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I take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to Mr. Dinesh Thakur for his cordial
support, valuable information and guidance, which helped me in learning various tasks through
diverse stages.
I am also obliged to Mrs. Shruti karkra, Assistant Professor, Amity University Haryana and staff
members of Electronics and Communication Engineering Department, Amity University for the
valuable information provided by them in their respective fields. I am grateful for their indirect
cooperation during the period of my Internship.
I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my Head of Department Dr. Janak Baldev Bhai Patel
for giving me the opportunity to complete my summer training. It would never be possible for us
to take this report to this level without his innovative ideas and his relentless support and
encouragement.
My efforts and wholehearted co-corporation of each and every one has ended on a successful note.
I express my sincere gratitude to Mrs. Shruti Kakra who assisting me throughout the preparation
of this topic. I thank him for providing me the reinforcement, confidence and most importantly the
track for the topic whenever I needed it.
CONTENT
CHAPTER 1
CHAPTER 2
CHAPTER 3
CHAPTER 4
4.1 references.............................................................................................28
Maintenance of Electrical Equipment
INTRODUCTION
Let's begin with the alternator. Its job is to keep the battery fully charged and to provide a steady
supply of electricity to the vehicle's electrical components while the engine is running. A byproduct
of producing electricity is heat, which is why every alternator has an integral fan to push cooling air
through the alternator, plus lots of cooling vents on the front, back and sides to let the heat escape.
To keep the alternator from overheating, make sure it's clean and free of any dirt, grease or other
debris on its exterior. Anything that traps the heat inside the alternator will kill it in short order.
Check the condition of the electrical connections on the alternator and at the battery. Loose or
corroded connections will rob a percentage of the alternator's output, causing it to work even harder
to keep up with the vehicle's electrical demands. If the connections are loose or dirty, remove and
clean them thoroughly. If a connector or terminal is too far gone to save, replace it. Likewise, an
alternator can't be expected to deliver its rated output if its belt is loose, worn or damaged. If the belt
is still serviceable, adjust its tension. If it looks marginal, replace it.
While you're checking belt tension or replacing the belt itself, also check the condition of the
alternator mounting hardware. If the alternator is loose, it will be subjected to jarring and vibration,
which may damage its internal components. Also, most alternators rely on their mounting hardware
for a grounding source. so, a loose alternator will not be able to deliver its full rated output to the
rest of the electrical system, due to the voltage drop at the poor grounding point. The alternator will
be forced to work extra hard all of the time, in what may be a losing battle to keep up. An overworked
alternator will die an early death.
The starter has just one job to perform: to start the engine. The rest of the time, it's just along for the
ride. But the importance of that one job can't be overstated or undervalued; there wouldn't be a ride
if the engine didn't start. The starter asks for only a couple of things in return-a big jolt of current
once in a while and a clean and dry place to live the rest of the time.
The first requirement is relatively easy to satisfy. Make sure the battery terminal clamps are clean
and tight so the battery can supply the starter's demands for mass quantities of current. The battery
must be able to pass a load test, with a reasonable cushion. The starter's electrical connections must
also be clean and tight, and the heavy starter cable between the battery and starter must be in good
condition. If there are any junctions along the way, make sure the connections at those points are
clean and tight as well.
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Like the alternator, the starter relies on the engine as a grounding point. The starter mounting
hardware must be clean and tight. Also check the condition of the ground between the engine and
the battery. Anything that causes a voltage drop on either the negative or positive side of the starter
circuit will keep the starter from delivering its full cranking power.
Many starters are tucked out of the way near the bottom of the engine. Gravity being what it is, this
also means that any fluid leaks will eventually find their way to the bottom of the engine. A starter
motor that's soaked with coolant, oil or other gunk can't be expected to work properly. And if it's
been soaking for an extended period of time, it may decide to die at a very inconvenient time. Locate
the original source of the fluid leaks, repair them, then take the time to thoroughly clean the starter
and the surrounding area. When everything's cleaned up, test the starter/battery circuit to make sure
the starter hasn't suffered any permanent damage due to the gunk bath. If it's marginal or fails the
test, replace the starter.
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CHAPTER 1
ALTERNATOR
1.1 Definition
An alternator is an electrical generator that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy in the
form of alternating current. Most alternators use a rotating magnetic field with stationary armature.
It is also known as synchronous generator.
1.2.1 Stator:
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3.The armature winding is housed in it.
Figure.2. stator
1.2.2 Rotor:
Figure.3. Rotor
The working principle of alternator depends upon Faraday’s law of electromagnetic- induction.
The current is induced in the conductor inside a magnetic field when there is a relative motion
between that conductor & the magnetic field.
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1.For understanding working of alternator let’s assume a single rectangular turn placed in between
two Opposite magnetic pole as shown.
2. The single turn loop ABCD starts rotating clockwise starts rotating a-b.
3. After 90° rotation the side AB or conductor AB of the loop comes in front of s-pole& conductor
CD comes in front of N-pole.
4.As per Fleming right hand rule the direction of this current will be from A to b.at the same time
conductor CD comes under N -pole& here also if we apply Fleming right hand rule we will get the
direction of included current& it will be from C to D.
5. Now after clockwise rotation of another 90° the turn ABCD comes at vertical position as shown
below. At this position tangential motion of conductor AB and CD is just parallel to the magnetic
flux lines hence there will be no flux no current in the conductors.
5
p
6.While the turn ABCD comes from horizontal position to position angle between flux lines and
o
direction of motion of conductor, reduces from 90° to 0° and consequently the induced current in
s turn is reduced to zero from its maximum value
the
i
t
i
o
n
,
7.As at this position the turn comes at horizontal position from its vertical position, the current in
the conductors comes to its maximum value from zero. That means current is circulating in the close
turn from point B to A, from A to D, from D to C and from C to B.
8.During every full revolution of the turn, the current in the turn gradually reaches to its maximum
value then reduces to zero and then again it comes to its maximum value but in opposite direction
and again it comes to zero.
9. In this way the current completes one full sine wave form during each 360° revolution of the turn.
Thus, an alternating current is produced in a turn is rotated inside a magnetic field. From this, we
come to the actual working principle of alternator
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1.3.1 Understanding the Alternator
The charging system has three major components. The Regulator, alternator, and the regulator.
This alternator works together with the battery to supply power when the vehicle is
running.
The output of an alternator is direct current, however AC voltage is actually created and
then converted to DC as voltage leaves the alternator on its way to the battery and the
electrical loads.
Figure.4
• Four wires connect the alternator to the rest of the charging system.
• L is the wire the regulator uses to ground the charge warning lamp.
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Figure.5.
• Unlike other manufacturers, this model can be easily serviced from the rear on the unit.
• However, today’s practice is to correctly diagnose the problem and replace the alternator as
a unit, should one of its internal components fail.
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Figure.6.
• Note this alternator does not have an external fan as part of the pulley assembly.
• While many manufacturers do use an external fan for cooling. This alternator has two
internal fans to draw air in for cooling
The rotor winding assembly rotates inside the stator winding. The rotor generates a
magnetic field.
The stator winding develops voltage and current begins to flow from the induced magnetic
field of the rotor
A basic rotor consists of a iron core, coil winding, two slip rings, and two claw-shaped finger pole
pieces.
• Some models include support bearings and one or two internal cooling fans.
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• The rotor is driven or rotated inside the alternator by an engine (alternator) drive belt.
The rotor contains the field core which is part of the shaft.
• The rotor assembly is supported by bearings. One on the shaft the other in the drive frame
The magnetic field is saturating pole become a north pole and the other a south pole.
The rotor spins creating an North, South, North, South, etc.
The alternating magnetic field from the spinning rotor induces an alternating voltage into
the stator winding.
The strength of the magnetic field and the speed of the rotor affect the amount of voltage
induced into the stator.
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Neutral Junction in the Wye design can be identified by the 6 strands of wire
1.3.11 Diodes
Diodes are used as one-way electrical check valves. Passing current in only one direction, never in
reverse.
Diodes are mounted in a heat sink to dissipate the heat generated by the diodes.
Diodes redirect the AC voltage into DC voltage so the battery receives the correct polarity.
Figure.7.
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1.3.13 Working Alternator
Synchronous generators are classified in two categories according to its rotor construction:
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Figure.9.
Stator Faults
Rotor Faults
Operational Faults
Stator faults are those which occur on the stator of the Alternator. These faults can be categorized
into
2. Phase-to-Earth faults which occur between a phase and the ground and
3. Inter-turn Faults which occur between the turns of a winding of the same phase.
Stator faults occur due to failure of the winding insulation. The heat generated by these faults can
cause serious damage to the laminated core of the Stator. This may require expensive re-insulation
and rebuilding
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1.5.2 Rotor Faults
Rotor Faults on the Alternator when the rotor winding gets grounded or short circuited. The rotor
winding is usually ungrounded; hence the first earth fault is not always obvious. However, if a
second earth fault occurs on the rotor, the fault becomes a virtual short-circuit through the rotor
body.
a) Overloading
Overloading causes the flow of high currents which causes the stator winding to heat up.
b) Reverse Power
This occurs due to failure of the prime mover and insufficient torque supplied to the generator.
c) Under Excitation
Under excitation occurs when the excitation to the generator is cut off and the Power factor goes to
the leading side. This can lead to the failure of the diodes on the rotor and pole slipping.
Negative Phase sequence occurs when the Alternator is loaded in an unbalanced manner. That is,
the current on the three phases are not balanced. This results in heating of the Alternator rotor.
e) Overvoltage
Overvoltage occurs due to failure of the excitation control system. If the excitation input to the
alternator does not match the voltage. It can result in the voltage rising above normal levels and the
risk of the winding insulation getting damaged.
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f) Overspeeding
Over speeding is an extremely serious and dangerous condition. This occurs when the speed
controller regulating the speed of the prime mover fails. When the speed of the alternator
rises above the nominal speed, the centrifugal forces developed within the Alternator are so
enormous that the poles of a salient pole rotor can get damaged and can come out of the
rotor. This can then hit the stator and the alternator will be severely damaged.
Very little maintenance is required on a modern alternator other than checking of the tension and
condition of the driving belt at every 10,000 km and checking the brush at ever’ 65,000 km drive.
At times when an under-bonnet check is being made for general security of all items, the alternator
mounting and cable condition should be examined.
Equipment needed for testing a charging system on the vehicle include a DC moving-coil
voltmeter, 0-20 V, and a DC moving-coil ammeter, 5-0-100 A.
Since many different types of charging system are used, the following is intended to outline the
basic method for diagnosing a fault.
(a) Drive Belt. The condition the tension of drive belt should be checked and adjusted.
(b) Visual Check. All cables and connections should be checked for security.
(c) Cable Continuity. The connector is removed from the alternator, the ignition is switched-on
and the p.d. is checked at each of the leads. No voltage at any one lead indicates an open circuit,
and in the case of the TND’ lead, the charging light bulb may be defective.
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(d) Alternator Output. Since maximum output is not supplied from the alternator when the battery
is fully charged, all loads (excluding wipers) are switched-on for about one minute. With the
ammeter securely connected in series with the output lead(s), the engine is run-up to about 3000
rpm. The output at this stage should not be less than the manufacture’s specification.
If the output is considerably less than the specified value, the alternator should be removed and
examined. Prior to removing the unit, the output test should be repeated with disconnected surge
protection diode, if fitted. This test shows the condition of the diode.
(e) Voltage Drop of External Circuit. A voltmeter is connected across the insulated output cable(s)
from alternator to battery. With all loads on (except wipers) the engine is run-up to about 3000 rpm
and the reading is noted. If the voltage drop is more than 0.5 V on any
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Figure.13. External circuit voltage drops.
alternator charging system, a high resistance in that line is indicated. Sometimes a similar check is
made on the earth line to ensure the voltage drop is less than 0.25 V.
(/) Regulator Operation. Voltmeter is placed across the battery and an ammeter is connected in
series with the main output lead (s). The engine is run at about 3000 rpm until the ammeter shows a
charging current of less than 10 A. At this point the voltmeter should indicate 13.6-14.
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CHAPTER 2
STARTER
2.1 Definition
Figure.15. Starter
Turning on the start starts a progression of occasions that in the end guarantee that the auto runs the
motor and the driver prepares it for use. To begin with the battery control streams to the solenoid
before it sends ebbs and flows to the starter engine pushing the starter rigging to connect with the
fly wheel after which the engine is stirred to turn the crankshaft of the motor.
Figure.16.
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If the starter framework is useful then the motor will begin. This is a procedure that takes
milliseconds to happen and broken starter engines won't work and rather require Starter motor
repairs. The starter frame work is comprised of various parts which may be what should be replaced
or repaired so they can cooperate to make the starting process swift
Figure.17. figure.18.
1.Start - It is the part where the auto keys enter and it's alongside your guiding wheel. The bolt barrel
where the key fits turns the switch interfacing the starter and the battery. It accordingly, should be
in a position to connect with the starter.
Figure.19.
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2.Starter engine - This is a little electrical gad get that gives energy to the motor. It has curls inside
it which turn carbon brushes to rub the insides before sending current to solenoid.
Figure.20
3.Solenoid - The starter solenoid can be characterized as an electric hand-off shutting the starter
frame work circuit when the engine initiates it. It pushes the starter apparatus to the motor fly wheel
that enables parts to move when the starter engine is prepared.
4.Battery cables - They associate the battery terminal to the motor chamber and the starter solenoid
to give control from the battery to the engine so the motor turns on.
figure.21.
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2.3 Function of Starter
4.Protect motor and other connected equipment’s from over voltage, no voltage, under voltage,
single phasing etc.
At starting, the speed of motor is zero so that the back e.m.f. In the armature is zero. Armature
resistance is so low, if it is connected to power supply directly; huge current will pass thru armature.
The huge current may damage the machine, major heat, very high speed in case of DC series motor.
IA = V/Ra.
terminals.
21
Pinion: Not meshing or jammed due to a worm flywheel ring gear.
2.6 Symptoms
Table.1
Figure.22.
As previously stated starter motors rarely fair without warning, symptoms such as turning the
engine slowly, Bendix jamming and intermittent operation will usually occur before total failure. If
you start to experience any of the above symptoms action should be taken as soon as possible to
remedy the situation before you get stranded.
On most classics removing the starter motor is not a difficult job, there are few electrical
connections (always label these anyway) and usually only a couple of bolts to remove. Once
removed from the car the starter can be dismantled on a clean work surface. Do not submerge the
unit in cleaning fluid as this will distribute copper and carbon dust into the electrical windings
causing short circuits and will result in having to purchase a new starter motor. Instead use either
compressed air (always wear the appropriate eye protection and dust mask) or a clean lint free
cloth dampened in cleaning fluid to clean up any dust inside the casings. The Bendix gear can at
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this point be inspected for any signs of damage or wear. The spring return should also be checked
and if this is non-operational the sub assembly can be replaced, if you are not confident doing this
yourself then your old unit can be used as an exchange item for a new starter motor. This is much
cheaper than buying a new unit outright.
Figure.23.
The main shaft bushes on the front and rear end plates also need to be checked and renewed if
necessary. Check the length of the carbon brushes and compare the length with the workshop
manual. If they are outside this recommended length then they should be replaced. Replacing the
brushes usually involves soldering, which is not difficult, but if you do not have the equipment or
the ability to solder then and auto electrician will be able to change them for you. Alternatively, you
could get an exchange unit, but this is far costlier than changing the brushes.
The electrical windings should be checked for any signs of damage or scorching that would indicate
a fault.
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Figure.24.
The commutator assembly should be checked to ensure the contact surface is clean and smooth, if it
is dirty it can be cleaned with a cloth dampened in contact cleaner. The commutator can then be
carefully polished with very fine emery paper, making sure that the armature and windings are kept
clean. If it commutator is very badly scored then it will need to be turned on a highspeed lathe taking
only the finest of cuts, as most people do not have access to such equipment purchase of an exchange
unit is recommended. Never undercut the insulation material between the copper segments or
damage will occur resulting in the starter motor being scrapped.
If possible before refitting to the car, bench test the unit in a vice. Use jump leads and connect one
lead to the starters terminal and the other to the bracket that attaches the unit to the engine (always
check polarity before applying voltage). The starter motor should then spin at high speeds without
the load of the engine. Check that the Bendix gear moves along the shaft towards the main body of
the unit, and returns as the unit stops spinning. The Unit can now be refitted and you can be confident
you won’t be stranded on a cold wet night due to starter motor failure.
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CHAPTER 3
Conclusion
Finally, select the best motor-maintenance techniques. For each type of motor, controller, or related
equipment, a variety of maintenance methods may be selected. Choose the best methods and
determine to what extent they should be applied. For example, should you check for possible bearing
trouble on a motor simply by feeling components for over temperature and listening for unusual
sounds, or should you install temperature monitoring devices and make inspections using a
stethoscope or an infrared scanner?
Bearing inspection. Bearing failures are one of the most common causes of motor failures. Typical
bearing problems include improper lubrication, misalignment of the motor with the load,
replacement with the wrong type bearing, excessive loading, and harsh environments.
Cleanliness. In poor environments, blow out dirt weekly; in normal environments, a quarterly or
semi-annual cleaning should be adequate. Make sure that dust or contamination is kept off high-
voltage equipment. This is important because dust may contain conducting materials that could form
unwanted circuit paths, resulting in current leakage or possible grounds or short circuits.
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Moving parts inspection. Moving parts should operate easily without excessive friction. Check
operation of contactors and relays by hand, feeling for any binding or sticking. Look for loose pins,
bolts, or bearings. If the control is dirty, it should be wiped or blown clean.
Contact inspection. Check contacts for pitting and signs of overheating, such as discoloration of
metal, charred insulation, or odor. Be sure contact pressure is adequate and the same on all poles;
verify with manufacturer's specification. Watch for frayed flexible leads.
Contact resistance testing. On essential controls, perform contact-resistance tests with a low-
resistance ohmmeter on a regular basis. Proper contact resistance should be about 50 micro-ohms.
Record readings for future comparison. This will indicate trends in the condition of contacts.
Overload relay inspection. Overload relays should receive a thorough inspection and cleaning. You
also should check for proper setting. In general, maintenance requirements for these relays include
checking that the rating or trip setting takes into account ambient temperature as well as the higher
inrush currents of modern, energy-efficient motors. You also should verify that contacts are clean
and free from oxidation and that the relay will operate dependably when needed. Relays should be
tested and calibrated every one to three years. Special equipment such as an OL relay tester can be
used.
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REFERENCES
1. https://www.electrical4u.com/working-principle-of-alternator/
3. https://www.scribd.com/document/183279531
4. https://www.giz.de/expertise/.../en-automotive-auto-electric-basic-technology-part
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