BACKES & STRAUSS

BALL WATCH CO.

BASELWORLD
BELL & ROSS
BLANCPAIN
BREGUET

days on a single wind.

movement runs for five
tourbillon-enhanced
The manual-winding
know-how
CITIZEN
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F.P. JOURNE
FRANCK MULLER
GIULIANO MAZZUOLI
10: 2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m

TOURBiLLON ViRTUOSO
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ROMAIN JEROME
[journal]

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ULYSSE NARDIN
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The visual lightness of the

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THe WATCH mAgAziNe RedefiNed

Identically curved sapphire crystals cover both

volume
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e s t. 1 9 6 1
 +
quick reads
the watch magazine redefined
10: 2013 wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

Industry watch
The inside track from the world of watches—the
+ brands, the business, the industry as a whole.

+ LuXE fIndEr
Watch Journal
brings together
020 top products from
every corner of the
luxury market.
|

033
057
034
039 + + +
051
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MÜhLE GLashÜttE LaMBOrGhInI MaurIcE LacrOIX

This new dive watch was A new special edition Gallardo Modern styling meets double
designed in collaboration with model brings a racecar engine retrograde displays in a new
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Who’s doing what, where and why:
Discover how the watch industry
influences events, philanthropy
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In 1839 Vacheron Constantin created several machines, among them
the famous pantograph, a mechanical device which meant that for
the first time in history principal watchmaking components could be
reproduced with total precision, raising the quality of its timepieces
once again. This invention carried the brand into the future and
would revolutionise Swiss watchmaking.

Faithful to the history for which it is renowned,

Vacheron Constantin undertakes to maintain, repair
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still today gives the manufacture its reputation.

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Self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 1136 QP
Chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters
18K 5N pink gold, Water resistance: 15 bar (500 feet)
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 +
features
the watch magazine redefined
10: 2013 wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

092
084
066 + + +

MONACO MOTORING HERITAGE HOUSE DETROIT RISING

Eberhard & Co. joins Monte-Carlo's The House of Bovet aims to perpetuate Shinola revives American industrialized
annual classic car event. traditional watchmaking skills. watchmaking in the Motor City.

116
112
108 + + +

TRIUMPHANT RETURN SHINING EXAMPLE GOING PLACES

After a 17-year absence, Tudor is back Rare handcrafts shine in Patek A new partnership between Ball and
in the US. Philippe's new Ref. 6002. BMW takes off.

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Watchmaking's most clever compositions
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departments
the watch magazine redefined
10:2013 wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

in focus
+ The Graham Tourbillon Orrery,
inspired by an 18th-century prede-
cessor, was 20 years in the making.
028
|

in focus
How Officine Panerai and its
030 + charity of record, Sailing Heals,
are bringing people together.
|

5 minutes with
Master watchmaker Roger Dubuis, page 58, Bell &
058 + Ross creative director Bruno Belamich, page 60,
filmmaker Carmen Chaplin, page 62.
|

+
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The Bovet 1822
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BAL HARBOUR SHOPS • BeveRLy HiLLS • BOcA RAtOn • DALLAS
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 +
publisher’s letter
the watch magazine redefined
10:2013 wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

planetary
Dreams
and one watch that has become a reality
i have always found astronomy and cosmology to be fascinating subjects. that may be why i think the graham tourbillon
orrery is supercool. it’s a wrist-worn mechanical timepiece that also illustrates the relative positions and orbits of mars,
earth and our moon that was 20 years in the making.
our solar system has intrigued civilizations since the beginning of humanity. these days, i’m most intrigued by the
recent discoveries of new planets. with roughly three or four billion stars in the milky way, there are potentially many
billions of habitable planets out there. recently, astronomers
discovered a triple star system with three super-earths, each
three or four times the size of our planet. this system is called
gliese 667, and scientists say its only 22 light years away. i think
we should go, but getting there depends on how fast we can
travel through space.
in the 1960s, when the uS air force and naSa launched an
experimental aircraft powered by an X-15 rocket, it traveled at
a blazing 4,519 mph. later, there were the space shuttles; they
orbited the earth at a whopping 17,500 mph. then, in 2006,
naSa launched an unmanned rocket-powered spacecraft, the
New Horizons. it was clocked traveling at more than double the
speed of the shuttle, an amazing 36,360 mph. unfortunately, it
ran out of gas somewhere between here and Pluto.
But what if we could travel at New Horizons speeds all the
way to gliese 667, logging a stupendous 318,513,600 miles a
year? how soon could we arrive in beautiful gliese, explore the
trio of super-earths and return home—a round trip of 44 light
years? let’s do the math.
a light year is equivalent to 5.878625 trillion miles. dividing that impressive number by our stupendous 318,513,600
miles per year, it would take 18,456 years to travel one light year. But astronomers have determined that gliese 667 is 22
times more distant. instead of zipping through space for 18,456 years, our total voyage to this distant system will take
a mind-boggling 406,032 years—one way! allowing a few hundred thousand years for traipsing around each of gliese’s
super-earths before making our return trip home, i guess we’re looking at about a million years altogether.
i hate to be the one to expose how unlikely we are to reach any of the habitable planets in gliese 667; however, we have
plenty of time to fantasize about it and plenty of time to read more about the graham tourbillon orrery. find the story on
page 28 of this issue. enjoy!

—Glen B. Bowen
publisher

014
10:2013 | w a t c h j o u r n a l . c o m
Grande Seconde Quantième, ref. J007030245
Côtes de Genève dial and blue opaline flange. Stainless steel case.
Self-winding mechanical movement. Power reserve of 68 hours.
WWW.JAQ U ET- DROZ.COM
 +
letter from switzerland
the watch magazine redefined
10:2013 wa t c hj ou r n a l . c om

spreading
the word
recently, my wife’s english family came to visit us in Switzerland for the first time. we had a full house, and we were look-
ing for things to do together, especially “Swiss” activities—chocolate factory tours, fondue dinners, visits to the major cities,
historical castles and more. one day we hiked into the mountains, and we ran into emmanuel Bouchet, the watchmaker
behind harry winston’s opus 12, in a café at one of the ski stations. he invited us all to his workshops in the tiny jura
village of les geneveys-sur-coffrane to see how his watches are made.
i wasn’t sure this was a good idea—a visit to a watchmaker’s workshop is not everyone’s idea of a good time—but i
needn’t have worried. the entire family was captivated by
all that goes into the making of the opus 12. Bouchet did
such a great job of introducing these newcomers to watch-
making that, by the time it was over, they were completely
sold on fine watches.
a few days later, i was seated next to a “captain of
industry” on a flight in the uS. he was wearing a nice suit,
expensive shoes—and a $100 timex ironman. it was quite
incongruous, really. don’t get me wrong, i have great
respect for timex as a company, and i think the ironman
is a quality watch, but the bottom line is that this guy just
didn’t know about choices like the harry winston opus
12. and that’s where we watch lovers come in. we can
spread the word about watches and bring more people Emmanuel Bouchet
into the fold.
i struck up a conversation with this gentleman, who in-
deed owned his own company and was very successful. he The entire family was captivated by all
asked me what i did, and we started talking about watches, that goes into the making of the Opus 12.
and within 10 minutes, my new friend was thoroughly in-
trigued and was asking me what he should buy. i suggested
that he save his timex for the gym and find an entry-level mechanical watch to wear for business. i left him with a copy
of Watch Journal, so he could start to pick out his next watch purchase.
Seeing the light come on in people’s eyes when they begin to understand the appeal and inherent value of fine
watches is a real treat for me. one of my personal goals is to get as many people as possible to see the light and enjoy
watches the way i do.

—Keith W. Strandberg
international editor
Photo by Patrice Schreyer

016
10:2013 | w a t c h j o u r n a l . c o m
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 [journal] ®

THe WATCH mAgAziNe RedefiNed

Glen B. Bowen
publisher and editor in Chief

design direCtor Dean Sebring

art direCtors Valerie Sebring, Michael Shavalier, Pam Shavalier
senior designer Alvaro Diaz-Rubio
editorial direCtor Marie A. Picon
international editor Keith W. Strandberg
Copy Chief Leann Harms
photo retouChers Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias, Michael Warnock
prepress speCialist Eric Espada
assoCiate prepress speCialist Melissa Kelly
marketing manager Hayley Merrill
traffiC manager Melissa C. Quiñones
traffiC Coordinator Jody M. Boyle
editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon
Junior photo editor Kelly Ozog
Contributors David Bowen, Mike Daly, Meehna Goldsmith, Laurie Kahle, Hayley Merrill

Adam I. Sandow
Chairman and Ceo

Chief Creative offiCer Yolanda Yoh Bucher

Chief finanCial offiCer Christopher Fabian
Chief operative offiCer Peter Fain
Corporate managing editor Pamela Lerner Jaccarino
viCe president of sales and group publisher Michael J. Ruskin
viCe president business development, strategiC partnerships Jacqueline Bicknell
e X e C u t i v e v i C e p r e s i d e n t , C o m m u n i C at i o n s Jessica Kleiman
C o m m u n i C at i o n s m a n a g e r Jennifer Dixon
C o m m u n i C at i o n s a s s i s ta n t Gennifer Delman
eXeCutive viCe president of information teChnology Juan Lopez
viCe president of Web teChnology Christopher Coleman
direCtor of softWare engineering Emmanuel Crouvisier
viCe president, produCtion Shawn Larson
direCtor of manufaCturing and distribution Fern E. Meshulam
e X e C u t i v e d i r e C t o r o f a u d i e n C e d e v e lo p m e n t Katharine Tucker
d i r e C t o r o f a u d i e n C e d e v e lo p m e n t Jeffrey Rovner
direCtor of finanCe and aCCounting Andrea Efland
Controller Barbara Mabie
a s s i s ta n t C o n t r o l l e r Kristen Delisio
aCCounting managers Raquel Howell, David Wulk
aCCounts payable managers Shirley Cruz, Shannon Kavanagh, Sherry Chelchowski
ColleCtions manager Karen Theierl
ColleCtions speCialist David Nunez
aCCounts reCeivable Emel Emin, Isaura Figueroa, Kristy Kilian
staff aCCountant Kristen Hitchcock
direCtor of human resourCes Lisa Silver Faber
human resourCes speCialist Ashley Akins
reCruiter Linda Siegel
business development manager Monica Del Borrello
developers Michael Lewis, Justin McCauliffe, Chris Santos
it serviCe desk manager Mindy Marks
senior systems analyst Chad Simpson
senior field engineer Christopher Kerry
help desk analyst Rick Jacobs
assistant to the Ceo Stephanie Brady
assistant to the Coo/Cfo Kathy Lewis
print purChasing manager Selene Ceballo
distribution serviCes manager Alexander R. Cruz
operations Tamas Szakal
administration Charlotte Auth, Casimira Betancourt, Adrian Custodio, Jessica Gonzalez,
Fran Myers, Leticia Pablos Enrique Ruiz, Maritza Severino, Duane Wilbur
print Center direCtor Bart Blackwell
digital print Center manager Christopher Ferris
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neWsstand Consultant Ron Sklon

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Watch Journal® [issn 2325-4130] is published bimonthly. Watch Journal® is a registered trademark of insync media group, a subsidiary of sandoW. Copyright 2013, insync media group. all rights reserved. reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in
any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. opinions expressed in Watch Journal® are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal® , insync media group, sandoW, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and
publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. the publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised
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WATCHJOURNAL.COm
 W hy just be precise When you can be the most precise?

master tourbillon Dualtime.

jaeger-lecoultre calibre 978b with patented jumping date.
Winner of the first International Timing Competition of the 21st century,
held under the auspices of the Geneva observatory, jaeger-lecoultre calibre 978
boasts peerless precision in a new 41.5 mm-diameter pink gold case. its 71-part tourbillon
regulator features an ultra-light grade 5 titanium carriage and a large variable-inertia
balance beating at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour. yo u D e s e rv e a r e a l Watc h.
 +
INDUSTRY WATCH
watch report | nEwS And HAPPEnI nGS FROM THE wORLd OF wATCHES

DIGITAL WORLD

+
CLASSIC
BEAUTY:
Gong Li strikes a
pose for Piaget.
undergo precision testing at
l’Observatoire de Besançon,
then it’s on to the COSC test-
ing facility in Bienne for fur-
ther evaluation. Following a
battery of tests for resistance
to shocks and magnetism at
the Arc Advanced Engineering
College in Le Locle, the
watches return to the COSC
for another round of preci-
sion testing. The results of
this year’s competition will
be announced on October 24
in Besançon. The biannual
contest repeats in 2015, with
entries accepted through
January 31, 2015.
concourschronometrie.org
The recently released Gucci Sync
watch from Gucci Timepieces &
Jewelry helped to raise money
for the Chime for Change cam-
paign this summer. Between
May 27 and August 31, half of the
retail price of two models sold
online at gucci.com was donated
to programs that empower girls
and women through Chime for
Change’s fundraising partner
catapult.org, a technology plat-
form that connects Chime for
Change community members to
the organizations and projects
that matter to them most. It
currently represents more than
80 entities in 70 countries. The
Sync was chosen for this initia-
tive because it was designed
with a young, digitally con-
nected audience in mind. The
streamlined quartz watches
come in black or white and in
36-mm or 46-mm cases.
201.867.8800, guccitimeless.com

Gucci Sync, $495

A NEW ROLE cial duties was a photo shoot

From Beijing, Piaget
announced that celebrated
actress Gong Li has become
its new global brand ambas-
sador. As a classic beauty of
exceptional talent and stead-
fast dedication, she reflects
Piaget’s pursuit of perfection.
Acclaimed for her roles in
films including “Raise the
Red Lantern” and “Farewell
My Concubine,” Li is the only
Chinese actress to have won
individual awards in all three
of the world’s major interna-
tional film festivals. Among
the new ambassador’s first offi-
with renowned Chinese
photographer Feng Hai,
in which Li is adorned
with Piaget’s Couture
Précieuse jewelry.
877.8PIAGET, piaget.com
COMPETITIVE
SPIRIT
The 2013 Concours
International de
Chronométrie is now in full
swing, with 18 companies,
12 young watchmakers and
three watchmaking schools
involved in the timekeeping
competition. Entered watches

020
10:2013 | w A T C H J O U R n A L . C O M
 Idyllic Pont des Amoureux
Poetic Complications watch, white gold,
diamonds, “contre-jour” enamel,
mechanical movement with
retrograde hours and minutes.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

Visit our online boutique at vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF


watch report | NEWS AND HAPPENINgS FROM THE WORLD OF WATCHES
EXPANSION PLANS
Watch manufacture Ulysse
Nardin has opened its third
boutique in the US in partner-
ship with Jeffrey Khalaf and
Michael Rosenberg of the
Timepiece Collection in New
Jersey. The new mono-brand
boutique is found inside the
Ritz-Carlton on Central Park in
New York City. The shop fea-
tures a collection of more than
100 of the maker’s finest time-
pieces, including models from
the Limited Edition Boutique
line. Nelson Lucero, vice presi-
dent of sales and marketing for
Ulysse Nardin, comments, “We
are thrilled to be expanding our
167-year-old brand in the New
York market with our partners,
who have been in the retail
watch industry for more than
10 years. New York timepiece
enthusiasts are very passionate,
and we cannot wait to provide
them with a destination where
they can experience Ulysse
Nardin’s craftsmanship, quality
and innovation at work.”
561.988.8600,
ulysse-nardin.com
+
INDUSTRY WATCH
DEFINING MOMENT
Audemars Piguet has launched
the fourth in a series of
online video profiles of its
brand ambassadors, each
from the world of sports and
each at the top of his game.
Following tennis champion
Novak Djokovic, racing legend
Michael Schumacher and soc-
cer’s Lionel Messi, the Swiss
watch brand has focused on
Indian cricket player Sachin
Tendulkar, who helped win the
World Cup for India in 2011.
Tendulkar’s story illustrates the
Audemars Piguet philosophy,
which advocates that in order
Ulysse Nardin at the
Ritz-Carlton, New York
022
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
+ NOW ON
YOUTUBE:
Tendulkar represent-
ing Audemars Piguet
to the balance rate regulator by
changing the active length of the
to break the rules you must first balance spring. A range of elec-
master them. For this player, tronics monitor the movement,
there were no shortcuts to suc- compare its rate to a reference
cess, but he eventually broke rate provided by an ultra-high-
many records. He is the first frequency electronic oscillator,
batsman in the history of the calculate the difference between
sport to score 100 international the timing rates and deliver that
centuries and the first cricketer information to the user. Urwerk
to score a double hundred in co-founder Felix Baumgartner
One Day International compe- says, “EMC is revolutionary in
tition. View the video “Sachin the world of watchmaking. It is
Tendulkar – Defining Moment” now a question of implementa-
on YouTube. tion. The EMC adventure is up
888.214.6858, and running. This is the start of
audemarspiguet.com something big.”
310.271.0000, urwerk.com
THINGS TO COME
Urwerk has revealed its new
EMC watch movement con-
cept, designed, developed
and manufactured to provide
watch connoisseurs with the
tools necessary to assess
and maintain timekeeping
precision. The manufac-
ture movement features a
timing adjustment screw,
accessible at the back of
the watch case. The screw
enables fine adjustments Urwerk’s EMC movement concept
 gucciwatches.com
TIMEPIECES

GUCCI COUPÉ COLLECTION


watch report | NeWS AND HAPPeNI NgS FROM THe WORLD OF WATCHeS
IndyCar champ Scott Dixon
and his Louis Moinet Legends
chronograph, $11,900
TEAMING UP
Swiss watch brand Louis Moinet
has partnered with two-time
IZOD IndyCar Series champion
Scott Dixon to create a limited
edition automatic chronograph
wristwatch honoring the racer.
The new watch is part of the
brand’s Legends Collection of
timepieces developed in col-
laboration with iconic figures,
who excel in their respective
fields. Dixon more than fits the
bill. Since 2007, he has never
finished outside of the top three
in the IZOD IndyCar Series.
Commenting on the collabora-
tion, Dixon says, “I am excited
and honored to be a part of the
Louis Moinet family. It’s a brand
with such an amazing history.
The chronograph we have cre-
ated is a beautiful combination
of great design, innovation and
precision, and I am proud to
wear it both in and out of my
Indy car.” The $11,900 steel-
cased watch, replete with racing
references, is produced in a lim-
ited edition of 365 pieces.
678.827.7900, louismoinet.com
+
INDUSTRY WATCH
BOXED SET
The Colette concept store in
Paris was the venue chosen by
Bell & Ross for the launch of its
Flight Instruments Collector’s
Box. Configured in the fashion
of an aviation dashboard, the
luxurious boxed set of Bell &
Ross Flight Instrument watches
includes the BR01 Heading
Indicator, the BR01 Airspeed
and the BR01 Climb, all of
which premiered at Baselworld
Bell & Ross at Colette, Paris
024
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
2013. These Flight Instrument
watches are limited in pro-
duction to 999 examples, and
the first 99 examples of each
model have been reserved
exclusively for sale in this col-
lector’s set. Three additional
Flight Instrument watches—the
BR01 Horizon, Altimeter and
Turn Coordinator—complete
the package.
888.307.7887, bellross.com
HAPPY ON THE GO
As part of its continuing
celebration of the 20th anni-
versary of the Happy Sport
Collection, Chopard has
unveiled new iPhone and
Android apps that allow users
to personalize Happy Sport
watches. Customers choose
materials, colors, gemstone
settings, straps and charms
to customize a 36-mm watch.
The Happy Sport creations
can be saved and modified at
a later date or ordered through
the nearest Chopard boutique.
Happy Sport watches may
also be customized using iPad
and Android tablet apps and
online at us.chopard.com/
happy-sport.
800.CHOPARD, chopard.com
EXECUTIVE
APPOINTMENTS
Christie’s International
recently announced two new
appointments in its New York
offices. John Reardon has
joined Christie’s New York
Watch Department as senior
vice president and head of
the department. With a back-
ground in watch auctions,
retail, distribution, marketing
and management, Reardon
will work to further develop
“Important Watches” auctions
in New York. At the same
time, Reginald Brack becomes
vice president and director
of private sales. He comes to
Christie’s with many years of
experience as an auction con-
sultant and curator of world-
class private collections, and
he will work one-on-one
with clients to meet their
collecting needs.
christies.com
 F O L L O W Y O U R O W N S T A R

P I LOT M O N T R E D ’A E R O N E F T Y P E 2 0 G M T

The Manufacture has consistently accompanied aviation pioneers by offering

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Boasting generous white superluminova-enhanced Arabic numerals, the

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For more information please contact:

866 675 2079

watch report | NEWS ANd HAPPENINGS FROM THE WORLd OF WATCHES
Mario Peserico, winning dial designer “Lundi,” Barbara Monti and the Eberhard &
Co. Champion V featuring Lundi’s dial
NAME GAME
Swiss watch manufacture
Christophe Claret recently
unveiled its Chinese brand
name. The name, which is
written as 柯籁天音 and pro-
nounced as “kē lài tiān yīn” in
the Pinyin phonetic system,
contains references to the nature
of sound and the melody of the
world. It’s a fitting moniker for
the maker, which specializes in
chiming mechanisms among
other horological complications.
Beyond that, anyone who is
sensitive to the visual beauty of
ideograms in addition to their
meaning may recognize a refer-
ence to a Chinese proverb in the
characters themselves.
954.610.2234,
christopheclaret.com
FINAL ANALYSIS
The final phase of a dial-design-
ing competition for online
watch forums launched last
autumn by Eberhard & Co. is
now complete. The members of
five international forums (hor-
+
INDUSTRY WATCH
logerie-suisse of Switzerland,
forumamontres of France, orolo-
giepassioni of Italy, watchuseek
of the Netherlands and relojes-
especiales of Spain) rose to the
challenge, creating dials and
voting in the first round of the
competition. A jury comprised
of international journalists and
Eberhard & Co. CEO Barbara
Monti then chose the three
winning designs. A member of
the French forum, who goes by
“Lundi,” took first prize for a
design with a motoring spirit.
A Champion V watch featuring
this dial has been produced,
and No. 1 in the limited edition
was presented to the winner by
Monti and Eberhard & Co. man-
aging director Mario Peserico.
603.206.5195,
eberhard-co-watches.ch
DESIGN CUES
Hublot, the official timekeeper of
Ferrari, Scuderia Ferrari and the
Ferrari Challenge is expanding
its partnership with the Italian
auto maker by launching a new
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50-piece limited edition dubbed
the Big Bang Ferrari Beverly
Hills. The new watch is avail-
able exclusively at the Hublot
boutique in Beverly Hills. A
UNICO chronograph movement
is the engine inside the watch’s
45.5-mm black ceramic case. Its
330 components include the
chronograph column wheel and
dual horizontal coupling that,
appearing on the dial side, is
reminiscent of a Ferrari alloy
wheel. “Gas pedal” chronograph
pushers, a dashboard style min-
utes counter and the famous
prancing horse logo provide
additional Ferrari references.
The watch is priced at $29,900.
800.536.0636, hublot.ch
MILESTONE MOMENT
Richard Mille, creator of
groundbreaking ultralight and
impact-resistant sports watches,
has opened the Proart Factory,
its first watch case and compo-
nent factory, in Switzerland’s
Jura region. The contemporary
3,000-square-meter building
represents a new milestone in
the brand’s development and an
important step toward in-house
manufacturing. Cases and
select movement components,
including baseplates and bridg-
es, are already being manufac-
tured on site by a team of 30
CNC programmers, inspectors
and polishers.
310.205.5555, richardmille.com
BUSINESS PROSE
Frédérique Constant found-
ers Peter and Aleta Stas
have published “Live Your
Passion: Building a Watch
Manufacture,” the story of their
company and the watch brands
that they have brought to prom-
inence. The couple undertook
this book project with the goals
of creating an account of their
company’s history and setting
down a guide for the long-term
culture and legacy of the com-
pany. Part coffee-table tome
and part business manual, the
book elucidates the company’s
core values, its Accessible
Luxury concept and its mission
to let more people enjoy luxury.
877.619.2824,
 +
in focus
MILLENNIUM MASTER | A MOD ERN ORRERY FOR THE WRIST
TExT bY: DAvID BowEN

A person could be forgiven for not realizing that tourbillon’s bridge is more than
a solar emblem: on either side
2013 marks the 300th anniversary of the invention of that primeval forerunner to
of the diamond at its center, the
the modern-day planetarium, the orrery. However, Eric Loth, founder of the Graham
intricate engraving depicts two
luxury watch brand, had long anticipated this day. Twenty years ago, he first discov- curving phoenix busts, George
ered astronomer George Graham’s orrery at the Oxford History of Science Museum; Graham’s own secret signature.
immediately inspired, he began work on the intricate calculations and designs that Neatly balancing the tourbil-
lon’s position are the slender
would result two decades later in the Tourbillon Orrery wristwatch. Loth’s dream
hands set atop the bridge’s
project was unveiled earlier this year at baselworld. right edge. Discreet, almost
negligible, hours and minutes
tracks mark the dial’s periphery,
THE oRIGINAL creation was a spectacular remain the same: a clockwork but this is a work of extrava-
Graham’s 1713 orrery was the breakthrough of the European mechanism, interlocking gant, virtuoso craftsmanship;
original mechanical model of Enlightenment and a famed gears, a demonstration of the and you’re unlikely to purchase
our solar system; it takes its symbol of that era’s scientific relative positions and motions it merely in order to read the
name from the Earl of Orrery, creativity. Today’s orrery is most of celestial bodies, each rep- time! You’ll be too entranced by
the instrument-maker’s patron likely to be a lightweight, bat- resented by a sphere mounted the jeweled planetary orbits.
to whom it was presented tery-powered classroom model, on a turning spindle. The timepiece is designed to
that same year. but some basic accurately track the planetary
Graham’s elements MoDERN orbits for the coming millen-
INTERPRETATIoN nium. Only occasional correc-
Loth’s new Graham Tourbillon tions are required: every seven
Orrery owes its timely comple- years for the moon, every 25
tion, in part, to the horo- years for Mars and every 1,156
+

logical genius of watchmaker years for Earth. Facilitating the

Graham’s
Christophe Claret, who collabo- schedule, a 100-year scale, etched
Tourbillon Orrery
wristwatch
rated with Loth to finalize the on the outer edge of the sap-
watch’s complex mechan- phire crystal caseback, indicates
ics. The timepiece’s the years in which each kind of
own miniature, bejew- correction should be made. The
eled orrery display watch comes with two additional
consists of the off- crystals, each marking out correc-
center, polished and tions for a subsequent century.
hand-engraved rose Thereafter, it’s hoped that further
gold tourbillon sapphire discs might be crafted
bridge, repre- to measure out the next several
senting the sun centuries at least. Given what
and dwarfing an accomplished feat of micro-
nearby Earth, engineering the Tourbillon
a blue sapphire, Orrery has proven to be, only
running a concen- 20 examples are being manu-
tric track between the factured. So if you come to own
inner zodiac scale and this remarkable piece of watch
the outer calendar; a tiny history, you will be very lucky
rhodium Moon attends. indeed—and so will your grand-
A small ruby, represent- children and great-grandchildren
ing Mars, runs an elliptical for generations to come.
course relative to the grand,
left-of-center tourbillon. The graham1695.com

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 George Graham was a brilliant
product of the Enlightenment who
made vital contributions as an
inventor and a geophysicist.

ENLIGHTENMENT LEGACY
Many of George Graham’s major inven-
tions were pivotal to the evolution of
the clock. These include the mercury
pendulum, the liquid metal component
of which ensured a more regular and
precise motion. He also created a pen-
dulum clock escapement that improved
timekeeping accuracy to within one sec-
ond per day. With such a legacy, it makes
perfect sense that Graham is considered
by many to be the father of modern ho-
rology. Graham was driven, above all, by a
naturalist’s enlightened curiosity about the
workings of the universe; he was a scientist
who pushed back the limits of the known.

What extraordinary force of nature has the
power to bring together a cadre of fascinating people from disparate backgrounds
for a Friday afternoon sail? I can think of only two: the call of the sea itself and
watchmaker Officine Panerai.
On one such recent after-
noon in San Diego, Sailing
Heals executive director Trisha
Gallagher Boisvert, award-
winning chef Jeffrey Strauss,
world champion sailor JJ Fetter,
jewelry store owner and Panerai
retail partner Vahid Moradi,
naval architect Greg Stewart,
plus administrators, doctors and
patients of the UC San Diego
Moores Cancer Center and oth-
ers all gathered to enjoy a relax-
ing time on the water. And the
one thing they all have in com-
mon is that each is connected in
some way to Panerai.
+
in focus
WELL CONNECTED | A WATCH B RAND THAT B RINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER
TExT BY: MARIE A. PICON
CHARITABLE
CONNECTION
The event was a sail organized
by the nonprofit Sailing Heals,
which provides spirit-lifting
days of sailing for cancer
patients and their caregiv-
ers, like those who joined
the sail from the Moores
Cancer Center. Panerai North
America is the group’s found-
ing partner. Boisvert remarks,
“Panerai has been an out-
standing partner to us right
from the start. The brand has
tied us to its annual Panerai
Classic Yachts Challenge
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regatta series as their charity
of record, and, they really roll
out the red carpet for guests
who attend our healing sails
in Marblehead, Nantucket and
Newport, where their PCYC
regattas take place every
August. Panerai has also put
on some truly beautiful events
in our honor to help us pro-
mote Sailing Heals to excep-
tional people who want to give
back. Through Panerai, we
have been introduced to sev-
eral people who have become
outstanding Sailing Heals
board members.”
Shoreline view from the
65-foot wooden yawl Jada
V IP
gue
st s o
n t h e s ail
COMPETITION
CONNECTION
Expressing its historical ties to
the sea (the brand was an early
20th-century supplier to the
Italian Navy), Panerai is a major
sponsor of classic yacht regattas
around the world, including the
North American Circuit of the
PCYC. These sailing competi-
tions draw classic sailing yachts
from up and down the East Coast
and beyond. It was through these
regattas that Panerai met world-
champion sailor JJ Fetter and
naval architect Greg Stewart. San
Diego natives, the two helped to
locate the perfect classic wooden
boats, including a 65-foot wooden
Event photos by Paul Barnett Photography; other photos courtesy of Panerai
yawl, for the San Diego sail.
RETAIL CONNECTION
It’s virtually impossible to talk
about Panerai without talking
about its enthusiastic customer
base. Devoted fans of Panerai
watches propelled the brand
to meteoric success in the late-
1990s, when its watches first
became available to consumers
on the luxury watch market. Chef
and restaurateur Jeffrey Strauss
is one such outspoken devotee
of Panerai watches. When he
arrived at the dock, a couple of
hours before the Sailing Heals
“ Panerai has been an outstanding
Partner to us right from the start.”
— trisha boisvert, sailing heals
outing, to check on preparations
for on-board catering provided
by his Pamplemousse Grill, he
was wearing a favorite Panerai,
the PAM 382 “Bronzo.” He
says his next watch will be the
Panerai Tuttonero, a GMT piece
in black ceramic. Luckily for
Strauss, nearby La Jolla, Calif.,
is home to one of the country’s
nine Panerai boutiques, oper-
ated by the brand’s retail part-
ner Vahid Moradi, whose C.J.
Charles Jewelers was one of
Panerai’s earliest US retailers.
Moradi is himself a Panerai col-
lector, and examples of vintage
ly catered by Strauss’
team and attended
by Fetter, who may
just have her eye on
a classic Radiomir.
And so the con-
nections continue
and proliferate,
t ri
sha als and at the center
boisvert, sailing he
of it all is Panerai, the
common element in an
Panerais from his cache were expansive network of
on display inside the boutique fascinating people and
Panerai’s PAM
on the previous evening as he exciting projects. 526 Luminor
hosted an in-store viewing of 1950 Regatta,
Panerai’s 2013 watch collection, a panerai.com, $18,800
gathering which was also expert- sailingheals.org

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 F r a n c k M u l le r M an u Fact u r e d
twin Bar rel
7 d ay Power r es erve
©2013 - The Franck Muller Group, All rights reserved

www.FrAnckMuller.coM
212.463.8898
 luxe finder
Watch Journal’s curated selection of the hottest Watches and most luxurious products

LAMBORGHINI GALLARDO LP 570-4 SQUADRA CORSE 34

ROMAIN JEROME MOON ORBITER 35

ULRICH TEUFFEL BIRDFISH GUITAR 36

CVSTOS CHALLENGE DANI PEDROSA 37
FERRETTI 960 PLANING YACHT 38

MÜHLE GLASHÜTTE RASMUS 2000 39

BREMONT CODEBREAKER 40
SMEG 500 REFRIGERATOR 42

FORTIS F-43 JUMPING HOUR 43

RINZ SOUND SPEAKERS 44
LINDE WERDELIN OKTOPUS II DOUBLE DATE TITANIUM RED 45

JAQUET DROZ ÉCLIPSE IVORY ENAMEL 46

HG ONE GRINDER 48

BELL & ROSS VINTAGE BR 126 BLACKBIRD 49

POLARIS RZR XP1000 DUNE BUGGY 50
BREITLING EMERGENCY II 51

RENATO MASTER HOROLOGE MOSTRO MKII 52

TIMOTHY OULTON RALEIGH SPITFIRE HARDCASES 54
HAUTLENCE HL2.4 55

CYKNO ELECTRIC MOTORBIKE 56

MAURICE LACROIX MASTERPIECE DOUBLE RÉTROGRADE 57
 luxefinder

street
legal
Premiering recently at the Frankfurt Motor Show, the all-
wheel-drive 2014 Lamborghini Gallardo LP 570-4 Squadra
Corse is a special edition racecar for the street that hits 60
mph in just 3.4 seconds. From $259,100, lamborghini.com

STRATEGY
A carbon-fiber rear wing and removable engine hood
are just part of the car’s weight-saving strategy.
Carbon fiber is also used liberally in the interior—for
the bucket seats, center console, door panels, and
even the steering wheel.

SPEED
A full 154 lbs. lighter than its prede-
cessor LP 560-4 and equipped with a
570-hp V10, the Squadra Corse has
no trouble reaching 124 mph in 10.4
seconds. Top speed is 199 mph.

STYLE
The car’s 19-inch forged wheels are painted in high-
gloss black, and the visible callipers of the carbon-
ceramic brakes are available in red, black or yellow.

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 luxefinder

MOBILITY TECHNOLOGY
A special mobile cylinder system at the back The 48.5-mm-wide steel case, which incor-
of the lugs adjusts for optimal wearability. porates elements from the Apollo 11 space
Each watch in the 25-piece limited edition is capsule, was designed around the self-wind-
fitted with a black alligator strap. ing mechanical RJ3000-A movement and
conceived to highlight the flying tourbillon
mechanism on the left side of the display.

SCI-FI
In a tribute to the conquest of space, Romain Jerome
presents the Moon Orbiter, an imposing creation featuring
a manufacture movement with flying tourbillon and a see-
through case fitted with five specially shaped sapphire
crystals. $115,000, 813.926.3367, romainjerome.com

FANTASY
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 luxefinder

SoloartiSt Working alone in his Bavarian atelier, luthier and industrial designer Ulrich
Teuffel creates handmade electric guitars that redefine the guitar form
while using only classic materials. The Rhodium Birdfish guitar is among
his latest creations. $25,000, teuffel.com

TONAL
This guitar’s two sets of inter-
changeable cylindrical wooden
tone bars are quilted maple
and Honduran mahogany. Their
sideways mount provides a
twangy attack.
PROPRIETARY
Hardware components, including
screws, are all manufactured by
Teuffel to ensure the perfect harmony
of all the guitar’s parts.

MODULAR
The modular design features a body of
carved aluminum parts, one modeled after
a bird and the other representing a fish.
A control unit with five-way switch forms
the head of the bird.

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 luxefinder

NUMBERS
In a nod to Pedrosa’s racing num-
ber, production is limited to just 26
watches in titanium and 26 watches
in Honda Repsol orange aluminum.
The number 26 marks the caseside.

STYLE
The dial features subdi-
als in the form of brake
discs and a power reserve
indicator styled like a fuel ELEMENTS
gauge. Pedrosa’s logo is
etched onto a plate at 9. Two vents on the left side of
the case add dynamism to the
design and recall the air intakes
of a motorbike. Other biking-
inspired elements include the
crown, which is evocative of
a flywheel, and chronograph
pushbuttons inspired by throt-
tle and brake grips.

Race way Cvstos presents the Challenge Dani Pedrosa Limited Edition, its first watch co-created with
Pedrosa, a MotoGP racing champion. Inspired by the world of motorcycle racing, the watch is
both lightweight and powerful. $22,000, 212.463.7045, cvstosusa.com

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 luxefinder

shipshape
Preserving the hull design and waterlines of the Ferretti 881 while maximizing new concepts, the Ferretti 960 is a
new flagship and the largest planing yacht ever built by the Ferretti Group. Price upon request, ferretti-yachts.com

CLASS
With its 23.98-meter hull length, the boat is
firmly in the CE design class, meaning it can
be managed as a pleasure boat, eliminating
the need for a professional captain.
COMFORT
A layout with the master cabin
on the main deck and four
equivalent guest cabins on
the lower deck plus three crew
cabins with access from the
galley is a first in a Ferretti
planing yacht.

LIGHT
Glass runs the length of the main deck,
contributing to a light and sporty profile and
providing lots of natural light in the interior space.

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 luxefinder

SAFETY
RELIABILITY An illuminated dot on the graduated,
Equipped with a self-winding automatic two-tone dive bezel marks the start of a
movement, featuring a shock-resistant dive. The bezel’s uni-directional rotation
woodpecker neck regulator with fine is a diving safety feature, which ensures
adjustment capability, this timepiece is that dive time cannot be accidentally
a powerful and reliable diving partner, lengthened by an inadvertant rotation of
whether in the frigid waters of Rostock or the bezel during a dive.
the warm currents of the Mediterranean.

READOUT
The bezel and dial are designed for
legibility. Super-LumiNova applied
to the hands, numerals and mark-
ers keep the watch’s essential
information easy to read, even in
fading light. The dial is availabe in
blue, black or orange.

Originally designed in collaboration with

research divers at the University of Rostock to
conquer the harsh conditions of the water
world
Baltic Sea, the new Rasmus 2000 by Mühle
Glashütte is at home in every corner of
the underwater world. $3,499–$3,599,
727.896.8453, muehle-glashuette.de

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 luxefinder

DETAILS
DESIGN The watch takes style cues from
a classic 1940s officer’s watch.
The self-winding watch has a Pine from the floorboards of
winding rotor made in part from the center of operations at
the wheel of an original Enigma Bletchley Park is incorporated
machine. The design of the case- into the watch’s crown. On the
back is influenced by the wheels of caseside, fragments of paper
England’s Bombe machine, used to punch cards from Bletchley
break the Enigma codes. Park are used to form each
watch’s limited edition number.

DEDICATION
The limited edition com-
prises 240 watches in steel
cases and 50 in rose gold. A
portion of the proceeds from
sales of this watch help to
fund the ongoing restoration
of Bletchley Park.

code
read
A tribute to the World War II–era codebreakers of
England’s Bletchley Park, who famously cracked the
ciphers generated by Germany’s Enigma machines, the
new Bremont Codebreaker incorporates historical arte-
facts and offers flyback chronograph and GMT function-
ality. $33,995, 800.BREMONT, bremont.com

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Marine Chronograph Manufacture
Self-winding movement. Silicium technology.

Enamel Grand Feu dial. 18 ct rose gold case.

Water-resistant to 100 meters. Limited Edition of 150 pieces.

For a catalog, call 561-988-8600 or

W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M usa13@ulysse-nardin.com
 luxefinder

cool
Part of the Fiat 500 Design Collection, the Smeg 500
3.5-cubic foot chest refrigerator revives a historic
20th-century collaboration between two Italian legends:
automaker Fiat and appliance manufacturer Smeg. Price
upon request, smeg.fiat500design.com

running

FORM
The front end of a Fiat is replicated with headlights,
grille, wheels, tires and a hinged hood. Reflecting its
Italian roots, the refrigerator is offered in red, white
and green.
FUNCTION
Keep the hood open for display without losing your
cool. Glass sliding doors beneath the hood keep the
cold air in. An adjustable thermostat maintains cold
drinks at the desired temp.

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 luxefinder

SELF-WINDING SIMPLICITY
The watch uses an automatic Swiss move- A rotating dial with a single aperture
ment, Fortis Caliber F-2024 with 21 jewels, changes position on the hour to reveal
28,800 bph and Incabloc shock protection. the correct hour numeral of a station-
ary disc below the dial. A single minutes
hand is the only other visible moving
component on the dial side.

Jump Start Fortis presents its own twist on the jumping hour complication in the new lim-
ited edition F-43 Jumping Hour Black, available with four straps and one bracelet
option. $4,600, 845.425.9882, fortis-watches.com

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 luxefinder

big noise Each pair of handmade Rinz Sound speakers

reflects the ethos of eco-conscious product
designer Arina Sprynz, whose work on luxury
products has been attracting attention world-
wide. From £18,000, rinzsound.com

TECH
The three-way, 150-watt
speakers use aluminum dome
tweeters and woven Kevlar
woofers. Each stands 51
inches high and weighs a
little over 50 lbs.

TOUCH
The Ghost Pearl color is one of
nine different options made from
recycled glass and an organic
resin. Some are embellished with
ethically sourced exotic skins:
python, water snake or gazelle.

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 luxefinder

COLOR
The titanium color of the dial adds to
the apparent depth of the multilevel
ICONOGRAPHY display and enhances the contrast
between the black ceramic bezel and
The crown bears an engraving of the the dial’s red details.
collection’s octopus icon, and the
caseback is decorated with an octopus
design drawn by brand co-founder
Morten Linde.

DEPTH
Linde Werdelin’s new Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red
was conceived for use with the maker’s attachable Reef
diving instrument in mind. Prominent laser-cut red wheels
at 11 and 1 turn to display the watch’s namesake double-
digit date. $10,900, 888.894.4255, lindewerdelin.com

PERCEPTION
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 luxefinder

poetry
Jaquet Droz’s poetic flagship moon
phase model, the Éclipse, is now
presented in a 39-mm red gold variation
with grand feu enamel dial. This piece
is designed for men and women with a
penchant for refined elegance.
$27,400, 888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com

in motion
POWERED
A self-winding Jaquet Droz 6553L2
mechanical movement drives the
watch’s poetic displays. It features
double spring barrels and 22-karat
white gold oscillating weight.

CELESTIAL
DISPLAYED The watchmaker’s signature number,
eight, is reflected in the dial’s interpre-
An elegant serpentine hand surmounted
tation of a night sky, studded with eight
by a crescent moon points to the date
precious metal stars. A racquet-shaped
numerals, which are set at intervals at
cover obscures and then reveals a gold-
the edge of the dial. Apertures display the
en moon at 6.
month and the day of the week.

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 luxefinder

daily grind
A companion to the home espresso machine and a boon to the coffee
connoisseur, the finely crafted HG one grinder is designed to produce a
complex and rich-tasting espresso. From $905, hg-one.com

ENDurING
Crafted of stainless steel and
aluminum and designed to be
simple to clean and service, this
hand-powered grinder is built to
last for generations. Each easily-
replaced burr set is rated to last
for 30 years—that’s about 1,600
lbs. of coffee beans.

robuSt
The 83-mm conical burr grind-
ing mechanism comes in a
choice of a titanium nitride
coating or a micro bead blasted
finish and is designed
to release ground coffee,
reducing the amount of residue
in the mechanism.

CLASSIC
With its clean lines and basic-
black finish, this machine has the
makings of a modern classic.

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 luxefinder

bird
watching
Bell & Ross brings together vintage inspiration, contemporary sen-
sibilities, aviation history and complex mechanisms in a tribute to
the legendary Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird: the limited edition BR 126
Blackbird flyback chronograph. $6,700, 888.307.7887, bellross.com

TIMING
The chronograph features flyback functionality, which
stops, resets and restarts the timer with a single push
of a button. Central chronograph seconds and minutes
hands make for easy readout of elapsed time.

COLOR READOUT
The black PVD finish of the 43-mm A tachymetric scale, date display, 24-hour am/
stainless steel case echoes the black pm indicator and time display with small seconds
titanium body of the stealth recon- round out the indications of the dial. A highly
naissance plane. Inside the case, curved, anti-reflective sapphire crystal provides a
an automatic mechanical Dubois window on the dial.
Depraz movement powers the
watch’s broad range of functions.

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 luxefinder

POWER
The 107-hp, 999.6-cc
Prostar 1000 engine runs
on 87-octane fuel and
accelerates from 0 to 50
mph in 5.33 seconds.

COMFORT
AGILITY
The all new, moisture-resistant
A new high-performance, bolstered seats slide forward and
on-demand all-wheel-drive backward. The new steering wheel
system enhances responsive- has 10-inch tilt.
ness and handling and delivers
full torque for pulling through
corners and over washboards.

sand
blaster
An advanced suspension and class-leading
acceleration deliver outstanding control and
a smooth ride at any speed in the Polaris RZR
XP1000. From $19,999, polaris.com

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 luxefinder

Life saver
Breitling presents the first wristwatch with a built-in dual-frequency
locator beacon. The Emergency II uses a transmitter that com-
plies with the international satellite alert system and functions to
issue alerts and to guide search and rescue missions. $15,750,
800.641.7343, breitling.com

PRECISION
The Breitling Caliber 76 ther-
mocompensated SuperQuartz
movement is COSC-certified.
It powers analog time and
digital multifunction displays,
including a 1/100th-second
chronograph, second time
zone, calendar and battery
end-of-life indication.

SIGNAL
POWER
A new integrated antenna sys-
tem comprises two extendable A powerful rechargeable bat-
antenna sections that are manu- tery was developed specifically
ally deployed on each side of the for this watch. A charger/tester
titanium case. Depending on the device automatically checks the
circumstances, the transmitter operation of the transmitter
uses either part or all of the two whenever it is plugged in.
antennas to transmit alternately
on two emergency frequencies.

051
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 luxefinder

real A six-sided case is the standout feature of the Renato

Master Horologe Mostro MKII, a 50-by-55-mm behemoth,
produced in 15 distinct dial and case combinations, each one

steel
numbered and limited. $1,495, renatowatches.com

FEATURE
The rubber strap is custom-
tooled to fit the case; its deploy-
ant clasp neatly hides the tongue
of the strap underneath.

ENGINE
An 8-mm screw-down
crown provides 300-
meter water resistance
and protects the watch’s
DISPLAY Swiss-made Ronda
The notched bezel anchors a sapphire quartz movement.
crystal and frames a multi-layered
dial, displaying the date at 1, retro-
grade day of the week between 8 and
12, and small seconds at 6.

052
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
skeletonized automatic movement

212.463.8898
www.CVSTOS.COM
 luxefinder

flight
time
Interlocking aluminum panels and riveted construction pay hom-
age to the English spitfire airplanes of World War II in a collection
of Raleigh Spitfire hardcases from designer Timothy Oulton. $495–
$895, timothyoulton.com

FINISH
A five-stage finishing process
endows the aluminum with
a gently worn look. Inside,
a sueded fabric lining features
a fighter jet blueprint design.

DETAIL PROPORTIONS
Hand-dyed aniline leather grips and In four sizes ranging from 18 inches to 32
interior leather trim recall a pilot’s inches in length, the handcrafted classic
flight jacket, and Timothy Oulton’s hard cases serve a whole range of functions;
signature bowler tag provides the the smaller cases can double as briefcases
finishing touch to each piece. and as luggage.

054
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 luxefinder

POETIC
PRACTICAL
A half-trailing hours function uses a chain that advances
the digital hours display over a period of about three The automatic winding system winds a
seconds each hour, revealing the beauty of the mecha- spring, which in turn winds a secondary
nism in action and preventing extreme jumps in energy. spring. This secondary spring drives the
time display and is kept fully wound to
ensure an optimal energy level when
the hour and retrograde minutes dis-
plays spring into action.

PATENTED
The watch uses an
in-house movement
with three patented
mechanisms that regu-
late energy and com-
pensate for the effects
of gravity to improve
timekeeping precision.

next gen
A new variant among the second-generation
models from Hautlence, the HL2.4 introduces
a grade 5 titanium case to the HL2.0 line of
timepieces with wraparound sapphire crystals.
$65,000, 41.32.924.0062, hautlence.com

055
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 luxefinder

pedal
power
Vintage styling meets modern engi-
neering in the Cykno electric motorbike,
a sustainable mobility solution from
motorcycle engineer Bruno Greppi and
luxury product designer Luca Scopel.
Price to be announced, cykno.com

FRAME
HANDLEBAR
The central motor is mounted to a carbon
Aluminum parts, such as the
fiber cradle, which is attached to the bike’s
handlebar, pedals, front fork
monocoque carbon fiber frame. The bike’s
brackets and rear caliper
battery takes a full charge in four hours and
bracket, pair with the carbon
has a range of 37 miles.
fiber frame to keep the bike
light. This electric vehicle
weighs in at just over 57 lbs.

WHEEL
A carbon fiber front fork holds the 26-inch front wheel; the rear wheel
is equipped with a stainless steel brake disc.

056
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 luxefinder

MECHANISM FINISHING
Automatic Caliber ML191 is The stainless steel case is 43 mm in
adjusted in five positions and diameter and features polished and
drives retrograde displays of the satin-finished surfaces. The crocodile-
date and 24-hour time in a skin strap is lined in black calfskin and
second zone. Central hours and stitched in black. Like the case, the
minutes, small seconds and strap’s folding clasp incorporates both
remaining power reserve round satin and polished finishes.
out the indications of the dial.

modern
Designed to reflect the dynamism and elegance of
the 21st century, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Double Rétrograde combines modernist sen-
sibilities with technical sophistication. $7,900,
609.750.8800, mauricelacroix.com

masterpiece
057
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 +
Five Minutes with...
roger dubuis | the return of a namesake
text by: Keith W. strandberg
When master watchmaker roger Dubuis re-
turned to the manufacture that bears his name two years ago this october, one of
the great misfortunes of modern watchmaking was remedied. Dubuis couldn’t be
happier, and the manufacture couldn’t be more fortunate. “When I walked back
into the building for the first time, it was like coming back home after a long
journey,” he explains. “I was so happy to see that the philosophy I put in place 18
years ago was still used and respected.”
haVing Fun Group, Dubuis has been “otherwise, I wouldn’t be here!
In 2005, Dubuis, one of the welcomed back as watchmaker I am proud to have my name
world’s greatest living watch- emeritus and as mentor to on the top of the building, and,
makers, was forced out of the the young watchmakers at as an old man, I love being
company that he founded in the manufacture. by his own surrounded by young people.
1995 by a partner, but with account, he is loving every I enjoy going to the manufac-
the company presently in minute. “of course I am hav- ture every week. It is great to
the hands of the richemont ing fun!” he says with a smile. see that these young teams
still need my old tricks!”
eXCeL and innoVate
from Dubuis’ perspective, little
has changed. “I still expect our
brand to achieve excellence,
respect the traditions and be
innovative,” he says. Innova-
tion is key for this watchmaker,
and his eponymous brand has
always been keen to surprise
the watchmaking commu-
nity. With 100 percent of its
production certified with the
Geneva seal, roger Dubuis
is a brand unlike any other.
“It’s so important to stay at
the forefront of innovation,
to always surprise both the
industry and our clients,”
Dubuis says.
one of the most welcome
surprises of 2013 came when
roger Dubuis, the brand, intro-
duced the hommage Collec-
tion, in recognition of the con-
tributions of roger Dubuis, the
man. “my favorite watch right
now is the hommage minute
repeater, for sure,” Dubuis is
quick to say. “It is a real tribute
Roger Dubuis
Hommage Minute
to fine watchmaking.” Limited
Repeater, $419,000 to just eight examples, the new
058
10:2013 | W a t C h J o u r n a L . C o m
minute repeater is equipped
with a flying tourbillon and
employs twin platinum micro-
rotors for automatic winding. It
is the only such watch to have
earned the Geneva seal.
another WorLd
Dubuis clearly remembers his
first watch project. “the first
watch I did at watchmaking
school was a pocket watch, the
outcome of four years of learn-
ing. I love this watch for what
it represents, and I still have
it.” he adds, “Love has been
the key to my success. When
you put love in your work, only
good can result. When I work
on watches, the moment I put
my magnifying glasses on,
I enter a new world of ultra-
miniature objects. I love being
in this other world.”
rogerdubuis.com
First LoVe
A man whose aspirations in
horology began with the ringing
of a church tower bell in a tiny
Swiss village, Roger Dubuis
knows about passion and dedica-
tion in watchmaking. “When I
was young, I was friends with the
local cobbler,” Dubuis recounts.
“This old man was also in charge
of ringing the church bells every
Sunday. So when he asked me if
I wanted to help him, I accepted.
That Sunday, I went to the
church, climbed up the stairs and
passed by the clock mechanism.
It was love at first sight. At that
exact moment, looking at this
huge clock movement, I promised
myself to do anything necessary
to become a watchmaker.”
 “It’s so Important
to stay at the
forefront of
InnovatIon, to
always surprIse
both the Industry
and our clIents.”
— roger dubuis

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how do watch companies
with great new designs year after year? I for one am constantly amazed and baffled
by the feats achieved by watch designers. So, when I was offered the chance to sit
down with Bruno Belamich, creative director for independent watch company
Bell & Ross, I jumped at the chance.
driVing Force
Since the brand’s inception,
Belamich has been the driving
force behind Bell & Ross’ unique
and forward-thinking designs,
under the direction of brand
president Carlos Rosillo. “I don’t
create designs alone,” Belamich
is quick to point out. “A designer
can’t work alone. I work with a
team. We work from a brief, and
we work to serve the enterprise.
A good designer has a vision,
but this vision must be coherent
with company strategy.”
Every new project starts with a
meeting that results in a design
brief. The brief is based, in part,
on information about the market.
However, Belamich says, “If you
only follow the market, you will
do exactly what the other brands
do. So, I don’t want to look at
other brands; if I do, it’s the
beginning of the end. We have
our vision of what our brand is.
Our culture is based on authen-
tic value for the people who use
our watches and for the people
who sell them. I come from a
functionalist background—from
the German way of utilitarian
design. I believe that if we can do
a good utilitarian watch, we can
do a very marketable watch.”
high-FlYing
inSPiration
This designer’s inspiration of-
ten emerges from stories—sto-
ries of real life, of aviation, the
military and more. “When we
worked with the French aircraft
+
Five Minutes with...
Bruno Belamich | on t he hi gh-flyi ng desi gns of bell & ross
text by: Keith W. StrandBerg
continue to come up
Belamich consulting with a watchmaker
“It’s not my phIlosophy to
change the channel just
to change the channel.”
company Dassault Aviation, for
example, they asked us to do a
celebration watch for the 50th
anniversary of the Falcon. We
thought about what the plane
was like, what the watches of
the 1960s were like, and then
we designed the limited edition
watch,” Belamich recounts. He
has been inspired by the vari-
ous instruments in airplanes
from all eras, but his favorite
Bell & Ross watch is the iconic
BR 01. “In this market, there are
so many watches, everything
ends up looking the same, but
you see the BR 01, and you
know it is something different.
I know that this watch justifies
060
10:2013 | W A t C h J o U r n A l . C o m
he says. “This stimulates me; as
with a musician, there is inter-
pretation. I have the notes of our
brand, but every year I have to
create a new composition.”
endleSS PoSSiBilitY
“I think the possibilities for re-
inventing watches are infinite,”
he adds. “When you look at old
catalogs, you see so many in-
credible ideas. With all the ma-
terial we have, and all the needs
of professionals, the potential
designs are limitless. It’s not my
philosophy to change the chan-
nel just to change the channel.
A good design is an evident
design, and when you find this,
it is a great pleasure.”
bellross.com
our position and our job.”
Unbridled creativity,
however, is often tamed by
technological constraints.
“Sometimes you would
like to have some tech-
nology you can’t have,”
Belamich explains. “For
me, that’s a motivator.
What is important is to be
coherent with your position-
ing and with what you want to
say.” For Belamich, the advent
of the annual Baselworld trade
show is the moment of truth,
when people view the year’s new
designs for the first time. “I like
Vintage WW1
the challenge and the competi- Régulateur,
tion that drives me to improve,” $22,000
 “A design sAys
mAny things,
And in this
cAtegory of
AviAtion,
there is A
lot to sAy.”
— Bruno Belamich
Bell & ross creative director

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Five Minutes with...
CARMEN CHAPLIN | A FI LM M AKER’S T RI BUT E FOR T HE GENERAT I ONS
TExT By: KEItH W. StRANdbERg

When cinema legend Charlie Chaplin settled in

Switzerland near the end of his life, the Swiss government presented him with a
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox watch engraved with the dedication: “Hommage du
gouvernement vaudois à Charlie Chaplin – 6 octobre 1953” (A tribute from the
government of the Canton of Vaud to Charlie Chaplin – October 6, 1953).

More recently, celebrating the
memory of the silent film star,
Jaeger-LeCoultre teamed up
with the actor’s granddaughter
Carmen Chaplin to produce a
short film called “A Time for
Everything,” which features her
grandfather’s watch and pays
tribute to time and heritage.
I caught up with the young
filmmaker while she was in Swit-
zerland recently to talk about
watches, her film, and what
inspires her.
SHORt bUt SWEEt
The inspiration for her short
film came from a recent experi-
ence she had with her family.
“My daughter, Uma, was only
three months old when I first
spoke with Jaeger-LeCoultre of
making a movie,” she remem-
bers. “My mother was visiting
me, and I felt for the first time
what I imagine she felt being
a mother; I felt the cycle of life
and that one day my daughter
would become a mother and
I would be a grandmother. I
wanted to express the feeling of
life’s never-ending circle.”
bEAUtY ANd
ELEgANCE
Carmen Chaplin has always
been intrigued by watches. Her
grandfather gave his watch to
her father, who gifted it to her
mother on their wedding day.
She remembers seeing Charlie’s
Jaeger-LeCoultre and thinking
how beautiful and elegant it
was. “I adore antique watches
because they are beautiful and
there is a certain irony about
them: they are objects that re-
cord time, and yet they are from
the past and will be handed
down to future generations,”
she says with a smile. “I had
a chance to visit the Jaeger-
LeCoultre Manufacture and the
Galerie du Patrimoine where
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerôme
you can admire a large selection Lambert with Chaplin at the
of antique watches. I would have manufacture
loved to spend all day there!”
COLLAbORAtINg creative people,” she adds.
WItH tIME “The only hard thing about
For Carmen, time is always on working now is that half my
her mind when filming. “One thoughts are always occupied
is very conscious of time when by my daughter when I have to
shooting because of the impor- be away from her. Luckily, she
tance of keeping up with the was a major part of the short
schedule,” she says. “I am con- film, and my boyfriend, who is
stantly making artistic decisions a wonderful father, was taking
based on the time available, but care of her when she wasn’t on
when everything is flowing, time the set.”
does disappear.” As a result of her collabora-
“Paying attention to small tion with Jaeger-LeCoultre,
things is an important part of Carmen Chaplain is now an
my success,” she continues. ambassador for the brand. “I
“All ambitious projects are am wearing a Grande Reverso
simply paying attention to one Lady Ultra Thin in pink gold,”
small thing after another, and she says, showing off her
Photos by Johann Sauty for Jaeger-LeCoultre

I try not to get distracted by watch proudly. “I really enjoy

the end result. Enjoying the
journey, to me, means that you
are always successful.”
“I love telling stories and
Charlie Chaplin’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox collaborating with other
it, because it reminds me that
Jaeger-LeCoultre and I have
done fun projects together.”
Cutline here
jaeger-lecoultre.com

062
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
“I felt the cycle of
lIfe and that one
day my daughter
would become a
mother and I would +
be a grandmother. I
wanted to express
the feelIng of
lIfe’s never - endIng
cIrcle.”
— Carmen Chaplin
filmmaker
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 Another Triumph in
German Engineering!

exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878

700 fifth ave. & 55th st. • new york • 212.397.9000 • open sundays 12 to 5
at the best addresses in germany,
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 066
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
As A pArAde of exotic vintAge cArs proceeded out of the Monte-Carlo Concours
d’Elegance and onto the streets of the famed Mediterranean port city to tool along in the warm
sunshine, crowds lined the roads, waving at the people in the cars, thinking they must be important.
Well, in my case, they were wrong. I was participating in the concours as a guest of the primary
sponsor, Swiss watch brand Eberhard & Co., and it was a fantastic experience, but, in my mind, the
amazing automobiles were the stars. I was just happy to be along for the ride.
The Monte-Carlo Concours d’Elegance is an exhibition and a celebration of fine vintage auto-
mobiles, not a rally or a race of any kind. However, the cars—which range from classic turn-of-the-
century machines all the way up to Jaguars, Ferraris and Porsches, and just about everything in
between—do compete for prizes that recognize the cars’ historical importance as well as the most
impressive preservation. Outside of the judging for these prizes, the promenade of vehicles is a
major highlight of the event, and it’s all about the enjoyment of the journey.

ON A ROLE
Lovers of fine automobiles often have a
deep appreciation for fine, mechanical
watches, and the tiny, hand-assembled
engines that can keep them running at
peak performance for many years longer
than even the best automobiles ever built.
The 24/7 operation of a mechanical watch
movement is equally impressive as that of
a Flat Six or a V12, and just as interesting.
It’s no wonder that Eberhard & Co. has an
interest in putting its name in front of car
enthusiasts in Monaco.
The brand is no stranger to vintage car
events. Eberhard & Co. has been partner-
ing with the Gran Premio Nuvolari, pro-
viding prizes and acting as timekeeper,
since 1990 and has been producing
watches in honor of Gran Premio name-
sake and 20th century Italian racing leg-
end Tazio Nuvolari since 1992. Eberhard
& Co. general manager Mario Peserico
explains, “Nuvolari is someone that really
represents the pioneering spirit of racing,
and he is someone from the past, a mem-
ory and a myth. We are proud because
we helped the Gran Premio to rebuild a
race that was held for four years in the
ent of
Best of Show and recipi
ize: a
the Eberhard & Co. Pr
00
1949 Alfa Romeo 6C 25
1950s and to do something to remember
Nuvolari. The Gran Premio is now one of
the most important events in the world
for vintage cars. We have been a sponsor
since the very beginning, and this is now
the 23rd year of the race.”
The relationship with the Grand Premio
de Nuvolari led Eberhard to work with other
car events, like the Monte-Carlo Concours
d’Elegance and others. “We want to build
something together. This year, 2013, is the
first year we have been involved with the
Concours, and I think the event was really
nice,” says Peserico. “The level of the cars
was fantastic, the location in Monaco was
perfect, and the parade was really enjoyable,
with a lot of people turning out to see it.”
During the Concours d’Elegance,
Eberhard acts as a main sponsor of the
Monte-Carlo event, and Peserico serves on
the panel of judges. Winning car owners
receive special Eberhard timepieces. Ac-
cording to Peserico, the sponsorship is a
big win for his brand. “I think our involve-
ment with classic car events has brought
us notoriety in this world,” Peserico says.
“When you produce only 16,000 pieces
a year, as Eberhard & Co. does, you don’t
look for worldwide notoriety, you look
to be known within your target, and this
event certainly achieves that for us.”
WINNERS’
FULL INJECTION CIRCLE
In conjunction with its classic car event PRIX CATÉGORIE A - GT CARS 
sponsorships, Eberhard often designs and Alfa Roméo 6C2500 1949 
produces special limited edition watches Corrado Lopresto
related to the events. During this year’s
PRIX CATÉGORIE B -
Monte-Carlo event, Eberhard presented the
CABRIOLET DES ANNÉES 50 
Chrono4 Géant Full Injection. The Chrono4
Jaguar XK 120 1955 
has long been one of Eberhard’s most iconic
Penny Palmano
watches, featuring a unique dial layout with
four subdials (for chronograph minutes,
PRIX CATÉGORIE C - AVANT GUERRE
chronograph hours, 24-hour time display and
Citroën Traction Coupé 1936
small seconds) arranged horizontally across
Laurence and Thierry Bouchot
the bottom of the dial.
The new variation on this theme fea-
PRIX CATÉGORIE D - PRIX LALIQUE
tures a 46-mm steel case, which undergoes ORIGINALITÉ ET CRÉATIVITÉ
a special low temperature carbon diffusion Cisitalia 202 1947
treatment that hardens and strengthens Giuliano Bensi
the steel. The watch uses an automatic
PRIX CATÉGORIE E -
VOITURES HISTORIQUES ET VITESSE
Salmson GSC 1926
Eberhard & Co.'s Camille Bourges
Chrono4 Géant PRIX CATÉGORIE F -
Full Injection VÉHICULE EN PARFAIT ÉTAT D’ORIGINE,
NON RESTAURÉ
Alfa 1750 C 1931
André Binda
BEST OF SHOW - PRIX EBERHARD & CO.
Alfa Roméo 6C 2500 1949
Corrado Lopresto
069
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
 Special Edition Traversetolo chronograph movement, based on ETA
Passione Engadina 2894. Water resistant to 200 meters, the
Full Injection comes on a sculpted rubber
strap. Production is limited to 500 exam-
ples, with a retail price of around $12,000.

passione
engadina MONACO MAGIC
Following the Monaco Concours The reaction to this model in the Eberhard
d’Elegance, Eberhard & Co. be- booth at the concours was immediate,
came the main sponsor of Passione strong and positive. “The booth location
was perfect; everyone who came to the
Engadina, an international vintage
Concours had to enter through our booth,
car rally exclusively for Italian which meant great exposure,” Peserico
cars made before 1983. The says. “The people who stopped to talk
event took place in St. Moritz about the watches were exactly who
in August and featured routes we thought they would be. They
that take drivers through the were passionate about watches and
they wanted to know about the tech-
Swiss Alps.
nical aspects.”
“We are a niche brand,” he concludes.
“We want to keep this particularity of
being a brand that is not present every-
where, not overexposed. We want to re-
main something that is a choice. We like
to be involved with high-profile events
like this, and we want to be involved with
great collectors and with people who
enjoy nice things, like vintage cars and
fine watches.” And Monaco has it all.

eberhard-co-watches.ch

070
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
AUTHORIZED DEALERS

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deck goes here
text by tk
 ILLE
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ARE SKULL MOTIF WATCHES FASHION-INSPIRED RM 52-01 TouRbillon

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 o s
Cvst
Challenge Jet liner Skull

A stylized skull motif in bright rhodium and diamonds decorates the dial
of the Cvstos Jet Liner Skull, available in 53.7-mm and 59-mm tonneau-
shaped steel cases. Suspended between front and back sapphire crystals
is the skeletonized CVS350 automatic movement with 25 jewels
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$32,300, 212.463.7045, cvstos.com

 st rom
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As much a masterpiece of metalwork as it is of tradi-

tional Swiss watchmaking, the hand-finished limited
edition Agonium Memento Mori is offered in silver,
palladium, rose gold or platinum. The sculpted 47-mm
case holds an inner case, which, in turn, holds an ETA
2824 automatic movement. The dial, in bone white or
black, borrows elements from London’s Big Ben and
Bern’s Zytglogge. A skull-embellished buckle secures
the hornback alligator strap.

From CHF 9,999, 41.32.333.1222, stromwatch.ch

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turbine toxic

This special edition of Perrelet’s

Turbine model features a
diamond-set skull motif dial
behind a free-spinning 12-blade
black rotor. Central hands indicate
hours, minutes and seconds. The
watch’s automatic movement is
wound by a second rotor at the
back. The 50-mm stainless steel
case is DLC-treated and fitted
with a black rubber strap.

$8,600, 954.937.9180,
perrelet.com

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 bel
l&
ro
ss
BR 01 AiRBoRne ii

Paying tribute to the death-defying US Airborne divisions

of World War II, which adopted a skull and crossbones
logo to intimidate the enemy, Bell & Ross fashions a
bezel and four screw heads into a form resembling the
military insignia. Sword-shaped hands add to the effect.
The 46-mm steel case has an aged patina and comes
fitted with a distressed brown leather strap.

$6,100, 888.307.7887, bellross.com

l er
M ul
Franck

Gothique

This watch presses a skull and crossbones motif into

service in place of the 9 on its audacious dial, marked
with stretched Roman numerals. The large Cintrée
Curvex case—39.6 mm wide and 55.4 mm in length—
holds an automatic-winding FM 0800 movement,
finished with Côtes de Genève engraving, hand bevel-
ing, satin finishing and partial rhodium plating for a
bicolor effect. The PVD-treated white gold case is set
with 299 black diamonds, totaling 4.45 carats.

$45,900, 212.463.8898, franckmullerusa.com

 o t
H u bl Skull Bang

Playful rebellion characterizes the all-black Skull Bang watch, a numbered limited edition
of 100 pieces in a 45-mm satin-finished ceramic case. The dial art is a combination of
a galvanic black sunburst background and a black transfer skull motif. Completing the
time display, the black galvanic hands are faceted, diamond-polished and skeletonized.
Beneath the dial, an HUB 1112 automatic movement powers the time and date functions.

$12,000, 800.536.0636, hublot.ch

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 Chaos automatiC

teg r appa Designed in collaboration with Sylvester

Mon Stallone, the Montegrappa Chaos Collection

includes this automatic watch with a sculpted
silver case in an elaborate serpent and skull
design. Hand-applied enamel adds a bit of
intense color to the massive case, which mea-
sures 43 mm by 54 mm. An automatic ETA 2824
drives the time and date displays, and the two-
level dial features a guilloché center, applied
Roman numerals and luminous hands.

$6,400, 800.741.0005, montegrappa.com

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 Central Chronograph
limited//edition

collection: Hydroscaph
..................................................................................................................................
created by: Gerald Clerc
.................................................................................................................................
case//dlc steel 103 elements/
locking rotating bezel/
water resistant 500 m/
movement//automatic chronograph/
hand-crafted in switzerland/
please call 609-375-2146
or visit clercwatches.com
 Rom
a i
R ome
DIa De LoS MUerToS

In the tradition of the holiday for which

it’s named, Romain Jerome expands
its collection of skull-themed watches
with variations reflecting lighthearted
irony. Five new gem-set models are the
latest offerings. White diamonds, black
sapphires and black spinels combine
and recombine in dial and case embel-
lishments. Each variant has a 46-mm
PVD-coated steel case and uses a
self-winding mechanical movement,
Caliber RJ001-A.

$21,450–$42,950, 813.926.3367,
romainjerome.com

k e-maRin
Spea

MIDNIGHT SKULL

Handcarved brass is plated with silver

and then antiqued to create the highly
detailed dial decoration of this one-of-
a-kind piece by Speake-Marin. Black
Super-LumiNova fills the background
of the dial and glows to highlight the
contours of the skulls at night. Inside
the 42-mm Piccadilly-style steel case,
an automatic mechanical Caliber
FW2012 drives the skeletonized hands
of the time display.

CHF 18,000, 41.21.825.5069,

speake-marin.com

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BALL Watch USA www.ballwatch.com Tel: 727-896-4278
Bovet's Virtuoso Tourbillon
in rose gold, from $270,000

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Manufacturing meets
finishing meets innovatio�
at th� house of Bove�

by keith w. strandberg

W ith its own manufacture in the swiss Jura,

producing and assembling some of the world’s most
complicated in-house movements and making its own
balance springs—an achievement that only a handful of compa-
nies in the watch industry can claim—Bovet Fleurier is a rare watch
company indeed. Beyond mechanics, Bovet pays acute attention to
the finishing and decoration of individual components. And beyond that,
Bovet carries on the tradition of its founder through continuing innova-
tion within the framework of heritage-honoring designs. According to
owner operator Pascal Raffy, all three of these elements are absolute ne-
cessities if Bovet is going to thrive and fulfill its mission of perpetuating
traditional watchmaking skills.
“My sol� aim has always been t� consolidate our
expertis� and to pass on ou� passion for th�
watchmaking arts t� futur� generations.” —Pascal Raffy

By choice and by design, Bovet is a

fiercely independent and self-reliant
manufacture. Raffy explains, “When I
became sole owner of Bovet in 2001, it
was clear that there was only one rightful
place for such a legend, and that is the
place it has always occupied; it has always
been a house manufacturing exceptional
timepieces embellished by the sophistica-
tion of their decoration. Respect for the
history of the House of Bovet and for the
unrivalled expertise of its craftsmen are
fundamental values that have sustained
the manufacture for many decades—some
of them difficult—and they guarantee that
it will prosper and perpetuate traditional
watchmaking skills. My sole aim has
always been to consolidate our exper-
tise and to pass on our passion for the
watchmaking arts to future generations,
safeguarding and nurturing skills and
traditions that have been threatened by
industrialization and globalization.”

the specialist’s
specialist
Some companies in the watch industry
specialize in design. Others become expert
at manufacturing movements. Other com-
panies concentrate on high complications.
Others focus on high-level finishing. Still
others pride themselves on their decora-
tive techniques, including miniature paint-
ing and enameling. Bovet does it all. The
comprehensive approach to watchmaking
is part of its heritage. “Edouard Bovet

Owner Pascal Raffy, fine dial finishing and hairspring work at Bovet's manufacture, Dimier 1738
 Bovet's Amadeo Amadeo Skeleton
Tourbillon in rose gold, from $224,300

Outposts
Inroads
And

SIgnalIng the Importance

of the US market, Bovet is
opening its first US boutique this
fall at 50 Central Park South in New
York City. It is the fourth Bovet bou-
tique worldwide, following openings in
Moscow, Baku and Berlin. Taking a
space on the ground floor of the iconic
Ritz-Carlton Hotel, opposite Central
Park, the Bovet 1822 boutique will fea-
ture a brand new collection of time-
pieces, specifically designed for this
shop and unavailable anywhere else.
This limited edition of 50 timepieces
will feature commemorative engraving
celebrating the opening. “I am proud to bring
the House of Bovet 1822 to New York, where
collectors will be able to explore and discover
these exceptional creations. I warmly thank
Bovet’s long-time partners Jeffrey Khalaf
and Michael Rosenberg of the Timepiece
Collection for their invaluable contribu-
tion to this endeavor,” says Bovet’s owner
Pascal Raffy. “The US market occupies a spe-
cial place in our hearts because it is one of our
historical markets and because, every day, we
see a deeper appreciation of our timepieces
among American collectors.”

087
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
“The most beautiful challeng�
will als� always remain
th� human dimension of
ou� success.” —Pascal Raffy

is recognized for having joined together

chronometric performance and the decora-
tive arts like no one else before him, and this
continues to be proven today by the appeal, Nineteenth-century Mille
for collectors, of Bovet’s 19th century pocket Fleurs pocket watch by Bovet
watches,” explains Raffy. “Bovet has held
a unique place in the world of fine watch-
making since 1822 because we continue to
cultivate the excellence that characterizes the
timepieces we manufacture.”
Raffy is quick to emphasize the virtuos-
ity of Bovet’s artisans, who work in ateliers
spread throughout the watchmaking region.
Precision tourbillon movements are manufac-
tured at Bovet’s wholly-owned Dimier facility
in Tramelan, Switzerland. The assembly and
regulation of new timepieces takes place in a
converted medieval fortification—the Bovet
Castle—in Môtiers, Switzerland. And only
the most accomplished artisans work on
the one-of-a-kind miniature paintings
and the other incredible enamel work,
for which Bovet is so well known.

virtuosity
on display
All that Bovet does is on full display
in the newly introduced Amadeo®
Virtuoso. The Virtuoso is a five-day
tourbillon with jumping hour display,
retrograde minutes and power reserve
indicator. On the reverse side, a sec-
ond dial displays the time in the usual
manner, via hours and minutes hands.
These twin time displays, positioned on
opposite sides of the movement—as well
as opposite ends of a single axis—require
a special technique, known as reverse hand
fitting, and Bovet achieves it with aplomb.
The majority of the 44-mm timepiece
is open, so the wearer can clearly see the
spinning tourbillon and other inner work-
ings of the timepiece, all of which exhibit
an incredibly high level of finishing. “This
beautifully hand-engraved movement is
only fixed to the inner rim of the case by the
stem of the crown and two clamp points at 3

088
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
 the pure essentials of watchmaking,
elevated to the level of art.
© 2013 SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION

GRAND SEIKO. With our unique Spron* 530 alloy for the mainspring, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 delivers precision of -3 to +5 seconds a day with
a power reserve of 55 hours. It is a masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship from Grand Seiko, where the pure essentials of watchmaking are elevated to
the level of art. grand-seiko.com

PROGRESS TO SEIKO
* Spron is a reg ist ered t rademark of Seiko Inst rument s Inc. 
 The Fleurier Quality
Foundation–certified Grand
Complication Rising Star,
a unique piece
and 9, which enhances the impression that
this delicate movement is floating above
the tourbillon cage inside the case,” Raffy
details. Another special feature of this
reversible timepiece has to do with
symmetry. “In order to reflect the
original design of a 19th centu-
ry pocket watch, the Virtuoso
timepiece has a new case,
of which both front and
back sapphire crystals are
dome-shaped,” says Raffy.
Additionally, the Virtuoso
is fitted with the Amadeo®
convertible system, allowing
the timepiece to be worn
on the wrist, displayed as a
table clock or attached to a
chain as a pocket watch.
achievement
Virtuoso and challenge
Tourbillon Another reversible convert-
unique piece with ible piece using the Amadeo®
miniature Madonna system is especially noteworthy
and Child painting since it has recently become the
on the reverse side, first Bovet timepiece to be certi-
price upon request
fied by the Fleurier Quality Founda-
tion. The Bovet Grand Complication
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Rising Star—manufactured entirely in Bovet’s
Dimier facility—is a tourbillon with seven-
day power reserve and two independent
time zone displays with day/night indica-
tion. Certification by the Fleurier Quality
Foundation requires that the movement
be COSC-certified and that the completed
timepiece passes a battery of chronometry
and reliability tests. The timepiece must also
be 100 percent Swiss-made and impeccably
finished and decorated.
With its mastery of all of these elements,
Bovet is well positioned to survive the
slings and arrows of another 191 years, as
a strong, independent house. And as it
does so, it will be because of the talented
individuals who dedicate themselves to
Bovet’s mission. “Knowing that true luxury
requires a lot of passion, inspiration, time
and skill, our vision is to be able to make all
of our movements in house, to succeed in
that beautiful challenge every day, and to
create a perfect harmony of understanding
between our engineers, our watchmakers
and our craftsmen,” Raffy says. “The most
beautiful challenge will also always remain
the human dimension of our success.”
bovet.com
MADe
MADE
I N D U S T R I A L I Z eE D W A T C hH P R O D U C T I O N C O M eE S T O D eE T R O I T , U S A

In

AMeRICA
AMERICA
The Golden AGe of AmericAn industriAl wAtch production stretched
from the lAte 19th century throuGh the eArly 20th century.
Back then, watch production in America was the envy of the world, including the Swiss. By succeeding at industrializing fine watch production, Amer-
ican companies like Hamilton, Waltham, Elgin, E. Howard and others were able to offer quality timepieces to the masses for the first time in history.
Of course, that was a long time ago, and, today, most production for American watch brands has moved to other countries, except for a handful of
small, handmade concerns, including RGM, Devon Works, Towson and Bozeman—that is, until Shinola came on the scene. Introduced to consum-
ers earlier this year, Shinola is a partnership between Bedrock Manufacturing (headed up by Tom Kartsotis of Fossil fame) and Ronda, a well-known
Swiss movement manufacture. The concept is to assemble and case Ronda quartz movements in America, adding as much American industrial
romance and style as possible along the way. Shinola is now up and running with volume production based in, of all places, Detroit, Michigan.

by Keith W. Strandberg
 The 47-mm Shinola Runwell, $600
093
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
Motors For the Wrist
But why set up shop in Detroit where DecaDes of
economic erosion have notably taken their toll? “‘Built in Detroit’ is on the caseback of each
“Part of picking Detroit was that we were as-
sembling the engine of the watch, and what bet-
of our watches, and I think people will
ter place to do that than in the traditional heart
of the auto industry, where so many engines
make a connection with it.”
have been produced?” says Heath Carr, CEO, —heath carr
Bedrock Manufacturing. “We knew we wanted
to make our products in the USA, and now
we have just over 25 people working in the
Detroit factory and the capacity to assemble
over 500,000 watches a year.”

The Runwell's
numbered caseback

Ronda’s main role in the project is to

help set up the factory in Detroit and
train the employees, as well as to pro-
vide the movement parts. According to
Carr, Ronda ships all the components to
Detroit, where the watches are assembled,
cased and quality controlled. “The Shinola
brand needed to have a differentiator, and having
a movement that was assembled in Switzerland or
Asia wasn’t going to be different enough,” Carr ex-
plains. “‘Built in Detroit’ is on the caseback of each
of our watches, and I think people will make a con-
nection with it.” Shinola products are also marked
with a yellow lightning bolt, the brand’s symbol of
high quality. “Every time we see it, and every time
our partners see it, it’s a reminder to focus on the
quality of the product,” Carr adds.

The 36-mm Gomelsky, $495 The 34-mm Birdy, $475

Photos by tk
 Runwell bicycle,
$2,950

Shinola’s factory is housed in Detroit’s his- Shinola certainly has a real chance to succeed.
torical Argonaut building, originally a Gm For my part, I think a visit to Detroit is in order. I
facility that is now part of the College for Cre- want to witness firsthand the return of American
ative Studies. In a derivative nod to this history, industrial watch manufacturing.
Shinola’s first movement has been named the
Argonite-1069. Workers all come from the local shinola.com
community, and many of their photos and stories
are highlighted on the company’s website. Home-
town connections like these are touted all across
the brand’s communications.

Watches and More

Popular
Vernacular
the first watCH ColleCtion to debut was tHe
limited edition runwell, a vintage-inspired
three-hand timepiece with a small subdial for the
a HouseHold name, sHinola,
running seconds. This watch has already sold out. an a meriCan-made sH oe
The range currently includes second-generation polisH, was so popular
Runwell watches in four sizes. Other collections
Leather iPad envelope, $165 in tHe early 1900s tHat it
include the cushion-shaped Brakeman and the
feminine Gomelsky and Birdy models. Prices for beCame part of tHe ameriC an
Shinola watches range from $500 to $800, and all of lexiC on, witH tHe pHrase
the watches will have quartz movements—at least
to start. Carr isn’t ruling out mechanical watches
“Doesn’t know sh*t
as a future possibility, but he acknowledges the from Shinola” Commonly
leap in difficulty that making mechanical watches employed in desCribing
on an industrial scale in the USA would repre-
stupidity. for a more
sent. meanwhile, in addition to watches, Shinola
is making and marketing bicycles, leather goods Closely watCH-related bit
and journals, using American materials and know- of vernaCular serving a
how. “We want to be in many different categories,”
similar purpose, tHere’s
says Carr. “We decided to tackle the most difficult
ones, watches and bikes, first.” always, “He doesn’t
Keep an eye on Shinola. With great looking know whether to scratch
designs, a sold-out first watch collection and per-
sonalities like Kartsotis and Carr behind the idea,
his watch or wind his ass.”
The 47-mm Runwell, $550

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GLOBAL
AMBITIONS
Keeping the world on your wrist is
the aim of these clever world time watches

By Meehna goldsMith

T
hese days, it’s accepted that the
world has 24 standard time zones. But
it wasn’t always this way. Before the rise of
industrialization, a universal time reference
wasn’t that important. Localities determined
time for themselves by observing the sun’s
zenith at noon. However, with the rise of the
American railroads at the end of the 19th century,
coordinating time became crucial. And now that
long-distance travel is commonplace and many busi-
nesses have gone global, the need for tracking world-
wide time is greater than ever. Watchmakers are con-
tinually coming up with creative methods for displaying
world time. And the range of currently available op-
tions illustrates a variety of different strategies for do-
ing this. What’s wonderful about the world time func-
tion is not only its practicality but also its ability to
push watchmakers to ever more clever compositions.

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 Montblanc
TimeWalker World-Time
HemispHeres

With two specialized dial op-

tions—one depicting the globe
from the North Pole and the
other from the South Pole—and
a corresponding city ring marked
with the names of major cities
in the relevant hemisphere, this
model indicates time around the
globe. Only the 24-hour ring near
the center of the dial rotates—clock-
wise in the Northern Hemisphere watch
and counterclockwise in the Southern
Hemisphere watch. Each watch’s caseback
is marked with the place names for the op-
posite hemisphere.
$5,700 800.995.4810,
montblanc.com
 TissoT
Heritage Navigator automatic
160tH aNNiversary

Fixed 12-hour and 24-hour dials form

concentric rings around a crown-
controlled rotating city index in Tissot’s
new Heritage Navigator watches. The
automatic mechanical Caliber 2893-3
is COSC-certified and powers the time
display with precision. The stainless
steel case is 43-mm in diameter, and
the black or silver dial features lumi-
nous hands and luminous dots at the
four cardinal positions.
$1,650, 800.284.7768, tissot.ch

WORLD AT A GLANCE
The inTernaTional Time sysTem broughT consisTency To world Time, but keeping track of those dif-
ferent time zones wasn’t easy. in the 1930s, watchmaker Louis cottier patented an ingenious system that shows
aLL the different time zones at a gLance and is stiLL in use today. the LocaL time is read in the usuaL manner on
a diaL with centraL hours and minutes hands, whiLe a ring of cities circLing the periphery of the diaL moves
around a concentric 24-hour scaLe to simuLtaneousLy indicate the hour and whether it’s day or night in those
pLaces. in the years since, numerous makers have successfuLLy empLoyed this strategy in their watches.

Vacheron consTanTin
PatrimoNy traditioNNelle World time

Vacheron Constantin’s global timekeeping strategy makes

allowances for many of the places in the world with time
zones that are offset by fractions of an hour. A total of
37 distinct time zones are recognized on the dial of the
Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time. For simplicity, all the
world time functions of the watch’s patented automatic
Caliber 2460 WT adjust simultaneously via the crown.
The watch has earned Geneva Hallmark certification.
$48,900, 800.284.7768, tissot.ch

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
Patek PhiliPPe
World Time ref. 5130

The classic 39.5-mm World Time watch from Patek Philippe, available in white
gold or rose gold, uses self-winding Caliber 240 HU with Gyromax balance
and 48-hour power reserve to drive its world time display. When moving from
time zone to time zone, pressing the pushbutton on the left caseside adjusts
all the relevant indications at once; once the city corresponding to your desti-
nation time zone reaches the top of the dial, setting is complete. The minutes
hand continues to run without interruption during adjustment.
$72,000, 212.218.1240, patek.com

Girard-PerreGaux
Traveller WW.Tc

Simplicity of operation is the goal of the new

Traveller ww.tc by Girard-Perregaux. A screw-
down, three-position crown adjusts all the time
and date functions: setting the city index, the
date, the hours, the minutes, and the 24-hour
day/night ring. A glance at the dial reveals the
time in 24 time zones, keyed to major cities. A
12-hour chronograph rounds out
the list of useful functions.
$16,000, 877.846.3447,
girard-perregaux.com
USER INTERFACE
Travelers are ofTen primarily concerned wiTh The Time in Two zones: home time and
destination time. a watch with two separate subdials, each displaying hours and minutes in one of these
locations, and an adjustable reference city ring takes this into account and simplifies readout.

Maurice
Lacroix
Masterpiece
WorldtiMer

Four central hands indicate

local hours, minutes and sec-
onds plus the hour in a remote
time zone in Maurice Lacroix’s
new world time watch. Local hours
are quickly adjusted via the pushbut-
ton. A fixed city disc at the perimeter
of the dial is a key to time differences
around the world. The watch is produced
in two versions: one depicting the Western
Hemisphere on its guilloché center and the
other with a map of the Eastern Hemisphere
on a sun-brushed center.
$4,800, 609.750.8800, mauricelacroix.com
 RefeRence Time
Sir Sandford fleming, a Scottish-born Canadian
inventor and engineer, is credited as being one of the
most influential advocates of standardizing the world’s
time zones. As part of the 1884 International Meridian
Conference held in Washington, DC, he was instrumen-
tal in helping to establish an international time system.
The conference determined that the prime meridian
for longitude, and therefore timekeeping, would pass
through Great Britain’s Greenwich Observatory. This
observatory was chosen because it was known for high-
quality data and because the British shipping industry,
the largest in the world, used the Greenwich Meridian as
its time reference.

VogArd
DaTeZoner PiLoT

Marking its 10th anniversary, Vogard presents a special

edition Datezoner Pilot, which combines big date, time
zone and chronograph functions. Both the time zone and
the date are adjusted via the turning bezel, and a patented
mechanism synchronizes these functions so that the date
adjusts automatically when a time zone adjustment cross-
es the dateline. World cities are indicated on the bezel by
their IATA airport codes, with the outer codes adjusted for
daylight saving time. Production is limited to 24 pieces.
$17,500, 203.778.0518, vogard.com

A. LAnge & Söhne

Lange 1 Time Zone

The best features of dual time and world time watches

come together in the easy-to-use Lange 1 Time Zone,
featuring the new manufacture Caliber L031.1. A main
dial and a subdial display local hours and minutes and
hours and minutes in a remote time zone, respectively.
A pushbutton adjusts the remote hours display and
the city ring at the same time. A special synchronization
mechanism switches the time displayed by the main dial with
the time displayed by the subdial, simplifying timekeeping
both en route and upon arrival at your destination.
$50,100, 800.408.8147, alange-soehne.com

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . c o m
Global
PositioninG
Longitude equaLs time because for every 15° travelled
eastward, local time moves ahead one hour and, conversely,
for every 15° travelled westward, time rolls back by one hour.
In order to figure out one’s position en route, the difference
between two reference times must be known. Determining
longitude is essential for navigating the seas. But until John
Harrison, a working-class joiner, solved the problem of deter-
mining longitude at sea by constructing a seaworthy clock,
boats could easily stray off course without realizing it. Harrison
stumped all the best minds of the day and was ultimately
awarded a £20,000 prize, the equivalent of millions today.

Jacob & co.

Epic SF24

The heart of this new world time watch from Jacob & Co.
is the Caliber 2220 mechanical movement, which uses
an exclusive SF24 module to clearly display the hour in
any of 24 world cities on demand. The 45-mm case is
crafted of 18-karat 5N red gold. The watch is also offered
in titanium and white gold versions.
$81,000–$103,000, 212.888.2330, jacobandco.com

Greubel Forsey
GMT 5N

Greubel Forsey’s innovative display of universal

time uses a three-dimensional representation of the
globe, which makes a complete counterclockwise
revolution every 24 hours, replicating the rotation
of the Earth. Real-time positioning of the continents
affords an intuitive view of global time, and a rotat-
ing city disc on the back of the movement indicates
the hour in 24 time zones and accounts for daylight
saving time in zones where it applies. The watch’s
Caliber GF05 features a 24-second inclined
tourbillon and a power reserve indicator.
$595,000, 212.221.8041, greubelforsey.com

104
104
12:2011
10:2013 | | W
WAATTCCH
HJJO
OUURRNNAALL. C
. CO
Omm
Tony Kanaan Series No. 1146: 44mm asymmetrical black PVD case with carbon fiber inlay sides, polished ceramic bezel, www.luminox.com
black PVD crown and pushers, antireflective sapphire crystal, integrated genuine leather strap with signature buckle, created
in Tony Kanaan’s signature colors, water resistant to 100 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. facebook.com/Luminox
Preferred timepiece of Indy 500 Champion Race Driver Tony Kanaan.
Limited Edition of 999 pieces.
 Jaeger-LeCouLtre
DuomèTrE uniquE TrAvEl TimE

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest world time innovation allows

the user to adjust the time in the travel time zone to the
nearest minute, making it perfectly accurate in any lo-
cation, regardless of time zone offsets of fractions of
an hour. The watch’s two time displays share a regu-
lating organ but have independent energy sources,
each with a 50-hour power reserve, indicated on the
dial. A world time disc with day/night indication is
positioned at 6. This watch is available only at the
brand’s Place Vendôme boutique in Paris.
€33,100, 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Citizen
Eco-DrivE WorlD TimE A-T

The newest light-powered world timer from Citizen uses

atomic-clock synchronization for effortless accuracy
around the globe. A subdial at 6 displays time in any
one of the 26 zones denoted on the watch’s city ring.
Pressing the watch’s two pushbuttons at the same time
switches the time on the main dial with the time on
the subdial. The watch’s long list of additional features
includes perpetual calendar functions, alarm and power
reserve indicator.
$575, 800.321.3173, citizenwatch.com

LocaL Time
There were more Than 300 local sun-based times prior to 1883, when a system that divided the States into four time zones was adopted.
Photos by tk

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
 Advanced winding technology, for your fine watches.

SIENA SERIES 1 I 2 I 3

800.800.4436 View the entire Orbita Luxury Collection at orbita.com

MADE IN USA
 Tudor, The sisTer brand of waTch jug-
gernauT rolex, is a well-known name in
The waTch indusTry. A successful brand in its
own right, Tudor has been thriving in markets like
China but has been absent from the US for the past
17 years, effectively leaving this market to Rolex.
Now all of that is changing.
Tudor has often been overshadowed by the
strength of the bigger and better-known Rolex.
And that’s not too surprising considering
that, in the early years, Tudor used Rolex
movements, Rolex cases and almost-
Rolex designs, fueling a brand
identity crisis. Recently, how-
ever, Tudor has been work-
ing hard to change that
perception—differen-
tiating itself from
Rolex with its
own move-
ments,

A GreAt
ComebaCk
AFTER A 17-YEAR ABSENCE, TUDOR RETURNS TO THE USA

designs
and market-
ing campaign.
And this year,
Tudor is finally re-
turning to the US market.

ANCIENT HISTORY
Tudor was launched in 1946 by
Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf with
By Keith W. StrandBerg the mission of offering a more affordable
choice. Explaining the strategy, Wilsdorf
wrote: “For some years now, I have been consider-
ing the idea of making a watch that our agents could
sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and
yet one that would attain the standards of dependability
for which Rolex are famous. I decided to form a separate
company, with the object of making and marketing this
new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company.”

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m

The Fastrider Black Shield, $4,925
The first watch introduced by the new
brand was the Tudor Oyster, followed
by the Tudor Oyster Prince, launched
in 1952. In the 1960s, Tudor focused
on stylish watches with sports-oriented
technical qualities, including watches
for diving and for motorsports. In its ad-
vertising campaigns, Tudor used real-
world people—rescue divers, mining
engineers and rally drivers—to tout its
watches’ utility and features.
MODERN HISTORY
Only recently has the brand begun to
step out from under the shadow of Rolex,
and, as a result, it has been taking the
world by storm, quickly winning fans
around the globe. The brand’s partner-
ship with Porsche Motorsport in 2009
helped to put Tudor on the radar in the
international watch community. In 2011,
Tudor announced a new sports-world as-
sociation when it became the timing part-
ner of Italian motorcycle maker Ducati,
and the brand continues to mine this
partnership with the Fastrider Collection.
The Tudor Fastrider Black Shield is
the latest of the Ducati offerings from
Tudor. The 42-mm high-tech ceramic
Tudor announced a new sports-world association
when it became the timing partner of Italian
motorcycle maker Ducati.
chronograph fea- 45-minute totalizer. The bidirectional
tures monobloc rotating bezel can be pressed into ser-
case construction vice as a second time zone display. The
with a screw-down steel case has a screw-down crown and
crown and is water- screw-down pushers for water resistance
resistant to 150 me- to 150 meters. The matching steel brace-
ters. Its self-winding let is interchangeable with an included
Tudor Caliber 7753 fabric strap.
features rapid date cor- In addition to these, Tudor offers the
rection and chronograph Grantour Collection, celebrating the
totalizers for minutes and brand’s partnership with the FIA World
hours. A black-on-black ta- Endurance Championship, the Pelagos
chymetric scale marks the dive watch, water resistant to 500 me-
Design
bezel. The watch is created in ters, and, for women, the Clair de Rose
Detail: Tail and
black with luminous red dial ele- and Glamour Collections—all new and brake lights are
ments, echoing the colors of the all Tudor. Welcome back to the USA, strips of LEDs that
iconic Italian brand that it hon- Tudor, where there is always room for follow the line of
ors, and also in black with lumi- great new watches. the underseat
nous bronze hands and markers. panel, keeping the
tudorwatch.com bike's external
FUTURE PROSPECTS lines clean.
As Tudor approaches what looks to be an
exciting future, the brand knows it doesn’t
make sense to neglect the past or the loyal
customers who have been buying Tudor +
happily for decades. Enter the Heritage
Collection, a part of Tudor’s line created
to pay homage to the brand’s long history,
but which reinvents the classic sports-ori-
ented pieces at the same time.
Introduced last year, the Heritage
Black Bay, a water-worthy timepiece with
burgundy-colored rotating bezel and a
200-meter water-resistance rating, be-
came an instant bestseller for the brand.
The newer Tudor Heritage Chrono
Blue is a vintage-look chronograph
based on a 1973 model, known to
collectors as the Montecarlo.
The Chrono Blue updates this
beautiful watch without sacri-
ficing its vintage appeal.
At 42 mm, the new watch
is 2 mm larger in diameter
than the 1973 original and ap-
plies a bit of modern opaline
gray to the watch’s blue and
orange graphic palette. The self-
winding Tudor Caliber 2892 has
date function, small seconds and an
added chronograph mechanism with
Photos by
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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
BLACK HORSE
To accompany The
launch of The Tudor
fasTrider Black shield
waTch, Tudor and ducaTi
collaBoraTed To creaTe
a one-of-a-kind diavel
carBon moTorcycle wiTh assembling the Tudor fastrider Black shield
an overall maTTe Black
finish and red high-
lighTing on some of The
Bike’s deTails. BoTh The
fasTrider waTch and The Tudor used real-world people—rescue divers,
diavel Bike are mechani- mining engineers and rally drivers—
cal marvels exuding ex- to tout its watches’ utility and features.
Treme sTrengTh.

+
DRIllING DOwN:
Machine-finished
forged aluminium
wheels reduce the
bike's dry weight
to 452 lb.

HIGH PERFORMANCE:
The Diavel pairs a muscular
silhouette with a pure-bred
competition motor.
 P A T E K PH I L I P P E SH O W C A S E S R A R E
H A N D C R A F T S W I T H TH E SK Y M O O N

Art
T O U R B I L L O N R E F . 6 00 2

BY LAURIE KAHLE

“It’s absolute genIus work,” says our

guide, Karin Deléchat, as she points out the
exquisite 17th- and 18th-century enamel timepieces
in the historical collection of Geneva’s Patek
Philippe museum. The museum, which opened
in 2001, houses the world’s ultimate watch col-
lection, tracing the evolution of Patek Philippe
as well as watchmaking in general. Since early
timepieces were extremely inaccurate, watches
were often treated as objets d’art, lavishly
embellished with engraving, jeweling, enamel-
ing and other decorative arts to convey the
wealth and status of their owners. As portable
works of art, the enamel pieces vividly depict
religious, romantic and pastoral scenes, as well
as portraits of their well-heeled owners. “We still
have enamel watches, but much of the knowledge
and know-how has been lost, and we do not have
the same materials anymore,” adds Deléchat.

One of a pair of mirror-image Piguet & Meylan

quarter repeating watches, ca. 1820
Above: Piguet & Meylan quarter-repeating watch
in the form of a rose, also ca. 1820
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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
The newly unveiled Patek
Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky
Moon Tourbillon
T
he following evening at
its boutique on the Rue
du Rhône, Patek Philippe
unveiled its Sky Moon
Tourbillon Ref. 6002, with
an elaborately engraved 18-karat white gold
case and a beautifully executed enamel dial
blending cloisonné and champlevé tech-
niques. The fanciful aesthetic, particularly
the flamboyant case, may shock devotees of
the Geneva brand’s famously sober style.
However, those who have visited the
museum to view the unique pieces
Patek has made for kings, queens,
popes and industrialists over the past
174 years recognize that such elaborate
creations are very much in keeping
with the manufacture’s illustrious
heritage."It's a technical showpiece for
certain," says Larry Pettinelli, presi-
dent of Patek Philippe's US agency,
of the Ref. 6002. "There are very few
artisans who are capable of this type
of work, and we are fortunate to employ
a number of them at Patek."
Since the Stern family acquired Patek
Philippe in 1932, four generations of the
Stern family have dedicated themselves

"T HE RE ARE VERY

F E W ARTI SANS
WH O ARE
C APABLE OF THI S
T Y PE OF W ORK."
—Larry Pettinelli

to preserving scores of precious historical

examples of watchmaking’s decorative
handcrafts in its private collection, while
also continually commissioning Switzer-
land’s few remaining masters to continue
producing them. Deléchat explains that the
company still works with about 15 enamel-
ers, including the legendary Suzanne Rohr.
Despite being in her 80s, she continues
to practice the painstaking ancient tech-
nique of miniature enamel painting using
brushes composed of a single hair. “It takes Back and front
views of the
her 400 hours to complete one enamel
18-karat white
work, and she cannot work more than four gold Ref. 6002
hours per day because it is so hard on her
eyes,” says Deléchat.

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
 Breguet & Fils quarter
repeater cabriolet watch,
made for the Turkish
market, ca. 1810
Perhaps the oldest of watchmaking’s
decorative métiers d’art, engraving is
performed by hand using burins, needles,
chisels and other sharp metal blades to
sculpt and embellish the case with vari-
ous patterns, monograms, coats of arms
and even miniature scenes. Only about a
dozen registered engravers continue the
practice in Geneva, which once counted
almost 200 engravers on the city rolls.
Using techniques of relief and line engrav-
ing, artisans decorate the entire surface of
the Ref. 6002’s case—including the bezel
and the lugs—with a flowing, scrolling pat-
tern that is echoed at the center of the dial
in cloisonné enamel.
Patek Philippe has long employed the
ancient technique of cloisonné enamel-
ing to create its dome clocks, World Time
watches and special commissions. Artists
begin by working with a tiny flattened gold
wire that is finely shaped to outline the
desired motif. Individual cells framed by
the wire are then filled with enamel pow-
All antique watches from the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum
ders that are melted and fused in an oven.
While the dial of the Ref. 6002 is blue, more
extravagant cloisonné dials can include as
many as 30 colors and require up to 15 fir-
ings in an oven heated to 850°C, a process
that can take a week to complete.
While its packaging is strikingly ornate,
the movement of the Ref. 6002 is almost
identical to that of the original Sky Moon
Tourbillon Ref. 5002, which launched
in 2001 and remains the brand’s most
complicated wristwatch ever with 12 com-
plications on two dials. In addition to a
minute repeater with two cathedral gongs
and a tourbillon, the front dial includes a
perpetual calendar with ret-
rograde date and moon-phase
displays. The rear dial features
astronomical functions including a
star map of the northern sky, sidereal
time indication, and the angular progres-
sion and phases of the moon (unlike the
5002, which indicates moon age). The
new piece also uses apertures instead of
hands to indicate day of the week, month
and leap year.
“There will be just a few
of them,” says Thierry
Stern, the brand’s current
president. Only three to
five pieces will be offered
worldwide. At the Ref. 6002’s
unveiling—surrounded by
artisans demonstrating the
crafts of enameling, engrav-
ing and gemsetting—
Stern shared his childhood memories of
his grandfather and father introducing
time-
him to the beautifully decorated time
pieces in their collection. In the 1940s,
Thierry’s grandfather Henri Stern realreal-
ized that watchmaking’s centuries-old
decorative handcrafts were dying out,
spurring him to acquire and build a col col-
pos-
lection of treasures to preserve for pos
terity. That collection is now shared with
the public at the Patek Philippe Museum.
Furthermore, he continued to produce such
pieces, a legacy that has been sustained by
his son Philippe and now by Thierry.
“Today, extraordinary enamel dials are
once again fashionable,” says Thierry,
who notes that there was a time when his
father was the only one who continued to
commission enamel pieces even when no
one was interested in buying them. “We
are talking about a very rare field. It is pre-
served because some brands, like us, have
been working with the artisans for so long.
We do that with pleasure, to be frank; we
don’t do that for business. If I could
choose, I would keep [all the
new Sky Moon watches] for
the museum.”
patek.com
Ilbery London watch with
enamel painting of Geneva
and Mont Blanc, ca. 1820
Ball for BMW GMT, $3.999-$4,399; photo at far right
reveals the watch's micro gas lights illumination
system as it appears in low-light conditions.

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10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m
ImagIne one of your bIggest
opportunItIes comIng to you,
vIrtually unnotIced, In the
form of just another junk
emaIl pIled up In your emaIl
spam folder. That’s essentially the
whimsical situation that executives of Ball
Watch Co. found themselves in two years
ago when they received a rather impersonal
email from a third-party lifestyle communi-
cations agency asking if they might have an
interest in designing a watch line for behe-
moth car manufacturer BMW. Sounds not
all that different from the kind of infamous
emails that offer huge cash settlements if
only the addressees would be kind enough to
submit banking information or Social Secu-
rity numbers. Like most people who receive
such potentially malevolent email messages,
Ball chief operating officer Daniel Alioth
could only scratch his head. “To be honest,”
he recounts, “in the beginning, we thought it
was some kind of joke. But when they called
and asked if we could meet in Munich, we
realized this was something really serious.”
If you were unaware that BMW had
stepped into the watch business with a

small but historically significant horology

outfit called Ball, then you aren’t alone.
Even Alioth admits that when he discusses
the Ball for BMW line that debuted in
Beijing last September with international
vendors and watch insiders, many respond
with surprise when learning of the project.
The Ball for BMW series has been pro-
moted principally in Asia thus far, at least
temporarily minimizing the range’s impact
in Western markets.
 With BMW automobiles selling strongly
in China, Ball saw a conspicuous opportu-
nity to introduce their product in Beijing,
and Alioth has since attended succeeding
regional launches in Seoul and Hong Kong.
The original Ball for BMW line that de-
buted a year ago featured three models: the
base-level Classic, the GMT (with an ad-
ditional time zone display), and the Power
Reserve (with power reserve indicator).
Since then, these three have been joined
by the limited edition TMT, which features
Ball’s proprietary mechanical thermometer
module, and a 1,000-piece limited edition
Chronograph, unveiled in June is expected
in stores in the US later this year. Rang-
ing in price from $3,699 for the Classic to
around $6,000 for the Chronograph, all of
the pieces are COSC chronometer certified.
With historical roots in the late nine-
teenth-century timing and synchronization
of the American railroads, Ball had never
designed a car-themed watch before, and
Ball for BMW TMT
the brand wisely recognized the need to limited edition,
bring someone on board who had previ- available with
Fahrenheit or Celsius
ously explored the concepts, preferably temperature scale,
someone with a unique and cutting-edge $5,299

perspective. Enter Magali Metrailler,
herself somewhat of an enigma in the
watch industry. The beautiful young Swiss
woman, now all of 36 years old, entered
the horology fray in 2000 when she joined
Jaeger-LeCoultre and was soon a principal
in the design of some of their Aston Martin–
themed pieces, specifically the AMVOX
range. Metrailler left that brand in 2010
to have her first child, and seven months
later returned to work as a freelance watch
designer. She was a natural choice for the
needs of the Ball for BMW project.
Traveling to Munich to meet extensively
with BMW designers and engineers and
burying herself in the company’s DNA
with visits to the BMW Museum (she loves
the prewar BMW 328 Mille Miglia cars),
Metrailler further familiarized herself with
a brand she already knew well. Since her fa-
ther has driven one BMW or another for the
past 40 years, she basically grew up in the
ruggedly sporty performance cars.
When one of her early Munich visits
with a BMW designer impressed upon
her the historical longevity of the BMW
side profile, she took the concept a step BMW photos © Copyright BMW AG, Munich (Germany)
further. “I decided to design the watch
case around this detail, and I tried to re-
produce this line-effect on the profile of
the watch, also,” she explains. “I cut the
profile of the watch in two, using the same
line as the profile of the car, and I worked
the shoulder of the watch with exactly the
same dynamic as the body of a BMW.” A
central feature of the watches’ slimness,
this profile is stressed in the campaign’s
marketing materials with design sketches
of the watch’s caseside.
 The man charged with bringing Ball for
BMW watches to American buyers is
Jeffrey Hess, president of Ball Watch
USA. So far, Hess is extremely pleased
with the reception the collection has
received. “The Ball for BMW Collec-
tion has really touched a nerve in the
collector community,” he explains.
Hess attributes the strong debut to the
watches’ combination of design and
quality. “Many car/watch partnerships
simply ‘warm over’ a watch from an
existing family and add a logo. With Ball
for BMW, we created an entirely new
collection with new styling that is unique
and unusual. BMW is known for its qual-
ity cars, and I think the Ball for BMW
Collection puts Ball watches in front of a
whole group of buyers who will under-
stand that Ball quality and BMW quality
are indeed the same thing.” Exclusive
in terms of styling and complications,
the watches will also be kept exclusive
in terms of US distribution. Ball for BMW
watches are offered through select Ball
retailers, including Tourneau, Topper
Fine Jewelers, Old Northeast Jewelers
The TMT limited and the Abt Time Boutique.
edition in low light

The iconic BMW badge The all-electric BMW i3

119
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O m

As with other such automotive/horol-
ogy partnerships, the Ball for BMW range
occasionally evokes cues from the cars,
including the style of the numerals, which
Metrailler based on BMW’s badge lettering,
and the perforated dials seen on many of the
watches, which resemble a BMW grille. The
Ball for BMW pieces also feature Ball’s Am-
ortiser anti-shock system and the brand’s H3
micro gas light technology, which brightly
illuminates the hands and indices in Inka
Orange, a classic BMW color.
Although the watches will be sold prin-
cipally by exclusive jewelers like Harrods
in London or Tourneau in the United
States, they will also be available at par-
ticularly distinguished BMW dealerships,
like the ones local to Beverly Hills and to
London’s Hyde Park. And Alioth expects
that the two companies will eventually
The BMW M6
Gran Coupe
conduct a bit of cross-marketing, with
events that will afford each brand access
to the other’s customer base.
Alioth is quick to extol the seven-year
arrangement with typical publicity watch- Ball for BMW
Power Reserve,
words, saying the two brands, “share the $4,200-$4,599
same values, especially a passion for
engineering of the highest order,
[and] technical and aesthetic excel-
lence.” But he also says that he
is not a diehard automotive
buff by any means (although
he does drive an X5!) and
that the commonalities
between the two compa-
nies revolve primarily
around their similar
pasts. “The begin-
ning of BMW was
airplanes and propel-
lers, and then they
BMW photos © Copyright BMW AG, Munich (Germany)
started creating cars,”
he notes. “It’s a bit the
same with Ball watches.
We are closely related to
the railroad [as opposed to
cars]. But railroads are the
beginning of exploration, the
beginning of globalization and
traveling. I think it’s more in that
aspect that we fit together.”
ballwatch.com/bmw
120
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
Land on a classy display...
with a view

Wall-mounted
Fuselage
BookShelf
MotoArt’s hand made shelf is from a
Boeing aircraft with a flawless mirror-
polished finish for displaying your
favorite collectibles. The passenger
windows are internally illuminated,
with standoffs in the color of your
choice. Custom window and shelf
configurations available.
 +
EvEnt WAtCH
EvEnt rEport | W ho ’s d oing What, Where and W hy i n the W atch i nd ustry

SUMMER SAFARI
american fashion designer ralph Lauren hosted a private champagne reception in

Photos by Marcin Muchalski

late May to celebrate the us debut of the rL67 safari collection. the unveiling took
place at the flagship store at 888 Madison avenue in new york. setting the safari
mood, Lauren’s own 1950 series 1 Land rover was parked outside the boutique, and
models dressed in safari attire greeted guests. the designer himself presented the
brand’s novelties, including the Safari RL67 Tourbillon and the RL67 Chronometer
watches, respectively the first tourbillon watch and the first cosc-certified watch to
emerge from the house of ralph Lauren. Designer Ralph Lauren’s appearance at the Madison Ave. boutique and
888.475.7674, ralphlaurenwatches.com safari-ready watches in the window

“Oceans” at the United Nations, New York
BACK On BROADWAY
audemars Piguet returned to Broadway this year in the role of green room
title sponsor at the 67th annual tony awards. the swiss watch brand also
teamed up with Broadway cares/equity Fights aids to auction a series of
unique audemars Piguet wall clocks in support of that charity. Audemars
Piguet donated $1,500 to Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS for each of the
Tony Awards presenters who signed one of the exclusive clocks and allowed
a photo of the signing to be tweeted. eight additional clocks were decorated
by award nominees and displayed on the red carpet outside new york’s radio
city Music hall. Following the awards, all nine clocks were auctioned through
the charity auction site charitybuzz.com.
888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

UnDER tHE SEA

Blancpain, maker of the famed Fifty Fathoms line of diving
watches, celebrated World oceans day in June by presenting an
exhibition of underwater photography at the united nations in
new york. The watch brand teamed up with the UN’s Division for
Ocean Affairs and the Law of the Sea and divephotoguide.com to
produce “Oceans,” which remained on display through August
16. in addition to the photographs from around the world, two
short videos highlighted Blancpain’s support of major scientific
expeditions to assess the status of the oceans and to study sea life.
this included exclusive footage of the coelacanth, one of the most
important zoological discoveries of the 20th century, and national
geographic’s Pristine seas expeditions.
877.520.1735, blancpain.com Jake Gyllenhall, Matthew Broderick and the Audemars Piguet Royal
Oak Automatic at the Tony Awards
 YES THEY CANNES
Swiss watch brand IWC Schaffhausen hosted a glamorous event during the Cannes Inter-
national Film Festival in May. The brand welcomed about 200 notable personalities to the
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d’Antibes for its “For the Love of Cinema” dinner. Actors
Naomi Watts, Eric Dane and Christoph Waltz, top model Karolina Kurkova, Formula
One driver Lewis Hamilton and many others joined the celebration. The highlight of the
evening was the presentation of the IWC Filmmaker Award to Hollywood screenwriter
Alan Trustman, best known for “The Thomas Crown Affair,” “Bullitt” and “They Call Me
Mister Tibbs!” In addition to the award, IWC CEO Georges Kern presented Trustman with
a specially engraved IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic. Kern says, “Alan Trustman
has made his name with intelligent, subtly ironic dialogue and complex scripts, and it’s an
enormous honor for us to present him with the IWC Filmmaker Award.”
800.432.9330, iwc.com

IWC’s Georges Kern with Naomi

Watts in Cannes

Macy Gray at the Jazz

Foundation of America’s
concert gala

LEGACY AND LUXURY

For a second year, Swiss luxury brand Parmigiani
Fleurier celebrated jazz and blues alongside the
Jazz Foundation of America at the foundation’s
12th annual concert gala. Titled “A Great Night
in Harlem,” the event took place at the land-
mark Apollo Theater and featured live perfor-
mances by Elvis Costello, Macy Gray, Chad
Smith, Paul Shaffer and many more. Music leg-
end Quincy Jones and actors Danny Glover and
Morgan Freeman made special appearances. The
evening paid tribute to the late Claude Nobs,
founder of the Montreux Jazz Festival. As long-
time headline sponsor of the festival, Parmigiani
was honored to celebrate Nobs’ legacy.
949.489.2885, parmigiani.ch

CULTURAL EXCHANGE
Jaquet Droz opened its first
store in mainland China in mid-
June, strengthening its histori-
cal ties with the country. Brand
namesake Pierre Jaquet-Droz was
the first European watchmaker
to enter the Forbidden City. In
the 18th century, hundreds of
watches, snuff boxes and singing
birds by Jaquet-Droz were exported
to China. Now Shanghai has become
home to the modern brand’s sixth Asian
boutique. The official opening was
attended by Jaquet Droz president Marc
Jaquet Droz president Marc A. Hayek
A. Hayek and coincided with the opening
and the Charming Bird watch of an exhibition at the Swatch Art Peace
celebrating the brand’s 275 years.
Hotel, marking the brand’s 275th anniversary.
888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com

123
10:2013 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
 +
EvEnt WAtCH
EvEnt rEport | WHO ’ s d OiNg WHAT, WHe Re ANd WHy i N THe WATCH i Nd UsTRy

FUnnY BUSInESS
Ferragamo Timepieces joined an all-star roster of supporters and
comedians at the 52nd street Project’s Just Kidding gala dinner.
Comedians Lewis Black, Kathleen madigan, Vic Henley, Nancy
giles and John Bowman performed stand-up routines written by
children from New york’s historic Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood.
The annual event aims to raise both money and awareness
for the organization’s ongoing efforts to improve literacy and
develop an appreciation for the arts in the children. Ferragamo
Timepieces president Paul Ziff donated a Ferragamo 1898 watch
to the event’s silent auction. Ziff comments, “if laughter is the
best medicine, then watching these talented youngsters beam
with pride as professional comedians performed the routines
On stage at the Just Kidding gala they had created was a double dose of the very best kind.”
845.425.9882, gevrilgroup.com

MOnACO MOMEntS
TAg Heuer celebrated its continuing partnership with the Auto- Modern Breguet
mobile Club of monaco and the monaco grand Prix in may at the tourbillons on display

71st running of the glamorous auto race. Among the brand’s special
guests for the racing weekend were brand ambassadors Leonardo
diCaprio and Cameron diaz. The actors joined the party aboard
TAg Heuer’s yacht in Port Hercules on saturday and then rooted
for TAg Heuer’s longtime Formula One partner mcLaren Vodafone
mercedes from pit lane on sunday. Diaz wore the new Monaco
ACM chronograph, while DiCaprio stuck with his favorite
Monaco 24. diaz comments, “i grew up watching the grand Prix
of Long Beach, which was my first glimpse into the excitement of
open wheel racing, so i’m thrilled to be here, at the most prestigious
race on the Formula One circuit as part of the TAg Heuer family.”
866.675.2080, tagheuer.com

tHEn AnD nOW

Breguet celebrated the birth of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s tourbillon
mechanism by welcoming guests to its boutiques in New york, Bal Har-
bour and Las Vegas for a champagne toast and a viewing of tourbillon
timepieces on June 26. The historical watchmaker and brand namesake
patented his revolutionary accuracy-enhancing mechanism on the
same date in 1801, cementing his reputation as one of the most illustri-
ous watchmaker’s of his time. Now, an exhibit of timepieces honoring
Breguet the innovator and inventor is set to tour the Us this fall, stopping
at Breguet boutiques in Beverly Hills (October 3–19), Chicago (October
24–29) and New york (November 7–17). And one of the brand’s newest
TAG Heuer ambassadors
Leonardo DiCaprio and tourbillons, the Ultra-thin Tourbillon 5377, featuring a 3-mm-thin move-
Cameron Diaz in Monaco ment with peripheral rotor, is expected in stores in 2014.
866.458.7488, breguet.com

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 TRAVEL TIME:

+
An iconic clock resumes
its rightful place.

RECORD PRICE
Antiquorum’s June 22 auction of Important
Modern and Vintage Timepieces in Hong Kong
brought 626 collectible timepieces to market,
attracting a standing-room-only crowd. One of
the highlights of the sale was an Elgin pocket
watch that belonged to the legendary Hollywood
movie star James Dean. The watch, No. 3071580,
made ca. 1889, achieved the price of HK$325,000,
more than eight times its pre-sale estimate and
a world record for an Elgin pocket watch. Dean
purchased the watch in 1951 and considered it
a lucky charm. Within a couple of years, he was
filming his breakout role in “East of Eden,” with
the watch in his jeans pocket. Before the film
wrapped, he had gifted the watch to a Warner
Brothers employee. After his death in 1955 at the
age of 24, Dean was posthumously nominated
for the 1955 Academy Award for Best Actor in a
MONUMENTAL PROJECT Leading Role.
The Bourget Air and Space Museum at Le Bourget Airport, just north of Paris, has antiquorum.com
unveiled a monumental 1937 clock, which is newly restored thanks to the patronage of
Paris-based independent watch brand Bell & Ross. The clock, featuring twelve smaller
clocks, indicating various time zones, as its markers, was damaged during World War
II. It has now been restored to working condition and also to its original location in
the museum’s Eight Columns Room, which is also newly restored. The unveiling was
presided over by Jean-Yves Le Drian, France’s minister of defense, and crowned by a
Patrouille de France fly-over. As a brand inspired by aviation history, Bell & Ross is a
fitting benefactor for this public symbol of French aviation heritage.
888.307.7887, bellross.com

ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVE
In support of Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ocean
Futures Society, dive watch maker Doxa has begun
auctioning limited edition Doxa Sub 1200T
watches worn by Cousteau during his dives.
Bidding for the series of five watches,
which bear the Ocean Futures Society
logo and Jean-Michel Cousteau’s
name, is taking place on eBay through
December. Each watch is made from James Dean photo: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

a single block of stainless steel and

is water-resistant to 1,200 meters.
Doxa has enjoyed a long relation-
ship with the Cousteau family,
dating back to the 1960s, and has
long supplied them with watches
that are used in carrying out their
mission of oceanic research. Through
this latest project, the brand lends its
support to an organization founded to
raise awareness of critical global environ-
mental issues.
877.255.5017, doxawatches.com James Dean and his pocket watch on set

Auction edition Doxa

Sub 1200T
 +
EvEnt WAtCH
EvEnt rEport | W ho ’s d oing What, Where and W hy i n the W atch i nd ustry

WALKInG tHE WALK

high-wire artist nik Wallenda made history and set
his seventh guinness World record on June 23 by
successfully crossing the grand canyon without
a tether or safety net. The 400-meter walk on a
2-inch steel cable took place high above the
Little Colorado River Gorge of northeastern

Nik Wallenda photo © Tim Boyles Photography

Arizona, and Swiss watch brand JeanRichard
was with Wallenda every step of the way. as a
Jeanrichard ambassador since this april,
Wallenda wears a 44-mm, self-winding
Jeanrichard terrascope wristwatch. Jeanrichard
coo Bruno grande remarks, “We started working
with nik because we admire his personal values and
how he lives his passion and pursues his dreams. he
is an extraordinary man who loves what he does and
inspires not only us but also everyone around him.”
877.846.3447, jeanrichard.com Nik Wallenda and his JeanRichard Terrascope at the Grand Canyon

tHEY’vE GOt GAME

highlighting its continued commitment to sports and to charitable causes, swiss
watchmaker girard-Perregaux supported the sixth edition of the steve nash Foundation
showdown, a charity soccer match created by two-time nBa mVP steve nash and played
in manhattan’s sara d. roosevelt Park. The match brings athletes from the worlds of
professional basketball and soccer together on the field for competitive play. And
Girard-Perregaux provided the trophies. the brand presented chrono hawk watches
to the game’s mVP, Joakim noah of the chicago Bulls, and to massimo ambrosini of
ac milan, in recognition of his long and successful career. after the match, nash, fellow
players, friends and fans gathered for showdown after hours, a cocktail party and live
Roundtable experts at the
Aaron Faber Gallery auction benefiting the foundation’s projects in support of children around the world.
877.846.3447, girard-perregaux.com

COMPLICAtED SUBJECt
new york’s aaron Faber gallery hosted a week of
events focused on the concept of horological grand
complications in early June. a special exhibit of un-
usually complicated watches from Breguet, Blancpain,
Jaeger-Lecoultre, ulysse nardin and Patek Philippe
was on display in the gallery from the 5th through the
12th. Among the rarities from Patek Philippe was
the one-of-a-kind Ref. 959, a $1.5 million clockwatch
with grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater,
split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, phases
of the moon and 24-hour indication. on June 10, the
gallery presented the connoisseur roundtable, a
discussion of the legacy and allure of highly compli-
cated watches, featuring four watch industry legends:
edward Faber, michael Friedman, osvaldo Patrizzi
and alexis sarkissian. Watches from the exhibition
Steve Nash Foundation
are available through the gallery. Showdown soccer match
aaronfaber.com

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10:2013 | W a t c h J o u r n a L . c o m
save
the
date

march 27 –
april 3, 2014
 WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 pieces
Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
Breguet, the innovator.
Classique Hora Mundi - 5717
An invitation to travel across the continents and oceans illustrated on
three versions of the hand-guilloché lacquered dial, the Classique Hora
Mundi is the first mechanical watch with an instant-jump time-zone display.
Thanks to a patented mechanical memory based on two heart-shaped
cams, it instantly indicates the date and the time of day or night in a given
city selected using the dedicated pushpiece. History is still being written...

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