LENZING

Recommendations for the finishing of knitwear

made of

LENZING Modal®

LAG 2005 / TMTK

 Recommendation for the finishing of knitwear
of 100% Lenzing Modal®:

1. Once the knitting procedure is complete, immediately cut the fabrics,

and roll at open width to avoid permanent creases of the centre fold line.

2. Preparing the lot:

Only process fabrics from one and the same knitting batch.

3. Evaluation of the dimension stability in advance:

First of all it is important to determine the width of the 100% greige fabric, it is even
better to draw a shrinkage square on the fabric.
We would like to recommend to evaluate the shrinking behaviour by washing a piece
of grey fabric at 90°C with subsequent tumble drying. The values received by this
change in dimension stability can be transferred to set the proper width and overfeed
at the stenter frame later on.

• Depending on the structure of the fabric, the width should only be

approx. 5% wider compared to the value we have received from this
shrinkage test

Lenzing Modal obtains a good shrinkage behaviour but especially for knitwear
it is important to proceed with the lowest possible tensions lengthwise.
Issue: Processing in tubular form on discontinuous machines.
4. Dyeing:

• Prewashing:

The liquor temperature should equal at least 50/60°C 122°F(60°C

140°F is better) for the initial temperature to counter the „wet stiffness“
of the regenerated cellulose.

• For MicroModal it suffices to use the following recipe : approximately

0,5 g/l soda ash

1 g/l washing agent
x g/l sequestering agent
x g/l preventive against running creases (lubricant)

Start at 60°C 140°F, heat up to approximately 85°C 185°F – 1°C/min –

20 min. at 85°C 185°F perform a warm rinse, perform a warm rinse and
then neutralise.

• When dyeing you can use the dyestuff ranges normally used on cotton.
Depending on the fastness requirements, direct dyestuffs can be used
for light to medium shades.
Normally dyeing is performed with reactive dyestuffs whereby hot-
dyeing dyestuffs are given preference.
Depending on the machinery care should be taken that the liquor ratio is
as high as possible (1 : 10 – 1 : 15).
The machine should be loaded to about 20 – 25 % under its nominal
capacity to ensure even dyeing results (strong swelling of regenerated
cellulose).

• The speed of circulation should be as low as possible but selected as

quickly as necessary.

• The nozzle of the jet should be opened so that it is as wide as possible

and the nozzle pressure should be as low as possible i.e. dyeing should
be performed as “gently” as possible to prevent hairiness and keep the
extension as low as possible.
Machines with a great distance between the liquor surface and the
guiding winch are not to be recommended for these reasons.

Especially for knitwear it is important to proceed with the lowest

possible tension lengthwise. It is of advantage to process on Softflow
machines for pretreatment and dyeing because they exert the lowest
tension on the fabric lengthwise.
 • Unloading the dyed fabrics:

Care should be taken to open the rope, unravel or cutting the tube,
removal of water(centrifuging / squeezing /suck off) and flat-fold the
fabrics in an exact state immediately after the fabrics have been
unloaded.
(In most cases centrifuging the fabrics results in creases.)
If the fabrics are stored too long in a wet state in rope form, permanent
creases can form which can no longer be removed as a result of
subsequent stretching, smoothing out etc..

5. Drying:

A belt dryer is best suited with a feed pin stenter with overfeed equipment i.e.
the fabric is slightly overstretched with regard to the width, max. overfeed
length-wise and then dried on the relaxation belt at a maximum of 130°C
266°F– or as an alternative drying is performed on a stenter frame with an
overfeed and placing the feeding section even wider likewise at 130°C. 266°F

To achieve the best possible shrinkage it is of advantage to dry the Viscose

fabrics on relaxing or belt driers (e.g. Santex relax drier).
For the drying on a standard stenterframe it is even more important to set the
maximum possible overfeed to achieve a proper shrinkage. Fabrics are
padded with softeners also to apply the same moisture over the whole fabric
and to guarantee an even and equal drying and shrinkage effect.

Please check the shrinkage of your greige Modal fabric in advance to set
the proper width and overfeed of the fabric for drying to optimise the
shrinkage.
6. Finishing of CMD fabrics:

Likewise finishing with a cross-linking agent, for example in the way that
follows, can be highly recommended since this enhances dimensional stability
as well as improving the tendency to pilling.

Example for a high-grade-finishing recipe:

approx. 50 – 60 g/l of low formaldehyde ( DMDHEU)

approx. 13 – 16 g/l catalyst (MgCl2) – approx. 25-30 % of the resin
amount
approx. 20 g/l polyethylene emulsion
approx. 20 g/l softener

additional using of crosslinking Polyurethan products achieve better

results in term of fluffiness and pilling in subsequent household washing

pH of bath approx. 5.5 – 6.5

Large quantities of silicone softeners often have a negative impact on pilling

behaviour.

Pick up approx. 70 %
Drying and curing for 3 – 4 min. at 150°C 302°F or
45 – 60 sec. at 170°C 340°F

An enzyme treatment to remove hairiness is not possible.

7. Final finish:
Compacting the fabrics leads to greater dimensional stability and a special
handle and sheen.
The pre-requisite for this is a residual moisture of at least approx. 11 – 13 %.
Fabrics which are too dry tend to fall apart again after compacting!
8. Material testing - utility values:
Control shrinkage values (dimension stability)

For 100% Modal fabrics it is somewhat harder to achieve a good dimension

stability, compared to blends with elastane.

Summary: Processing 100% Modal (CMD)

- Testing of shrinkage behaviour of the greige fabric in advance.
- Gentle treatment in preparation and dyeing (low elongation)
- Drying and Relaxing: Belt driers, relaxing driers
- Finishing: better washing appearance: pilling and fluffiness
- Compacting: take care of moisture on the fabric in advance

Lenzing AG, Technical Marketing, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria

Tel.: (+43) 7672 701 3448, Fax: (+43) 7672 701 3222
email: tech.marketing@lenzing.com