Clothing Construction I HFED 207

Winter 2013 Course Outline

Tuesday/Thursday 8:00 to 9:30 p.m. Clarke 322
Rosemary P. Bullough, M. S.

Prerequisites: None
Credit Hours: 2
Office and Phone: Clarke Bldg., Second Floor, Room 223P
Telephone: (208) 496-4029
E-mail: bulloughr@byui.edu
Office Hours: Monday, Wednesday & Friday 10:00 to 11:30 a.m. or by appointment.

Text Required: * Singer: The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing, 2009 edition
* Beginning Sewing 207 syllabus

Alma 4:6 . . . the people of the church began to wax proud, because of their exceeding riches, and
their fine silks, and their fine-twined linen . . . and all manner of precious things, which they had
obtained by their industry; and in all these things were they lifted up in the pride of their eyes, for
they began to wear very costly apparel.

General Course Objectives:

The major goal of this course is to help students acquire the knowledge, skill, and
experience necessary to construct basic sewn (wearable) garments using proper techniques.
On completion of this course the student should be able to:
1. Demonstrate proper construction techniques.
2. Follow pattern instructions.
3. Use correct terminology in relationship to sewing construction.
4. Derive solutions to construction problems.
5. Recognize the quality of clothing construction
6. Build your confidence in constructing wearable apparel

Equipment and Supplies: Tracing paper and tracing wheel

Fabric shears Machine needles Size 80 (Schmetz)
6" Seam gauge 60" measuring tape
Seam ripper Bernina bobbins (Class 15) metal only
Paper scissors Hand needles (size 8 or 9)
Tailors chalk Pin cushion
Dressmaker pins (size #16) Pocket folder
1 ½” binder used for samples 1 spiral notebook or loose-leaf paper

* Be sure your name is on all of your items. The office has an engraver that is available.

A letter grade will be based on the following percentile:

94-100% A 74-76% C
90-93% A- 70-73% C-
87-89% B+ 67-69% D+
84-86% B 64-66% D
80-83% B- 60-63% D-
77-79% C+ Below 60% F
You will be assigned a drawer in the sewing lab to store your sewing supplies. It is recommended
that you purchase a lock to keep your supplies locked up.

Attendance is extremely important. Roll will be taken at the beginning of each class. Ten points
will be given daily for being On Time & On Task. If you are late, you will only be given five points for
attendance that day. On task means working on class-related projects. You are expected to attend
for the full class period unless excused early. You must sew on your projects in class in order to
receive a grade.

Assignments will be due at the end of class on the assigned due date. Late projects will be
accepted only with prior approval. No projects will be accepted beyond 5:00 p.m., Tuesday,
April 9, 2012 at 5:00 p.m. I do not accept partially complete projects.

Quizzes are objective, timed, open book, taken in I-Learn before the in-class discussion on the
chapter reading. You will have two opportunities to take each quiz. As there are no makeup
quizzes, I will drop your lowest quiz score at the end of the semester.

All sewing items, classroom equipment and personal items should be returned to their proper place
before leaving the classroom. Keeping the sewing machines, sergers, cutting room, and lab clean is
YOUR responsibility and makes the lab a safe environment. Be familiar with lab and cutting room
rules. Treat the irons with care—make sure they are hot prior to using them. The irons shut off
automatically when not in use for 6 – 8 minutes. Clean them if you melt something on the bottom.

Clarke 322 is available to you whenever a class is not in session. There will be sewing tutors and lab
monitors available each evening and on Saturday. Only students currently enrolled in a sewing class
can be in Clarke 322. Check the available times during the day outside the door of the class.

Rexburg/Rigby Stores Idaho Falls Stores

WalMart Home Fabrics

530 North 200 East 1568 East 17th Street
Porters Hancock Fabrics
19 College Avenue 2247 East 17th Street
(10% discount) (Will give 10% discount to students)
Abbott’s Jo-Ann Fabrics
120 East Main, Rigby 2408 South 25th East
(joann.com has 40% off coupons)

Use class time wisely. Take notes. Stay caught up in your reading assignments. Come to lab during
open hours to get the assigned work accomplished for the next class period. The quality of your
work should increase with each project. I will not accept projects that are not done correctly.
Remember that it is easier to ask for help, than to do it over.

Students With Disabilities: In compliance with applicable disability law, qualified students with a
disability may be entitled to “reasonable accommodation.” It is the student’s responsibility to
disclose to the teacher and the Services for Students with Disabilities Office, 496-1158, any
special need she/he may have before the end of the first week of class. Services are coordinated
with the student and the instructor by this office.
 Cell Phones: All cell phones should be turned off during class hours and should be in
backpack. An exception may be made with prior approval for an emergency.

Fabric Requirements:

Purchase only fabric that is closely woven, medium weight and cotton or cotton blend
fiber content. Do not purchase fabrics that are knits, plaids, stripes or napped for your
projects. These fabrics require techniques which will not be taught in this class. Avoiding fabrics
which are flocked, loosely woven or slippery will attribute to completing your various projects
successfully. On the end of the fabric bolt you will find information very helpful regarding care
instructions, price, fabric width, and special finishes that may have been applied to the fabric
during the fabrication process. The care instructions may be a number in a triangle such as 1, 2, or
3. Care labels are available upon request from the clerk when you purchase your fabric.

Pillowcase: DUE January 24

Required Techniques: Serged Seam Finish
7/8 yard of cotton or cotton/polyester fabric
Thread to match fabric background
1/2 yard of contrasting fabric for hem
5-6” contrasting fabric for trim

Pants: DUE Feb. 14

Required Techniques: Elastic Casing, Plain Seam, Serged Seam Finish, Double
Fold Hem with machine stitching
Fabric yardage listed on the back of pattern envelope
Thread to match fabric color

Shirt: DUE March 14

Required Techniques: Front Facing with Interfacing, Topstitching or
Understitching, Buttons & Buttonholes, Set-in Sleeves, Fitting Darts, Collar
Amount of fabric specified on the pattern envelope
Buttons, Thread and listed Notions
Interfacing for facing front and collar

Skirt: DUE April 9

Required Techniques: Straight Grain Waistband or Facing with Interfacing,
Zipper (not an invisible zipper), Hem appropriate for fabric and skirt style
Skirt pattern with waistband or yoke
Amount of fabric specified on the pattern envelope
Skirt or pants slide hook
Interfacing for waistband
Zipper to match fabric and length specified on the envelope

Portfolio: Due February 21 & April 2

1 yard of woven cotton fabric (must be of good quality and must have contrasting
sides) **Buy two additional yards if planning to take HFED 307 and you want your
fabric to match.
1 ½” Binder with page protectors Contrasting colored thread
 CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION I
Winter 2013

Tuesday Thursday
WEEK 1 – INTRODUCTION January 10
January 8 Class introduction Quiz #1 – Equipment (p.
Review policies and outline 9-13, 24-37)
Sewing Equipment pages 24-28; 30-35 SEWING MACHINE
Measuring the body, pattern sizes Tour of sewing labs/cutting
Read pages 36-37 room
Fabric Options Sewing machine
parts/maintenance pp 9-13
Assignments: Take own body measurements Pressing & equipment
Threads and needles
Order patterns (PJ’s, Shirt)
Assignments:
Preshrink pillowcase fabric
Bring 1 yard fabric for
samples
WEEK 2 SERGER/PILLOWCASE January 17 Pillowcase
January 15 Quiz #2 – Serger, Stitches, Grain line (pp. 14- Sew pillowcase hem & serge
23, 73-74, 102-103, 115-119) Assignments:
Cut sample fabrics 3” x 7” Fill out pants alteration
Fabric & grainline study—Read 73-74 chart
Cut pillowcase fabric
Basic stitches and seams—pages 102-103 Samples: Basting
Introduce serger—Read 14-23, 115-119 (machine/hand)
Sew pillowcase main body and serge seams Serged together seam
Samples: Backstitch, Plain Seam/Pivot finish
WEEK 3 PANTS January 24 – PANTS
January 22 Quiz #3 – Patterns, Fabric Layouts, Pattern Pillowcase Due by 5:00
adjustments, Cutting, Marking, Enclosed Seams p.m.
and Casings (pp. 38-43, 75, 80-85, 105-107, Lay out fabric and cut out
202-204) shorts/pants
Pattern envelopes and guide sheets—Read pp. 38-41 (Before cutting have your
Making pattern adjustments—Read 85-89 teacher check) Marking
Fitting and design ease methods—Read 81-83
Fabric layouts—Read 75 Cutting fabric—Read page
80
Assignments:
Cut out pant pattern pieces ( Just cut the pattern Assignments:
pieces and alter pattern—no fabric) Sew inseam and crotch seam
Bring pant fabric on grain and preshrunk Samples: Double Fold
Machine Blind
WEEK 4 PANTS January 31 PANTS
January 29 Pin-fit side seams Hem samples
Flat fell and French seam samples—Read pages 105- Hem pants—Read 142-145
107 Assignments:
Elastic casing—Read pages 202-204 Samples: Hand Blind Hem
Samples: Flat Fell seam Slipstitch (hand)
French Seam
WEEK 5 PANTS/SHIRT February 7 SHIRT
February 5 Reducing bulk—Read page 104 Seam finishes—Read 110-111
Shirt alteration chart Fit shirt pattern—Read 90-
Samples: Notching 93
Clipping Assignments: Preshrink shirt
fabric
Samples: Seam finishes:
Pinked
Stitched and pinked
Zig zag
WEEK 6 SHIRT Quiz #4 - Hems, Seam Finishes, Feb. 14 SHIRT
February 12 Interfacing, Darts, Gathers, Sleeves, Collars and Pants Due by 5:00 p.m.
Topstitching (pp. 70-72, 110-111, 116, 120- Transfer markings to shirt
123, 126-27, 134, 142) Assignments:
Interfacing—Read 70-72, Staystitching & darts in
Dart construction—Read 120-121 shirt
Cut out blouse & interfacing (Have teacher check
prior to your cutting) Samples: Staystitching
Samples: Dart
Overcast (overedge - #3)
Clean finish (turn and stitch)
Serged overedge (separate)
WEEK 7 Collars & facings—Read 134-138 Feb. 21 SHIRT
Feb. 19 Trimming and grading Portfolio Due by 5:00 pm
Understitching & topstitching—Read 193 Assignments:
Collar stitched and ready to
Samples: Trimming,Grading,Understitching attach
WEEK 8 SHIRT Feb. 28 SHIRT
Feb. 26 Attach collar to shirt Types of sleeves—Read 126,
128-129
Sleeve hems or bands
Gathers—Read 122-123
Samples: Gathering
WEEK 9 SHIRT March 7 SHIRT
March 5 Setting in the sleeves Button and buttonhole
closures—Read 164-170
Samples: Buttons Shirt hem
Buttonholes
Sample: Darning/Mending
WEEK 10 SKIRT March 14 SKIRT
March 12 Quiz #5 – Skirt Alterations, Waistbands, Hems, Shirt Due by 5:00 p.m.
Closures, Buttonholes, Zippers (pp. 94-101, 140- Skirt alteration chart
145, 162-179) Cut out and alter skirt
Lab Day—Finish shirts pattern—Read 94-101
Assignment:
Bring skirt fabric, zipper,
interfacing, and pattern
(preshrink fabric)
Week 11 ZIPPERS March 21 – SKIRT
March 19 Centered zipper sample—Read 173-179 Assignment: Cutout skirt &
Samples: Centered zipper interfacing. (Have teacher
Lapped zipper check prior to your cutting.)
WEEK 12 SKIRT March 28
March 26 Sew Zipper in skirt Lab Day
Pin-fit skirt Waistbands/Yokes—Read
Sew side seams 140-141
Sample: Eased Hem Closures—snaps, hooks &
eyes—Read 162-163, 171-172
Samples: Hooks & Eyes
Snaps
WEEK 13 SKIRT April 4
April 2 Portfolio Due by 5:00 p.m. Hem skirt using marker—
Lab Day Read 128-131
Assignment: Skirts should be done except hem **Let skirt hang on hanger
before hemming

WEEK 14 SKIRT due by 5:00 p.m. April 11 - FINALS

April 9 Lab day No class

**The information on this course outline may be changed to meet the needs of the class.