A Complete Guide of Industrial Garment Merchaindiser

2018
A COMPLETE GUIDE
OF INDUSTRIAL
GARMENT
MERCHANDISER
ONLY FOR MBA PROFESSIONALS
Edited By : DiponChanda
AAA
[Type the company name]
1/1/2018
DIPON BUFT
ABSTRACT
From the earliest weaves uncovered by archaeologists to today’s machine-produced,
scientifically advanced fabrics, textiles have had a profound influence on civilization. As
technologies change and world economics influence the direction that fashion and textiles take, it
is vital that both skills and our textile vocabulary should be kept alive.
This encyclopaedia is a definitive reference guide to all the major types of fabric in circulation
today, from abbot cloth to zibeline. In clear and engaging language, the author
( DIPON CHANDA) describes and illustrates more than 260 of the most important examples,
from classic tweeds to state-of-the-art nano fabrics.Each entry includes a brief definition,
informative notes on structure, and a list of uses. More illustrations show a fabric’s weave,
texture, and other defining characteristics at a glance, and helpful diagrams demonstrate the
structure of the most important types of textiles. The book concentrates on textiles in current use,
but it also covers obscure or obsolete terms that one might come across—and that might still
have something to teach today’s designers, manufacturers, and textile historians.Each entry is
carefully cross-referenced, and the book includes an extensive glossary and bibliography.
BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 2

DIPON BUFT
PERSONAL MESSAGE FROM WRITTER
The Book is a complete guide of Industrial Garment Merchandiser totally dedicated to my

BGMEA University Teachers, my Mom & Dad. Frankly speaking when I am writing &
collected these articles or cryption as a book for the student of Apparel Merchandiser who is
completing fresh MBA in Apparel Merchandising & who is Facing the written or viva test in
the Job sector..My whole Knowledge is also deliverying on these book as a Merchandiser of
Those People who want to wish, develop & build up theire carrier as a Merchandiser (
Professionally) these book is such a kind of big reward for them. So reading out these book if u
find any wrong please forgive me & contact with these email address # dipkhan611@gmail.com

DIPON BUFT
Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel Job:

Some important interview questions have presented in the below with their
answers:
1. What is Garment?
A garment is the piece of clothing.
2. What is sample in garments?
The garment which is needed for bulk production or which is used through the
process sequence is called sample.
3. What is counter sample in garments?
The sample which is followed by the approved sample is called counter sample.
4. What is approved sample?

According to all the required specifications the sample which is approved
by buyer is called approved sample.
5. What is pattern?
It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications and individual
components.
6. What is production pattern?
It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.
7. What is working pattern?

It is a pattern of a particular style with the net dimension.
Production pattern = working pattern + allowance
8. What is marker?
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a
particular style of garments.
9. What is lining?
A generic term for fabrics which is used to cover inner surfaces of products,
especially the inner face employs different materials from the outer surface.
10. What is interlining?
It is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in
garments to support, re-enforce and control areas of garments and to retain actual
shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing and bonding.
11. What is lay?
It is stack of fabric lengths made in preparation for cutting.

DIPON BUFT
12. What is ligne number?

It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicated the diameter of button. If
diameter increases, ligne number also increases.
13. What is L/C?

L/C means letter of credit. It is commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the
importer in favor of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer
countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within
stated period. It will be paid in exchange of documents under certain items and
condition.
14. What is invoice?
After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents
mentioning the price is sent to the buyer for collecting is called invoice.
15. What is quota?

It is an agreement between governments of the importer country and the exporter
country. In details it is the quantities of garments of different categories upon
the manufacturing countries according to the business policy.
16. What is FOB?
FOB means free on board. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice without
transport cost then it is called FOB.
17. What is C&F?

C&F means cost and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice
including transport cost then it is called C&F.
18. What is CIF?

CIF means cost, insurance and freight. If the price of the goods is mentioned in
invoice including transport cost and insurance cost then it is called CIF.
19. What is category?

Category is a number which indicated what type of fabric is used for making the
particular garment and it also indicated the type of this garment.
20. What is face of fabric?
The surface of the fabric that is intended to be seen because it presents s better
appearance than the other side due to its characteristics i.e. weaves, luster, finish
etc. in many fabrics, especially industrial fabrics, face and back are identical.

DIPON BUFT
21. What is faced cloth?

A term sometimes applied to the fabrics that have a separate set of warp or filling
yarns on the back of the cloth i.e. pile fabric, flannel fabric.
22. What is fusing?
The term generally refers to partial melting. In bonding, fabric layers are joined
together by fusion of an adhesive under heat and pressure.
23. What is the abbreviation of G/D?

G/D stands for grams per denier.
24. What is gauge?

In knitted fabrics, it is a measure of fineness or number of wales per unit of width
across the fabric. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer texture.
25. What is grading?
When different sizes of patterns are made from the master pattern of
the garment is called grading.
Types of Packing in Finishing Section:
There are so many packing types followed in apparel industry. The following are the
most used among those:
1. Flat pack (Shirt, sportswear, trouser),
2. Stand up pack (90° angle),
3. Semi-stand up pack (for shirt),
4. Hanger pack (for coats, blazer, pants),
5. Half fold pack (for pant).
Types of Carton Packing in Apparel Industry:
After packing the apparel, cartooning is done according to the apparel size and color in
apparel manufacturing sector. Mostly used carton packing types have given in the
below though there are various types of cartoon packing in clothing sector:
1. Solid color solid size carton packing,

2. Solid color assorted size carton packing,
3. Assorted color solid size carton packing,
4. Assorted color assorted carton packing.
Packing List Documents in Apparel Sector:

Packing list (P/L) is known as an inventory of the incoming cargo which is required for
customs clearance in apparel shipment and accompanying the commercial invoice and
the transport documents.
During apparel shipment, packing list generally includes the below information’s or
documents:

DIPON BUFT
1. Name of the exporter,
2. Name of the importer,
3. Name of the transport company,
4. Date of issue,
5. Number of the freight invoice,
6. Type of packaging (carton, box, barrel, bag, etc.),
7. Total number of packages,
8. Content of each package (Details description of the goods and number of items
per package),
9. Marks and numbers,
10. Gross weight, net weight, and measurement of the packages.
1. Why de-size or de-sizing process is important in garment washing?

De-sizing is so much important due to the below reasons:
 To remove the sizing materials.

 To remove the starch.
 To increase the water absorption capacity.
 To modify for scouring and bleaching.
 To increase the affinity of fabric to chemicals.
 To increase the luster after dyeing and printing.
2. What types of problem arise at de-sizing process?
The following problems have arisen during de-sizing process:
 If the water is less crease mark will come.

 If antiback stainer is less, back staining is more that affect the pocket.
 Garments will dull if back staining is more.
 If the de-size process will not good, the next process will be affected.
3. Why enzyme process is so important in garment washing?
Some important reasons for which enzyme process is so much important
in garments wash:
 To remove the color from fabric.
 To achieve desired shade.
 To achieve cast color.
 To achieve desired abrasion.
 To increase the cleanliness of garments.
4. What types of problems occurred during enzyme process?
There are some common problems which are seen during enzyme process
mentioned in the below:
 If water less, crease mark will come.
 If enzyme time is more, seam will be damaged.

DIPON BUFT
 If enzyme percentage is more that time indigo will lose before
abrasion coming.
 If enzyme percentage will less, time required more and garments will
be damaged.
5. Why bleaching process is important in garment washing?

For the below reasons, bleaching has great importance in garments
washing:
 To remove the natural color.
 To clean up the garments.
 To remove stain from the apparel.
 To get the desired shade provided by the buyer.
6. What types of problem happened during bleaching stages?
There are some problems which are frequently happened during bleaching
process:
 If the water percentage is low that time crease mark will come.
 If bleach percentage is more, garments will loose the color very
quickly.
 If the machine will not running at the time of bleach
added, bleach spot will come there.
 If the machine RPM is high then garments shade will be uneven.
7. Mention some problems that happened for resin application in
garment washing.
Those problems are mentioned in the below:
 If the resin application is more on specific area that garments will tear.
 If we use the same process more than one time then tear may come.
 If oven time is more, tear may come.
 If oven temperature is excessively high, tear m ay come.
 If we used resin more, garments will hard more.
 Due to using of resin, garments will be unwanted spotted.
 Due to using of resin, sometimes pocket may damage.
8. What are the processes normally used in the dry process section of
garment washing?
All the important dry processes of garments washing have pointed out in
the below:
 Hand sand,
 Sand blasting,
 Whisker,

DIPON BUFT
 Destroy,
 PP spray,
 Tagging,
 Grinding,
 Crinkle,
 3D crinkle,
 Heat pressing,
 PP rubbing,
 Resin spray,
 Pocket marking,
 Seam marking,
 Centre crease,
 Pigment spray,
 Crimping,
 PP spot,
 Bleach spot,
 Resin spot etc.
9. Which types of wash mainly applied in garment washing?
There are various types of wash applied in garments washing. Those
are in the following:
 Light wash,
 Rinse wash,
 Sand wash,
 Garment wash,
 Enzyme wash,
 Bleach wash,
 Enzyme bleach wash,
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash,
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash + bleach wash,
 Softener silicon wash,
 Acid wash,
 Tie wash,
 Towel bleach wash,
 Crystal wash,
 Rubber ball wash etc.
10. Point out some problems that happened during garment washing.
Some common problems of garments washing are in the below:
 Fabric strength sometimes less.
 Zipper color changed due to alkali solution.
 Fabrics weight less.

DIPON BUFT
 If the garments load is high then crease mark will come.
 If garments load is high at hydro then crease mark will come.
 If time is more at hydro, garments will be damaged by its tension.
Interview Question and Answer for Apparel Merchandiser:

The below interview question and answer are very important to
get garments merchandising job.
1. What is grain line?
Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern
pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grain line
should be parallel to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in case
of knitted fabric. Only the exception is seen for bias cut.
2. What is handle?
It is a characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, squeezing
or rubbing them.
3. What is hip?
It is a specified level down from the waist seam and garment closed
measure straight across garment, from one edge to the other.
4. What is waist?
Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and
back waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of
waistband or along elastic relaxed from one edge to other.
5. What is sleeve length?

It is the measurement from center back neck seam or edge straight across
to shoulder or armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to bottom edge
of sleeve opening.
6. What is sleeve inseam?
Measurement from under armhole seam to bottom edge of sleeve opening
(cuff included) with vent closed (if applicable).
7. What is pleat?
It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made by
folding the fabric. Dart and pleat both are used in the back part of
the Men’s shirt usually.
8. What is inseam length?

DIPON BUFT
Along inside seam of leg, measurement from crotch seam down to bottom
edge of leg opening. Rib or elastic bands included in this measurement.
9. What is drape?
It is a character of fabric which indicates flexibility and suppleness
of fabric.
10. What is durable press (DP)?
The name given to a special finish that provides the garments with shape
retention, durable pleats and pressed creases, durably smooth seams and
wrinkle resistance during use and after laundering or dry cleaning. Durable
press also can be added to the stretch fabrics to produce garments that
stretch yet hold their shape and their creases.
11. What is double faced fabric?
Cloth with both ends similar is termed as double faced fabric.
12. What is basic block?

Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on papers each and individual
part without any allowance which is called pattern and it is called also
basic block.
13. What is crease?
Crease is any kinds of folding in cloths.
14. What is color bleeding?

It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partially gone into the
water if such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent. Pigment dye come
out from one place to another and is stuck place near by suck
characteristics is called color bleeding.
15. What is crocking?
Crocking is the act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing
or scouring.
16. What is back length or HPS?

HPS stands for high point of shoulder. Normally it is known as back length
which is measured from high point of shoulder down to bottom edge of
garment.
17. What is back rise?

It is the measure from crotch intersection point, along center back seam
following curve up to waistband top edge.

DIPON BUFT
18. What is CBN?

CBN stands for center back neck. It is the measure from center back neck
seam or edge down to bottom edge of garment.
19. What is blind stitch?

It is a special type of stitch that cannot see from the face side of the fabric
but can easily see from the back side.
20. What is back stitch?
It is one kinds of hand stitch for sewing the apparels, which could also do
by using sewing machine.
21. What is CF Line?
The straight line bottom to up vertically along the middle point of the body
front of a shirt or jacket.
22. What is bar tack?
Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area of a high
load bearing strength (E.g. belt loops and pocket corner are bar tacked).
23. What is back tacking?

Approximately 1cm or small stitch backward at the beginning
and finishing of sewing, which is used securing of the sewn end so that
the thread could not be loosed easily.
24. What is allowance?
When garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension
of the garment is called allowance.
25. What is back rise?

The distance from the crotch back waist line is called back rise.
26. What is across back?

It is the measure of straight across back of garment at the midpoint of arm
hole seam or edge from one side to other.
Career in Garment Merchandising: Common Questions from Fresher

15 important questions have presented in the below:
1. What is garment merchandising?

DIPON BUFT
2. How much educational qualifications required being a garment
merchandiser?
3. At the earlier stage, any experience required in
garment merchandising?
4. How a person can be a part of garment merchandising profession?
5. In which way, job should be searched in garment merchandising?
6. What is the application method for the post of apparel
merchandiser?
7. What are the key points should include in the CV for the post of
garment merchandiser?
8. How does the selection procedure for the post of garment
merchandiser?
9. Which types of questions have to solve in written exam?
10. Which kinds of questions asked in oral exam?
11. Mention some key points followed by the recruiter during oral
examination?
12. What is the working procedure of apparel merchandiser?
13. How much importance of English, Computer and Communication
build-up efficiency in garment merchandising?
14. What are the salary structure and other opportunities for a garment
merchandiser?
15. What is your advice for the new comers?
All the above questions have answered in the following:
1. What is garment merchandising?
Merchandising comes from the word merchandise that means goods
bought and sold and trading of goods. So, merchandising is an activity of
selling and promoting the goods. These activities are done by a garment
merchandiser by interacting with the buyer and manufacturer. He also
makes good relation with the buyer or buying office or buying agents or
buying agency and manufacturer in terms of execution of garment export
order.
2. How much educational qualifications required being a garment
merchandiser?
There are no specific educational criteria to be a garment merchandiser.
The person has at least honor’s degree from any subject from any reputed
university can make his career in readymade garments sector. But, it’s a
great advantage for those applicants who are certified from the textile or
garments manufacturing department from any reputed university. Because,
they have enough idea about the product of RMG sector from it’s growing
stage to finishing stage.

DIPON BUFT
3. At the earlier stage, any experience required in garment

merchandising?
Experience is all time a key factor for any types of job. It is the same in
case of garment merchandising. At the earlier stage of
garment merchandising, experience is not enough necessary for trainee
apparel merchandiser but he must have minimum idea about the products
or merchandising terms of this sector. It’s great news for the fresher’s that
the leading garment factories and buying offices are creating more
opportunities for the fresh merchandisers at the current period of time.
Anyone can join here as a trainee merchandiser or
assistant merchandiser under the garment merchandising department.
4. How a person can be a part of garment merchandising profession?
Before coming in this sector, applicant has to gather all types of basic
knowledge’s related with the readymade garment products. Example: types
of products produced, fabric types,
knitting, dyeing, washing, embroidery and various terms or
abbreviations related with textile and apparel etc. Textile and apparel
certified persons are well known here but those who are certified from the
others department have to complete some short course related this sector
which are provided by so many institutions such as BGMEA, BUFT etc.
5. In which way, job should be searched in garment merchandising?
At first, have to prepare a CV by using normal font but not gorgeous. Then
it should submit to the different garment merchandisers by hand or via
email whether he has needed any merchandiser or not. The main
advantages from here that if there’s any opportunity then he may knock you
instantly. One of the key points to get a garment merchandising job is the
ability of communication build up with the persons related with garment
manufacturing sector specially garment merchandisers. Someone must
provide you an opportunity if you have ten known merchandisers.
Besides these, you can follow several online job sites and apply there. If
you find any circular then you should apply there not only in online but also
send your CV to the factory address or submit it by hand to hand. The
second step is very effective to get a job now a day. Unfortunately, there
are so many who still don’t know about it.
6. What is the application method for the post of apparel

merchandiser?
Already I have answered some portion of this question at question number-
05. The other words for this question are- applicant should submit their CV

DIPON BUFT
to the required address by hand or online within 1-3days of circular
publication. If you cross more than 5days it will reduce your possibility to
get job there. Because, application deadline is not followed maximum of the
time in readymade garments sector (not for all factories or buying
house).
7. What are the key points should include in the CV for the post of
There are some key points which must be included in the CV. Those ares-
 Career objective related with RMG sector,

 A least one sentence which will ensure your dedication to this sector,
 Mention the experienced side of garment merchandising (if
experienced),
 Point out the responsibilities at the previous organization (if
experienced),
 Mention the extra courses completed related this sector (if fresher),
 Mention about the English spoken course and Computer course (for
both fresher and experienced),
 A well-known reference name who can easily identify you and say
something about you.
8. How does the selection procedure for the post of garment
merchandiser?
Some points have considered at the initial stage of apparel
merchandiser recruitment. Those are-
 Applicant from the textile and apparel manufacturing department,
 Minimum idea related with readymade garments sector (if fresher),
 Experienced in the definite side of garment merchandising mentioned
in the circular (if experienced),
 Previous organizations (if experienced),
 Rapid job changing attitude,
 Graduated university or institutions,
 CGPA,
 English spoken course,
 Computer course.
9. Which types of questions have to solve in written exam?
In the most cases, written exam have done for the experienced applicants.
The question pattern is consist with the total parts
of garment merchandising such as determination of fabric
consumption, costing, knitting, dyeing, garment dyeing, over dyeing,

DIPON BUFT
cold dye, pigment dye, inside dye, outside dye, types of washing, sand
blasting, types of embroidery, embroidery costing, poly bag
consumption , poly bag costing, carton consumption, carton
costing local and international market research etc.
If there’s any written exam for the fresher’s then they have to prepare them-
self about different terms and abbreviations related with textile, garments
and buying house, basic idea about garment manufacturing, flow chart,
types of fabric, knitting, dyeing, washing, embroidery and various laws of
fabric consumption and costing etc.
10. Which kinds of questions asked in oral exam?
At the oral exam, questions normally asked from some important parts
of garment merchandising. Those are-
 Some common fabric name which are used in
apparel manufacturing (if fresher),
 Fabric identification (if experienced),
 Fabric GSM assumption (if experienced),
 Various costing terms,
 Different buying house terms,
 Some common abbreviations for textile and apparel technology,
 Identification of garment washes (if experienced).
11. Mention some key points followed by the recruiter during oral
examination?
There are some important key points which are followed by the recruiter
during oral examination. Those are-
 Fluent English spoken,

 Confident answer (though that is wrong answer),
 Attitude,
 Communication build-up efficiency,
 Eye contact with the recruiter,
 Afraid or not,
 Stylish,
 Over smart (negative).
12. What is the working procedure of apparel merchandiser?

In garment merchandising, working procedure of a garment merchandiser
is categorized into two. One is buying merchandiser working procedure
and another one is for factory merchandiser.
Buying merchandiser has to do the following jobs:

DIPON BUFT
 Buyer negotiation,
 Order received from the buyer,
 Fabric consumption,
 Costing,
 Factory evaluation,
 Order placement,
 Order follow-up,
 Passing necessary equipment’s or accessories to the factory,
 Manufacturing deadline follow-up,
 Garments production follow-up,
 Quality ensure,
 Goods sent to the buyer etc.
Factory merchandiser must have to follow the buying merchandiser. He
has to do that which buying merchandiser ordered. His only task is to
manufacture the garments by maintaining buying merchandiser’s
instruction. If found any problem then he should contact with the buying
merchandiser immediately.
There are also different working procedures for woven garment

merchandiser and knit garment merchandisers in garment
merchandising which you can learn from the given link.
13. How much importance of English, Computer and Communication
build-up efficiency in garment merchandising?
As a garment merchandiser, you have to communicate with the buyer by
using English language. If you are fluent in English then communication
build-up with them will be easy for you. As a result, English efficiency is a
crying needed for each and every apparel merchandiser. Not only English
but also computer and communication build-up efficiency has so
importance to be a perfect garment merchandiser.
14. What are the salary structure and other opportunities for a
Salary is well enough for the experienced garment merchandiser. In
readymade garments sector, if you are well experienced then you can
easily move yourself into the other organization with higher amount of
salary and other opportunities such as accommodation, cars etc.
For the fresher’s, salary normally starts from ten thousands taka which you
can change rapidly by proving yourself as a well experienced
merchandiser. It’s only possible due to your hard work.

DIPON BUFT
In readymade garment business of Bangladesh, the salary structure range
for the apparel merchandiser is ten thousands to four or five lakhs taka.
15. What is your advice for the new comers?

If you want to make your career in garment merchandising then you have
to prepare yourself by concentrating some key points. Those are-
 Dedication to the readymade garments sector,

 Job stamina,
 Tendency to take any kinds of challenge,
 Eagerness to learn something new,
 Don’t be idle,
 Proper using of time.
Finally one sentence is enough to make inspiration for you that is- if you
survive yourself just 4-5 years in this sector then you haven’t look back in
your next part of life. So, invest your next 4-5 years here and enjoy the rest
of the part of your life.
Difference between Trimmings and Accessories:

The main key differences are mentioned in the below in part by part:
Sl No. Subject Trimmings Accessories

The materials which are not attached
The materials which are attached with with the body of garments by sewing,
Technical the body of garments by sewing are only used for garments finishing and
01 Definition termed as trimmings. packing are termed as accessories
Non- Trimmings are the ultimate materials Accessories are the ultimate materials
Technical that are attached with the garments that are not attached with the garments
02 Definition while using by the end users. while using by the end users.
Trimmings are used as functional Accessories are used as decorative
03 Key Point purposes. purposes.
04 Example Sewing Thread, Button, Interlining etc. Carton, Gum Tape, Poly bag etc.

DIPON BUFT
Working procedures of a woven merchandiser:
The main working procedures of a woven garments merchandiser are
discussed in the below:
There are two important key factors for proper working procedure of a
woven garments merchandiser. By following it properly, anyone can touch
his/her target very easily.
Fabrics follow up
The first and most important one is “Fabrics follow up” and the second one
is “Order execution”. Among two key points, now I will discuss about the
very first important thing named “Fabric follow up”.
Fabric follow up contains the following issues:

1. Fabric booking and Requisition,
2. Fabric in-housed,
3. Local accessories booking,
4. Accessories development,
5. Accessories approval.
All the main five key factors for the “fabric follow-up” are discussed
in the below:
1. Fabricbookingand Requisition:
When the buyer forward his/her sample with all the details instruction, in
that time a woven garments merchandiser should be done fabric booking
and requisition by following the buyer’s instruction about the types of fabric
that he/she advised such as-Cotton denim, Spandex denim, Slub denim,
2/1 RHT etc and also on the basis of order quantity.
2.Fabricin-housed:
After completing the fabric booking, a woven garments merchandiser
should arrange the accurate fabric as per buyer’s instruction and also in-
hosed those before the print and embroidery approval (if there’s any print
and embroidery instruction).
3.Localaccessoriesbooking:
After completing all the above two steps, a merchandiser should confirm
the local accessories booking such as-Sewing thread, Zipper, Button, Metal
Rivet etc. and in-house those before staring the Sewing process.
4.Accessoriesdevelopment:
As per order specification, if there’s needed any accessories development
such as-Logo button, Logo rivet, Logo zipper puller, all types of label etc.
then those should be needed to develop with urgent basis.
5.Accessoriesapproval:
After completing the accessories development, these should be sent to the

DIPON BUFT
buyer for approval. When the merchandiser received the approval of those
accessories then he should managed the required amount of accessories
before starting the sewing process. Here one thing should be noted that, if
you are not able to manage all the local accessories before sewing, you
cannot control all the next processes in your own way. It’s a very important
tips for a garments merchandiser.
Order execution
The second important matter to send the shipment in timely is “Order
execution”
Order execution contains the following features:

1. Pattern making,
2. Print and embroidery development,
3. Fit sample making,
4. Wash development,
5. Wash approval,
6. Comments,
7. P.P sample making,
8. Cutting the fabric,
9. Print and embroidery,
10. Sewing,
11. Complete the washing process,
12. Finishing and QC check,
13. Shipment.
The above all thirteen features are discussed in the below:
1. Pattern making:
After receiving all the details from the buyer, a merchandiser should pass
urgently the entire reference sample with buyer’s details instruction to the
pattern section for making pattern.
2. Print and embroidery development:
If there are any print and embroidery, then it should be developed with
urgent basis by maintaining buyer’s instruction.
3.Fit sample making:
In the mean time, a merchandiser should make the fit sample by
maintaining buyer’s instruction. Here one thing should be noted that, in fit
sample, the using fabric may b varies than buyer nominated fabric, color
may be varies than buyer nominated color, but measurement must be
accurate as per buyers providing measurement sheet.
4. Wash development:
In woven merchandising, washing procedure is very important. Washing

DIPON BUFT
process is the heart of woven garments such as-Denim, twill etc. So it’s
needed an extra care in this process though it’s a time killing process. Here
a woven garments merchandiser should develop the wash process as per
buyer’s instruction.
5. Wash approval:
After developing the washing process, it should be approved by the buyer
with urgent basis. Because it has seen that a sample has to develop
several times due to its different shade than buyer providing original. Here
one thing should be noted that less time needed for wash approval, easy to
complete rest of the process.
6. Comments:
After making the fit sample it should send to the buyer for their comments.
When the buyer makes comment on fit sample, it must be noted and
following their comments for next steps.
7. P.P sample making:
P.P sample means pre production sample. It’s the approved sample for the
production. P.P sample should be made as per buyer’s instruction. Here all
are actual. All comments must be maintained accurately. After making P.P
sample it should sent to the buyer for approval. After receiving P. P
approval, a merchandiser can easily goes to production.
8. Cutting the fabric:
When the comments are received from the buyer, a woven garments
merchandiser should cut the fabrics for required quantity by following
buyer’s comments.
9. Print and embroidery:
After cutting the fabric, the required cutting pieces should send to print and
embroidery section with buyer’s comments about the print and embroidery
and completed it with urgent basis.
10. Sewing:
After completing the print and embroidery process, all the cutting pieces
should be input in sewing section with buyer’s comments about the sewing.
11. Complete the washing process:
After completing the sewing process, a woven garments merchandiser
should send all the garments to the washing plant and follow-up it with
buyer’s instruction.
12. Finishing and QC check:
When the washing procedure will complete then merchandiser must be
hand over all the garments to the finishing section. After finishing, all the
garments sent to the QC (Quality Controller) department.

DIPON BUFT
13. Shipment:
When the QC department approved the quality then these are sent to the
buyer by sea or air.
Garments Merchandiser:
In garments trade, a merchandiser has to face various kinds of problem till
the delivery his/her order. There is no merchandiser, who can say that,
he/she has not faces any problem up to delivery. Problem solving is one of
the parts of merchandising but if a merchandiser should follow the below
working procedure accurately then 90% problem will be solved.
Working procedures of a knit merchandiser:

The main working procedures of a merchandiser are discussed in the
below:
A merchandiser must have to maintain his order by the following two ways
if he/ she want to deliver his order in timely. The first and most important
matter is “Fabrics follow up” and the second one is “Order execution”.
Fabric follow up
Now I will discuss about the very first important thing named “Fabric follow
up”. Fabric follow up contains the following issues:
1. Yarn booking and requisition,

2. Fabric booking,
3. Lab dip develop,
4. Local accessories booking,
5. Knitting follow up,
6. Lab dip approval,
7. Fabrics dyeing follow up and in-house.
All the main seven key factors for the “fabric follow-up” are discussed
in the below:
1. Yarn booking and requisition:
When the buyer forward his sample with all the details instruction, in that
time a merchandiser should be done yarn booking and requisition by
following the buyer’s instruction about the fabric GSM.
2. Fabric booking:
After completing the yarn booking and requisition, a merchandiser should
take necessary steps about the fabric booking. He / she has to do accurate

DIPON BUFT
fabric booking by following the order specification such as-Order quantity,
types of fabric (Cotton single jersey, Stretch piquet etc), types of color for
each fabric (Blue, Black, Red etc).
3. Lab dip development:
The third and very important one is lab dip development. A merchandiser
should confirm the dyeing factory for developing the lab dip with urgent
basis. Here it must be noted that less time required for the lab-dip easier to
complete the rest of the process.
4. Local accessories booking:
After completing all the above three steps, a merchandiser should confirm
the local accessories booking such as-sewing thread, Button, Rivet, Twill
tape etc. and in-house these before completing fabric dyeing.
5. Knitting follow up:
In the mean time, a merchandiser should be followed the knitting procedure
and completed the all types of fabrics knitting before approving lab dip by
the buyer.
6. Lab dip approval:
After developing the lab dip it should be sent to the buyer for its approval.
7. Fabric dyeing follow up and in-house:
After approving the lab dip by the buyer, a merchandiser should send the
approved lab dip to the dyeing factory and follow up the dyeing procedure.
After completing the dyeing procedure, all the fabrics should be in-housed
in timely.
Order execution
The second and final important matter to send the shipment in timely is
“Order execution”
Order execution contains the following features:

1. Pattern making,
2. Print and embroidery development,
3. Fit sample making,
4. Comments,
5. Cutting the fabric,
6. Print and embroidery,
7. Sewing,
8. Finishing and QC check,
9. Shipment.
The above all nine features are discussed in the below:
1. Pattern making:
After receiving all the details from the buyer, a merchandiser should pass

DIPON BUFT
urgently the entire reference sample with buyer’s details instruction to the
pattern section for making pattern.
2. Print and embroidery development:
If there are any print and embroidery, then it should be developed with
urgent basis by maintaining buyer’s instruction.
3. Fit sample making:
In the mean time, a merchandiser should make the fit sample by
maintaining buyer’s instruction. Here one thing should be noted that, in fit
sample, the using fabric may b varies than buyer nominated fabric, color
may be varies than buyer nominated color, but measurement must be
accurate as buyers providing measurement sheet.
4. Comments:
After making the fit sample it should send to the buyer for their comments.
When the buyer makes comment on fit sample, it must be noted and
following their comments for next steps.
5. Cutting the fabric:
When the comments are received from the buyer, a development
merchandiser should cut the fabrics for required quantity by following
buyer’s comments.
6. Print and embroidery:
After cutting the fabric, the required cutting pieces should send to print and
embroidery section with buyer’s comments about the print and embroidery
and completed it with urgent basis.
7. Sewing:
After completing the print and embroidery process, all the cutting pieces
should be input in sewing section with buyer’s comments about the sewing.
8. Finishing and QC check:
When the sewing process will complete then all the garments are sent to
the finishing section. After finishing, all the garments sent to the QC
(Quality Controller) department.
9. Shipment:
When the QC department approved the quality then these are sent to the
buyer by sea or air.
Garments Order Execution Process:

During executing of a garment order, the following processes should be
maintained by a garments merchandiser:
1. Order enquiry from buyer to factory,

DIPON BUFT
2. Approval of order from the buyer ,
3. Buyer bank given master L/C to the buying house,
4. Back to back (B/B) L/C is given to the suppliers,
5. Fit sample sent to the buyer for the fit approval,
6. Pre-production (P.P) sample submitted to the buyer,
7. Fabrics and accessories should be in-housed according to T/A plan,
8. Pilot production should be started according to T/A plan,
9. Online inspection by the buyers Q.C ,
10. Bulk production should be started according to T/A plan,
11. Commercial department prepares the shipping documents,
12. Final inspection according to T/A plan,
13. Goods sent to port (Sea port or air port),
14. Goods handed over to the shipping line.
All the above processes are discussed in the below:
1. Order enquiry from buyer to factory:
Here, a merchandiser must make a meeting with production manager for
shipping date planning, Enquiry on price (Sometimes target price given by
the buyer), enquiry on shipping date (Sometimes target shipping date
giving by the buyer).
2. Approval of order from the buyer:
In this process, a merchandiser has to take approval of order as per the
costing given by him/her, also make time and action (T/A) plan containing
the details of the action be taken according to fixed shipping date, in order
to execute the shipping date committed with the buyer.
3. Buyer bank given master L/C to the Buying house:
Master L/C is the contract, given to bank, which covers the total value of an
export order. Commercial department of buying house deals with the follow
up of L/C matter.
4. Back to back (B/B) L/C is given to the suppliers:
Here, commercial department of buying house deals with the open up of
B/B, L/C and merchandiser deals with the follow up of materials on time.
5. Fit sample sent to the buyer for the fit approval:
In this process, merchandiser has to co-ordinate with sample section for
making fit sample. After receiving it from the sample section, it should be
sent to the buyer for the approval of fit and measurement.
6. Pre-production (P.P) sample submitted to the buyer:
Here, pre-production (P.P) sample should make from production line by
using original fabric and accessories and submitted to the buyer for P.P
approval.

DIPON BUFT
7. Fabrics and accessories should be in-housed according to T/A
plan:
In this process, a merchandiser has to monitor inventory department
strongly so that there’s no problem can create during in-housing right
quality and right quantity of fabrics and accessories in timely. If there’s any
wrong then merchandisers have to take correct decision to solve it.
8. Pilot production should be started according to T/A plan:
Pilot production means initial production, consists of 100 to 200pcs. Here,
production manager and quality team should check very carefully the every
style garments according to the buyers specification.
9. Online inspection by the buyers Q.C:
Here, buyer’s Q.C team inspect the garments and gives suggestion where
the quality defects are and how to improve on that.
10. Bulk production should be start according to T/A plan:
In this process, bulk production should be start and complete it according to
time and action plan. Here, buyer’s QC, monitor on the production line. So,
production manager should take extra care to make the garments correctly
by maintaining buyer’s specification.
11. Commercial department prepares the shipping documents:
In the mean time, commercial department should prepare the necessary
shipping documents such as booking vessels by contacting with shipping
line (in case of sea shipment).
12. Final inspection according to T/A plan:
In final inspection, buyer’s Q.C has done random inspection before
shipping date. If buyer’s Q, C confirmed the right quality certification then
only can ship out the goods.
13. Goods sent to port (Sea port or air port):
Goods should send to the sea port or air port according to buyer’s
specification.
14. Goods handed over to the shipping line:
Goods handed over to the shipping line (in case of sea freight) is a very
important process, if it’s not possible to handed over the goods to the
shipping line in right time according to the master L/C then the buyer can
cancel the goods or ask for air freight. So, goods should be handed over
in timely.

DIPON BUFT
Introduction:
Sewing operators grading is very effective to achieve maximum output
from a sewing line. It also works as employee motivator. Normally it’s seen
that, when a sewing operator is upgraded into the front step then he get
motivated and give more effort for the next step. Day by day, all the
largest garments manufacturing groups have started a tradition of fixing
salary of sewing operators according to their grading.
Grading System of Sewing Machine Operators Followed in Apparel
Industry:
Normally sewing machine operator’s wage has to pay according to
category of operator. There are different types of categories such as
skilled, semi skilled, unskilled and A, B, C which is done according to their
experience. Without these, garments manufacturing factories followed
some systems or methods in doing sewing operators grading which are
1. Grading according to types of operation,
2. Grading according to sewing operators capability in various
operations.
All the above methods have discussed in the following:
1. Grading according to types of operation:
A, B and C grade sewing operator is selected in this grading systems,
where A, B and C grade sewing operator is perfect for completing A, B and
C grade operations respectively. This type of grading is done according to
the below points. Such as-
 Critical and non-critical operations,

 Skill level required to perform an operation,
 Machine using capacity such as flat lock machine and single needle
lock stitch,
 Operations in the various parts of garments.
Now, one example will help you to better understand of the above
discussion. A list of shirt manufacturing processes have shown in the
below table according to A, B and C grade operations.
A grade operations B grade operations C grade operations
Close collar Join shoulder Locking operations

DIPON BUFT
Close cuff Hem front placket Run stitch collar
Attach front pocket Attach side seam Run stitch neck band
Set sleeve placket Sleeve attach Sew pleats
Match and set cuff Attaching main label Gathering
Attach neck band Attach yoke Closing flap at bottom
Attach front placket Hem bottom Hem cuff
2. Grading according to sewing operators capability in various

operations:
It’s another sewing operator grading system followed in readymade
garments sector. Here, sewing operators are categorized according to the
number of operations performed by a sewing operator from the A, B and C
grade operations. It also shows the efficiency level of a sewing operator.
Grading table has presented in the below:
SL
No. Grade Criteria
 All A grade operations,

 At least 5 B grade operations,
01 A+  All C grade operations,
 Efficiency stands at 56%
 Above 5 A grade operations,

02 A  At least 5 B grade operations,
 All C grade operations,

DIPON BUFT
 At least 2-3 A grade operations,

 At least 4-5 B grade operations,
03 B  All C grade operations,

04 C  At least 4 C grade operations,
05 D  Trainee,
 Any B or C grade operations.
Advantage of Semi-Automatic Spreading Method:

Various advantages of semi-automatic fabric spread method has
1. The maximum fabric width which can be handled is normally 2m
although extra wide machines are capable of handling up to 3m.
2. Auto ply cutting device here.
3. Auto plies counting arrangements.
4. Auto catcher to hold the ends of the ply.
5. Auto fabric tensioning device.
6. Auto fabric leveling device,
7. Photo electric guide for selvedge alignment.
Fabric fault detector.
8. A platform is provided on which operator stands.
9. Maximum weight of the fabric roll can be 80kg to 675kg.
10. Maximum height of spread is 25cm.
11. Maximum spread speed 100m/min.
12. It has also rolled turning arrangement.
13. Auto loading and unloading device.
14. It is very useful.
Disadvantage of Semi-Automatic Spreading Method:
Different disadvantages of semi-automatic fabric spreading method have
pointed out in the following:
1. More time is required here.
2. It has needed higher labor cost.

DIPON BUFT
3. It cannot be possible to make desired fabric spreading technique by
using this method.
4. There is no sensor in the spreading head.
5. Any kinds of fabric cannot be spread here.
Flow Chart of Knit Fabric Inspection in Garments Industry:

Fabric receiving
↓
Manual fabric inspection
↓
GSM checking
↓
Shade checking
↓
Confirmation of fabric quality
All the above processes have explained in the below table:
SL No. Process Procedure
Fabric inspector receives the total quantity of knit

01 Fabric receiving fabrics here.
Here, fabric inspector inspects the fabrics manually that

means his main duty here is to find out various types of
02 Manual fabric inspection holes and other fabric faults which are visible in the fabric.
Fabric GSM has to check here by maintaining buyer’s

03 GSM checking instruction using GSM cutter.
Fabric shade has to check here by following buyers

04 Shade checking approved shade.
After completing all the above inspections, quality

inspector confirms here the actual quality report of
05 Confirmation of fabric quality knitted fabrics.

DIPON BUFT
Various key points which should be considered before marker making are
pointed out in the below:
1. During marker making it should be followed that fabric width must be

higher than marker width (At least ½ inch).
2. Fabric length must be higher than marker length (At least one inch).
3. Marker width should be taken according to the fabric width and fabric
spreading must be done by taking the guideline from the marker
length.
4. When garments pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, in
that time the grain line must be parallel to the line of warp in
a woven fabric and Wales in knitted fabric. It should be noted here
that, when pattern pieces are laid down across the layers, then the
line is kept parallel to the weft for woven fabric and course
in knit fabric.
5. All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same
direction when laid down on an asymmetric fabric.
6. During marker making, length of fabric cutting table should be
considered.
7. Plan for garments production should also be considered during
marker making.
8. During marker making, marker should be started with the large pattern
pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of larger pieces. In this
way, fabric wastage is minimized and marker efficiency is also
increased.
9. In the last step of marker making, all the patterns are shuffled in
various directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to
increase the marker efficiency.
Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:
Pattern received from pattern department
↓
Cutting ratio received from merchandiser
↓
Marker making
↓
Fabric received from the store

DIPON BUFT
↓
Fabric Checking
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Marker placing on to the lay
↓
Cutting the fabric
↓
Numbering
↓
Checking
↓
Sorting and Bundling
↓
Send to the sewing department
Each process of garments cutting flow chart is discussed shortly in
the below table:
S/L Process Job

Pattern received from pattern At first you have to received different sizes pattern for each
01 department style garments from the pattern department.
Garments cutting ratio Cutting ratio for each style garments should be received from
02 received from merchandiser merchandiser
To complete cutting process in easy way, you have to make
03 Marker making marker for each style garments.
At the mean time, you have to received fabrics from the store
04 Fabric received from the store for each style of garments.
Here, fabrics have to checked and confirm the shade variation
05 Fabric Checking free fabrics in cutting table.
When the above process is completed, then you have to
06 Fabric Spreading spread the fabric with correct lay height and ply tension.
07 Marker placing on to the lay After that, marker have to placed on the top layer of the lay.
08 Cutting the fabric Here, fabrics have to cut by maintaining marker.
After cutting the fabrics, each parts of different style fabrics
should be numbered to avoid mixing with the others style
09 Numbering fabric parts.

DIPON BUFT
Checking the cutting fabrics accurately by comparing with its
10 Checking marker.
Cutting parts should be sorting and bundling here to send easy
11 Sorting and Bundling into the next process.
Cutting fabric parts have to sent into next process (where
12 Send to the next process. required) like printing, Embroidery, sewing etc.
Sewing Defects:
1. Needle damage: for example, thread drawn-off from the fabric or
making of large hole to the fabrics.
2. Skipped stitch.
3. Thread drawn-off.
4. Seam puckering.
5. Wrong stitch density.
6. Uneven stitch.
7. Staggered stitch.
8. Defected stitch.
9. Oil spot or stain.
Seaming Defects:
1. Uneven width.
2. Uneven seam line.
3. Not secured by back stitch.
4. Twisting.
5. No matching of check or stripe.
6. No matching of seam.
7. Unexpected materials are attached with the sewing.
8. Not sewn by matching face side or back side of fabrics.
9. Use of wrong stitch type.
10. Wrong shade matching of sewing thread.
Assembly Defects:
1. Defected finished components by size i.e. imperfect size and shape of
finished components.
2. Imperfect garments size.
3. Use of wrong ticket.
4. Missing of any parts or predetermined design of garments.
5. Imperfect alignment of components i.e. button, hook, and so on) in
proper place.
6. Wrong placing or creasing of interlining.
7. Looseness or tightness of interlining.
8. Folding of any parts of garments that is seen to bad appearance.

DIPON BUFT
9. Shade variation of garments.
10. False direction of fabric parts in the garments.
11. Imperfect matching of trimmings in the garments.
Various types of sewing thread which are vastly used in garments
manufacturing has mentioned in the below:
1. Linen thread,
2. Silk thread,
3. Soft cotton thread,
4. Mercerized cotton thread,
5. Glaced cotton thread,
6. Viscose thread,
7. Polyester thread,
8. Nylon thread,
9. Aramide thread,
10. PEFE thread.
List of Sewing Machine Used in Garment Industry:
1. Double chain stitch machine (four needle short……),
2. Double chain stitch machine (four needle elastic inserting machine),
3. Double chain stitch m/c (double needle with reverse feed),
4. Fed of the arm (Double chain stitch m/c with three needles),
5. Interlock machine (twine needle, 5- thread over lock machine),
6. Lock stitch machine (single needle with variable top feed with
automatic thread trimmer),
7. Lock stitch m/c (single needle with automatic thread trimmer),
8. Lock stitch m/c (single needle sewing machine),
9. Lock stitch machine (two needle with split needle bar sewing),
10. Lock stitch m/c (twin needle feed),
11. Lock stitch sewing m/c (one needle with vertical trimmer wiper and
reverse feed),
12. Lap seaming m/c (for back tape attaching),
13. Linking machine,
14. Over lock machine (twine needle four threaded machine),
15. Over lock machine (one needle, 3-thread),
16. Zigzag sewing machine (one needle),
17. Top and bottom cover stitch flat bed machine (three needle),
18. Three needle covering machine, five thread flat bed top and bottom
covering m/c,
19. Button hole m/c (for woven fabric),
20. Button sewing machine,
21. Bar tack m/c with automatic thread trimmer,

DIPON BUFT
22. Button hole sewing m/c (for knitted fabric),
23. Button covering stitch belt loop making m/c (kansai m/c),
24. Bias tape cutting machine,
25. Label sewing machine.
Needle Size
Fabric Type Singer System Metric (Nm)
Light 7 55
Medium 9 65
Heavy 10 75
Light 9 65
Medium 10 70
Heavy 11 75
Light 11 75
Medium 12 80
Heavy 14 90
Light 14 90
Medium 16 100
Heavy 18 110
Light 16 100
Medium 18 110
Heavy 19 120 Relationship
Light 19 120 Between Thread
Medium 21 130 Size, Needle
Heavy 22 140 Size and
Light 21 130 Materials:
Medium 22 140 The below table
Heavy 23 160 shows the
Light 23 160 relationship
Medium 24 180 between thread
size, needle size
Heavy 25 200
and material
which is too much necessary to know the accurate sewing.

DIPON BUFT
Difference between Denim and Jeans:
SL No. Denim Jeans
Denim is one kinds of fabric name which can be Jeans is one type of garment which is made by using
01 made from 100% cotton twill or Stretch twill. denim fabric.
Denim is a fashionable fabric, by which different
02 types of garments style can be produced. Jeans is only a particular style of garments.
Denim can be defined either jackets, skirts, pants,
03 shorts etc. Jeans is specially defined at denim pants.
Denim is used not only for making pants but also for Jeans is such type of garments which is made only
04 jackets, skirts, shorts etc. from denim fabric.
05 All denims are not jeans. All jeans are denim.
Properties of Denim Fabric:

Denim fabric follows some properties; those are mentioned in the following:
1. Denim fabric creases easily.

2. It is very strong and durable.
3. It is feeling hard during wearing.
4. It is used for long time wearing.
5. It resists tears and snags.
Types of Denim Fabric:
There are mainly eight types of denim fabric, those ares-
1. Colored denim,
2. Bubble gum denim,
3. Denim from fox fiber,
4. Crushed denim,
5. Vintage denim,

DIPON BUFT
6. Ecru denim,
7. Marble denim,
8. Reverse denim.
Fusible interning is classified into six types. Those are-
1. PVC coated interlining,

2. PVA coated interlining,
3. Polyethylene coated interlining,
4. Polyester coated interlining,
5. Poly amide coated interlining,
6. Poly propylene coated interlining.
Trimmings:
Without fabrics, the materials which are used in a garment during the
making of apparel are called trimmings. A trimming can also be a narrow
fabric used as decorative or functional edging on apparelor furnishing
fabrics. Some trimmings can be seen from the outside of garments which
are used outside the garments and some are not seen which are used
inside the garments.
Accessories:
Accessories are those materials which are not attached with the apparel. It
can be explained in other way, accessories are those materials which are
not used during manufacturing the garments, only used for finishing and
packing the garments.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Shirt:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Button,
3. Lining,
4. Interlining,
5. Motif,
6. Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label and
composition label.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Trouser or Pant:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Lining,
3. Button,
4. Zipper,

DIPON BUFT
composition label.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Jacket:
1. Button,
2. Sewing thread,
3. Lining,
4. Motif,
5. Zipper,
composition label.
List of Accessories Required for Making Shirt, Pant and Jacket:
1. Neck board,
2. Back board,
3. Plastic collar insert,
4. Hang tag,
5. Ball head pin,
6. Tissue paper,
7. Poly bag,
8. Silica gee bag,
9. Carton,
10. Carton sticker,
11. Safety sticker,
12. String,
13. Hanger,
14. Butterfly,
15. Collar stay,
16. Price ticket,
17. Gum tape,
18. Bruss pin,
19. Tag pin,
20. Safety pin,
21. Buckle,
22. Size strip,
23. Pocket flasher,
24. Both side tape,
25. Plastic clip.

DIPON BUFT
\types of Embroidery Ued in Garments:
Different types of embroidery used on garments are mentioned in the
below:
1. Whitework embroidery,
2. Candlewick embroidery,
3. Cross stitch embroidery,
4. Pulled thread embroidery,
5. Hedebo embroidery,
6. Drawn thread embroidery,
7. Hardanger embroidery,
8. Crewel embroidery,
9. Surface embroidery,
10. Goldwork embroidery,
11. Redwork embroidery,
12. Blackwork embroidery,
13. Bluework embroidery,
14. Sashiko embroidery.
Difference Between Product Control and Process Control:
SL No. Process Control Product Control

Proper utilization of raw materials and Proper utilization of auxiliaries and raw
01 auxiliaries has done here. materials and hasn’t done here.
Process control is producer and
02 manufacturer oriented. It is consumer oriented.
By process control we can analyze the
process study, time study, costing and way It does not provide any information’s about
03 of cost minimization. process time and production time.
04 Process control is independent. It is dependent.
In process control, it is possible to take

necessary action for the correction After production it is not possible to take
05 during production processes. recovery the defects or faults.

DIPON BUFT
The end product of process should full fill to achieve the desired quality
product.
1. In case of spinning process → Yarn: count, twist.

2. In case of weaving process → Fabric: EPI, PPI, shrinkage.
3. In case of dyeing process → Color matching, various fastness
properties.
4. In case of finishing process → Finished fabrics, softness.
The faults or defects which are found during inspection are mainly
classified into four categories:
1. Critical: Must be 100% accurate. There is no range.
2. Major: Normally 2.5%
3. Minor: Normally 4%
4. Slight: Normally 6.5%
Measurements and Tolerance of Gents Long Sleeve Shirt:
Size 14 ½ 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½ 17 17 ½ 18
Collar (±1/4) 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½ 17 17 ½ 18 18 ½
½ Chest (±1/2) 20 ½ 21 21 21 ½ 21 ½ 22 22 23
Back length (±1) 31 31 31 32 32 33 33 33

Centre back sleeve
length (±1/4) 34 34 1/2 35 35 ½ 36 36 ½ 36 ½ 36 ½
½ Arm hole (±1/2) 9½ 10 10 11 11 11 ½ 11 ½ 12
Cuff length (±1/4) 9 9 9 9½ 9½ 10 10 10 ½

DIPON BUFT
Major Defects Found in Woven Fabric:
Various types of faults found in woven fabric has mentioned in the below:
1. Bad selvedge,
2. Broken ends or warp,
3. Broken picks or weft,
4. Loose warp,
5. Loose weft or snarl,
6. Double end,
7. Tight end,
8. Float of warp,
9. Wrong end color,
10. Miss pick,
11. Double pick,
12. Weft bar,
13. Ball,
14. Hole,
15. Oil spot,
16. Tails out,
17. Temple mark,
18. Reed mark,
19. Slub,
20. Thick and thin place.
21.
22. Comparison Between Quality Assurance (Q.A) and Quality
Control (Q.C):
SL No. Quality Assurance (Q.A) Quality Control (Q.C)

It is a set of activities for ensuring right
quality in
It is a set of activities for ensuring the products. These activities targets on
productquality in the processes by which identifying various defects in the actual
01 products are developed. products produced.
02 It is a proactive quality process. It is a reactive process.
The main object of Q.A is to prevent various
defects with a regular focus on the process The main object of Q.C is to identify various
03 used to make the product. defects in the finished garmentproducts.
04 It comes under the category of verification. It comes under the category of validation.
05 It is totally considered as the process It is totally considered as the product

DIPON BUFT
oriented exercise. oriented exercise.
Quality assurance is done before Quality control is done after
06 quality control. completing quality assurance activities.
It confirms that you are doing the right It confirms that you are producing the
07 things in the right way. required quality products.
It is not considered as a time consuming It is always considered as time
08 activity. consuming activity.
Each person in the team involved in It is usually the responsibility of
developing the product is responsible specific team that tests the products for
09 for quality assurance. identifying the defects in there.
10 It is the duty of the complete team. It is only the duty of a testing team.
Faults seen during knitting the fabric:

1. Yarn dust,
2. Set-up,
3. Loop mark,
4. Needle break,
5. Oil spot,
6. Thick and thin place,
7. Mix yarn or Lot mix,
8. Hole,
9. Lycra out,
10. Yarn contamination,
11. Yarn missing,
12. Tara fault (Star).
Faults seen during dyeing the knit fabric:

1. Uneven dyeing,
2. Dye spots,
3. Pilling,
4. Soda spot.
Faults seen during finishing the knit dyeing fabric:
1. Skew,
2. Slitting fault,
3. Uneven brushing,
4. Crease mark,
5. Unwanted mark,
6. Oil mark,

DIPON BUFT
7. Silicon spot,
8. Line mark,
9. Burning effect,
10. Chemical spot,
11. Sewding fault.
What is BOM?
BOM stands for bill of material. It is actually a list of raw materials which are
needed to be sourced for making the garments. It should be prepared and
sourced the materials before starting the garments production. Before
preparing bill of material, garment merchandiser should be aware about the
shipping date of the garment.
In readymade apparel industry, BOM is normally prepared by
factory merchandiser or production merchandiser. After that, it is approved by
responsible person from the factory owner and handed over to the purchase
department to purchase and in-house the required raw materials in timely.
BOM Information:
Bill of material contains the below information’s:
1. Details description of raw materials,

2. Consumption of raw materials per each garment,
3. The person name, who is responsible for sourcing,
4. Supplier name,
5. Projected cost per each item,
6. Product quality,
7. Product specification,
8. Product color name or color code,
9. Raw material price,
10. Sourcing date,
11. Cuttable Width,
12. Total cost of raw material,
13. Product code (It is often called a style no. for fabric or input),
14. Size (buttons) or length (zippers).
BOM Preparation Method in Garment Industry:
After confirmation of a garment export order, production merchandiser or
factory merchandiser receives the details information of the product (product
quantity, color, size, style etc.) from the buying merchandiser. Then he prepare
bill of material sheet by maintaining a specific format which normally followed
in ready-made garment sector. Here, one thing should be noted here that,
production merchandiser or factory merchandiser should provide bill of materials
to the purchase department to source raw materials according to the style of
garments. Otherwise they may mix-up all.

DIPON BUFT
What is Pattern in Apparel Industry?
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for
a style of apparel or clothing. Pattern is one of the most important parts of
apparel industry. In the past I have presented two important articles related with
pattern which will be very useful for you.
Types of Pattern Used in Clothing Sector:
There are mainly two types of patterns used in readymade apparel
sector which mentioned in the below:
1. Basic block or block pattern,
2. Working pattern or apparel pattern.
All the above two patterns have discussed in the following:
1. Basic block or block pattern:
Basic block or block pattern is an individual component of apparel without any
design or style. It can be made into two ways such as modeling and flat method.
a. Modeling:Modeling is a primary and first method. Still it is widely used in

apparel industry. In modeling method, block is made with standard body
measurement of dummy which is known as toile. Toile is worn on the body of
dummy to check fittings. After that, toile is worn out from the body of dummy and
individual parts of toile are drawn on board paper or hard paper. This method is
most efficient but needs more time.
b. Flat method:In case of flat method, the pattern of different parts of apparel
especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing. Actually, this method
comes from modeling method and by this method fast pattern making is possible.
2. Working pattern or apparel pattern:

Apparel pattern is made on the basis of basic block or block pattern. Individual
block pattern are drawn on board paper or hard paper. Different types of
allowances i.e. trimmings allowance, sewing allowance, bottom line, center
front line, pleat, drat is considered in this type of pattern.
Textile Interview Questions and Answers:
The major textile interview questions and answers have presented in the below:
1. What is load?
The application of a load to a specimen in its axial direction causes a tension to
be developed in the specimen. The load is usually expressed in gm-wt or
pounds.
2. What is mass stress?

The ratio of the force applied to the linear density is termed as mass stress.

DIPON BUFT
3. What is strain?
The ratio of elongation to initial length of a specimen is termed as strain.
4. What is elastic recovery?

The ratio of elastic extension to the total extension of a specimen is termed as
elastic recovery.
5. What is specific flexural rigidity?

The ratio of the flexural rigidity to the linear density is known as flexural rigidity.
6. What is shape factor?

The quantity which determines the shape of material is known as shape factor. If
shape factor is 1 then fiber will be completely found.
7. What are torsional properties?

The behavior shown by the materials when it is subjected to a torsional force is
known its torsional properties.
8. What is bending recovery?

Recovery from a given curvature is known as bending recovery.
9. What is bending modulus?

The ratio of bending stress and bending strain is known as bending modulus.
10. What are frictional properties?

The property shown by the fiber due to the friction when processing is termed as
frictional properties.
11. What is swelling?

Swelling may be expressed in terms of the increase of diameter, area, length or
volume of a fibre due to absorbing water.
12. What is refractive index?

The ratio of sine of angle of incidence to sine of angle of refraction is known as
refractive index.
13. What is torsional rigidity?

The ratio of torque unit twist per unit length is known as torsional rigidity.

DIPON BUFT
14. What is glass transition temperature?
The temperature at which the fiber behaves as a glass and brittle condition is
known as glass transition temperature. It is denoted by Tg. The range of Tg for
linear polymer is 100°C to 300°C.
15. What is thermal conductivity?

It is the rate of transfer of heat along a body by conduction. The higher value of
thermal conductivity, the fiber will then more conductive.
16. What is melting temperature?

The range of temperature at which the fiber melts is known as melting
temperature. It is denoted by Tm.
17. What is pressleys index?

The ratio of breaking load in pound of a fiber to the weight of fiber in mgm is
termed as pressleys index (P.I).
18. What is textile testing?

The process of determining the characteristics of textile products is known
as textile testing.
19. What is sampling?
The process by which a sample is collected from a large number of materials is
termed as sampling.
20. What is relative humidity?

The ratio of the actual vapor pressure to the standard vapor pressure at the
same temperature express as a percentage is known as relative humidity.
21. What is standard temperature?

An atmosphere at the prevailing barometric pressure with a relative humidity of
65% and temperature of 20°C (68°F) is known as standard temperature.
22. What is quality control?

The checking verification and regulation of the degree of excellence of an
attribute or property of material is known as quality control.
23. What is testing temperature?
The atmosphere with a relative humidity of (65% ± 2%) and temperature of (20°C
± 2°C) or (68°F ± 4°F) is known as testing temperature.
24. What is pitch?
Tip to tip of teeth distance is known as pitch.

DIPON BUFT
25. What is souring?The treatment by which the fabric after processing with
scouring is stated with dilute sulphuric acid for removing alkali is known as
souring.
What is Technical Textiles?
Technical textiles are approximately 21% of all textiles. The main markets of
technical textiles are traditional fabrics such as
1. Canvas, fents etc. (23%),

2. Automotive and transportation (23%),
3. Leisure (12%),
4. Medical textiles (10%),
5. Geotextiles (10%), and
6. Protective apparel (2%).
Two thirds of automotive materials goes into interior trim, for seat covers, roof
and door liners and carpets where woven fabrics still dominate the other uses
include types, air bags and filters.
Although non-woven and woven fabrics account for the majority of technical
textiles, warp knitted and to lesser extent, weft knitted structures has captured
some special end use markets. These are particulars where lerfain properties
such as drapability , open work, knitting to shape, mouldability, extensibility,
lightness of weight, strength and cost are at a premium and can be tailored for
requirements.
Application of Technical Textiles:
There are some important applications of technical textile which have pointed out
in the below:1. Geotextiles:These are polymer fabrics used in the construction of
harbor works, road drains and break waters and for land reclamation and many
other civil engineering purposes. The geo-textiles market requires bulk quantities
of material.2. Tarpaulins coverings:Air inflated structures, farpanulines,
temperature resistant sails, root coverings, back bit advertising signs.
3. Industrial textiles:
Filter fabrics, adhesrttapses and conveyor belts. 5. Medical textiles:
Gauge, plasters, artificial arteries, tapes, bandages, classier net bandages,
dialysis filters, blankets and covers.
4. Safely textiles:
Heat and flame resistant protective clothing for civil and military purposes,
inflatable life rafts, fluorescent safely clothing, and bullet proof bests, sun
protection blinds, helmets, radiation protection, oil trap mats and parachutes.

DIPON BUFT
6. Composites:
Composites are products which are formed by combining two or more discrete
physical phases usually a solid matrix and a fibrous reinforcing material.
7. Nets:
Fabrics for construction, agriculture, weather and pest protection, for safety,
blinds, fences, fish nets, and storage nets.
8. Active sportswear:
Clothing and equipment.
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machines Used in Apparel Manufacturing:

Fabric cutting machines which are vastly used in apparel manufacturing industry have
pointed out in the below:
1. Straight knife cutting m/c,
2. Band knife cutting m/c,
3. Round knife cutting m/c,
4. Die cutting m/c,
5. Notcher cutting m/c,
6. Drill cutting m/c,
7. Computer controlled knife cutting m/c,
8. Laser beam cutting m/c,
9. Water Jet cutting m/c,
10. Plasma torch cutting m/c.
List of Trimmings, Accessories Needed for Making Shirt, Pant:
Trimmings:
Without fabrics, the materials which are used in a garment during the making of
apparel are called trimmings. A trimming can also be a narrow fabric used as decorative
or functional edging on apparelor furnishing fabrics. Some trimmings can be seen from
the outside of garments which are used outside the garments and some are not seen
which are used inside the garments.
Accessories:
Accessories are those materials which are not attached with the apparel. It can be
explained in other way, accessories are those materials which are not used during
manufacturing the garments, only used for finishing and packing the garments.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Shirt:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Button,
3. Lining,
4. Interlining,
5. Motif,

DIPON BUFT
6. Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label and composition label.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Trouser or Pant:
1. Sewing thread,
2. Lining,
3. Button,
4. Zipper,
List of Trimmings Required for Making Jacket:
1. Button,
2. Sewing thread,
3. Lining,
4. Motif,
5. Zipper,
List of Accessories Required for Making Shirt, Pant and Jacket:
1. Neck board,
2. Back board,
3. Plastic collar insert,
4. Hang tag,
5. Ball head pin,
6. Tissue paper,
7. Poly bag,
8. Silica gee bag,
9. Carton,
10. Carton sticker,
11. Safety sticker,
12. String,
13. Hanger,
14. Butterfly,
15. Collar stay,
16. Price ticket,
17. Gum tape,
18. Bruss pin,
19. Tag pin,
20. Safety pin,
21. Buckle,
22. Size strip,
23. Pocket flasher,
24. Both side tape,
25. Plastic clip.
Types of Thread Package Used in Apparel Industry
Introduction:
Thread package is important equipment in apparel
manufacturing industry. Sewing threads are wound at parallel or cross at different
types of thread packages. As its importance, this article has presented a brief
discussion on thread package with their correct images.

DIPON BUFT
Different Types of Thread Package Used in Garment Industry:
Various types of thread packages are pointed out the below-
1. Spool,
2. Cop,
3. Cone,
4. Vicone,
5. Container,
6. Cocoon,
7. Pre wound bobbin.
All the above thread package types have discussed in the following:
1. Spool:
Spool is a small thread package which is made by wood or plastic with flange at two
ends. Spool thread package contains 100-500meter thread at parallel wound. Spool is
used for leather, shoe or domestic purposes.
2. Cop:
Cop is small cylindrical thread package without any flange. Cop contains 1000-2500
meter thread at cross wound. Cop is used for furnishing the garments where color of
thread changes frequently.
3. Cone:
Cone is a small package which is made on plastic conical tube. It contains more than
500 meter thread at cross wind. Cone thread package is an ideal and most used
package in readymade garments sector.
4. Vicone:This type of thread package is made on parallel and little conical tube with a
lip like flange at one end. It contains 3000 meter thread or yarn at cross wind. Vicone
thread package is mostly used for smooth thread on filament such
as embroidery thread.
5. Container:Container is a large thread package used for filament thread which cannot
be controlled by others general packages.
6. Cocoon:Cocoon is a special thread package which done its job without any support.
It is used in shuttle of special quilting machine.
Roles and Responsibilities of Trims & Accessories Inspector

in Apparel Sector
A trims and accessories inspector must have to follow the below duties and
responsibilities:
1. He conducts inspection of the trims for quality and quantity.

DIPON BUFT
2. He conducts 10% inspection of the goods. In case of discrepancy he will conduct
100% inspection.
3. If any critical defects found will be “ZERO TOLERANCE”, whole lot will be
rejected.
4. He will document the result of inspection and send them to the appropriate
authority for onward submission to the supplier & buyer.
5. Hang tags having barcodes printed on them must be checked properly.
6. The trims have to be affixed on the bin card.
7. All trims have to be checked using buyer approved light source D65, TL84, UV,
CWF, FA, and UL3500.
8. All reject trims must be kept in reject area and disposed of following the buyer
recommended disposal process.
9. After completing Brand labels inspection its must keep in confirm area with lock
and key. Key must be handle store in charge only. If Store In-charge absent then
Managing Director will nominate person can to handle the key.
10. Every inspection record will be noted in register book accordingly. Responsible
for trimmings & accessory inspection is Quality Inspector and in-charge.
Some valuable notes of Tools & Techniques of

Merchandizing:
Yearn count = thickness of yearn
Available Yean Count in Market - 16, 18, 20, 22………30……34………40.
Mostly used yarn = 30 Count and price also given here based on 30 count
Add $0.05USD for every count above 30 and subtract $0.05USD for below 30.
For example: if $6/kgis the price of 30 count. Then price will be like below:
Fabric count Price

36 count $6.15
34 count $6.10
32 count $6.05
30 Count $6
28 count $5.95
26 count $5.90
Knitting price:
Fabric Construction: 100% Cotton
Type of fabric Price/Kg
Single Jersey 12 Taka/Kg
1 X 1 Rib 16 Taka/Kg

DIPON BUFT
Pique 16-18 Taka/Kg
Interlock 20 Taka/Kg
Terry 22 Taka/Kg
N:B – If you add Lycra/Spandex/Elastane (or any other material with cotton then
knitting price will be increase at least 25 taka for every types of fabric.
Fabric Construction: 95% Cotton and 5% Lycra/Spandex/Elastane
Type of fabric Price/Kg
Single Jersey 12 +25 = 37 Taka/Kg
Heat setting: Heat are used to fix the Lycra/Spandex/Elastane.
Heat setting is a system for fixed up the elasticity of that fabric. Elasticity fixed up
depends on fabric and use.
Dyeing Price: Dyeing price depends on 4 types of fabric
Types of fabric Types of Dye
100% cotton reactive Dye
100% polyester Disperse dye
CVC 1 part dye -
CVC Both part dye -
Types of Dye Price

90 – 95 Taka/Kg ( Average Color)
Reactive Dye 55 – 65 Taka/Kg ( White Color)
120 Taka/Kg (Black/Dark Color)
Disperse Dye 140 Taka/Kg (All color)
CVC Both part Dye 140 Taka/Kg (All color)
CVC One part Dye 130 Taka/Kg (All color) for polyester/Man
made
CVC One part Dye 90 Taka/Kg ( Average Color) Cotton
N:B- In case of CVC, polyester have to dye first.

Price of Others Activity
Types of Activity Price
Grey Enzyme 10 – 15 Taka/Kg
22 – 25 Taka/ Kg ( 5 Chamber Machine)
Heat Setting
35 – 40 Taka/ Kg ( 7 Chamber Machine)
25 – 30 Taka/ Kg (One Side brush)
Brushing 35 – 40 Taka/ Kg (Both Side brush)
Peaching 15 – 18 Taka/ Kg
Sewing Thread Consumption:

Yean count Quality Use
60/2 5000 mtr/cone usable for shirt

DIPON BUFT
40/2 4000 mtr/cone over lock and knit item
20/3 2000 mtr/cone heavy garment above 07.0Z
50/2 4000 mtr/cone All knit item
20/2 3000 mtr/cone Usable for stitch & bobbin
20/9 5000 mtr/cone Usable for eyelet hole/Button
hole
Quality of the thread:

100% cotton
100% spun polyester
Core spun
Mostly used stitch in garments:
Name of Stich Requirement for 1 inch
Plain Stitch/ Single needle look stitch 7.5 cm for 1 inch
Double needle Lock Stitch 15 cm for 1 inch
Chain stitch 14cm for 1 inch
3 thread over lock 41cm for 1 inch
4 thread over lock 48.5 cm for 1 inch
5thread over lock 55 cm for 1 inch
3 thread flat lock 37 cm for 1 inch
Blind stitch 11cm for 1 inch
ZigZag stitch 19 cm for 1 inch
Bar tack 27 inch for 1 inch
General Consumptionfor sewing thread

Name of the Garments Thread Required/Pcs
Basic T- shirt 140meter/ per pcs
Trouser 370m/pcs
Basic shirt 175m/ pcs
Shorts 300m/pcs
Basic jacket 350m/pcs
Carton Consumption
(L+H)X (W+H) X 2
Total area of a carton: Square Meter.
100 X 100
Price of Cartoon
No of Ply Price
3 Ply $ 0.40/ sq. meter
5 Ply $ 0.70/ sq. meter
7 Ply $ 0.95/ sq.meter
Poly Consumption

DIPON BUFT
Length X Width X Thickness
Types of Poly Price
Polypropylene ( More Transparent) 80 taka/ lbs
Polyethylene (Non Transparent) 75 taka/ lbs
Printing Price:
Print Size depend on following:
Print Size
Number of color
Print quality
Size Quality price
Rubber $ 4.30/Dzn
Plasticol $ 6/ Dzn
pigment $ 2.5/ Dzn
Flock $ 8.5/ Dzn
4 color (12X12) cm high density $ 7.5/ Dzn
puff $ 5/ Dzn
discharge $ 6.5/ Dzn
Transfer $ 10/ Dzn
foil $ 7/ Dzn
Embroidery:
12000/12 thousand stitch= 01 unit.
Per unit price 0.35-0.40 cents (Includinginterlining and thread)
Number of stitch X Garment Qty X thickness (Fabric or Garments)

: +
1000 X 3000 per cone
Wastage
= ……………………………………….. Meter.
Trims
All Labels Price:
Name of label Price
Main Labels $ 0.35/dzn
Size label $ 0.10/dzn
Wash or care label $ 0.8/dzn (paper)
Care label $ 0.20/dzn (sadin)
Origin level $ 0.5/dzn
Flag level $ 0.5/ dzn
Hang tag Price:
Name of Tag Price
Hang tag integrated (Including Price) $ 0.35/dzn
Bar code $ 0.10/dzn

DIPON BUFT
Hang tag (without price) $ 0. 25-0.30 /dzn
Security tag $ 0.8 per pcs
Others Accessories
Name of Accessories Price
Tissue paper = A4 size $ 0.10/dzn
Scotch tap $ 0.20/roll [50 meter in a roll]
Gum tap $ 0.45/roll [48 meter in a roll]
CM Calculation
Exercise – 1
Total Direct and Indirect cost A= 60000
Total Number machine B= 120
Number of working day/ month = 26
A 60000
Average cost per machine T= = = 19.23
B X 26 120 X 26
Number of machine per line, C = 30
Cost per line =C X T = 30 X 19.23 = $ 576.9
Working hour/ day = 08 and Output / hour = 150
Actual output per line per day= X

X= output per hour X total working hour/ Day
CXT 576.9
CM per pcs= = = $ 0.840/pcs
X 150 x 8
Exercise – 2
Total cost= $ 90000
No of the machine – 300
Number of working day / Month =26
Number of machine/ line =25
Working hour/ day = 08
Output / hour = 150
CM =?
A 90000
Average cost per machine per day,T= = = 11.23
B X 26 300 X 26
Cost per line= 11.54 X 25= 288.5
Actual output per line= 150 X 8= 1200 pcs
CXT 288.5
CM= = = $ 0.24/pcs
X 1200

DIPON BUFT
Lab Test
Ser Physical test: Chemical Test
1. Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage/ Elongation Azo
Test)
2. Color fastness to water Formal De hyde
3. Color fastness to Rubbing PH
4. Color fastness to Light Phathalate
5. Spirality/ Twisting
6. Busting Strength (knit) and
7. Tearing Strength (woven)
8. Fiber composition
9. GSM/ Weight Test
L/C Opening sequence
1. Po received from buyer.

 Po Number
 Style Number
 Order quantity
 Time of delivery/ Delivery date
 Incoterm
 Price
2. Issue the PI to buyer

 PI number
 PO number
 Style name
 Garments Quantity
 Shipment date
 Inco term
 Price
 Name of advising/ Beneficiary bank
3. Buyer will request his/ her bank. (LC Opening Bank)

To open a L/C in favor of beneficiary based on OP and PI.
4. L/C opening bank will open a LC mentioning PO and PI number.

DIPON BUFT
CBM calculation
FCL – FULL container load.
LCL – less container load.
GOH – Garments on Hanger.
Container size
20 feet – L X W X H = 228”X 84” X 94” = 29.50 CBM = 28 CBM Usable
40 feet(H) – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 106” = 69.16 CBM = 63 CBM Usable
Volume Metricweight (For Air)
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in CM]
6000
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in inch]
366
Woven top formula :
1
(Body Length+Sleeve Length) X Chest or bottom x 24
2
+ Wastage % = ………
Fabric Width X 36
Yds/Dzn
Body Length = Body Length + Hem Height + Back yoke Length + Allowance
Sleeve Length = Sleeve Length + (Cuff Height X 2) + Allowance
½ Chest/ Bottom = ½ Chest/Bottom + Placket Width + Allowance
Placket = (Upper Placket Lower Part + Lower Placket) ÷ 2
Upper Placket = Lower Part Width + Allowance

Lower Placket = Upper Part width + Lower Part Width + Allowance
N:B Button Placket (Lower Placket) is half of the Button Hole Placket (Upper Placket)
Woven Bottom formula
1
Body Length X Crotch x 48
2
+ Wastage % = …………………… Yds/Dzn
Fabric Width X 36
Body Length = Inseam + Back Rise + Hem Height + (Waist Band X 2) + Allowance

DIPON BUFT
½ Chest/ Bottom=½ Crotch/ Bottom + Allowance
IF Fabric Width is 60” (with Salvage) thenCuttable Fabric width = 59”
Knit Top formula

1
(Body Length+Sleeve Length) X Chest or bottom x 24 x GSM
2
+ Wastage %
1000 X 100 X 100
= ………………….kg/Dzn
Body Length = Body Length + Hem Height + Allowance

Sleeve Length = Sleeve Length + Sleeve Hem Height + Allowance
½ Chest/ Bottom = ½ Chest/Bottom + Allowance
Formula for Neck
Length X Width x 12 x GSM

+ Wastage % = ………………….kg/Dzn
1000 X 100 X 100
Neck Length - Neck Length X 2 + Allowance
Neck Width – Neck Width X 2 + Allowance
Some common Equation :

Who Is Merchandiser?
The person who is doing merchandising is Merchandiser. Now we can say merchandiser
is a person who engages himself/ herself in Sourcing, Costing, Organizing, Arranging
and Promotion sales of any commodities as per required standard. Any person
performing such work with any commodities in any sector is Merchandiser for that
sector.

DIPON BUFT
Hidden Meaning of Merchandiser:
M – Should have good Managerial capacity.

E– Efficient in both English written and spoken.
R– Having high sense of Responsibility.
C– Always keeps Commitment.
H– Leadshonest life. *
A – Attitude should always be positive in resolving any problem.
N– Never does any argue with negative attitude with Buyer & seniors.
D– Fully devoted his service.
I– Always well Informed about his all orders.
S -Sincere in official & daily works.
E– Enthusiastic in nature
R – Regular in E–mail Corresponding.
How to Equip One to Become A Good Knit Merchandiser?
Without understanding the merchandising job and acquiring knowledge on various

fieldand subject related to knit garments a person can't handle any order
efficiently as such he/ she has to equipHimself/ herself with knowledge on the
followings:
Know about all fibers.

❖ Should have knowledge on Spinning
❖ Know all Knitting & Weaving Pattern.
❖ Know all content and construction of fabrics.
❖ Should have workable knowledge on various types of dying process and
construction of fabrics.
❖ Should have knowledge on all types of printing/ embroidery/ washing.
❖ Shouldhave knowledge on all L/C and all payment terms.
❖ Should have knowledge on all yarn counts, machine gauge and corresponding
yield of fabric in respect of weight and fabric pattern.
❖ Should have knowledge on all accessories, their sources & prices.
❖ Should have knowledge on all Lab-Tests.
❖ Should have knowledge on all Sea-Route, Air Route & carrying cost of various
containers.

DIPON BUFT
Description S M L XL
Front Length From HSP 72 74 76 78
1/2 Chest Width 53 55 57 59
1/2 Bottom Width 53 55 57
55 59
57
Hem Height 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
Back Length From HSP 72 74 76 78
Back Cross Width 43.5 44.5 48.5 46.5
Shoulder to Shoulder 46 48 5O 52
Neck Opening 18.5 19.5 20.5 21.5
Neck Drop Front 9 10 11 12
Binding/ Trimming Width 2 2 2 2
Shoulder Width 13.3 14.3 18.3 16.3
Shoulder Drop 4 4 4 4
Neck Drop Back 2 2 2 2
Sleeve Length 23 24 28 26
1/2 Armhole Straight 21.8 22.8 23.8 24.5
1/2 Sleeve Opening 19 19 19 19 1
T – Shirt Consumption
Men’s Short Sleeve Tee, Consider 10% wastage
Fabrication: 100% Cotton, S/J 180 GSM, Collar: 1x1 Rib, 95% Cotton, 5% Lycra, 240 GSM
Knit Top formula

1
(Body Length+Sleeve Length) X Chest or bottom x 24 x GSM
2
+ Wastage % =
1000 X 100 X 100
kg/dzn
Body Length = Body Length + Hem Height + Allowance

Sleeve Length = Sleeve Length + Sleeve Hem Height + Allowance
½ Chest/ Bottom = ½ Chest/Bottom + Allowance
Formula for Neck
Length X Width x 12 x GSM

+ Wastage % = ………………….kg/Dzn
1000 X 100 X 100
Neck Length - Neck Length X 2 + Allowance
Neck Width – Neck Width X 2 + Allowance

DIPON BUFT
Solution for Size S
½ Chest = 53 + 2 = 55, ½ Chest Machine dia Consider = 55 ÷ 2.54 = 21.65 = 22 X 2.54 =
55.88
Body Length = 72+2.5+2= 76.5
Sleeve Length = 23+2.5+2= 27.5
(76.5+27.5) X 55.88 x 24 x 180

Body Consumption = + 10 %
1000 X 100 X 100
= 2.76 kg/Dzn
Neck Opening/Length = (18.5 X 2) + 2 = 39

Neck width/ Binding = (2 X 2) + 2 = 6
39 X 6 X 12 X 240
Neck Consumption=
1000 X 100 X 100 + 10 % = 0.074 kg/Dzn
CM Calculation
Exercise – 1
Total Direct and Indirect cost A= 60000, Total Number machine B= 120
Number of working day/ month = 26
A 60000
Average cost per machine T= = = 19.23
B X 26 120 X 26
Number of machine per line, C = 30
Cost per line =C X T = 30 X 19.23 = $ 576.9
Working hour/ day = 08 and Output / hour = 150
Actual output per line per day= X = output per hour X total working hour/ Day
CXT 576.9
CM per pcs= = = $ 0.840/pcs
X 150 x 8
Exercise – 2
Total cost= $ 90000, No of the machine – 300, Number of working day / Month =26
Number of machine/ line =25, Working hour/ day = 08, Output / hour = 150
CM =?
A 90000
Average cost per machine per day, T= = = 11.23
B X 26 300 X 26
Cost per line= 11.54 X 25= 288.5
Actual output per line= 150 X 8= 1200 pcs
CXT 288.5
CM = = = $ 0.24/pcs
X 1200

DIPON BUFT
Cartoon Consumption
Exercise
Total Order Qty – 50,000 pcs, Qty/Cartoon – 50 pcs
Carton Size – (60 X 40 X 40) cm, Per Square Meter Price = $0.70
What will be Total Cost?
Formula ofCarton Consumption
(L+H)X (W+H) X 2
Total area of a carton = Square Meter/ Ctn
100 X 100
(60+40)X (40+40) X 2
= = 1.6 square mtr /Ctn
100 X 100
For 50 pcs we need = 1 carton, ∴For50,000 pcs we need = 50,000/ 50 = 1000 Cartoon
For 1 Ctn we need = 1.6 square mtr, ∴ For 1000 Ctn we need = 1.6 X 1000 = 1600 Square
Meter
1 Square Meter cost = $ 0.70 USD, ∴1600 Square Meter Cost = 1600 X 0.70 = $ 1120
USD
CBM Calculation
Exercise:
Total Order Qty – 10,000 Pcs
Qty/Carton – 50 Pcs
Carton Size – (60 X 40 X 40) cm
Per CBM Price - $50
Per Kg Price - $35
Good will be ship “Air”. What will total price & which metric will goods ship?
For 50 pcs required = 1 carton

10,000 pcs = 10,000/ 50 = 200 Cartoon
Formula for Volume Metric weight (For Air)
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in CM]
6000
LXWXH
Kg [Measurement in inch]
36
60 X 40 X 40
∴Volume Metric weight = kg/Ctn
6000

DIPON BUFT
= 16kg/ctn
∴ Total Weight for 200 Ctn = 200 X 16 = 3200 kg
CBM Metric
LXWXH
CBM/Ctn [Measurement in CM]
100 X 100 X 100
60 X 40 X 40
= CBM/Ctn
100 X 100 X 100
= 0.096 CBM/Ctn
∴ Total CBM for 200 Ctn = 200 X 0.096 = 19.2 CBM
Total Price for 19.2 CBM = 19.2 X 50 = $ 960
Total Price for 3200 Kg = 3200 X 35 = $ 1, 12,000
Ans: Good will be shipped by weight Metric and Price will be $ 1, 12,000
Some additional information for CBM calculation

FCL – FULL container load.
LCL – less container load.
GOH – Garments on Hanger.
Container size
40 feet(H) – L X W X H = 474”X 84” X 106” = 69.16 CBM = 63 CBM Usable
Thread Consumption
Exercise
A T-shirt have 25 inch Single Needle Lock Stich, 15 inch chain stitch, and 10 inch 3
thread overlock. How much thread need to sew the t-shirt.
For 25 inch S/N lock stitch we = 7.5 X 25 = 187.5 cm [7.5 cm for 1 inch]
need
For 15 inch Chain Stitch we need = 14 X 15 = 210 cm [14 cm for 1 inch]
For 10 inch 3 thread O/L we need = 10 X 41 = 410 cm [41cm for 1 inch ]
Total Thread we need = 807.5 cm

DIPON BUFT
Mostly used stitch in garments:
Name of Stich Requirement for 1 inch
Plain Stitch/ Single needle look stitch 7.5 cm for 1 inch
Double needle Lock Stitch 15 cm for 1 inch
Chain stitch 14cm for 1 inch
3 thread over lock 41cm for 1 inch
4 thread over lock 48.5 cm for 1 inch
5thread over lock 55 cm for 1 inch
Blind stitch 11cm for 1 inch
ZigZag stitch 19 cm for 1 inch
Bar tack 27 inch for 1 inch
General Consumption for sewing thread

Name of the Garments Thread Required/Pcs
Basic T- shirt 140meter/ per pcs
Trouser 370m/pcs
Basic shirt 175m/ pcs
Shorts 300m/pcs
Basic jacket 350m/pcs

DIPON BUFT
Consumption:
How to Calculate Carton Costing in Garment Industry?
Example:
Suppose, a 5 ply carton having length 65cm, width 45cm and height 12cm. Now
calculate Carton box costing for 400pcs carton box. (where, 5 ply board rate is $0.65
per square meter).
Solution:
Carton length – 65cm,

Width of carton- 45cm,
Carton height – 12cm,
5 ply board rate per square meter- $0.65
Total carton-400pcs.
So,
Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),
= 1.41 square meter per pc carton.

Now, from (1), we get-
Carton costing (Per pc carton box),

= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq.
meter)
= 1.41 × 0.65
=$0.92 per pc carton box.
So,
For 1pc carton, carton box costing stands at =$0.92.

DIPON BUFT
And,
For 400pcs carton, carton box costing will be (0.92 × 400) = $368.
How to Calculate Poly Bag Costing in

Garment Industry?
Example:
Suppose, the buyer “ZARA” suggests the below information about the poly bag of a
garment export order.
Poly bag length – 28”,

Poly bag width- 24”,
Poly bag thickness – 160gauge,
½ flap of poly bag- 5”,
Rate of LDPE polymer- $0.40 per pound.
At first, we have to calculate poly consumption according to given data.
Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg),
= 38.4 kg per 1000pcs ply bag.

So, for 1000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed 38.4kg.
And,
For 1pc poly bag, LDPE polymer needed,

= (38.4/1000) kg= 0.04kg= (0.04 × 2.20) lbs= 0.08lbs
So, cost of LDPE polymer for 1pc poly bag ($),
= LDPE polymer needed for 1pc poly bag × LDPE polymer cost per pound (lb)
= 0.08 × 0.40
= 0.03
So, cost of LDPE polymer or cost for 1pc poly bag is $0.03

DIPON BUFT
And,
Cost of 1000pcs poly bag,

= $(1000 × 0.03) = $30
How to Calculate Costing for Woven Shirt?

Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “Bangla Apparel” forwards a “woven long sleeve shirt” item order to you with
the following specification.
Fabric width- 60”
Follow the below measurement chart:

Actual Length Allowance Measurement with Allowance
Body Length from HSP 64cm 6cm 70cm
½ Chest 40cm 6cm 46cm
Sleeve Length 30cm 6cm 36cm
Armhole (Straight) 15cm 5cm 20cm
Collar Length 38cm 4cm 42cm
Collar Width 6cm 2cm 8cm
Cuff Length 10cm 3cm 13cm
Cuff Width 2.5cm 0.5cm 3cm
Collar Band Length 28cm 3cm 31cm
Collar Band Width 2cm 2cm 4cm
Pocket Length 13cm 2cm 15cm
Pocket Width 9cm 1cm 10cm
Yoke Length 42cm 4cm 46cm
Yoke Height 11cm 3cm 14cm
Now, calculate the garments costing (on FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric width – 60”
(Here, the given fabric width is 60”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric.
So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is
60-1 = 59”)
Wastage – 10%

DIPON BUFT
Let,
1. Fabric Cost per yds- $3.50

2. Printing Cost per dozen- $1.6
3. Embroidery Cost per dozen- $4.00
4. Accessories Cost per dozen- $1.80
5. Washing Cost per pcs- $2.00 so, washing cost per dozen is – ($2.00 × 12) =
$24.00
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for this order.
1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest):
Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),
= 14.32yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………….. (A)
So, fabric consumption for the Body Parts (Body + Chest) is 14.32yds per dozen.
(Note: 2.54 used to convert into inch from cm and 36 used to convert into yds
from inch).
2. Fabric consumption for the Sleeve:
= 6.41yds per
dozen……………………………………………………………………………… (B)
So, fabric consumption for the sleeve is 6.41yds per dozen.

DIPON BUFT
3. Fabric consumption for the Collar:
= 1.50yds per
dozen……………………………………………………………………………………………
(C)
So, fabric consumption for the Collar is 1.50yds per dozen.
4. Fabric consumption for the Cuff:

= 0.35yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………. (D)
So, fabric consumption for the Cuff is 0.35yds per dozen.
5. Fabric consumption for the Collar Band:
= 0.55yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
.. (E)

DIPON BUFT
So, fabric consumption for the Collar Band is 0.55yds per dozen.
6. Fabric consumption for the Pocket:

= 0.67yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
. (F)
So, fabric consumption for the Pocket is 0.67yds per dozen.
7. Fabric consumption for the Yoke:

= 2.86yds per
dozen………………………………………………………………………………………………
.. (G)
So, fabric consumption for the Yoke is 2.86yds per dozen.
Now,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G we will get the total fabric consumption per dozen for
the order. Here also, we add the fabric wastage%
Total fabric consumption with wastage% for the woven long sleeve shirt is-
= {(A + B + C + D + E + F + G) + Wastage %}
= {(14.32 + 6.41 + 1.50 + 0.35 + 0.55 + 0.67 + 2.86) + 10%}
= (26.66 + 10%) per dozen.
= 29.33yds per dozen.

DIPON BUFT
So, total fabric consumption for the woven long sleeve shirt is 40.997yds per
dozen.
As, fabric cost per yds is $3.50 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.33yds × $3.50) =
$102.66
Now,
By adding all the following costs with fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of
garments per dozen.
Fabric cost per dozen ……………………………………… $102.66

………………………………. (H)
Printing Cost per dozen ……………………………………..$1.60
……………………………………… (I)
Embroidery Cost per dozen ……………………………… $4.00
………………………………………. (J)
Accessories Cost per dozen ………………………………..$1.80
………………………………………. (K)
Washing cost per dozen ……………………………….……
$24.00……………………………………… (L)
Cost of making (CM)…………………………….…….……. $5.00
………………………………………. (M)
Commercial cost ……………………………………..………. $0.60
……………………………………….. (N)
Others cost ……………………………………………….……. $0.20
……………………………………….. (O)
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen = (H + I + J + K + L+ M + N + O)

= $ (102.66 + 1.60 + 4.00 + 1.80 + 24.00 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)
= $139.86 per dozen.
In case of factory, we received the order from a buying hose (Here, we got the order
from Bangla Apparel Buying House), so we have to pay 10%commission to them for
that order.
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $139.86 per dozen + 10% commission
In factory garments costing, profit% for the factory (here-15%) should be added with
total FOB cost per dozen.
So,

DIPON BUFT
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-
= $153.85 + 15%
= $176.92
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($176.92 / 12) = $14.74
So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs garment is $14.74
How to Calculate Garments Costing for Woven Bottom?
Example:
Suppose,
The Buyer “Metro-Tex” forwards a “Woven Denim Bottom” item order to you with the
following specification.
Follow the below measurement chart.

Measurement with
Actual Length in (inch) Sewing Allowance Sewing Allowance
Total Length including
Waist Height 46” 2” 48”
Waist Width 37” 2” 39”
HIP 43” 2” 45”
Thigh 20” 2” 22”
Bottom Width 14” 2” 16”
Back Pocket Length 8” 1” 9”
Back Pocket Width 7” 1” 8”
Belt Loop Length 1.5” 0.5” 2”
Belt Loop Width 0.5” 0.5” 1”
Pocket Bag Length 8” 1” 9”
Pocket Bag Width 7” 1” 8”
Now, determine the garments costing (on FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric width – 58”
(Here, the given fabric width is 58”, during sewing, we cannot use the edge of a fabric.
So, all time we must exclude 1” from the given fabric width. So, now the fabric width is
58-1 = 57”)
Wastage – 10%

DIPON BUFT
Let,
1. Fabric Cost per yds- $3.70

2. Printing Cost per dozen- $1.40
3. Embroidery Cost per dozen- $3.80
4. Accessories Cost per dozen- $1.70
5. Washing Cost per pcs- $2.00 so, washing cost per dozen is – ($2.00 × 12) =
$24.00
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.
1. Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:
Now,
Body Width,
= 1/2 Thigh with sewing allowance
= 22
Now, from equation (A), we get-
= 24.70yds per dozen………………………………………………… (B)
So, fabrics needed for the body parts is 24.70yds per dozen.
2. Fabric consumption for the Back Pocket (2pcs):

= 1.68yds per dozen………………………………………………………………..(C)
So, fabrics needed for the back pocket is 1.68yds per dozen.

DIPON BUFT
3. Fabric consumption for the Pocket Bag (2pcs):
= 3.37yds per dozen……………………………………………… (D)
So, fabrics needed for the pocket bag is 3.37yds per dozen.
4. Fabric consumption for the Belt Loop (5pcs):

= 0.12yds per dozen……………………………………………. (E)
So, fabrics needed for the belt loop is 0.12yds per dozen.
Now,
By adding the equation B, C, D and E we can achieve the total fabrics

consumption for the above order (per dozen)-
= (B +C + D + E) yds per dozen
= (24.70 + 1.68 + 3.37 + 0.12) yds per dozen.
= 29.87yds per dozen.
So, total fabric consumption for the above order is 29.87yds per dozen.
As, fabric cost per yds is $3.70 then, total fabric cost per dozen is (29.87yds × $3.70) =
$110.52
Now,

DIPON BUFT
By adding all the following costs with total fabric cost, we will get the total FOB cost of
garments per dozen.
Fabric cost per dozen ………………………… $110.52 ……………………. (H)

Printing Cost per dozen ………………………$1.40 ……………….………… (I)
Embroidery Cost per dozen ………………… $3.80 …………………………. (J)
Accessories Cost per dozen …………………..$1.70 …………….…………… (K)
Washing cost per dozen ……………………… $24.00………………………… (L)
Cost of making (CM)…………………………… $5.00 …………..…………….. (M)
Commercial cost ………………………….……. $0.60 ………………………….. (N)
Others cost ………………………………….……. $0.20 ………………………….. (O)
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen = (H + I + J + K + L+ M + N + O)

= $ (110.52 + 1.40 + 3.80 + 1.70 + 24.00 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)
from Metro-Tex Buying House), so we have to pay 7%commission to them for that
order.
In factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total FOB
cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-

=$157.53 + 10% profit
= $173.28
Method For Knitted Polo Shirt

DIPON BUFT
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “CK” forwards a knitted polo shirt item order (20000pcs) to you with the
following specification.
1. 100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and
Pocket. Where fabric GSM is 180.
2. 1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 225.
3. Print on front part.
4. Embroidery on sleeve,
Follow the below measurement sheet.
Actual Measurement
length Allowance with Allowance
Body length 67cm 6cm 73cm
Sleeve length 19cm 6cm 25cm
½ Chest width 53cm 6cm 59cm
Collar length 38cm 0cm 38cm
Collar width 6cm 3cm 9cm
Cuff length 21cm 4cm 25cm
Cuff width 3cm 2cm 5cm
Pocket length 12cm 3cm 15cm
Pocket width 9cm 3cm 12cm
Half-moon length 13cm 3cm 16cm
Half-moon width 8cm 3cm 11cm
Now, calculate the garments costing (On FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric GSM- 180 for cotton single jersey,
Fabric GSM- 225 for 1 × 1 Rib fabric.
Let,
Yarn Price per kg- $4.00

Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.40
Dyeing Cost per kg- $2.00
Printing Cost per dozen- $3.50
Embroidery Cost per dozen- $5.50
Accessories Cost per dozen- $1.95
Now, we have to determine the fabric consumption for the above order.
Fabric Consumption:
1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):

DIPON BUFT
Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),
= 2.50kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) is 2.50kg per dozen.
2. Fabric consumption for Collar:

= 0.10kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Collar is 0.10kg per dozen.
3. Fabric consumption for Cuff:

= 0.07kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Cuff is 0.07kg per dozen.
4. Fabric consumption for Pocket:

DIPON BUFT
= 0.04kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Pocket is 0.04kg per dozen.
5. Fabric consumption for Half- moon:

= 0.04kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Half- moon is 0.04kg per dozen.
Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per
dozen),
= [{Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumption for Pocket
+ Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]
= {(2.50 + 0.04 + 0.04) kg + 10%}
= 2.58kg + 10%
= 2.84kg per dozen.
So, cotton single jersey Grey fabrics needed per dozen 2.84kg.
And,
Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),
= {(Fabric consumption for Collar + Fabric consumption for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}
= {(0.10 + 0.07) kg + 10%}
= (0.17kg + 10%)
= 0.19kg per dozen.
So, 1 × 1 Rib Grey fabrics needed per dozen 0.19kg.

DIPON BUFT
Total grey fabric needed to make the polo shirt is – (2.84+ 0.19 = 3.03kg) per dozen
As yarn price per kg is $4.00 then, total grey fabrics cost per dozen is (3.03kg × $4.00)
= $12.12
Total grey fabrics cost per dozen is $12.12

Now, adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with
grey fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be achieved.
So,
Actual fabric cost,

= Total Grey fabric cost + [{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing cost} × Total grey
fabric] per dozen
= [$12.12 + {($1.40 + $2.00) × 3.03}] per dozen
= $22.42 per dozen.
So, actual fabric cost per dozen is……..…. $22.42 ………………… (A)
Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $3.50 ………………….. (B)
Embroidery cost per dozen ………………… $5.50 ……..…….…….. (C)
Accessories Cost per dozen………………..…$ 1.95 ….……………… (D)
Cost of making (CM)……………………….…. $7.00 ……………..…… (E)
Commercial cost ……………………………….. $0.50 …………..…..…. (F)
Others cost ………………………………………. $0.20 ………………..… (G)
Here,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G, we will achieve the total FOB cost of garments per
dozen for the above order.
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A +B + C + D+ E + F + G)

= $ (22.42 + 3.50 + 5.50 + 1.95 + 7.00 + 0.50 + 0.20)
= $41.07 per dozen.
So, total FOB cost per dozen is $41.07
In buying house costing, profit% for the buying house (here-20%) should be added with
So, in this situation, total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at-
=$41.07 + 20% commission
= $49.28 per dozen.
So, Buying House costing (FOB) per pcs garment of the above order is $4.11

DIPON BUFT
Method of Garments Costing for Knitted Polo Shirt

Example:
Suppose,
One of the buyers named “Ha-Meem Group” forwards a knitted polo shirt item order
(20000pcs) to you with following specification.
1. 100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and
Pocket. Where fabric GSM is 170.
2. 1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 220.
Follow the below measurement chart.
3. Print on Pocket.
4. Embroidery on Back part.
Follow the below measurement sheet.
Measurement with
Actual length Allowance Allowance
Body length 65cm 6cm 71cm
Sleeve length 18cm 6cm 24cm
½ Chest width 50cm 6cm 56cm
Collar length 36cm 0cm 36cm
Collar width 7cm 3cm 10cm
Cuff length 20cm 4cm 24cm
Cuff width 3cm 2cm 5cm
Pocket length 11cm 3cm 15cm
Pocket width 8cm 3cm 11cm
Half-moon length 14cm 3cm 17cm
Half-moon width 7cm 3cm 10cm
Now, determine the garments costing (On FOB) for the above order.
Solution:
Fabric GSM- 170 for cotton single jersey,
Fabric GSM- 220 for 1 × 1 Rib fabric.
Let,
Yarn Price per kg- $3.90
Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.50
Dyeing Cost per kg- $2.10
Printing Cost per dozen- $3.90
Embroidery Cost per dozen- $6.00
Accessories Cost per dozen- $2.00
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.
Fabric Consumption:
1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):

DIPON BUFT
= 2.17kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) is 2.17kg per dozen.
2. Fabric consumption for Collar:

= 0.10kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Collar is 0.10kg per dozen.
3. Fabric consumption for Cuff:

= 0.06kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Cuff is 0.06kg per dozen.
4. Fabric consumption for Pocket:


DIPON BUFT
= 0.03kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Pocket is 0.03kg per dozen.
5. Fabric consumption for Half- moon:

= 0.03kg per dozen.
So, fabric consumption for Half- moon is 0.035kg per dozen.
Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per
dozen),
= [{Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumption for Pocket
+ Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]
= {(2.17 + 0.03 + 0.03) kg + 10%}
= 2.23kg + 10%
= 2.45kg per dozen.
So, cotton single jersey Grey fabrics needed per dozen 2.45kg.
And,
Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),
= {(Fabric consumption for Collar + Fabric consumption for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}
= {(0.10 + 0.06) kg + 10%}
= (0.16kg + 10%)
= 0.18kg per dozen.
So, 1 × 1 Rib Grey fabrics needed per dozen 0.18kg.

DIPON BUFT
Total grey fabric needed to make the polo shirt is – (2.45+ 0.18 = 2.63kg) per dozen
As yarn price per kg is $3.90 then, total grey fabrics cost per dozen is (2.63kg × $3.90)
= $10.26
So, Total grey fabrics cost per dozen is $10.26

Now, adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with
grey fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be determined.
So,
Actual fabric cost,
= Total Grey fabric cost + [{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing cost} × Total grey
fabric] per dozen
= [$10.26 + {($1.50 + $2.10) × 2.63}] per dozen
= $19.79 per dozen.
So, actual fabric cost per dozen is………. $19.73 ………………….. (A)
Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $3.90 ………………………. (B)
Embroidery cost per dozen ………………… $6.00 ……………………….. (C)
Accessories Cost per dozen……………….…$ 2.00 ………………………… (D)
Cost of making (CM)……………………………. $5.00 ………………………… (E)
Commercial cost …………………………………. $0.55 …………………………. (F)
Others cost …………………………………………. $0.25 ………………………… (G)
Here,
By adding A, B, C, D, E, F and G, we will get the total FOB cost of garments per dozen
for the above order.
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A +B + C + D+ E + F + G)

= $ (19.73 + 3.90 + 6.00 + 2.00 + 5.00 + 0.55 + 0.25)
= $37.43 per dozen.
So, total FOB cost per dozen is $37.43
Normally, in case of factor costing, it should be think that, as we have received the order
from a buying house (Here, we got the order from Ha-meem Group’s Buying House), so
we have to pay 8%commission to them for that order.
So, in this condition, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-
= $40.42 per dozen.
cost per dozen.
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($40.42 + 10%) = $44.46
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($44.46 / 12) = $3.71So, factory cost (FOB) per pcs
garment of the above order is $3.71

DIPON BUFT
How to prepare Costing Sheet for Sweater Garments:
Costing Sheet of Sweater Garments
Buyer BELLE Date 15.08.2015
Style BEL-T-04 Delivery 12.09.2015
Description Women Sweater Quantity 15000pcs
Size M
Factory Meek Sweater Ltd.
Yarn 100% Bright Acrylic 2/52”S
GSM 255
Wash Instruction Silicon wash
Yarn Cost Per Dozen

Yarn Item Consumption Unit price($) Amount ($)
100% Bright Acrylic 2/52”S Yarn 8lbs 4.00 32.00
Total (Fabric cost + Processing) Per Dozen) per dozen 32.00
Accessories (Trimmings+ Packing + Embellishment) cost per dozen

Main Label 0.20
Care Label 0.15
Sewing
Thread 1.05
Elastic –
Eyelet –
Embroidery 1.00
Drawstring –
Washing 5.00
Print 1.00
Button 1.50
Zipper 0.50
Hanger –
Hang Tag 0.45
Carton 1.00
Accessories (Trimmings+ Packing Poly Bag 1.00
+ Embellishment) cost per dozen Others 0.10
Total Accessories (Trimmings+ Packing + Embellishment) cost per dozen 12.95
Lab Test (Fabric and Garments) per dozen –
Total (Fabric + Accessories+ Lab test) cost per dozen 44.95
Cost of making (CM) including profit per dozen 9.00
Commercial cost 4% of total (Fabric + Accessories+ Lab test) cost per dozen 1.80
Total price per dozen 55.75
FOB price per pc 4.65

DIPON BUFT
Factors Affecting Garments Costing

Factors affecting garments costing:
There are some factors which directly affects on garments costing. Those are in the
following:
1. Fabrication,
2. Size specification,
3. Fabric consumption,
4. Fabric color,
5. CM (Cost of making),
6. Trimmings and Accessories,
7. Print,
8. Embroidery,
9. Wash,
10. Order quantity,
11. Test requirement,
12. Inspection,
13. GSP,
14. L/C payment term,
15. Commercial cost,
16. Profit,
17. Shipment date.
1. Fabrication:
Before providing costing of an order to the buyer, a garments merchandiser must take
clear idea regarding the fabrication from the buyer. In case of woven garments
fabrication it can be 10%cotton denim, 2/1 RHT twill, Stretch denim etc and in case of
Knit garments it can be Jersey, Piquet etc.
2. Size specification:
It’s an important point for garments costing. After receiving an order, a garments
merchandiser must confirm the correct size specification given by the buyer with order.
Occasionally it’s seen that, PO sheet has come with different size which was not during
the costing.
3. Fabric consumption:
Fabric consumption is another one which has so much importance on garment costing.
Here, a garments merchandiser must count all the required fabrics needed for making
that garment such as- Body fabric, Rib, Neck tape, Appliqué and others fabric with
wastage.

DIPON BUFT
4. Fabric color:
Here, a garment merchandiser must confirm the fabric color by discussing with the
buyer, that how many colors in the particular style of garments and also confirm color
wise order quantity ratio.
5. CM (Cost of making):
CM or cost of making must be fixed after discussing with production department. It
varies depends on required machine quantity and output quantity.
6. Trimmings and Accessories:

In this case, a garment merchandiser has to calculate required trimmings and
accessories needed for completing the order. Here, one important thing is that,
merchandiser should calculate the price of trimmings and accessories individually to
reduce mistake.
7. Print:
If the garments have print, then a garment merchandiser must follow the clear art work
of that, also confirm about the mentioned print quality and dimension. It will help the
merchandiser to make accurate costing.
8. Embroidery:
If the garments have embroidery then a garment merchandiser must confirm correct
price quotation after discussing with suppliers.
9. Wash:
It’s another important one for garments costing. In running garments business,
maximum garments have wash process. So, here a garment merchandiser must
confirm correct wash price after discussing with wash factory.
10. Order quantity:

Here, a garments merchandiser must try to take information regarding order quantity
from the buyer. Sometimes it’s seen that, garments price varies according to order
quantity.
11. Test requirement:

Test requirement of garments is an important point for garments costing. A garment
merchandiser must confirm about it by discussing with buyer before providing final
costing.

DIPON BUFT
12. Inspection:
Here, a garment merchandiser must confirm about the inspection terms by discussing
with the buyer, that who will inspect the goods. If third party inspection, then who will
pay their charges.
13. GSP:
GSP is an important factor which affects in garments costing. A garments merchandiser
must confirm about GSP by discussing with the buyer that buyer has needed the GSP
or not.
14. L/C payment term:

Here, garments merchandiser must collect a previous L/C copy from buyer and discuss
with buying commercial department regarding all the terms along with payment.
15. Commercial cost:

Normally, buying house has added 3% of total purchase (Fabric cost + Accessories cost
+ others item cost) as commercial cost if the L/C payment term is as sight. If the L/C is
60 days deferred, then you can add 7.5% additional cost of total price and it will be 15%
for 90 days L/C deferred.
16. Profit:
Normally in case of buying house, profit added 20% of CM (Cost of making) cost.
17. Shipment date:

It is one of the important points for discussing with the buyer. Here a garments
merchandiser must confirm the shipment date by discussing with production
department.
How to Calculate Garments Cost of Making (CM)
Example:
Suppose,
H.N apparels has received an order of basic T-Shirt item.
Where,
H.N apparels total expenditure per month-30,00,000 taka
Total number of machines in the factory-100
Total number of machines required to complete an item-25
Targeted production per hour from the existing layout-180
Total working day per month-26
Total working hours per day-08

DIPON BUFT
Now calculate the cost of making(CM) of the mentioned item.
Solution:
Cost of making (CM) per pcs,
= 20.03 taka per pcs

= (20.03 × 12) taka per dozen
= 240.38 taka per dozen
= 240.38/78 (in dollar) {1dollar-78taka (running)}
= $3.08 per dozen
So, the cost of making (CM) per dozen basic T-Shirt is $3.08
How to Prepare Costing Sheet for Woven

Garments:
Costing Sheets for Woven Garments
Buyer Nautica Date 20.08.2015
Style N.H-11 Delivery 15.09.2015
Description Ladies Long Pant Order Quantity 10000pcs
Fabrication 98%Cotton 2%Spandex
GSM 290
Size L
Wash Instruction Heavy Enzyme Stone Wash
Factory Fashion Tex
Fabric Cost Per Dozen

DIPON BUFT
Fabrication Item Consumption Unit price ($) Amount ($)
Cotton 98% Spandex %2 Denim 20.00yds 3.5 70.00
Total Fabric cost Per Dozen per dozen 70.00
Accessories
(Trimmings+ Packing + Embellishment) cost per dozen
Main Label 0.30
Care Label 0.20
Sewing
Thread 1.10
Eyelet –
Elastic –
Drawstring –
Embroidery 3.00
Print 3.00
Washing 48.00
Button 1.50
Zipper 0.60
Hanger –
Hang Tag 0.50
Poly Bag 0.50

Accessories Carton 1.00
(Trimmings+ Packing +
Embellishment) cost per dozen Others 0.10
Lab Test (Fabric and Garments )per dozen –

DIPON BUFT
How to Calculate Sweater Costing in Buying House
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “CK” forwards a sweater order to you by mentioning the following terms:
 Yarn: 100% Acrylic, 2/36”S

 Weight: 195gm (2ply)
 Knitting: 12 GG plain knit in body, (2×2) Rib at bottom and sleeve opening,
 Specifications: Plain knit placket, 2 pockets.
Now, find out the garments costing of the above order.
Solution:
Let,
 Yarn Cost per lbs- $5.00

 Embroidery Cost per dozen- $1.50
 Printing Cost per dozen-$1.50
 Cost of Making (CM) per dozen- $25.00
 Washing Cost per dozen- $4.00
 Accessories Cost (Zipper, button etc.)- $4.00
Now,
Yarn costing per dozen garments:
As garments weight is 195gm for 1pc then for 1dozen garments, yarn needed (195 ×
12)
= 2340gm
= 5.16lbs (1lb = 453.6gm)

DIPON BUFT
After adding 10% wastage, total yarn needed- 5.68lbs
So, yarn cost per dozen stands at- $(5.00 × 5.68) = $28.38
By adding all the following costs with total yarn cost, we will get the total FOB
cost of garments per dozen.
 Yarn cost per dozen …………………………… $28.38 ……………………. (A)
 Printing Cost per dozen ………………………..$1.50 …………………… (B)
 Embroidery Cost per dozen ……………… $1.50 ……………………. (C)
 Accessories Cost per dozen …………………..$4.00 …………………… (D)
 Washing cost per dozen ……………………… $4.00……………………… (E)
 Cost of making (CM)……………………..….$25.00 ………………….. (F)
 Commercial cost …………………………….…. $1.00 ………………. (G)
 Others cost …………………………………………$0.50 …………….. (H)
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A + B + C + D + E+ F + G + H)
= $ (28.38+ 1.50+ 1.50+ 4.00+ 4.00+ 25.00+ 1.00+ 0.50)
= $65.88 per dozen.
In buying house costing, profit% for the buying house (here-20%) should be added with
So,
So, in the view of buying house costing (FOB) per pcs garment is $6.56
Costing sheet preparation for knit Garments:

Costing Sheet of Knit Garments
Buyer H&M Date 20.08.2015
Style H.M-03 Delivery 15.09.2015
Description Knitted polo shirt Quantity 10000pcs
Fabrication 100% cotton piquet
Size M
factory H.N Apparels Ltd.
Yarn 100% cotton (30/1) carded
GSM 180
Wash Instruction Silicon wash
(Fabric cost + Processing) Per Dozen
Fabrication Item Consumption Unit price($) Amount ($)
100% cotton Piquet Solid 180 Yarn 3kg 3.50 10.5
GSM Knitting 3kg 0.30 0.9

DIPON BUFT
100% cotton 1×1 Rib Collar +
Cuff Dyeing 3kg 1.20 3.6
Total (Fabric cost + Processing) Per Dozen) per dozen 15.00

Accessories
(Trimmings+ Packing + Embellishment) cost per dozen
Main Label 0.25
Care Label 0.15
Sewing Thread 1.00
Eyelet –
Elastic –
Twill Tape –
Drawstring –
Embroidery –
Print 3.00
Washing 5.00
Button –
Zipper 0.60
Hanger –
Hang Tag 0.40
Accessories Poly Bag 0.50
(Trimmings+ Packing + Carton 0.90
Embellishment) cost per dozen Others 0.10
Lab Test (Fabric and Garments) per dozen –

DIPON BUFT
Costing Method of Sweater Garments

(Factory Costing)
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “world Fashion” forwards a sweater order to you by mentioning the following
terms:
 Yarn: 100% Bright Acrylic, 2/52”S

 Weight: 255gm (2ply)
 Knitting: 12 GG plain knit in body, (1×1) Rib at bottom and sleeve opening,
 Specifications: Plain knit placket, slit, 2 pockets.
Now, calculate the garments costing of the above order.
Let,
 Yarn Cost per lbs- $4.00

 Embroidery Cost per dozen- $1.00
 Printing Cost per dozen-$1.00
 Cost of Making (CM) per dozen- $30.00
 Washing Cost per dozen- $5.00
 Accessories Cost (Zipper, button etc.)- $5.00
Now,
Yarn costing per dozen garments:
As garments weight is 255gm for 1pc then for 1dozen garments, yarn needed (255 ×
12),
= 3060 gm
= 6.74lbs (1lb = 453.6gm)
After adding 12% wastage, total yarn needed- 7.55lbs

So, yarn cost per dozen stands at- $(4.00 × 7.55) = $30.20

DIPON BUFT
By adding all the following costs with total yarn cost, we will get the total FOB
cost of garments per dozen.
Yarn cost per dozen ………………………… $30.20 ………………………. (A)
Printing Cost per dozen ……………………..$1.00 ……………….………… (B)
Embroidery Cost per dozen ……………… $1.00 …………………………. (C)
Accessories Cost per dozen ………………..$5.00 …………………………. (D)
Washing cost per dozen …………………… $5.00…………………………… (E)
Cost of making (CM)………………………. $30.00 ………………………….. (E)
Commercial cost ……………………………. $1.00 …………………………….. (F)
Others cost ……………………………….…. $0.50 …………………………….. (G)
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A + B + C + D + E+ F + G + H)
= $ (30.20+ 1.00+ 1.00+ 5.00+ 5.00+ 30.00+ 1.00+ 0.50)
= $73.70 per dozen.
from (“world fashion” Buying House), so we have to pay 7%commission to them for that
order.
= $78.86 per dozen.
In case of factory costing, profit% for the factory (here-10%) should be added with total
FOB cost per dozen.
So,
Garments Costing for Knitted T-shirt (factory costing)

Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “Fashion Xpress” provided you the following measurement chart of a knitted
printed T-Shirt order by mentioning the order quantity and fabric GSM.
1. Fabric is 100% cotton single jersey, and fabric GSM is 160
2. Order quantity is 10000pc.
Then calculate the garments Costing (on FOB) per pcs for this order.
Solution:
Given that,

DIPON BUFT
 Fabric GSM- 160,
 Body length with allowance- 90cm
 Sleeve length with allowance – 55cm
 ½ Chest width with allowance – 77cm
Let,
 Yarn Price per kg- $3.20
 Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.00
 Dyeing Cost per kg- $1.70
 Printing Cost per dozen- $4.00
 Accessories Cost per dozen- 1.60
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for this order.
Fabric Consumption:
All the measurements are applied on the following formula-
Fabric consumption per dozen, (All measurement in cm),
= 4.29 + 10% (in kg)

= 4.72kg per dozen.
So, grey fabrics needed per dozen garments are 4.72kg.
As yarn price per kg is $3.20 then, grey fabric cost per dozen is (4.72kg × $3.20) =
$15.104
After adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with
grey fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be determined.
So,
Actual fabric cost = Total Grey fabric cost + [{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing
cost} × 4.72kg] per dozen
= $15.104 + {($1.00 + $1.70) × 4.72} per dozen
So, actual fabric cost per dozen is………. $27.848 ………………….. (A)
Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $4.00 ……………………. (B)
Accessories Cost per dozen……………….…$ 1.60 ……………….…… (C)
Cost of making (CM)……………………………. $5.00 …………………… (D)
Commercial cost …………………………………. $0.60 ……………………. (E)
Others cost …………………………………………. $0.20 …………………… (F)

DIPON BUFT
Now, by adding A, B, C, D, E and F we will get the total FOB cost of garments per
dozen.
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A +B + C + D + E + F)

= $ (27.848 + 4.00 + 1.60 + 5.00 + 0.60 + 0.20)
Normally, in case of factory, we received the order from a buying hose (Here, we got the
order from Fashion Xpress Buying House), so we have to pay 8%commission to them
for that order.
= $42.39 per dozen.
cost per dozen.
So,
GSM Calculation for Woven Fabric
Example:Suppose,
A woven fabric construction is like that-
Now, calculate the fabric GSM.
Solution:
From the given fabric construction we can see that,
 Warp count- 50
 Weft count- 40
 EPI (Ends per inch) – 130
 PPI (Picks per inch) – 60
 Warp crimp factor- 1.2
 Weft crimp factor- 1.0
Now, by applying all the data in the required formula, we can easily find out the above
woven fabric GSM.

DIPON BUFT
GSM (Gram per square meter),
= (3.12 + 1.5) × 23.5

= 108.57
So, above woven fabric GSM is 108.57
How to Calculate Fabric GSM Using GSM Cutter?
Example:
Suppose,
5 pcs cutting swatches weights are 1.2gm, 1.4gm, 1.3gm, 1.1gm and 1.5gm
respectively.
Now,
Average weight of cutting swatch,
= 1.3gm
In this situation, we have to multiply average cutting swatch weight by 100 to get actual
fabric GSM.
So,
Fabric GSM = Average cutting swatch weight × 100

= 1.3 × 100
= 130
So, fabric GSM by using GSM cutter is 130

DIPON BUFT
Chargeable Weight Calculation System Under Air Freight for
Garments Import-Export
Example-01:
Suppose,
Gross weight or actual weight is 200kg,
 Cargo length is 100cm = 1m,

 Cargo width is 100cm = 1m,
 Cargo height is 100cm = 1m.
Find out the chargeable weight for air freight of this shipment.
Solution:
Now,
We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)
= (1 × 1 × 1) m3
= 1m3
Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,
Cargo weight = Cargo CBM (m3)/ 0.006

= 1/ 0.006
= 166.67kg.
So, the gross weight or actual weight is 200kg and cargo weight is 166.67kg. Among
two weights, gross weight or actual weight is higher than cargo weight. As a result gross
weight or actual weight will be chosen for chargeable weight for this shipment.
Example-02:
Suppose,
Gross weight or actual weight is 140kg,
 Cargo length is 98cm = 0.98m,

 Cargo width is 95cm = 0.95m,
 Cargo height is 96cm = 0.96m.
Find out the chargeable weight for air freight of this shipment.
Solution:
Now,
We calculate the Cargo CBM = Length (m) ×weight (m) × height (m)
= (0.98 × 0.95 × 0.96) m3
= 0.89376 m3
Now, cargo CBM has to divide by 0.006,

DIPON BUFT
Cargo weight = Cargo CBM (m3)/ 0.006
= 0.89376/ 0.006
= 148.96kg.
In this shipment, the gross weight or actual weight is 140kg and cargo weight is
148.96kg. Among two weights, cargo weight is higher than gross weight or actual
weight. As a result cargo weight will be chosen for chargeable weight for this shipment.
Easy Method of CBM Calculation Under LCL Sea Shipment
Example of CBM Calculation:

Suppose,
Total cartoon quantity of an order is 5000 (Every carton is in sane measurement).
 Length for each carton is 22”,

 Width for each carton is 15”,
 Height for each carton is 6”.
Now, calculate the CBM for shipping an order.
Solution:
Carton length = 22” = (22 × 2.54) cm = 55.88cm = (55.88/100) m = 0.5588m.
Carton width = 15” = (15 × 2.54) cm = 38.1cm = (38.1/100) m = 0.381m.
Carton height = 6” = (6 × 2.54) cm = 15.24 cm = (15.24/100) m =0.1524m.
Now by applying formula number (1), we have-
CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)
= (0.5588 × 0.381 × 0.1524) m3
= 0.03244639 m3
Now finally applying formula number (2), we have-
CBM calculation for total cartoon = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total number of
carton quantity
= (0.03244639 × 5000) m3
=162.23195 m3
So, CBM calculation for 5000 carton is 162.23195 m.
Trimmings and Accessories Inspection Procedure in Garment Sector
Size, Care Label

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor
Measurement Error X
Care symbol missing X

DIPON BUFT
Eligible lettering alphabet X
Printing blur / unclear/less distinct X
Lettering word Error X
Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X
Wrong care code X
Fabric consignment wrong X
Spelling mistake X
IN DC Date wrong X
Bar Code number wrong X
Word / Space error X
Vendor code missing / Wrong input X
Excess lettering alphabet X
The following defects or faults are top most critical defects with “ ZERO
TOLERANCE” which must be followed in trimmings and
accessories inspection process.
Incorrect Country of Origin X
Fabric Composition X
Care instruction / Symbol X
Size X
Inspection Defect Check List for Apparel Accessories and Trimmings:

DIPON BUFT
The below matters should strictly follow during trims and accessories inspection.
Main Label / Fit Label / Sub Label

Color missing / Shade variation X

Missing yarn X
Woven fault X
Measurement Error X
Button / Rivet
Broken button X
Button style mistake X
Off position logo X
Poor Thickness X
Missing Logo X
Eligible lettering alphabet X
Missing hole X
Measurement Error X
Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector X
Zipper
Tape Shading error X
Runner doesn’t work smoothly X

DIPON BUFT
Sharp teeth X
Woven fault X
Stopper missing X
Loose stopper X
Logo missing X
Style mismatch X
Measurement Error X
Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector X
Joker Tag / Hand Tag

Lettering alphabet error X
Shade variation X
Size mistake X
Logo missing X
Broken Joker Tag / Hand Tag X
Measurement Error X
Poor thickness X
Price Ticket
Style number missing X
Bar Code number missing X
Price printing missing X
Color bleeding X
Bar Code blur / unclear / less distinct X

DIPON BUFT
Logo missing X
Twill Tape
Defect Classification Critical
Color missing / Shade variation
Missing yarn
Elastic (Hole / Plain)

Missing yarn X
Poor thickness X
Poor elasticity sketchiness X
Denier error X
Measurement Error X
Knot
Velcro Tape
Sometimes loop parts are missing X
Sometimes hock parts are missing X
Measurement Error X
Tap thickness problem ( Soft / Hard ) X
Leather Patch / Paper Patch / Rubber Patch

DIPON BUFT
Measurement Error X
Letter missing X
Color bleeding X
Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector
CACULATE THESE COSTING SHEET IN

YOUR OWN WAY
Description S M L XL
Front Length From HSP 65 67 69 71
1/2 Chest Width 35 39 43 49
1/2 Bottom Width 41 45 49 55
Bottom Hem 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
Sleeve Hem 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Back Cross Width 43.5 44.5 48.5 46.5
Shoulder to Shoulder 46 48 5O 52
Neck Opening 22.5 23 23.5 24
Neck Drop Front 9 10 11 12
Neck Width 2 2 2 2
Shoulder Width 13.3 14.3 18.3 16.3
Shoulder Drop 4 4 4 4
Neck Drop Back 2 2 2 2
Sleeve Length 10 11 12 13
1/2 Armhole Straight 21.8 22.8 23.8 24.5
1/2 Sleeve Opening 19 19 19 19 1

DIPON BUFT
Men's Short Sleeve Tee
Fabrication: 100% Cotton, S/J 140 GSM
Collar: 1x1 Rib, 95% Cotton 5% Lycra, 240 GSM
Color Total Qty S M L XL
White 12500 2500 3750 3750 2500
Sky 12500 2500 3750 3750 2500
Black 12500 2500 3750 3750 2500
Yellow 12500 2500 3750 3750 2500
Information:
1. Yarn Price US$ 5.80/KG
2. Lycra US$ 20/KG
3. DTM sewing thread 150 Mtr/Pc, 100% Spun Poly 50/2, 4000 Mtr/Cone, Price US$ 1.3/cone.
4. Woven Main Label US$ 0.20/Dz
5. Woven Size Label US$ 0.10/Dz
6. Wash Care Label US$ 0.08/Dz
7. Individual Poly Bag 10mm 28x38 cm, US$ 0.60/ Dz
8. Tissue Paper US$ 0.07/Dz
9. Chest print in 4 colors, rubber, 38x24 cm, US$ 5/Dz.
10. Solid color size packing 80pcs/carton. Carton size 80x60x40 cm, 7ply carton. US$ 0.90/SQM.
11. Knitting for S/J US$ 0.15/KG, Lycra Rib US$ 0.30/KG, R/Dyeing US$ 1.4/KG, Finishing
average color USD 1.4/KG
12. Test Required-C/F to Washing, Shrinkage, Spirality, Pilling, Bursting Strength. Each Test
cost US$ 30.
13. Shipment will be done in FCL basis.
14. Sea freight US$60/CBM.
15. Other packing materials US$ 0.15/Dz
16. Commercial charges 3% on FOB.
Requirements:
1. Do yarn booking considering 15% process loss for both S/J & Lycra Rib.
2. Prepare Fabric requirement/indent as per required Dia including 10% wastage.
3. Prepare A trim sheet considering 10% wastage except Carton.
4. Calculate CM based on factory cost US$ 80,000/Month for 250 m/c. Hourly output 120 pcs
using 25 M/C. Working day/month 26 and working hour/day 8.
5. Prepare a packing list
6. Calculate CFR price/Dz.

DIPON BUFT
INDUSTRIAL ENGNEERING
Importance of Work Study in Clothing Industry
What is Work Study in Apparel Sector?

Work-study is a component of management science and it was developed by the well-
known American scientist F.W. Taylor, generally known as father of modern
management science.
It is a scientific method which ensures measurement of work content of a job and takes
recourse to better method of doing it and thus realizes the best utilization of human,
machinery and other resources of an organization.
Features of Work Study:

Work-study as a method is systematic in nature. It succeeds because it is systematic in
studying the problems and also systematic in developing the covered solution.
Comprehensiveness of Work Study:

In garments or apparel production floor, work-study is a very through process in
investigating problems and it is also comprehensive in determining solution of such
problems. It is a time consuming matter as work study is involved in rigorous study of
problems and through working out solutions.
How to Minimize Production Cost in Garment Manufacturing?
Techniques to Control Apparel Production Cost:

In apparel manufacturing industry, cost control can be done through the below ways:
1. Proper maintenances of machineries and equipment’s should be done systematically and
continuously with proper scheduling.
2. Effective and efficient production planning which will reduce the unnecessary
stoppages of machines and idleness of employees. It increases the machine efficiency.
3. Providing periodical training to the employees at all level about various latest
technologies, new and innovative methods of production and control etc. will improve the
effectiveness and efficiency of the work.
4. Unnecessary overtime should be reduced.
5. Employing skilled and experienced labors will increase the apparel production, reduces
the defective products etc.
6. Proper handling of various materials, equipment’s and machines should be carried out.

DIPON BUFT
7. Proper allocation of work to various resources like man, machine, money etc. should be
done.
8. Reduce the unnecessary movement of materials by employing proper layout and process
sequence in the clothing manufacturing process.
9. Implementation of integrated production system will reduce the different wastages and
costs.
10. Effective and efficient supply chain management should be done through using ERP
(Enterprise Resource Planning) system.
11. Development and implementation innovative system or methods in the various activities
in the apparel manufacturing process.
12. Efficient and proper utilization of various resources such as waster, steam, power etc.
13. Establishing standards and specification for various materials and methods.
14. Getting certifications like ISO 9000, SA 8000, OHSAS, ISO 14000, WRAP, Oeko-tex etc.
15. Implementation of various total quality management concepts and tools like PDCA,
Kaizen, 5’S, Bench marking, BPR, Quality circle etc.
16. Using modern machines and equipment’s for manufacturing will give good quality,
more production, less wastages and also they require less manpower.
17. Optimization of material requirement by using quantitative techniques.
18. Effective monitoring and control system for the use of miscellaneous resources like
power, telephone, stationaries etc.
19. Outsourcing of various activities which needs special attention or in which the company is
not having much expertise.
20. Providing proper ergonomics and essentials of working circumstances in the company by
keeping proper, clean and neat working condition.
21. Establishment of systematic communication system which will provide proper information
to the right person in right time will reduce the wastage, stoppages of machines etc.
22. Effective inventory control in stores and purchase will reduce the ordering cost, carrying
cost of different incoming materials.
Interview Questions and Answers for Textile Engineers(

Merchandiser).
Textile Interview Questions and Answers:

The major textile interview questions and answers have presented in the below:
1. What is load?
The application of a load to a specimen in its axial direction causes a tension to be
developed in the specimen. The load is usually expressed in gm-wt or pounds.
2. What is mass stress?

The ratio of the force applied to the linear density is termed as mass stress.
3. What is strain?
The ratio of elongation to initial length of a specimen is termed as strain.

DIPON BUFT
4. What is elastic recovery?
The ratio of elastic extension to the total extension of a specimen is termed as elastic
recovery.
5. What is specific flexural rigidity?

The ratio of the flexural rigidity to the linear density is known as flexural rigidity.
6. What is shape factor?

The quantity which determines the shape of material is known as shape factor. If shape
factor is 1 then fiber will be completely found.
7. What are torsional properties?

The behavior shown by the materials when it is subjected to a torsional force is known
its torsional properties.
8. What is bending recovery?

Recovery from a given curvature is known as bending recovery.
9. What is bending modulus?

The ratio of bending stress and bending strain is known as bending modulus.
10. What are frictional properties?

The property shown by the fiber due to the friction when processing is termed as
frictional properties.
11. What is swelling?

Swelling may be expressed in terms of the increase of diameter, area, length or volume
of a fibre due to absorbing water.
12. What is refractive index?

The ratio of sine of angle of incidence to sine of angle of refraction is known as
refractive index.
13. What is torsional rigidity?

The ratio of torque unit twist per unit length is known as torsional rigidity.
14. What is glass transition temperature?

The temperature at which the fiber behaves as a glass and brittle condition is known as
glass transition temperature. It is denoted by Tg. The range of Tg for linear polymer is
100°C to 300°C.
15. What is thermal conductivity?

DIPON BUFT
It is the rate of transfer of heat along a body by conduction. The higher value of thermal
conductivity, the fiber will then more conductive.
16. What is melting temperature?

The range of temperature at which the fiber melts is known as melting temperature. It is
denoted by Tm.
17. What is pressleys index?

The ratio of breaking load in pound of a fiber to the weight of fiber in mgm is termed as
pressleys index (P.I).
18. What is textile testing?

The process of determining the characteristics of textile products is known as textile
testing.
19. What is sampling?
The process by which a sample is collected from a large number of materials is termed
as sampling.
20. What is relative humidity?
The ratio of the actual vapor pressure to the standard vapor pressure at the same
temperature express as a percentage is known as relative humidity.
21. What is standard temperature?

An atmosphere at the prevailing barometric pressure with a relative humidity of 65%
and temperature of 20°C (68°F) is known as standard temperature.
22. What is quality control?

The checking verification and regulation of the degree of excellence of an attribute or
property of material is known as quality control.
23. What is testing temperature?
The atmosphere with a relative humidity of (65% ± 2%) and temperature of (20°C ± 2°C)
or (68°F ± 4°F) is known as testing temperature.
24. What is pitch?
Tip to tip of teeth distance is known as pitch.
25. What is souring?

The treatment by which the fabric after processing with scouring is stated with dilute
sulphuric acid for removing alkali is known as souring.
20 Factors to Improve Productivity in Apparel Sector:

The following measures should be adopted through the enterprise so as to improve
productivity in the readymade apparel-industry:
1. All materials available in time,
2. Using time and motion study,

DIPON BUFT
3. Right and scientific machine lay-out,
4. Right and scientific target setting,
5. Right type of technology used,
6. Right level of worker attendance,
7. Motivated workforce,
8. Computerization of all possible works of all the departments,
9. Right material handling processes,
10. Skill and workmanship of workers,
11. Job satisfaction at workplace,
12. Good work environment,
13. Using right systems,
14. Right leadership quality of supervisors, APms, PMs, etc,
15. Right organization of materials,
16. Right quantity of high performance machinery,
17. Proper machine maintenance,
18. Continues training,
19. Minimum worker migration,
20. Using right processes.
Common Shipping Terms Abbreviation for International

Trade
Shipping Terminology Used in Import Export Business:

Mostly used 60 shipping terms have presented in the below:
1. What is CM?
CM stands at cost of making or cutting and making.
2. What is FOB?
FOB means Freight on board.
3. What is C&F?
C&F means cost and freight or clearing and forwarding.
4. What is CIF?
CIF includes cost, insurance and freight.
5. What is CIFI?
In case of shipping terms, CIFI includes cost, insurance, freight and interest.
6. What is CIFE?
CIFE means cost, insurance, freight and exchange.

DIPON BUFT
7. What is COD?
COD stands at cash on delivery.
8. What is CWO?
CWO means cash with order.
9. What is FOW?
FOW stands at free on wagon.
10. What is CPT?

CPT stands at carriage paid to.
11. What is CIP?

In case of shipping terms, CIP means carriage and instruction paid to.
12. What is DAF?

DAF means delivered at frontier.
13. What is DES?

DES stands at delivered ex ship.
14. What is DEQ?

DEQ includes delivered ex quay.
15. What is DDU?

DDU means delivered duty unpaid.
16. What is DDO?

DDO stands at delivered duty paid.
17. What is A.D.I.S?

A.D.I.S stands at automated computer based data interchange system.
18. What is A/F?

A/F stands at advanced freight.
19. What is A.F.R.A?

A.F.R.A stands at average freight rate assessment.
20. What is A.G.B?

A.G.B stands at any good brand.

DIPON BUFT
21.What is Agt?
In case of shipping terms, Agt means agent or against.
22. What is A.I.F.T.A?

A.I.F.T.A means associate institute freight trades association.
23. What is AN?

AN means arrival notice.
24. What is AMT?

AMT stands at amount.
25. What is A/O?

A/O means account of (also AO.)
26. What is AP?

AP stands at additional premium or average payable.
27. What is A/R?

A/R stands at all risks (also A.R.) regards to insurance.
28. What is ASABOSA?

ASABOSA means association of ships agents and brokers of South Africa.
29. What is A.T.A?

A.T.A means actual time of arrival.
30. What is AV?

In cas31. What is BAF?
BAF means bunker adjustment factor.
32. What is BCV?

BCV means barge carrying vessel.
33. What is BD?

In case of shipping terms, BD means bank draft.
34. What is B/E?

B/E means bill of entry customs.
35. What is BIFA?

BIFA stands at British international freight association of freight forwarders.

DIPON BUFT
36. What is B/L?
B/L means Bill of Loading.
37. What is BN?

In case of shipping terms, BN stands at booking note.
38. What is B/P?

B/P stands at bills payable.
39. What is B.P.B?

B.P.B means bank post bill.
40. What is BSC?

BSC means British shippers council.
41. What is BV?

In case of shipping terms, BV stands at Bureau Veritas – French ship classification
society.
42. What is C&E?

C&E stands at customs and excise.
43. What is C.A.D?

C.A.D stands at cash against documents.
44. What is CAF?

CAF stands at container availability forecast.
45. What is C.A.N?

C.A.N means customs assigned number.
46. What is CCM?

CCM stands at central container management.
47. What is C.H?

C.H stands at custom house.
48. What is F&D?

F&D means freight and demurrage.
49. What is FCL?

FCL means full container load.

DIPON BUFT
50. What is FCS?
FCS means freight calculation sheet.
51. What is FPD?
FPD means freight payable at destination.
52. What is I.C. &C?

I.C. &C stands at invoice cost and charges.
53. What is I.C.B?

I.C.B stands at International container bureau.
54. What is ICC?

In case of sipping terms, ICC means International chamber of commerce
55. What is IEF?

IEF means International exchange file.
56. What is I.S.F?

I.S.F stands at International shipping federation.
57. What is L/C?

L/C means Letter of credit.
58. What is TIR?

TIR means turn-in reconciliation.
59. What is SOB?

SOB stands at shipped on board.
60. What is RPT?

In shipping terms, RPT stands at rate per ton.
e of shipping terms, AV means available container.
Important Questions in Garment Washing

1. Why de-size or de-sizing process is important in garment washing?
De-sizing is so much important due to the below reasons:
 To remove the sizing materials.

 To remove the starch.
 To increase the water absorption capacity.
 To modify for scouring and bleaching.

DIPON BUFT
 To increase the affinity of fabric to chemicals.
 To increase the luster after dyeing and printing.
2. What types of problem arise at de-sizing process?
The following problems have arisen during de-sizing process:
 If the water is less crease mark will come.

 If antiback stainer is less, back staining is more that affect the pocket.
 Garments will dull if back staining is more.
 If the de-size process will not good, the next process will be affected.
3. Why enzyme process is so important in garment washing?
Some important reasons for which enzyme process is so much important in garments
wash:
 To remove the color from fabric.
 To achieve desired shade.
 To achieve cast color.
 To achieve desired abrasion.
 To increase the cleanliness of garments.
4. What types of problems occurred during enzyme process?
There are some common problems which are seen during enzyme process mentioned
in the below:
 If water less, crease mark will come.
 If enzyme time is more, seam will be damaged.
 If enzyme percentage is more that time indigo will lose before abrasion coming.
 If enzyme percentage will less, time required more and garments will be
damaged.
5. Why bleaching process is important in garment washing?
For the below reasons, bleaching has great importance in garments washing:
 To remove the natural color.
 To clean up the garments.
 To remove stain from the apparel.
 To get the desired shade provided by the buyer.
6. What types of problem happened during bleaching stages?
There are some problems which are frequently happened during bleaching process:
 If the water percentage is low that time crease mark will come.
 If bleach percentage is more, garments will loose the color very quickly.
 If the machine will not running at the time of bleach added, bleach spot will come
there.
 If the machine RPM is high then garments shade will be uneven.
7. Mention some problems that happened for resin application in garment
washing.
Those problems are mentioned in the below:
 If the resin application is more on specific area that garments will tear.
 If we use the same process more than one time then tear may come.

DIPON BUFT
 If oven time is more, tear may come.
 If oven temperature is excessively high, tear m ay come.
 If we used resin more, garments will hard more.
 Due to using of resin, garments will be unwanted spotted.
 Due to using of resin, sometimes pocket may damage.
8. What are the processes normally used in the dry process section of garment
washing?
All the important dry processes of garments washing have pointed out in the below:
 Hand sand,
 Sand blasting,
 Whisker,
 Destroy,
 PP spray,
 Tagging,
 Grinding,
 Crinkle,
 3D crinkle,
 Heat pressing,
 PP rubbing,
 Resin spray,
 Pocket marking,
 Seam marking,
 Centre crease,
 Pigment spray,
 Crimping,
 PP spot,
 Bleach spot,
 Resin spot etc.
9. Which types of wash mainly applied in garment washing?
There are various types of wash applied in garments washing. Those are in the
following:
 Light wash,
 Rinse wash,
 Sand wash,
 Garment wash,
 Enzyme wash,
 Bleach wash,
 Enzyme bleach wash,
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash,
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash + bleach wash,
 Softener silicon wash,
 Acid wash,
 Tie wash,
 Towel bleach wash,
 Crystal wash,
 Rubber ball wash etc.

DIPON BUFT
Advantages of Garment Dyeing:
Popularity of garment dyeing is increasing day by day in all over the world. There are so
many advantages of garments dyeing over fabric dyeing which are mentioned in the
below:
1. It needs comparatively lower production cost for any items of any color and shade.
2. It requires comparatively less time to produce and supply the apparel.
3. In garment dyeing, there is no possibility of shade variation within the garments.
4. Here, within less time small lots of different items could be produced at lower cost.
5. In case of garments dyeing, old garments could be redyed. Hence, it looks likes new
garments.
6. Here, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and finishing have done in the
same machine.
7. It needs comparatively lower capital investment cost to set-up a garments dyeing project.
8. Here, lower require ratio in garments dyeing requires lower water, steam
and chemical consumption as a result of lower garments dyeing cost.
9. In fabric cutting approximately 10-15% fabric is cut out as fabric wastage. If this 10-15%
fabric is cut out as grey fabric rather than colored fabric then wastage cost will be saved.
List of Chemicals Used in Laundry:
Various types of chemicals used in garments washing are mentioned in the following:
1. Whitening agent,
2. Wetting agent,
3. Detergent silicon,
4. Hygroscopic agent,
5. Fixing agent,
6. Softening agent,
7. Defoaming agent,
8. Silicon,
9. Rubbing fastness improvers,
10. Sequestering agent,
11. Meta by sulphite,
12. Weight giving agent,
13. Water proofing agent,
14. Enzyme,
15. Acid enzyme,
16. Neutral enzyme,
17. Stiffering agent,
18. Bleaching agent,
19. Chlorine bleach,
20. Calcium hypochlorite,
21. Sodium hypochlorite,
22. Hydrogen peroxide,
23. Anti-back-stain,
24. Caustic,
25. Potash,
26. Soda,
27. Acetic acid,
28. Lakage,
29. Phosphoric acid,

DIPON BUFT
30. Hypo,
31. Ant mildew agent,
32. Biopolishing.
Process Flow Chart of Crystal Wash
P.P spray
↓
Garments loading into the machine
↓
De-sizing
↓
Rinsing (Two times)
↓
P.P neutralization
↓
Softening
↓
Hydro
↓
Drying
All the above processes have discussed in the below:

SL
No. Process Procedure
It is the first process of crystal Wash. According

tobuyers provided wash reference P.P sprayed in the garments
01 P.P spray by using required chemical.

DIPON BUFT
Garments loading into the
02 machine Here, required amount of garments are loaded into the machine.
Garments are de-sized here by using de-sizing chemical such as

03 De-sizing boide, Anti back stain etc.
After completing de-sizing, garments are rinsed here for two

04 Rinsing (Two times) times to remove size material from the garments.
P.P has to neutralize here by using required amount of

05 P.P neutralization sodium meta bi-sulphite and acetic acid.
In this section, softening has done by using anionic

06 Softening softener.
Garments unloading from the After completing all the above processes, finally garments are
07 machine unloaded from the machine.
08 Hydro Here garments are extracted by using hydro extractor.
Garments are dried here by using gas dryer or steam dryer. Gas
dryer is used for reddish shade garments and steam dryer is used
09 Drying for bluish shade garments.
Various Method of Bleaching Wash with Advantages and

Disadvantages
Advantage of Bleaching Wash:

Different types of advantages of bleaching wash have mentioned in the following:
1. Can produce special effect on garments.

2. Enhance the beauty of garments.
3. Can attract the buyers easily.
4. Huge demand to the young generation.
Limitation of Bleaching Wash:
Various limitations of bleaching wash have mentioned in the below:
1. Yellowing effect can be produced.

2. Too much harmful for human health.
3. Can produce shade variation.
4. This process is difficult to control.

DIPON BUFT
5. Needed antichlor treatment.
6. Causes corrosion
7. It is one of the sources of environmental pollution.
Flow Chart of Dry Process in Garments Washing
L No. Process Procedure

It is the first process of dry process section in garments washing. Whisker is
done with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted
01 Whisker on plastic material.
Removing color from the surface of denim is called scrapping. Here, fabric is
02 Scrapping scrapped with different tools in order to get an used effect.
Tacking is done by using swift tag machine. In this process, Garments is folded
three or four times and tacked through folds. Then the garments is washed and
dried. Permanent fold appears after removal of tag pin. In this case, the inner of
the fold is dark due to less exposure of rubbing and chemicals. Faded effect
03 Tacking comeson the folded parts.
In order to achieve favorite vintage look, different destroying processes such as
grinding, abrasion, hole, scratching and needleeffect are used in dry process
04 Destroy/Tearing section.
P.P means potassium per manganate. P.P sprayed onto desired areas of garments
and P.P oxidizes indigo color. This process can be done before or after garments
washing process. Here, at first have to sprayed P.P, then it should be neutralized
05 P.P Spray to get final effect.
Here, resin chemical is used on whiskered areas to make the effect permanent.
At first, resin is sprayed all over of the whiskered garments with spray gun, then
whiskers are designed by folding the fabric. Finally resin sprayed garments are
06 3D put into oven and dry at high temperature for 30minutes.
Objects of Garments Washing:

Various types of objects and advantages have discussed in the below:
1. Starch materials present in the new fabrics of the new garments, which can be
removed by garments washing. As a result its feels soft during using the
garments.
2. After applying garments washing, garments soft feeling can be increased more.
3. Spots and dirt’s are removed from the garments by applying garments washing.
4. Unwashed garments contain too much shrinkage, but there’s no possibility of
further shrinkage after garments washing.
5. Washed garments could be wearing directly after purchasing from the store.
6. Fading effect is produced in the garments by applying garment washing which
enhance the beauty of garments.

DIPON BUFT
7. Fading effect can be produced in the specific area of the garments as per specific
design.
8. Different outlook of garments could be produced in the garments by applying
different garments washing techniques.
9. Similar outlook can be produced in the garments by applying different garment
washing techniques.
10. Initial investment cost to set-up a garment washing plant is comparatively lower
which helps to fulfill the requirements of buyer correctly.
11. Flow Chart of Dry Process in Garments Washing:
Whisker
↓
Scrapping
↓
Tacking
↓
Destroy/ Tearing
↓
P.P Spray
↓
3D
Limitations of Stone Wash:

Though stone wash has a lot of advantages but it carries some limitations, those are
1. Stone wash may cause back staining and re-deposition.

2. Stones can cause wear and tear effect on the garments.
3. Stones can damage the washing machine due to its higher abrasion.
4. Increase the labor cost to remove stone dusts from the finished garments.
5. Extra time needed to complete the whole process due to removing stone from the
garments.
6. Metal buttons and rivets of the garments can abraded due to use of stone and
may reduce the quality of garments.
Factors Affecting on Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) in Apparel Industry
1. Number of Operations:
Number of operations is an important factor for calculating standard allowed minutes
(SAM). If number of operations of an item is more, then standard allowed minuets
(SAM) will be higher number. Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for polo shirt is not
similar as basic T-shirt.

DIPON BUFT
2. Length of Seams:
If seam length is higher, then standard allowed minuets (SAM) will be higher. In the
other case, if seam length is shorter, then standard allowed minuets (SAM) also lower.
Length o seams is directly proportional to standard allowed minuets (SAM).
3. Type of fabrics:
Fabric types is one of the most important key factor which directly affects on standard
allowed minuets (SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) for denim fabrics is not similar
as knitted fabrics. In case of denim fabrics, standard allowed minuets (SAM) is more
than knitted items.
4. Stitching accuracy:
Stitching accuracy is another one which has huge impact on standard allowed minuets
(SAM). Standard allowed minuets (SAM) is not same for all types of stitching accuracy.
In case of hand stitching accuracy, standard allowed minuets (SAM) will more than
chain stitching.
5. Sewing technology:
Sometimes sewing technology affects on standard allowed minuets (SAM). Due to
using of new sewing technology, standard allowed minuets (SAM) can be increased.
Because, sewing operators are not habitual with new sewing technology. As a result,
he takes more times to complete the processes.
How to Grade Sewing Machine Operators?
It’s another sewing operator grading system followed in readymade garments sector.
Here, sewing operators are categorized according to the number of operations
performed by a sewing operator from the A, B and C grade operations. It also shows the
efficiency level of a sewing operator. Grading table has presented in the below:
SL
No. Grade Criteria
 All A grade operations,

01 A+  All C grade operations,
 Above 5 A grade operations,

02 A  All C grade operations,
 At least 2-3 A grade operations,

03 B  At least 4-5 B grade operations,
 All C grade operations,

DIPON BUFT

04 C  At least 4 C grade operations,
05 D  Trainee,
 Any B or C grade operations.
How to Calculate Sewing Time By Using Machine RPM?
Example:
Suppose, for a lock stitch sewing machine, machine RPM is 1500. How much time
needed to sew a 40” super imposed seam, where stitch per inch (SPI) is 10?
Solution:
Here,
Sewing machine RPM= 1500,

Seam length in inch= 40”,
Stitch per inch (SPI) = 10.
Now,
Machine cycle time or sewing time (in second),
= 16sec.
So, machine cycle time or sewing time is 16sec.
Note: During 16sec sewing time, no machine stopping occurred and this time is
calculated by ignoring all the other factors.
How to Calculate Minute Cost of Sewing Line in Apparel Industry?
Example for the formula number-01:
Suppose, in Nishat garments ltd. total salary of sewing line for one day is 10000taka,
no. of manpower’s for 20 machines is 30 and line efficiency is 50%, then calculate cost
per minute in 8 working hours of each sewing line for that garments.
Solution:
Here,

DIPON BUFT
Total salary of sewing line for one day = 10000 taka,
Total no. of manpower’s = 30,
Total working hours = 8,
Line efficiency= 50% = 0.5
Now,
Cost per minute of sewing line,
= 1.39 taka
So, cost per minute for each sewing line of nishat garments is 1.39 taka.
Example for the formula number-02:
Suppose, in Abonty fashion ltd. actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers is
15000, total garments produced per day is 400, where standard allowed minutes (SAM)
for the garments is 20. Then calculate cost per minute of each sewing line for that
garments.
Solution:
Here,
Actual salary per day of all the operators and helpers = 15000,
Total no. of garments produced = 400,
Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) for the garments = 20
Now,
Cost per minute of sewings line,
= 1.875 taka
So, Cost per minute of sewing line is 1.875 taka.
How to Calculate Sewing Line Capacity of an Apparel Industry?

DIPON BUFT
Example:
Suppose, in Abonty Fashions, a sewing line is running for producing full sleeve shirt
with 30 machines at 8hrs working day, where sewing line’s efficiency is 60% and worker
absent percentage is 5%.
Find out the sewing lines capacity for the above factory.
Here,
No. of sewing machines in the line= 30,

Workers absence percentage of that line= 5%,
Daily working hours of that factory= 8,
Line efficiency of that factory= 60%,
Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for full sleeve shirt= 25.
So, P.T.O
Sewing line capacity (In pcs),
= 328.32
=328pcs
So, sewing line’s capacity per day for the above factory is 328pcs

DIPON BUFT
How to Estimate Production Capacity of a Garment Factory?
Example:
Suppose, Noman Fashion Ltd. has 10 sewing lines, each sewing line has 20 machines.
They have to produce basic knitted polo shirt items at 8hrs working day, (where
machine-hr capacity is 1600hrs and line efficiency is 60%).
So, find out the production capacity of that factory.
Here,
Machine (hr) capacity per day= 1600hrs,

Line efficiency of garment factory= 60%,
Standard allowed minute (SAM) for knitted polo shirt= 20
So,
Production capacity (Pcs),
= 2880pcs
So, garments production capacity of the above factory is 2880pcs per day.
Example:
Let,
For a polo shirt garment,
 Standard allowed minutes (SAM) is-25 minutes,

 Number of operators in a working line is-20
 Number of hours running-production line work in a day- 8hrs
 Average line efficiency – 60%

DIPON BUFT
 Total break time including Launch, Tea and Others- 60 minutes
So, calculate the estimation of polo shirt garments production.
Solution:
Now, applying the above information in equation (2), we have-
Per day production (pc),
= 336 × 60%
= 201pcs
So, Estimation of polo shirt garments production per day is 201pcs.
How to Calculate Machine (hr) Capacity in Apparel Industry?

Example:
Suppose, Nishat Fashions Ltd. has 10 sewing lines where each sewing line has 20
machines and working hours per day for the factory is 8, then calculate the machine
capacity for that factory.
Solution:
Here,
No. of sewing line in that factory= 10

No. of machines in each sewing line= 20
Working hours per day= 8
So,
Machine capacity,
= No. of sewing line in that factory × No. of machines in each sewing line ×
Working hours per day
= 10 × 20 × 8
= 1600hrs.

DIPON BUFT
So, Machine (hr) capacity for the above garments factory is 1600hrs.
Relation of Production Planning and Control (PPC) with Other Departments

Production planning and control (PPC) plays an important role in garments
manufacturing business. It’s very good news that, maximum factories are now creating PPC
department. Production planning and control (PPC) has to build-up strong relationship with the
other departments to achieve maximum output from the export order.
relation of Production Planning and Control (PPC) with other departments:

Production planning and control (PPC) department has to connect with various
departments, those are mentioned in the below:
1. Top management,
2. Yarn department,
3. Knitting department,
4. Dyeing and washing department,
5. Garments merchandising department,
6. Commercial department,
7. Cutting department,
8. Stitching department,
9. Finishing and packaging department.
How to Estimate Line Efficiency of a Garment Production?

Example:
In Zara Fashion Ltd. a garment production line produced 300pcs Sweet shirt garments
in 45 Standard allowed minutes (SAM) by using 40 operators, where working hours was
8.
Now, estimate the lines efficiency for the mentioned garment production.
Solution:
Here,
Production output from the line- 300pcs
Standard allowed minutes (SAM) for Sweet shirt garments – 45
Total number of operators in the line – 40
Total working hours – 8hrs
Now, by using the following formula, industrial engineer can estimate easily the line’s
efficiency of the mentioned garment production.

DIPON BUFT
Line Efficiency (%),
= 70.3%
So, lines efficiency of the mentioned sweet shirt garments production stands at 70.3%
How to Calculate Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM or SMV) in Garments Industry?

Method-01:
In this case, SAM or SMV Calculation can be done by using synthetic data. At first
an industrial engineer has to fix an operation, for which he wants to estimate SAM or
SMV.
Here, he should stand near the m/c operator and follow the every working procedure for
the selected operation. He should note all the activities done by the operator (these
activities are called synthetic data collection). When all the activities of operator will
complete, then industrial engineer should follow the same activities of operator again to
check the noted activities that the note is ok or not.
Now, industrial engineer should list down all the activities of operator in sequentially and
refer the synthetic data for TMU (time measuring unit) values. Suppose, industrial
engineer got TMU value for that operation is 450. Now he should convert total TMU into
minutes, where (1TMU= 0.0006 minute). So for 450TMU= (450 × 0.0006) = 0.27minute.
This minute is termed as Basic time.
o, now from equation-01, we get,
SAM or SMV = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal

allowances)
= 0.27 + (0.27 × 10%) + (0.27 × 20%)
= 0.27 + 0.027 + 0.054
= 0.351minute
So, SAM or SMV value for that operation is 0.351 minute.
Method-02:
In this case, SAM or SMV Calculation can be done by using time study.
Here, industrial engineer should take a stop watch and stands near the m/c operator.
Capture cycle time for that operation (that he chosen early). Cycle time means “total
time needed to complete full operation”. He should be done this process consecutively

DIPON BUFT
at least for 5 cycle times. Then he should calculate mean cycle time by adding 5 cycle
times and divided those by 5. Finally industrial engineer gets the cycle time here. (Let,
cycle time here 0.50) Now, he should convert cycle times into basic time by multiplying
with “performance rating”.
So, Basic time = Cycle time × Performance rating ………………. (2)

Performance rating:
Performance rating is related with m/c operator. In which speed, operator completed his
duty. It’s determined by industrial engineer. Let, the operator performance rating was-
70%.
So, from equation (2), we get,

Basic time = 0.5 × 70% [Cycle time= 0.5]
= 0.35
So, basic time= 0.35
By using equation- (1), now we get,

SAM or SMV = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal
allowances)
= 0.35 + (0.35 × 10%) + (0.35 × 20%)
= 0.35+ 0.035 + 0.07
= 0.46 minute
So, SAM or SMV for that operation stands at 0.46 minute.
How to Estimate Operator Efficiency in Garments Industry?

Example:
In Noman Fashion Ltd. an operator was doing an operation of SAM 0.60 minute. In that
time he produced 400 pieces in an 8 hours working shift per day. Now calculate the
operators efficiency.
Solution:
Here,
Total number pieces made by the operator- 400pcs

SAM (Standard allowed minutes) of the operation (Cutting or Sewing) – 0.6minute
Total working hours in the machine- 8hrs
So, by putting all the information in the blow formula, an industrial engineer can
estimate or calculate the operator efficiency.

DIPON BUFT
Operator efficiency (%),
= 50%
So, operator efficiency stands at 50%.
Process Flow Chart of Industrial Engineering (IE)

Process Flow Chart of Industrial Engineering (IE):
Negotiation with garments merchandiser
↓
Garments analysis
↓
Make P.P meeting if all the required fabrics, trimmings and accessories are in
housed
↓
Production target
↓
Set machine layout
↓
Line setting
↓
Line balancing
↓
Continuous production meeting
↓
Collecting production data
↓
Preparing production report
↓
Production report analysis
↓
Report submit to factory manager

DIPON BUFT
All the above processes are discussed in the below table:

SL No. Process Procedure
It is the very first work of an industrial engineer. Here, he should
Negotiation with garments vastly discussed with garments merchandiser about the in-coming
01 merchandiser garments product.
Confirmed garments product is clearly analyzed here by industrial
02 Garments analysis engineer. It helps to complete rest of the processes very easily.
Here, P.P meeting should be organized if all the required fabrics,
trimmings and accessories are in housed and take all the pre-cautions
03 Make P.P meeting for the up-coming garments production.
Production target should set here according to factory capacity. It
04 Production target helps to respect the shipment date.
Machine layout is set here according to total processes needed to
05 Set machine layout complete a garment item.
In this process, actual line setting should be done to utilize the
garment workers properly. If it takes more time in line setting then
06 Line setting garments production will be decreased.
To minimize the number of work stations, cycle time, line balancing
is done here. Its a very important process to achieve desired
07 Line balancing production target.
Production meeting should be done here at regular interval. If any
Continuous production problem will arise during garments production, should take necessary
08 meeting actions to solve that.
Production data should be collected here for preparing production
09 Collecting production data report.
Here, total garments production report has prepared to analysis about
10 Preparing production report the whole production.
Garments production report is analyzed here from different points of
11 Production report analysis view.
Report submit to factory Finally garments production report have to submit into the factory
12 manager manager.
What is Industrial Engineering (IE) and Key Factors for It?
Definition of Industrial Engineering (IE):

Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering which is related with the optimization of
complex systems or processes. It is totally concerned with the improvement, development, and
implementation of integrated systems of people, money, information, knowledge, energy and it’s
also analysis as well as the mathematical, physical and social sciences together with the
principles and systems of engineering design to predict and assess the results to be obtained
from such types of systems. Industrial Engineering assigns certain systems such as floor

DIPON BUFT
layouts, personnel, organization, standard of time, wage rates, incentive payment plants to
control the quantity and specially quality of goods and services produced.
Industrial Engineering (IE) obeys the following contents:

1. Forecasting
2. Routing and Scheduling
3. Line Balancing
4. Break Even Analysis
5. PERT and CPM
6. Inventory Control
7. Materials Requirement Planning
8. Work Study
9. Plant Layout
10. Quality Analysis and Control
11. Process Capability
12. Graphical Method
13. Simplex Method
14. Transportation Model
15. Assignment Model
16. Queuing Model
17. Value Analysis for Cost
18. Wages Plan
19. Mass Production and
20. Others
Key Factors for an Industrial Engineer (IE):
An industry will achieve the maximum profit if an Industrial Engineer has the accurate
knowledge about the following matters and those are so important for meeting the right
quality of goods. Those are –
1. Education and Research

2. Management
3. Supply Chain
4. Technical Sales and Marketing
5. Military and Homeland Security
6. Energy
7. Public Services
8. Manufacturing
9. Finance, Banking and Service Industry
10. Defense and Aerospace
11. Information Technology and
12. Health Care

DIPON BUFT
Important Interview Question and Answer for Garment

Job (Part – 01)
1. What is clothing?
Ans. Clothing is one of the three basic needs of human being. Clothing is used for
covering human body or other bodies to fulfill or satisfy the requirements of those
bodies with the object of protection, decoration and identification.
2. What is Garment?
Ans: A garment is a piece of clothing.
3. What is apparel?
Ans: Clothes of a particular type when they are being sold in a shop. Apparel can
also include things like name tags, jewelry or other stuff you wear.
4. Why woolen garments used in cooler climate?

Ans. The general configuration of wool fibre is helical and this configuration
works as a wall for passing of cold or warm.
5. What is design or sketch?

Ans. In clothing industry design means determining the shape and cutting patterns
of garmentsaccording to it.
6. What id basic block or block pattern?

Ans. Block patterns are the main or basic patterns which are constructed with
definite and standard body measurement, but they do not possess any style or extra
attractiveness or any type of allowances.
7. What is a pattern?
Ans. It is the model of all components of garments on a hard paper board.
8. Why pattern is produced?

Ans.
 To make a set of templates of different components of garments.

DIPON BUFT
 To make a large amount of production at a time.
 To minimize wastage and cost of garments.
9. What is working pattern or production pattern?
Ans. These are made on the basic of block pattern or basic block. Each block
pattern is drawn orsketched on the hard paper board with the help of pencil. Then
the following allowances and positions are added-
 Sewing allowance
 Trimming allowance
 CBL
 CFL
 Button attaching position
 Button holing position
 Plate etc.
10. What is invoice?
Ans. It is one kind of documents which contains the information’s about selling
items. Normally there are two types of invoice-
 Proforma invoice- preliminary,

 Commercial invoice-finally.
11. Seam line/attaching point is marked by U or V notch? (yes/no)
Ans. Yes
12. How grain line is indicated/mentioned in patterns?

Ans. By arrow mark.
13. What is grain line?

Ans. It is the line, which is marked on the patterns of a garment and the line
indicates the warp yarn, as a result, when the pattern is placed in the marking paper
then the Grain line follow the warp yarn of fabric.
14. Grain line of pattern must be parallel of the fabric? (yes/no)

Ans. Yes
15. Define category?

DIPON BUFT
Ans. In garments export and import business a definite type of garments is
specified by a definitenumber which is called category.
16. What is approved sample?

Ans. The sample which is approved by the buyer is called approved sample.
17. What is counter sample?

Ans. The manufacturers produce several numbers of samples following the
approved sample which is known as counter samples. They facility the bulk
production or hung on production floor.
18. What do you mean by allowance?

Ans. In case of garments making some additional measurements are added with
standard bodymeasurement which is termed as allowances. This allowances is 1cm
or 1inch.there are two types of allowance-(I) Trimming allowance. (II) Sewing
allowances.
19. What is interlining?

Ans. A layer of fabric which is used between two layer of fabric to give the
particular area desired shape and to enhance the strength of that particular position
which is called interlining. e.g. collar, cuff.
20.What are the types of interlining?

Ans.
 Sewable interlining,
 Fusible interlining.
21. What do you mean by lining?
Ans. A layer of fabric which is used in the inner side of garments to increase the
comfort-ability of the garments which is called lining.e.g. suits, coats, ladies and
babies wear.
22. What do you mean by FDI?

Ans. FDI= Foreign direct investment. These types of investment directly come
from foreign country.

DIPON BUFT
23. What is overlocking or neatening?

Ans. The sewing process of cutting edge of the fabric. So that the slack yarn
cannot be opened.
24. What is seaming?
Ans. The attaching procedure of different components of garments.
25. What is stitch?

Ans. The unit of sewing or seam.
26. What is seam?

Ans. The line of sewing of one or more than one layers of fabric/the line of joining
of fabric.
27. What do you mean by trimmings or accessories?

Ans. Beside fabric the components which are needed to make a complete garments
termed astrimmings. e.g. Button, sewing thread, lining, interning etc.
28. What is ticket number?

Ans. It indicates the coarseness or fineness of a sewing thread.
29. What is L/C?

Ans. L/C means letter of credit. It is one kind of agreement between buyer and
seller.
30. What is pattern grading?

Ans. Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to
create large orsmall size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its
general shape and appearance. Ifbuyer requires different sizes, we would have to
grade the dimension. It may be S.L, X.L and XXL.
31. What are the method of grading?

Ans. Grading can be apply two method –(I) manual method,(II) computerized

DIPON BUFT
method.
32. Marker as a guideline for cutting?(yes/no)

Ans. Yes.
33. What is back taking?

Ans. During sewing we need to start or end it prior to 1cm or after 1cm
respectively to secure thesewing end. This is termed as back tacking.
34. What is bar tacking?

Ans. We continue sewing for several times within a vary short distance to increase
the load or strength of that particular portion which is termed as bar taking.e.g-
edge of pocket, belt loop, Fly piece etc.
35. What is blind stitch?

Ans. A particular type of stitch which is not visible from the face side of the
garments.
36. What do you mean by C.B.L and C.F.L?

Ans. C.B.L= center back line, C.F.L= center front line
37. What are disposable garments?

Ans. The garments which are used for one time only called disposable garments.
e.g. Medicalgarments.
38. What do you mean by Flap?

Ans. It’s the part of pocket which covers the pocket opening.
39. What is marker?

Ans. Marker is a thin paper which contain all necessary pattern pieces for all sized
for a particular style of garments. it’s a representation or drawing of the
arrangement of the identified materials.
40. Fabric width and length must be higher than the marker width and
length? (yes/no)

DIPON BUFT
Ans. Yes.
41. Grain line should be parallel to the warp direction in a woven fabric or the
Wales in a knittedfabric? (true/false)
Ans. True
42. What is formula of marker efficiency?

Ans. Marker efficiency= total area of pattern pieces in a marker/total area of
marker × 100%
43. The less the fabric wastage, the higher the marker efficiency?(true/false)
Ans. True.
44. The more the marker length, the higher the marker efficiency?
(True/false)
Ans. True.
45. What do you mean by garments size?

Ans. The size of garments can be expressed by two methods-
 Alphabetical expression e.g. S,M,L,XL,XXL

 Numerical expression e.g. 38,39,40,41,42(in cm or in inch)
46. Write down the feature of T-shirt?
Ans.
 Casual tops,
 Narrow neck line,
 Usually short sleeve,
 No collar
47. Write down the feature of polo shirt?
Ans. (I) Tops, (II) short/long sleeve,(III) collar,(IV) short button placket or neck
opening.
48. How can you divide all garments?

Ans. All types of garments can be divided mainly two groups –(I) Tops part, (II)

DIPON BUFT
Bottom part.
49. Write down the feature of pull oven / sweater?

Ans. (I) Warm shirt,(II) Long sleeve, (III) Waist band, (IV) Pull on over head.
50. Write down the feature of Tank-loop?

Ans. (I) Sleeve less pullover, (II) Used over a shirt (III) Warm shirt (IV) Waist
band, (V) Pull on over head.
51. Write down the feature of cardigan?

Ans. (I) Open front, (II) Fastened with a zip or button, (III) Waist band.
52. What do you mean by CAD?

Ans. CAD means computer aided design: In apparel industry CAD systems are
mainly used forgarments design, pattern preparation, pattern grading and marker
marking.
53. What do you mean by CAM?

Ans. CAM means computer aided manufacturing. It includes computerized sewing
machines, fabric spreading machines, cutting systems.
54. Write some important meaning?

Ans.
 CM= Cost of making

 CMT= Cost of making with trimmings
 FOB= Freight on boat
 C & F= Cost and freight
 CIF= cost, insurance and freight
 L/C= letter of credit
55. What is cloth spreading/laying?
Ans. To spread cloth as determined by needed quantity as per marking/ the smooth
laying out of fabric in superimposed layer of specified length.
56. What do you mean by fabric cutting?

Ans. To cut the cloth according to marker of patterns for sewing.

DIPON BUFT
57. What are the methods of fabric cutting?

Ans.
(A) Manual method
 Scissor
 Round knife
 Band knife
 Straight knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher & -Drill
(B) Computerized method
 Straight knife cutting

 Water jet cutting
 Leaser beam cutting
 Plasma torch cutting
58. What do you know about fusible interlining?
Ans. The interlining which is attaching to the garments component by the
application of temperature and pressure is called fusible interlining
59. How fusible interlining is manufactured?

Ans. By using a resin coating of thermoplastic materials on a piece of fabric.
60. For symmetrical fabric marker efficiency is high and less efficiency for
asymmetrical fabric? (True/false)
Ans. True.
61. The more large patterns and less small patterns reduce marker efficiency?
(True/false)
Ans. True.
62. For more small patterns, marker efficiency will be increased? (True/false)
Ans. True.

DIPON BUFT
63. What do you know about symmetrical fabric?

Ans. Fabric which can retain the same appearance in case of turning in 180° angle
called symmetrical fabric. e.g. solid dyed fabric.
64. What do you know about the asymmetrical fabric?

Ans. Asymmetrical fabric is those which can not retain the same appearance while
turning in 180° angle. E.g. pile fabric, brushed fabric etc.
65. What are the methods of marker making?

Ans.
 Manual,
 Computerized.
66. What are the wastage of marker?
Ans.
(I) Inside wastage

(II) Outside wastage
 Ends of ply losses (2-4) inch

 Loss of fabric ends
 Selvedge losses
 Purchase losses
67. What is sample?
Ans. The garment which is needed for bulk production is called sample garment.
68. What is sewing?

Ans. The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is
called sewing.
69. What are the basic components of sewing?

Ans.
 Needle

DIPON BUFT
 Throat plate
 Pressure foot
 Feed dogs
 Sewing thread and fabric.
70. Write some name of sewing defects?
Ans.
 Seam pucker
 Broken or open stitch
 Staggered stitch
 Slipped or skipped stitch
 Vertical stitch density.
71. What do you mean by seam puckering?
Ans. Stitching with unwanted gathering.
72. What do you mean by pressing and Finishing?

Ans. The process by which the unwanted crease and winkles are removed from the
garments and the outlook of the garments is improved as well.
73. Which iron is used for industrial purposes?

Ans. Steam irons.
74. What do you know about lings?

Ans. Lings is the measuring unit of button diameter. To measure the outer diameter
of button we use lings number. 1 ling = 1/40 inch = 0.025 inch = 0.636 mm
75. How many types of label?

Ans. There are mainly three types of label
 Main label,
 Size label,
 Care label.
The all other of label are called sub label.
76. What do you know about motif?

DIPON BUFT
Ans. The special component which is attached outside of the garment for
decorative purpose called motif. e.g. company name, trade mark or other symbols
can be written on the motif.
77. What do you know about dart and pleat ?

Ans.
 Dart = part of cloth is folded and stitched to slenderize it

 A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and
securing it in place or the pleat shows the form being folded and stitched.
78. How many types of woven fabric?
Ans. Three types – (I) yarn dyed (II) solid dyed(s/d) (III) Denim
79. Desizing is mandatory or obvious before washing (True/False)
Ans. True.
80. Why hot ash is necessary?

Ans. To clean the desize chemicals (introduction to cold water re-solidify the fat
and wax)
81. Why M:L is important?

Ans. Without m:l we can not determine the required amount of dyes, chemicals
and water duringdyeing, washing and other wet processing. That’s why m:l is
important.
82. What is the mechanism of producing fading effect in garments

manufacturing?
Ans. Three process of fading mechanism –
 Chemical action.
 Mechanical action
 Biological action.
83. How many types of mechanical abrasion in garments washing?
Ans. Three types –

DIPON BUFT
 Garment to garment.
 Garment to m/c
 Garment to solid material (e.g. stone)
84. How many types of chemical action in garment washing?
Ans. Three types-
 Regular(Bleach wash)
 Irregular(Acid wash)
 Local(p.p.spray, p.p.sponge)
85. What is the factor depends on action of washing?
Ans.
 Time
 Temperature
 Mechanical abrasion
 Chemical action
86. What do you mean by costing and pricing/?
Ans.
 Costing = Total consumption of garments without profit

 Pricing = costing with profit.
87. What do you know about back to back L/C opening?
Ans. For purchasing fabric and accessories against main L/C.
88. What is lead time in garments?

Ans. Time start from L/C opening or order receive to garments delivery is called
lead time.
 Lead time — local market = 45 days

 Foreign market = 90-120 days
89. What is stock lot?
Ans. When goods are made for buyer but not possible to shipping as a result goods
are stain at store. This goods are called stock lot .
90. How many parts of jacket?

DIPON BUFT
Ans. Three parts
 Upper part is called shell

 Inner part is called lining
 Middle part is called interlining.
91. Write down the other commercial name of interlining?
Ans. Padding / wedding/ Bedding / polyfil.
92. What types of garments are made from feather?

Ans. Overcoats,jackets,pillow,blanket etc.
93. What types of feather are used for making garments?

Ans. Duck chest feathers.
94. What do you mean by quality?

Ans. Quality is the difference between the products or It is the goodness or badness
in a product or the feather of a product which satisfy customers or end users.
95. What do you mean by label?

Ans. Label is an attached component of garment on which important information
regarding the garment are written or printed.
96. What do you mean by WWSC and RSWD?

Ans.
 WWSC = wash with similar color

 RSWD = Re shape whilst damp.
97. Which inspection system widely used in garment industry?
Ans. 4-points system.
98. What do you mean by TAP and AQL?

Ans.
 TAP = Total acceptable product in a lot

 AQL = Acceptable quality limit.

DIPON BUFT
99. What do you mean by core spun thread/yarn?
Ans. This thread /yarn has continuous filament polyester wrapped in cotton fibres.
100. What do you mean by OE & CE zipper?

Ans.
 OE zipper = open end zipper - use in jacket

 CE zipper = closed end zipper - use in baggage.
Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel and Merchandising Jobs

(Part-2)
101. The fiber which was popularly termed as ‘Artificial silk’ is
a) Nylon b) urena
c) arnol d) rayon
102. The finest quality wool is obtained from
a) Delaine b) merino
c) rambouillet d) lincoln
103. Shoddy is the term which indicates
a) reprocessed wool b) wool
c) reused wool d) none of the above
104. The fibre obtained from Angora goat is
a) alpaca b) mohair
c) cashmere d) angora

DIPON BUFT
105. Angora fibre is obtained from
a) angora goat b) angora rabbit
c) both d) none of these
106. Solution of sodium hydroxide at .................. percentage dissolves wool.
a) 2% b) 3% a.good, b.moderate, c.fair, d.poor
c) 4% d) 5%
107. ‘Queen of fibres’ is
a) cotton b) silk
c) rayon d) wool
108. The gummy substance which coats the silk fibre is

a) pectin b) glutin
c) sericin d) all the above
109. Tram silk is a
a) low - twist ply yarn b) medium twist ply yarn
c) high - twist ply yarn d) none of these
110. Organzine silk is a
a) low - twist ply yarn b) medium twist ply yarn
c) high - twist ply yarn d) none of these

DIPON BUFT
111. In silk, the process to where twist is inserted is termed as
a) Reeling b) throwing
c) Spinning d) degumming
112. Degumming is carried out to remove
a) pectin b) gluten
c) sericin d) none of the above
113. The resiliency of silk is
a) very good b) good
c) moderate d) poor
114. The bleach which tends to destroy silk is
a) chlorine b) nydrogen per oxide
c) d) all the above
115. Silk is affected by
a) alkalies b) acids
c) chlorine d) all the above
116. The actual fibre protein in silk is
a) sericine b) alanine
c) tyrosine d) fiborin

DIPON BUFT
117. Tyrex, employed in the manufacture of vehicle tyres is obtained from
a) rayon b) acetate
c) nytril d) vinyon
118. The generic name Azlon refers to
a) man - made cellulosic fibres b) man - made protein fibres
c) polyamides d) none of the above
119. Azlons gave off disagreeable odor when wet because were made out of
a) Chemicals b) food sources
c) Animal hair d) animal secretion
120. Ardil was made from the protein in
a) casein b) soya bean
c) Peanut d) corn
121. In Nylon 6, 6 the numbers 6 and 6 refers to the number of
a) Amide b) nitrogen
c) Oxygen d) carbon
122. Polymerization of caprolactam produces
a) Nylon 6, 6 b) nylon 6

DIPON BUFT
c) Nylon 6, 10 d) none of the above
123. ‘Brooke brothers’ is the example of the brand name of.......
a) Jeans b) suit
c) Sports for women d) rain coats
124. ‘Bali’ is the example or the brand name for
a) Sportswear b) women’s intimate apparel
c) Suits d) pants
125. ‘Esprit’ is the example of the brand name for ................
a) junior’s sportswear b) rain coat
c) Suits d) wools
126. ‘London fog’ in the example of the brand name for .............
a) suits b) sports dress
c) rain coats d) intimate wear
127. Example of private labels
a) j.c.penny’s Worthington b) hunt club
c) The gap’s d) all the above
128. ..................... is the copy or near copy of a design under a different brand
name

DIPON BUFT
a) Private labels b) licensing
c) Knockoffs d) counterfeit
129. .................. are fakes or copies of currently popular branded labels.
a) Branded labels b) counterfeit goods
c) Licensing d) knockoff
130. This type of labeling suggest to consumers the suitability of a garment for
their body dimensions
a) Wash care labeling b) brand labeling
c) Size labeling d) country of origin labeling
131. This is a key factor in the production, marketing, buying and selling of
RTW apparel
a) Quality b) aesthetic performance
c) Intrinsic attributes d) attractiveness
132. The French term for ready - to - wear is ...................
a) Boutique b) pret - a - porter
c) Couturier d) haute couture
133. .................. refers to high quality clothing custom made or made to

measure, for a specific individual
a) Couture (kootur) b) pret - a - porter

DIPON BUFT
c) Liz Claiborne d) value priced
134. Couture clothing literally means in French
a) Designer clothing b) private labels
c) Mass production d) fine sewing
135. .................. is a comparable term for high quality, custom made men’s
suits, usually from London
a) Ready - to - wear b) private labels
c) Bespoke c) designer’s clothing
136. .................. is the inter face between an organization and its customers
a) customer’s satisfaction b) marketing
c) Fashion forecast d) product assortment
137. ............... that support the choices of style direction, color, fabric and
pattern also be presented.
a) sloper b) sourcing
c) Story boards d) drafting
138. ............. is the process of estimating and then determining the total cost of
producing garment.
a) Merchandising b) manufacturing
c) Costing d) marketing

DIPON BUFT
139. Dyed color samples also called........................
a) strike offs b) shade brands
c) Shade approval d) lab dips
140. ................ refers to how well the garment confirms to the three -
dimensional human body.
a) Quality b) fitting
c) Inspection d) customer
141. The.......................... Consists of all the sizes of graded patterns super

imposed on one another.
a) Graded nest b) computerized grading
c) Marker making d) CAD - systems
142. Black lines and spaces read by a laser beam; used to electronically
identity a product
a) Bar tack b) brand
c) bar code d) Chroma
143. Garments having two legs, called
a) Upper torso b) bifurcated garments
c) Bagging d) bespoke
144. Basic pattern used to produce a basic fitted garment

DIPON BUFT
a) sloper b) torso
c) Body sizes d) making
145. Equal tension on needle, bobbin and / or looper threads
a) Balanced tension b) stitch density
c) Seam strength d) sew ability
146. Temporary stitches, also means
a) Back stitch b) over lock
c) Basting d) feed off the arm
147. Wet process using color - removing agents
a) Bedding b) barcode
c) Back tack d) bleaching
148. Seam made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges
a) Run and fell seam b) over lock seam
c) Bound seam d) French seam
149. Stiff plastic strips sewn to garment seams to add shape and support
a) Boning b) canvas
c) Fusible inter lining d) buckram
150. Annual gathering of approval manufacturers in Atlanta

DIPON BUFT
a) Bobbin show b) fashion show
c) Trade show d) brand show
151. Narrow bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges
a) Poplin b) bias facing
c) Alpaca d) canvas
152. Two distinct fabrics glued together as one
a) Canvas b) hair canvas
c) Heavy fabric d) bonded fabric
153. Intensity of color - brightness versus dullness
a) vibgyor b) hue
c) Chroma d) magenta
154. Pictorial representation of refurbishing instructions
a) Care symbol b) country of origin
c) fiber content d) size
155. Performance advantage that results from the garments physical features
a) Aesthetic look b) durability
c) Buying benefit d) comfort ability

DIPON BUFT
156. Tunnel of fabric through which elastic or a draw string is threaded to
provide shape to the garment
a) Boning b) casing
c) Cord d) braid
157. Inter looped stitch in also known as
a) Lock stitch b) over lock stitch
c) Chain stitch d) French seam
158. Seam that has split apart because the stitches have broken
a) Skipped stitch b) broken seam
c) Seam grain d) puckering
159. Style that takes decades to move through the whole fashion cycle
a) Classic b) modern
c) Traditional d) formal
160. Diamond shaped symbols used for accurate joining of pieces
a) Awl b) bodkin
c) Notches d) magic tape
161. Heavy outer line on pattern piece is the
a) Circles b) cutting line

DIPON BUFT
c) Notches d) small arrows
162. Straight line ending in arrow heads
a) Grain line markings b) hemline
c) Darts d) seam line
163. The extra amount of garment looseness is called
a) Measurement b) wearing ease
c) Proportion d) dis - proportion
164. A cuff that is cut doubles the width of a standard cuff, exposing the
facing
a) Shirt cuff b) lapped cuff
c) French cuff d) fusing
165. A cuff that has one end projecting from the placket edge
a) French cuff b) lapped cuff
c) Blouse cuff d) single cuff
166. Three or four hand stitches in the same spot to hold two pieces of fabrics
together.
a) Mitering b) lining
c) Over tacking d) inter facing
167. Suits, tuxedos, over coat, top coat and separate trousers for business and

DIPON BUFT
evening wear is called
a) Sportswear b) tailored clothing
c) Work wear d) furnishings
168. “Furnishings” include the following item
a) Hosiery b) ski jacket
c) Tennis shorts d) wallets
169. Sportswear comprises of
a) Sweaters b) pant
c) cuff links d) wallets
170. Scarves, gloves, jewelry such as cuff links and eyewear come under the
title or
a) Active sportswear b) furnishing
c) Accessories d) tailored clothing
171. Polymerization of podscalcium produces
a) Nylon 6 b) nylon 6, 6
c) Nylon 12 d) nylon 3
172. The formation of tiny balls of fiber on the surface of the cloth is
a) Filing b) balling

DIPON BUFT
c) Raising d) pilling
173. Body armor and protective clothing are made from
a) Nylon b) ardil
c) Kevlar d) vinyl
174. Nomex is a
a) Nylon b) ardil
c) Aramid d) vinyon
175. Dacron and terrene belong to
a) Nylon b) aramid
c) vinyon d) polyester
176. Polyester, which does not undergo the process tend to shrink at elevated
temperatures
a) Mercerized b) texturized
c) Heat set d) tentered
177. Polyester is resistant to
a) weak alkalis b) weak acids
c) Strong acid at room temperature d) all the above
178. Mostly crochet and knitting yarns are made up of

DIPON BUFT
a) Acrylic b) wool
c) Silk d) jute
179. The natural mineral fiber is
a) Glass b) asbestos
c) Carbon d) none of the above
180. The man - made mineral fiber is
a) Asbestos b) cotton
c) arnel d) none of the above
181. Glass fiber is made from
a) Silica b) limestone
c) Soda ash and borax d) all the above
182. The process by which either solid colors or prints can be applied to the
glass fibers is
a) Dyeing b) printing
c) coronizing d) painting
183. Which of the following is a matrix fibre composed of 50% poly vinyl
chloride and 50% polyvinyl alcohol?
a) cord élan b) asbestos
c) arnel d) none of the above

DIPON BUFT
184. Graphite is the term when the carbon percent is
a) 90 b) 95
c) 97 d) 99
185. The ....................fibres are black in colour and have a silky sheen
a) glass b) carbon
c) asbestos d) arnel
186. Fibres which change colour are
a) dexon b) chameleon fibres
c) cord élanfibers d) polychromatic fibers
187. The cloth straight from the loom is
a) Raw goods b) finished fabric
c) Gray fabric d) none of the above
188. Thermoplastic property is exhibited by
a) orlon B) rayon
c) Cotton d) silk
189. The two adjacent silk filament fibers extruded from the silk worm are
a) fiber b) ply yarn

DIPON BUFT
c) brims d) braids
190. A process by which natural fibers are sorted, separated and partially
aligned
a) combing b) grading
c) ginning d) carding
191. A process by which natural fibers are sorted and straightened is
a) Combing b) grading
c) Ginning d) carding
192. Cotton fibers that are too short for yarn or fabric manufacturing
a) Tow b) lint
c) Linters d) fibers
193. A bast fibre obtained from agare plant is
a) Sisal b) jute
c) Sunny d) kapok
194. Short ends of silk fibers used in making rough, textured spun yarns or
blends often termed as waste silk is
a) short fiber b) noel
c) Fiber d) none of the above
195. The textile fiber made from tetra fluroethylene monomer is

DIPON BUFT
a) tetlon b) tetran
c) teflon d) tetraiene
196. Spun yarns are composed of
a) staplefibres b) filament fibres
c) tow d) thread
197. Smooth - surfaced yarn spun from long - staple evenly combed wool
fibres is
a) woof yarns b) waffle
c) wale d) worsted yarn
198. Ceramic fibres are made from
a) aluminiumsillicate b) sodium sillicate
c) potassiumsillicate d) sodium hydroxide
199. The fibres composed of amino acids that have been formed into
polypeptide chains are
a) cellulosic b) protein
c) minerals d) acetate
200. Wool taken from the hides of slaughtered animals is called
a) clip wool b) fleece wool

DIPON BUFT
c) pulled wool d) all the above
Key Answers of Above Questions:
101. d) rayon
102. b) merino
103. c) reused wool
104. b) mohair
105. b) angora rabbit
106. d) 5%
107. b) silk
108. c) sericin
109. a) low twist ply yarn
110. b) medium twist ply yarn
111. b) throwing
112. c)sericin
113. c) moderate
114. a) chlorine

DIPON BUFT
115. d) all the above
116. d) fibrocin
117. a) rayon
118. b) man made protein fibers
119. b) food sources
120. c) peanut
121. d) carbon
122. d) none of the above
123. b) suits
124. b) women’s intimate apparel
125. a) juniors sports wear
126. c) rain coat
128. c) knock offs
129. b) counter feit goods
130. c) size labeling
131. a) quality
132. b) pret - a- porter

DIPON BUFT
133. a) couture
134. d) fine sewing
135. c) bespoke
136. b) marketing
137. c) story board
138. c) costing
139. d) lab dips
140. b) fitting
141. a) graded nest
142. c) barcode
143. b) bifurcated garments
144. a) sloper
145. a) balanced tension
146. c) basting
147. d) bleaching
148. c) bound seam
149. a) boning

DIPON BUFT
150. a) bobbin show
151. b) bias facing
152. d) bounded fabric
153. c)chroma
154. a) care symbol
155. c) buying benefit
156. b) casing
157. c) chain stitch
158. b) broken seam
159. a) classic
160. c) notches
161. b) cutting line
162. a) grain line markings
163. b) wearing ease
164. c)french cuff
165. b) lapped cuff
166. c) over tacking
167. b) tailored clothing

DIPON BUFT
168. a) hosiery
169. a) sweaters
170. c) accessories
171. c) nylon 12
172. d) pilling
173. c)kevlar
174. c) aramid
175. d) polyester
176. c) heat set
178. a) acrylic
179. b) asbestos
180. d) none of the above
182. c)coronizing
183. a) cordelam
184. d) 99

DIPON BUFT
185. b) carbon
186. b) chameleon fibres
187. c) gray fabric
188. a) orlon
189. c)brins
190. d) carding
191. a) combing
192. c) linters
193. a) sisal
194. b) noil
195. c) Teflon
196. a) staple fibres
197. d) worsted yarn
198. a) aluminium silicate
199. b) protein
200. c) pulled wool
Terms of Apparel Export Business:

1. FOB – Free on Board

DIPON BUFT
2. CFR – Cost and Freight
3. C&F – Clearing and Forwarding
4. CIF – Cost Insurance and Freight
5. CM – Cost of Manufacturing
6. CMT – Cost of Manufacturing and Trim
7. FCL – Full Container Load.
8. L/C – Letter of Credit
9. LCL – Less Container Load.
10.DAT – Delivery and Terminal.
11.DAP – Delivery and Port.
12.CFS – Container Freight Station.
13.FOA – Free on Air
14.DDU – Delivery Duty Unpaid.
15.POD – Port of Discharge.
16.POD – Proof of Delivery.
17.POL – Port of Landing.
18.POL – Port of Loading.
19.ETA – Estimate Time of Arrival.
20.ETD – Estimate Time of Departure.
21.GSP – Generalized System of Preferences.
22.MAWB – Master Air Way Bill.
23.HAWB – House Air Way Bill.
24.FFU – Forty Fit Equivalent
25.TFU – Twenty Fit Equivalent
26.PC – Pont Cash.
27.CO – Country of Origin
28.GOH – Garments on Hanger.
29.FPC – Flat Pack Container.
30.CPT – Carriage Paid to.
31.CY – Container Yard.
32.CBM – Cubic Metter.
33.NVOCC – Non Vassal Operating Common Carrier.
34.DDP – Delivery Duty Paid.

DIPON BUFT
Give Your answer in your own Way
Interview Board Formal Question

1. What is your Future plan??
2. In What type of position are u most feeling interested??
3. Why do u think u would like to work for the company?
4. What job have u held? How are they obtained? Why did u leave?
5. Why did u choose this particular field of work?
6. What do u know about our company??
7. What salary would u expect to receive for this job?( Its answer give like a
fresher not giving an experienced person)??
8. Do u prefer any geographical location??
9. How much money u hope to earn at the age of 25?
10.What personal characterestics are necessary for success in your chosen
field?
11.Do prefer working with others or by yourself??
12.What kind of boss do u prefer??
13.What interest you have about our product & service?
14.How long do u expect to work??
15.Do u like routine work?
16.Do u like regular hours??
17.What is major strength/ Weakness??
18.Define Co-Operation??
19.Do u demand affection?
20.Do u have an analytical mind??
21.How do u feel about supervising others? Why?
22.How do u feel about authority?
23.What is your idea of challenging work??
24.How do u feel about working in an un-structured environment ?
25.How do feel increasing your job responsibilities?
THANK YOU
Best of Luck

DIPON BUFT
Interview Board Formal Question

26.What is your Future plan??
27.In What type of position are u most feeling interested??
28.Why do u think u would like to work for the company?
29.What job have u held? How are they obtained? Why did u leave?
30.Why did u choose this particular field of work?
31.What do u know about our company??
32.What salary would u expect to receive for this job?( Its answer give like a
fresher not giving an experienced person)??
33.Do u prefer any geographical location??
34.How much money u hope to earn at the age of 25?
35.What personal characterestics are necessary for success in your chosen
field?
36.Do prefer working with others or by yourself??
37.What kind of boss do u prefer??
38.What interest you have about our product & service?
39.How long do u expect to work??
40.Do u like routine work?
41.Do u like regular hours??
42.What is major strength/ Weakness??
43.Define Co-Operation??
44.Do u demand affection?
45.Do u have an analytical mind??
46.How do u feel about supervising others? Why?
47.How do u feel about authority?
48.What is your idea of challenging work??
49.How do u feel about working in an un-structured environment ?
50.How do feel increasing your job responsibilities?

DIPON BUFT
INDUSTRAIL ENGNEERING QUESTION
How do you mean by Efficiency? How do you calculate line efficiency?

What would be the Target efficiency of a line?
How do you calculate Factory efficiency?
What is Productivity?
Operator productivity and M/c productivity is a ratio or percentage
Prepare an OB of a basic men’s shirt.
Folders and attachments used in shirt making?
How to set target of a critical operation?
Do you know about costing?
Will ask question on basic concept on Lean Manufacturing
What achievements can you boast of in your career?

How will you improve on productivity on a line?
Ask him about his computer know how (ERP and Excel).
How many machines has he handled?
Make him calculate SAM and target for a garment.
What should be the time taken to set a polo line?
What was your job profile in previous company? Which is the best method to know
factory performance - Productivity or Cost per SAM?
Rakesh Kumar, IE Auditor, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, New Delhi
What is the basic difference between an IE and a Production Person?

What kind of work other than production you can do which will give the benefit to the
company?
Give me the example of work which has been done by you only (Creative Work)?
How skill matrix will help in Production?
What should be the throughput time of average style (SAM 25-35)?
How stickering can be removed from the garment?
Do you know any alternate for the magic pen used for marking?
Abhishek Goel, Assistant Manager, Leadtec Div, CGS Inc.

DIPON BUFT
How would you deskill operations in a garment? What improvements world you suggest
on a sewing floor?
Do you know SMV calculation method? Show me how to determine SMV of a garment?
SOP of a particular department (sewing and industrial Engg.)
Prepare operation bulletin of a garment (I provide sample of a garment i.e. Bra that we
make)
Name some basic folders and attachments and their usage?
Can you train an operator?
Are you trained GSD practitioner?
Can you sew machine? What types of machine you can handle?
How do you analysis a line? Or How you will find improvement potential in a line?
Ram Chandra Das, Factory Manager, Copper Co., Ltd, Bangladesh
What is Industrial Engineering? What do you mean by Work Study?

What is Pitch time?
What is line actual efficiency? Write the formula.
How do you calculate target for the line
Garment operation break down (approximate SAM, Machine and Target)
How many burst a seam required
How do you balance a line?
Name some latest/special sewing machines?
Basic attachments and use of those attachments (operation name)
Thread consumption ratios for different machines or stitch classes
Manpower calculation method
Before going for an interview/insight thinking when you’re

on session:
 Don’t be panic on getting the job while you’re on interviews.
 Be positive in thinking & try to feel for the entire session very lightly to grow your
confidence.
 But be aware that you’re presenting yourself, so your any unusual manner can abuse your
personality to market.
 Be formal in manner & approach, not only in dress-up.

DIPON BUFT
 Try to think that whichever you know this is right & you have to establish this.
 Try to use simply “no” at your answer, don’t try to answer any point on which you’re not
confident enough.
 Be honest & try to expose the real facts otherwise you will fall on perplexing situation with
your false answer.
Covering the questions at interviews:
 Please describe/introduce yourself in brief.
--Highlight your present work/responsibility, educational & personal back ground
(family/home district) in a couple of sentence.
 Why did you choose merchandising as your profession?
--You should say valid/logical reason behind.
 How do you manage your assigned work/responsibility?
--Should answer on a summarized point, avoid lengthy explanation.
 How do you keep your record for daily follow-up/tracking?
 What are the sampling process?
--As example: development sample, fit sample, PP sample, production/gold seal sample.
 What are the mostly used commercial & shipping terms?
--i.e; FOB, C&F, CIF, L/C at sight, deferred, PI, CI, BL, HAWB etc
 What are the lead-time of your product?
--You have to answer it based on your product. This is variable like 60 days for knit basic
tee/vest, 95 to 100 days for denim/woven bottom etc..
 What do you mean by T&A plan or critical path & do you think this is necessary for your
order follow-up?
--You have to answer this based on your own experience/approach of working. But as per
my understanding- this is really very necessary tools as it is total framework for your daily
follow-up process which includes your planning/forecast & working towards hitting the plan
for keeping your order on track.
 How do you define a successful PP meeting?
--To cover up all the necessary discussion on comments, sampling, production plan,
forecasting possible issues. And to make sure that all relevant production, QA team has
clear understanding on everything.
 What do you mean by trim sheet/BOM? Or how do you take your order
specification/clarification?
--Based on development records, you should make queries on all the points (fabrication,
accessories, styling/fitting, color, approval reference, packing/folding reference) & take
confirmation/understanding from your respective buyer.
 What are the necessary points for costing?
--Fabrication/relevant yarn count, consumption, knitting price, dyeing price, accessories
cost, print/embroidery/wash/any other embellishment cost, size ratio, quantity, fabric &
trims source, commercial, testing or any other charge, CM (cost of making), lead-time of
product.
 Interviewer can show you some product to ask on price, lead-time, fabrication,
print/embroidery/wash/any other embellishment, CM/SMV value?
 Interviewer will ask you on fabric lead-time, accessories lead-time, transit time for some
imported fabric, yarn, accessories.

DIPON BUFT
 What are the folding or packaging process?
--Flat pack, shirt fold, roll pack, hanging method etc.
 Write a mail to manage one-week extension from buyer?
 How do you manage your customer for any approval (based on any particular case like fit
rejection, PP rejection or any other submission rejection)?
 How do you plan yourself for best adoption of new customer/account?
 What types of testing parameter your existing customer follows for base & bulk?
 How do you take commercial acceptance on testing?
 How do you get confirmed of care symbol/instruction for your product?
 You need to be aware on testing parameter for what types of product?
--It’s also variable based on your product range. But for an idea like shrinkage/recovery for
rib fabric(specially on lower gsm), pilling for CVC, wash fastness for pigment coverage
AOP, wash fastness for lurex content fabric etc…
 What are the required percentage of fabric wastage which needs to be considered while
booking?
 What is the usual width of woven fabric? Or what is the open width for knit fabric (S/J, rib
or any other)?
 Can you please tell about some renowned supplier for woven/denim fabric?
 Do you know the change of weight after wash (both for woven/denim & knit fabrics)?
 What will be the per day output of a product (knit basic tee shirt, vest, fleece hoodie,
woven/denim bottoms for men’s or any other kids item or anything)?
 What are the types of zipper? Or how do you measure button size? Or anything on
accessories?
 Types of wash, print, embroidery (varies from case to case)?
 What are the type of poly/carton- you’re using for your consignment?
 What are the type of vessel? i.e; feeder, mother vessel
 Can you please share some DC/Port name for UK/any other importer country?
 How do you manage yourself in critical situation like as air shipment at your company’s
cost or any other alarming issue?
 How do you avoid issues at your working area?
--I think to flag out the thing at very beginning & to put the thing on table not keeping on
pocket at your own risk.
 How do you define risk assessment?
IQ views/general questions:
 What is the total export value from BD garments on last year?
 What do you mean by brand?
--It’s like an identity to expose through a motto. This answer can be variable & to be as your
own thinking.
 What are the top class fashion brand for all around the world i.e; Europe, USA, UK?
 Do you think you as perfect/confident & what’s your strength behind to make you perfect
than others?
 What’s your thinking about BD garments trade or what do you think of this trade- after ten
years?
 What do you want you to see you after 5 years? Or what’s your future planning? Or what’s
your motto of life?

DIPON BUFT
 Do you think you as positive thinking person? & why?
This is simply an overview of interview- from my point of view. You may go through the
same to match with your ideas. As I believe that everyone has their own thinking to
present themselves or make them ready for any challenge. I will be obliged if someone
can get help from this writing, thanks in advance & wishing for all of your better future.
Lean Manufacturing:
Lean Manufacturing – A way to eliminate waste and improve efficiency in a manufacturing
environment. Lean focuses on flow, the value stream and eliminating ‘muda’, the Japanese
word for waste. Lean manufacturing is the production of goods using less of everything
compared to traditional mass production: less waste, human effort, manufacturing space,
investment in tools, inventory, and engineering time to develop a new product. Lean is the
systematic approach to identifying and eliminating waste through continuous improvement by
flowing the product or service at the pull of your customer in pursuit of perfection.
Origin:
During II world war, the economic condition of Japan was heavily destroyed. They had
limited infrastructure, inventories, machine & materials. So they decided to produce a
small batch of products which would reduce inventories; it means they would need less
capital to produce the same product. Lean manufacturing is a management philosophy
derived mostly from the Toyota Production System(TPS) because Toyota Motor
Company’s Eiji Toyoda and Taiichui Ohno are given credit for its approach and
innovations, this system identified as "lean" only in the 1990s.
Procreation:
Lean was generated from the Just-in-time (JIT) philosophy of continuous and forced
problem solving Just-in-time is supplying customers with exactly what they want when
they want it With JIT, supplies and components are “pulled” through a system to arrive
where they are needed when they are needed. Just in time (JIT) is a production strategy
that strives to improve a business' return on investment by reducing in-process
inventory and associated carrying costs. Just in time is a type of operations
management approach which originated in Japan in the 1950s. It was adopted by
Toyota and other Japanese manufacturing firms, with excellent results: Toyota and
other companies that adopted the approach ended up raising productivity significantly.
Areas of Lean:
 Quality- Increasing quality.
 Cost- Reducing cost.
 Productivity- Increasing productivity.
 Safety and morale- Ensuring safety.
Waste elimination:
Waste is anything that happens to a product that does not add value from the
customer’s perspective. Products being stored, inspected or delayed, products waiting

DIPON BUFT
in queues, and defective products do not add value. There are seven major types of
waste –
 Overproduction – Producing more than the customer orders or producing too early.
Inventory of any kind is usually wastage. TPS pays particular attention to the waste of
overproduction.
 Queues – Time is a limited resource. In the manufacturing world, time is money. Customer
requirements are calculated to the second. Idle time, storage, and waiting are wastes.
 Transportation – Moving material between plants, between work centers, and handling
more than once is waste.
 Inventory – Preventing unnecessary inventory is critical to the success of the Toyota
Production System. The smooth, continuous flow of work through each process ensures that
excess amounts of inventory are minimized unnecessary raw material, work-in process
(WIP), finished goods, and excess operating supplies are wastes.
 Motion –Motion is the movement of equipment or people. Wasted motion occupies time
and energy. Ideally all unnecessary movements or actions are eliminated from the work
process.
 Over-processing – It refers to the works performed on product that adds no value. Over
processing is as wasteful as insufficient processing. Employees must learn to identify over
processing waste.
 Defective product – The waste of correction is a result of poor internal quality. Producing
defective products or products requiring repairs adds the cost of extra manpower, materials,
facilities and conveyance measures.
Advantages of Lean Manufacturing:
 Increased overall productivity.
 Reduced amount of floor space required for production.
 Reduced manufacturing lead time.
 Improved flexibility to react to changes in production flow.
 Improved quality of the product.
Disadvantages of Lean Manufacturing:
 Difficulty involved with changing processes to implement lean principals.
 Long term commitment required for permanent change.
 Very risky process in case of supply chain issues while changing over to lean.
House of Lean:
As a business philosophy, Lean can be envisioned as a house. The House of Lean is
formed by a foundation (Stability), two pillars (Just in Time and Jidoka), and a roof
(Perfection). Many of the tactical components of Lean have been placed within these
separate areas to give you a convenient frame of reference and an understanding of
where certain tools fall within the vast arena of Lean.

DIPON BUFT
House of Lean
Role of Lean for Producers:
Role of Lean for Customers:

DIPON BUFT
Lean Manufacturing Tools:

Lean manufacturing in a factory is maintained by several tools. The number and type of
tool depends on the product that is to be produced and production system of the
product. Most important tools are –
 5S
 Andon
 Bottleneck Analysis
 Continuous Flow
 Gemba (The Real Place)
 Heijunka (Level Scheduling)
 Hoshin Kanri (Policy Deployment)
 Kanban (Pull System)
 Cellular manufacturing
 Jidoka (Autonomation)
 Just-In-Time (JIT)
 Kaizen (Continuous Improvement)
 KPI (Key Performance Indicator)
 Muda (Waste)
 Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE)
 PDCA (Plan, Do, Check, Act)
 Poka-Yoke (Error Proofing)
 Root Cause Analysis
 Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED)
 Six Big Losses
 SMART Goals
 Standardized Work
 Takt Time
 Total Productive Maintenance (TPM)
 Value Stream Mapping
Lean Manufacturing Tools Suitable for Garments Factory :
 5S- Strategy for creating a well-organized, smoothly flowing manufacturing process.

DIPON BUFT
Process Control
 Total productive maintenance
 Poka-yoke
 SMED
 Graphical work instructions
 Visual control
 Continuous improvement
 Line stop
 SPC
 5S housekeeping
Metrics
 On-time delivery
 Process lead-time
 Total cost
 Quality yield
 Inventory (turns)
 Space utilization
 Travel distance
 Productivity
Logistics
 Forward plan
 Mix-model manufacturing
 Level loading
 Workable work
 Kanban pull signal
 A,B,C parts handling
 Service cell agreements
 Customer/supplier alignment
 Operational rules

DIPON BUFT
Some Important Formula & Example for IE
1. Standard Pitch Time (S.P.T) = Basic Pitch Time (B.P.T) + Allowances (%)
 GSD = (Man power * Work hour) / Target

 SMV = Basic time + (Basic time * Allowance)
 Basic time = Observed time * Rating
 Observed time = Total Cycle time / No of cycle
 Rating = (Observed Rating * Standard rating) / Standard rating
 Efficiency = (Earn minute * Available minute) * 100
 Earn minute = No of Pc’s (Production) * Garments SMV
 Available minute = Work hour * Manpower
 Organization Efficiency = (Basic pis time / Bottle neck time) * 100
 Basic pis time = Total GMT SMV / Total Manpower
 UCL = Basic pis time / Organization Efficiency
 LCL = 2 * Basic pis time – UCL
 Capacity = 60 / Capacity time in minute
 Cycle Time = 60 / Team target
 Capacity Achievable = Capacity * Balance
 Daily output = Work hour / SMV
 Factory capacity = (Work hour / SMV) * Total worker * Working day * Efficiency
 CPM = (Total over head cost of the month / No of SMV earners * Work minutes)
*Efficiency
 Required no of operator = Target daily output / Daily output per operator
Example:

DIPON BUFT
1. Efficiency = Output/Input
= (SMV*Product Quantity) /
(Worker*Working Hour*60)
= [(38.50*700) /
(60*10*60)]*100
= 74% (Line Efficiency)
Here,
SMV=38.50
Working hour=10
No. of worker=60
2. Target/hour = (60/SMV)*Efficiency%
= (60/0.85)*70%
= 50 pcs/hour
Here,
SMV=0.85
Efficiency=70%
3. Target/line = [(No of worker*working

hour*60)/SMV]*Efficiency%
= [(75*10*60)/23.5]*60%
= 1150 pcs
Here,
No of workers=75
Working hours=10
SMV=23.5
Efficiency=60%
4. Required days for the schedule = Total

order quantity/Average target
=
50000/2000
=25
Here,
Average target=2000

DIPON BUFT
Order quantity=50000
5. CM of garments= (Total Production)/(no

of worker*work hour)
= 250000/(1500*10)
=1.66 BDT
Here,
Total Production=250000
No of workers= 1500
6. Factory capacity = [(Work hour*total

workers*working
day*60)/SMV]*Efficiency
=
[(10*1500*26*60)/14.13]*55%
= 828025 pcs/month
7. Line GSD/day = (Manpower*work

hour)/target
= (50*10*60)/900
= 33
Tools of Industrial Engineering:

The main aim of tools are to improve the productivity of the organization by optimum
utilization of organizations resources: men, materials, and machines. The major tools
used in industrial engineering are:
1. Production planning and control.

2. Inventory control.
3. Job evaluation.
4. Facilitates planning and material handling.
5. System analysis.
6. Linear programming.
7. Simulation.
8. Network analysis (PERT, CPM).
9. Queuing models.
10. Assignment.
11. Sequencing and transportation models.

DIPON BUFT
12. Games theory and dynamic programming.
13. Group technology.
14. Statistical techniques.
15. Quality control.
16. Decision making theory.
17. Replacement models.
18. Assembly line balancing.
19. MRP-JIT-ISO-TQM.etc.

A Complete Guide of Industrial Garment Merchaindiser

Caricato da

Informazioni sul documento

Copyright

Formati disponibili

Condividi questo documento

Condividi o incorpora il documento

Opzioni di condivisione

Hai trovato utile questo documento?

Questo contenuto è inappropriato?

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

A Complete Guide of Industrial Garment Merchaindiser

Caricato da

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

2018

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 2

PERSONAL MESSAGE FROM WRITTER

The Book is a complete guide of Industrial Garment Merchandiser totally dedicated to my

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 3

Interview Questions and Answers for Apparel Job:

4. What is approved sample?

6. What is production pattern?

It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.

7. What is working pattern?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 4

12. What is ligne number?

13. What is L/C?

15. What is quota?

17. What is C&F?

18. What is CIF?

19. What is category?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 5

21. What is faced cloth?

23. What is the abbreviation of G/D?

24. What is gauge?

1. Solid color solid size carton packing,

Packing List Documents in Apparel Sector:

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 6

1. Why de-size or de-sizing process is important in garment washing?

 To remove the sizing materials.

 If the water is less crease mark will come.

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 7

5. Why bleaching process is important in garment washing?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 8

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 9

Interview Question and Answer for Apparel Merchandiser:

5. What is sleeve length?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 10

12. What is basic block?

14. What is color bleeding?

16. What is back length or HPS?

17. What is back rise?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 11

18. What is CBN?

19. What is blind stitch?

23. What is back tacking?

25. What is back rise?

26. What is across back?

Career in Garment Merchandising: Common Questions from Fresher

1. What is garment merchandising?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 12

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 13

3. At the earlier stage, any experience required in garment

6. What is the application method for the post of apparel

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 14

 Career objective related with RMG sector,

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 15

 Fluent English spoken,

12. What is the working procedure of apparel merchandiser?

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 16

There are also different working procedures for woven garment

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 17

15. What is your advice for the new comers?

 Dedication to the readymade garments sector,

Difference between Trimmings and Accessories:

Sl No. Subject Trimmings Accessories

BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &TECHNOLOGY(BUFT) Page 18

Fabric follow up contains the following issues: