H AIR

CASHMILAN® LS 9 6 0 4
CASHMERE KERATIN

Division de Cognis France

Keratin and hair CASHMILAN® LS 9604 hair benefits are:

-substantivity,
Keratin is the main constituent of hair. Keratin is a family of -conditioning,
fibrous proteins with high sulfur content. -strengthening the cohesion of the cuticular scales of the
It is synthetized inside the germinal cells. On the upper stem,
layers, the cells are completely keratinized. -softening effect against the irritation of the scalp due
Keratin contains most of the amino-acids but especially to the anionic surfactants used in the formulation of
the amino-acid called Cysteine. shampoos,
The amino-acids are disposed according to a chain which -improvement of protection and repair of damage
has an unique sequence for each specie. induced by the UV irradiations,
They are linked by hydrogen bounds stabilizing the -improvement of ease of combing,
structure characterized by its spiral form. -improvement of hair "tonicity".
The partial keratin denaturation leads to the destruction
of the hydrogen bounds, the spiral structure is COSMETIC USE
deteriorated. CASHMILAN® LS 9604 is suitable for:
By this fact we can see that the physical properties of hair -conditioning, protecting and repairing hair care,
are directly linked to the properties of keratin: -shampoos,
- elasticity, -balms, lotions, aqueous and hydro-alcoholic products.
- resistance to mechanical, chemical and physical agents, Especially for:
- a high water absorption capacity, -thin hair,
- electrostatic properties. -dull hair,
-hair deteriorated by the aggressions of the environment,
Weak hair and UV...,

COSMETOLOGY
Weak hair is often thin and slightly keratinized. It has a -hair deteriorated by unadapted hair treatments.
lack of structure and tonicity.
Repeated permanent waves, irritant surfactant uses, UV DOSAGE / SOLUBILITY / MODE OF INCORPORATION
irradiations or environmental aggressions are liable for
the keratin denaturation and for high damages of cuticle. 1. Dose of use: 2 to 5%.
In that case, the use of keratin in hair care is very effective 2. Solubility: CASHMILAN® LS 9604 is water soluble,
due to its softening and repairing effects on alterated slightly soluble in ethanol, insoluble in oils.
hair. 3. Mode of incorporation: CASHMILAN® LS 9604 will be
introduced at the end of the process below 50°C.
Suitable pH: between 3 and 7.
Fragile hair
Fragile hair is dehydrated and/or it has a lack of sebum. ANALY TICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Hair becomes dry and can break easily.
A study of that type of hair shows that it is alterated, the 1. Aspect: amber liquid with a characteristic odor.
S-H bounds are decreased with as, a consequence, hair 2. Specifications: upon request.
elasticity is decreased .
Due to the low content of sebum, hair is dull. TOLERANCE FOR
Hair care products containing keratin derivatives are
necessary to cure fragile hair. Good.

CASHMILAN® LS 9604 STORAGE

ACTIVE I NGREDIENT

DEFINITION / COMPOSITION In its original packaging at 15 - 25°C.

CASHMILAN® LS 9604 is a partialy hydrolyzed keratin from
cashmere wool. EFFICACY
Main components: Test summaries overleaf.
- a solution of hydrolyzed cashmere keratin (active
fraction: ~20%). INCI NAME
Molecular weight: ~7000 Da.
Water (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin.
HAIR BENEFITS
SUPPLIER
CASHMILAN® LS 9604, thanks to its composition, is a hair-
identical protein hydrolysate. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, division de Cognis France.

9604-801-3 © LABORATOIRES SÉROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE

H AIR
E F FIC AC Y TESTS
HAIR PROTECTIVE / STRENGTHENING EFFECT (TRAC-
HAIR CONDITIONING EFFECT TION TEST ON SMALL HAIR LOCKS)
Aim Aim
The ease of combing of hair treated with a shampoo To demonstrate the strengthening effect of a shampoo
containing 2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 was compared to that containing 2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 on permed hair in
obtained with a placebo shampoo on wet and dry hair. comparison to a placebo shampoo.
The evaluation was performed by measuring the force and
work developed while combing treated wet and dry hair locks. Protocol
The lower the combing force, the easier the combing. Human hair

Protocol
Washing with the Washing with the
Ten hair locks placebo shampoo shampoo containing 2%
CASHMILAN® LS 9604

Washing with the shampoo

Washing with the containing 2% Permanent wave
placebo shampoo CASHMILAN® LS 9604 6% of sodium mercaptoacetate during 20 min (pH = 9)
Rinsing Rinsing Rinsing with water + H²O² at 2% (pH = 3) during 10 min
Rinsing

Measurements of combing work and Washing with the Washing with the
maximal combing force on: placebo shampoo shampoo containing 2%
- wet hair CASHMILAN® LS 9604
- dry hair
This cycle repeated twice.
Results
Traction test carrried out 24 hours after the last treatment
Wet Hair
Combing work (Nmm) Maximal combing force (N)
1500 20
F3
delta (˚) 15
1000 -22% (*)
delta
10 -25%
Post-yield slope
500
COSMETOLOGY

5
F15
0 0
F1 F2
Load
Dry hair
Yield Post-yield
Combing work (Nmm) Maximal combing force (N)
region region
60 3
50 2.5
Strain
40 (**) 2 Hookean F1 = elasticity limit
delta
(**)
region F2 = plasticity limit
30 -28% 1.5 delta
-47% F3 = break point
20 1 Work to break F15 = force at 15% of elongation
10 0.5
Fig. 2 - Illustration of tensile curve and evaluated mechanical parameters.
0 0

Statistics:
Placebo shampoo Average of 10 tests ± SEM Results
ANOVA 1 factor
Non paired t test Hair biomechanical parameters
Shampoo containing (˚) p = 0.07 (close to significancy)
FOR

2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 (*) p = 0.04 8

(**) p < 0.0001

+25%
Fig. 1 - Evaluation of ease of combing. +36% (*)
6 (***)
Conclusion +23%
ACTIVE I NGREDIENT

The shampoo containing 2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 reduces (**)

4
the combing force and maximal combing work of treated
hair more than placebo shampoo.
Hair is easier to comb and softer. CASHMILAN® LS 9604
2
shows a significant hair conditioning effect.

0
Force at 15% (N) Maximal force (N) Work at Fmax/10
(Nmm)
Statistics:
Average of 20 hair locks ± SEM
Placebo shampoo Non paired t test
Significant / placebo shampoo
(*) p = 0.01
Shampoo containing (**) p = 0.001
2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 (***) p < 0.0001

Fig. 3 - Traction test on permed hair .

LABORATOIRES SÉROBIOLOGIQUES,
9604-801-3
Conclusion
The shampoo containing 2% CASHMILAN® LS 9604 showed
a good and significant strengthening effect on permed hair
in comparison to the placebo shampoo.
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