difocus l uttarakhand

The compelling natural landscapes,

teeming wildlife, popular religious shrines,
and adventure zones make it a thrilling
vacation hotspot

T
he leisurely sprawl of Uttarakhand, formerly called
Uttaranchal, lies cheek by jowl with the international border-
lands of Tibet and Nepal to the east, in the Himalayan foothills.
Uttar Pradesh, the state from which it was carved in 2000, lies
to the south, while Haryana borders its western extension, and Himachal
Pradesh the northwest. The state comprises two distinct regions,
Garhwal and Kumaon dominated by the stunning snowpeaks of the
Garhwal and Kumaon Himalaya. Chief amongst these are the Nanda Devi
and her retinue of peaks. Nanda Devi is the tutelary deity of the hillfolk
whose omnipresent benevolence shines down upon them from her
glacial home.
One would be forgiven for oversimplifying Uttarakhand’s significance
as the ‘abode of gods’ but there’s little denying its importance as one of
Hinduism’s most important pilgrimage hubs set
LIFE BY THE amidst the stunning snow-ermined peaks and ver-
LAKE: A sooth- dant valleys of the Kumaon and Garhwal Himalaya.
ing sight of the
These have been the centuries-old mythical setting
Naini lake and the
bustling hill for the earthly home of a galaxy of deities from the
station of Nainital Hindu pantheon. Leaving their snowy beds in the
nestled around it Himalaya to bring their silted bounty to the north-
ern plain, are some of India’ holiest rivers — the
Ganga, Bhagirathi, Alaknanda and the Yamuna.
Nature’s hand has been bounteous in creating some of India’s most
enticing holiday offerings. While pilgrimage tourism may have played piv-
otal role in opening up time-honoured routes to the glacial playground of
the gods, Uttarakhand’s compelling natural landscape makes it one of the
country’s most-visited vacation hot spots for all age groups with a kalei-
doscopic choice of holiday experiences — given its delightful of range of
hill stations, exquisite wildlife retreats and a host of opportunities for
adventure sports — mountaineering, river rafting, trekking, skiing and
snowboarding and camping in bugyals, by lakesides and riversides or
even forested ridges overlooking the Himalaya. To temper these adrena-
lin-pumping activities, there are tranquil sojourns in any one of the
numerous yoga and meditation ashrams and health and wellness
retreats scattered along the banks of the Ganga and the Yamuna.

THE LAND OF SCENIC DELIGHTS

50 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012 FEBRUARY 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA 51
 The salubrious climate and lure of good
hunting in Mussoorie’s rich forests lured a cavalcade of
Europeans to populate this picturesque retreat

JITENDRA SINGH
HILL STATIONS

IN THE HIMALAYAS’ LAP Sanctuary and the Bhadraj Forest. The Nag Tibba trek is for the
adventurous. Mussoorie’s winter charm is growing amidst visi-
tors and a good snowfall is always a sure winner.
A PIECE OF HEAVEN: (Facing page) A charming view of
the popular hill station of Mussoorie; the lush tea gardens and
terraced fields beyond in Kausani

The hill stations of Uttarakhand offer
awe-inspiring mountainscapes, and
are ideal summer getaways for cityfolk
MUSSOORIE: The finest revelations of Mussoorie’s latent
charms have been rendered by author Ruskin Bond, a longtime
resident of this picturesque hill station sequestered in the ver-
dant Garhwal Himalayas. The gateway town to the Garhwal Hills
and capital of Uttarakhand, Dehradun, offers easy access by air,
rail and road to one of India’s perennial summertime retreats
from the burning plains. The salubrious climes and lure of good
hunting in the rich forestlands lured a cavalcade of Europeans
to populate this picturesque retreat. Convalescing battle veter-
ans and memsahibs with their entourages, even eloping couples
followed. Away from the eyes of the big honchos of British India
and their exploits in the summer capital of Shimla they carved
out a social whirl spiked by scandal and mythical exploits.
India’s royals and aristocrats, followed suit with their summer
palaces. Despite the hoopla and noise of the 21st century you
will still find enclaves of quietude and Raj nostalgia to soak in.
Mussoorie is beloved still for its quiet walks amidst the whis-
pering pines, picnics by gushing waterfalls like Kempti,
Jharipani and Mossy Falls, and treks for the snow views to Lal
Tibba on the Landour Ridge, the tranquil cantonment area with
its red-roofed flowering-gardened cottages. The ridge also takes
in the views of the pretty Doon valley spread below.The sable of
the night twinkles with a zillion stars, the valley’s scatter of tin-
sel lights is a fairytale wonder below.
People watching is a favoured pastime at along the mall
between Kulri Bazaar and the Library Bazaar with restaurants,
pony rides, cable car rides and skating on offer, while boating
beckons at the Company Bagh. Gun Hill serves views of
Banderpoonch and Nag Tibba peaks. Backpack in the hills filled
with a wide range of avifauna amongst the pine, oak and rhodo-
dendrons. Savour day hikes to Pari Tibba, Benog Wildlife
Nearby pine-filled Dhanaulti is good for a detour. The old hill
resort of Chamba, seeing a revival slowly with holidaymakers, is
set amidst the verdant reaches of the Mussoorie range, two
hours from town. Panoramic vistas of the snowpeaks, pristine
wooded hills and walking trails are the magnet here.
Around 15 km away lies picturesque Kanatal. Situated about
98 km from Dehradun, Chakrata provides a fascinating land-
scape for trekkers and nature lovers, and forests of conifers,
rhododendrons and oaks are best suited for long walks.
Getting there: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant and the
nearest railhead is Dehradun.
Acommodation Assistance: Tourist office, GMVN, Hotel Garhwal
Terrace, The Mall, Mussoorie. Tel: 0135 2632682,
www.gmvnl.com
KAUSANI: The 360-degree views of the snowpeaks of the
Nanda Devi range are the most spectacular from placid Kausani
in Bageshwar district, accessed from the gateway town of
Almora (65 km from Nainital), once also the capital of Kumaon.
No wonder Gandhiji spent some of his most tranquil moments at
the Anashakti Ashram he set up at Kausani. The Sarla Ashram
set up by his devotee Sarlaben sells items made by orphaned
and poor girls schooling here. Pick up the famous Girias tea
from the Kausani Tea Estate and check out poet Sumitranandan
Pant’s Gallery.
Kausani makes a good base for visits to the Jageshwar
Temple and the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. Heading back to
Almora stop by at the 9th-12th century Baijnath temple complex,
and then, 20 km further, Bageshwar, famed for its temple and
Makar Sankranti Mela.
Getting there: The nearest airport is Pant Nagar and the nearest
railhead is at Kathgodam.
Acommodation Assistance: Tourist offices KMVN, Central
Reservation Office, c/o Parvat Tours, Tallital, Nainital. Tel: 05942
231436, fax: 236374

52 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012 FEBRUARY 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA 53


HILL STATIONS
AULI: The summer resort of Auli, 16 km from Joshimath in the
Garhwal hills, comes into its own in the dead of winter. The pristine
snowfields are a magnet for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts
from home and abroad. In February-March, it hosts the much-
awaited Winter Games.
Getting there: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant and the nearest
railhead is the Haridwar Junction.
Acommodation Assistance: Tourist Office, GMVN, Joshimath,
Tel: 01389 222226
LANSDOWNE: India’s famous battalion of the Indian Army,
the Garhwal Rifles is based in the picturesque environs of serene
Lansdowne, set amidst the folds of the Garhwal Himalayas, cheek
by jowl with pretty Pauri. Soaked in Raj memorabilia to be found
amongst its cemeteries, St Mary’s and St John’s churches and
army mess, it’s a far cry from its more colourful colonial cousins
Mussoorie, Shimla and Nainital. Lansdowne offers walking trails,
picnics and snow views at Tiffin Top, birdwatching and somnolent
evenings by a fireside. The museum and views from the ivy-cov-
ered Garhwal Rifles officers mess is worth a dekko.
A temple tour of nearby Tarakeshwar Mahadev, a Siddhipeeth, is
54 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012
recommended. Treks around Pauri, 80 km away, are popular with
adventurists. Khirsu, 19 km from Pauri township, is one of the most
unexplored destinations of Garhwal, and offers the widest view of
the Himalaya peaks.
Getting there: The nearest airport is at Jolly Grant and the railway
station is at Kotdwar. Taxis and bus connections are available.
Acommodation: Tourist Rest House, Landsdown,
Tel: 0138 6262509
NAINITAL & KUMAON’S ‘LAKE DISTRICT’:
Uttarakhand’s Lake District in the Kumaon Himalaya revels in its
delicious holiday offerings for all age groups around its beautiful
mountain lakes. Sprawled around the famous Naini Lake cocooned
between the Ayarpatta Ridge and Sher Ka Danda is imbued with
the legend of Goddess Parvati, whose dismembered eye is said to
have fallen at hallowed spot. The Naina Devi Temple is one of
India’s 64 Shaktipeeths.
Nainital continues its run as a highly-favoured summer retreat.
Boating on the lake, snacking and shopping on the Flats and the
Mall, and trekking to several of the town’s vantage points for views
of the hilltown and distant snowpeaks are must-do’s. Kids will love
JITENDRA SINGH
A SIGHT TOO MANY: (Clockwise from facing page) A cable car
ride offers awe-inspiring views of the snow-covered mountains in
Auli; the beautiful slopes of New Tehri; a calming sight of the Raj
Bhavan in Nainital; the lush Golf Course in Ranikhet
trips to the Zoo and the unique Eco Cave Gardens with its musical
fountain. Treks to China Peak and other places in the inner folds of
the hills are for the more intrepid visitors.
Yoga and meditation classes are on offer at Aurobindo Ashram
on Ayarpatta Hill. A game of golf can be enjoyed at The Governors
House, but Gurney House the old residence of hunter-turned con-
servator Jim Corbett is now privately-owned. Kilbury is popular for
drives offers stunning views of the snowline. The forest around
Pangot, 15 km away, is a popular site for birding and camping.
Sattal, a short haul away, offers seven inter-locked waterbodies
filled with darting carp. It’s a huge favourite for adventure camps
with boating, swimming, hiking, rappelling, rock climbing, bonfire
sing-songs, and community visits on the cards.
Head out for lovely Nauckuchiatal by way of Bhimtal. Placid
waterbodies, angling, birdwatching and boating are alluring pas-
times, along with nice homestays by the lakes on offer. Do take
Sattal is a favourite
destination for adventure seekers,
and those looking for boating,
hiking, rappelling and rock climbing
time out for lovely, pristine Mukteshwar, (50 km from Nainital),
with its fabulous snow views and quiet walks.
Getting there: The nearest airport is at Pant Nagar and the rail-
head is Kathgodam.
Acommodation Assistance: Tourist offices, KMVN, Central
Reservation Office, c/o Parvat Tours, Tallital, Nainital. Tel: 05942
231436, fax: 236374
RANIKHET: A pretty cantonment town, Ranikhet is best loved
for its pristine enviorns, gorgeous snow views of the fabulous
Nanda Devi Range and beautiful walks in and around the town. The
town, just 50 km away from Nainital, is the headquarters of the
prestigious Kumaon Regiment of the Indian Army. Golf, trekking,
leisurely picnics and visits to Chaubatia with its orchards and ver-
dant Sithlakhet are must-do’s. Angling can be enjoyed at Khairna.
The Jim Corbett National Park is a short distance away.
Getting there: The nearest airport is at Pant Nagar and the rail-
head is Kathgodam.
Acommodation Assistance: Tourist Office, KMVN
Central Reservation Office, c/o Parvat Tours, Tallital, Nainital.
Tel: 05942 231436
FEBRUARY 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA 55

WILDLIFE & NATURE
BIO-DIVERSITY RULES
Of the state’s total geographic area, 64
per cent is covered by forest, and the
Greater Himalayan ranges harbour a large
variety of animals, plants and rare herbs
NANDA DEVI NATIONAL PARK: One of India’s
most important biosphere reserves, the Nanda Devi National
Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site, 1988) was declared the
Nanda Devi National Biosphere Reserve in 1986. In the year
2000, the Biosphere Reserve was extended to 586,069 ha which
included both National Park core zone and the Valley of Flowers
core zone. Best time: Summer.
Getting there: Haridwar is the nearest railhead. From Joshimath,
go up to Lata (25 km), and then a 51-km trek to the park.
Accommodation: Contact the Deputy Conservator of Forests,
Nanda Devi National Park, Joshimath, Dist. Chamoli.
Tel: 01389 222179
JIM CORBETT NATIONAL PARK: One of the
world’s finest game parks, it celebrates the efforts of hunter-
56 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012
RAJEEV SACHDEVA
turned-wildlife conservator Jim Corbett to establish a protected
area for highly endangered creatures. It is the first game park to
be declared a Tiger Reserve in 1973, under the worldwide Project
Tiger. Spread over 1,318 sq km, the park comprises the Corbett
National Park, Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary and Reserve Forest of
Nainital and Pauri Garhwal-Patlidun area in the Himalayan
foothills. Best time to visit: November 15 to June 15.
Getting there: The nearest railhead is at Ramnagar
Accommodation: Corbett Reception Centre at Ramnagar.
Tel: 05947 251489
RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK: It spreads over 820 sq km
and is bounded by the districts of Haridwar, Dehradun and Pauri
Garhwal. The park comprises three sanctuaries — Rajaji, Motichur
and Chilla. In 1983, this collective whole was named the Rajaji
National Park, and now houses around 23 mammals and 324
species of birds. Best time: November 15 to June 15.
Getting there: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant, and the nearest
railheads are Dehradun and Haridwar.
Accommodation: Contact the Director, Rajaji National Park, 5/1
Ansari Marg, Dehradun. Tel: 0135 2621669
NATURE REIGNS: (Left to right from facing page) The lush and
blossoming Valley of Flowers; tiger cubs in the Corbett National Park;
Zero Point in Binsar
VALLEY OF FLOWERS NATIONAL PARK:
Come monsoon, the high-altitude Bhyunder Valley made famous
as the ‘Valley of Flowers’ by Raj-era author Frank Symthe is
ablaze with over 600 species of wild flowers in an area of less
than 2,500 hectares. Best time: May to October.
Getting there: Jolly Grant is the nearest airport, Dehradun and
Haridwar are the nearest railheads. Take the road from
Joshimath to Govindghat, then trek to Ghangaria (13 km). From
here, it’s a four-kilometre trek to the valley.
Accommodation: Contact the Deputy Conservator of Forests,
Nanda Devi National Park.
BINSAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY: Declared an
‘Important Bird Area’ by BirdLife International, a global alliance
of conservation organisations working for the world’s birds and
their habitats, the sanctuary is home to more than 200 bird
species, including Forktail, Blackbirds, Laughing Thrush, Kalij
Pheasant, Nuthatches, Parakeets and Monal. The forests are also
home to leopards, deer and bears. Best time: All-year-round.
Getting there: The nearest railhead is Kathgodam. By road,
Binsar is about 35 km from Almora.
The Corbett National Park
celebrates the efforts of Jim Corbett
to establish a protected area
for endangered creatures
Accommodation: Contact the Wildlife Warden, Binsar WLS, Range
Office, Ayarpani. Tel: 05962 251179
GOBIND NATIONAL PARK: Spread over 953 sq km,
the area was designated a wildlife sanctuary to protect rare
species. Apart from the 15 species of mammals, over 150 avifau-
nal species have been recorded in its confines. Best time: May-
June and September to November.
Getting there: Jolly Grant Airport is the nearest airport.
Dehradun is the nearest railhead. By road, you can reach here via
Mussoorie-Purola-Saur or via Rishikesh-Uttarkashi.
Accommodation: Contact the Dy Director, Gobind Pashu Vihar
National Park & Wildlife Sanctuary, Purola, Uttarkashi. Tel: 01375
223433, mob: 9450311293.
The Askot Wildlife Sanctuary (600 sq km) in Pithoragarh dis-
trict, and the Kedarnath Musk Deer Wildlife Sanctuary in Chamoli
district have been set up to save the endangered Himalayan Musk
deer. The Gangotri Wildlife Sanctuary provides a vital link in the
green corridor that extends between the Gobind National Park and
Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary. Mussoorie’s Binog Wildlife Sanctuary
was established for the conservation of the area’s dwindling avifau-
nal species. The Asan Conservation Reserve at the confluence of
rivers Yamuna and Asan near Dhalipur village in the Doon valley.
The Jhilmil Tal Conservation Reserve in Haridwar Forest Division is
the habitat for the endangered swamp deer.
FEBRUARY 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA 57
 ADVENTURE TOURISM
GET AN ADRENALINE RUSH
The rugged terrain, impenetrable
forests, challenging rivers and snow-
covered mountains offer endless
opportunities for adventure sports
SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING: Auli, one of India’s
top skiing resorts, attracts visitors from home and abroad. The
venue of the Winter Games, the resort is one of the most inexpen-
sive places in the world to learn this exhilarating sport from profes-
sionals. This picturesque alpine meadow (bugyal) located at a height
of 2,915-3,049 m in Chamoli district, and in plain sight of the Nanda
Devi range, is marked by state-of-the-art amenities to attract profes-
sional skiers and budding novices alike. It has Asia’s longest cable
car, about four kilometres long, four pristine ski slopes, a chair lift
and a ski lift. Gorson Top nearby makes a nice change for skiing.
Apart from skiing, there is an interesting trek route also. The Indo-
Tibetan Border Police has been trained on these slopes. Garhwal
Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (GMVNL), involved closely in the inter-
national maintenance of the ski slopes, offers seven-day and 14-day
training packages that include stay, meals, equipment and trainers.
Best time: January to March.
Getting there: The nearest airport is at Jolly Grant and the railway
station is at Haridwar. Take a cable car from Joshimath to Auli.
Accommodation Assistance: Log on to www.gmvnl.com for details.
RAFTING: The gorgeous rivers Bhagirathi, Mandakini, Ganga,
Yamuna, Kali Ganga (Sharda), Alaknanda, Tons and Mahakali,
descending from icy beds of the Himalaya in both Garhwal and
Kumaon districts, offer a diverting range of adventure experiences
to both rafting professionals and novices. Oftimes, the rafting camps
set along the riverside at Mori (Tons), Rishikesh on the banks of
river Ganga, Shivpuri 30 km away, Marine Drive, a short distance
uphill from Rishikesh, and Kaudiyala (36 km upstream from
Rishikesh), offer a range of other activities that intersperse trips on
the river. These include treks, birdwatching, community visits, rock
climbing, rappelling, kayaking, body surfing, angling, etc. Shivpuri
and Kaudiyala near Rishikesh are the major hubs for rafter camp-
sites by the Ganga, and rafting experiences cover anything from the
six categories of rapids laid out by the international grading for
white water, from Class I (the easiest and safest) to Class VI (the
most difficult and dangerous) — reflecting both the technical difficul-
58 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012
ty and the danger associated with a rapid. GMVNL also offers
instructions by professionals.
TREKKING: The Garhwal and Kumaon regions offers trekkers
a stunning array of trails for all levels of fitness. The hill stations are
famed for their hiking trails. In the Garhwal hills, the Mussoorie’s Pari
Tibba hike is as beloved as the three popular treks — Mussoorie-Nag
Tibba, Mussoorie-Bhadraj and Mussoorie-Dhanaulti. Har ki Dun is
another moderate trek with Mussoorie as a base. Kalsi by the
Yamuna is a good trek out of Dehradun in the Doon valley.
Rishikesh and Haridwar are good hubs where one can combine
treks and rafting at the rafting camps scattered along the Ganga,
Alaknanada and Bhagarthi rivers. Garhwal’s famous trekking routes
include the lovely Valley of Flowers trail, the Gangotri-Tapovan route,
Roop Kund trek, Dodital-Bamsaru Khal Pass trek, Kuari Pass trek,
Gangotri-Kedartal trek, Gangotri-Yamunotri trek, and many more. In
the Kumaon hills, you can head out on the stiff trek trails from
AMITABHA GUPTA
Munsiyari to the Milam Glacier, Nimak Glacier and Nanda Devi
National Park trail, Pindari glacier trek is accessed from Almora, and
the Adi Kailash Trek — out of Kausani.
Some of the other popular adventure experiences in Uttarakhand
are mountaineering (Banderpunch, Bhagirathi, Bhanoti, Changabang,
Chaukhamba, Gangotri, Kamet, Kedar Dome, Kedarnath, Meru,
Nanda Devi East, Nanda Ghunti, Nanda Kot, Satopanth, and many
more), jungle safaris in the major wildlife parks and reserve forests,
and bird watching (at Rajaji National Park, Corbett National Park,
Binsar WLS and the wetland reserve of the Asan barrage near
Dehradun in particular), apart from the forested glades of the hill
stations. Angling for mahseer at Corbett and Pancheshwar attracts
visitors from abroad regularly. Cycling around the beautiful environs
of both Garhwal and Kumaon is fast gaining popularity. The Aranyam
River Retreat, Mohanchatti, on the banks of River Hyule, a tributary
of the Ganga, is one of the biggest adventure campsites in the coun-
try offering a wide spectrum of adventure experiences from balloon-
ing, cliff-jumping, river rafting to wildlife safaris.
Contact: GMVNL, 74/1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun. Tel: 0135 2740896,
2746817. www.gmvnl.com.
KMVN Central Reservation Office, c/o Parvat Tours, Tallital, Nainital.
Tel: 05942 231436. www.kmvn.org or www.gmvnl.com
Angling for mahseer at Corbett and
Pancheshwar regularly. attracts visitors from
THRILLING TIMES: (Clockwise from top, facing page) Trekkers
abroad. Cycling in the environs of Garhwal
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
halt in Kafni valley on the way to the Pindari glacier; an angler catch-
es a mahseer in Corbett’s Ramganga river; rafters in the Ganga
and Kumaon is also fast gaining popularity

RELIGIOUS SPOTS
WHERE THE GODS SMILE
Uttarakhand, known as Devbhumi, is the
abode of the Char Dhams, the Hemkund
Sahib, the holy town of Haridwar, and
many other important pilgrimages
CHAR DHAM: Nestled in the remote outposts of the snowy
reaches of the Garhwal Himalayas lie the Yamunotri, Gangotri,
Kedarnath and Badrinath shrines. By tradition, the yatra begins
from Yamunotri in the west heading eastward via Gangotri and
Kedarnath and terminating at Badrinath. The Yamunotri shrine is
located by the holy Yamuna river emanating from the Yamunotri
glacier. The Gangotri shrine is a popular site for performing the
Hindu rites of shradh and pind daan. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the
Kedarnath shrine is propitiated by the holy waters of the Yamuna
and Ganga by pilgrims. The 8th century Badrinath shrine was
established by sage Adi Shankaracharya.
Best time: May to November
HARIDWAR & RISHIKESH: The twin towns of
Haridwar and Rishikesh lie by the banks of the holy Ganga. The
60 DISCOVER INDIA - FEBRUARY 2012
cavalcade of temples and ashrams here are silent witness to the
power of prayer, meditation and Yoga. Centuries-deep rituals are
also performed by the Ganga — the most riveting of which
remains the evening aarti at Har ki Paudi in Haridwar. Popular
hubs here are the Patanjali Yogpeeth Ashram and the Divya Yog
Mandir Trust associated with Swami Ramdev. In Rishikesh, the
Yoga capital of the world, the ritualistic Ganga snana at Triveni
Ghat is very moving. Primary sites include Geeta Bhawan shrine
and Parmarth Niketan Temple.
Best time: All year round. Contact GMVNL, Yatra office, Muni-ki-Reti,
Rishikesh. Tel: 0135 2431793, yatra@gmvnl.com
NANDA RAJ JAT YATRA: The hillfolk of Kumaon and
Garhwal participate joyously in the famous but hazardous Nanda Raj
Jat Yatra held every 12 years (last held in 2000) to propitiate their
venerable deity the goddess Nanda Devi. The next yatra is sched-
uled for 2013. The goddess is invited to visit Nauti village, her
parental home, from her husband’s earthly home in the Himalaya,
the Nanda Devi mountain. She leaves after a sojourn of six months.
Contact: GMVNL Yatra Office Muni ki Reti, Rishikesh.
HEMKUND SAHIB & GURUDWARA SRI
NANAK MATTA SAHIB: The remote Himalayan Sikh pil-
grimage hub of Hemkund lies close to the gorgeous Valley of
Flowers. The six-hour trek from Ghangaria follows a dangerous
trail. Legend has it the tenth Sikh guru Govind Singh meditated
here in one of his earlier births. It was discovered by a Sikh
Havaldar, Solan Singh, and has been a pilgrimage hub since 1930.
The Lakshman Temple can be found by the lake here. Gurdwara Sri
Nanak Matta Sahib (along the Khatima-Panipat National Highway
between Khatima and Sitarganj in Uttarakhand’s Udham Singh dis-
trict) goes back to 1514, and is richly associated with Guru Nanak.
It was also visited by Guru Hargobind Singh. The Nanak Sagar
Dam reservoir, 22 km away, is a popular picnic and boating site.
JAGESHWAR, BAGESHWAR, BAIJNATH,
CHITAI, PURNAGIRI TEMPLES: Set in the folds of
the Kumaon foothills lie one of the 12 Jyotirlingas — the
Jageshwar Temple complex is home to 164 shrines. The
Bageshwar Temple complex at the confluence of the Gomti and
Saryu rivers at Bageshwar is 90 km from Almora. Makar Sankranti
is celebrated with deep devotion at this Shiva shrine. The cen-
turies-old Baijnath Temple complex is 20 km from Kausani hill sta-
tion. The atmospheric Gollu Devta Temple, eight kilometres from
Almora at Chitai, is quite unique. About 20 km from Tanakapur, the
Purnagiri Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Sati/Parvati. Legend
Legend has it that the
Purnagiri temple is the spot where
the navel of the dismembered
Goddess Sati fell
JITENDRA SINGH
THE PRAYER ROOMS: (Clockwise from facing page) Kedarnath is
one of the Char Dhams; the Nanda Raj Jat Yatra is undertaken in
honour of Nanda Devi; the Baijnath temple; the Nanak Matta Sahib
has it that this is the spot where the naval of the dismembered
goddess fell. The Purnagiri Mela (March 15-April 15) during the
Chaitra Navratras is one of Kumaon’s biggest fairs.
ADI KAILASH YATRA: For those who can’t go the full
course of the hazardous route of the Kailash Mansarovar Yatra,
there is another equally revered option — the Adi Kailash Yatra.
Mt Adi Kailash or Chhota Kailash lies on the Indian side the Indo-
Tibet border, and can be approached from the traditional
Mansarovar route up to Gunji. From here, you turn towards
Jollingkong, from where Adi Kailash and Parvati Sarovar are a
short distance away.
Contact: www.kmyatra.org/adi-kailash.html
Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board
Pt Deen Dayal Upadhaya Paryatan Bhawan, Near ONGC Helipad,
Garhi Cantt, Dehradun 248001.
Tel: 0135 2559898; Fax: 0135 2559988; dd-tourism-ua@nic.in.
For online reservations, log on to www.kmvn.org or
www.gmvnl.com
All text contributed by Ranee Sahaney
FEBRUARY 2012 - DISCOVER INDIA 61