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PROCESSING
Mercerising
Dyeing Printing
4
Preparation/Pretreatment
Singeing
Fig. 8. DORNIER
singeing machine for
circular knitted fabrics
What should control during
singeing operation?
Intensity and uniformity of flame
Working speed of the fabric to be singed
Effectiveness of singeing : should not add
harshness in the fabric
Should not damage the synthetic filament
yarn in the fabric
Sizing /Slashing
Slashing is the process where
Size is applied to warp yarns for
weaving.
The purpose of size is to protect
the yarn from the abrasive action
of the loom.
The process is carried out on a
Slasher and the application
procedure is called Sizing or
Slashing.
NATURAL SIZING AGENTS
Polyacrylates
Modified polyesters
Polyvinyl alcohols(PVA)
DESIZING
Whiteness Index-CCM
Whiteness
The standard ceramic tile is measured
and set to equal 100. The other
specimen are rated against this
standard.
Unbleached fabrics will give values in
the 50 to 60 range.
Well breached fabrics will rank 95 or
better.
OPTICAL BRIGHTENERS
Certain organic compounds possess the property of
fluorescence which means that they can absorb shorter
wave-length light and re-emit it at longer wave-lengths.
A substance can adsorb invisible ultra-violet rays and re-
emit them within the visible spectrum. Therefore a surface
containing a fluorescent compound can emit more than the
total amount of daylight that falls on it, giving an intensely
brilliant white.
Compounds that possess these properties are called
Optical Brighteners or OBA's.
OBA
If brilliant white finish is required in textile,
then bleaching is not sufficient. For this
purpose Fluorescent brightening agents are
used.
For synthetic fibres-OBA –Optical
Brightening Agents are mostly used.
Fluorescent brightening
agent(FBA)
• Fluorescence is the ability of a
substance to absorb radiation of light
and re-radiate it at a longer
Eye detect visible wavelength.
Eye detect visible & UV
only both
Incident light Incident
Visible light
69
100% Wool Fibers
1. Carbonising (to remove leave, bark
and other parts of the plants from the
wool fibers)
2. Scouring (to get rid of fat and oil from
the fibers)
3. Bleaching (to make the fibers whiter)
70
Scouring of Wool
• Wool is a protein fibre
and sensitive to bases.
Wool can be scoured by
using detergent at pH
upto 7 at 60oC
• To remove vegetable
material it is carbonised
by using Dilute
Sulphuric acid.
• It has tendency of
felting
Carbonising of wool
• Carbonising is a chemical treatment of
wool with strong acid (H2SO4)designed
to remove any remaining vegetable
impurity.
Felting and milling
• Felting is the tendency of the fibres to form
matted entanglements such that a woven
fabric, for example, can become so matted
that the warp and weft yarns are no longer
visible.
• The result is a fabric which is apparently
composed entirely of a entangled web of
fibres and the fabric is referred to a felt.
• Milling is the process of deliberately felting
wool goods to achieve the effects of felting.
Natural Impurities-Silk
• Silk contain 22 to
25% gum
Scouring of Silk
De-gumming:
• It is scoured by using
Soap and soda ash
• Treatment for 1 hour at
50oC (repeat this
process three times)
• Bleaching is carried out
with hydrogen peroxide
(No NaOH) With
sodium silicate
Mercerization
This is the process applicable only on
cellulosic fibres especially cotton.
The main purpose of mercerization is to
alter the chemical and physical properties
of the fibre.
Change in cross section
1. Cross section of cotton before mercerisation
2-5 swelling process in 18% NaOH
6 Rinsing
6 process after swelling
7 Final state
Work Procedure
In natural condition the cotton fiber is a flat, twisted,
ribbon-like filament. When immersed in caustic solution it
swells out and takes on a round and a hair like appearance,
and becomes plump instead of flat.
How it is done
The cotton is soaked in strong caustic soda or
caustic potash solution for a few moments
under stretch and then washing in pure water
to remove the caustic.
The cellulose is changed into hydro-
cellulose or cellulose-hydrate.
Cellulose cannot be dyed so easily. Hydro-
cellulose on the other hand, absorbs almost
any kind of dye readily.
Mercerised cotton takes dyes so fast, that
chemicals are added in the dye bath to
check the process in order that the dyes
may not enter so rapidly as to render the
shading uneven.
Woven fabric
Knitted
Taking a cotton blend, and then
mercerising will produce an effect called
as crepon effect. Similarly,
mercerisation can be used to produce
seersucker effect by Mercerising only
certain stripes on the warp direction by
covering the rest of the cloth by suitable
means.