3.2.

Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage

3.2.1. Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Manual Method
Working Procedure of Taking Data:

 At first a weft wise 30 cm fabric sample cut off

 Then removed a weft yarn from the fabric (If multi count weft yarn used, more than one yarn have to remove).
 After that have to measure straightened length of this yarn by using crimp tester.
 Then calculate crimp percentage by using formula.
 On the same way crimp percentage have to calculate from the finished fabric
 Thus, take reading from five different looms and calculate average crimp percentage.
Table No: 12: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five differentlooms(Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 7.2 Ring Slub X 6 Open End /
66X40. The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Avg. Straightened Crimped Avg.
Obs Length Length Crimp% Crimp Length Length Crimp% Crimp
EPI Count PPI Count (L) (P) % (L) (P) %
cm cm cm cm

01 31.1 30 3.67 31.9 30 6.3

02 31.2 30 4.0 31.7 30 5.67

03 31.2 30 4.0 32.0 30 6.67

7.2 6
66 Ring 40 Open 3.93 6.18
04 Slub End 31.3 30 4.33 31.9 30 6.3

05 31.1 30 3.67 31.8 30 6.0

Table No: 13: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five different looms (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 7.2 Ring Slub X 6 Open End /
64X42. The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Straightened Crimped
Obs Length Length Crimp% Avg. Length Length Crimp% Avg.
EPI Count PPI Count (L) (P) (L) (P)
cm cm cm cm

01 31.0 30 3.33 32.4 30 8.00

02 31.0 30 3.33 32.1 30 7.00

03 30.9 30 3.00 32.3 30 7.67

7.2 6
64 Ring 42 Open 3.27 7.53
Slub End
04 30.8 30 2.67 32.3 30 7.67

05 31.2 30 4.00 32.2 30 7.33

Table No.: 14: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five different looms (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 7.2 Ring Slub X (16L-40D + 300L-
40D) / 60X48. The fabric is designed by 3/1 Left Hand Twill & weft ratio is 1:1 and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of
Obs Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Straightened Crimped
Length Length Crimp% Avg. Length Length Crimp% Avg.
EPI Count PPI Count (L) (P) (L) (P)
cm cm cm cm
16L- 32.6 30 8.67 16L- 36.4 30 21.33 16L-
01 40D 40D 40D
300L- 32.0 30 6.67 = 34.2 30 14.00 =
40D 8.8 21.8
16L- 32.5 30 8.33 36.3 30 21.00
02 40D
300L- 32.1 30 7.00 34.4 30 14.67
40D
16L- 32.7 30 9.00 36.5 30 21.67
03 7.2 40D
60 Ring 48 300L- 31.9 30 6.33 16L- 33.9 30 13.00 16L-
Slub 40D 40D 40D
16L- 32.6 30 8.67 = 36.8 30 22.67 =
40D
 04 300L- 31.8 30 6.00 6.53 34.4 30 14.67 1402
40D 7
16L- 32.8 30 9.33 36.7 30 22.33
05 40D
300L- 32.0 30 6.67 34.5 30 15.00
40D

Table No.: 15: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five different loom (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 10 Ring Slub X 12L-40D / 72X50.
The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of
Obs Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Straightened Crimped
Length Length Crimp% Avg. Length Length Crimp% Avg.
EPI Count PPI Count (L) (P) (L) (P)
cm cm cm cm

01 32.0 30 6.67 34.6 30 15.33

02 32.1 30 7.00 34.5 30 15.00

10
03 32.0 30 6.67 6.534 34.7 30 15.67 15.27
72 Ring 50 12L-
Slub 40D
 04 31.9 30 6.33 34.7 30 15.67

05 31.8 30 6.00 34.4 30 14.67

Table No.: 16: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five different looms (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 7 Ring Slub X 8L-40D / 60X40.
The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Straightened Crimped
Obs Length Length Crimp% Avg. Length Length Crimp% Avg.
EPI Count PPI Count (L) (P) (L) (P)
cm cm cm cm

01 31.9 30 6.33 33.5 30 11.67

02 32.0 30 6.67 33.4 30 11.33

03 31.8 30 6.00 33.4 30 11.33

7
 60 Ring 40 8L- 6.27 11.67
04 Slub 40D 31.8 30 6.00 33.6 30 12.00

05 31.9 30 6.33 33.6 30 12.00

Table No.: 17: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Crimp Tester

The sample fabric is collected from five different looms (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is ( 8.5OESL + 7 Open End + 10 Open
End) X (7OESL+10L-40D) / 68X39. The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill, warp ratio is, weft ratio is 1:1 and samples are collected after
two days relaxation.

No. Fabric Construction Grey Fabric Finished Fabric

of Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Straightened Crimped Straightened Crimped
Obs EPI Count PPI Count Length Length Crimp Avg. Length Length Crimp% Avg.
(L) (P) % (L) (P)
cm cm cm cm
7OESL 31.1 30 4.33 33.1 30 10.33
01 10L- 31.7 30 5.67 33.6 30 12.00
40D 7OESL 7OESL
7OESL 31.4 30 4.67 = 33.2 30 10.67 =
02 10L- 31.6 30 5.33 4.20% 33.5 30 11.67 10.60%
8.5
OESL 40D
+ 7OESL 31.2 30 4.00 33.1 30 10.33
03 7 10L- 31.7 30 5.67 33.4 30 11.33
Open 40D
68 End 39 7OESL 31.3 30 4.33 33.2 30 10.67 10L-
+ 10L-
04 40D
10 10L- 32.0 30 6.67 40D 33.6 30 12.00 =
Open 40D =
11.666
End 7OESL 31.1 30 3.67 5.868% 33.3 30 11.00 %
05 10L- 31.8 30 6.00 33.4 30 11.33
40D
Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method& Relaxed Method

Working Procedure of Set Loom Method:

 At first a running machine have to stop.
 Take fabric width in cm by measuring tape from selvedge to selvedge at fell of the cloth position from set loom.
 Then remove the last weft yarn from selvedge to selvedge from loom.
 Have to measure the straight length of this weft yarn.
 Then calculate crimp percentage by using formula.
 At second step, this measured position has to mark and then loom have to run.
 After production of 10 inch of the fabric take fabric width in cm by measuring tape from selvedge to selvedge at fell of the cloth position
from set loom.
 Then calculate crimp percentage by using formula.
 Thus, take reading from five different looms and calculate average crimp percentage.

Working Procedure of Relaxed Method:

The fabric samples are collected after two days later which is relaxed & previously unwinding from the cloth roller. In this method fabric is marked on loom.
Then according to this marked position, relaxed fabric width has taken. Thus, five reading has taken. From these sample fabrics a weft yarn is removed. Then
measure of straightened length of these yarn. Then crimp percentage is calculated according to the following formula.
Table No.: 18: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method & also Relaxed Method

These data are collected from five different looms (Air Jet) and those are same construction and that is 7.2 Ring Slub X 6 Open End / 64X42.
The fabric is designed by 3/1 Right Hand Twill and samples are collected after two days relaxation.

On Loom Method

No. Fabric Construction Lengt Fabric Crim Avg. Fabric Crim Avg. Relaxe Crimp Avg Finishe Crimp Avg.
of h of width at p% width 10 d % d
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Crim p Crim .Cri % Crim
Ob the fell of inch Fabric Fabric
s EPI Cou PPI Cou weft the p distance % p width mp width p
nt nt yarn cloth from fell cm
position % of the % cm % (selved %
(cm) cloth (selved ge To
(selve cm ge To selvedg
dge (selved (selvedge selvedg e)
To ge To To e)
selved selvedg selvedge)
ge) e)
01 176.6 173.8 1.63 171.8 2.79 171.01 3.27 164.3 7.48
02 176.7 173.8 1.67 171.8 2.852 171.31 3.14 164.6 7.35
7.2 6
03 64 Ring 42 open 175.7 173.4 1.50 1.58 171.1 2.68 2.76 170.37 3.13 3.22 163.8 7.26 7.39
04 Slub End 175.8 173.1 1.55 171.2 2.686 170.16 3.31 163.7 7.39
05 176.2 173.2 1.556 171.4 2.80 171.01 3.27 164.3 7.48
Table No.: 19: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method & also Relaxed Method

No Fabric Construction Lengt Fabric Crim Avg. Fabric Crimp Avg. Relaxe Crimp Avg. Finishe Crim Avg.C
. of h of width at p% width 10- d % d
the fell of Crim inch % Crim Fabric Crim Fabric p rimp
Ob
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn weft the distance width width
s p p p % %
yarn cloth from fell cm
position % of the % cm % (selved
EPI Cou PPI Cou
(cm) cloth (selved ge To
nt nt
(selve cm ge To selvedg
dge (selved (selvedge selvedg e)
To ge To To e)
selved selvedg selvedge)
ge) e)
01
170.1 167.8 1.37 164.4 3.467 159.8 6.44 147.9 15.01
02
169.8 167.4 1.433 165.0 2.90 159.7 6.32 147.5 15.11
10
03 12L-
72 Ring 50 168.3 165.7 1.569 1.47 163.2 3.125 3.12 158.4 6.25 6.34 147.2 14.33 14.77
40D
Slub
04 168.9 166.3 1.563 163.8 3.11 158.9 6.29 147.3 14.66
05 169.1 166.7 1.439 164.1 3.04 158.9 6.41 147.4 14.72
Table No.: 20:Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method & also Relaxed Method

No. Fabric Construction Lengt Fabric Crim Avg. Fabric Crimp Avg Relaxed Crim Avg. Finish Crimp Avg.
of h of width at p% width 10 Fabric p% ed
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn % . %
Ob the fell of inch width Fabric
s EPI Cou PPI Cou weft the distance width
nt nt yarn cloth from fell cm cm
position of the (selvedg (selved
(cm) cloth e To ge To
(selve cm selvedge selved
dge (selved (selvedge ) ge)
To ge To To
selved selvedg selvedge)
ge) e)
180.1 177.6 1.40 176.2 2.17 168.3 7.01
174.2 3.78
01 7Rin
g 180.3 177.4 1.48 175.8 2.50 168.7 6.71
6.25 174.7 3.66
02 Slub
62 44 open 1.43 2.26 3.65 7.16
+ 179.8 177.6 1.238 175.9 2.17 168.2 6.896
End 174.3 3.61
03 7
Ring 179.6 176.9 1.52 175.9 2.06 167.9 6.96
174.1 3.61
04
 180.3 177.6 1.520 176.0 2.38 168.5 7.00
17408 3.60
05

Table No.: 21: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method & also Relaxed Method

No. Fabric Construction Lengt Fabric Crim Avg Fabric Crim Avg Relaxe Crimp Avg. Finish Crimp Avg.
of h of width at p% . width 10 d % ed
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn the fell of inch p . Fabric Fabric %
Ob
s weft the distance % width width
EPI Cou PPI Cou yarn cloth from fell cm
nt nt position of the cm (selved
(cm) cloth (selved ge To
(selve cm ge To selved
dge (selved (selvedge selvedg ge)
To ge To To e)
selved selvedg selvedge)
ge) e)
01 169.2 165.2 2.42 163.8 3.29 159.2 6.28 152.01 11.30
02 169.5 165.7 2.29 163.9 3.41 159.6 6.20 152.2 11.35
7Rin
03 8L- 169.7 165.8 2.352 164 3.47 159.8 6.19 151.9 11.52
62 g 40 2.34 3.48 6.2 11.52
40D
04 Slub 169.9 166 2.34 164.0 3.57 160.1 6.12 152.0 11.71
05 168.9 165.1 2.30 163.9 3.66 159.02 6.21 151.0 11.70
Table No.: 22: Measurement of Weft Yarn Crimp Percentage on Set Loom Method & also Relaxed Method

No. Fabric Construction Lengt Fabric Crim Avg Fabric Crimp Avg Crimp Avg.C Finish Crimp Avg.
of h of width at p% width 10- Relaxe % ed
the fell of .Cri inch % Cri d rimp Fabric % Crimp
Ob Warp Yarn Weft Yarn
s weft the mp distance mp Fabric % width %
yarn cloth from fell width cm
EPI Cou PPI Cou position % of the %. (selved
nt nt (cm) cloth cm ge To
(selve cm (selved selved
dge (selved (selvedge ge To ge)
To ge To To selved
selved selvedg selvedge) ge)
ge) e)
01 7.2 6 176.6 174.3 1.31 172.5 2.37 170.3 3.70 3.93 165.8 6.51
66 40 1.31 2.34 6.34
02 Ring open 176.7 174.43 1.30 172.4 2.47 169.9 4.01 165.7 6.63
03 Slub End 175.7 173.43 1.30 171.9 2.21 169.2 3.84 165.7 6.03
04 175.8 173.5 1.32 171.8 2.32 169.0 4.02 165.3 6.35
05 176.2 173.9 1.32 172.2 2.32 169.3 4.07 165.9 6.20

Fabric Construction On Loom Method Relaxed Grey Fabric Relaxed Finished Fabric

Warp Yarn Weft Yarn At Fell of the cloth After 10 inch Manual By crimp Manual By Using Crimp

EPI Coun PPI Cou position production Tester Tester

t nt
No.
of
Ob
s
01
02
03
04
05

SL Fabric Construction On Loom Method Relaxed Grey Fabric Relaxed Finished Fabric
No. Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Crimp % at Fell of Crimp % after 10 Manual By using Manual By using
the cloth position inch production crimp tester crimp tester
01 EPI Count PPI Count
02
03
04
05
06