MIXOLOGY
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
Pride Of Mexico
Tequila and mezcal add south-of-the-border flavors to the craft cocktail scene
BY SALLY KRAL
M
ixology is clearly not a passing
trend: Consumers are more
knowledgeable about spirits and
cocktails than ever before, always seeking
new and out-of-the-ordinary experiences
at the bar. Tequila in particular is linked
with cocktail culture because of its history
with the Margarita, but its true potential
as a component in high-end mixology
has only come to light in recent years.
“Without the creation of quality cock-
tails by mixologists, Tequila wouldn’t have
the popularity it’s experiencing today,” says
Pep Katcher, cofounder and president of
Cruz Tequila. “By using Tequila in creative
new ways, mixologists have been the key
to Tequila’s growth.”
Perhaps owing even more to the
mixology movement is mezcal, an agave-
based spirit like Tequila that has a bolder,
The Sweet Heat cocktail combines sweet and
smokier profile. Growing interest within spicy flavors by mixing Tres Agaves Tequila from different types of agave, making
the Tequila category has naturally led to Reposado, Licor 43 liqueur, agave nectar, them rather distinct from one another.
an increase in awareness of mezcal. “I fresh lime juice and muddled jalapeño.
would say that agave-based spirits are
undergoing a ‘boom within a boom’ right now because they
took a little longer to catch on in a big way compared to
whiskies, gin and vodka,” says Alex Lakin, general manager
of Mission Taco Joint in St. Louis. “But now people are more
open to cocktails and spirits in general, which has been hugely
beneficial for well-made Tequilas and mezcals.”
Sister Spirits
With Tequila benefiting from the popularity of the Margarita,
mezcal also proliferates as U.S. consumers become exposed to
the agave-based spirits category. “It can be easy to develop an
interest in Tequila cocktails thanks to the Margarita,” Lakin
says. “Once someone has a positive experience with a spirit in
a cocktail, they’re open to trying that spirit again. And then
once an interest in agave exists, there’s a huge amount of variety
for consumers to explore. When people are comfortable with
Tequila, they’ll be more inclined to expand into mezcal.”
74 M A R KE T WATCH | MAY 2014
Created by mixologist Summer
Jane Bell, the Serendipity blends
Suerte Blanco Tequila, Dolin
Blanc vermouth, Suze Gentian
liqueur and pea shoot greens.
Agave-based spirits pair well with
a variety of fresh vegetables.
Herminio Torres, Ilegal mezcal brand
ambassador, points to the role that
mixology plays in bringing mezcal into
higher prominence. “The cocktail boom
has provided a platform for bartenders to
educate people about mezcal, and now
it’s popping up in all sorts of bars.” One
such way to introduce consumers to
mezcal is to replicate the way Tequila was
largely introduced: through the Margarita.
At La Urbana in San Francisco, the
venue’s namesake Margarita ($9) blends
Pelotón de la Muerte mezcal with fresh
lime juice and agave syrup. Similarly,
cocktail consultant Leo DeGroff created
the Jalapeño Sting, comprising Scorpion
Silver mezcal, fresh lime juice, agave syrup
and muddled jalapeño.
Although Tequila and mezcal share a
common parentage, they are produced
“Tequila can only be made from blue
agave in specific regions of Mexico,
whereas mezcal can be made from a variety of agave plants
from different terroirs that are essentially smoked under the
soil, often adding very robust, smoky flavors,” explains Barry
Angus, president of Tres Agaves Products. In the native
language of Nahuatl, “mezcal” translates to “roasted agave,”
which means that Tequila is essentially a type of mezcal.
Yet when it comes to cocktailing, certain ingredients work well
with both spirits, despite their different flavor characteristics.
“With Tequila and mezcal I like to use spices like ginger and chilis,
fruits like strawberries, passion fruit and mango—and even
vegetables like cucumber, cilantro and avocado,” says Jason
PHOTOS BY (OPPOSITE) KELLY PULIEO
Walsh, mixologist at Botanic Lab, a cocktail lounge located
below the Mexican restaurant Casa Mezcal in New York City.
The use of vegetables in cocktails is certainly on trend right
now, and agave-based spirits fit into this category well. At Tres
Tequila Lounge & Mexican Kitchen in San Francisco, the
El Cilantrillo ($11) comprises Calle 23 Reposado Tequila, fresh
tomatillo, cilantro, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, lemon and
habanero jam. At Sixth Engine in Washington, D.C., bartender
Donato Alvarez’s Going Back to Mezcali ($11) blends Vida
mezcal with Aperol aperitif, Yellow Chartreuse, muddled
cucumber and fresh lime juice. And New York City-based
mixologist Dale DeGroff created the Copa Verde, featuring
Scorpion Silver mezcal, avocado, agave syrup, and lemon and
lime juices. Meanwhile, Suerte Tequila brand ambassador
Summer Jane Bell fashioned the Serendipity, a blend of Suerte
Blanco Tequila, Dolin Blanc vermouth, Suze gentian liqueur
and pea shoot greens.
Ixe Rodriquez, bar manager at Casa Mezcal, agrees that a wide
array of ingredients and flavors marry well in both Tequila and
mezcal cocktails, but he points out that finding the right balance
is key. “The combination of flavors is what really makes the cock-
tail. For example, rose syrup isn’t normally my favorite flavor to
pair with mezcal, but in our La Guapa cocktail, the syrup rounds
out the flavors and balances beautifully with the sourness and
spiciness of the other ingredients,” Rodriguez explains. La Guapa
($13) features Los Amantes Silver mezcal, rose syrup, and grape-
fruit, pomegranate and lime juices.
Botanic Lab’s Walsh also notes the similarities and differences
between the two Mexican spirits. “Tequila and mezcal can
often be paired along the same lines, but not always,” he says,
“Take traditional horchata (rice milk): It works very well with
Tequila but the smokiness of mezcal throws the horchata out
of balance.” Mission Taco Joint’s Lakin contends that while
Tequila and mezcal can both work well with fruit flavors,
mezcal ultimately pairs better with savory and bitter ingredi-
ents. The major flavor differences between Tequila and mezcal
often mean they’re put into two different cocktail camps, with
Tequila- And Mezcal-Based Cocktail Recipes
THE BITTER DUCHESS BONANZA
By Jason Walsh By Summer Jane Bell
Ingredients: Ingredients:
1½ ounces Scorpion Silver mezcal; 2 ounces Suerte Reposado Tequila;
½ ounce Campari aperitif; ¹⁄³ ounce Tio Pepe Fino Sherry;
¾ ounce orgeat almond syrup1; ¾ ounce sage-infused honey syrup1;
¾ ounce fresh lime juice; ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice;
Ground almonds; Fresh sage.
Lime wedge.
Recipe:
Tequila on the lighter, fruity side and mezcal on the bitter and to Tequila. “Chili is a welcome flavor
earthy end. “Popular Tequila cocktails tend to be tall and profile in Tequila drinks, and Ancho
refreshing with citrus acidity and a touch of sweetness, while Reyes is fantastic with all of Milagro’s
a lot of mezcal cocktails require a different and often more Tequila styles,” says Juan Pablo De Loera,
experienced palate,” Lakin explains. Texas ambassador for Milagro Tequila.
The Milagro Ancho Paloma features the
Fresh And Fruity brand’s Reposado variant, Ancho Reyes,
While early incarnations of the Margarita may have relied heavily grapefruit soda and fresh lime juice.
on bottled sour mixes, today’s Margarita features a more stripped “Infusions can add spice to a drink,
down approach, comprising just three ingredients: Tequila, lime whether by infusing the Tequila itself or
and agave nectar. “Tequila cocktails have changed considerably by infusing the simple syrup or agave
from the standard triple sec or sweet and sour combinations,” nectar,” De Loera notes. At Botanic Lab,
Cruz Tequila’s Katcher says. “In recent years, handcrafted head mixologist and manager Miguel
cocktails using fresh, natural ingredients and agave nectar have Aranda’s Crocodile Tears ($14) comprises
become the standard choice. Specialty bitters, unique spices, ArteNom Blanco Tequila, Grand Marnier
and various salts, peppers and sugars are also being used.” orange liqueur, passion fruit purée, fresh
One of the most popular combinations currently found in lemon juice, and a homemade jalapeño-
Tequila cocktails on bar menus nationwide is citrus and spice. and-black peppercorn tincture. At La Tequila and mezcal offer distinct enough flavor profiles that they can complement each other
Tequila has long been matched with lime, but adding different Urbana Tequila & Mezcal Bar in Atlanta, in a single cocktail, such as the Jardin Secreto (left) and the Calibre. 50 (right). Both mix
fruit juices to the mix, as well as heat from peppers and chilis, beverage program director Gilbert blanco Tequila, young mezcal and serrano pepper to balance sweet, savory and spicy flavors.
gives a Tequila drink that extra unexpected kick. At Mercadito Marquez offers his Calibre .50 cocktail
Hospitality’s Little Market Brasserie in Chicago, the Little ($12), made with serrano pepper-infused Arette Blanco Tequila, Del Maguey Vida mezcal, El Jimador Añejo Tequila, agave,
Market cocktail ($12.50) comprises Olmeca Reposado Tequila, Ilegal Joven mezcal, Marie Brizard Crème de Cacao liqueur lime, Jarritos tamarind soda, and a house-made chipotle and
fresh pineapple, guajillo chili and Pico Piquin seasoning. For and Angostura bitters. tamarind mixture.
a similar pairing of sweet and spicy, Tres Agaves Tequila is While the Margarita serves as a starting point for mixolo- “Mezcal cocktails embrace the more earthy, nuanced flavors
featured in the Sweet Heat cocktail, blending its Reposado gists to create their own unique Tequila-based drinks, mezcal of Mexico like tamarind and cacao,” says Jake Lustig, owner of
expression with Licor 43 liqueur, agave nectar, fresh lime juice seems to benefit from not having its own signature cocktail the Mina Real mezcal distillery in Oaxaca, Mexico, and brand
and muddled jalapeño. and has no associated set rules or expectations. “Mezcal is owner of ArteNom Tequila. El Nido cocktail ($10) at Nido
William Grant & Sons, which owns Milagro Tequila, adventurous, and that quality allows mixologists to create Kitchen & Bar in Oakland, California, blends Mina Real Silver
recently added Ancho Reyes, a spicy liqueur made from dried some amazing cocktails,” Ilegal mezcal’s Torres says. mezcal with Fernet Vallet—an herbal liqueur made from Mexican
poblano peppers that’s marketed as the perfect companion aromatic plants, roots and spices, including cinnamon, clove,
Smoky And Savory Quassia wood, gentian root and cardamom—Green Chartreuse,
With Tequila, the common practice of today’s mixologists is to fresh lime juice and simple syrup.
keep it simple with one or two major flavor components, but “Mezcal has an intense, buttery, velvety, smoky flavor that
with mezcal, mixologists are taking more risks with layers upon adds a lot of depth and overall character to any cocktail and
layers of ingredients and flavors. “Mezcal’s complexity and most ingredients,” Botanic Lab’s Walsh says. His Bitter Duchess
XOCO KISS
powerful flavor of earth, smoke and spice make it so interesting ($14) comprises Scorpion Silver mezcal, Campari aperitif,
By Ixe Rodriguez to play with in cocktail crafting,” Casa Mezcal’s Rodriguez says. house-made orgeat almond syrup and fresh lime juice. At
Ingredients: “You can throw a ton of ingredients into a cocktail, and the Mission Taco Joint, bartender Rebecca Turner blends mezcal
1½ ounces Los Amantes Joven mezcal; mezcal flavor will remain—unlike vodka, which disappears after with numerous bold flavors to create the layered and complex
1 ounce Marie Brizard Chocolat it’s mixed with a few strong ingredients.” Rodriguez adds that Smoke and Fire ($9), featuring Del Maguey Vida mezcal,
Royal liqueur;
¾ ounce fresh lime juice;
mezcal’s earthiness can stand up to bold herbal notes and even Dolin Dry vermouth, house-made serrano syrup, Bittermens
½ ounce agave syrup; enhance their aromas. For example, his Juchitan cocktail ($14), Hellfire Habanero shrub, Fee Brothers Peach bitters and fresh
4 slices fresh peeled ginger; comprises Los Amantes Silver mezcal, Monopolowa Dry gin, serrano pepper. Similarly complex is the Sundial Sour, created
Orange slice. rosemary, mint and ginseng. by Del Maguey East Coast director Misty Kalkofen, blending

PHOTOS BY (LEFT) GILBERT MARQUEZ; (RIGHT) MARTIN CAPELLA

Recipe:
Combine mezcal, aperitif, syrup and juice in a
cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into
a coupe glass rimmed with ground almonds.
Garnish with lime wedge.
1
Combine ½ cup ground raw unsalted almonds,
2½ cups water and 2½ cups white granulated sugar
in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until mixture
is fully dissolved, bring to a slight boil, and then
turn off heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Fine strain
the mixture into a glass jar, add 1 teaspoon of bitter
almond extract and refrigerate.
Combine Tequila, Sherry, syrup and juice in a
shaker with ice and shake. Strain into an ice-filled
rocks glass and garnish with sage leaves.
1
In a sauce pan, simmer 2 cups honey with
2 cups water and whisk thoroughly to combine.
Pour hot syrup into a jar and add a large bunch
of fresh sage leaves. Let steep for several hours,
muddle, whisk again and then strain out solids.
Store in a cooler for up to two weeks.
Recipe: Suerte’s Bell notes that the trend of using two different spirits Del Maguey Vida with Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot
In a shaker, muddle the mezcal and ginger. Add equally in drinks is gaining ground. At Casa Mezcal, mixologist
liqueur, juice, syrup and ice. Shake well and pour Junior Merino’s Jardin Secreto ($14) features Los Amantes Joven
into a rocks glass. Garnish with an orange slice. mezcal, Siembra Azul Blanco Tequila, Damiana herbal liqueur,
guava purée, fresh lime juice, serrano pepper and agave syrup, and
Rodriguez’s Sao Paulo ($13) blends Los Amantes Silver mezcal
with Leblon Reserva Especial cachaça and vanilla. Similarly,
mixologist Philip Ward’s The Good Cork ($14) at New York City
bar Mayahuel mixes Del Maguey Vida mezcal, Redbreast Irish
whiskey, Bénédictine herbal liqueur and Peychaud’s bitters. And
the Dos Agaves cocktail ($10) at Tres Tequila Lounge comprises
liqueur, Royal Rose Saffron simple syrup, Bittermens Celery
shrub and lemon juice.
Whether today’s consumer is craving a refreshing citrus-
forward cocktail or a bold and smoky sipping tipple, agave-based
spirits deliver a diverse array of flavor profiles and drink styles.
“Bartenders and mixologists continue to be very creative with
their cocktails,” Ilegal mezcal’s Torres notes. “I’m sure this is
only the beginning for the agave spirits category.”  mw
Sally Kral is an Ithaca, New York-based freelance writer.

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