber
makes the jeans stretch, so they can fit right every time.
 Stretch Denim
Typical Application of Spandex Lycra:

The Stretch Property can be achieved by insertion of Elastromeric yarn or

filament in the stage of weaving.

It is normally applied in the weft direction.

Difficult to insert through warp way direction.
Though the stretch property required in the width way, it is effective in the weft
way insertion.

Normally, monofilament of 20 Den, 40 Den, 70 Den and 100 Deniers are used
depends upon the type of denim as well as the stretch required.

A heat setting process is required before any wet processing carried out for the
stretch denim fabrics to control the stability of Lycra.

It will not be affected by any of the chemicals applied on the denim garments.

But, the stone wash and sand blasting techniques may abrade the lycra filament
tends to breakage of lycra. Gentle application is required in this finishes.
 Stretch Denim

Warp way Stretch:

For stretch denim, core spun yarns are generally employed.

The core yarns are elastomeric filaments, the cover yarns are cotton
yarns made generally by open end spinning.

During core spinning, the elastomeric filaments are stretched by 300-

400 per cent.

On contraction of the filaments after the process, stretchability will

develop on the core spun yarns so formed.

In some cases, for cost reduction, wrap cover yarns in which case two
or more wrapping yarns are wrapped round the core elastomeric
filaments are used.
Peach Finish
 Peach Skin Effect
Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to
emery wheels, makes the surface velvet like. This is a special
finish mostly used in garments

Peach finish will create dense and short hairs on surface of

fabrics.

This will make fabrics feel soft, delicate and smooth, suitable to
all types of garments.

With the character of soft, rich and warm hand feeling, the peach
product is one of the most popular finishes on fabric in recent
years.

This finish will turn garments into natural and archaized after
washing.

Mingshi was equipped with several kinds of peach finishing

machines, such as carbonized peach, sand peach and brush etc.
 Peach Skin Effect - Features

Features:

1) Micro fiber is also called peach

skin, famous for its soft hand
feel.

2) It can be processed by printing

and PA and PU coating.

3) It is widely used for jackets,

pants and sportswear.

4) After the printing of beautiful

patterns, it is always used for
beach-shorts.
Vintage Denim
 Vintage Denim

Vintage Denim

It is a type of denim
washing in which the
denim garments is
subjected to heavy
stonewashing or a
cellulose enzyme wash,
with or without bleach
for showing an old and
worn out look.
Marble Wash
by Bleaching
 Marble Wash by bleaching
Denim bleaching normally carried
out with a strong oxidative bleaching
agent such as sodium hypochlorite or
KMnO4.

Bleaching may be carried out with or

without the addition of stone.

The bleaching washing effect and de-

coloration usually depends on
strength of the bleach liquor, liquor
quantity, temperature and treatment
time.

The bleached fabric materials should

be properly antichlored or after
washed with peroxide to reduced the
subsequent yellowing or tendering of
the bleached denim fabric.
 Marble Wash by bleaching
NaOCl Bleach
• The bath material to liquor ratio is set at 10:1 and temp. at 140°F.
• Add 0.5% owg of Soda Ash
• Add 20 - 30 g/l. of Sodium Hypochlorite 12%
• Bleaching to be carried out for 10 - 20 minutes with comparing to the wet
standard,
• Drop and rinse

Antichloring
Antichloring treatment is required as traces of NaOCl left on the fabric which
will form hypochlorous acid. This may consequently yellow and weakens the
fabric.
Antichloring with hydrogen peroxide brightens undyed cotton, increase the fabric
contrast, has no significant odor.

Typical steps include the following:

• Set the bath temp. at 140°F.
• pH of the bath to be adjusted at 9 with soda ash,
• Add 1 g/l hydrogen peroxide 50%, and run for 10 min.
• Drop and rinse
Marble Wash
 Marble Wash

Limitations of bleaching:
There are some limitations of bleaching, such as:

•The same level of bleaching is very difficult to achieve in

repeated runs.

•Bleaching treatment sometimes damage to cellulose resulting in

strength losses and or pinholes at the seam, pocket, etc.

•Bleaching liquor is harmful to human health. This may also

causes corrosion to the machine parts.

•Bleaching treatment needs antichlor treatment in order to

eliminate the subsequent yellowness to the fabric.
 Quick Wash Denim

In normal indigo dyed denim is associated with various problems

during washing.
The denim fabric manufacturer are in search to developed a new
dyeing method in which the wash cycle can be minimizes.
In this regard, Quick wash denim has been introduced in which
the fabric is dyed with modified technique of dyeing, so that
during wash cycle, indigo dye can be removed easily during a
shorter washing cycle.
Quick wash treatment procedure consume less water and
chemicals and required less time for washing, retaining fabric
strength.
By controlling the ionic form of indigo and cellulose in the dye-
bath, the uniformity of indigo dyeing can be achieved.
The alkalis used and pH conditions of indigo dye-bath produce
stable color yield.
 Quick Wash Denim

Advantages of quick wash denim

1.Quick wash denim requires less indigo dye. The washing

treatment also requires less enzymes and oxidizing agent.
Hence it is an economical and environment friendly process.

2. The development of streaks in garments after washing has

been avoided by using a modified alkali-ph controlled system
giving uniformity of shade.

3. The washing time is 20-30% less than conventional denim.

Dextroes-Caustic
Wash
 Dextroes – Caustic Wash

In case of Caustic wash, pre-treatment and printing of the garments

fabric is little bit different then the normal process.

Dextrose based reducing agent designed to reduce indigo dye on the

garment .

Normally printing on fabric is done after pre-treatment of grey fabric

that is desizing, scouring and bleaching.

But in case of caustic wash or Dextroes-Caustic wash, printing is done

on the fabric without pre-treatment of the fabric.

These fabrics are used manufacture garments.

Then the garments are subjected to caustic wash.

During caustic wash 20% – 30% pigment is washed out, as a result

different color fading affect is produced in the garments.
 Dextroes – Caustic Wash
Recipe Making of Caustic Wash :

Dextroes = 0.8 – 1%
Caustic = 4%.
Soda Ash = 2%
Detergent = 1%
H2O2 = 4%
Stabilizer = 2%
M:L =1:5
Temperature = 700C
Time = 90 min

During this processing time, impurities and size materials present in

the garment is removed together with some portion of pigment.

Hydrogen peroxide breaks down and produces per hydroxyl ions which
takes part in bleaching and reduces the color intensity of the pigment.

Neutralising by 1% Acetic acid and softener treatment will be given at

0.1 to 0.5%.
Crush Finish
 Crush Finish or 3D Effect
Resin ( Formaldehyde free ) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3
Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc.
This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin,
Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the
fabric strength & desired effect needed.
After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual
designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get
3Dimentional effect.
After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer
& then must be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in
resin product manual.
 Crush Finish or 3D Effect

If resin not cured properly , 3 D effect will not be permanent & can cause
skin irritation/rashes to the wearer. Highly skilled operators needs to
execute this process in order to get consistency & uniformity.

Whole garment can have crushed look by resin dip & crushed manually
followed by oven curing. Silicone plays an important role in getting
softer hand after oven.

Special streaky effect & Crackles also being done by applying resin on
desired area followed by scraping & pp spray then neutralization.
 Pseudo Denim

The production of pseudo denim is based

on transfer of a chemical finish to the
raised ridges of a natural denim fabric.

The chemical finish imparts a cationic

character to the raised ridges.

The cationic character imparted to the

raised ridges permits selective dyeability
to these areas of the fabric.

The transfer technique used for the

production of pseudo denim is the loop
pad process.

The fabric used for the transfer

technique is a right hand 3/1-twill denim.
 Pseudo Denim

This natural undyed denim is then desized, scoured, bleached

and mercerised.

If the fabric has a grafted quaternary or amine group, dyeing is

performed under acidic conditions with a reactive or acid dye.

The specific formulation consists of DMDHEU, magnesium

chloride hexahydrate, choline chloride and wetting agent.

The solution is then applied to the face of the denim fabric with
a wet pick up 8-17 per cent.

Once the fabric is dried, cured and washed, the raised fabric
ridges have selective dye affinity.

The dyes usually used are blue and red reactive dyes.
Stretch denim