MIXOLOGY

ASIAN SPIRITS

Despite being a mainstream

spirit in China, baijiu is a
rarity in the U.S. At Jaya at
The Setai Hotel in Miami,
the Dragon Fire Spritz blends
baijiu, Aperol and prosecco.

East Meets West

Asian spirits give familiar cocktails an exotic twist
BY SALLY KRAL

At Chicago’s Imperial Laiman, the White Tiger (left) incorporates Japanese whisky, orange water and house-made cashew syrup. The
Sensei (right) at New York City–based Kimoto mixes Mizu shochu with plum wine, lychee and lemon juices, bayberry syrup, and bitters.

T
he cocktail as we know it today is a distinctly Western
invention, with many of the more well-known recipes,
such as the Old Fashioned and the Manhattan, created
right here in the United States. But as more and more spirits
emerge from all around the globe, today’s modern cocktails
are a melting pot of different flavors, ingredients and cultures.
Tyler Lewis, bartender at Departure in Portland, Oregon,
notes that as interest in cocktails has soared among U.S.
consumers, so has interest in more obscure spirits and ingre-
“Historically, Asian spirits have been made in a traditional
method for drastically longer periods of time than European
and American spirits,” he says. “When it comes to making
cocktails with these spirits, it’s more of a challenge because
the concept of the cocktail came long after the invention of
these spirits, so you’re essentially breaking new ground using
an ancient shovel.”
Indeed, most spirits produced in Asian countries have been
widely consumed in the East for centuries, but it took the recent
RIGHT) EFREN GARZA

dients from other countries. “As demand has increased, the resurgence of cocktail culture in the United States for these prod-
mixology community has unearthed and exposed a lot of spir- ucts to make their way into the spotlight in the West.
its that were provincial before,” he says. As the craft cocktail industry continues to grow, mixologists
(TK) TK

PHOTO BY (TK) TK

Lewis adds that Asian spirits are particularly exciting to use are always looking for new ingredients to keep it thriving, says
PHOTO BY (TOP

in cocktails because their flavors and production methods are Jhony Alam, head mixologist at Kimoto Rooftop & Garden
vastly different from what Westerners typically encounter. Lounge in New York City. “Asian spirits are innovative when

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it comes to trying out new blends of
exotic fruits and flavors, giving mixol-
ogists around the world new options
to work with,” he adds. “These spirits
are known to mix ingredients like
rice, yuzu, lemongrass and Sichuan
peppercorn, which are common in
Asia, but new and exotic to the West-
ern palate.”
Introducing consumers to new
flavors and ingredients is the best part
about working with unique spirits like
those from Asia, says Josh Strauss, bar
manager at Ani Ramen, which has
locations in Jersey City and Montclair,
New Jersey. “It’s fun to take a foreign
spirit and make it approachable by
mixing it into a cocktail in a relatable
way,” he says. “The ultimate goal is for
customers to discover something they
never knew they would enjoy.”
Key Players
By and large, U.S. consumers are most
familiar with Japanese spirits, thanks
to the increasing popularity of Japa-
nese whisky. Although not a spirit
itself, sake’s popularity has also helped
bring attention to shochu and other
Japanese spirits.
“I’m a huge fan of Suntory whis-
kies,” says Paul Ballesteros, beverage
director at Imperial Lamian in Chicago.
“Early on, Japanese whisky was influ-
enced by Scottish whisky makers, but
over time they found a style that The Yuzu Daiquiri (top) has a base of sake and yuzu be enhanced, not lost, amongst
incorporated their amazing water and juice, while the Aki Old Fashioned (above) blends other ingredients in the cocktail.”
terroir to create a whisky all their sake, sour cherry cordial, grenadine and bitters.
own.” His White Tiger cocktail ($12)
comprises Suntory Toki blended whisky, orange water and
house-made cashew syrup.
At Ani Ramen, Japanese spirits—particularly whisky and
shochu—are the main focus at the bar. “Our traditional high-
ball features Mars Iwai Tradition Black Label whisky. It’s aged
in Bourbon barrels and corn-based, so it serves as a great intro- lesser-known spirits from other Asian countries are finding
duction to Japanese whisky for American palates with its
subtle fruit and vanilla flavors,” Strauss notes. The drink ($10) baijiu, which is distilled from fermented sorghum or other
is a simple mix of whisky and soda water.
“We’re also big fans of Dassai 50 sake and Mizu shochu,”
Strauss says. “Just as with American spirits, Japanese spirits
come in a wide variety. Each has its own identity and calls for
different ingredients when used in cocktails.” He notes that
shochu differs from sake in that it can be made with certain
grains and other ingredients instead of or in addition to rice.
Mizu shochu is 67-percent barley and 33-percent rice. The
Spiked MTC ($10), created for Ani Ramen by New York
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City–based mixologist Kenta Goto,
blends Mizu shochu, yuzu juice, cane
sugar simple syrup and club soda.
“I love using Mizu shochu—it blends
with almost anything,” Kimoto’s Alam
says. “It’s remarkably smooth and light
with delicate, earthy notes seldom
found in Western spirits.” His Sensei
cocktail ($12) blends Mizu with
Kikkoman plum wine, lychee and
lemon juices, syrup from a jar of bayber-
ries, and Angostura bitters.
When building a cocktail around an
Asian spirit, many mixologists turn to
ingredients and flavors native to Asia,
including lychee, ginger, shiso and
yuzu. The Jade Bar at Sanctuary
Camelback Mountain Resort in Para-
dise Valley, Arizona, offers the Ronin
Punch ($14), created by bartender
Bryan Podd and featuring Ty Ku Silver
sake, fresh Thai basil, fresh lemon and
yuzu juices, house-made ginger and
honey syrups, and GT’s Organic Raw
Gingerade kombucha. At Makoto
in Bal Harbour, Florida, the Lotus
Blossom ($14) comprises Awa No
Kaori sudachi shochu, Belvedere
vodka, yuzu juice and the Japanese
soft drink Calpico.
“We tend not to go overboard
with ingredients that will take away
from the base spirit of the cocktail,”
Strauss says. “Simply put, the stand-
alone quality of a great sake should
He points to the venue’s Ani Martini
($12), which features Dassai 50
sake, Plymouth gin and Giffard Crème de Violette liqueur,
garnished with a mist of yuzu juice.
Up-And-Coming Contenders
As Japanese spirits gain more fans in the U.S. market,
their way into the mainstream as well. The Chinese spirit
grains, is one such spirit. “Baijiu has a wide range of flavors
that make the cocktail creation process really fun,” Imperial
Lamian’s Ballesteros says.
Christian Maeder, food and beverage director for Jaya at
The Setai Hotel in Miami, notes that the appeal of spirits like
baijiu is in their rarity in U.S. bars and stores. “These spirits
are a little harder to get and therefore there’s a niche, luxury
element to them,” he says. “And some of these products are
just making their first steps into our market, so they’re new

Cote’s Seoul Side (top) substitutes soju
for gin in a twist on the Southside, while
Imperial Lamian’s East Meets West
(bottom right) and Ani Ramen’s New
Jack City (bottom left) feature Japanese
whisky in their takes on an Old Fash-
ioned and a Manhattan, respectively.
Asian Spirit–Based Cocktail Recipes
SEOUL SIDE
By Devin Kennedy
Ingredients:
1½ ounces Hwayo 23 soju;
½ ounce Lustau East India Solera Sherry;
1 ounce lime juice;
½ ounce simple syrup;
5 sprigs mint;
Lime rosette.
Recipe:
Combine soju, Sherry, lime juice, simple
syrup and mint in a cocktail shaker.
Add a full tin of ice and hard shake for
10 seconds. Double strain into a coupe glass.
Garnish with a lime rosette.
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EAST MEETS WEST
By Paul Ballesteros
Ingredients:
1½ ounces Mars Iwai Tradition blended
whisky;
½ ounce Maker’s 46 Bourbon;  2 ⁄ 3 ounce Rittenhouse rye whiskey;
½ ounce simple syrup;
2 dashes Bittercube Jamaican No. 1 bitters;
2 Luxardo Maraschino cherries;
Orange peel.
Recipe:
Combine whiskies, simple syrup and
bitters in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir.
Strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish
with skewered cherries and an orange peel.
and fascinating for us.” The Dragon Fire Spritz ($16), created
by former Jaya mixologist Philip Khandehrish, features Byejoe
Dragon Fire baijiu, Aperol aperitif and Maschio Prosecco.
“I love using Vinn baijiu in cocktails,” Departure’s Lewis
says. “It’s Chinese in origin, but made right here in Portland
by a group of sisters whose family has been making it for seven
generations. It has such an interesting flavor and it’s a reward-
ing challenge to make a cocktail with it.” In The Blackest
Night ($13), Lewis blends Vinn baijiu with fresh lemon juice,
black pepper- and Lord Bergamot tea–infused honey, and Santa
Julia Malbec.
Lewis also uses Korean soju,
which is similar to Japanese shochu,
in his cocktails at Departure. His
Seoul Slushie ($13) features Jinro
soju, house-made bamboo syrup
and lime juice, while his Seoul
Slushie ($15) mixes Jinro with
coconut cream, Midori melon
liqueur and house-made pineapple
som drinking vinegar.
At Cote, a Korean barbecue
restaurant in New York City, bever-
age director and bartender Devin
NEW JACK CITY
Kennedy focuses on soju service
By Kenta Goto and on using the spirit creatively in
Ingredients: classic cocktails. “We have a curated
¾ ounce Choya Ume Excellent plum selection of artisanal soju from
brandy; Korea and New York and my
2 ⁄ 3 ounce Laird’s Straight Apple brandy; current favorite is Tokki. It’s made
½ ounce Martini Rosso sweet vermouth. in Red Hook, Brooklyn, by a
gentleman who learned to make it
Recipe: in Korea,” Kennedy says. His Soju
Combine brandies, whiskey and vermouth
in a mixing glass with ice. Stir and strain Cobbler ($15) comprises Tokki
into a coupe glass. soju, Henriques & Henriques
5-year-old Full Rich Madeira, The Mekong Mule at Miami’s NaiYaRa mixes sparkling
Giffard Banane du Brésil banana sake and house-made ginger-lemongrass syrup with vodka simply add to a classic recipe: The
liqueur and lemon juice. and ginger beer, adding unique flair to a cocktail classic. Mekong Mule ($15) at NaiYaRa in
“I think the unfamiliarity of Asian
spirits draws people in to try them,” Kennedy says. “And people
want to drink sake in Japanese restaurants or soju at a Korean
PHOTOS BY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) GARY HE; JEFF SCHEAR VISUALS; LORI LUO barbecue place—they want a true authentic experience.”
Eastern Influence
While today’s consumer is certainly more adventurous and
open to new dining and drinking experiences, Ani Ramen’s
Strauss notes that people still don’t want to venture too far
outside of their comfort zones. “In our New Jack City cocktail
we take the classic Manhattan and give it a little Japanese
influence by adding Choya Ume Excellent plum brandy,” he
explains. “This subtle twist gives the customer a new take on
their favorite classic cocktail, and they get to experience a
taste of Japanese culture that they may not find at most Amer-
ican cocktail bars.” The drink ($12), created by Goto, also
features Rittenhouse rye whiskey, Laird’s Straight Apple brandy
and Martini & Rossi Rosso sweet vermouth.
Imperial Lamian’s Ballesteros notes that Japanese whisky is the
perfect introduction into the Asian spirits category for those seek-
ing something new, but not entirely unfamiliar. His East Meets
West cocktail ($14) is a twist on an Old Fashioned, comprising
Mars Iwai Tradition blended whisky, Maker’s 46 Bourbon, simple
syrup and Bittercube Jamaican No. 1 bitters. At Neta in New York
City, beverage director Joshua Rolnick’s Aki ‘Old Fashioned’ ($14)
blends Bourbon barrel–aged Shintaro Junmai Ginjo sake, house-
made sour cherry cordial, grenadine and apple-cinnamon bitters.
“Spirits like sake, shochu and soju kind of act like a blank
canvas: They have a lot more character than vodka, but not as
pronounced as gin,” Cote’s Kennedy
says. “Soju can substitute for both of
these spirits pretty well in most
cases.” His Seoul Side ($15)—a twist
on the classic Southside—features
Hwayo 23 soju in place of the tradi-
tional gin, as well as Lustau East
India Solera Sherry, simple syrup,
lime juice and mint.
Asian spirits can indeed serve as
substitutes for other spirits in classic
drink builds to create an Eastern take
on Western favorites. In the Shiso
Plum Mojito ($16) at Jaya, Choya
Umeshu Extra Shiso Plum liqueur
replaces the usual rum, and the drink
is finished with lime, mint and soda
water. At New York City restaurant
Fung Tu, the Baijiu Bijou #2 ($15)
uses Hong Kong baijiu (HKB) in
place of the standard gin and also
features Green Chartreuse liqueur,
Bonal Gentiane-Quina aperitif and
Joy Dadi bitters.
Other Asian-inspired drinks
Miami takes a traditional Moscow
Mule recipe of Absolut Elyx vodka and Fever-Tree ginger beer
and adds Mio sparkling sake and house-made ginger-lemongrass
syrup. In the Yuzu Daiquiri ($17) at Miami’s Komodo, mean-
while, Enter.Sake Black Dot honjozo sake and yuzu juice are
added to an otherwise traditional Daiquiri featuring Facundo
Neo Silver and Bacardi 8-year-old rums and lime juice.
“Working with any spirit is always a fun challenge—whether
it be an American whiskey, a Jamaican rum, or a Japanese rice
spirit, they all bring something unique to the process,” Strauss
says. “The cool thing about working with Asian spirits is intro-
ducing our customers to something new.”
Ballesteros adds that the West is just at the beginning of the
discovery process. “As consumers’ palates become more adven-
turous, we’ll see more and more of these different Asian spirits
in bars nationwide,” he says. mw
Sally Kral is an Ithaca, New York–based freelance writer.
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