Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila

College of Engineering and Technology

Department of Chemical Engineering

Chemistry of Flavors and Fragrances

Presentation Outline:

A. Fragrance or Perfume Industry

a. History of Fragrance
b. Uses and Applications
c. Properties – Chemical & Physical
d. Sources/Raw Materials
i. Natural Fragrance
ii. Synthetic Fragrance
iii. Vehicle
e. Manufacturing Process
i. Flow of Raw Materials
ii. Chemical Reaction
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

iii. Equipment Flowchart

iv. Unit Operation and Unit Processes
B. Flavoring Industry
a. Introduction
b. History of Flavors
c. Types of Flavors
i. Natural Flavoring Substances
ii. Artificial Flavoring Substances
d. Flavor Companies in the Philippines
e. Production of Chocolate
i. Introduction
ii. Uses of Chocolate
iii. Properties of Chocolate
1. Chemical Property
2. Physical Property
iv. Raw Materials for the Production of Chocolate
v. Manufacturing Process of Chocolate
1. Flow of Raw Materials
2. Chemical Reaction
3. Equipment Flowchart
4. Unit Operation and Unit Processes
f. Production of Vanilla

Objectives:

General Objective:

To inculcate the knowledge for the production of flavors and fragrances through
industrial processes

Specific Objective:

 To insinuate brief introduction about flavors and fragrance

 To exhibit histories of flavor and fragrance in tabular forms
 To unearth the uses and applications of the flavors and fragrances in our society
 To establish sources of natural and synthetic fragrance components
 To distinguish the plant materials and animal secretions as natural fragrance
components
 To discern different processes in extracting essential oils
 To illustrate major steps in manufacturing fragrances and flavors
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

 To analyze chemical reactions involved in producing fragrances

 Adjudge the properties of flavors with its type
 Ascertain the sources of flavors depending upon its type

I. Fragrance or Perfume Industry

Fragrance is basically the core of odorous materials which may be natural or synthetic in
origin. The term “fragrances” and perfume are synonymous. It is the blend of two or more
materials characterized by having olfactive properties.

Since the history begun, humans have attempted to mask or enhance their own odor by
using perfume, which copies nature's pleasant smells. Many natural and man-made materials
have been used to make perfume to apply to the skin and clothing, to put in cleaners and
cosmetics, or to scent the air. No perfume will smell exactly the same on any two people
because of differences in body chemistry, temperature, and body odors.

Perfume comes from the Latin, perfumare – “to fill with smoke” (Austin, 1984). In other
textbook written by Bayquen, perfume comes from the Latin, par fumum – “through smoke”.
Many ancient perfumes were made by extracting natural oils from plants through pressing and
steaming. The oil was then burned to scent the air. Today, most perfume is used to scent bar
soaps.

While fragrant liquids used for the body are often considered perfume, true perfumes are
defined as extracts or essences and contain a percentage of oil distilled in alcohol. Water is also
used. The United States is the world's largest perfume market with annual sales totaling several
billions of dollars.
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

A. History

Period Events
Perfume was first use by the Egyptians as part
1500 BC
of their religious rituals.
Egyptian women used perfume creams and oils
1,000 BC
as toiletries and cosmetics.
1700’s Perfume gloves became popular in France.
With the turn of the century, fragrance houses
1800’s
emerged in Europe.
1900’s The arrival of the leather fragrances and floral
Floral fragrances became more popular. The
2000’s
emerged of small and exclusive fragrance
brands have been marketed.

B. Uses and Applications

Fragrances are mostly used in the cosmetic industry followed by the industry of
soap and detergents. Fragrances are used industrially in masking, neutralizing and altering
the odor of various products. Also it is used in creating distinctive scent for usually odorless
objects. Some fragrance exhibit antibacterial activity. Some of its applications are:

 Used in textiles to cover the smell of glue or casein

 Used in leather goods and paper to eliminate raw material smell
 Used in insect sprays to mask the odor of kerosene
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Although fragrances are not necessary to the performance of the product, scents are
used to effectively increase customer appeal.

Production of essential oils, in the Philippines, is generally small scale or of pilot plant
capacities only. Citronella production is concentrated in Regions 4 and 13, which have the
most number of production/processing areas in the country.

Here are some companies in the Philippines that

manufactures fragrance product:

1. Gyuma
Products: Cologne & Perfume
Contact: Gyuma, Quezon City, Philippines

2. Lewis and Pearl

Products: Cologne & Body Mist
Contact: Unit B 13-16 Doña Anita Building 284 E. Rodriguez
Sr. Avenue, Quezon City, Philippines

C. Properties
a. Chemical Properties

Fragrance materials are group of diverse molecules that are semi-volatile. It

must be volatile to be perceived. Aromatic compounds received their name because
many compounds that contain aromatic rings (e.g. benzaldehyde from almonds) have
distinctive smells. However, it is now known that not all compounds with benzene rings
have fragrance and not all fragrances have aromatic rings.
Small changes in chemical structure may, however, alter a sensory impression or
intensify an odor by several orders of magnitude.

b. Physical Properties

The odors of complex mixtures are often impossible to describe unless one of
the components is so characteristic that it largely determines the odor or flavor of the
composition. Although an objective classification is not possible, an odor can be
described by adjectives such as flowery, fruity, woody or hay-like, which relate the
fragrances to natural or other known products with similar odors.

A few terms used to describe odors are listed below:

 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

 Aldehydic – odor note of the long chain fatty aldehydes, e.g., fatty-
sweaty, ironed laundry, seawater
 Animal(ic) – typical notes from the animal kingdom, e.g., musk,
castoreum, skatole, civet, ambergris
 Balsamic – heavy, sweet odors, e.g., cocoa, vanilla, cinnamon, Peru
balsam
 Camphoraceous – reminiscent of camphor
 Citrus – fresh, stimulating odor of citrus fruits such as lemon or orange
 Earthy – humus-like, reminiscent of humid earth
 Fatty – reminiscent of animal fat and tallow
 Floral, flowery – generic terms for odors of various flowers
 Fruity – generic term for odors of various fruits
 Green – typical odor of freshly cut grass and leaves
 Herbaceous – on characteristic, complex odor of green herbs with, e.g.,
sage, minty, eucalyptus-like or earthy nuances
 Medicinal – odor reminiscent of disinfectants, e.g., phenol, Lysol, methyl
salicylate
 Metallic – typical odor observed near metal surfaces e.g., brass or steel
 Minty – peppermint-like odor
 Mossy – typical note reminiscent of forests and seaweed
 Powdery – note associated with toilet powders (talcum), diffusely sweet
 Resinous – aromatic odor of tree exudates
 Spicy – generic term for odors of various spices
 Waxy – odor resembling that of candle wax
 Woody – generic term of the odor wood, e.g., cedarwood, sandalwood

Property Why is it Important

Non-toxic Does not poison the wearer
Does not irritate the skin Prevents the wearer from suffering rashes
Evaporates easily Perfume molecules reach the nose easily
Insoluble in water It is not washed off easily
Does not react with water Avoids the perfume reacting with
perspiration

All fragrances feature layers of notes. When you spray the perfume on your skin, the
scent slowly develops over time, releasing particular odors over time. The first odor that hits
you when you spray or apply the perfume is called the top note. Consisting of volatile oils, it
quickly evaporates in about ten minutes. Examples of constituents that can be classified in
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

this category are citrus oils, such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, and lime. These scents are
what the consumer initially evaluates when considering the purchase of a perfume. The top
notes are generally light and fresh. After the top notes wear out, the middle “heart” notes
emerge. It is considered the “body” of a fragrance. The scented oils in this note take about
half an hour to develop and once released, the scent lingers for a few hours. Examples of
constituents that can be classified in this category are floral oils, such as peony, rose, and
hibiscus. The base notes are the heaviest scents and take a long time to develop. But, it
lingers on the skin for up to 8 hours. Some of the basic notes are sandalwood, musk and
vanilla.

Perfume for Women

 Packaging
Female perfumes may have rings or fancy caps, sashes and ties. They have
willowy shapes, or gentle slopes
 Notes
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Female perfumes have more floral notes. They can be sweeter, lighter, and tend
to not last as long. Women’s fragrance tends to smell like delicate fruits,
romantic floral and sweet vanillas.

Perfume for Men

 Packaging
Male perfumes are more structured, less “pretty”, with more metallic and
leather accents.

 Notes
Male perfumes have woodier, spicy, leathery notes. They may even contain rare
and harsh notes like civet, or peppers. You’ll also never find a fruity fragrance
marketed for men.

D. Sources and Materials

Perfume may be defined as any mixture of pleasing odorous substances incorporated in

a suitable vehicle. Back in the days, all products used in making perfumes were of natural
origin. Nowadays, finest perfumes are neither completely synthetic nor completely natural.
They are blended in order to enhance the natural perfume, to reduce the price, and to
introduce fragrances into the present available aromas.

Raw Materials for Perfumery

Major Raw Material Description Sources

 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Natural Fragrance
 Plant Materials

These are the oils

a. Essential Oils obtained by the steam Vegetable sources
distillation of plants.

These are essences

obtained by means of
b. Flower oils Flower plants
extraction with volatile
or non volatile solvents
These substances are Various Plants
c. Resins, gums, and highly odorous (balsam Peru,
exudations materials with heavy, myrrh, labdanum
viscous consistency etc.)
 Animal Secretions
Brownish orange
substance secreted
a. Castoreum or from beaver composed Perineal glands of
castor of benzyl alcohol, beaver
acetophenone, L-
borneol, and castorin
Soft fatty secretion of
civet cats. Upon
Perineal glands of
b. Civet dilution civet has sweet
civet cats
and somewhat floral
odor
Dried secretion of male
musk deer found in
Himalayas. Musk is the Preputial glands
c. Musk most useful animal of male musk
fixatives, imparts body deer
and smoothness to a
perfume composition.
It is the least used but
probably best known of
the animal fixatives. It
has waxy consistency
Secretion of
d. Ambergris and may be white,
Certain whales
yellow, brown, black, or
multicolored like
marble. It has musty
odor.
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Synthetic Fragrance
Substances that involve
products of
esterification, e.g.
 Isolates formates, acetates, Essential Oils
products of
hydroxylation (e.g.
hydroxycitronellal)
These are used to
replace some imported
animal fixatives. Other
 Synthetic and Semi-
synthetics have definite
synthetic Aroma Organic chemicals
odor of their own that
chemicals
contributes to the
ensemble of which they
are used
Known as benzoids,
considered to be the
most important among
Benzene, toluene,
 Aromatics aroma chemicals. They
or phenol
are the largest group, in
terms of production
and revenue

Minor Raw Material Description Sources

These are modern
solvents for blending
perfume materials. It is
mixed with more or less Refined ethyl alcohol
Vehicle
water according to the and water
solubility of the oils
employed and it is
volatile in nature

E. Manufacturing Process

Heart of the Process:

Extraction – the process that involves extracting of the product from the raw materials.
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Perfumes are also essentially manufactured using the same process as oils.

a. Flow of Raw Materials

Outline Flowchart for the manufacture of perfume materials

 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Sequence Operations in the Production of Alcoholic Perfumery

b. Chemical Reaction

Using special catalyst to produce Citronellol from Citronellal

Citronellol is one of the most widely used fragrance material, particularly for the rose
notes and for floral compositions in general.

Starting from citronellol, a muscone can be produce by the last two steps involving a
Grubb’s catalyst to achieve ring closure methathesis.

Muscone are now produced synthetically to spare the lives of endangered male musk
deer. Muscone are used as scents for woody notes.
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

c. Equipment flowchart

Hydrogenation of Citronellal to Citronellol

 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Storage tank

Perfume Production Equipment flowchart

d. Unit Operation and Unit Processes

Unit Operation Description Equipment

 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

The raw materials must be brought to

the manufacturing center.

Plant substances are harvested from

around the world, often hand-picked for
their fragrance.
Collecting of Raw
Materials Animal products are obtained by
extracting the fatty substances directly
from the animal.
Storage Tanks
Aromatic chemicals used in the
synthetic perfumes are created in the
laboratory by perfume chemists

Extracting oils from plant substances

may be done by:

Steam distillation - Steam is passed

through plant material held in still,
whereby the essential oil turns to gas.
This gas is then passed through tubes,
cooled, and liquefied. Oils can also be
extracted by boiling plant substances
like flower petals in water instead of
Extraction Steam distillation equipment
steaming them

Expression - is the oldest and least

complex method of extraction. By this
process, now used in obtaining citrus
oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is
manually or mechanically pressed until
all the oil is squeezed out. Presser
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Solvent Extraction – the process

involves a selective choice of solvent
that can extract the aromatic substances
desired. In this case, the most preferred
is the petroleum ether that draws or
leaches out of the aromatic substance
from the plant material then followed
by evaporation. Solvent Extraction equipment

Blending
Mixing tanks
The raw materials are ready to be
blended together according to a formula
determined by a master in the field,
known as a "nose." The scents are mixed
with alcohol and small traces of water

Fine perfume is often aged for several

months or even years, after it is
Maturing or Aging blended. Following this, a “nose” will
once again test the perfume to ensure
that the correct scent has been achieved

Storage tanks

The perfume is then cooled in zero

Cooling
degrees Celsius

Cooling Unit

The liquid is filtered to check for

Filtering
impurities
Filter
 Pamantasan ng Lunsod ng Maynila
College of Engineering and Technology
Department of Chemical Engineering

Filling of the product to the bottles or

Filling
container

Filling machine

The perfume are packed for labeling and

Packing
now ready for distribution

Packing machine