How To Build Your Multi-Pitch Kit

Multi-pitch climbing commits the climbers to one

route for multiple hours or days. The logistics of
multi-pitch climbing require a higher level of
knowledge and preparedness, as well as
specialized equipment. The following gear-list
breaks down the pieces of a common multi-pitch
kit and explains some of the variables and
challenges multi-pitch climbers must contend
with.
May 23 2016

Multi-pitch climbing

Guide:

The best way to build an appropriate multi-pitch kit is to first get to know
your local area or destination. Depending on local conditions a multi-pitch kit
may look a lot like your sport climbing kit with a few additional pieces, or it
may differ dramatically. Most guidebooks include a section that describes the
common equipment needed in that specific area. A good guidebook will also
include the local ethics and best practices for interacting with wildlife, other
climbers, and land management.

Personal Equipment:

Each climber will carry a harness, helmet, belay/rappel device, and extra or
emergency equipment such as an anchor kit, cord, knife, rappel rings, pulley,
or compact ascender. Climbers on multi-pitch climbs will also need the ability
to securely attach themselves to an anchor. This may be accomplished either
with a locking carabiner on a clove hitch, or with a dedicated personal
lanyard.

Rope Choices:

While sport climbing is almost exclusively done with one single rope, multi-
pitch climbing may be performed with a wide variety and combination of
ropes. Rappels, rope-drag, party size, and potential for rope damage are
factors a team must consider when selecting the rope(s) for any given route.

Rappels: If a climb requires multiple rappels, the team will need a single rope
that is twice the length of the longest rappel or two ropes that are each as long
as the longest rappel. If the rappels are 35m long the party will be able to
rappel that distance with one 70m rope. If rappels are 60m in length the team
will use two 60m ropes tied together or one 60m rope with a 60m pull cord.
With a pull cord the team climbs and rappels on a single rope and then pulls
the rope down with a lighter, skinnier line. Alternately, the team can climb on
two half or twin ropes and rappel off of the two ropes tied together.

Party Size: If climbing as a party of three, the leader must be able to belay up
each climber individually. The leader may climb on a single rope and bring up
a second single or half rope to belay the third climber, or the leader climbs
with half ropes and belays the seconding climbers each on their own rope. A
single twin rope is not appropriate to belay either a leader or a second.

Rope Drag: On routes that traverse back and forth, rope drag can create
additional difficulties for the leader. Each time a leader places protection
laterally from the fall line, (like during a traverse) friction is added into the
sytem. By using half ropes a leader is able to minimalize the rope drag.

Potential for Rope Damage: By climbing on half ropes instead of one single
rope, a party increases the redundancy in their system. It is less likely that a
fall or rockfall could destroy both ropes, whereas with only one rope a single
event could have catastrophic consequences for the team. This is another
insistance where a team of two climbers may prefer to use twin ropes in place
of a singe rope.

The Second's Pack:

While on a multi-pitch climb the team lacks the ability to lower down for
warmer clothes or a drink of water. Instead the climber who is not leading
carries the team's provisions in a small pack. Usually between 15L and 20L,
the second's pack will contain extra clothing, extra equipment, food, water,
emergency gear, headlamps, and a necessities kit.

The Rack

Most multi-pitch climbs in North America require climbers place their own
protection on the route and build their own belay anchors. When building a
rack for the first time, climbers should consult their local guide book to learn
what gear is considered standard for their area. Often a rack consists of a set
of seven to ten pieces of passive protection (nuts/stoppers/chocks) and six to
twelve cams covering cracks from .3 to 3 inches. A double rack consists of two
cams at each size, though depending on location climbers will carry more or
less protection.

Gear List

1. Guidebook - Guidebooks contain valuable information not only

regarding each individual route, but also the general area.
2. Harness - On a multi-pitch climb a lightweight and comfortable
harness is often the difference between enjoyment and misery.
3. Helmet - Multi-pitch routes are often more exposed to objective
dangers than single pitch routes.
4. Belay Device - A self-braking belay/rappel device will allows the leader
to simultaneously belay two seconds and rappel the routes.
5. Personal Anchoring Lanyard - On multi-pitch routes a climber must
have a means of securing themselves to the anchor.
6. Single Rope - One UIAA rated single rope is an appropriate rope for
multi-pitch climbs without long rappels or wandering routes.
7. Half-Rope - Two UIAA rated half ropes are appropriate for multi-pitch
climbs with wandering routes, long rappels, or parties of three.
8. Nuts/Stoppers - Passive protection good for small cracks.
9. Cams/Friends - Active protection good for small to large cracks.
10. Gear Sling / Cord - Many climbers prefer to "rack" their equipment
off of a sling around their shoulders rather than on their harness.
11. Runners - Extending a clip with a runner reduces rope drag and helps
minimize the chances a cam or nut will "walk."
12. Quickdraws - Ultralight quickdraws help reduce weight on the rack.
13. Nut Tool - Useful for "cleaning" nut placements.
14. Anchor Kit - Slings and locking carabiners for clipping fixed anchors
or building an anchor.
15. Emergency Kit - Items each climber will carry on their harness for
added security. Individualized this kit will depend heavily on each
climbers skill.
16. Cord - Cord is useful in creating a prussik hitch, to back up a rappel
or as an inefficient ascender, or as extra material for connecting objects.
17. Knife - Primarily used to cut cord or webbing for rappel anchors.
18. Pulley/Ascender - Pulleys, ascenders, and other progress capture
devices have numerous uses in building haul systems or ascending a
rope.
19. Locking Carabiner
20. Necessities Kit - A small harness bag makes a great carrying case for
those "extra" items a climber may want.
21. Toilet Paper - Please follow Leave No Trace ethics and properly
dispose of all waste.
22. Tape - Cloth tape is preferred over duct tape.
23. Medical Kit - Always a good idea on a long route.
24. Food/Snacks
25. Extra Clothes - Either a wind/rain or insulation layer should
conditions change.
26. Sunglasses
27. Headlamp - Rappelling in the dark without a headlamp should be
avoided.
28. Water
29. Second's Pack - Small enough to comfortable while climbing but
large enough to carry all the required gear.
30. Back-up Headlamp - Because rappelling in the dark without a
headlamp should be avoided.
31. Sunscreen
32. Descent Shoes - Comfortable shoes for approaching and descending
climbs.