MIXOLOGY

CACHAÇA

Brazilian Flair
Mixologists are going beyond the Caipirinha with an array of bold,
fruity and aromatic cachaça cocktails
BY SALLY KRAL

A head of the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, exports of

cachaça—the country’s national spirit—notably
increased, according to Campari America
vice president of marketing Umberto Luchini. The
company owns Sagatiba cachaça, which features
Olympics, the country has ascended to become a major global
player in recent years, and people are learning more about the
Brazilian way of life,” he says. “Cachaça is an important cultural
link to Brazil, and sipping a well-made cachaça drink trans-
ports you to that beautiful, tropical country.”
The traditional Caipirinha cocktail inspires many variations that play on cachaça’s multifaceted taste profile. The Cucumber Jalapeño
Caipirinha (above right) highlights the spirit’s vegetal notes, while the Kumquat Ginger Caipirinha (above left) works with its sweetness.
A custom creation, the Barbosa cocktail (below) incorporates Aperol, cherry liqueur and bitters to round out the cachaça’s different elements.
the unaged Pura, the aged Velha and the extra- The most common way that cachaça is enjoyed—and
aged Presiosa expressions. “In 2013, total what serves as consumers’ primary introduction to the
export volumes for cachaça increased by just spirit—is in the Caipirinha, which blends cachaça
over 13 percent compared to 2012, with with muddled lime and sugar. “When offering
$16.6 million worth of cachaça exported even a classic Caipirinha, guests are excited,”
from Brazil to other countries,” Luchini says Mitch Einhorn, owner of the Chicago
says. “The United States is Brazil’s shop and bar Lush Wine & Spirits. “Imbibers
second-largest cachaça market after are always looking for something new and
Germany, with about 78,000 cases different, and they also love rediscovering
imported in 2013.” classic cocktails. The Caipirinha offers a
The World Cup certainly helped traditional drink that many haven’t tried
expand exposure of cachaça, and as before. The cocktail boom has been great
more brands become available in the for popularizing so many unique spirits
U.S. market, this awareness will only like cachaça.”
continue to grow. “Cachaça used to be
available only in specific pockets of the Caipirinha Craze
country, but now it’s expanding,” says Steve As Brazil gains increasing attention at a global
Luttman, founder of Leblon cachaça. And level and the country’s national spirit has
with the 2016 Summer Olympics set to take become more recognizable, mixologists are
place in Rio de Janeiro, Luttman expects the exploring cachaça’s cocktail possibilities, using
cane sugar spirit’s recognition to increase the Caipirinha as a starting point to experiment
OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTO BY (TOP LEFT) ANDREW KIST

significantly. “There are so many cachaça
brands in Brazil, and I expect many of them
to appear in the United States, especially as
the Rio Olympics promote more interest in
the country,” he adds.
Luke McKinley, digital marketing manager
for Novo Fogo cachaça, concurs, noting that
U.S. consumers are taking more note of Brazilian
culture. “With the World Cup and the upcoming
and explore new drink combinations. “In
recent years, the fame of Brazil’s national cock-
tail has spread beyond the borders of the country,
and these days Caipirinhas are available in bars
and restaurants from Miami and Montreal to
Cocktails like the Maroon Swizzle, blending aged
cachaça, simple syrup, lime juice and allspice
dram, are taking the spirit to creative heights.

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Mumbai and Munich,” says Vivian Viana, manager at Boteco
in Miami. The Brazilian restaurant and bar’s house Caipirinha
($7) is made with Tatuzinho cachaça, muddled lime and sugar.
James Watkins, beverage director for Houston-based Cordúa
Restaurants, points to the Caipirinha as the cocktail that best
exhibits cachaça’s unique flavors. The company operates eight
Latin American venues in the Houston area. “Cachaça shows a
lot of character compared to traditional rums,” Watkins says. “It’s
far more intense in nature and pairs really well with high-toned
citrus like lime.” The Caipirinha ($9.95) at Cordúa’s Artista
restaurant features Barsol cachaça, muddled lime and sugar.
While the Caipirinha and cachaça go hand-in-hand,
Leblon’s Luttman is excited to see mixologists experimenting
with this simple recipe to make creative variations with
seasonal, fresh flavor profiles. “The Caipirinha is usually the
gateway to cachaça for many consumers, but we’re finding
that mixologists use the drink as a starting point to make more
elaborate fruit Caipirinhas and include unique additions like
herbs,” he says. Leblon’s cocktail book, “The Art of Cachaça:
Crafting Cocktails with Brazil’s Artisanal Spirit,” offers numer-
ous variations on the classic cachaça drink: The Kumquat
Ginger Caipirinha comprises Leblon, sugar, and fresh kumquats
36 M A RKE T WATCH | JU LY/AUGUST 2 015
muddled lime, sugar and a float of Mito “The Caipirinha will likely continue
No Kairakuen 5-year-old plum liqueur. to be the main driver of the cachaça
“Many consumers are familiar with the category, but we’re beginning to see
Caipirinha, and we love working with more creativity and unique combina-
cachaça to teach guests how good the tions,” Leblon’s Luttman says. In
spirit is and help them discover new New York City, the Lost in Bangkok
ways to enjoy it,” Einhorn says. ($14) at Louie and Chan restaurant
comprises Leblon, Cedilla açai liqueur,
Craft Combinations homemade spicy ginger syrup, Angos-
As a spirit distilled from cane sugar, tura bitters, lemon and orange juices,
cachaça is often compared to rum and and cilantro leaves. And at Forrest
even called “Brazilian rum,” but as Point bar in Brooklyn, New York,
Campari’s Luchini notes, the process bartender Dustin Olson’s Pencil Thin
for making cachaça is actually quite Mustache ($11) features Leblon, Fernet-
distinct. “Cachaça is unique because Branca amaro, fresh pineapple and
it’s distilled from the juice of fresh- lime juices, and a house-made mint
pressed sugarcane. Most rum is made syrup. Tiki-inspired cocktails are a
from sugarcane juice that has been Cachaça’s versatility shines in cocktails like the natural fit for cachaça due to both the
cooked and caramelized prior to Pencil Thin Mustache, which also includes spirit’s sugarcane base—a natural partner
fermentation and distillation,” he amaro, lime and pineapple juices, and mint syrup. for fresh fruits and citrus—and its
explains. “The pure sugarcane gives earthiness, which pairs well with herbs
cachaça a distinct herbaceous flavor with underlying grassy, and spices. “Cachaça adds Brazilian flair to any cocktail, espe-
vegetal notes that can change depending on where the sugar- cially those calling for fresh and simple ingredients, such as
cane is grown.” fruit juices and herbs,” Luchini notes. Sagatiba’s Maroon Swizzle
In Brazil, there are more than 40,000 cachaça distill- features the Velha expression, Demerara simple syrup, fresh
eries, according to Novo Fogo’s McKinley, who adds that lime juice and homemade allspice dram.
diversity within the category is vast. “All cachaças must While cachaça is commonly featured in fruity, Caipirinha-
be distilled from raw sugarcane juice, giving them a like drinks, the spirit is complex enough to stand up to bolder
distinctly funky and fresh flavor, but regional differences flavors and other spirits, as many mixologists are beginning
Mixologists are taking cachaça beyond the Caipirinha in climate, terroir and production methods have a tremen- to discover. “Cachaça definitely screams to be part of a refreshing
with such creations as the Bossa Manhattan (left),
which uses açai liqueur, agave nectar and bitters, and dous impact on how each cachaça tastes.” Novo Fogo cocktail, but recently I’ve started to see it being used in more
the Visible Edulis (above), mixing passion fruit and markets four different expressions: the unaged Silver and aromatic cocktails,” says Brian Klemm, bartender at Copa d’Oro
orgeat syrups, along with lime and pineapple juices. the aged Chameleon, Tanager and Barrel-Aged variants, in Santa Monica, California. “This trend definitely speaks to
each exhibiting different flavor characteristics due to the the true vegetal and earthy characteristics of the spirit and
and ginger; the Cucumber Jalapeño Caipirinha blends Leblon barrels used and the time spent in them. what makes it so beautiful. The Caipirinha got cachaça
with agave nectar and fresh English cucumber, lime and jala-
peño; and the Tangerine Honey Caipirinha features Leblon,
fresh tangerines, tangerine juice and honey. Cachaça-Based Cocktail Recipes
Oficina Latina in New York City has a section of its cocktail
menu devoted to Caipirinhas. The Classic Caipirinha ($12) PENCIL THIN MUSTACHE JAPANESE CAIPIRINHA ZOE IN BRAZIL
features Pitú cachaça, muddled fresh lime and sugar; the Banana By Dustin Olson By Mitch Einhorn By Brian Klemm
Ginger Jalapeño Caipirinha ($14) comprises jalapeño-infused
Pitú, fresh banana purée, house-made ginger syrup, fresh lime Ingredients: Ingredients: Ingredients:
1½ ounces Leblon cachaça; 2½ ounces Velho Barreiro aged cachaça; 1 ounce Cuca Fresca cachaça;
and sugar; and the Kumquat Rosemary Caipirinha ($14) blends ¾ ounce Fernet-Branca amaro; Splash Mito No Kairakuen 5-year-old 1 ounce St-Germain elderflower liqueur;
Avuá Amburana aged cachaça, house-made rosemary syrup, 1½ ounces pineapple juice; plum liqueur; Bar spoon Campari aperitif;
sugar, and fresh kumquats and lime. ½ ounce lime juice; ½ lime, quartered; 3 lime quarters;
“The current sophistication of bartenders has made a simple ½ ounce mint syrup1; 1 teaspoon white sugar; 1 ounce grapefruit juice;
Mint sprig. Lime peel. Lime wheel.
Caipirinha a great foundation for experimentation,” says Josh
Hafer, corporate communications manager for Água Luca cachaça Recipe: Recipe: Recipe:
owner Heaven Hill Brands. “Modifying a base Caipirinha with Combine cachaça, amaro, juices and syrup in a Muddle lime and sugar in the bottom of a rocks Squeeze limes and drop into a cocktail shaker.
unexpected flavors and ingredients presents a mix of the exotic cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into glass. Add ice and cachaça and then float liqueur Add cachaça, St-Germain, Campari, grapefruit
PHOTO BY (LEFT) ANDREW KIST
an ice-filled Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with a on top. Garnish with a lime peel. juice and ice. Shake and strain into an ice-filled
with a simple, recognizable and delicious cocktail.” At The Broken
PHOTO BY ANDREW KIST
sprig of mint, lightly slapped to release the aroma. rocks glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.
Shaker in Miami, the Parcha Caipirinha ($11) features
Leblon, passion fruit juice and house-made pink peppercorn 1Combine 2 cups sugar, 2 cups water, ½ teaspoon salt and 2 cups roughly chopped mint in a saucepan. Bring to a light boil and remove from heat when sugar
reduction, while Einhorn’s Japanese Caipirinha ($10) at Lush is dissolved. Allow to steep for 30 minutes, strain and cool.
Wine & Spirits blends Velho Barreiro aged cachaça with
JU LY/ AU GU ST 2015 | M ARKET WATC H 37

through the door, so now the spirit just has
to turn the corner and show that it can do
more.” For Cuca Fresca cachaça, Klemm
created a number of cocktails ranging from tall
and refreshing to bold and bitter. His Porto
Velho features Cuca Fresca with fresh lime
juice, raw agave nectar, Original Combier
orange liqueur and egg white, while his
Rabo de Gallo blends Cuca Fresca with
Cynar amaro.
“Consumers are starting to appreciate arti-
sanal cachaças that make for great craft The Japanese Caipirinha (top) the conventionally used Bourbon or rye—it
comprises cachaça, muddled lime and
cocktails,” Novo Fogo’s McKinley says. plum liqueur, while the Zoe in Brazil can be equally enjoyed with spirits like mezcal,
“They are learning that cachaça goes far (above) mixes cachaça, elderflower Pisco and certainly cachaça.” Sagatiba’s
beyond the Caipirinha.” The brand’s mixology liqueur, Campari and grapefruit juice. Brazilian Old Fashioned features the Velha
team created numerous unique craft cock-
tails using each of Novo Fogo’s expressions. The Wisdom in
Waitsburg, inspired by mixologist Jim German, features Novo
Fogo Silver, Carpano Antica Formula sweet vermouth, Cynar
and fresh ginger juice; the Visible Edulis blends Novo Fogo
Chameleon with B.G. Reynolds’ Passion Fruit syrup and Original
Orgeat syrups, and lime and pineapple juices; the Barbosa
Cocktail comprises Novo Fogo Tanager, Aperol aperitif,
Combier Rouge cherry liqueur and Scrappy’s Aromatic bitters;
and the Cornerstone is made with Novo Fogo Barrel-Aged
cachaça, Fernet-Branca, B.G. Reynolds’ Lush Grenadine
syrup and Scrappy’s Orange bitters. “In Southern Brazil,
barrel-aged cachaça is the runaway favorite type of cachaça
to enjoy,” McKinley explains. “We use repurposed American
oak Bourbon barrels to age our cachaças, and American
bartenders love using these barrel-aged expressions in classic
stirred drinks.”
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Classics Reimagined
As craft cocktails continue to reign at the bar, mixologists are on
the lookout for new ingredients, unique flavor combinations and
chances to experiment. As a lesser-known spirit, cachaça offers
mixologists a way to introduce cocktail enthusiasts to new, unex-
pected possibilities, even by simply taking a tried-and-true recipe
and using cachaça instead of the traditional spirit.
“Swapping out cachaça for the base spirit in a range of beloved
cocktails creates an entirely new flavor profile, which is what
today’s bartenders and drinkers are constantly looking for,”
McKinley says, adding that due to the diverse range of flavors
from one brand to the next, cachaça can be used in place of most
spirits. “It’s funky, fresh, vegetal, bright and earthy. Cachaça cock-
tails create a space where people who appreciate agave spirits,
cane spirits and even whiskies can all find common ground.”
Indeed, there’s now an abundance of cocktail recipes that
feature cachaça swapped for the expected base spirit. Replacing
the usual white rum, Sagatiba Pura cachaça is the star of the
brand’s Brazilian Mojito, which also features fresh mint, sugar,
lime and club soda. Leblon’s cocktail book includes a section
devoted to “Twists on the Classics,” including
the Brazilian Margarita, made with Leblon,
Cointreau orange liqueur, lime juice and simple
syrup, and the São Paulo Cosmo, comprising
Leblon, Cointreau, cranberry juice and lime
juice. At Lush, Einhorn’s Brazilian Bloody
($10) is made with Velho Barreiro cachaça
and Twisted Spoke Bloody Mary mix.
While these cocktails all use cachaça—both
unaged and aged—to replace white spirits,
cachaça can also stand in the place of dark
spirits like whiskies. “Spirits are not necessarily
bound to long-held, rigid cocktail formulas,”
McKinley says. “For example, the classic Old
Fashioned is a drink blueprint that transcends
expression, maple syrup, Angostura Orange
bitters and Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel–Aged bitters. Leblon’s
Bossa Manhattan blends Maison Leblon Reserva Especial aged
cachaça with Cedilla açai liqueur, agave nectar and Angostura
bitters, and the brand’s Brazilian Julep features Leblon cachaça,
Southern Comfort liqueur, lime juice, simple syrup and mint.
The Caipirinha will likely continue to lead as most consumers’
introduction to cachaça, but as the category grows in the
U.S. market, there’s plenty of room for the spirit to find its
way onto more bar menus and into more experimental cocktails.
“I think you have to believe in the future of cachaça,” Heaven
Hill’s Hafer says. “There is a great amount of exploration still
available for bartenders. As variety within the category begins
to expand here in the United States, we’ll start to see a real
burst of cocktail experimentation.”  mw
Sally Kral is an Ithaca, New York–based freelance writer.