ViadelaPlata.

net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

Sevilla / Seville Spain by the Moors. The Plaza de España, completed in 1928
for the Ibero-American Exhibition, is a graceful example of
The city of Seville has a population of 703,000. It is the capital
early 20th century Renaissance (arches) and Mudéjar
of the autonomous community of Andalusia and the Province of
(brickwork) revival architecture. It and its adjoining park, are a
Seville. All facilities you could possibly need are available.
nice place to relax on a sunny afternoon. Besides the major
All facilities except a dedicated pilgrim hostel! However, there
historic buildings, Seville is also a great city for walking around,
are lots of cheapish backpacker hostels and hotels. Two good
soaking in the architecture and atmosphere of its narrow streets,
options are Triana Backpackers at Calle Rodrigo de Triana,
and getting hopelessly lost. Just walk east or north from the
Triana, on the opposite side of the river from the city centre in a
cathedral. If you like post apocalyptic you may enjoy a visit to
working-class neighbourhood. This well-run and friendly hostel
the site of Expo 92, much of it unchanged and slowly falling to
has dorm beds from about 13€ and is popular with pilgrims and
pieces from when it was abandoned when the Expo ended. It
backpackers. They organise visits to local late-night bars to see
includes a life-size model of an Apollo rocket. It's in the area
traditional Sevillanas singing and dancing (far more authentic
around La Isla Mágica, across the river from the city centre and
than the tourist shows in the city centre). If you're cycling you
north of Triana. The river itself, the Guadalquivir (big river in
can contact them about having your bike delivered there a few
Arabic), may look impressive but it's actually an isolated branch
days before you arrive. They can also arrange bike hire. More
of the main river which you will cross before Camas.
information and booking on 954 459 960 or from their website:
english.trianabackpackers.com. Hotel Simón, at Calle Garcia
de Vinuesa 19, about 120m from the cathedral, has been If you find this guide useful please consider making a
recommended by several pilgrims, it has singles from 40€, donation towards its upkeep. Your contribution will help
telephone 954 226 660, website www.hotelsimonsevilla.com. ensure that it will still be kept up-to-date and made
These and other accommodation can be booked from available free to future pilgrims. Also, for a US$5 donation
www.hostelworld.com or from www.booking.com. you’ll be able to download PDF copies of the full version of
Credenciales (pilgrim passports) are available from the this guide (with maps, altitude profiles, etc.) and a copy of
following places: the very helpful and friendly Amigos del our best-selling Practical Prepartion book, with everything
Camino de Santiago en Sevilla, at: Calle Castilla 82, which is you need to know before you set off. See our website:
on the Camino as it passes through Triana. Opening hours vary, www.caminoguide.net
please check their website under Atención al Peregrino. Their
website has loads of information in Spanish: www.viaplata.org. The Camino begins outside the main door of the
The Cathedral Parochial Office, ask one of the cathedral cathedral, turn right to follow the tram tracks along
employees where to go for a Credencial de peregrino. Hotel Avenida de la Constitución, then, at the corner of the
cathedral turn left on to Calle García de Vinuesa,
Simón and Triana Backpackers (details above). Alternatively, then first right on to Calle Jimios. This becomes
Credenciales are also available on the Vía in Castilblanco and Calle Zaragoza, which you follow through various
Monesterio, and from other large pilgrim hostels in major towns twists and turns until it intersects with Puerta de
Triana, with Café de Indias on your left. Now turn
and cities. left and continue straight to cross Triana Bridge (AKA
Seville has a big tapas culture and many bars around both Triana Puente de Isabel II). Once across the river turn right
and the city centre have good selections. Recommended for after the Mercado de Triana along Calle San Jorge and
tapas is La Molona on Calle San Pablo, which is a continuation Calle de Castilla (where there's a Día supermarket
which opens at 09:30). After about 600m you'll come to
of Calle Reyes Católicos. If your preparations for the Camino a modern square with steps leading up on the right
includes eating like a horse and you like fried seafood of all which bring you to a main road. Walk anticlockwise
types, then you should try the Plato Variado in Abaceria around the roundabout, crossing two roads then turning
Alborea on Calle Jacinto, in Triana. The kiosk on the east side right on a footpath and left down to a large, run-down
carpark where you veer right and then left to cross
of Triana bridge does good churros y chocolate. If you need to the narrow bridge across the main branch of the
do some last-minute equipment shopping there's a small Guadalquivir. This route is marked with yellow arrows
Decathlon outdoor shop in the city centre on Calle Rioja and a but they're easy to miss in the city. Once outside the
bigger one in Camas, follow the Camino to get there, you'll see city they become easier to spot.
3km / ¾hr, just after crossing the narrow bridge over
it on your left after crossing the bridge to Camas, both closed the main branch of the Guardalquivir, you have the
Sundays. option to continue straight to pass through the suburb
Seville is a historic city whose architectural heritage reflects the of Camas, or to go right along the bank of the river,
to bypass it (muddy after wet weather). Don't let the
cultural influences of Roman, Islamic and Christian civilisation. grimness of this first part get you down, things
The Tourist Office on Avenida de la Constitución has tourist improve once you're out of the city.
maps and information about the various sights. The highlights RIGHT / RIVER ROUTE 5km / 1¼hr...
are the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede. Completed in the Walk along the banks of the river for about 1km / ¼hr
16th century it is said to be the largest cathedral in the world. It then follow a lane as it veers left. In about 1km /
¼hr you'll pass under an elevated road then continue
is mostly Gothic with other influences. Its bell tower, La straight under railway tracks and a motorway then
Giralda, was originally the minaret of a mosque. Christopher right to join a main road which you follow to the left
Columbus remains were moved here from Cuba in 1903. The to a roundabout where you rejoin the left route and
Alcázar Palace and Gardens were build as a home for the turn right towards Santiponce. This route passes
through some run down, deserted areas and not everyone
rulers of Muslim Al-Andalus. The palace is considered to be the will feel comfortable walking it on their own. You may
best example of Mudéjar architecture in existence. Its walled encounter cute donkeys and unfortunately also loose
gardens, with their extensive use of flowing water, are a dogs.
beautiful example of the type of garden design introduced to

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

6km / 1½hrs to Santiponce from where the routes supermarket which is open all day, and a bakery which opens
divide.
about 07:00, past them is a pharmacy. Banks on Plaza España
LEFT ROUTE 5km / 1¼hr... and Calle Fleming. Alternative accommodation in Hostal
2km / ½hr to Camas from where the routes divide,
shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. In Camas turn right on Francés on Avenida de Andalucía, single en suite with air
to Calle José Payán and follow this until you come to conditioning for 15€. Tel: 639 594 496 website:
the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia where you take the www.hostalbarfrances.com. They also do meals. La Casa del
street to its left, also called Santa Maria de Gracia. Pueblo has been recommended for food.
From here the Camino continues straight along the side Leaving town walk right from the municipal hostel on
of a busy main road through suburbs and industrial Avenida de la Vega and then first right down a road to
areas, through two roundabouts until after 4km / 1hr a river which you cross and then up the slope to the
you come to Santiponce. left, past a roundabout, through an industrial area,
RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN and eventually into open country.
Just before Castilblanco the Camino goes left at a
BEFORE... roundabout and follows Avenida España through town.
Santiponce, shops, cafés, bank, pharmacy. Continue straight at this roundabout for the municipal
The newly restored Monesterio de San Isidoro in Santiponce hostel.
can be visited (free for pilgrims). They have a sello (stamp). The
ruins of the Roman city of Italica are nearby and can also be
18km / 4½ hrs to Castilblanco de los
visited. This is the birthplace of the Emperor Hadrian, best Arroyos
known for the construction of the wall which marked the Municipal hostel (30, donativo, March to October) Continue
northern limits of Roman control in Britain. straight where the Camino branches left, it's just past the Repsol
13km / 3¼hrs to Guillena from Santiponce. petrol station on the right. It may be staffed during busy times
Continue north on the main road through Santiponce,
right at a roundabout and under the motorway and then by volunteer hospitaleros from various countries, otherwise ask
veer left where the Camino leaves the road and for the code to open the door at Repsol. Basic kitchen. Loads of
continues on a lane through fields (the alternative space with a big balcony. Website:
route, see below, continues along the road at this
point). There's a stream you need to ford which may be
www.alberguecastilblancodelosarroyos.blogspot.com.es
difficult after rain. If the water is too deep to Shop on Calle de Frederic García Lorca, opposite Repsol.
cross look up and downstream for easier crossing Avenida de España, which the Camino follows through town,
places or flag down a passing tractor or Jeep and ask has a shop (on the left at the beginning), bakery, bank and
them to drop you on the other side.
Before Guillena you walk along the steep banks of a pharmacy (both opposite the entrance to the church), post office,
badly polluted stream, then arrows point left towards and cafés. El Rincón de Beni on Calle Pilar Nuevo, does good
the private hostel (a little off the Camino) and right food with vegetarian options on request, and Bar Lucas, near
towards the municipal hostel. the church, has also been recommended. The Tourist
Occasionally after prolonged heavy rain this stream
can be badly flooded and only passible by wading Information Office issues Credenciales.
through waist deep water. At these times the Amigos Alternative accommodation: guest-house Casa Salvadora,
del Camino in Seville recommend an alternative route. Avenida de España, 43, phone: 615 500 962, cosy singles from
It adds about 5km to the walk between Seville and
Guillena. It's shown on map 1 labelled 'Alternative
14€. The palatial Hotel Castillo Blanco, on the right just before
Route'. It is reported to be well waymarked. the town, singles from 30€, website hotelcastilloblanco.com
You can either follow the Camino or the main road
Several years ago there were some unconfirmed reports of through Castilblanco. The Camino then continues north
pilgrims being robbed on the outskirts of Seville and confirmed along the main road towards Almadén.
reports of female pilgrims being harassed in the same area. This 'stage from hell' to Almadén is long and tiring
Although there have been no reported problems in recent years and mostly along the side of a blessedly quiet road.
Continue on the road for 16km / 4hrs until you come to
precaution is still advisable, especially if you're alone. Please a place known as Finca el Berrocal where you will see
remember that there are ATMs in Guillena, so there's no need arrows pointing through a gate on the right into the
for you to carry more cash than you need for the day. Parque Natural Sierra Norte. From here it's unpaved
paths to Almadén. If the main gate is closed there's
23km / 5¾ hrs to Guillena another pedestrian gate to the right which may be open
Private hostel (18, 12€ with breakfast) Albergue Luz del (it is not visible from the road). Keep some high-
energy food or drink in reserve for the last couple of
Camino on Calle Federico García Lorca, the main road at the kilometres where there's a steep hill which ascends
start of the village. To the left of the Camino. Kitchen, laundry abruptly about 100m. Alternatively you can follow the
facilities. Positive reports. Tel 955 785 262 road all the way to Almadén, it's slightly longer but
an easier climb.
Municipal hostel (34, 10€) Albergue Municipal, in the Sports
Centre / Polideportivo on Avenida de la Vega. Passing Plaza de 29km / 7¼ hrs to Almadén de la Plata
España where there are banks and a shop, continue straight past Private hostel (12, 10€) Albergue del Peregrino on your left
the office of the Policía Local, down the hill until you see a after coming down the hill into the village. Kitchen, wood
large gate in a high wall on the right through which you will see burning stove. A bit basic. New in 2015. Tel: 654 862 553
a mini-soccer pitch and the café. Enter here and it's past the café Private hostel (6, 10€) La Casa del Raloj on the Camino going
on the left. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Usually open from 14:00. through the village on Plaza del Reloj. Laundry Facilities,
Tel 672 373 099 or the phone number posted on the door. If it's kitchen. Breakfast 2€. Tel: 692 552 659 Website:
not open call and ask for la llave del albergue / the key of the www.eulate.net/ruraltellez
hostel. Website: www.guillena.org Private hostel (8, 12€) Albergue Casa Clara on Plaza de la
There are shops and cafés along Avenida de Andalucía, which is Constitución, beside the church. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Café
the main road through town. Just off the roundabout is a Mas / restaurant. New in 2017. Tel 665 617 723 or 625 345 713

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
Municipal hostel (16, 10€) Follow the Camino through the
village until you see the Albergue Municipal signs. It's on Calle
Puerto de la Cruz, a few minutes walk from the Camino.
Contact the hospitalera on arrival by calling the number on the
door. She comes around later to stamp Credenciales. Kitchen.
The ground floor is reserved for pilgrims although there's loads
more beds upstairs. Tel 615 548 597 Website:
www.almadendelaplata.es
Follow the Camino past the distinctive town hall with its purple
tower, through Plaza del Reloj, then veering left to Plaza de la
Palmera. Here standing with your back to the pharmacy the
supermarket is up the street on your right and the bank is up the
street on your left. Café La Morena to your left opens early.
Restaurant La Espuela does a pilgrim menu for 8€. Good
reports of Restaurant La Murilla, beside the church and Bar La
Chorla. Hostal Concha has rooms for 20€ and a restaurant. Tel
954 735 043 or 659 459 938. Hostal El Romeral, opposite the
bank, also has rooms. Tel 653 092 163
The Camino is well signposted through the village with Some misleading waymarkings on this stretch - follow
signs and yellow arrows.
14km / 3½ hrs to El Real de la Jara
Municipal hostel (32, 10€) El Realejo. It's the first building you the official markings. If you can't find any markings
come to on the left when you arrive in the village. Check for
instructions on the door which usually direct you to the Tourist
Information Office to get the key. Kitchen with microwaves,
fireplace. Tel 954 733 007
Private hostel (12, 10€) Alojamiento del Peregrino a little past
the municipal hostel on the right. Kitchen, laundry facilities,
nice roof terrace. Good reports. Tel: 654 862 553
Shop, cafés, bank and a bakery on the Camino as it passes
through Plaza España and Calle Real. Avenida 28 de Febrero,
which is left of the Camino from Plaza España, has more shops,
cafés, a bank and the post office.
Mason Restaurante La Encina, 20€ has private rooms and
reportedly good food. It's past the municipal hostel and at the
bottom of the street turn left and follow the signs through an
industrial park. Tel: 625 998 300 or 693 866 646. Guesthouse
Alojamiento Molina at 70 Calle Real had nice rooms from 10€.
Tel: 954 733 053 or 607 742 350
Mesón La Cochera, opposite the church, does good food. The
café in Casa de la Cultura has also been recommended. The
cafés on Plaza de España open early.
El Real's impressive castle is of uncertain origin although it may
have been one of a series which protected the northern limits of
Al-Andaluz. Later it was used to defend against the Portuguese
who had designs on this region. Today it is used as an outdoor
theatre. From its walls you can see several other castles in this
defensive line.
1km / ¼ hr you cross a stream which marks the border
with Extremadura.
12km / 3hrs to the A-66 motorway where there is a 24
hour service station with a hotel and café /
restaurant.
Be careful crossing the various roads here. Yellow
arrows are a bit scarce, at the roundabout take the
road under the motorway signposted Monesterio.
20km / 5 hrs to Monesterio
Parish hostel (14, 10€) Albergue Parroquial de Monesterio on
the Camino on the left, at 218 Avenida Extremadura. Kitchen.
Nice hostel, modern and clean with good facilities. Tel 924 516
097
Municipal hostel (50, 10€) Albergue Las Moreras on Calle
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Ronda Segura de León, signposted left just before the Parish
Hostel and follow the signs. It's about a 10 minute walk.
Kitchen, laundry facilities. Open to non pilgrims. Tel 647 234
400 Website: www.alberguemonesterio.com
Cafés, shops, banks and pharmacies are all to be found along the
Camino as it follows Avenida Extremadura through town.
Supermarket just past the Parish Hostel on left. The Tourist
Information Office has information about the Camino, ask for
their Guia Del Caminante. Good reports about restaurant el
Rinconcillo which is near the end of Avenida Extremadura, on
Plaza de Triana. El Melli, just past the Parish Hostel opens early
with freshly made, country style churros: Across the road, Café
La Paca opens at 07:00.
There are various other accommodation options, many of them
along Avenida Extremadura. Hostal Moya on the left, 25€ for a
single room. Hostal Extremadura further along on the right,
15€. Hotel Leo, at the end of the town on the main road has
singles for 25€. Tel: 924 516 428.
the yellow arrows in preference to any 'official'
markings, however there are places where the yellow
arrows are scarce in which case you'll have to rely on
remember that you need to head north.
21km / 5¼ hrs to Fuente de Cantos
Municipal hostel (31, 12€) Albergue Convento Vía de la Plata
at the end of Calle Fraile, signposted to the left at the beginning
of town. In a renovated convent, with a tower which is visible
from some distance. Kitchen. Good reports. Tel 924 500 397
Private hostel (20, 15€ with breakfast) El Zaguan de la Plata
on Calle Llerena 40, from the Camino turn right at the church.
Kitchen, laundry facilities, outdoor swimming pool.
Recommended by several recent pilgrims. Website:
www.elzaguandelaplata.esTel: 924 500 999 or 678 277 716.
Small shop and pharmacy near the church, Dia supermarket on
Calle Carriceros, left of the Camino, open 09:00 to 21:00. Cafés
and several banks and a post office on Calle Llerena (right at the
church) and on Plaza Zubaran (at the top of Calle Llerena).
Restaurante El Gato, does a good pilgrim menu, continue
straight up Calle Llerena to the main road and turn left.
Restaurante Asador on Calle Iglesia, beside the church, has
also been recommended.
Hotel La Fabrica at Calle Real 117, has nice rooms for 41€.
Tel: 924 500 042, website www.hrlafabrica.com
6km / 1½hrs to Calzadilla de los Barros, where the
Camino passes through the main square, Plaza España,
where there is a shop and a bank. A little further on
is another shop and a pharmacy. Hostal Los Rodriguez
on the main road about 500m, off the Camino has rooms
from 10€ and a café / restaurant. Tel 924 584 808.
3km / ¾hr after Calzadilla, shortly after reaching the
main road the Camino turns left. There is an
alternative left turn about 200m before this one but
it is frequently flooded after rain (not shown on the
map).
20km / 5 hrs to Puebla de Sancho Pérez
Municipal hostel (18, 10€) Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata /
Le Hermita 1km to the left of the Camino, signposted. Kitchen
and café. Previously only available to groups but now reported
open to all comers. Tel: 690 059 089 or 685 742 787
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

Shops, cafés, banks, all on the Camino. However they take their church tower, la Torre de San Francisco, and then into
open country.
siesta very seriously. Café Abadia, left at the church, is usually
La Torre de San Francisco is all that remains of an extensive
open.
complex of religious buildings dating from the 15th century.
Hostal El Mesón has been recommended for dinner and
The hill in front of you is called the Sierra de los Olivos. It is a
sleeping. Hostal el Monte, has been recently recommended, it's
nature conservation zone famous for its orchids.
on Calle San Antonio, signposted to the right about 500m.
Doubles from about 36€. They also have a restaurant which is 5km / 1¼ hrs to Los Santos de Maimona
reported good. Tel: 924 575 581 Municipal hostel (8, 7€) Albergue Turístico, on Calle
There are two possible routes from here to Zafra. Maestrazgo. Kitchen. During the week get the key from the
UPDATE In 2016 the right route was closed at the
railway station. There is no news of it reopening. Tourist Office, on Plaza de España. Tel 924 544 801. When
The right route follows a quiet road before turning they're closed go to the Policía Local on Avenida de la
left to follow the railway tracks through the old Constitución. Newly renovated in 2015 and available all year.
railway station, coming out on Avenida de la Estación,
which you follow straight into town. The yellow arrows
Tel 924 544 294.
around the old station have clearly been positioned to Shop, on the Camino just past the church. On Plaza España, in
prevent you crossing the tracks because they do a loop front of the church, is a café, Asociación de Agriculturos on
around the station and then come back along the tracks the right and Tourist Office in the Ayuntamiento, also on the
to the only gate which is open.
The left route follows a busier road and rejoins the right (with public toilet). Further along the Camino are banks.
right route just outside the railway station. (beware The Camino arrives in front of the church on Plaza
España, and then passes to its left. Thanks to the
strange arrows pointing you left off the man road!)
Distance wise they're almost the same. local Amigos for their massive yellow arrows!

15km / 3¾ hrs to Villafranca de los Barros

If you find this guide useful please consider making a Private hostel (12, 12€ or 15€ with breakfast) Albergue Las
donation towards its upkeep. Your contribution will help Caballeras on Calle las Caballeras, on the right at the beginning
ensure that it will still be kept up-to-date and made of the town. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Good reports. New in
available free to future pilgrims. Also, for a US$5 donation 2015. Tel 924 523 973
you’ll be able to download PDF copies of the full version of Private hostel (12, 10€ or 12€ with breakfast) Albergue El
this guide (with maps, altitude profiles, etc.) and a copy of Carmen on Calle Carmen, which is to the right of the Camino
our best-selling Practical Prepartion book, with everything from the Municipal Market / Mercado Municipal. Laundry
you need to know before you set off. See our website: facilities, kitchen. Good reports. Tel 665 962 628 Website:
www.caminoguide.net www.alberguezafra.blogspot.com.es
Private hostel (12, 10€) Albergue Tierra de Barros on Calle
Nueva, signposted from the Camino. Kitchen.
4km / 1 hr to Zafra Private hostel (18, 10€ or 12€ with breakfast) Albergue
Amigos del Camino hostel (30, donativo) Albergue de la Extrenatura on Calle Carvajales, near Plaza España. Kitchen,
Asociación de Amigos del Camino, on the right on Avenida de la laundry facilities. Tel 656 314 025 Website
Estación, on the Camino after the railway station. Laundry www.alojamientoextrenatura.es
facilities, kitchen. In a wonderfully preserved traditional old The Camino arrives in town at Plaza Mercado with the
house. Tel 924 969 123 Municipal Market / Mercado Municipal on the corner on your
Municipal hostel (20, 10€ or 12€ with breakfast) Albergue right. Turn left here on to Calle Lepanto, which is the town's
Convento San Francisco, On Calle Ancha. Follow the Camino main street, with two supermarkets, cafés, banks and
through the town to get here. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Tel 691 pharmacies.
537 283 Hotel Diana has a restaurant which is recommended and a café
Dia supermarket just before the Amigos hostel. Other shops, which is open from 07:00. Also Jero's Restaurant, on Plaza
cafés, banks, pharmacies, etc. all on the Camino as it winds its España, opposite the church, does a good menu.
way through Zafra's beautiful town centre. La Barca on on Alternative accommodation include: Casa Perín, 20€ for an
Avenida de la Estación, does a good pilgrim menu. Also, individual room, possibly cheaper for groups. Follow the
Restaurante La Rebotica on Calle Boticas, comes highly Camino through town until you get to Plaza de la Coronada,
recommended, although it’s not cheap. where there is a church on your left, it's on your right on the
The centre of Zafra is a joy and it's worth it to take the time to corner. Tel 646 179 914. Hotel Diana on Calle Lepanto, has
explore it. Besides the many beautiful buildings from the 18th nice rooms from 30€. Tel: 924 520 502 website:
and 19th centuries, also worth seeing are the twin Plaza Grande www.hoteldiana.es
and Plaza Chica, with their interconnecting passageway, the 12km / 3hrs of this stretch follows the dead-straight
path of a Roman road.
Arquillo del Pan, accessible from the north west corner of Plaza
Grande, and the 16th century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la 27km / 6¾ hrs to Torremejía
Candelaria. Municipal hostel (23, 12€ or 14€ with breakfast) Palacio de
From the railway station the Camino runs straight up los Lastra, just opposite the main entrance to the church in a
Avenida de la Estación, diagonally across Plaza España
then down pedestrianised Calle Sevilla, to the centre beautifully renovated historic building. If it's closed go to
of town at Plaza Grande, which it crosses on to Calle Asador Puerta de Barros or look for instructions on the door.
Tetuán before turning north along Calle Conde de la Recently reopened after renovation. Basic kitchen with
Corte and then veering left and, at the municipal
hostel, right on to Calle Ancha then Calle San
microwave. Restaurant on ground floor. Tel 924 340 070
Francisco, straight across a roundabout towards a Private hostel (18, 10€ with breakfast) Albergue Rojo Plata on

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

Calle José de Espronceda, signposted from the Camino. It has The building next to the municipal hostel houses a café however
the same owners as the café / restaurant Mesón El Gitano which it may not always be open.
opens at 06:00 for breakfast. Tel 924 341 051 The village church, Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la
There are cafés and a small shop on the main road and a Día Consolación, is worth the short detour. It has a Renaissance
supermarket in the same building as Hotel Melenium. main entrance.
Alternative accommodation in Hotel Melenium on the main 3km / ¾ hr to Aljucén
road, singles 20€. They have a restaurant that does an evening
Private hostel (14, 10€, 12€ with breakfast, February to
meal.
Follow the main road for about 400m north until a sign November) Albergue Turístico Río Aljucén, on the Camino on
indicates to join a path on the right. It's a more-or- the right. Kitchen, laundry facilities. In a nicely renovated
less straight run into Mérida. farmhouse. A welcoming family-run albergue. Good breakfast.
15km / 3¾ hrs to Mérida Website: www.alberguerioaljucen.com Tel 924 349 456
Municipal hostel (20, 8€) Molino de Pan Caliente. Turn left Private hostel (15, 10€) Albergue Annalena, if it isn't open
after crossing the Roman Bridge / Puente Romano, the hostel is there should be a note with contact details on the door. Kitchen.
past the new bridge, to the left of the road beside the river. A little basic. Tel 616 515 195
Vending machine for coffee, etc. Contact details posted on the All three cafés do food. Hogar del Pensionista and Kiosko El
door. The key is sometime hidden on one of the window ledges, Parque are both reported good. There's a shop but it's only open
if you phone they will direct you to the spot. It's best not to from 10:00 to 14:00. The Roman baths do a pilgrim discount,
leave the key outside when you go to bed, there have been some see www.aqualibera.com
The Camino leaves town in either direction on the main
reports of unexpected visitors during the night. street.
Mérida, with a population of 57,000, is the capital of 16km / 4hrs If you're interested in architecture and historic
Extremadura. All facilities are available. Supermarket on Calle sights you may like to make a detour to the Basilica de Santa
Jesé R Mélide, open 7 days. Banks on Plaza de España and Lucía. It's about 3km off the Camino to the right. It's a 7th
along Calle F Valverde Lillo which runs north from it. century church in Visigothic style, one of the few remaining.
Restaurant Mesón El Pestoreje on Plaza de España has been From there it's a 3km / ¾hr walk along quiet roads to to Aljúcen.
recommended. Also good reports of Casa Nano on Calle 200m later: turnoff for Albergue Turistico Los Olivos.
Castelar. April 2017, reports of misleading signposting at this
junction! When you see a sign pointing left towards
Hostal Senero on Calle Holguín has clean rooms with shared Puerto de la Herrerias, at this point the Vía,
bathroom. Singles from about €28. Tel 924 317 207, website directly to Alcuéscar, goes RIGHT. From this sign it's
www.hostalsenero.com 3km / ¾hr to Alcuéscar.
Mérida was founded by the Romans in the first century BC and 100m after this turn-off on the left branch is guesthouse Finca
named Emerita Augusta. To this day it has many well-preserved El Chorrillo. They have rooms from 25€ and also houses to rent
relics of its Roman history. The Roman Bridge / Puente for groups. Details from their website
Romano, which you will cross when arriving, at 790m, is the www.holidayextremadura.com or tel 608 828 742 or 645 841
longest Roman bridge still in existence. At its northern end is the 857
Alcazaba, a fortification built by the Muslims. The Roman 19km / 4¾ hrs to Alcuéscar
Theatre dates from 15BC and is one of the best preserved Private hostel (20, 17€ with breakfast) Albergue Turístico Los
examples still standing. Nearby is the amphitheatre, scene of Olivos, signposted 'Hostal' from the Camino 3km / ¾ hr before
gladiatorial combats and other popular entertainment, is also the town. It's 500m off the Camino, beside a big Repsol petrol
well-preserved. It could hold 16,000 spectators. The Circus, station. From there you can follow the road to Alcuéscar in
which was used for horse and carriage racing, could hold 30,000 about 2km. Comfortable, modern hostel. Opened in 2016. They
spectators. These sights are all a little to the east of the city also have a hotel with a café / restaurant, rooms from 25€. Tel:
centre. There's also a museum of Roman art and several temples 927 384 001
to Roman Gods. More information form the city's tourist Religious hostel (12, donativo) Los Esclavos de Maria y los
website: www.turismomerida.org/en Pobres, in a monastery on your left before the town. Evening
Leaving town on the Camino, there's a shop, at the roundabout meal provided. Run by volunteer hospitaleros. Tel 651 323 466
about 860m from the pilgrim hostel, follow the sign that says Private hostel (7, 13€) Casa Peregrina, on Calle Fuente la
'Farmacía 24h' and veer left. Also at this roundabout, Bar Orden, right off Avenida Constitución. Laundry facilities.
Acueducto opens at 06:30 (an hour later on Sundays). Evening meal. Run by an ex-pilgrim. Phone the day before to
6km / 1½hrs to Proserpina, cafés. Pass straight
through a roundabout and take a left fork signposted check if it's open. Tel 686 902 879
as a cul-de-sac. Then follow a track which skirts the There's a Coviran supermarket and a Pastelería up Avenida
reservoir until it rejoins the road and continues Constitución, past café Alta Cuesta. First right after Coviran, on
north.
After the Proserpina, follow a small road for about Calle Hernandez Pacheco is a bank.
4km until just before it turns right over a bridge, Restaurante Casa Alejandro, on Calle Profesor Hernández
the Camino goes left on to a sandy lane, clearly Pacheco, has been recommended by several pilgrims. The food
marked with yellow arrows on a tree. It continues on
unpaved lanes until...
in Alta Cuesta isn't great, however they do open for breakfast.
The Camino continues left just after the monastery.
14km / 3½ hrs to El Carrascalejo Its main square with its town hall and church reflect
a sparce, almost utilitarian architecture, slightly at
Municipal hostel (24, 12€) El Carrascalejo on the right on the odds with the Franco era.
Camino. Kitchen with microwave. New in 2016. Tel 616 515 8km / 2hrs to Casas de Don Antonio, the Camino
195 or 665 766 812 bypasses the village. There's a café in the Centro

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
Social which also sells bread and basic groceries, and
a pharmacy nearby.
7km / 1¾ to Aldea del Cano. The Camino bypasses the
village of Aldea del Cano which is a little to the
right.
15km / 3¾ hrs to Aldea del Cano
Municipal hostel (13, 6€) Miliario del Verdinal. Ask in
Restaurante Las Vegas for the key, it's right next door. Kitchen, Romanesque and Gothic influences, and the Church of St
laundry facilities. 9 beds, 4 mattresses. Beautiful hostel. Tel 927 James / Iglesia de Santiago, which also has Romanesque and
383 004
Restaurante Las Vegas does a good menú del día and opens at
08:00, as does the café next to the hostel. Several small shops,
two on the street directly across the main road from the hostel of
which UDACO has a good selection, and another on Calle
Nueva. Pharmacy on the square in front of the church.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Valdesalor
Municipal hostel (14, 6€) at the beginning of the town on the
left. Kitchen with microwaves and laundry facilities. Keys from
the Town Hall / Ayuntamiento, or the Retirement Home / Hogar
del Pensionista, depending on the day, details posted beside the
door. Tel 927 129 711 Website www.valdesalor.es
Small shop in the village and two cafés. The restaurant at the
Repsol petrol station does a menú del día. They're open for
breakfast. Guesthouse Pensión Conchi has been recommended,
from 15€ per person in double rooms, tel 610 673 513.
Valdesalor is a new town constructed in the 1960s.
From Valdesalor continue north on the right side of
the main road. Waymarking isn't great here but
basically, the Camino meanders parallel to this road
for about 5km / 1¼hrs, where it heads off into open
country before arriving in the suburbs of Cáceres.
12km / 3 hrs to Cáceres
Private hostel (40, 15€ or 18€ with breakfast) Las Veletas, at
Calle General Margallo 36, on the Camino after Plaza Mayor
and left. Laundry facilities. Very good reports. Tel 927 211 210
Municipal hostel (70, 16€ or 18€ with breakfast) Albergue
Municipal Ciudad de Cáceres, on Avenida de la Universidad.
From the Camino at Iglesia de Santiago, walk down Calle Sande
and continue straight for about 400m until you see the entrance
on the right. Tel 927 102 001
Cáceres, with a population of 96,000 people is the second
largest city in Extremadura (after Badajoz). It has all facilities.
There are several supermarkets on or near the Camino entering
the city (on the way out of the city there are none). In the centre
there are supermarkets on Calle Ceres and on Calle Antonio
Silva off Avenida España. At the north end of Plaza Mayor is a
pharmacy. From Plaza San Juan, down Calle San Pedro are
banks, with more banks on Avenida de España. On Calle
Pintores is a City Decathlon and several other shops selling
hiking gear and shoes. The Tourist Information Office is in the
old city opposite the cathedral.
Restaurant El Figón de Eustaquio on Plaza de San Juan
serves excellent quality local cuisine, if you feel like splashing
out. Restaurant Centro, also on Plaza San Juan has a good,
moderately priced menu with local specialities.
Alternative accommodation in Hotel Don Carlos on Calle
Pizarro, singles from 35€.
Cáceres was founded by the Romans in the first century BC and
named Norba Caesarina. Its prosperity waned with the decline
of the Roman Empire and after it was sacked by the Visigoths in
the 5th century it became an insignificant way-station on the Vía
de la Plata. The Muslims established a military base here in the
Page 6
12th century and build the city walls, which didn't prevent it
falling to the Christians soon afterwards.
The Camino passes through Cáceres' walled old city which is
just to the east of Plaza Mayor. There are many historic
buildings to see such as the Muslim era Torre Bujaco
overlooking Plaza Mayor, the cathedral of Santa María with
Gothic influences.
The Camino turns right at Plaza San Francisco and
enters the walled old city from the east. It turns
right at the cathedral and leaves the old city on to
Plazuela de Santiago. At Iglesia de / Church of
Santiago it veers left and continues north out of the
city along Calle de Zapataría, passing to the left of
the bullring, from where you can easily pick up the
waymarkings.
Between here and Casar de Cáceres the Camino runs
parallel to a busy main road, although most of the
time you're walking on a path some distance away.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Casar de Cáceres
Municipal hostel (18, donativo) Follow the Camino into town
until you come to the Town Hall / Ayuntamiento on your right,
the hostel's on your left. Ask in Bar Majuca or Bar El Siglo for
the keys, or, if closed, the local police. Kitchen, laundry
facilities. The first room suffers from being too close to the
toilets with their noisy extractor fan. Possibly also earplugs
needed at weekends due to the town's riotous night-life.
Día supermarket on the Camino on the way into town. Cafés,
shops, banks and a pharmacy on the Camino.
Bar Majuca is friendly and does good food. A Churrería on
Calle Barrio Nuevo opens at 06:00, from the door of the hostel
pass through the arch opposite and take the first left.
If you like cheese don't miss the Cheese Museum / Museo del
Queso, which is open in the evenings.
Continue north along the main street to leave town.
2km / ½ hr out, where there's a small round building
with a pointed roof, take the right fork.
14km / 3½hrs from Casar there is a diversion of about
2km due to AVE works (although possibly longer because
the flagman who directs traffic is in the habit of
directing pilgrims on to the road rather then back to
the Camino). The footbridge for pilgrims looks like
it's nearing completion so hopefully this diversion
will disappear in the near future. (The situation with
AVE works is constantly changing, if you have more up-
to-date information to what's given here please don't
hesitate to drop us an email at
caminoguidecontactmail.com) Map 10 shows the route
without the diversion and following the road. There is
an off-road option a short distance to the right of
the road.
After crossing the second road bridge a footpath leads
right up the hill. You can go this way if you're
continuing to Cañaveral. However, you can also
continue on the road for a little more, as far as the
turnoff for the hostel at Embalse de Alcántara.
22km / 5½ hrs to Embalse de Alcántara
Municipal hostel (26, 15€ with breakfast, March to October)
About 600m to the left of the Camino. Magnificent building and
setting beside the reservoir. Basic food available in their café.
Accepts tourists as well as pilgrims.
Website:www.embalsedealcantara.com Tel: 664 262 742
The guest house on the main road, Alcántara, Pesca, Evasión,
has single rooms for 25€ and doubles for 40€, breakfast
included. They have a swimming pool. They fill up quickly
when the municipal hostel is closed. They also prefer dealing
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

with groups and may be reluctant to open for individuals. Tel:
927 090 510. Website: www.alcantarapescaevasion.com
From Embalse you can either follow the official Camino
on a track up the hill away from the road or you can From Ríolobos, you can either continue on the
also continue on the road (N-630) all the way to alternative route by following the road left for 8km /
Cañaveral (easiest). 2hrs to Galisteo or return to the original route by
10km / 2½ hrs to Cañaveral turning right, past Camping Las Catalinas, for about
3km / ¾ hr, until you join the original route where it
Private hostel (20, 18€ with breakfast, in winter check leaves the road to the left, from where it's 6km / 1½
availability) Hostel Cañaveral on the Camino on the right. hrs to Galisteo.
They also do evening meals. In a modern building with heating
and air conditioning. Website: www.hostelcanaveral.com Tel
669 402 446 Email reservas@hostelcanaveral.com
Cafés and a shop on the main road and several more cafés and
banks, on the way to the church, along Calle Real. A Churrería
at the corner of Calle Real and the main road, is open in the
morning and does churros the traditional way (chunky). Posada
La Campana, on the main square near the Ayuntamiento /
Town Hall, rents rooms. Tel 616 569 434. Hostal Málaga, on
the main road at near the end of the town is reported to be under
new management and much improved. Sigles from about 20€,
doubles 40€. Tel 927 300 067
There is some confusion about the route immediately
after Cañaveral. Following the main road north there
are several smaller roads and lanes which you can take
to the left. Waymarkings are unclear or missing.
Whichever one you take it should ascend gently at
first and then more steeply, before descending to a
road which you cross and veer right to pass through
the car park of a strip joint (El Puerto, closed
during daylight hours), veering left to follow the
yellow arrows on a path through a wood.
The village of Grimaldo is 1km off the Camino to the
right at a clearly signposted junction 6km / 1½ hrs
after Cañaveral.
8km / 2 hrs to turnoff for Grimaldo
Municipal hostel (15, donativo) Beside Bar Grimaldo on the
main road. Laundry facilities. The hospitalera does meals and
breakfast in Bar Grimaldo (ask there for the key). Good reports
of the hostel and the village.
Café.
La Posada de Grimaldo has been highly recommended as an
alternative to the pilgrim hostel. It does a special pilgrim price
of 20€ per person, breakfast included. Website:
www.laposadadegrimaldo.es
In 2012, due to a right-of-way dispute, the Camino's
route was changed to pass through the village of
Ríolobos. Thankfully this dispute has now been
resolved and the original route is open again.
However, the place where the routes divide, at a place
called Cuatro Términos, 9km / 2¼hrs after the turnoff
for Grimaldo, is still clearly signposted. Turning
left at Cuatro Términos takes you to Ríolobos in 4km /
1hr. See map 11.
From Cuatro Términos continue for 4km / 1hr, to where
you cross a canal and then turn right on to a road
which you briefly follow until the Camino goes left on
to a lane, from here it is 6km / 1½ hrs to Galisteo.
8km / 2 hrs to turnoff for Ríolobos
Private hostel (25, 15€, including breakfast) Camping Las
Catalinas on the main road to the right when you come down the
hill into the village. They also do an evening menu. If you chose
to stay here the friendly and helpful hospitalero in Camping Las
Catalinas will be happy to drop you back on the original route in
the morning. Website: www.campinglascatalinas.es
In the village there are two small shops and a bank and a
pharmacy, both near the church. Café La Pista, opens early. In
the park beside the albergue is an enormous duck pond.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Galisteo
That's 11km from the turnoff for Ríolobos.
Private hostel (8, 15€ with breakfast) Albergue Turístico de
Galisteo, on Calle Viña de Egido, up the alleyway to the right of
Bar Los Emigrantes. Under the management of the owner of
Camping Las Catalinas in Ríolobos. If this hostel is full they'll
provide free transport to and from Ríolobos. Tel 927 451 150
There is a pharmacy besides bar Los Emigrantes and another
shop and a pharmacy in the walled town just inside Puerta del
Reys. On Plaza de España there's a shop, a bank and a bakery.
Bar Los Emigrantes is a welcoming place and does good food
(including a Menú de Peregrinos for 8€) which pilgrims rave
about. They also rent rooms, singles 20€ and doubles 30€ with
breakfast. Hotel Medina Ghaliayah has rooms from 15€ and
also has a restaurant. Tel 927 450 406.
Galisteo is an impressive hilltop walled town. Its walls date
from the period of Muslim rule and are very well preserved. You
can walk along the tops of the walls although in places it's not
for the faint hearted.
From Bar Los Emigrantes walk up the hill towards the
walled town and continue walking with the town walls
to your right to the other side of the old town from
where you should be able to pick up the waymarkings
which lead steeply downhill and across an old bridge
over the Río Jerte, straight through a roundabout,
under the motorway and then right at another
roundabout to follow the paved road north to
Carcaboso.
6km / 1½ hrs Aldehuala del Jerte. Cafés.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Carcaboso
Private hostel (11, 11€) Albergue de Peregrinos Señora Elena
on the main road. Laundry facilities, kitchen with microwaves.
Also private rooms. Tel 927 402 075 This village also has a
municipal hostel but it is currently closed and there is no
news of it reopening.
Small supermarket on the right on the Camino at the beginning
of the village and another next to a small park further up the
road. Pharmacy on the Camino up a street on the right. Café Vía
de la Plata does evening meals and breakfast. Restaurante
Cáparradoes an excellent menú del día, and meals in the
evening. They also have rooms for 20€, good reports.
Leaving the village there's a poorly waymarked fork
where you need to go right. About 500m further on
where, for some reason, there's a sign on a post that
says Bombay, the Camino divides for a short while. The
left route is shorter.
12km / 3 hrs from Carcaboso at a house beside a road
known as Dehesa Ventaquemada, this is the turnoff for
Oliva de Placencia. Continue straight to arrive at the
ruins of the Roman city of Cáparra in 6km / 1½hrs, or
turn right and walk 6km / 1½hrs off the Camino, along
a quiet road, to Oliva de Plasencia...

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
12km / 3 hrs to turnoff for Oliva de
Plasencia
Municipal hostel (18, 15€) Albergue Vía Cáparra, down the
street opposite the Town Hall / Ayuntamiento and then right at a
square. They can collect from Ventaquemada or Cáparra. Tel
620 007 490
There's a shop opposite the Ayuntamiento but it doesn't open
every day. A café called Bar Cáparra downhill from the square
does good raciones and bocadillos.
Leaving Oliva you can take another signposted route
which takes you directly to Cáparra in 6km / 1½hrs.
Visiting Oliva means 6km of extra walking.
At the visitors centre in Cáparra there are public
toilets and vending machines for snacks and drinks.
The settlement which we know as the Roman city of Cáparra
probably has pre-Roman roots. It was possibly founded by the
Vetons, a (probably) Celtic tribe who inhabited this region
before the Roman conquest. The Arch of Cáparra marked the
centre of the city and is today the best preserved remnant of the
city, it was erected in the 1st century, during the Flavian dynasty.
On the route after Cáparra there are several rivers
which you cross using stepping-stones and which may be
extremely difficult to cross during periods of wet
weather. Please ask advice locally and don't attempt
dangerous river crossings - especially if you're on
your own. If it has been raining a lot your best bet
may be to follow the minor road north from Oliva de
Plasencia until it joins the N-630 near Villar de
Plasencia and then follow that north to where it
intersects with the Via near a tunnel under the
motorway.
8km / 2hrs after Cáparra, where the Camino runs along
the side of a road, you'll see yellow writing pointing
right 2km to Hostal Asturias, which is just on the
other side of the motorway. They have nice single
rooms from about 19€, a café and a good restaurant
with charcoal grill. They can collect you from Cáparra
if you wish, and drop you back there in the morning.
Tel: 927 477 057. Nearby is Hotel Jarilla, café /
restaurant. Tel: 927 477 040.
4km / 1hr you will pass underneath the motorway then
immediately see signs pointing left to ford a river.
This river is often too big to ford, in which case you
should cross the river on the bridge on your right and
continue on the road until you rejoin the Camino about
500m further on. You will pass under the motorway
three more times before Aldeaneuva.
At the sign which points right towards Via Pecuaria,
if you wish you can continue straight and walk along
the road to Aldeanueva. Otherwise you'll go right and
follow a slightly longer route through open
countryside to Aldeanueva.
27km / 6¾ hrs to Aldeanueva del Camino
That's 27km from the turnoff for Oliva de Placencia.
Municipal hostel (10, donativo) on Calle las Olivas on the
Camino shortly after entering the town. Fairly basic.
Private hostel (26, 13€) La Casa de mi Abuela on Calle
Alcázar, cross over a stone bridge and just after the
Ayuntamiento veer right. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Website
www.lacasademiabuela-albergue.com Tel: 692 531 587 or 630
410 740
A shop, a bank and several cafés on the Camino. Supermarket
on the main road, turn right at the park. Bar Sebas, on the main
road left after the park, does good food and starts serving in the
early evening. Bar España opens early.
Follow the Camino north to where it joins the main
road, at a roundabout (café) take the second exit and
cross over the motorway and veer left. The Camino to
Baños is along the side of the road, although there
Page 8
are some places where you can walk a little off the
road. About 2km / ½ hr out there's a bollard which
urges you to veer right on to a lane, ignore it and
stay on the road.
5km / 1¼ hr café.
The town of Hervás is about 4km / 1hr off the Camino to the
right. It's a beautiful hill-top town with one of the best-preserved
Jewish quarters in Spain. Well worth a visit. Visiting Hervás
would involve about 3km extra walking. It has no pilgrim
accommodation.
10km / 2½ hrs to Baños de Montemayor
Private hostel (12, 13€ with breakfast) To the right of the
Camino as you walk through town, at Calle Castañar 42.
Kitchen, laundry facilities. Tel 655 620 515
Small shop on the Camino opposite the Town Hall /
Ayuntamiento, and another a little further along the Camino.
Also cafés and a Churrería. Emedos Hostel has singles from
18€, it's on Calle Don Victoriano, which is left at the
Ayuntamiento. Tel 616 239 919 or 645 258 105 Website
www.emedoshostel.com
Turn sharp left after the Ayuntamiento and follow the
Camino as it winds its way through the village before
joining the Roman road up the side of the valley
towards the pass.
Ascent 200m in 3km to Puerto de Béjar. Entering
Castilla y León. Follow the road, with some small
deviations, to...
1km / ¼ hr to Peñacaballera, café and a petrol station
with a shop. The Albergue El Acebo is reported closed.
Shortly after the petrol station the Camino turns left
away from the road.
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12km / 3 hrs to Calzada de Béjar
Private hostel (24, 10€) Alba y Soraya, on your left as you enter
the village. Comfortable, spacious hostel. Fireplace, laundry
facilities. The friendly (and talkative) owner lives in the village
on the square beside the church. She will do a good evening
meal and breakfast on request. Also private rooms from 20€.
Tel: 646 410 643 or 606 958 145
There's a café across the square behind the church which does
snacks and meals (closed Tuesdays). A guesthouse on the
Camino called Calzada Romana has been recommended. It has
single rooms from 20€ and doubles from 30€, telephone 696 112
340, also meals.
9km / 2¼ hrs to Valverde de Valdelacasa
Private hostel (12, 6€) Albergue Nenúfar on Calle La Iglesia,
on the Camino on the left just before the church. Kitchen with
microwaves. There are more sleeping spaces when needed. It
isn't always available so check in advance. Website:
www.nenufar.nom.es. Tel 923 165 054 or 649 578 821
Municipal hostel (22, 10€) Albergue Santiago Apóstol on Calle
Real. Ask in the café for the key. In a newly renovated house
near the church. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Private rooms for
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

15€. The café owner takes holidays in November and overApproaching the city you'll pass under a road on to an
urban street, past a roundabout and into a run-down
Christmas, during these times call ahead to check availability.
park. Turn right and walk with a stream on your left
Tel 615 672 470 until you see a yellow arrow telling you to cross a
Café which does food, on the Camino at the end of the village.
footbridge, after which you turn right again and walk
4km / 1hr to Valdecasa, café which does food. About with the stream on your right until you see a tunnel
2km / ½hr after Valdecasa there is a junction with a for a walking and cycling track under a railway line,
lot of confusing yellow arrows. Basically you have two indicated by large yellow arrows. Follow this cycling
options, either continue on the road or take the lane path until you cross a road and approach the Roman
which veers left (not the one which goes left at a bridge over the river Duero.
right angle). Both routes bring you to Fuenteroble in Once over the bridge, cross the road and continue
approximately the same distance. uphill to the point where the right turn to the
municipal albergue is indicated with a metal Camino
12km / 3 hrs to Fuenterroble de sign set into the ground with the letter 'A'.

Salvatierra 19km / 4¾ hrs to Salamanca

Religious hostel (70, donativo) Walk through the village and Municipal hostel (18, donativo) Casa la Calera Follow the
it's on your right at a junction. Look for the massive white metal plates in the ground after crossing the bridge and climbing
crucifix. Sometimes a communal evening meal and breakfast. the hill into the old city. Those with 'A' point to the hostel.
Cafés on the Camino, shop a little to the left, signposted. Kitchen. Excellent hostel run by permanent staff and volunteers.
Pharmacy on the Camino on the right. Café Pesebre does tasty It usually opens at 17:00 however in off-peak times it's better to
meals from about 18:00. Café José has also been recommended. call one of the numbers on the door. If you arrive early you may
Casa Rural Arrieros Familia Garcia has single rooms from be able to drop your backpack off between 12:00 and 14:00.
20€ with breakfast. The owners live on the Camino at the start Salamanca, with a population of 228,000 is the largest city and
of the village however the guest accommodation is a short walk capital of the Province of Salamanca. The Camino passes
away. Tel 635 438 750 or 636 213 491 Casa Rural Paqui may through the city centre, close to the most important sights.
also have availability. Tel 649 602 340. Following the Camino, past the Cathedral, on the left is
There are two possible routes on this stage which Croissantaría Paris, which opens about 08:00 with coffee and
divide about 12km / 3hrs after Fuenterroble, at a gate
with a sign which says Dueña de Abajo. freshly baked pastries. A little further on the right opposite Casa
de la Concha is Carrefour supermarket, open 7 days. Then on
RIGHT ROUTE 18km / 4hrs... the left La Tahona de la Abuela which does excellent
From where the routes divide:
6km / 1½hrs to Pedrosilla de las Aires, café. empanadas (Galician pies with a variety of fillings, such as tuna
5km / 1¼hrs to Monterrubio de la Sierra, café. and chorizo). At Plaza Mayor, in the street to the left under the
7km / 1¾hrs to Morille. arcade, Calle de Prior, you'll find Café Bambu, easy-to-miss
LEFT ROUTE 20km / 4½hrs... entrance on the right down a flight of stairs, has an excellent
From where the routes divide walk uphill along a rough selection of tapas for 2€ with a drink. Continuing down Calle de
path, passing to the right of the windmills on the top
of Pico de la Dueña (1145m, highest point on the Prior to the right is Calle Iscar Peyra where there is a
Camino so far). Then steeply downhill on another rough Shawarma restaurant which also does Falafel, a Sushi
path before joining a road. restaurant and an Árbol supermarket. Back on Plaza Mayor, on
9km / 2¼hrs to Calzadilla de Mendigos, from the point
where the routes divide.
the left is the Tourist Office. Along the Camino there are
7km / 1¾hrs to... several banks and pharmacies and many other places to eat. Past
Plaza Mayor is a pharmacy that opens every day of the year.
28km / 7 hrs to San Pedro de Rozados Taberna Celta on Calle Peña Primera, has Camino links and a
Private hostel (10, 7€) Albergue Mari Carmen On Calle de northern Spanish ambient, with cider and excellent seafood
Oriente, ask for the key in VII Carreras restaurant. Basic. Tel tapas. There's a Decathlon outdoor equipment shop about a 40
923 344 075 minute walk from the centre, or get bus 20 to Santa Marta from
Private hostel (8, 10€) Casa Miliario, on Calle del Rosario, in Gran Vía, getting off at Leclerc supermarket.
the centre of the village. Kitchen with microwaves. Tel 638 149 Salamanca has two cathedrals. The old one dates from the 12th
852 century and is Romanesque in style, it's on the Camino on the
Shop and cafés close to both albergues. Pharmacy near the right just after the turnoff for the municipal hostel. Just past that
church. El Claveles restaurant has been recommended as has is the new cathedral, much bigger and Gothic. Further along the
VII Carreras. No breakfast till Morille. Camino on the left is the 15th century, Gothic, Casa de las
4km / 1hr to Morille.
Conchas, famous for the cockle shells adorning its façades. The
RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN... Plaza Mayor is Baroque and was built in the 18th century.
Morille There's an interesting exhibition on the Civil War on the right
Municipal hostel (6+24, 6€) Just to the left of the where you leave the Camino to go to the municipal hostel.
Ayuntamiento. Keys from Bar Isa next door, or if closed call the Salamanca's university is the oldest in Spain and the city
number on the door. The extra 24 beds are in another building currently houses 20,000 students. The Colegio del Arzobispo
which is opened when the first one is full. Fonseca used to be know as the Irish College because it's where
Cafés. Both Bar Marco and Bar Isa do food. Bar Isa is open in Irish priests were trained during the Penal Laws. There are many
the morning from about 09:00. other sites to see and a detailed map is available from the Tourist
10km / 2½hrs to Miranda de Azán, which is about 300m Information Office.
to the right of the Camino. Shop, café. However, Leaving Salamanca there are almost no waymarkings of
rumours of a pilgrim hostel are greatly exaggerated. any description. Luckily it's mostly straight all the
9km / 2¼hrs to Salamanca. way. From Plaza Mayor continue north along Calle
Zamora, then straight over a roundabout on to Paseo

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
Torres Vilarroel, continuing straight to another
roundabout where you veer left on to Avenida de
Borgoña, then straight through another roundabout by a
large Carrefour supermarket. Here the Camino crosses
to the right side of the road. Camino waymarkings
appear again here.
7km / 1¾ hrs to Aldeaseca de la Almuña, shop, café.
The Camino crosses to the right side of the main road
just after the village and then crosses it again to
arrive to...
5km / 1½ hrs to Castellanos de Villiquera, café, shop
by the church, pharmacy.
16km / 4 hrs to Calzada de Valdunciel
Municipal hostel (8, 5€) Follow the Camino through the
village, passing the Town Hall / Ayuntamiento, and turn right
just after the community centre just as you're about to come
back into open country. For the keys see the instructions on the good. The Tourist Office is near the cathedral.
door. Kitchen. Beautiful, cosy hostel. Tel 717 706 637
Cafés, shops, bank, pharmacy. Restaurante Joaquín does a
pilgrim menu. Guest house El Pozo has singles for 25€. They
also have a restaurant. Casa Rural Mari Carmen has singles
for 17€.
5km / 1½ hrs, cross under the motorway. After rain it the 13th century and is Romanesque. Nearby is the Castle, El
may be necessary to follow a short detour to avoid
getting your feet wet. It's clearly waymarked.
7km / 1¾ hrs to Huelmos
Private hostel (10, 10€) Albergue Casa Saso, to the left,
signposted. Dorm accommodation and tents for rent. Evening
meal and breakfast available. Swimming pool. Opened in March Mayor is the church of San Juan de Puerta Nueva, so called
2016. Tel 697 379 526
13km / 3¼ hrs to El Cubo de Tierra del
Vino
Private hostel (10, 11€) Albergue Torre de Sabre on Calle
Travesía de la Ermita, signposted to the right of the Camino.
Laundry facilities. Cramped dorms. They also do meals and a
basic breakfast. Tel: 633 424 321
Private hostel (10, 12€) Albergue F y M on Calle García de la
Serna, which is just left of the Camino. Kitchen. They also have
private rooms. Wine and tapas on arrival. Excellent reports. Tel:
685 808 085 Website: www.alberguefym.com
The Municipal hostel is reported closed.
Shop on Calle Garcia de la Serna, left off the Camino. Cafés,
pharmacy on the Camino. Café Bar El Charro, on the square
does meals and may open in the morning.
Continue down El Cubo's main street, cross the river
and then take a left.
13km / 3¼ hrs to Villanueva de Campeán
Municipal hostel (10, 6€) on Callejón del Señor, near the
church. Kitchen with microwaves. Directions for finding the key
are usually on the door, otherwise go to the Town Hall /
Ayuntamiento or ask locally. Tel 620 235 322
Private hostel (23, 6€) Albergue Vía de la Plata on Calle
Calzada. Laundry facilities. The owners also own Bar Vía de la
Plata. Ask there for the keys. Good reports. Tel 616 848 319
Café on the Camino. Alternative accommodation in the newly
opened La Posada del Buen Camino, on Calle Cruz 2, with
singles from 37€. They also do meals. Website:
www.laposadadelbuencamino.com
4km / 1hr to San Marcial, where the Camino turns right
abruptly. Straight ahead about 1km / ¼hr is the
village of San Marcial which has a busy café which
does food. From there you can rejoin the Camino by
following the road north for about 2km / ½hr.
Page 10
18km / 4½ hrs to Zamora
Municipal hostel (36, donativo) Follow the Camino in to town,
up a hill and it's around a sharp bend on the right. Kitchen.
Excellent facilities. Opens at 14:00.
Zamora has a population of 66,000 and is the capital and largest
town in the province of Zamora. It has all services. Shops, cafés,
banks and pharmacy on the Camino on or near Plaza Mayor.
Running south off Plaza Mayor is Calle de los Herreros with
two recommended tapas bars, Portillo de la Traicion and
Bayadoliz, although Bayadoliz's cryptic menu may make
ordering a bit random. La Bici Verde on Plaza Santa Eulalia is
recommended for platos combinados. For sweet things and
especially ice cream, La Valenciana on Calle Santa Clara is
Zamora has a wealth of historic buildings, both civil and
religious, many of them in Romanesque style. Notable among
them are the 12th century cathedral, situated at the western
extremity of the walled town. It is Romanesque with some
Gothic additions. Its tower, Torre del Salvador, was built during
Castillo, which actually consists of several buildings built on top
and inside of each other, from the 10th to the 17th century. Also
worth seeing is La Magdalena, which dates from the 12th
century, and (if the Tourist Office is to believed) is considered
the most beautiful Romanesque church in the city. On Plaza
because when it was built it was next to the city walls. It dates
from the 12th century and has some Mudéjar features.
Zamora is a stop on the train line between Santiago and Madrid.
The Camino turns left and crosses Plaza Mayor
diagonally and then goes down Calle de las
Costanillas, veering left at the bottom on to Calle de
la Feria, and continues straight across a roundabout.
From there it's straight ahead on to Calle Morana,
veering left on to Caratera Hiniesta. Then continue
straight through another roundabout and, walking on
the right until the Camino leaves the road and
continues on a lane. NB. Another Camino goes west from
here towards Portugal, if you see arrows pointing left
they may directing you to that Camino.
Leaving town, to the right at a roundabout, there is a
supermarket caféteria which is open 24 hours.
7km / 1¾hrs to Roales del Pan, cafés. Municipal hostel
closed, no plans to reopen it. After Roales you will
begin to encounter the northern AVE works. A bridge
has been built over the new tracks so no special
detours are needed.
19km / 4¾ hrs to Montamarta
Municipal hostel (20, 5€) in the old school building, on the
right of the main road before the village. Kitchen. Tel 685 070
072 or the contact details on the door.
Restaurante Rosamari is very welcoming and does good food
and excellent tapas and opens about 07:30.
Coviran Supermarket left at the bus stop on the main road
walking, north and bakery on the main road on the left.
Restaurante Rosamari is very welcoming and does good food
and excellent tapas and opens about 07:30, it's on the main road
near the end of the village. Newly opened guesthouse El
Asturiano has modern facilities and rooms from about 10€. It's
next to the petrol station at then southern end of the village. Tel
685 900 114. Casa Rural El Molino de Castilla is also new. It's
in a renovated mill on the main road just before Restaurante
Rosamari. They have a nice enclosed garden with a swimming
pool. Singles from 20€ (special pilgrim price). Tel 655 014 076
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

When the reservoir is in flood you'll have to cross
the road bridge and turn left after about 300m towards
the church.
The route of the Camino here has been modified to
accommodate the recently constructed motorway,
unfortunately leaving us with quite a bit of roadside
walking.
Also, if you wish, instead of continuing to Riego and
Granja, you can follow the N-631 which will bring you
directly to Tábara in approximately 25km / 6¼hrs from
the point where you leave the Camino. It's reported to
be road-side walking but with light traffic and
through pretty countryside.
13km / 3¼ hrs to Fontanillas de Castro
Municipal hostel (34, donativo) La Casa del Peregrino, on the
left at the beginning of the village. Tel 615 974 962
Café about 400m off the Camino, signposted before the
village to the right. At the same point continue
straight to the village or left for the Camino.
2km / ½ hr to Riego del Camino
Municipal hostel (15, 5€) at Calle España 32. No sign, look for
a yellow post box. There should be a phone number on the door,
otherwise ask locally for the key. Basic.
Casa Camino has sadly closed and at the moment there are no
firm plans to reopen it. If you're passing that way check their
website for the latest info casacaminoriego.weebly.com or the
updates section on www.viadelaplataguide.net
The at times riotous café, Bar Pepé, which is on the Camino,
does food of 'varying quality'.
7km / 1¾ hrs to Granja de Moreruela
Municipal hostel (20, 6€) near the church, beside the main
road. For the key cross the main road at the pedestrian crossing,
to your right there is the community centre which has a café
called Tele Club. Ask there. Tel 980 587 005
The café Tele Club does substantial meals and opens about
08:00 for breakfast. There is a small shop on the street beside
the church and a pharmacy on the main road at the North end of
the village.
Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela is a former Cistercian
monastery dating from the 12th century which was built under
the patronage of the Clairvaux monastery in north east France.
It's mostly ruined now but parts of the Romanesque church are
well-preserved. The original Romanesque cathedral in Santiago
looked a lot like this before it was built over.
The monastery is about 3km due west of Granja. It can be
visited on foot. Getting from there back to the Camino is clearly
signposted. Sometimes a local man drives pilgrims there, details
will be posted in the hostel.
Behind the church is a sign which marks the point
where the Camino Sanabrés divides left from the Vía de
la Plata to follow a course through southern Galicia
to Santiago. The Vía de la Plata continues north to
Astorga and beyond.
For further details on the Camino Sanabrés to Santiago
skip forward a couple of pages...
TO ASTORGA - FOR THE CAMINO
SANABRES PAGE FORWARD
9km / 2¼ hrs to Santovenia where there are cafés, a
butchers shop which also sells groceries and a bakery. Leaving Alija you have the option of following the
road or walking on a path a short distance to the
18km / 4½ hrs to Barcial del Barco left. Both routes rejoin just before...
3km / ¾ hr to La Nora del Río to the right off the
Private Hostel (14, 8€ or 18€ with evening meal and Camino, official waymarkings will urge you to walk
breakfast) Albergue Las Eras an Calle Las Eras, ask in Bar through the village while an outrageously big yellow
Borox, on the main road. Kitchen with microwaves. Café /
restaurant. Good reports. Tel 980 640 073
Cafés.
Between Barcial and Benaventa there are two possible
routes.
The right route: Continue straight on an unpaved road
leading north for 7km / 2¼ hrs to the village of
Castropepe. There continue north until shortly after
the village you will cross a road and on your left is
a shed and an unpaved road leading to the left. The
"official" waymarkings indicate that you should
continue straight, which you can do if you so wish.
However, if you go left down into the valley and pass
under the first two bridges you can rejoin the Camino
by crossing the 3rd (oldest) bridge and save yourself
a couple of (ugly) kilometres. This route is
considerably longer than the left (railway) route.
The left (railway) route: Shortly after Barcial a
disused railway line goes off to the left. If you
follow it it will bring you directly to the municipal
hostel in Benaventa in 8km / 2hrs. Bar Borox gives out
a small map of the path to follow. In November 2017 it
was in the process of being converted into a Vía Verde
/ Green Way and was "officially" closed.
8km / 2 hrs to Benaventa
Municipal hostel (12, €4, March to October) In the old
railway station. The keys from the Tourist Information Office on
Plaza Mayor, otherwise there is usually information on the
hostel door. Tel 980 634 211
This is a large town with all facilities.
Hostal Avenida has singles from about 25€, it's on Avenida el
Ferial. It has a good restaurant.
Leaving the town you need to follow Avenida Donantes
de Sangre north to a roundabout where straight ahead
you'll see a big Vía de la Plata map. You should see
the yellow arrows pointing along the road to the left
of the map. This bit is quite poorly waymarked but
it's hard to get lost because you just follow the road
for about 5km (past a petrol station and café called
Camino de Santiago which opens at 0800) until you see
a concrete pillar and a sign pointing to the right on
to an unpaved road. From there it's straight ahead
to...
8km / 2 hrs to Villabrázaro
Municipal hostel (22, donativo) Ask in Bar Real, which you
can't miss on your way in. Tel 980 642 630
Café. Bar Real does meals. There's another café, you'll see it
signposted to the left as you walk through the village. Pharmacy.
8km / 2hrs Maire de Castroponce, shop on Calle
Beneventa, left just before the park. Café de Angel,
beside the park, in the same building as the Casa
Consistorial (the one with the flags).
14km / 3½ hrs to Alija del Infantado
Private hostel (12, 8€ with breakfast) Albergue de Alija del
Infantado past the Bodegón de Ozaniego about 1km before the
village on the left. Microwave. Tel: 660 068 794
Shop, cafés, a restaurant and banks on or near to the main road
and two more shops down towards Plaza Mayor. The petrol
station on the main road has a café which opens at 0800.
Bodegón (a little before the town) also has a restaurant.
Alija is an interesting little town with a castle, a nice
ayuntamiento and a Jewish area (Judaría). Also don't miss the
anchor (yep, a ship's anchor).

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
arrow will direct you on to a path beside a river.
Your choice. Either way you will end up walking beside
this river for the next 10 or so kilometres.
6km / 1½ hrs to Quintana del Marco, café left over the
bridge, pharmacy.
23km / 5¾ hrs to La Bañeza
Municipal hostel (36, 5€) Signposted to the right shortly after
entering the town. On Calle Bello Horizonte. The keys can be
had from numbers 20 or 6 on the same street - but check on the
door for updated instructions. Laundry facilities, kitchen.
Excellent hostel with lots of photos from the local Camino
Association's various pilgrimages. Tel 649 332 087
La Bañeza is a big town with all services. Big Mercadona
supermarket on the Camino past the hostel.
Restaurante Madrid on Plaza Obispo Alcolea does a good
evening meal.
6km / 1½ hrs to Palacios de la Valduerna. Pharmacy.
15km / 3¾ hrs to Celada. Café / restaurant Quiñones,
100m to the right on Calle Cuesta just where you
arrive in the village.
In Astorga the Vía de la Plata joins the Camino
Francés.
25km / 6¼ hrs to Astorga
Municipal hostel (161, 5€) Albergue de Peregrinos Siervas de
María.
On the left on Plaza San Francisco just after you struggle up the
hill
through the town walls. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Excellent
facilities. Tel 987 616 034
Private Hostel (93, 10€, April to October) San Javier
on Calle Portería, near the cathedral. Kitchen, laundry facilities.
Wood burning stove when it's cold and breakfast. The noise
from the
wooden floor in the dorm can make sleeping difficult. Tel 987
618 532
Astorga is a large towns with all facilities. Supermarket on
Plaza de Santocildes, on the Camino. Several cafés on the
Camino open for breakfast. Tourist Information on the square
beside the cathedral. Also on Plaza de Santocildes there's a good
outdoor shop called Huracán run by a Swiss gentleman. Fiestas
Astures y Romanos 25 July with lots of dressing up and fake
battles, Santa Marta 25 August.
This is an excellent place to try Cocido Maragato, which is the
typical dish of the Maragatería. It is actually several dishes
traditionally served at one sitting, containing goat's blood
sausage, ½ a chicken, pork, a pig's ear, a pig's trotter, a slice of
pig's snout, chorizo, chickpeas, cabbage, potatoes and garlic.
The meat is served first, then the chickpeas then a soup. It's
available in several places but Casa Maragato II on Calle
Padres Redentoristas, has been recommended. On the off chance
that you can manage dessert after all that, Astorga is also known
for its chocolate and pastries, of which Mantecadas and
Hojaldres are the most famous. Many specialist shops around
the centre make and sell them. Restaurante Gaudí, in Hotel
Gaudí, on the same square as Gaudí's Episcopal Palace, is
reported excellent and does a special price for pilgrims.
Cubasol is popular with the locals for tapas, it's on Calle Señor
Ovalle, with your back to the Ayuntamiento it's on the right,
however it's not open in the evenings. For breakfast
Chocolatería Sonrisas, on the Camino just after Plaza Mayor is
friendly and popular with the locals.
Page 12
TO SANTIAGO ON THE CAMINO
SANABRES
7km / 1¾hrs from Granja you will cross a bridge called
Puente Quintos over the river Esla. Immediately after
the bridge the Camino divides. The right route follows
the road to Faramontanos de Tábara and the left route
follows the river for about 1km before turning right
just before the brow of a hill where there is a good
view of the river to the south, passing to the left of
a ruined farmhouse and then continuing on unpaved
roads to Tábara.
18km / 4½ hrs to Faramontanos de Tábara
Municipal hostel (4, free) in a Community Centre on the way
out of the village. Ask for the keys in Bar Boya. Basic and not
always available. Tel 980 59 50 54
A shop, cafés and a couple of restaurants, all on or near the
Camino.
Shortly before and after Tábara you will encounter the
AVE (high-speed train) construction site.
When you arrive in Tábara you'll see arrows pointing
right and the church up to your left. The arrows
pointing right are the Camino leaving town. If you
want the village, head for the church.
7km / 1¾ hrs to Tábara
Private hostel (14, 9€) Albergue El Roble just off the main
square, veering right. Café / restaurant. New in 2017. Also
private rooms for (about) 20€. Tel 650 629 969
Municipal hostel (14, donativo) About 1km off the Camino.
Cross the Plaza Mayor diagonally and follow the signs. Kitchen.
Run by a welcoming hospitalero who, in the style of traditional
pilgrim hospitality, prepares an evening meal and breakfast. Tel
637 926 068
Small supermarket on the left on the main road where you arrive
in the town. Grouped around the main square are a pharmacy,
cafés, banks. The restaurant of Albergue El Roble, just off
Plaza mayor, does food and opens for breakfast.
To rejoin the Camino walk back the way you came into
town, passing to the left of the tower. There's an
alternative route back to the Camino from the
municipal hostel which is slightly shorter, ask the
hospitalero.
10km / 2½ hrs after Tábara you have the choice of two
routes.
RIGHT ROUTE 12km / 3hrs
4km / 1hr to Bercianos de Valverde, then 8km / 2hrs to
Santa Croya de Tera. This route is considered the
'authentic route'.
LEFT ROUTE 12km / 3hrs
14km / 3½ hrs to Villanueva de las Peras
Private hostel (7, 10€) Albergue La Alameda on Valle La
Alameda. Laundry facilities and kitchen. Keys from Bar La
Mona. Tel 680 603 808
Cafés.
8km / 2hrs to Santa Croya de Tera.
RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN
BEFORE...
Santa Croya de Tera
Private hostel (38, 12€, March to October) Casa Anita near
the end of the village on the right, just before the bridge.
Laundry facilities, open fire. They have a café and restaurant
which does an evening meal for 10€. Breakfast from vending
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

machines. Website: www.alberguecasaanita.com Tel: 626 239 bridge. The key can be had from Asociación Gastrónomica or
852 Bar Palacio. Kitchen. In a renovated medieval pilgrim hostel.
Shops and a café. Unfortunately sometimes booked out for groups. Tel 980 652
1km / ¼ hr to Santa Marta de Tera 132
Cafés. The restaurant Asociación Gastrónomica / Me Gusta
Municipal hostel (12, 5€, March to December) follow the
Comer has been highly recommended by several pilgrims. Bar
signs from outside the church. Ask for the keys in the exhibition
Palacio also does a pilgrim menu and opens in the morning at
centre beside the church, or if closed, in Bar Stop, to the left.
08:00. They also rent rooms.
Kitchen, laundry facilities. New in 2015. Nice, modern
facilities. Tel 980 649 006 9km / 2¼ hrs to Mombuey
Cafés, shop. The shop has no sign, to get there turn right out the Municipal hostel (8, donativo) Albergue de Mombuey on Calle
albergue door, take the second street on the left and ring the la Iglesia where the Camino turns left off the main road. Ask in
doorbell of the house facing you at the end. Shop entrance a house across the street for the keys (no. 4). Very basic.
around the corner. Bar Stop does Platos Combinados and opens Mombuey has all facilities so stock up here. There are no
for breakfast. shops between here and Puebla de Sanabria. On the Camino
The Camino goes immediately left just before the are cafés, shops, banks. A little past where the Camino turns left
church.
6km / 1½hrs after Santa Marta the Camino comes to a a pharmacy and a bakery.
main road at a gravel quarry. Turn left here and cross Hotel La Ruta, just before the village, is recently renovated and
the bridge over the Río Tera. The Camino to Calzadilla has a café which does good snack and a Menu del Día.
continues to the right after the bridge. Shortly The 13th century church has an unusual tower.
before Calzadilla there is a set of confusing arrows After Mombuey the Camino follows close to the main
pointing to the right. Ignore them and continue road on the left for 2km / ½hr before crossing the
straight over the canal until you reach a paved road. motorway.
11km / 2¾ hrs to Calzadilla de Tera 5km / 1¼ hrs to Valdemerilla.
3km / ¾ hr to Cernadilla. This municipal hostel is
Municipal hostel (6, donativo) turn left at the main road reported to be closed.
(where you see the sign for Café Bar Blanco) and it's between 2km / ½ hr to San Salvador de Palazuelo. This
the Medical Centre / Consultorio de Atención Primaria, and a municipal hostel is reported to be closed.
4km / 1hr to Entrepeñas. Guest House El Cuco
children's playground. Basic. Check on the door for the key. Tel recommended. Careful not to miss the left turn leaving
980 645 845 Entrepeñas. Then 3km to...
From the same spot turn left for a Courviran supermarket and a
bakery, 100m past the playground by the albergue. Café Bar
17km / 4¼ hrs to Asturianos
Municipal hostel (6+, 4€) Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in the
Blanco signposted to the right at the road, is about 1km off the
Sports Centre / Polideportivo, follow the signs through the
Camino.
Be careful because there is a lot of confusing village and up the hill. They can sleep more people on exercise
waymarking in this area. You should follow a canal to mats in the sports centre. Ask for keys in the Sports Centre Bar.
Olleros, whichever arrows you find in the village Bar Meson El Carmen, on the main road, does OK meals. Its
should being you to this canal.
rather grumpy landlady is something of a Camino legend. The
2km / ½ hr to Olleros de Tera café in the Polideportivo also does meals.
Private hostel (6, 6€) Albergue La Trucha attached to Café Bar Off-road sections between Asturianos and Puebla de
Sanabria may be muddy and flooded after rain.
La Trucha, on the left of the Camino. Tel 980 644 767 3km / ¾hr to Palacios de Sanabria, cafés, small shop
Café Bar La Trucha, does meals (reported excellent) and plates and pharmacy. Bar Mirador, on the main road, is
of locally produced chorizo and ham with tortilla. They also usually open for breakfast. To rejoin the Camino cross
the main road from Bar Mirador and veer left uphill.
open for breakfast. 3km / ¾hr to Remesal.
Continue through the village, cross a main road on to
3km / ¾hr to Otero de Sanabria.
an unpaved road, pass to the left of a concrete
2km / ½hr to Triufé.
structure and walk towards a church in the distance.
4km / 1hr to...
From this church you'll walk through open country for
about 2km / ½hr before arriving at a dam, Embalse de
Agavanzal. On this section there is a sign on the road
14km / 3½ hrs to Puebla de Sanabria
indicating bicycles to go left (BICIS), this is a Private hostel (34, 12€, March to October) Albergue Casa
slightly easier alternative to the walking route which Luz on the left on the Camino as it enters the town. Kitchen,
involves a bit of scrambling around in the mud. laundry facilities. Good reports. Website:
Cross the dam and turn immediately left.
www.alberguecasaluz.es Tel: 619 751 762
8km / 2 hrs to Villar de Farfón This is a large town with all facilities. Shops, cafés, pharmacy
Private hostel (4, donativo) Albergue Rehoboth on the Camino on the main road, and further on across the bridge and up to the
leaving the village on the left. Run by a South African family left, bakeries and banks and Bar España which is excellent for
who have dedicated themselves to missionary work. Kitchen tapas, it also open around 08:00 for breakfast. El Mesón
and the basis of a pasta dinner for sale. See their website: Rematehas also been recommended. Casa Teresa rents rooms
www.pilgrimmission.org for 15€.
Albergue Rehoboth allows passing pilgrims to make tea or Peubla de Sanabria is a stop on the train line between Santiago
coffee and has a cute dog. and Madrid.
The Camino through Puebla follows the main road and
6km / 1½ hrs to Rionegro del Puente turns right immediately after crossing the bridge.
Municipal hostel (30, 7€) Albergue de Peregrinos Virgen de la Follow this road around the old town until it crosses
another bridge, now continue straight for 1km / ¼ hr
Carballeda to the right of the main road after crossing the

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
until the Camino turns abruptly left and continues on
a track beside a river. NOTE: following the road (N-
525) is a good alternative, the official Camino is
poorly waymarked and will be flooded after rain.
10km / 2½hrs to Terroso. This village lies on a long
(but scenic) meander which can be avoided by following
the road.
12km / 3 hrs to Requejo de Sanabria
Municipal hostel (20, 5€) behind the pharmacy to the right,
which is to the right of the main road just after the roundabout.
Basic but comfortable. Contact information on the door.
Private hostel (24, 12€) Albergue Casa Cerviño on the left
beside the main road, after the roundabout. Kitchen, laundry
facilities. Website: www.albergue-sanabria.com Tel: 686 024
213
Two small shops, cafés, pharmacy, all on the Camino.
Restaurant Mar Rojo is good and opens at 07:00. Hotels, Mar
Rojo and Hotel Maite.
AVE works are still causing disruptions on this
stretch and the normal routes of the Camino (as
described below) are only passable with great
difficulty because many of the waymarkings have
disappeared. A detour is signposted shortly after
Requejo and following it is advisable. As of November
2017 this detour basically directed pilgrims to follow
the main road until after Padornelo.
After Requejo the climb begins towards the pass at A
Canda. 5km / 1¼hrs out you come to a derelict building
with signposting for two different routes. Right is
the 'Historic Camino'. This ascends a hill steeply and
eventually joins the road across the pass to
Padornela. There is a river on this route which you
will need to ford and which is impassable after rain
or during the melting season. Left is the 'Alternative
Camino' which crosses a bridge and turns right up the
hill beside the train tunnel entrance. This Camino
follows a slightly more southerly route and joins the
road near the pass.
The situation with AVE construction and detours is likely to
continue to be a problem for several years (many years if the
speed at which construction is progressing is anything to go
by). The situation is also constantly changing. Updates about
detours from pilgrims passing through this area would be
greatly appreciated and would be a service to pilgrims
following in your footsteps. Because this guide is published
as an ebook and printed using print-on-demand technology,
any new information can quickly be made available to
pilgrims. It will also be made available on the updates
section of our website www.viadelaplataguide.net
7km / 2¼hrs to the pass at 1,356m. The highest point
on the Vía de la Plata.
2km / ½hr to Padornelo, where there is a café. A short
distance after the village Hotel Padornelo has a café
and a good restaurant and single rooms from 25€. Tel
980 567 939 Website www.hotelpadornelo.com
After Padornelo there's another detour which directs
you to cross the motorway and follow a path which runs
parallel to it until you cross under it to climb to
Lubián.
The official route passes through Aciberos. It is
reported to be still passable, however, it's up to you
if you risk it.
6km / 1½hrs to Lubián.
17km / 4¼ hrs to Lubián
Municipal hostel (16, 3€) the first building on the right when
you enter the village. Kitchen. Contact details on the door.
There's a small supermarket on the Camino and a café /
restaurant on the main road (up to the right) which does food
and opens at 09:00. Bar Javi has been recommended for food,
Page 14
and they have nice double rooms from 35€, including breakfast.
Casa Irenehas double rooms for 40€.
About 2km after Lubián you will begin a 5km / 1¼hrs
(although probably longer), 300m climb to Portela de
la Canda. Parts of this stretch can be flooded after
rain. It is possible to walk on the road: leaving
Lubián follow the ZA-106 west for about 9km / 2¼ hrs
until it intersects with the Camino a few hundred
metres after where the motorway enters a tunnel.
7km / 1¾hrs to the pass at altitude 1,260m.
Welcome to Galicia!
There are few municipal hostels in Galicia however in their
place are Xunta hostels. These are funded directly by the
Government of Galicia (the Xunta). They always have kitchens
but, for reasons which will not be speculated upon here, they are
rarely usable, ie. the cooker doesn't work, there are no utensils,
etc. For this reason Xunta hostels which have unusable kitchens
are listed here as having no kitchen.
2km / ½ hr to A Canda.
3km / ¾hr to Vilavella which has two cafés, both a
little off the Camino and one of them in a Spa Hotel
Resort. Both do food. Guest house O Cartiera has
doubles from 25€.
3km / ¾hr to O Pereiro.
5km / 1¼hrs to O Cañizo.
4km / 1hr to...
24km / 6 hrs to A Gudiña
Xunta hostel (24, 6€) from the main road, turn right under a
railway bridge and then right up the hill, it's 20m up on the left.
Kitchen.
There are shops, cafés a pharmacy and a bank on the main road
past the turnoff for the Xunta albergue. If this bank doesn't work
for your card continue along the main road for a few minutes to
where there's another one. Bar Peregrino, which is just
opposite where you turn off for the Xunta hostel, does tapas.
Opens early for breakfast. Hostal A Madrileña on the left as
you enter the town has single rooms for 20€. They also do food.
The Camino veers right on to Rúa Maior where you turn
off for the Xunta albergue. After about 200m is the
divide for the Laza and Verín routes. Only the Laza
route is described here. This route is entirely road
with nice scenery.
In 2017 the route through Campobecerros was open with
no problems due to AVE works. However, the AVE works
near Campobecerros are extensive and this situation
may change at short notice. Please heed any advice
from reliable sources.
8km / 2hrs to A Venda Da Teresa.
2km / ½hr to A Venda Da Capela.
3km / ¾hr to A Venda do Bolaño.
A steep descent to...
20km / 5 hrs to Campobecerros
Private hostel (20, 8€) Albergue de Rosario, signposted from
the Camino. Same owners as Bar Da Rosario. Tel: 650 530 547
The municipal hostel in the old railway is closed - it's being
used to accommodate construction workers for the AVE.
Bar Da Rosario has a small shop and does meals. Casa Nuñez
also does meals, including local specialities. Both are on the
Camino as it winds its way through Campobecerros' strangely
mediaeval centre.
Alternative accommodation: Pension Rurale Casa Nuñez,
singles 18€, doubles 24€. Tel 988 305 421
3km / ¾hr to Portocamba.
5km / 1¼hrs to As Eiras, where the local Amigos del
Camino run a small help-yourself outdoor café.
6km / 1½ hrs and spectacular scenery, to...
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

2km / ½hr to the roundabout at the beginning of

14km / 3½ hrs to Laza Ourense where there's a sign indicating straight ahead
Xunta hostel (34, 6€) a little outside the village. Go to the for the hostel (1.4km) and left down Avenida de Zamora
for the Camino. Both routes will bring you to the
Protección Civil, which you'll pass, beside the Casa do Roman Bridge / Puente Romano which the Camino crosses,
Concello, on the Camino. They'll check you in and give you the in about 3km / ¾hr.
keys. Kitchen. Tel 988 422 112
Shops, pharmacy, bank and bakery, all on or near the Camino. 23km / 5¾ hrs to Ourense / Orense
Several cafés do food. Good reports of Restaurante Picota. Xunta hostel (40, 6€) walking up Rúa a Peña Trevinca the
Follow the main road north west. hostel is on the opposite corner at the right turn on to Rúa a
3km / ¾ hr to Soutelo Verde, café called A Souteleira Granxa. It's in an old convent up some steps and partially
Sendero del Peregrino.
3km / ¾hr to Tamicelas. Then a steep 400m ascent to...
obscured by trees. Kitchen, laundry facilities.
Ourense's population is 106,000 and it is the capital of Ourense
12km / 3 hrs to Alberguería province. It has all facilities. Walking up towards the Xunta
Private hostel (20, donativo, February to November) ask in hostel along Rúa a Peña Trevinca, there are cafés, shops, an
the café El Rincón del Peregrino opposite for access. Kitchen, Eroski supermarket, pharmacies and banks. Grelo Hostel on
laundry facilities, wood burning stove. They have a supply of Rúa Peña Trevinca, has dorm rooms from 18€ and has been
basic foodstuffs, pasta, tins of tomatos, etc. recommended. Tel 988 614 564 Website www.grelohostel.com
Café whose owner has adorned its walls with shells with all the Opposite the northern railway station (there are two, one south
names of the pilgrims who have passed through. This is a good of the river and the main one to the north) at Eulogio Gómez
place to try the local moonshine, Aguardiente, Hierbas, etc. Franqueira 5, is Pensión R Galicia with singles from 20€. Tel
Caution is advised. They also do sandwiches, etc. 988 607 010 or 626 070 009
7km / 1¾ hrs to Vilar do Barrio
Xunta hostel (24, 6€) on Avenida de San Fiz, in the centre of If you find this guide useful please consider making a
the village, just to the right of the square. Ask in the donation towards its upkeep. Your contribution will help
Ayuntamiento / Town Hall or at the Repsol petrol station for the ensure that it will still be kept up-to-date and made
key. Kitchen but no utensils. available free to future pilgrims. Also, for a US$5 donation
Shop 'Tandy' on the Camino, cafés, bank (ATM available during you’ll be able to download PDF copies of the full version of
business hours only), pharmacy. Food in Bar Ruta de la Plata, this guide (with maps, altitude profiles, etc.) and a copy of
to the left of the Camino at the park with the petrol station. our best-selling Practical Prepartion book, with everything
2km / ½hr to Bóveda.
1km / ¼hr to Vilar de Gomareite, café.
you need to know before you set off. See our website:
6km / 1½hrs to Padroso, Café Bo Camiño, run by the www.caminoguide.net
Amigos de Camino, reported to have great empanadas.
Caution is advised on the final descent to Xunqueira
which can be slippery when wet. Ourense is situated in the deep valley of the river Miño which
gives it a climate which is hotter and dryer than much of the rest
14km / 3½ hrs to Xunqueira de Ambía of Galicia. The Romans built a settlement here to take advantage
Xunta hostel (24, 6€) modern hostel just to the right of the of the natural hot springs along the banks of the river. These are
Camino before the village. Kitchen. still in operation today and if you fancy a dip many
Private hostel (6, 12€) Albergue Turístico Casa Tomás, on establishments can rent you everything you need. They're found
Plaza San Rosendo. Microwave, laundry facilities. Café which upstream from the Roman bridge. Ourense's 12th century
does meals. New in 2016. Tel 637 580 772 cathedral is principally Romanesque with some Gothic features.
Cafés, a Spar supermarket and pharmacy, all on the road through The 'Roman bridge' is actually much newer than its name
the village. Several places do evening meals of which Casa suggests, but it is built on the site of an original Roman bridge
Tomás has been recommended. The guest house Casa do Souto and uses its foundations. At 103m altitude this is the lowest
has been recommended. Tel: 669 851 544 point since Seville.
The Camino follows the road through the village, past Leaving Ourense from the Xunta hostel, turn right on
the church and then turns right following the signpost to Rua Emilia Pardo Bazan and then take a left on to
for A Pousa. Then after about 20m it veers left down a Rua Bedoya, continue straight as far as you can until,
side road. veering right, you cross the the Roman bridge / Puente
3km / ¾hr to A Pousa, café, supermarket. Romano.
5km / 1¼hrs to Ousende. After crossing the bridge, 300m up the hill the Camino
1km / ¼hr to Penelas, café, shop. divides, the right route turns right on to Avenida de
2km / ½hrs to Venda do Rio. Santiago, while the left route continues straight
1km / ¼hr to Pereiras, café. towards the (northern) railway station, visible up the
2km / ½hr to A Castellana, where the suburbs of hill. Both routes involve a steep climb to get out of
Ourense begin, café. At the beginning of the the valley of the River Miño.
industrial zone are some information boards for
pilgrims with maps. From here it's unpleasant suburban RIGHT ROUTE 22km / 5½hrs
walking to the city centre. This route can get muddy and flooded after rain.
2km / ½ hr to Reboredo, at the right turn on to Turn right on to Avenida de Santiago which you follow
Estrada ao Polígono, arrows urge you to go right up a for about 1km, walking on the RIGHT otherwise you'll
hill on a narrow lane, ignore them and continue miss the waymarkings, until the Camino veers on to a
straight on Estrada ao Polígono. Soon afterwards, at a minor road to the right. After a short while you'll
roundabout, you need to go left on to a minor road, cross the main road again and continue steeply uphill.
Rúa do Cruceiro, rather than following the dangerous You'll cross another road and then there's a long,
main road. steep climb to...
3km / ¾hr to Seixalbo, café.

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017

4km / 1hr to Cudeiro. After this the Camino follows a
path through a forest.
ATTENTION! Fake yellow arrows will try to lead you
towards the village of Cambeo. They're a slightly
lighter colour than normal arrows, play close
attention, they appear in the woods about 5km after
Cudeiro. If you end up in Cambeo you'll have to follow
the main road left to rejoin the Camino (ignore arrows
urging you to continue north!)
8Km / 2hrs to Tamallancos, cafés.
1km / 1hr to Bouzas, café.
2km / ½hr to Sobreira.
3km / ¾hr to Viduedo, café, shop.
2km / ½hr to Casas Novas, café. Then 2km / ½hr to Cea.
LEFT ROUTE 20km / 5hrs
Continue straight up the hill, turn left to pass in
front of the railway station (station café opens
05:00) on to Rúa Eulogio Gómez Franqueira, from where missing waymarkings. Be careful not to miss one yellow
you basically follow the yellow arrows on the right
side of the street, along the side of a busy main road most people's normal line of sight.
to
4km / 1hr to Qunitela, where, opposite Bodegas Arnoya,
you take the smaller road which branches right. You
follow this for about 700m until, outside the
showrooms of Gómez y Crespo (farm machinery
manufacturing), where the road goes right, you
continue straight. You pass under the new train
viaduct to the tunnel under the old train tracks, push
the button to get pedestrian priority and (with your
torch lit, just in case some driver ignores the
traffic lights) pass through the tunnel to begin a
200m climb.
7km / 1¾hrs to Casa César, an informal café run by
César, a retired lorry driver, who serves up delicious which is reported to be good.
home-made cakes and other goodies, including his own
wine.
4km / 1hr to Ponte Mandras, café and shop.
4km / 1hr to Casas Novas, café.
LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTES REJOIN IN...
Casas Novas, café. From where it's 1km / ¼hr to Cea.
Cea
7Km / 1¾hrs to A Gouxa, café - not open mornings.
LEFT ROUTE 15km / 3¾ hrs
From the Xunta hostel go right to Calle de España and
then, following the signs that say Oseira 9, pass
alongside the Community Centre / Edificio Multiusos
and follow the yellow arrows.
1km / ¼hr to Porto do Souto.
1km / ¼hr to Cotelas, cafés. Guest house called O
Refugio with private en suite rooms from 10€, kitchen,
evening meals and breakfast from 07:00. All in a quiet
rural location. Good Reports. Tel 988 282 593 or 606
709 167
2km / ½hr to Piñor, café, pharmacy.
1km / ¼hr to Fontelo.
1km / ¼hr to Arenteiro, café.
1km / ¼hr to O Reino. Then 8km / 2hrs to Castro Dozón.
Care is necessary on this part because of faded and
at a left turn which is on a bollard positioned above
RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN...
Castro Dozón
Xunta hostel (28, 6€) just to the left of the main road about
400m north of the village. Kitchen. Phone number on the door.
There is a couple of cafés in the village which do food, the first
one you come to, Café Fraga, has a shop hidden in the back,
opens at 08:00. Bar Cantón serves a menu from 20:00.
Pharmacy on the main road. In summer the café of the
swimming pool, which is just beside the Xunta hostel, does food
4km / 1hr north of Castro Dozón the Camino veers left
away from the main road on to a minor one.
2km / ½hr to Puxallos.
7km / 1¾hrs to Estación de Lalín, cafés. Helpful
information board on the Camino. A Taberna da Vento, a
short distance to the left past the roundabout, does
good food.
4km / 1hr to A Eirexe, café.

Xunta hostel (40, 6€) just to the left of the Camino at the start 18km / 4½ hrs to A Laxe
of the village, follow the signs. Kitchen. Not very clean. Lights Xunta hostel (28, 6€) in a nicely renovated old building with a
go on automatically at 05:00. garden. Kitchen with basic utensils and microwaves. Feels
The geography of this town is too confusing to describe. Along almost like a space station.
Rúa Calvo Sotelo there is a shop, cafés, including Sol y Luna In Vilasoa, on the Camino about 300m up the main road, there's
which opens early, and a bank. Off Praza Maior is a restaurant / a café / restaurant called Ma. José which does good food. No
pulperia (which also does real food), various cafés, and a bank breakfast until Silleda.
2km / ½hr to Prado, shop, pharmacy, café on the main
and a pharmacy.
There are two routes between Cea and Castro Dozón. The road just to the right of the Camino.
right route is the 'official' one and passes through 5km / 1¼hrs at the beginning of an industrial zone
where the Camino goes left, there is a sign pointing
Oseira. The left route is slightly shorter.
to a restaurant 200m off the Camino. It's actually
RIGHT ROUTE 20km / 5 hrs quite a lot further than that and on the main road.
From Praza Maior go north on to Rúa da Praza Maior and
Rúa de Lodairo (past the Bread Monument) and follow 10km
/ 2½ hrs to Silleda
the signs. Private hostel (12, 10€) Albergue Turístico Trasfontao, on the
7km / 1¾hrs through open country to Pielas. New café,
O Toxo, reported good.
Camino a little before the town. Laundry facilities, kitchen,
swimming pool. New in 2015. Principally for groups. Tel 650
9km / 2¼ hrs to Oseira 261 774 Website www.albergueturisticotrasfontao.es
Religious hostel (40, 5€) Refugio del Monasterio de Oseira in Private hostel (65, 8€, June to September) Albergue Santa
the monastery which is just on your left as you enter the village Olaia in the centre of the town down an alleyway behind the
(you can't miss it!) In a cavernous dormitory in one of the church, Nosa Señora da Saleta. Laundry facilities. Tel 986 580
monastery outhouses. 013
Two cafés, both of which do food, although neither opens in the Private hostel (20, 10€) Albergue Turístico Silleda on Rúa
morning. The monastery sells produce made by the monks Venezuela, which is to the right of the Camino, ask in Bar Maril.
(chocolate, alcohol, etc.) There are guided tours of the Tel 689 505 690
monastery in Spanish, information from ticket counter. The Private hostel (10, 7€) El Gran Albergue del Peregrino, on Rúa
monks sing Vespers in the evening, pilgrims welcome. Antón Alonso Río, also to the right of the Camino. Laundry
11km / 2¾hrs to Castro Dozón, beginning with a 2km / facilities and kitchen.
½hr steep climb over rocky ground.

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ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
Two supermarkets on Rúa Emilio Elonso Paz, pharmacy and
banks on the main road which is also the Camino. There is also
a good selection of alternative accommodation of which Hostal
Gonzales has been recommended, 10€ for a single room - also
good food. Friendly Café Bar Maril does a good evening meal,
opens at 07:00 for breakfast.
Follow the Camino along the main road north through
the town to where it veers left on to a path.
7km / 1¾ hrs to Bandeira
Xunta hostel (36, 6€) on Rúa Lourdás, 200m to the right of the
Camino just past the centre of the town. Kitchen.
Dia supermarket near the Xunta hostel, cafés, banks, pharmacies
on or near the Camino which follows the main road through the
town.
Cross to walk on the right side of the street on one
of the pedestrian crossings, otherwise you'll be
crossing at a dangerous bend.
5km / 1¼ hrs to Leiras
Private hostel(10, 12€, closed Christmas and New Year)
Casa Leiras, on the Camino on the right. In a nicely renovated
farm building. Evening meal with vegetarian options on request.
Opened in 2015 by a young Italian couple. Camping also
possible. Tel 620 483 603 or 634 613 690.
Café.
4km / 1hr to A Carballeira, café.
300m descent to...
8km / 2 hrs to Ponte Ulla
Private hostel (30, 10€) Albergue O Cruceiro, to the left of the
Camino as it ascends the hill after crossing the bridge. Laundry
facilities. They have a café / restaurant and private rooms. Good
reports. Tel 981 512 099
Cafés, Día supermarket a little to the left of the Camino just
under the overpass. Restaurante Rios, near the bridge, has
rooms from 12€. Tel 981 512 305
4km / 1 hr to Outeiro
Xunta hostel (32, 6€) in an isolated spot to the right of the
Camino. Laundry facilities. There are no services in the vicinity
but the hostel has a working kitchen. Coffee and drinks from
vending machines.
There's a shop, a café and a restaurant on the main road, about
1km downhill from the hostel. Although it would be handier to
stock up in Ponte Ulla.
If you feel like treating yourself (or you're sick of the grime),
about 3km further along the Camino is a guesthouse which has
been recommended, Casa de Casal, double rooms from about
60€. Tel 981 503 227 Website www.casadecasal.com
8km / 2hrs to A Susana, cafés.
4km / 1hr to O Pineiro da Igrexe, cafés.
5km / 1¼hr to Santiago.
17km / 4¼ hrs to Santiago de Compostela
Private hostel (20, 15€) Albergue Porta Real on Rúa dos
Concheiros on the Camino on the left about 2km before the
cathedral. Laundry facilities. Tel 633 610 114
Private hostel (24, 16€) Albergue La Estrella de Santiago, on
Rúa dos Concheiros, on the left. Kitchen with microwaves. Tel
617 882 529
Religious hostel (190, 12€, March to October) Albergue
Seminario Menor. Off the Camino to the left. From Praza de
San Pedro turn left on to Rúa de Blevís and follow the signs.
Kitchen, laundry facilities, shop. You can stay as long as you
like but you must vacate the hostel between 09:30 and 13:30 and
Page 17
return before midnight. Private rooms from 15€. Tel 881 031
768
Private hostel (20, €15) O Fogar de Teodomiro on Praza de la
Algalia, a few minutes north of the cathedral. From the Camino
turn right on to Rúa de Algalia de Arriba and walk for about a
minute. Kitchen, laundry facilities. No curfew. Price includes
towels and sheets. Noisy and other negative reports. Tel 981 582
920
Private Hostel (62, €18, March to Christmas) The Last Stamp
/ El Último Sello. Just to the left of the Camino at Praza de
Cervantes. Kitchen. Good reports. Tel 981 563 525
Private hostel (20, €18) Albergue Azabache. On the left just
before the cathedral. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Tel 981 071 254
Religious Hostel (35, donativo, July and August) Los
Franciscanos on Rúa dos Castiñeros which is north of Praza do
Obradoiro along Rúa de San Francisco and then veering right
and then left. This hostel intends to provide a space of
tranquillity and reflection for genuine pilgrims. Opens 16:00.
Fills up quickly. One night only. If you walk to Fisterra you can
stay another night on your return. Doors locked between 22:00
and 08:00. Evening prayer service. Outside of the summer
months this building is used as a hostel for homeless people.
Private Hostel (34, 17€) Albergue Mundoalbergue. On Rúa San
Clemente, which is two minutes walk west from Praza do
Obradoiro, down the steps to the left of the townhall and
continue straight. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Common room
with fireplace. Tel 981 588 625
Private Hostel (48, 18€) Roots & Boots on Rúa do Campo do
Cruceiro do Gaio, no 7, from Praza do Obradoiro walk west,
down the incline in front of the hotel to Rúa das Hortas which
you follow to the end then turn left. Kitchen, laundry facilities.
Reported friendly. Tel 699 631 594
Private Hostel (20, 15€) Albergue Blanco, also down Rúa das
Hortas to the end, then right. Laundry facilities, microwaves.
New in 2017. Tel 881 976 850
Private Hostel (84, 17€, February to November) Albergue
Turístico La Salle on Rúa de Tras Santa Clara. When you reach
the end of Rúa San Pedro turn right on to Rúa das Rodas and
then again right on to Rúa de San Roque. It's the second street
on the right. Laundry facilities, microwaves. Individual rooms,
doubles from 30€. Tel 981 585 667
Private hostel (30, 13€, March to November) Albergue Meiga
Backpackers on Rúa dos Basquiños, same direction as Albergue
La Salle, just a little further. Kitchen. Some negative reports. Tel
981 570 846
Private Hostel (24, 15€, May to September) La Estación, on
Rúa Xoana Nogueira, near the railway station. Kitchen, laundry
facilities. Tel 981 594 624
Pilgrims mostly stay around the historic old city, rarely
venturing to the new part of town, which in any case is rarely
necessary because the old city has all the facilities you're likely
to need. Santiago offers a wide variety of accommodation
ranging from five star hotels to rooms in private apartments. The
quality varies greatly and there have been reports of bedbugs in
some of the cheaper options (not those mentioned here). Also,
you're not imagining things, some of the small hotels are about
the same price as private pilgrim hostels.
The following have been recommended. Guesthouse / Hostal
Rúa do Vilar, at the cathedral end of Rúa do Vilar and shares an
entrance with Hotel Montes, has cheap and clean individual or
shared rooms.
ViadelaPlata.net the free guide to the Vía de la Plata – December 2017
Café A Campana, on Rúa da Moeda Vella, just off Praza da
Inmaculada also has cheap rooms (20€ for singles, cheaper
during the off-season). Its location is excellent and the welcome
is warm although not everybody will appreciate its "Fawlty
Towers" style of management.
The following options also come recommended: Hospedaje
Mera on Portal da Pena, from about 20€. Tel 981 583 867 Bar
Tita on Rúa Nova has rooms also from about 30€. Tel 981 583
867. Seminario Mayor, in the old monastery opposite the
cathedral on Praza da Inmaculada, has "flexible" pricing starting
at about 25€ for single rooms (limited availability) with good
buffet breakfast. You can reserve from their website:
www.sanmartinpinario.eu Tel 981 583 009
The Pilgrims Office / Oficina de Peregrinos (or to call it by its
correct name Centro Internacional de Acollida ao Peregrino)
is where you go if you want a Compostela certificate. It moved
in late 2015 and is now on Rúa de Domingo Garcia-Sabell.
From Praza do Obradoiro facing the Parador walk left down the
ramp and turn right on to Rúa das Carretas, then it's the first
street on the left. It is open April to October 08:00 to 21:00,
otherwise 10:00 to 19:00. Their website is
www.oficinadelperegrino.com Also in the same location is a
Left Luggage Office for pilgrims, where you can leave your
backpack while you're visiting the cathedral, 2€, open until
20:30. There are two helpful Tourist Information Offices on
Rúa do Vilar which are open all year, one for the city of
Santiago and the other for Galicia. They can give you a good
map of the city, and various other leaflets about sights and
events. They also organise guided tours with different themes,
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mp3 audio guides, and have information about the Camino to
Fisterra / Finisterre. Also on Rúa do Vilar is a RENFE / Train
office which sells train tickets (card payments only). There is
also internet access and printing (although not always paper) at
the Municipal Library which is at the beginning of Avenida de
Xoan XXIII, very near Albergue Los Franciscanos. They also
have a selection of books! Also on Rúa Nova is Pilgrim House,
a US run meeting space for pilgrims which also provides
services such as printing boarding cards and laundry. Post
Office on Rúa do Franco. Supermarket on Praza do Toural, at
the other end of Rúa do Vilar from the cathedral. If you used
Ivar's luggage storage service then you can pick your things up
from Casa Ivar, see www.casaivar.com for details. There's a
taxi rank on Rúa de San Francisco, just off the Praza do
Obradoiro, from where taxis will take up to four people to
Fisterra for (about) 80€ (the exact price is down to your
negotiating skills).
The cathedral is open from 07:00 until 20:30, to avoid the
crowds you may want to plan to visit at an off-peak time, early
in the morning or in the evening. Embracing the statue of St
James and visiting the crypt is from 09:30 to 13:30 and 16:00 to
19:30. A Choir Mass is held daily at 09:30 and a Mass for
Pilgrims is at 12:00 (at peak times be sure to arrive early) and
19:30. The botafumeiro is swung on holy days and "according
to a calendar of liturgical services". Although it can be swung on
request, in exchange for a donation. You are not allowed to bring
your backpack into the cathedral, see luggage store above next
to Pilgrims Office.