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CLEAN LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, BEDROOMS, TOILETS, BATHROOMS AND KITCHEN

Use and Maintenance of Cleaning Tools and Equipment

TYPES AND USES OF CEANING TOOLS, EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS

Today, cleaning is a very serious concern to have a well conducive environment for living. Our home, working
places and the whole environment require serious treatment in order to give us clean atmosphere where we
can easily live.

CLEANING TOOLS/EQUIPMENT MEANING/USE

Broom is a cleaning implement for sweeping
made of bundle of straws or twigs attached to
a long handle.

Dustpan is a cleaning tool commonly used to

scoop the dirt and wastes on the floor.

Vacuum cleaner is a device that uses an air

pump to create a partial vacuum to suck up
dust and dirt, usually from floors, and
optionally from other surfaces as well. The dirt
is collected by either a dust bag or a cyclone
for later disposal.

Water Hoses are hollow tubes designed to

carry fluids from one location to another.
Hoses are also sometimes called pipes (the
word pipe usually refers to a rigid tube,
whereas a hose is usually a flexible one), or
more generally tubing. The shape of a hose is
usually cylindrical (having a circular cross
section).

Bucket is a watertight, vertical cylinder or

truncated cone, with an open top and a flat
bottom, usually attached to a semicircular
carrying handle that is used to hold water or
any liquid solution used in cleaning.
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Cobwebber is used for reaching and sweeping

of floor without a stool. It is also used to in
stairwells, ceiling corners and other high
areas.

Sponge is characterized by readily absorbing

water and becoming soft when wet while
retaining toughness: used in bathing, in wiping
or cleaning surfaces, etc.

Dishcloth is used in the kitchen to dry dishes

and other surfaces. Typically they are made of
cotton or other cloth, such as microfiber, and
measure 11" to 13" inches square.

Cleaning Cloth is used to wipe the cleaning

tools and equipment.

A floor buffer is an electrical appliance that is

used to clean and maintain non-carpeted
floors, such as hardwood, marble, tile or
linoleum. It is also known as a floor polisher.

SUPPLIES/MATERIALS MEANING/USES

Cleaning detergent is a surfactant or a mixture

of surfactants with "cleaning properties in
diluted solutions that is also used in cleaning
purposes.
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Liquid Detergent is a detergent in liquid form

used for cleaning tools and equipment.

Scrubbing Foam is used to remove the

contaminants of any tool and equipment.

Paper towel is an absorbent textile made from

paper instead of cloth used in drying hands,
wiping windows, dusting and cleaning up
spills.

Water is a liquid used for cleaning most of the

tools and equipment. It is also known as the
universal solvent.

A waste container is a container for

temporarily storing refuse and waste.

Baking soda otherwise known as bicarbonate

of soda or sodium bicarbonate is used to
deodorize refrigerators.
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A glove is a garment that covers the whole

hand of a person that performs household
services.

SAFETY MEASURES IN DOING HOUSEHOLD TASKS

Housekeeping is not just cleanliness. It includes keeping work areas neat and orderly; maintaining halls and
floors free of slip and trip hazards; and removing of waste materials (e.g., paper, cardboard) and other fire
hazards from work areas.

Safe Use Risks can vary greatly. What important is, whoever has to use any tool or piece of equipment as part
of their job does so with care. To ensure safe use, employers must orient workers and provide suitable
information. They must also check that workers have the appropriate qualifications to use intricate tools and
equipment. In addition, as part of their health and safety strategy employers should offer orientation and
training. This isn’t necessary for basic items, but when certain tools and equipment change, orientation and
orientation improves skills and reminds users of safety procedures.

Material handling safety

Handling material is a daily function in the workplace. All too often it is a task taken for granted, with little
knowledge of or attention to the consequences if done incorrectly.

The National Safety Council offers tips on the following:

Power Lifting

Protect Yourself
 Use the correct hand protection; wear gloves to prevent cuts.
 Wear safety shoes to prevent injury to your feet from a dropped item.
Size up the Load
A. Determine if you can carry a load comfortably; tip it on its side.
B. Get help if the load is too big or bulky for one person.
C. Check for nails, splinters, rough strapping, and rough edges.
Lift It Right
 Make sure your footing is solid.
 Keep your back straight, with no curving or slouching.
 Center your body over your feet.
 Get a good grasp on the object and pull it close to you.
 Lift with your legs, not your back.
 Move your feet to turn. Don't twist your back.

Tough Lifting Jobs

Oversized Loads
 Don't try to carry a big load alone. Ask for help.
 Work as a team. Lift, walk, and lower the load together.
 Let one person give the directions and direct the lift. High Loads
 Use a step stool or a sturdy ladder to reach loads that are above your shoulders.
 Get as close as you can to the load.
 Slide the load toward you.
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 Do all the work with your arms and legs, not your back.

Low Loads
 Loads that are under racks and cabinets need extra care.
 Pull the load toward you, and then try to support it on your knee before you lift.
 Use your legs to power the lift.

Power Carrying Tips

Your Checklist
 Make sure your footing is firm.
 Ensure enough clearance at doorways to keep your hands and fingers safe.
 Check your route for hazards.
 Take extra care at platforms, loading docks, ramps, and stairs.
 Carry long loads on your shoulders, with front end high.
 Make sure the next person has a firm grip before you hand off the load.
 When you carry with others, everyone should carry the load on the same shoulder, walk in step, and put the
load down as a team.

Back Safety Tips

 Wear the right personal protective equipment for lifting and carrying.
 Lift with your legs, not your back; pivot, don't twist.
 Get help with tough lifting jobs.
 Spend a few minutes each day before work on power warm-ups.
 Exercise regularly to keep your back strong and healthy.
 Eat right, stay slender, and cut down on stress to avoid back injuries.

Correct Maintenance of Tools and Equipment

A further part of a health and safety strategy is to maintain tools and equipment regularly. This helps to identify
safety problems before they become a serious hazard. Only qualified people should carry out the maintenance.
They should also keep records of their inspections.

Management

There is one important way to follow the rules and to manage the safe use and maintenance of tools and
equipment. This is to assess and control the risks.

General Rules in the Use of Cleaning Equipment

1. Check electrical appliances and equipment before use. Check if there are frayed wires, loose plugs ad
connections. Never use any appliance that is defective.
2. Handle equipment with care and make sure it does not bump on hard surfaces.
3. Clean and store equipment in their custodial room immediately after use.
4. Empty dust bags of dry vacuum cleaners before they overload and after each use.
5. Follow manufacturer’s operating instruction.
6. Schedule a regular check-up of equipment to prevent serious breakdown.
7. To avoid electric shock or short circuit, do not expose equipment to rain or water. Store them indoors to
protect them from getting wet. Electrical equipment should never be used in wet surfaces.

TYPES OF HOUSEHOLD CLEANING PRODUCTS

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Cleaning house means cleaning surfaces like floors, walls, windows, rugs and appliances. Except for rugs and
upholstery, most household surfaces are "hard." Technically, household cleaning is "hard surface cleaning."

No single product can provide optimum performance on all surfaces and all soils. Thus, it is not surprising that
many different household cleaners are available in the marketplace. They are formulated to clean efficiently
and conveniently in the many different situations found in the home. Some are designed for more general use,
such as all-purpose cleaners, while others are designed to work best on specific surfaces and/or soils.

The following types of household cleaning products:

 All-purpose Cleaners

o Abrasive Cleaners

 Powders

 Liquids

 Scouring Pads

o Non-abrasive Cleaners

 Powders

 Liquids

 Sprays

 Specialty Cleaners

o Kitchen, Bathroom, Glass and Metal Cleaners

 Bleaches

 Disinfectants and Disinfectant Cleaners

 Drain Openers

 Glass Cleaners

 Glass and Multi-surface Cleaners

 Hard Water Mineral Removers

 Metal Cleaners and Polishes

 Oven Cleaners

 Shower Cleaners - Daily

 Toilet Bowl Cleaners

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 Tub, Tile and Sink Cleaners

o Floor and Furniture Cleaners

 Carpet and Rug Cleaners

 Dusting Products

 Floor Care Products

 Furniture Cleaners and Polishes

 Upholstery Cleaners

 Other Cleaning Aids

o Ammonia

o Baking Soda

ALL-PURPOSE CLEANERS

ABRASIVE CLEANERS

Abrasive cleaners are designed to remove relatively heavy amounts of soil often found in small areas. They
come in powder and liquid form and contain a kind of built-in elbow grease, which helps cut down on the hard
rubbing required to remove soil. Scouring pads are also included in this category.

The abrasive action is provided by a variety of ingredients: small particles of minerals or a network of fine steel
wool, copper, nylon or metal particles imbedded in a matrix of solid plastic.

The degree of abrasiveness of products varies. Over an extended period of time, the overuse of some abrasive
cleaners can remove the glaze or coating from some surfaces. Always read and follow the surface
manufacturer's instructions before using a product.

Some cleaners disinfect surfaces. They include an antimicrobial agent to reduce the bacterial population that
lives on soiled surfaces. Such agents can include pine oil, quaternary ammonium compounds or sodium
hypochlorite. Such products will be labelled "disinfectant" or "kills germs." In order to use this labelling, these
products are regulated and approved by Health Canada.

Powdered cleaners have a long established place among household cleaners. Their cleaning and polishing
action is provided by fine particles of minerals, such as calcite, feldspar, quartz and silica. In addition,
powdered cleaners contain small amounts of surfactants for removing oily soils, such as the greasy film often
found in sinks after dishwashing.

Liquid cleaners are a suspension of solid abrasive particles in a thickened liquid matrix. They contain more
surfactant and softer abrasives than are found in some powdered cleaners. As a result, their abrasive action is
usually gentler than powders.
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Scouring pads, like powdered cleaners, are products with a long history of use. In the most widely used types,
a ball of fine steel wire provides the scouring action. For chemical cleaning and as a polishing aid, the steel
wool pad may be filled with a cleaning mixture whose principal ingredient is soap.

Some scouring pads are made of non-corroding materials, such as a mesh of copper, stainless steel wire or
nylon, while others are a plastic material imbedded with small particles of abrasives. These pads are not
impregnated with a cleaning mixture and rely on mechanical action alone.

NON-ABRASIVE CLEANERS

Non-abrasive, all-purpose cleaners are marketed in different forms. They are offered as powders that can be
dissolved to the proper strength and as liquids that can be diluted or used full strength. The newest powders
and liquids are concentrated products. Liquids are also available as trigger sprays, in aerosol cans or in pump-
actuated bottles.

Non-abrasive cleaners can also contain antimicrobial agents to disinfect. Such products will specify on the
label that they "kill germs" or "disinfect".

Powdered or liquid cleaners mixed with water are most often used on fairly large washable surfaces like
floors, painted walls, countertops and woodwork, where accumulations of soil are relatively uniform. For heavy
soiling, more concentrated solutions can be prepared. Liquids may also be used full strength.

Spray cleaners are designed for use on smaller washable areas. Soiled walls around switch plates, chrome
fixtures, appliances and cooktops are examples. Like the dilutable products, sprays are formulated with
surfactants and low levels of builders; most contain an organic solvent. The combination of surfactant and
solvent makes such products particularly effective on greasy soils.

SPECIALTY CLEANERS

Specialty cleaning products have a narrower spectrum of uses than all-purpose products. They are designed
for specific surfaces, such as glass, bathroom surfaces, ovens, drains, metal, floors, carpets, furniture and
upholstery, and the soils that usually collect on these surfaces. By concentrating on specific conditions,
specialty products can deliver optimum performance and convenience.

KITCHEN, BATHROOM, GLASS AND METAL CLEANERS

Bleaches Use of liquid household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) for removing stains on fabrics is well
known. Sodium hypochlorite is similarly effective on stains found on hard surfaces. In addition, it
can be used as a disinfectant to kill bacteria, viruses and fungi, including moulds and mildew.
Disinfectants Disinfectants contain antimicrobial agents, such as pine oil, sodium hypochlorite, quaternary
and ammonium compounds or phenols, which kill bacteria and viruses on surfaces. A surface should
Disinfectant be free of heavy soil for effective disinfection.
Cleaners
Drain Today, drain opening products fall into two categories. The newer category includes maintenance
Openers products or "build-up removers"; the second category includes traditional drain openers.

Build-up removers are liquids formulated to prevent the grease and soap scum build-up which
causes clogged drains. They contain enzymes or a culture of bacteria which produces enzymes.

Clogged bathroom drains are often caused by hair, soap particles, toothpaste or combinations of
these materials. On these problems, liquid drain openers containing sodium hypochlorite and
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sodium hydroxide can work well.

Glass Glass cleaners are designed to clean glass surfaces without streaking or leaving any residual soil
Cleaners or product. Liquid glass cleaners are available in bottles with trigger sprays or in aerosol
containers.

Glass and These function as effective cleaners on a variety of kitchen surfaces and have the additional
Multi-surface feature of being non-streaking on glass. The unique combination of surfactants, solvents, mild
Cleaners alkalis and builders provides the non-streaking characteristic.
Hard Water Water hardness is caused by the presence of dissolved mineral salts, such as those of calcium,
Mineral magnesium, iron and manganese. When hard water evaporates, a mineral deposit is left behind
Removers which can build up over time. Hard water mineral removers are formulated to remove such
deposits.

These products come as powders or as liquids with push-pull tops or trigger sprays. They contain
acids, such as citric, oxalic, sulphamic or hydroxyacetic acid, to dissolve minerals, limescale and
rust. Some include surfactants to aid in cleaning and organic solvents to help remove soap scum.

Mineral removers are effective where mineral deposits are visible around faucets, shower doors,
and in tea kettles, humidifiers and toilet bowls. Their regular use helps prevent mineral deposit
build-up.

Metal Metal presents a special cleaning problem, tarnish (the oxidation of metal), which is the principal
Cleaners and soil to be removed. Metal cleaning products are sold as pastes, thick opaque liquids or clear
Polishes liquids which may hold a fine abrasive in suspension.
Oven These generally are liquids that are packaged in aerosol containers. Charred grease and other
Cleaners food components make up the soils deposited on oven walls. For most oven cleaners designed
to work in a cold oven, strong ingredients are necessary to remove burned-on soils. A strong
alkali, like sodium hydroxide (lye), is the principal agent in such oven cleaning products. During
use, the alkali converts the grease to soap,
Shower Daily shower cleaners are formulated to prevent build up of soap scum, mildew stains and hard
Cleaners water deposits without rinsing, wiping or scrubbing, and without leaving a dull residue or streaks.
Toilet Bowl This category comprises many product forms. Whatever the form, the products are designed to
Cleaners maintain a clean and pleasant smelling toilet bowl. Some products also disinfect.
Included in this category are thickened liquids that cling to the sides of the toilet bowl, fresheners
that keep the bowl smelling fresh, and various forms of in-tank cleaners that release active
ingredients into the bowl with each flush of the toilet. Because of the incompatible nature of these
products, manufacturers often warn the consumer not to mix them with other cleaning products.
Tub, Tile and These specialty products are formulated to remove not only the normal soils found on bathroom
Sink and kitchen surfaces, but also hard water deposits, soap scum, rust stains and discolourations
Cleaners due to mould growth, which are common to these areas.
Tub, tile and sink cleaners are usually liquids. They are marketed as dilutable liquids, trigger
sprays and aerosols. Because many soiled surfaces are vertical, some sprays are dispensed as
foams to prevent excessively fast run-off of the cleaning product.

FLOOR AND FURNITURE CLEANERS

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Carpet and Rug Carpet and rug shampoos are sold as concentrated or ready-to-use liquids, trigger sprays,
Cleaners powders and aerosols. They are formulated to wet the pile of the carpet and take up oily and
greasy soils. Such products provide a system that traps soil in suspension and dries to a
brittle solid residue. The brittle residue containing the soil particles is then removed by
vacuuming. Carpet and rug cleaners actually clean a surface and should not be confused with
carpet fresheners which are formulated to reduce malodours that may be found in carpets and
rugs.

Carpet cleaning can also be achieved by the use of wet, free-flowing powders. These powders
contain water, solvents and surfactants to emulsify soil. The emulsified soil is absorbed onto
the powders. Once dry, the powder can be easily removed by vacuuming.

Besides products to be used directly on carpets or rugs, there are liquid cleaning formulations
which are marketed for use with carpet/rug shampooing equipment. The ingredients are
essentially identical for both products.

Steam cleaning equipment requires special formulations, as foam interferes with the steam
cleaning process. If there is residue from previous shampooings, a defoamer (silicone
emulsion) may be used.

Dusting Dusting products are usually marketed as trigger sprays or aerosols that dispense the
Products ingredients in a fine spray onto surfaces or a dusting cloth. Such products can be used on
furniture to attract, pick up and retain light dust and soil on cleaning cloths. They are not
appropriate for use on floors as they may make the surface slippery.

These products function by picking up and holding dust on the applicator rather than simply
spreading and redistributing the dust over furniture or in the area. Some products also contain
additives for helping remove oil-based and water-based stains from furniture.

Floor Care In this group of liquid and paste products, it's necessary to formulate specialties within
Products specialties because flooring materials come in many types: hard flooring such as stone,
masonry and wood; and resilient flooring such as vinyl, asphalt, rubber, linoleum and cork.
Each requires a specially formulated product for maximum effectiveness in removing soil,
polishing the surface and leaving it with a shine and a protective coat. No-rinse products offer
added convenience and easy application. Dusting aids are often used to help remove light
particulate soil.

Most floor care products contain water as the carrier for small particles of wax such as
polyethylene, and polymers such as polyacrylate. When dry, they leave a shine and a light,
clear protective layer on the surface.

In products for wood or cork flooring, a solvent acts as the carrier for wax particles, such as
those of natural carnauba wax which is especially effective in providing a pleasing shine and a
hard finish.

In products for wood flooring, liquid or paste wax is still the principal gloss-producing
ingredient. Many products require buffing to increase shine. To help prevent slippery
conditions, apply the product according to label directions and buff thoroughly.

Furniture Furniture cleaners and polishes are marketed as liquids, pastes or aerosols. The dispensing
Cleaners and arrangement of aerosols contributes to uniform deposition of the cleaning product.
Polishes
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Furniture cleaners/polishes are designed to remove dust and stains from wood surfaces,
produce shine and provide protection against water spots. They are formulated to reduce wax
build-up with continued use.

Upholstery Upholstery cleaners are very similar to carpet and rug cleaners. They are marketed as
Cleaners concentrated or ready-to-use liquids, trigger sprays, aerosols and even as powders.

Surfactants and materials such as anti-soil agents are the essential components in upholstery
cleaning products.

How to Clean the Bedroom

Take one bedroom at a time and, starting from the top down, begin by dusting. This includes ceiling fans,
walls, and trim around windows and doors, as well as the doors themselves. Don’t forget closet doors. Use a
microfiber dusting cloth to gather all the dust flying about. Follow with a damp cloth where necessary.

Take down drapes and wash or air. Dust blinds and wash windows.

Remove the bedding and launder or air as necessary.

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Dust lamp shades, then table tops and dressers, removing small items as you go, dusting those items as well.
Wash any dresser scarves or clothes.

Remove everything from underneath the bed, pick up any throw rugs, and take out of the bedroom.

Pull furniture slightly away from the walls. This is done in order to get ready for the vacuum cleaner or dust
mop.

Bring in the vacuum cleaner, dust mop, or both, and begin by cleaning around the room edges, vacuuming
and/or wiping off the trim around the floor. Use an extension tool on your vacuum cleaner to reach the corners
and behind the furniture.

Some people take this opportunity to air the mattresses or, at the very least, turn them upside down and/or end
to end.

Slide the furniture back in place and replace the mattresses if you removed them, and run your vacuum
cleaner all over the floor, making several sweeps in various directions. You’re vacuuming up all the dust you
knocked down earlier, so be thorough.

Hang the curtains back up, replace your stored items under the bed, and bring in the fresh laundered bedding
and you are done – at least with one bedroom. Time to move onto the next!

Cleaning the Dining Room

Just like the bedroom, you begin by dusting from top to bottom. If you begin with the window and door frames,
the doors themselves, and any trim along the ceiling, you’ll get the dust knocked down where you can vacuum
it up.

Windows in your dining room would also be washed at this point, once the trim around the window is dusted
and wiped down. Also, if you have any window treatments, it’s time to take them down and air them out, or
wash them as necessary.

If your dining room lighting fixture is large or complicated, or requires special attention, tackle that next. Then
continue your dusting (I prefer a microfiber cloth) of the buffet, side tables, main tables, and any decorations
and centerpieces you may have.

If you have a buffet filled with dishes, you may want to remove those at this time and put them in the kitchen to
be washed.

You are now ready to vacuum and mop. If you are able, move any furniture such as the buffet away from the
wall so you can vacuum next to the floor boards and wipe the floor boards as well. If you can’t move the buffet,
use your extension tools to vacuum under the buffet and get as close to the wall as possible.

Continue vacuuming and mopping the floor as necessary.

Re-hang your draperies or other window treatments at this time.

It’s a good time now to give your table and buffet any special treatment it needs, such as oiling or waxing.
Take care to include the chairs in this treatment.

Now, bring in your washed dishes and put them back where they belong and replace any other knick-knacks
you may have removed while you were cleaning.
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If you find you have more time and lots of energy, now is a good time to clean out the buffet drawers or shelves
and wash any linens stored. Washing or polishing any special service pieces would complete your task.

The dining room is often the easiest room to spring clean. It can also be the most rewarding as you wash and
polish some of your favorite dinnerware, keepsakes, and decorations. Take your time and enjoy.

Cleaning the Living Room

Clear any other knick-knacks off the bookcases, setting them in bins and moving the bins out of the room. You
can start the actual dusting now, beginning from the top to the bottom. Start with your ceiling fan, wood trim
around the ceiling, doors, and windows. Use a micro-fiber cloth for these areas to trap the dust instead of
sending it flying

Remove and air out or wash draperies if necessary. Then wash the windows and wipe off any dirt, scuffs, or
smudges around the door frame and window frame or window sills. Use a cloth dampened in a cleaner that is
safe for wood.

Once this task is done, dust the entertainment unit and components. You may want to use a special “canned
dusting” blower to really get that dust out of the grills and from underneath the television and all the players you
have attached. Use your micro-fiber cloth again to gather all the dust bunnies you’ve unearthed.

You’re ready now to do the “nice” dusting. Start with your bigger furniture, like the entertainment center, then
move on to your lamps and end tables.

Get out your vacuum and, using the proper tool, vacuum out under the cushions of the sofas and chairs. If you
have area rugs, remove them now and hang them outside if you can, or just roll them up and put them aside.
If you have large rugs and space available, put your rugs upside down and vacuum, then flip and vacuum.
They’ll be ready now to bring back into the living room once you’ve finished with the cleaning. Just roll them up
and set them aside.

Hook up the crevice tool and extensions and vacuum around the edges of the room. Then, put your vacuum
back together and give the entire carpet or floor a good vacuuming, using a back and forth motion, then
changing directions, and go over the carpet or floor again.

Put the room back together and bring in the bins with your knick-knacks. Keeping a clean micro-fiber cloth in
your hand, remove your knick-knacks, wipe them off, and return them to their places.

There are all sorts of special considerations for cleaning a living room. In leather furniture, take time to clean
and treat it properly according to manufacturers directions. If there is a fireplace, that’s a whole separate
cleaning task which is very specific to each home. If you have slip covers on your furniture, it may be time to
have it professionally dry-cleaned or laundered.

Cleaning the Bathroom

Depending on how many bathrooms you have, this project could take all day or even several days. Here is
where I take some tips from the pros. For our discussion here, we’ll just assume we’re cleaning one full bath;
that is a bathroom that has a tub with shower. Then just reapply all the cleaning strategies to any other,
smaller bathrooms and powder rooms.

Trick of the pros: choose only two cleaning solutions for entire bathroom. It makes the job go faster and
easier.
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Choose one cleaner for scrubbing and one for shining. In other words, you’ll want one cleaner to scrub the
tub, tile and countertops. You’ll want another cleaner for the mirror and faucets. (Note: NEVER mix bleach,
even products that contain bleach, with ammonia or products that contain ammonia. The fumes are toxic, even
deadly.)

Following a professional’s guidelines, we start with the toilet. Use a good cleanser. That doesn’t mean you
have to use a “toilet bowl cleaner.” You can use any good disinfectant scrubbing cleanser. Fill the toilet bowl,
close the lid and let it stand while you continue. Some folks prefer just using plain bleach for this job. You may
want to start your exhaust fan if you choose to use bleach as the fumes can get a bit obnoxious. Close the lid
and move on for now. You’ll come back to finish the toilet later.

Remove your shower curtain, liner, and any rugs, etc. Launder or replace as necessary. If you have a window,
remove those curtains, shades, or blinds (if possible) and wash accordingly. Using a mixture of vinegar and
water, wash the inside of the bathroom window and the surrounding woodworking with soft rags.

Grab your scrubbing cleanser and sprinkle (wet shower surround and tub first) or spray on the bathtub-shower
walls continuing down into the tub. Start scrubbing with a good stiff brush or scrubbing pad, top to bottom, all
the way into the tub.

Trick of the pros: it’s much easier on the back to climb into the tub to scrub it. Put rags in the bottom of the
tub to prevent slipping and climb in barefoot.

You’ll want to have a large bucket and large sponge on hand for rinsing if you don’t have a detachable shower
head. Once you’ve scrubbed the entire surface, begin rinsing until you hear the surfaces squeak when you rub
it.

Trick of the pros: install a detachable shower head and use it like the spray attachment on your kitchen sink
to rinse your shower.

You’ll want to start with your medicines. Check expiration dates and put any medicines (prescription or over-
the-counter) that have expired into one box. Add to that box any medicines that you simply no longer use.
Anything you haven’t taken in over a year is suspect. That box of medicines should go to a medicine disposal
place – call your doctor’s office for information about these safe disposal sites. Most clinics and hospitals allow
people to bring their drugs and medicines there for collection and proper disposal.

Okay, now that you’ve handled the clutter, it’s time to wipe out the shelves. Use a mild cleaner and a sponge
or rag and get the interior of your cabinet and cupboards wiped out. I like vinegar and water for this chore as it
freshens as it cleans. Leave the cabinet doors open and let the interior dry completely. Then neatly restock
with your bathroom items.

Now you’re ready to clean the mirror, countertop, and sink. Using your tub cleanser, sprinkle or spray your
sink, faucet, and countertop. Take your scrubber pad, brush, or sponge and scrub up your surfaces. Rinse
well.

Next, spray the mirror, countertop, and sink with a glass cleaner. My preference is a vinegar and water mixture
because it’s safe to use and it removes soap residue. That is the reason you spray down the countertop and
sink after you scrub it. Plus, you’ll get extra shine on the faucet. Wipe the mirror, countertop, and sink with
clean rags until they are dry and shining. Take your glass cleaner over to your tub faucet as well and give that
the same shiny treatment.

Trick of the pros: always follow up your sink and tub scrubbing with a spray and wipe with glass cleaner on
the faucets and handles. That’s where the shine comes from.
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You are ready now to scrub the toilet. Use a good solid brush, scrub up and around the rim, and flush. Spray
the entire toilet down with your glass cleaner (vinegar and water works well) and wipe down with clean rags.

Your floor is the final step. Using a mixture of vinegar and water, start with a bucket and mop or a sprayer and
rags, and work your way out the door.

Speaking of the door, now is the time to wipe down the door, door frame, and door knob. Using a mixture of
vinegar and water (which makes a good, safe disinfecting spray) spray down the entire door and wipe dry. Pay
close attention to the handle.

Once the floor is dry you can go back in and hang the shower curtains, window curtains, and any rugs.

WASH AND IRON CLOTHES, LINENS AND FABRICS

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF FABRICS

ROLE OF SHAKING, BRUSHING, AIRING AND LAUNDERING CLOTHES IN CARE AND MAINTENANCE
OF FABRICS

We all know that when we wear clothes they become dirty and need laundering. The dirt is due to stains,
dust, grease and perspiration. When left on fabrics, these can lead to the following damages:
 Stains and dirt on clothes become medium for the growth of bacteria, fungus or other harmful
organisms which may lead to skin problems and poor personal hygiene.
 Dirty clothes lose their freshness and smell unpleasant.
 Left on clothes the dirt and stains reduce the strength of the fabric.
 No one feels good wearing stained and dirty clothes.
Clothes need not be washed every time they are worn. It depends on the weather in which these have been
worn and how much sweat they have absorbed. When the weather is good and you do not sweat, you can
safely reuse your clothes. But before putting them away for reuse keep the following steps in mind to maintain
your clothes.

Shaking, Brushing and Airing

‘Shaking’ helps in removing loose dust from the fabric. Hold the dress with both hands and shake it vigorously.
Have you seen materials like velvets, corduroy, chenille, blankets and carpets? They are thick and have a pile
on their surface which holds dust easily. To remove it we need to gently brush the surface with a soft clothes-
brush, in the direction of pile (fuzzy surface).
Thus brushing is for removing loose dirt from fabrics which have a pile on them suits and coats are also
brushed.
‘Airing’ helps in drying and removing bad odours from fabrics. It is done preferably outdoors in the sun or in a
well-ventilated room.

Laundering
Laundering of clothes does not mean only washing of clothes. It consists of the following three steps:
i. Washing or dry-cleaning garments to remove dirt, perspiration and smell, e.g. your school uniform is
washed and your woolen coats and jackets etc. are dry cleaned
ii. Finishing the garments with stiffening agents like starch and gum, brightening or bleaching agents,
drying them then ironing or pressing, folding and hanging garments, e.g. cotton dupattas and
sarees are starched.
iii. Storing the garments for a short or long time, e.g. when the winter season arrives you put away
summer clothes and take out woolen shawls, sweaters, coats etc.

Remember, washing and dry cleaning are two different processes used for cleaning different types
of clothes.
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Washing Dry-cleaning
Means removing dirt using soap/ detergent Means removing dirt using grease absorbents
and water. and solvents.
Colourfast fabrics can be easily washed. Leather and fur, selected silks and woolens,
zari and other costly fabrics are dry cleaned.

Collection of clothes and supplies:

If you have a set place to keep your dirty clothes and supplies for washing, then this step is already taken care
of. If not then collect all the dirty clothes and supplies needed for washing, at one place. It helps to conserve
energy while washing. Can you explain how?

Mending damaged garments

The old saying- ‘a stitch in time saves nine‘ stands true in this case. If any garment has been damaged, its
handling during washing may make the yarns come out from its torn areas and make the tear larger. It may
become very difficult or impossible to mend them neatly. That is why it is advisable to mend (repair) all tears
before the garments are washed.

Sorting
It refers to separating the clothes on the basis of
(i) the type of fabric
(ii) colour
(iii) size and weight
(iv) amount of dirt
(v) utility of the article
(vi) soaking time
(vii) amount of detergent and bleach required as these are all different for different fabrics.

Sorting
If you ignore this sorting, white fabrics may acquire colour stains if the colour of any other garment bleeds. For
maintaining good hygiene dusters, kitchen towels and dish clothes, under garments, socks, need to be washed
separately.
 Colorfast (hindi nagmamantsa)
 Non-colorfast (nagmamantsa)

Testing for colorfastness of garment before washing:

 place a drop of water on an inside seam (or a shirt tail). Blot with a white cotton ball or a towel.
 If the cotton ball or towel remains clean, it’s safe to wash the garment with others of similar color. If it
becomes tinted, wash the garment separately by hand.
 Don’t hang a non-colorfast garment up to dry (the running color can streak). Roll it in a towel to blot
excess moisture before ironing.

Read labels on the garments

Generally, all textiles and textile products carry labels which provide basic information about the product, for
example, the contents of the product, its washing and ironing instructions, etc. These instructions are stamped
at the beginning and end of the fabric roll or along its selvages. Reading these thoroughly will help you take
better care of your fabrics. Following are some of the stitched and stamped labels on garments.
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CHECK STAINS AND REMOVE THEM

Ink, lipstick, nail polish, grease, paint tea and coffee, are some marks that may spoil our clothes at one time or
the other. A stain is an unwanted mark of discolouration on a fabric caused due to contact with another
substance. Generally, a stain requires special treatment for removal. If you have ever accidentally spilled tea
on your clothes and washed it off immediately you must have realized that the stain gets removed quickly. Old
stains take long and also a lot of effort to remove, often with poor results. Hence, the best way to get rid of
stains is to remove them as soon as possible. Do not allow these to penetrate deep into the fabric or get dry
and set.

Remember stains must be removed before washing as some of them may become permanent when exposed
to chemicals in soaps or detergents, hot water and ironing.

Different types of stains require specific stain removing techniques and agents, depending on the type of
fabric. Use of incorrect stain removing agent can spoil the fabric or its colour. Hence always try to identify the
stain and select appropriate techniques and stain removing agent.

Most of the stains can be identified by their colour, smell and feel. Let’s find out more about them.
a) Colour: Every stain has a specific colour. For example, the colour of curry/pickle stain is yellow, a coffee/tea
stain is brown, a grass stain is green and so on. Try and collect some more stains with colours.
b) Smell: Most stains have a peculiar smell. Recall the smell of egg or paint or shoe polish. The stain on a
fabric will have the same smell.
c) Feel: Stains can also change the feel of the fabric and can thus be recognized on this basis. Have you ever
observed that paint or sugar make the fabric hard and stiff to touch, whereas lipstick or shoe-polish make the
fabric feel slippery.

Classification of stains
Stains can be grouped on the basis of their origin, e.g., tea and coffee and many oils, vanaspati and ghee
come from vegetable source. While removing these stains you can use more or less the same removing
agents and method. Let us classify all stains on the basis of their origin.

Category of Stain Stains

1. Vegetable stains Tea, coffee, fruit
2. Grease stains Butter, ghee, oil, curry, shoe polish, tar, oil
paints
3. Animal stains Blood, milk, egg
4. Mineral stains Rust
5. Miscellaneous stains Dye, ink, mildew, grass, perspiration

9.3.2 Techniques of stain removal

There are two methods of stain removal:
(i) Sponging and
(ii) Dipping. Let us learn how stains are removed by using these methods.
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Sponging
•Place an absorbent paper or fabric under the stain so that the right side of the stain faces the absorbing
surface. Sponging should always be done on the wrong side of the stain.
Take a soft cloth, dip it in the stain-remover and gently rub the stain starting from its outer corner moving
inwards, towards the centre.
•Use light, circular strokes as these prevent the stain from spreading.
•The absorbent paper or fabric (commonly known as blotter) must be changed as soon as it starts showing the
stain.

Dipping
Dipping is the method in which the entire fabric can be immersed in the stain removing agent. It is suitable if
there are many stains or a large stain on the fabric. We can choose the stain removing re-agent depending
upon the type of stain.

Some of the common reagents used for stain removal are borax powder, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic
acid and ready to use bleaches.

Types of stain and method of removal

1. Vegetable stains Tea, coffee, fruit, etc.

Consideration for removal Use alkaline reagents such as borax powder to remove stains
as these are acidic in nature.
Stains White cotton Coloured cotton
Fresh Pour boiling water on the stain Soak in warm water and
tea/coffee, chocolate,fruit borax (2 cups of water + ½
Old teaspoon of borax)
Dip the stained portion in
glycerin. Or spread borax Same as for white cottons
powder over stain and pour
boiling water while holding the
stained portion on the mouth
of a mug or pan.
henna (Menhdi) fresh same as for white cotton
dip in warm milk for half an
hour

2. Animal stains
Consideration for removal
Stains
old
repeat the above two or three same as for white cotton
times
blood, milk, egg, etc.
Avoid heat as these stains
contain protein which gets
fixed on heat treatments
White cotton Coloured cotton